Thanks for the video. I worked in HVAC in the 1980s and I've been off my tools for a while. I am trying to help out our church and they have electric heat. Your video helped me remember the circuitry. I look forward to other videos

@mikie2501

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Frank! I appreciate it!! It's always nice to get a thanks or hear how a video helped, wether just from an educational point of view, or if something got fixed. Understand being off the tools for a while, lol, though not as long as you, hehehe! I've been out of action for quite a few years now do to spinal problems. I'm a few years out now from my last major spinal surgery, already had a good bit of steel in me, but they pretty much have everything bolted, plated, shimmed and screwed down now, lol!! Finally feeling good enough to start working on some more videos, well after buying a new computer for Christmas! My old desktop and laptop were 8+ years old and getting long in the tooth. When the desktop finally started going south, i wringed my hands for six months comparing computers and griping on how expensive everything is, lol! So, new laptop and i have a huge pile of old video footage on all kinds of things that needs editing and uploaded, plus a bunch of new ideas for videos! Just need to get used to Windows 10 after being on 7 for so long, learn some new editing software (ugh!) And make myself do it! If forgot how tedious it is editing footage down, lol!! Have a few new tool videos I have been wanting to make, so might bump those ahead of old stuff, hehe! Hope everything goes well with the church work!! The only helping out I have like that is popping over to an old ham radio friend of mine, i think he's 90 this year, and he gets ants in his contactor every year, it seems, lol! Take care! Anyway, to make a short story long, yeah, I have think hard or crack out my HVAC notes that i was making on things as I worked on different things, to answer some oddball questions sometimes ;)

Really glad u decided to do te second half of video! Learned more about how this system works from those 6 minutes than I have in the past 1.5 hours spent researching! Thanks a bunch!!!

Thank you very much for this video. I watched it a few times and finally decided to change the sequencers. There are two and they are ganged together. I couldn't have fixed it without your help because the schematic on the furnace shows a lot of 240VAC wiring, but they only read 115VAC. Even the voltage coming into the breakers inside the furnace don't read 240VAC. The only place I found it was at the sequencer and at one set of elements. Anyway, the sequencers were the fix and I appreciate it.

Great tutorial w/fundamentals! Helped me understand my HVAC heat pump even more. I hate heat pumps for heat but great for A/C. Thanks

@nathanivan8844

2 жыл бұрын

instablaster.

Liked your video.Strip heat can be a problem to diagnose as you have shown.Keep those videos coming.Wish you would do one on reading a charging chart and showing how to correctly charge a heat pump in the winter.

Hey John, well there is a possibility that the last time they used the heat that the heat sequencer STUCK ON and was running the heating coil constantly. The limit would cut it off and when the limit cooled the element would come back on and the cycle would continue. The melting comes in because when the Blower isn't running for the AC the heating elements are just running wild and putting stress amp loads on the wiring, hense the melting. Always fun finding an AC in summer with heat strip on!

Great job. Thanks for adding the trouble shooting part to the video. It was just what I was looking for.

thank you guys for your videos they are very helpful really appreciate it god bless you all

Best video yet on this subject

Just a clear picture of the wiring helps understanding what is going on. Thank you. Yes, flying saucers not made by humans are real.

Best video I've found on this.

Yes! I don't recall the amp rating on the 90-340 series but I like the small format on those. If nothing else you can stick a contactor in there! My heat here at the hosue uses contactors :>

Very helpful and straight to the point

Thanks that really helped. got it back working now.

Thanks for this great video. Thanks for the explanation, I was able to test all my voltages and discover an open ground on the first heat sequencer coil which didn't allow the first and so the second coil to energize. Broken connector on a ground wire. Thanks again, well explained, perfect detail.

@StrangeRealityVlog

7 жыл бұрын

Greg Williams Costello heating and cooling installed a new furnace. They installed a Goodman mbr1200aa-1 ac, or tried to install. Very disappointed and frustrated. The owner, Gene, gave us a estimate. Then the next day had 2 young guys install the furnace. They did not know what they were doing. The job was supposed to take less than two hours. They worked from 9am to 2pm with the job not completed. After they got "done" wiring the furnace, they flipped the Goodman breaker then flipped the main breaker.... sparked started flying, lit up the house! They wired it wrong and screwed up my new furnace. The owner went to go get a circuit board and came back around 6pm. During that time, the Goodman was left running, blower did not shut off and the furnace heat did not shut off either. So for hours the thermostat was set at 63 degrees Fahrenheit and the temperature in the house kept raising up to 88 degrees. Unbearable and the breaker was too hot to touch to shut it off. The owner arrived around 6pm to fix everything, the circuit board part, then realized he needs another part, a relay. Left to go get the relay, and came back around 8pm. He got the furnace up and running on 1 element. So it didn't blow hot air, and it's 19 degrees outside! He said he would come back tomorrow with a contact and hook up the 2nd element. Very frustrating and scary. I would like a new furnace, one that didn't have sparks flying out of it, which could shorten it's life or damage the furnace. And a new blower, one that wasn't running nonstop for 6 hours, what a break in cycle! Last but not least, when they removed the old furnace, there was a door. Now they took that and are not supplying us with a door. When I asked about a furnace door, he said "put a sheet up". Not only is the unsafe and a fire hazard, but ugly and unprofessional. I need a door so kids don't get hurt or my cat doesn't jump up and get hurt. I paid all that money and you took and used my warranty AND I don't have a cover/door.

This type of heater uses a insane amount of electric. Most places in florida has these since it does not get cold that often but when it does these thing jack the bill up big time

Thanks man, you provide some really good information, I'm a new tech and I pretty much feel confident with everything, the only thing that stumps me are electric heat setups, especially electric heat setups that are heat pump systems, those damn DC relays have really made me feel stupid, if you culd do a video on how to replace them with sequencer, or just how to wire up a sequencer from scratch for a 2 strip or 3 strip system that would be most appreciated bro. Thanks

excellent video

that particular brand is expensive to repair. I have a Coleman 3500 series, and the heat strips are in pairs, so if one of the coils goes bad, its easier to replace the unit. I added 250V indicator lamps to my system to show which element is on and I have 3 lamps wired across each of the high limit switches to show trouble or over heating. adding 250V neon indicator lamps helps in showing what the unit is doing. I really love my furnace! so easy to service!

You are awesome!

Thank you very much mr .jones

Great Video,I wanna see more video about A/C unit.please!

good vid. dam that take a lot of power.

great info on this video doing great

Thanks for this video! I stumbled across it, and it's the same heat kit I have in my old Goodman furnace. I was happy to learn more about how it all works. :-)

Well that isn't what I would consider a homeowner fix, probably a stuck sequence without actually seeing the unit. Just shut it off and call an HVAC company to come work on it, pretty quick fix usually. If your LUCKY and your air handler has 2 breakers on it you might be able to shut one of them off that doesn't control the blower and see if the heat strip was on the one you turned off. Save some cash till the hvac guy can get there. It's a 50/50 shot which breaker it's on though :(

Good videos

Great job. I share your opinion regarding sequencers.

thank you

thks mikie this was helpful

Mikie this is a really good vid. You helped me out in so many different ways. The only problem I am having now is finding out what sequencer is the right one. I had a guy come out last year and he said he changed the voltage regulator. He handed me the old part and from what I remember It doesn't look nothing like the one that's on it now. Well long story short, he died in a motor cycle wreck. So now I have no idea what part to buy. The one on it, is burning the ends off and timing is off. HELP

Thanks very useful .

@brotherb30 ...no the thermal safeties can be replaced individually. Of course as long ad the safety is functional the contact surfaces could just be lightly sanded to clean them up. The tech just has to make sure that the connections are all tight. :)

Thanks a lot and God bless you

Hi Mike, great video. I have more or less the same set up as you showed at my cabin and the unit is in the attic. When we turn it on it runs and heats with out issue for two or three days then it wont kick on but the fan just runs while trying to call for heat. Watching your video it seem like it may be the sequencers, does that sound right or is this another problem? Thanks, hope you are still answering questions

Impressive video Mike, where I live up in Canada we typically don't use electic heat, we have gas fired RTU's or hydronic heat. Maybe the occasional heat pump. But it's good to know how these work.

@jolyonwelsh9834

2 жыл бұрын

You probably don't live in Quebec.

Great video, thanks. I have an old furnace I was looking at and it doesn't have the heat sequencers. Is it possible it's done on the control board? It's a 20kW with two 60A breakers. 4 x 5kW

had string break and layed against rack so it was getting 120 volts all the time but wasnt getting hot enuff to trip limits, baffled me for a second

I would find one these heating boxes like this one out of a furnace or duct heater and disconnect the unwanted elements. Don't know what the proper temp is for powder coating but I would make sure their is a thermostat to control temp. BTW I hear a old electric oven works well for powder coating has everything already set up. Just limited on size, fine for small engine parts. Unless you can pick up a commercial one.

I sure appreciate it sir. My thermal safeties seem fine however they have got some black burn marks on them. Can those be replaced themselves or does the whole strip usually have to be replaced? I am grateful for your responses. Thanks for posting these very informative videos.

Hey Mikie, thanks for your video, it was exactly what happened the black wire was burned so I replaced it and worked just fine,,,,now usually how much did I save myself if you don't mind me ask you? Thanks again. Sergio Diaz

@brotherb30 The heat strip is probably fine. Burned off wiring is typically due to a loose connection or loose terminal and that causes a higher amperage at that weak point to do the job. It heats up and melts off, etc. usually replacing the wire and making sure you have good connections. ...You would be surprised at how many calls I would get on a regular basis in the winter for just that :)

thank for the vidio how would you t/shoot a heat pump connected to the system.?

I have that setup in my APT those are the most expensive way to heat. They really suck the juice

hey quick question if the heater comes on and runs till it meets temp but when trying to come on again the heat strips heat up but blower won't run could that be fan relay or sequencer? Thanks in advance

@hoangx2 doing a replacement video (of a heat strip) is on my things to do list, just a matter of time :>

good video, thanks...

Question. My filter hasn't changed for 2 years. Originally not heat. Now the fan is not blowing air. Do you think the heat strip is broken that cause the fan not running?

Hi I have a heat pump its runs loud outside both its heating good, I just see have the heat strip to in the furnace ( I am new at the heat pump) and I disconnect the wall non digital thermostat for the heat strip and I don't know how to connect back what wires thanks

Hey Mike, unit runs, but heat is low coming out of vent. extended run period also? goodman air handler.

thanks

can you tell me what the six wires in the 9 pin plug are for on the goodman/amana hkr20C. I gutted everything on my system. and started over with a heat kit. I also got a brand new transformer. I have to hook up the fan, 2 wire electronic thermostat and a switch.

Does that heat strip give info on how close it can be installed to combustibles. Heat shield required if duct is too close to strip.

Question. I measured the breaker, two hot wires come in 220V. There are many small wires connects to the breaker. I measure both side left and right. 0v. Measured left side with grounded chassis, it showed 110V. Measured right side with chassis, it showed 110V. But I measured both side of the breaker. It showed 0v. Why? Did you see the something of your broken 60A breaker?

Hi Mikie, like your HVAC and Ham videos. My next door neighbor had an electrical fire from the sequencer in they're furnace yesterday. Its been in the higher 70's here in northern Ohio. They wouldn't have turned the heat on. M1 to M2 was burnt to a crisp. M3 to M6 was fine. Some of the wiring insulation was burnt. Isn't the sequencer only for a call for heat?

Man Great Video. Showed me all I need to know. I keep getting a burnt wire on my thermal safeties. Any "typical" cause for this? Could whole heat strip be bad? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike

Great video. I'm setting up a portable job heater with a hka-15ca heat strip like the video. Question is can I run one 4 guage wire bundle to the 50amp, and jumper to my 25amp supply disconnect? Or do I have to run a separate like 10 gauge wire bundle to the 25 amp disconnect? Thanks

@DayClanTribe

3 жыл бұрын

It may be a bit large for your needs but I just plug in an electric clothes dryer on a dolly cart. I made up a short heavy extension cord to the 30 amp dryer plug. Takes the chill off pretty quick in vacant houses in the Pacific Northwest.

Are these supposed to glow red hot like a toaster, or do they give off a faint red glow ? I assume also that the all the coils are supposed to light up at once. I drilled a small inspection hole in my lower plenum, and used a cheap boroscope to view. I'm about to put a new heat kit in anyway, but i just wondered how bright these glow.

@mikie2501

2 жыл бұрын

It varies on the coil string setup, but typically there will be some sections that will turn red (not brightly with the blower running) and others that won't. If the blower wasn't on to dissipate the heat then you would see more, until the thermal limit switch cut the power for safety. It's normal for them to work that way, the coil string give more surface area to create resistive heat. As long as you have current flow going through the string then it's working fine. If memory serves a typical 5kw string will pull 20 amps, if you have a clamp-on amp meter it's easy to check and see if it's in that ballpark. Heat strips usually last a really long time and usually only fail early if there is crying that builds up on them creating hot spots weakening the metal or rust from a water issue (dirty coil above it dripping or other water issues during the summer). Hope this helps!

I had two thermal safety switches break, causing two heating elements to not turn on. I knew something was wrong because the house wouldn't warm up properly. Ordered new thermals and replaced them. Then a relay contact that controls a heating element got stuck in closed position. There was no way to know something was wrong until summer came and the AC wasn't cooling properly. Also the electric bill usage seemed high for months. The thermals kept the unit from overheating. Replaced the relay.

@mikie2501

3 жыл бұрын

Hey John! Wow, that seriously sucked!! I've been on a few calls where the heat relays were stuck closed too. Go out on a summer cooling call because the house won't cool down, nothing looks wrong with the unit, coils are clean and filter is clean, but the temp split sucks and when I hooked my gauges up, the suction and head pressure were both high! Got my meter out and put the amp clamp on each heat strip circuit and sure enough, pulling 20A on the double stack sequencer that had one strip on it and the blower motor on the other half. The blower part worked fine though. If the house reached temp at night and the unit shut off, the strip still stayed on, overheated, and the thermal limit switch would shut it off till it cooled down, then it would heat up again, over and over. Yeesh their electric bill!! I got lucky on the very first one that I found like that. For some reason, can't recall, I had popped the cover off the evap coil and could feel the heat radiating from the heat section! Usually with those symptoms, high pressures, low cooling temp split, I assume that there is a return air duct that is off and its sucking hot attic air into the unit. I've run across two new installs like that, system was changed our during the winter so it doesn't get caught till summer! Good work and catch on your system!! Mike :)

How can i eliminate all but one heat strip? I have the blower motor (2amps) and want only one heat strip (20 amps) on the 30 amps power coming in. i have a tree sequencer with four heat strips. How do i eliminate two or which two do i disconnect and tape off?

when installing an element in an AC unit do you need to have a delay switch to let the element heat up before the fan turns on?

@mikie2501

7 жыл бұрын

No. The blower motor always comes on at the same time as the first heat strip. You might have a delay for the other heat strips coming on and going off, or not depending on the unit. When the house reaches temp snd the tstat tells it to shut off, the system will either shut off everything at the same time, or it will cut off the heat strips first then let the blower run for a bit longer to get the rest of the heat in the house and cool the unit. Hope this helps!

Thanks for the video. What may cause the heat strips in a heatpump to not come on during defrost cycle?

@mikie2501

8 жыл бұрын

Hmm.... Thats one of those ones where you want to see it to figure it out, hehe. Well initially I would think something is wrong with the defrost control board. Of course it could be something as simple as it was never wired up when it was installed too. The sequencer or relay that its wired to could be bad. If you arent actually checking it with a meter it still might be working, you often wont get any warm air coming out, just less cold, heh. You have to remember that in defrost mode its the heatstrip fighting against the cooling cycle so you get lukewarm, if that, at best. Depending on the age of the system the heatstrip(s) could be bad too. The heatstrips are easily tested by running it in emergency heat or auxiliary heat mode (depending on how your thermostat os labeled). Its also worth noting that they dont always turn on all the heatstrips in defrost mode, just depends on how it was wired. Having issues with it?

Hydronic! I'd be lost, lol :> I do have a friend (retired pilot) who did a homebrew AC job on his hanger by putting tubing in the concrete and pumping whatever chemical he used through a hacked refrigerator/freezer combo, lol. :>

how do u rewire a relay for a heating and cooling fan fro a Intertherm gas furnace

Hi, I have an old electric fan heater which I had to take a part to fit it in a smaller case, unfortunately I messed up the wiring!! can anyone explain how to join/ connect the power, fan motor to the 2 heating wires please? thank you very much

Very helpful...i'm doing some troubleshooting on my electric furnace at the moment. everything seems to work its just that the coils don't seem to be heating up like they should. the air that is being blown is only luke warm. I did the tests that you showed in the video and all seemed fine. One question i had was that when i test, with my unit running, across the sequencer. assuming that it should be closed, what should the volts read? no volts is good and means a closed circuit? I have 3 sequencers and one of them was reading 240 volts while the unit was running

@mikie2501

9 жыл бұрын

Thats probably why your air only feels luke warm! :). You have two heat strips firing and the third isn't. Most likely you either have a bad heat heat strip or the sequencer is bad. Usually its the sequencer. Next time you are testing the system you can test that strip and the sequencer. Start by cutting all the breakers to the unit. Make SURE to test ALL of the incoming power lines to make sure you got it all shut off. There should be at least two breakers on a three strip unit, probably a 60 and a 30 amp breaker, assuming they are all 5kw heat strips. When you're sure its dead get a flat-blade screwdriver and a pair of pliers. I usually push the screwdriver against the metal tab where its riveted to the sequencer and then use pliers (or fingers if its not too tight) and pull the wire off. If you just pull the wite sometimes it will break the sequencer. Its easier usually to pull the wire off on the heat strip ceramic though unless its a tight spot. ...anyway after you have the wire off so that the strip isnt electrically connected to the sequencer then you can set your meter to continuity to test the heatstrip... If you touch your leads on the meter together it should beep, then you know you have it in the right setting. Put a lead on each end of the heat kit and if the coil is intact it should beep proving the circuit. (thats why you have to disconnect one side or it will read backwards through the system) You can also test the sequencer. Easiest way is to go ahead and completely remove that wire from the furnace so its not flopping around. Power the system back up and call for heat. After the other two strips fire up wait a bit to give it enough time to come on then check the coil side of the sequencer to see if youre getting 24-28 volts. Be CAREFUL not to let the meter lead accidentally touch the 240v terminal above at the same time or you'll fry things!! If you get voltage and you know the heatstrip is good then the sequencer is bad because its not closing the circuit. Sometimes you can gently smack the top of the sequencer with a nonconductive tool (say the butt end of a rubber handled screwdriver) and it will unstick. ...but if it got stuck once it will again, and you run the risk of it sticking ON as well! Lol. I went on a call in the summer once, lady said the unit wasnt cooling, pulled my hair out till I realized what was going on, her freon pressures were high on the low and high side, but her coils were really clean outside so I went inside to see if the return duct had fallen off and it was sucking attic air. That was fine but as I checked further I realized a sequencer with TWO heat strips on it was stuck on! It was heating and cooling at the same time! No telling how long it had been stuck! Wouldnt want to see her electric bill, lol! Anyway, this is really something you should get a technician to work on since your dealing with 240 volt stuff and a slip could electrocute you! (My standard warning!). The sequencer, if that is bad, usually has a set of numbers on them denoting when they come on and go off, like 1-30 on 60-90 off or the like,on the sequencer or the plate, this is so the sequencers step on and off in the right order. Sometimes the blower motor is wired to one of the sequencers too, so its important to replace a sequencer with one that is timed right! Hope this info helps, time to call a tech though, you dont want to run it very long with just two strips, this will run your bill up because it takes way longer to heat the house! Been there, done that! Take care!

@marioaguilar4585

9 жыл бұрын

COMO

Thanks for the video. One question I have is, is it a real problem to install the strip upside down? Can you change the flow on these strips? I am assuming the only difference is the sequencing of the coils?

@DayClanTribe

3 жыл бұрын

Orientation would be important as the thermal safeties are located very strategically.

i have a ? THOSE 3 LIMIT SWITCHES DO THEY HAVE TO MATCH MINE CAME WITH L-175 40 I HAVE 2 NEW ONES BUT THEY ARE L-160 20F AND A L-175 20F WILL IT WORK

Hello .Thank you for yours videos. Is the coil heat strip bad if only parts of the strip glow when it's heated? Thank you

@DayClanTribe

3 жыл бұрын

No. If it glows anywhere, it should be working. Those red areas are simply not getting cooled as well as the rest.

Thank you for your knowledge on furnaces. Mine had stopped heating. I watched several of your videos to understand what I see in my furnace, or more important is what I should see. 15 kw. I had a burnt wire and wires not connected. one of the elements was not hooked up. Connection from 60 amp cutoff switch went to both sequencers. power to two element coils ,but returned to the 60 and the 30 amp switch. I checked and I triple checked continuity and volts across the switches and elements. there was no schematic in the unit. I can't read the make or model number. The manufacturer is not even on the outside of housing. I have unit running once more all three elements work. It cycles properly. Cost : a trip to town 16 miles, 10 feet of wire and a package of wire connectors.

@mikie2501

4 жыл бұрын

Sounds great, good job! The main failures I see on electric units are undersized wire that either overheats and burns off or does enough heat/cool cycles that it loosens the connector. And then melts or corrodes and burns. Then connectors that arent crimped well, they corrode and burn off or just melt off.

Hello and happy new year, I have two questions for you. First one I have a Nordine propane Hot air furnace in my modular home. Do they make a kit that I can change it from gas to electric or do I have to replace the whole furnace. I am a retired electrician. Second my house is 2000 ft.² what size electric heater do I need I want to thank you for helping me. Love your videos

@DayClanTribe

3 жыл бұрын

If you're wanting to go electric you'd want a heat pump. Stay away from resistance heating. It's the worst cost effective heating there is.

Will throwing the breaker for 15-minutes or so reset the sequencer?

I took out the electric heat killed from a tempstar ac/heater and the heat coil isn't red all around when it heats, but only at the bottom and maybe 3/4 of up of a heat coil. Is this normal? Is the coil supposed to be all red when it's heated up? I turned up the heat to 85 degrees F and still the same thing.

Hi Mikie, What gauge of wire is used to the 240v terminals of the sequencer were they tend to burn out? Is there a special terminal into which the wire is crimped to use that will handle the high voltage. Should it also be soldered to have a good connection. Thanks

@mikie2501

9 жыл бұрын

Hi! Those are good questions! Most supply houses will sell crimp connectors that are rated for high heat. Typically 12 gauge stranded wire is rated for 20amps, I think some of the manufacturers use a higher strand count when they build it, but reg 12 ga will work fine. Over time, hundreds or thousands of cycles,the connectors heat and cool, back and forth till they get weak and stretch, then corrosion can get into the connection and start building up, which means higher amps to push through the crud. It just gets worse and worse until the connector burns/melts off! Something I run across a lot more than I should is going on a call for burned off wires only to realize its been repaired before, but instead of using 12 gauge, they used scrap wire from the back of the truck, which is usually 14-16 gauge bits left from a fan motor! It will work but at some point it will melt eventually because the smaller wiring cant easily handle the 20a.

Hello Mikie, good video man... I got to remove an old wiring from some really old systems at a apartment complex, they have heat strips 5kw.. im having a little problem tinking how im gonna rewire that with the new components, by any chance, would you have a diagram or something showing how to propper do so?.... thanks man!!

Its like only one coil is coming on too. All the vents are blowing out warm air all except the first vent. My power bill is out of the roof. The heat seems to never wanna shut off. It just runs for ever and buy the time it shuts off, 3 minutes later it seems to come back on....You seem to know your stuff and are real good at it....PLEASE HELP ME MAN

Mikie2501, I had a tech come out & it cost $200. $70. was to just come out & $125. for part (run capacitor) & labor of my HVAC unit & somewhat inspection & insight to another the unit has. It had NO Freon, needed 7.5 lbs & it's a GOODMAN unit. Now, someone came out & on the low side put in 7.5 lbs of Freon for $300. (different Tech). When the 1st tech checked everything he told me & showed me in the attic the capacitor & said it's just starts up the blower, I could even start it by hand if wanted & leave it on for air circulation. But, I said NO. We went back down stairs & tried it on heat & air NOTHING. Went outside to the unit, compressor line hook ups, NO FREON. Now, Freon $480. he wanted to fill it up plus the $200. I already was paying him. I said NO, due to money. I am a disabled vet, so you know the money fixed income deal. So he then showed how to put on emergency heat & that works. Then, borrowed some portable heaters from friends & used it with emergency heat, it's so-so. Tech #2 a friend came by, 2 weeks later put in 7.5 lbs of FREON, on the low side, outside but the fan did not come on?! So, in other videos the fan comes on or is on when putting in the Freon. Now, we have NOTHING? Lost emergency heat NO heat No air? The unit is almost 8 years old. I like the unit but from day one I notice it ran longer & longer each year even added window AC unit. What do you think is up with this problem?? When I call other tech or companies they don't want to hear it. They say set up appt. for them to come out $79. - $109. & inspect & fix ($$?) unit? Do you have any advice or comments for me on this problem for me? Thanks, PAUL in North GA. 1/19/14.

The stranded wiring they use on those kits is different than standard household wire. I believe it is appliance wire. It seems to have different amp rating limits than regular house wire how they use it on the kits. I cant find any data on the amp limits of that wire on the internet. Do you have any idea about the limits of it?

Great can u show me how to troubleshoot walk in coolers and freezers

@tkarmakid Hrm, that sounds kind of hinky! Trying to picture the unit in my head. ...but a 5kw heat strip 'should' pull about 20 amps when in use. Those are the most common anyway... I actually think I have 7.5kw strips on mine but can't remember what they pull. Might cut the breaker and check continuity and to ground on each heat strip, check the wire sizing and make sure the goob installers wired the right breaker size to the right strip. Not 2 strips to a 20 and 1 to the 40 :)

@DayClanTribe

3 жыл бұрын

According to Ohm's Law 5kw strips @ 240vac should be 20.83 amps and a resistance check should come in around 12 ohms.

@DayClanTribe

3 жыл бұрын

Oh, funny, I just noticed it's an 8 yr old comment, lol. Well maybe someone will find it useful.

Turned on heater for the first time this year and a strong odor is filling the air. Just when heater is on, however, no smell when a/c is on. Cleaned primary pan. It did have a little moldy water in it that we cleaned but still having smell when heater is on. Thought maybe a dead rodent but no smell is in attic. HELP! Not sure what to do next. Unit is 9 year old Goodman electric central unit. Other than this horrible smell everything seems to be fine with the system.

@mikie2501

8 жыл бұрын

Hi! Well while Ive heard of that situation, Ive never actually run across it, or if I have its been so long that I dont recall ;) (which isnt saying much with my bad memory, hehe;). A lot of times when you get a smell after a while the heat will cook off whatever it is that was obviously growing in there, it just needs to dry out. However if it keeps on hanging in there and just doesnt seem to go away then you can have the coils (evaporator coils) treated. Im trying to remember if its an anti-fungal treatment or the like. HOWEVER, depending on what kind of smell it is, it IS possible that you have a dead critter in there somewhere! Never fun! You might check, or have someone check, the ductwork in the attic, or under the house if its there, and see if you have had a rodent eat/tear through the ducts and get in there and die. (Lovely thought, eh?;). Ive seen mice/rats chew through, racoons are the worst if they can get a way in the attic! ...and the occasional squirrel too. If the ducts are under the house and they are damaged then you could have water laying in them as well. Sorry if this answer is delayed, Ive been slack checking my mail the last few weeks. Was the drainline clogged or any other obvious issues?

Lol! Broken and touching ground so just half a leg? hehe nice!

What would cause the coil to have Several dead spots We replaced the coil with a new coil from supply house and had same problem

@mikie2501

2 жыл бұрын

If you're talking about a single, say, 5kw string, as long as it has continuity from end to end (no cracks or breaks), you have power to it and it beats up, then it's working. I've seen lots of heat strings that only turn visibly red in certain areas. As long as they're getting 240v (or whatever the equipment is rated for), all the connecting from the breaker box to the unit connections are tight and the house wiring from the breaker box to the unit is sized properly then its fine . You can put an Amp clamp meter on one end of the string, if it's a 5kw string then it should be pulling about 20 amps. That's what I've always done, unless it's a vertical unit and there was a water leak issue with the condenser coil for a long time (think really dirty coil dropping) and I need to check the coils for rust, then I would visually check them. Hope this makes sense and helps!

So these e furnaces run on 2 wire 240? No neutral?

How do o replace my round ceramic insulators

Thanks! the problem I am having is that the heat strips are staying energized all the time. When I power up the system and run the fan the heat stips are energized...

@DayClanTribe

3 жыл бұрын

One thing that causes that is techs make a very common mistake of replacing the fan relay wired up backward.

@DayClanTribe

3 жыл бұрын

But also thinking the sequencer can stick on. I'm not sure but I think systems either have a separate fan relay or alternately integrate them in the sequencers.

Goodman electric furnace 10kw MBR1200AA-1 Goodman HKR-10c Costello heating and cooling installed a new furnace. They installed a Goodman mbr1200aa-1 ac, or tried to install. Very disappointed and frustrated. The owner, Gene, gave us a estimate. Then the next day had 2 young guys install the furnace. They did not know what they were doing. The job was supposed to take less than two hours. They worked from 9am to 2pm with the job not completed. After they got "done" wiring the furnace, they flipped the Goodman breaker then flipped the main breaker.... sparked started flying, lit up the house! They wired it wrong and screwed up my new furnace. The owner went to go get a circuit board and came back around 6pm. During that time, the Goodman was left running, blower did not shut off and the furnace heat did not shut off either. So for hours the thermostat was set at 63 degrees Fahrenheit and the temperature in the house kept raising up to 88 degrees. Unbearable and the breaker was too hot to touch to shut it off. The owner arrived around 6pm to fix everything, the circuit board part, then realized he needs another part, a relay. Left to go get the relay, and came back around 8pm. He got the furnace up and running on 1 element. So it didn't blow hot air, and it's 19 degrees outside! He said he would come back tomorrow with a contact and hook up the 2nd element. Very frustrating and scary. I would like a new furnace, one that didn't have sparks flying out of it, which could shorten it's life or damage the furnace. And a new blower, one that wasn't running nonstop for 6 hours, what a break in cycle! Last but not least, when they removed the old furnace, there was a door. Now they took that and are not supplying us with a door. When I asked about a furnace door, he said "put a sheet up". Not only is the unsafe and a fire hazard, but ugly and unprofessional. I need a door so kids don't get hurt or my cat doesn't jump up and get hurt. I paid all that money and you took and used my warranty AND I don't have a cover/door.

At 4:17 in the video, you suggest that 240v is carried thru the wire and to one side of the coil. Is the voltage coming in that side 240v or 120v?

@mikie2501

6 жыл бұрын

+Melvin292 it's effectively 120v to each side, but the load gets 240. Think of it like plugging in a three prong welder or dryer, you have the ground and two 120v legs to give the work load 240.

So my air handler heater coils are running ALL THE TIME regardless of whether I set it to cool or hot. The top ductwork above it are too hot to touch if I leave the breaker on. There doesn't seem to be any thermal protection working at all because the heat apparently has been runing like this for MONTHS and cost me $100+ extra a month on my bill. I have the panel popped off and see the two heat sequencers you show in your video. I hear a buzzing sound coming from the aux heaters as if they are running when I turn the breaker on and when I set my thermostat to COOL mode the aux heat still runs/buzzes. The top vent gets hot to the touch after a few mins so I know its on. Should i replace the two heat sequencers? Anything else I should check?

@mikie2501

7 жыл бұрын

Well it definitely sounds like a heat sequencer. The only other thing to check would be to check the low voltage coils on the sequencers to make sure it isnt getting power telling it to switch on. If you're not used to working with high voltage then I would not recommend trying to check it, its way too easy to accidentally touch the high voltage line and short it to the low voltage side, causing all kinds of problems! Not sure what your buzzing noise is unless you have a noisy transformer or something. The limit switch is probably working, the problem is that it prolly cuts out at like 130 deg or something, but as soon as the unit cools off below the cut in temp, it just turns it back on until it overheats and trips again. (When the blower is off) Let me know what you find!

Hey Mikie, I test the high limit thermostat and it was good. The unit is blowing but no heat is coming out. I only have one set of coils. How do I troubleshoot that?

@Hwoodification

10 жыл бұрын

What is the KW on your strip kit? If 5kw, that aprox 17k btu/hr. Will not be very warm. 1 KW = aprox. 3,400 btu/hr APROX.

dig your video. one question what is the clearence from the strip to any thing that could be a fire hazard. burn,

@mikie2501

9 жыл бұрын

For the most part its a non-issue, the strips are typically suspended in ceramic insulators on the rack, or they are fed through them, so to speak. The racks slide into the space and usually have one or two rods that you have to slot into holes in the back of the air handler, which can sometimes be a pain to line up! There isn't really anything in there to burn, though sometimes over the summer you can get a buildup of dust and such on them and the first time you turn on the heat for winter it can smell like something is burning. This can be minimized by using good air filters; the pleated ones, not the fiberglass fishstring looking ones, they let all kinds of crap through that eill eventually over time clog up your evaporator coil, causing the unit to freeze up, function poorly and put stress on the system in general. Not to mention a high price to have it pulled and cleaned! (Ive literally seen companies charge more to pull it and clean it than if they had just had a brand new coil installed!!) ...also air leaks around the unit can let dust into the system. Air gaps around the filter area, air gaps between parts of the equipment that should have been foil taped and sealed,etc.

@ralan5527

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Man, I DIG it too.

What can happen if the limit does not pop?

i pretty munch like gas or oil heat for central heat i use gas so the only electric is the heater that i use if i just going to heat one room at night or for extra heat and for cooking and hot water

Are the thermal safeties, are the 24v and can they be replace with a general high limit switch as long as the temp is the same?

@mikie2501

3 жыл бұрын

No, they are high voltage. Remember, they are inline with the heat strips! They do make adjustable ones that you can set the limit on, but I can't recall off the top of my head if they have them for high and low voltage. (Ele. Heat vs gas heat limits) I dont know why they wouldnt. Should be easy to search for though!

I have furnace it don't do nothing what do I check

My problem is that I moved my unit from one house to another. Now the coil does not turn amber and only heats up for about 3 seconds and thats it, fan works, thermostat works. It did work at my other house but don't know what it can be that does not turn the coil amber and hot. Is it possible that the thermal protector got ruined? Unit only two years old and probably under warranty, but paper work mixed in boxes from moving.

@mikie2501

9 жыл бұрын

Hi! Honestly, thats not a lot to work with, it could literally be a million things... Could have a coil that was brittle and broke in transit that is barely touching, wiring problems, loose connections, its a ling list! You don't live in Ft Worth do you? Hehe. ...anyway it looks like you will have to call a tech. Kind of unusual to pull a unit from the old house and put it in the new house! Call the installer back out and have them do it right! They should have tested everything after they hooked it up. You may get a surprise later qnd the ac doesnt work either!

Hi Mr I know this video is old. But it has very important information. I will be very thankful if you can give me the model number of or part number from those. Brakers or service disconnect. I can't find it anywhere.,for my electric heater. Thank

round kind firebrick element coil loop harness

The white wire is the 24v call for heat from thermostat? Right? So is the blue wire the 24v common on the heat sequencer? So I should read 24v when I put leads on each 24v side of the heat sequencer when heat is being called for? thnx!

@mikie2501

8 жыл бұрын

One side is hot, the side you are controlling from the thermostat, and the other side is common or neutral if you prefer, singly or tied to the other sequencers. It doesnt matter which side you hook up to on the coil. When you call for heat from the thermostat you should read 24-28v across the coil from one wire terminal to the other. Just be careful not to accidentally touch the high voltage terminal above at the same time or you'll fry the coil :)

@christopherataraxia2918

8 жыл бұрын

Ok perfect. Thanks man! Good videos!

@cliffordhonore2555

7 жыл бұрын

I'm

So is the purpose of the sequencer to give the fan enough time run up and or sequence the start up load ????? Thank you.

@DayClanTribe

3 жыл бұрын

Spreads out electrical load between multiple heat strips.