Just started rebuilding my 440 engine. I've been a subscriber to your channel for years. I TRULY APPRECIATE YOUR TIME AND EFFORT!!!

Eric. I want to thank you for all of your videos. It seems every time I have a question while working on my vehicle, you have a video that clearly explains the answer. Thank you very much for all of the time you've spent making these videos!

Thank you for making this so easy to understand!! I'm a 2nd year heavy duty apprentice and only due to the fact that I operated 1 type of machine for 6 winters. 2 years ago I was offered a chance to look after the machines and I accepted. I grew up an english/art nerd who struggled with scientific concepts and math so i am a fish out of water. My teachers do the best they can but it's videos like yours that really help. Looking forward to going down the rabbit hole on your channel.

so 30 years after i overhauled my smallblock i finally learned the purpose of that plastic tool 😅

@dkemp1337

2 ай бұрын

Oh me too wow

Hi Eric, I'm a mechanic that could have been. Love Internal Combustion (IC) engines. So watching you applying the mechanics to an engine just fires my interest. Keep up the good videos mate. Garry from Australia

Just a few quick things I noticed: 1. It's easier to cut the plastigage instead of sliding the whole thing out. 2. I don't agree w/ torqueing the to spec as you are going to pull it right off. Torque spec is torque-to-yield meaning you can't reuse those bolts anymore (wasted money if you had used new ones) and only applies bolt stretch to help it not back up. 3. You make great vids Eric! Keep it up!

@beetlejuice1239

4 жыл бұрын

Toluene whats the proper way of doing number 2? Without wasting anything?

@Diallo268

4 жыл бұрын

@@beetlejuice1239 Tighten it so it removes any clearances on the mating surfaces, but not to torque spec. Torque-to-yield actually stretches the bolt which doesn't help in the measurement process and that's why you have to replace them.

@kennygee2715

11 ай бұрын

I was wondering the same thing, and thank you for confirming my thoughts. I figure as long as you tighten it enough so there is no gap between the rod end and rod, it should be fine. I was concerned because I am doing an engine and I had to buy all new bolts and didn't want to waste expensive bolts $6.60/ea to do a plastigage test. @@Diallo268

@Thechildishmandingo

5 ай бұрын

@@Diallo268I was thinking the same thing about the torque to yield, I think it would depend on if you’re actually using torque to yield bolts or not. Something like ARPs are reusable and usually come with their own guidelines on how to torque them down.

I'm in the middle of rebuilding a couple of Engines. This is a nice refresher for using the Plastigauge system.

i want to say thank you Eric i have truck problems and this video is helping me out thank you and when i get my lil truck running and get back to work ima donate bro your videos are awesome ALL OF THEM i think your are very knowledgeable and you do nice production work for your videos you really show what and where things gotta happen thanks again

This was very informative and will come in handy when its time for me to work on my Corvair engine rebuild. Keep up the good work, we appreciate the videos.

Thank you for all that you do. I am rebuilding a motorcycle engine and the spec. on the manual told me to use a plastiguage to measure the clearance on camshaft. I was unsure on how to use plastigauge until I saw your video. I just do this for fun as a hobby. And I have watched many of your tutorial on engines. I am Re-building my sons 2000 1100 shadow spirit that he purchased for 500. dollars and good old Dad has to fix it up for him. He paying for the parts. lol

This is the way to down vids... every time I watch Eric’s vids I enjoy watching, because the ample explanation and how clear with easiness of understanding.

great video Eric, the basics are a really useful theme, keep them coming. Personally never knew what plastigage was or was used for, now I'm enlightened. Many thanks Eric.

Thank you Eric. I’m a Honda guy and love all your information on them. I’m new to rebuilding them and your videos are an excellent resource..stay dirty

Awesome video Eric. These basics videos have been extremely helpful.

Thanks Eric its the first time i really understand how to use plastigage great tutorial God bless mate

Helped tremendously when installing a small engine rod....Many thanks!

Wish this video was around a few years ago when I was learning how to do this. I'm not sure why but I enjoyed this process when rebuilding an engine with new bearings etc. Probably because I was nearer the end of the rebuild process and everything was going back together. 25k miles the engines still going strong :).

Awesome video thank you Eric, keep up the great work!!!!

Thanks Eric. Always great to to see you out there. Take care.

Excellent presentation, thanks for clarifying the finer points.

Thanks Eric. Very useful video and well explained.

Great video. Very complete and spoken clearly. Definitely will subscribe.

excellent. you are a great teacher. just forwarded to one of my students!!

I say "measure once, forget the measurement, cut twice, throw it away, and call it a day."

@e34boat88

6 жыл бұрын

hell yeah

@1234CreamCorn

5 жыл бұрын

You're a piece of shit.

@BILLZ62

5 жыл бұрын

Andrew if at first you don’t succeed fuck it

@deankay4434

4 жыл бұрын

Andy, why are you the one covered in flies?

@kealanbrowning1158

3 жыл бұрын

@@BILLZ62 yep if at first you dont succeed fuck its dad

The video I keep coming back to. Thanks for the simple explanation.

Hi Eric thank you for the fantastic tips!

Great video, explained very well...alot better than some other videos i seen.

Thank you for ALL the great videos... I haven't used plastigauge since the 1980's....

Thank you for making this video. Still helping people in 2020.

Hi, Eric thank you so much for this video and it's really helpful please keep doing more videos like this.

I’ve rebuilt plenty of engines and that’s the right way to do it excellent video thank you

Amazing Eric, love you work , cheers

Eric, thanks again for a clear to the point subject matter. Iron and aluminum blocks of different years have different specs as oil has dropped to 0W-5 synthetic that requires tighter clearances. But you covered that in your disclaimer. As time passes, GM has taken a very strict position on published specs which is part of their intellectual properties. They are shutting them down one by one. Note: I worked on contract labor in the field for over 7+ years and today, even tech’s change their user password often and monitor the IP addresses used by that PW and time of day. As a quick note, I have a 2003 iron block truck LS, but the production specs for the rods are 0.0009”-0.0025”, Service is 0.0009”-0.003” but also list 15 lb. ft. + 75 degree angle. Yours will very. Please folks, don’t give up as ACDelco.com can provide GM’s eSI (Electronic Service Information) for a fee, lasting 24 hrs or more if you desire. The advantage is updates, TSB, or Recalls can be updated with one key stroke. The same is true with programming modules if you have a shop. I had some programming modules wireless while the vehicle is in the parking lot. 1978 - ASE Master Tech - Retired Everyone, hit the like & subscribed!!!! Eric has some of the best videos on these subjects than many!

@deankay4434

4 жыл бұрын

Plasti-gauge has a patent going back to the 40’s. Just a note, it works if you don’t have 3k in “C” clamps with numbers on them.

@Dragon-Slay3r

9 ай бұрын

Shells or points its the samething as demonstrated today Ask jordan she didnt like it when the sas told her off 😂

Great video Eric. Thanks!

Great video... Been wrenching on my shitbox cars for years and never knew how to use Plastigage!

@guidosarducci3047

4 жыл бұрын

me too. the video was definitely helpful to me.

Thanks, I just bought some plastigage from e-bay, and now i know how to use it.

You need to get the snap-on toque digital wrench its amazing! you don't need that pain in the rear angle gauge. You can just change the setting to degrees and it works like a charm!

That is an awesome video im finding myself being confused with the precision tools I will use this information to make sure I'm doing it right

Hello Eric, Plastigage actually very good for measuring journal clearances, much easier than using a caliper set that has multiple steps to calibrate and measure. I am working on a Toyota 2zz-ge rebuild and will plastigauge all bearings. Bummer is that I have measured bore and Toyota is asking for tolerances to 0.001mm, outside the range of my current calipers (max bore 82.013mm....with my tools I'm at 82.015 to 82.017 max....GRRR, and my tools only good to 0.01mm...estimated actual) P

Excellent. Thank you. Very well explained

Good explanation on how to use this stuff. Thanks

Thank you so much for your information I’m doing the same thing right now and this is the best video by far and how to use the plastic gauge again thank you so much

Thank you Eric. I learned something new. I'm gonna apply this to a Subaru rebuild

@EuropeanDreamz

3 жыл бұрын

🗑🤣🤣🤣

You did it again boss 👍🏻

12:06 did you notice it's at 75 not 85! might have come back a bit? anyways love your work as always

@LSmiata

6 жыл бұрын

Also noticed and next was closer to 90deg. Grrr on torque to yield and old-ass tool used. In fairness, torque angle is good, especially when using oiled, not oiled, anti-seized fasteners. GOOD video on plastigage. P

@SonOf_Icarus

6 жыл бұрын

Yup

@myevoIX

6 жыл бұрын

It was at 85. The angle of the camera made it seem like it wasn’t in the right spot.

@temp___

5 жыл бұрын

This is called 'parallax'.

@WiPri0371

5 жыл бұрын

I noticed and accounted for skew. All accounted for, I believe it would've still been between 15-20. At min it would've fit squarely in the 15.

Never seen Yellow Plastigage before, but used Red & Blue in big diesels and worn oil pumps to check end clearance.

Awesome information

very well done, thanks

I place the bearing into the block and cap (rod & cap also) so that there is a slight protruding edge of the bearing on each side. This way, the bearing is properly seated into each half of the journal and that the two bearing mating surfaces will "crush" properly and evenly. This insures that the bearings will be evenly seated in each half of the journal when torqued down. Liberal engine assembly of course after plastigauging is completed.

Well Done Eric!

I learned something new .. Thank you :)

Thank you, your video was very informative!

Eric love the video can't stand how people nit pick your video's it help me use a plasticgauge cause I would be still looking for the plastic marking rod used to mark the Journal...LOL So Thanks and keep them coming..

Awesome explanation!!

Great tool for a shade tree mechanic! Never heard of this stuff until I watched a recent video from PeterFinn the car doctor. Really interesting kit and seems accurate enough.

@charleswittmer2477

Ай бұрын

accurate enough to be used for over 40 years or more.

Now that you've shown us the PlastiGage method, a video on using your pricey precision tools to do a better version of the same thing would be awesome. I've heard horror stories of Subaru engine rebuilds where only PlastiGage was used and spun, burned up bearings followed soon thereafter.

@thomasmcalear8673

2 жыл бұрын

SUBARU=JUNKYARD

I found a very interesting tool for front wheel alignment. Would be great if you could do a review of it. It's called trackace.

Nice stuff Eric great info keep it up.

Good video E. We learn something new every day do we not? Once again sir.... this video was produced very professionally. I liked it.

hello Eric, thank for the reminder

buen video teacher mi respeto amigo

Good vid. ;) I'd have mentioned to check journals at two positions 90 degrees apart. They tend to wear egg shaped; you might be fooled by one reading. I use micrometers on OD and telescopic gauges (snap gauges) on the ID. That way I use the same micrometer to measure both the ID and OD. Also, a set of telescopic gauges is much cheaper than a set of bore gauges. You might want do do a vid on measurement methods. Yeah, plastigage has been around since probably the Model-T days ;)

@willburns1221

Жыл бұрын

I do it in 4 positions

@charleswittmer2477

Ай бұрын

@@willburns1221 a insert is not round google it. the split is thinner to create a wedge of oil in the bearing. the only place to use plastigauge is 90 degrees from the split. you might mike the journal in four places but that is a little over the top i think.

Great and informative video Greetings from Australia 🇦🇺

Awesome Eric!

Vary interesting as always. Would you happen to know if a reasonably well maintained 2006 1.4 petrol Polo at 100, 000 miles might be pron to small end wear. That is, light tapping noise much more pronounced under load almost disappears with no load.

Thanks for the video. How do you clean the plastigage off of the bearing surface?

Eric... I love you man

Great video. Thanks.

excellent video

Nice job Eric you're the bomb brother

This was ver informative thanks alot

Thanks for another informative video. I was hoping you would reference your take on reusing TTY bolts or not in everyday applications. That is one question, as a backyard mechanic, I haven't gotten a definitive answer on.

@aygwm

2 жыл бұрын

Never reuse torque to yield bolts

@dkemp1337

2 ай бұрын

Once is stretched is stretched much like my ex just never the same

Great video thank you!

great video.thanks

awsome man , thanks . very good video.

Thanks very good video to understand this work

Very good....keep it up

thanks so much for the video.

Excellent video. I would think that I know how to read plastic age but I always defer to your videos as much as possible and of course I was reading it incorrectly. I was thinking the larger the squished plastic age the larger the gap. Just wasn't thinking through

That means I still can use new standar bearings? Thanks for that video

good stuff thanks again

thank you Eric.

Thanks for the video Eric. I have just learnt something new. I'm not a mechanic but like to learn more about my car and how it functions. I had my diahatsu hijet connecting rod bearing changed because it made a loud sound, one was worn down. The oil light used to flick off and on and sometimes stay on. After having the bearing changed the noise is less but the light still comes on after driving for a short while. I heard you said that the if the clearance around the connecting rod is greater the oil pressure will be lower. Do you think I may be experiencing the same problem. If the torque requirements not meet could this be the reason for low oil pressure?

Our mechanics here in nigeria use the old-fashioned way of experience in measuring the torgue specs and clearance

nice bro very clear...

ALWAYS ALWAYS put rod bearing in cap..... doing it the way you did can damage bearing. The bearing locks go lock to lock then you know rod cap is on right. Good video thanks.

great video thankyou...

Good video as I'm working on a Jeep TJ rebuild. What if the Pastigage shows the bearing clearance to be out of the required specification?

Thanks eric... Im in the process of fixing rod knock on mybevo MR 2010... Rather, in the process of finding damages.

Some great knowledge! I remember working with my dad and uncle using this plastic gauge. Now I can truly understand! Thanks!

great video, i’m curious because i am rebuilding an inline 4 that chewed up a couple of bearings via oil starvation. i don’t want to buy the wrong undersize or oversized bearings bearing when i go to take the measurements with a freshly turned crankshaft, so would i use the plastigauge on the least damaged bearings?

Exelent vídeos thank you for you help

On those fractured caps you also need to be careful when handling them. Dont put the fractured side down on anything. Those things are such a precision fit that if you damage the face of that fractured surface just a little bit they not longer fit together like they suppose to. You will be able to assemble them and torque them but you caused a stress riser that can and has caused catastrophic engine failure.

Kinda noticed you checked the clearance in inches but referenced your chart in millimeters, but it looks to be still in tolerance from .006 - .0024 thousands, since .0015 falls between the two. Still a great shape crank non the less

Great video man

Hey bud thanks for all the videos I do have a question there is a lot of crazy controversy on the LS forums but is it ok to pull them and do a visual inspection and then reinstall bearing, cap and same bolts?

sir explain about shims adding procedure on this type of connecting rod.and where we can add shims for reducing clearance on cylinder chamber.

Very interesting!

Awesome bro

are they stretch bolt like they use in heads.i did the same tork doing head gaskets on my 3.1 but had too use new bolts thanks for the info. mike