I bet you didn't know this about footwork for climbing!

Спорт

Most climbers are unaware of the application of pressure through their feet. We know this as we have worked with thousands of climbers over the years in person and remotely.
Your heel position has a huge knock-on effect to the rest of your body. Yes, we have ankle flexion that can combat some of it (i.e. standing on slabs), but most of the time, climbers drop their heels, which pushes their knees and bum away from the wall, putting more weight onto their hands and forearms.
On a positive foothold, you need to push more through the big toe. Shoes are typically designed to aid this, meaning if you lift the heel a little, you will get more pressure through your toe which will lead to more confidence and trust.
As well as this, it will help you activate and engage your core, meaning any drive from your feet will have a positive effect, rather than pushing your bum out from the wall.
Ever found yourself flying miles from the wall when trying a dyno? You probably had low heels and your feet were too front on.
On the flip side, if you're faced with a sloper or smear, then dropping the heel is important to maximize surface area.
Learning to play around d on both types of holds is crucial to furthering your understanding and advancing your movement awareness.
Have fun trying!
If you've not watched our video on precise and accurate footwork, please click here: • Footwork for Climbing
Big thanks to @GalenPeterson for the filming and editing and for ‪@movementgyms‬ for allowing us to film in their Baker District gym in Denver.
If you are interested in training with Robin O'Leary & Alex Puccio (ROAP), please check out www.roapcoaching.com/personal... for more info.

Пікірлер: 126

  • @kshushechka
    @kshushechka5 ай бұрын

    These are the best climbing technique videos I have ever seen. Huge thank you for making them!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    5 ай бұрын

    Thank you so much More coming your way soon!!

  • @stephenallen9532
    @stephenallen9532 Жыл бұрын

    I really appreciate how you break down the mechanisms behind good footwork here. Super interesting. Have you considered doing a video on the mechanisms of toe and heel hooking?

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks Stephen - yep, both filmed and on the way. Foot matching is next, then heel hooking, then toe hooking after that one :)

  • @christianvollenhoven
    @christianvollenhoven Жыл бұрын

    As an alternative, as a trad climber it can be equally important to try and keep your calves fresh, so constantly keeping your heels high isn't ideal. Learning to move with less heel engagement is really important

  • @christianvollenhoven

    @christianvollenhoven

    Жыл бұрын

    Of course, calf pump isn't a consideration for bouldering and sport climbing

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Absolutely. I think we touched on crack climbing and multi-pitch climbers not specifically focusing on this as much, that said for cruxes or shorter, more intense trad it still applies.

  • @Captain-Jack-Climbing
    @Captain-Jack-Climbing Жыл бұрын

    Oh yeah baby!!! Another must watch episode.❤

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    YAAAAS! Thank you Changyue!!

  • @TheT3nchi
    @TheT3nchi Жыл бұрын

    Awesome, I've been looking for a video about applications of pressure when I'm climbing. You did a fantastic job of explaining the concept! Keep up the great work man. Looking forward to other videos.

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Excellent, glad you liked it and thank you for your kind words. Yep, excited to release more :)

  • @Stanginsean281
    @Stanginsean281 Жыл бұрын

    Been climbing for a handful of years~v7 indoor climber and I’m still learning a ton in your videos! Awesome work educating everyone of all levels. You’re explaining why I do things that I didn’t quite understand the reason I was doing it. Nice videos!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Great to hear and thank you for the kind words. Looking forward to helping you further your climbing and increasing that grade!

  • @ranknarlmarg
    @ranknarlmarg Жыл бұрын

    This is the best footwork video I've seen to date - great teaching! Thank you!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Wow, thank you for the kind words. Stay tuned for more.

  • @elmirganibegovic1287
    @elmirganibegovic1287 Жыл бұрын

    So helpful. Awesome explanation of a seemingly simple concept but genuinely never talked about in this way. That step analogy was SO useful. Thank you!!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you Elmir! Yeah, it's hard to actually try to disengage your core as we are so in tune with keeping it active in our daily lives. But this is the kinetic knock-on effect of dropping your heels on positive holds. I hope it helps with your training/climbing.

  • @tuzeituzei
    @tuzeituzei4 ай бұрын

    This is super helpful for beginner like me who doesn't have a coach or climbing peers to learn from, and usually don't know what to do when get on the wall 😭 Can't wait to get back to the gym and do the practice that I learnt from this video!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    4 ай бұрын

    Glad it was helpful and let us know how you get on. You'd be Surprised how many climbers who climb 5.13 and V10 (and above) who don't know how to activate their heels well. It's something that, if you fix now, will be huge in your climbing! Good luck and thanks for watching!

  • @Harry-mr3mn
    @Harry-mr3mn Жыл бұрын

    this video is excellent, much better and helpful than many other training videos

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks, glad you found it better! 😃

  • @slapthesloper
    @slapthesloper Жыл бұрын

    Love the more analytical approach to these videos compared to the many other footwork videos on here. Applying these tips however becomes much more complex on steeper terrain because driving the knee forward and hips up changes your body position on hand holds especially if they aren’t incut. Another video addressing how to not just push yourself up and out with your feet but instead create tension between hands and feet would be great

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Absolutely! It’s n the agenda very soon. A few more footwork vids to get through and then we get to play with body movement which is when it gets really fun.

  • @jamjam98765
    @jamjam987652 ай бұрын

    Fantastic instructional video! I am learning so much from your videos. Thank you!!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    2 ай бұрын

    Thank you so much, glad you’re finding it helpful! We appreciate your support

  • @chrish7779
    @chrish7779 Жыл бұрын

    Really enjoyed it and a good reminder of one of my biggest faults. Looking forward to the next vid.

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks Chris!! Looking forward to showing you the next few too.

  • @JoMoClimber
    @JoMoClimber4 ай бұрын

    This is excellent and very helpful. Thank you!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    4 ай бұрын

    Thank you for the kind words, for watching and your support! We appreciate it

  • @marks3440
    @marks3440 Жыл бұрын

    Love how the step off illustrates the footwork mechanic and the importance of adding in exercises like glute thrust and RDL to a routine. Also wanted to add I’ve been doing my RDLs with a ‘landmine’ set-up which allows you to press up on the balls of your feet to complete the rep. Really enjoyed this video!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Great exercise!!!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Great set-up and exercise!!!

  • @ezequielmaquieira1234
    @ezequielmaquieira1234 Жыл бұрын

    Great video! Please keep on with footwork!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks @Ezequiel, we will for a few more vids for sure!

  • @0RANGOTANG
    @0RANGOTANG Жыл бұрын

    Great video, glad your channel was recommended

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Ahhh, great news. Thank you. Many more vids to come

  • @user-jb7db2lt1m
    @user-jb7db2lt1m Жыл бұрын

    Please keep doing man. I promise i will keep watching your videos. very clearly describe and shows . I am a beginner climber , and you give the knowlage that i will be use tommorow. Thanx

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you, and we will. Hopefully try to stick to at least 1 video each week. Stay tuned for more Alex too :)

  • @bassmeets9852
    @bassmeets9852 Жыл бұрын

    Super clear and to the point great video

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you, much appreciated. Many more videos coming your way!

  • @smurf9857
    @smurf9857 Жыл бұрын

    Another excellent video. Really enjoying the series

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you so much! We are excited to grow, learn and produce more content. :)

  • @AamirTime
    @AamirTime Жыл бұрын

    So informative and explained in a great way. Will be trying the footwork this week. Thank you.

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you Aamir, hope you will find it helpful.

  • @user-oc8tc1lz8h
    @user-oc8tc1lz8h Жыл бұрын

    very nice breakdown. thanks!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you!

  • @hollywaller1265
    @hollywaller1265 Жыл бұрын

    Very nice explanation, much better than the videos that just say "drop your heals you'll stick better". I love that you talked about the position of the ankle changing where your centre of mass is, so many people miss that! One slight change I'd make to the explanation (coming from a physics background) is that the surface area has nothing to do with friction, to get the maximum friction the force you apply to the hold needs to be at 90 degrees to the surface. So for the small positive holds which have a horizontal lip, your foot is above them as you described so that the force is at 90 degrees to the hold, for the slopers you drop your heal, which brings the hips out and the force is again applied at 90 degrees to the surface. The actual surface area in contact doesn't matter, just the direction of force. (this is still the best video I've seen out there and is incredibly useful) =)

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Hey Holly, you’re absolutely right. It is all about the force going through it the area. When explaining this principle to less experienced climbers, we’ve found teaching them about maximizing surface area initially is easier for comprehension and then discuss forces and the application of pressure subsequently, but you are absolutely right.

  • @hollywaller1265

    @hollywaller1265

    Жыл бұрын

    @@roapcoaching917 That makes perfect sense! Good to hear the reasoning behind it, there's so much going on when you're learning that I presume (for most people) a physics lecture isn't what they're looking for

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    True, but we do love that element - perhaps we can do a video in the future talking physics!!

  • @tpa3437

    @tpa3437

    10 ай бұрын

    I was curious about this statement as it contradicts all the common climbing knowledge basicaly lol. But doing some research seems like surface area does in fact matter for rubber. Lots of infos I found talked about tires and race cars but the conclusion is that the high school/college formula and experiment with flat volumes sliding on top of each other with a mass attached does not apply to the situation of car tire or climbing shoes.

  • @hollywaller1265

    @hollywaller1265

    10 ай бұрын

    @@tpa3437 I agree that high school physics is no where near enough for this, the physics of racing tires is particularly interesting! So many variables! I gues the main problem with rubber is that it's so bendy, so you get more than 1 type of friction. Its a wonderful subject 😃

  • @erichuifitness
    @erichuifitness Жыл бұрын

    Can’t wait for some climbing drill videos. Learned a lot here

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Yes! We can’t wait either. Coming very soon

  • @Damien2745
    @Damien2745 Жыл бұрын

    Great video!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you Damien. Stay tuned for more!

  • @Vulkyirom
    @VulkyiromАй бұрын

    enlightening, good explanations and examples, thanks!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Ай бұрын

    Excellent news, we appreciate your feedback! Thanks for your support

  • @badgolim
    @badgolim11 ай бұрын

    Thanks for sharing your knowledge, never saw the explanation for different footholds 🎉

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    11 ай бұрын

    Awesome, glad it was helpful, thanks for watching and the comment!

  • @dannythwaites1318
    @dannythwaites1318 Жыл бұрын

    Great video keep it up. This may just help me get my first V7 where my feet have been slipping on a poor foothold

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Well, we certainly hope so! Report back if it does and let us know what other areas you want us to focus on!

  • @islamistai
    @islamistai Жыл бұрын

    Keep Up The Good Work

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks, will do!

  • @constanceelaine3909
    @constanceelaine3909 Жыл бұрын

    Excellent and very helpful technique explanations!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you!

  • @hb51015
    @hb5101511 ай бұрын

    Excellent info and teaching! Thank you 🙏 liked and subscribed ✅

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    11 ай бұрын

    Brilliant, glad you like it. Thanks for the like, comment and subscription

  • @frankiedonofrio5438
    @frankiedonofrio5438 Жыл бұрын

    Great No Nonsense Video!!.........Subbed

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you Frankie!!

  • @enesberkekara3263
    @enesberkekara3263 Жыл бұрын

    Best ever🔥

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you!

  • @evmarekaj
    @evmarekaj Жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the tips I've only recently started getting the hang of sloppers so this will help. Also if you read this if you can give tips on how to do foot holds when climbing with your back facing the ground that would be appreciated. I am slowly figuring it out myself but it takes a lot of trial and error.

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    I.e. roof climbing? An episode is coming on this :)

  • @chuckz28
    @chuckz28 Жыл бұрын

    Wow this might be a game changer for me. Explains a lot of my issues

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    We hope do Chuck!! Let us know

  • @kayakacmaz7038
    @kayakacmaz7038 Жыл бұрын

    waiting on next one📍

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks, next one is on the foot match :)

  • @PRO-ro7re
    @PRO-ro7re Жыл бұрын

    perfection 🔥🔥🔥🔥

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks

  • @Aprokt
    @Aprokt Жыл бұрын

    nice!💝

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks!!

  • @androidyusufylmaz2465
    @androidyusufylmaz2465 Жыл бұрын

    Nice video product❤️💙❤️💙❤️

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you!

  • @hiiten1
    @hiiten1 Жыл бұрын

    Awesome video! So when placing a foot on a small positive hold, do you typically want to place it with the heel already up, or would you place it with the heel around parallel, pushing into the toe and lifting the heel once you’re ready to stand up to the next hold?

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Great question. Place with heel low to roll onto the toe and then apply pressure accordingly. The biggest recommendation is to play around with it. You don’t want to just focus on lifting the heel, but applying the suitable pressure. If you’re really drilling down you’ll need a higher heel, but a positive hold needing less pressure will warrant a slightly lower heel.

  • @sketchag7048
    @sketchag7048 Жыл бұрын

    This has always made sense as when youre using a smeared foot it really only works when your hips are really far from the wall, but how do you engage a dropped heel when the hand is very slopey or going for a dynamic move where getting you body closer to the wall will make you feet slip?

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Great question. The smear is a great example and as a supporting or driving leg it can create a lot of energy which has to be harnessed by technique throughout the rest of the body - be it the other ankle/foot, knees, hips etc. with slopers you will obviously have to be below it for maximum efficiency and bringing your hips out will worsen optimal directional force. At times like this, our ankle flexion is incredibly important in helping us keep hips closer to the wall.

  • @joolsgrommers1466
    @joolsgrommers1466 Жыл бұрын

    The driving up of the heel for the more positive footholds feels very much like something I've been missing. Trying it now and feel like I've had a bit of an epiphanette. Any drills that you'd recommend to make this more intuitive? I've been trying ti add this awareness to my warm ups, but its easy to loose sight of. Thanks!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Yes, practicing this in your warm-up routine on easier ground is crucial. Essentially, on larger holds and vertical walls, where you can really focus on perfect movement. Start low, place the heel, then try to keep the hanf=d low to help you pivot over the pivot point (heel). Obviously drilling one legged squats (TRX assistance) helps too.

  • @Ingeborgk91
    @Ingeborgk91 Жыл бұрын

    Drink every time he say "on the flip side"

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Haha - I think you'll have fun on the next video too. One team drinks on OK and the other on SO!

  • @giovannisarti5564
    @giovannisarti5564 Жыл бұрын

    Low heels are for long slabs, high heels are for steep terrain

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Depending on the actual foothold, but in a nutshell

  • @zumbet6476
    @zumbet64762 ай бұрын

    Ojooo supernicee

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    2 ай бұрын

    Appreciate it, thanks for watching!

  • @nilsp9426
    @nilsp9426 Жыл бұрын

    0:11 the automatically generated subtitles went mad there

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Oh really? Funny, annoying?

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Just saw it!!! NOT a good auto subtitle!!! Sorry

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Adjusted - thank you for highlighting this!

  • @kylezwarich
    @kylezwarich Жыл бұрын

    Hey! How does this work for little knuckle holds (you know, the little nubs that maybe don't have the +'ve lip, still extruded, but not exactly a -'ve sloper hold)

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Like a chicken head?

  • @shyamvasanjee3877
    @shyamvasanjee3877 Жыл бұрын

    Does curling toes with raised heels ( non-slopey foot holds) and spreading toes with dropped heels (slopey foot holds) add more pressure on feet when climbing?

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Good question. If you can do this, your shoes are probably too big

  • @skyltdockan
    @skyltdockan2 ай бұрын

    Does it also help to twist the heel into the wall? This brings the leg closer...

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    2 ай бұрын

    Absolutely, depending on the move. Ankle articulation really helps bring the hips closer to the wall. Obviously if you’re in a position that requires you to be front on, then it’s less effective. But with drop knees, absolutely!!

  • @Cardsandstoagies
    @Cardsandstoagies11 ай бұрын

    With really small edges, the smedging technique, which contradicts everything you said, even if the holds are positive, you want to drop your heel to have the positive edge of the hold catch on the sole of the shoe, not the edge. This footwork technique brought me from 5.11+ to 5.13.

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    11 ай бұрын

    A smeary edge? If there is an edge, even if it is 5mm, you'll need stiff shoes and a positive angle. If it is a smear, you drop your heel.

  • @hasanbasripektas945
    @hasanbasripektas945 Жыл бұрын

    You are literally god 😍

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Haha, I'll tell him!

  • @jerrykuo8736
    @jerrykuo8736 Жыл бұрын

    My man you need a new mic. But otherwise a great video!

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Hi Jerry, yes, the first 4 videos were filmed with Rode, but we switched to DJI mics following which have been far better. The feedback is appreciated though.

  • @maxfinn3085
    @maxfinn3085 Жыл бұрын

    not sure i love the mic you're using here. sounds a bit blown out.

  • @khakicam5400

    @khakicam5400

    Жыл бұрын

    He's 3 videos in, give the guy a break.

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks, changed to DJI mics! We thought the same

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Haha, we like constructive feedback though

  • @hsonp_h
    @hsonp_h Жыл бұрын

    Friction is independent of surface area. The amount of rubber you’re using on your shoe is irrelevant.

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    True, it is the application of pressure through the contact area, but this is a video to help people understand easily.

  • @pennernderpenner

    @pennernderpenner

    Жыл бұрын

    That is only true as long as the materials are not being abraded.

  • @veglord4481
    @veglord4481 Жыл бұрын

    Man that mic makes you sound like you need to do some cardio :D

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Haha - probably does need to ;) We've changed to DJI mics now

  • @veglord4481

    @veglord4481

    Жыл бұрын

    @@roapcoaching917 Sorry for nitpicking. Clickbaitey titles turn me into a hateful man. Really. Dont we all need some cardio haha. I must say you keep pretty good quality for such a fresh channel. Good luck.

  • @DrSenorFishTacos
    @DrSenorFishTacos Жыл бұрын

    Overall, great video, but it feels a bit verbose at the moment. There aren't logical points for me, as the viewer, to pause and reflect on the content being presented. Might I suggest breaking the video into chapters that include the content you aim to each followed by a single slide that consists of 3-4 bullet points which convey the key takeaways? There is currently a lot to digest and apply from this 11 minute video. I realize y'all are still in the early stages of this channel, so just some food for thought in terms of future editing. Also, I recommend making use of socials such as reddit's /r/climbharder sub to signal boost your videos, and also solicit for future video ideas. Good luck.

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the feedback, we can make them more bitesized for sure!

  • @DrSenorFishTacos

    @DrSenorFishTacos

    Жыл бұрын

    @@roapcoaching917 also, I would urge both Alex and Robin to think about how you plan to differentiate the content on this channel vs the dozens of other climbing channels out there (lattice, hoopers beta, Hannah Morris, etc).

  • @roapcoaching917

    @roapcoaching917

    Жыл бұрын

    Yes - this is absolutely in the pipeline. We obviously want to focus on some basics as there is a demand here and many of the topics that have been covered by other brands have failed to do so with enough accuracy and detail - so some of this won't be new in terms of "topics" but hopefully in terms of content. That said, we have many videos lined up which no-one has covered yet, which is exciting and we will very shortly lean to you, the viewer to share with us what content you want to see as well - feel free to share this with us if you want to.

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