Thanks for the shout-out Ryan. I'm very glad my style of indirect percussion (behind the knee) has helped you (and others). I watched this video because I recently tutored a brand new knapper. He was making mistakes that I hadn't seen before or forgotten about. It's always good to be reminded of the challenges new knappers face and this video helped me with that. Thumbs up.

@joannem3568

2 жыл бұрын

Love your channel Jack you and Ryan are my favorite flintknappers to watch

@azaba2007

Жыл бұрын

I also used Jack's style of indirect percussion and find it great help. Still, can't knapp properly. Sigh.

@joannem3568

Жыл бұрын

@@azaba2007 yep gotta agree, I still suck too , but I'm working on it. 🤣🤣

@johnkeck1025

Жыл бұрын

I thought ishi used indirect percussion.. but I'm not 100% on that, just something I heard once..

@ChristianMarkhamNTX

Жыл бұрын

Damn well if you're interested in tutoring someone else, I've been going for about 6 months and have only been able to make 3 passable bifaces. Very frustrating...it never works out the way it does in you guys' videos!

I love telling people that I’m going home to Knapp or I have a couple friends coming over to Knapp with me and watching their expressions! Lol. I get all kinds of reactions like silence and confused or they go into how the need a nap as well lol but it opens the door to inform people of this lost trade.

That was nothing short of fascinating! What a remarkable transformation from the piece you began with. You are a truly skilled artisan/craftsman sir, and a pleasure to watch.

Ryan this has been super helpful and showed me several bad habits that I've been repeating! Something I was pondering while listening was the importance of thining while still holding width. It might would make a great video to explain how that a wider point causes more damage but the thining reduces the grain weight. When I first started just freestyle knocking out points they were sharp, but usually too bulky for practical use. Keep up the awesome work, I always look forward to more of your content!

As a woman who has learned without a mentor except you, Jack Crafty, freezecracked and a few others on KZread, I have to say, THANK YOU!!!!!

Hey Ryan, Not sure if this is of any value to your (?) but when I'm knapping (and other related work where material is removed...like in sharpening or stone carving, etching by hand, scrimshaw, as just some example)...whether I am teaching it or for my own visual clarity...I use a "layout" fluid or marking agent of some kind... With knapping, it is much easier for students to see the flake generation when the origin blank is marked (a felt tip maker works well) thus the flake removed is very visible. This increases understanding experientially in the student (and ourselves!) of how a given conchoidal fracker takes place... I really liked (once more in this video) the stressing of what actual "arrowhead" sizes are...When you stated that in the video at 46:20...about the blank you were working on. Agreed, at that size, it was a lance, knife, or atlatl size...NOT!!!...and arrowhead... Love your videos Ryan and always looking forward to the next!

As Always Ryan, thanks for your time and keeping the world a more interesting place. Can't wait to go collect materials for the upcoming season.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge of Flint Knapping, I plan on trying it myself, You do a good job teaching!! Thanks again.

I made a couple bifaces today. Decided to wait and thin them later. Luckily this video popped up in my feed afterwards. Now im going to need some knapping lubricant for Saturday. Also thank you again Ryan.

Thanks so much for sharing. I am a beginner, but just worked through the winter and then I haven’t gotten back to it till recently. You are right, very frustrated with learning how to thin. It really helped to have you tell me to turn over the piece to create a platform on the opposite side that you want to thin. I can’t get my head around why it works, but it really has helped!

Outstanding video! Thinning turtlebacks has always been a sticking point for me and this really helps explain strategies. Well done.

Man, I feel like i am in the presence of flint knapping greatness when i watch hour videos!!

This has been the video I've been waiting for!! I can notch plate glass and shape points but I always get stuck when I try to thin the pieces of stone. I've manly used bottle glass or sea glass fragments from Michael's because it was cheaper for me to ruin glass versus waisting good expensive stone. But now I've moved to a place that has good natural stone deposits that's only a 20 minute drive away. And it's the same place that I can hunt with primitive weapons too! I'm so stoked!

I enjoyed the video. Probably the most informative and best on the subject that I have ever seen. Thank you, Sir!

Alright I’m just watching just to watch I’m already an advanced knapper but when he said he always abrades away from him maybe it means something maybe it doesn’t. It does. Always abrade away. Just trust me on it. The first lesson of one eyed hawk 😂 your face will thank me later 👍

@LeMayJoseph

Жыл бұрын

Hahaha that made me chuckle.

I'm so glad you're doing this video. I'm learning this and I've had several arrow heads almost perfectly shaped for what I'm trying to do, but I can't get them thin enough, and I keep breaking them trying to thin them.

This is a great video. It would really benefit from having focus adjusted either with continuous autofocus or getting a lens that allows for a shorter minimum focal distance. Being able to see more detail in the rock would be awesome! If you want to know how to do that I’d be happy to help. Thanks for the tool set. So far I’ve made a bunch of flakes, I’ll keep trying😂

I appreciate the HELL outta these masterclass knapping videos!

Fantastic demonstration of thinning. Thank you so much, this is an area I struggle with over and over. Gravel I make.

Awesome!!! Thank you Ryan!!! Cannot wait to watch this video!!

Great video as usual buddy! Thanks for taking time to do this, always learning from ya

Funnily enough I'm good with glass but not with stone, so hopefully this will help me alot, thank you for handing out the in depth info like this

Awesome video, very in depth on stuff that I'm still struggling on. 👍 I've got some really thick pieces of old plate glass from a Victorian era dump site, and it's perfect for practicing thinning on. For anyone reading this, if you can't find any thick glass to practice on, keep an eye out for some old broken toilets. The "Thunder Chert" you can get from them is perfect for knapping practice. 👍

This helps out a lot. I just bought the deluxe kit from your website and have been practicing a lot. Thinning has been an issue but hopefully I can use this video to try and get it figured out.

I am so amazed with your instructions and on how to. Very understandable your very talented your truly a master in your trade.

Really really helpful and clearly delivered while honestly demonstrating.. thanks a bunch man

Thank you so much for sharing the knowledge I just started Flint napping and this is a huge help to me again thank you so much

I’ll be picking up some supplies from your site. You are an excellent instructor. Thanks. Now I have to go ruin some rocks😊

thank you for going in depth with your descriptions, most youtube knappers dont do that

This has really helped me. I like your comment about Jack Crafty. He is quite different from you in many ways, and is the main "other" knapping channel that I watch. I get a little more from your channel, but he is very helpful also. It takes a special kind of person to give credit to others and you are such. Stay "lubricated" and keep terrorizing those cracker hogs.

I scrolled over the video quickly in my list and thought it was kidnapping for beginners lol

I learned a lot from this video. Thanks Ryan!

Fantastic work my friend

I use a honey locust as a i.p. rod and some kind of softwood hammer. ( Cyberian elm, juniper even pine) 6gauge cold rolled copper wire. dental floss wraps. And expanding brown gorilla glue. Love it. Never had a need for nasty plastics. I did start an antler/wooden finisher just to see what it's like. Will finish it for this seasons knapping. Can't wait to make my moose antler billit.

Great video Ryan. Spot on....

I needed this. Thank you.

Thank you for all your tutorials Ryan. I was tempted to buy a delron indirect but after watching all your videos and especially this one you’ve convinced me to get wood. So I decided to order one of your website instead. I’m excited to put my hands on it and start doing some indirect work.

@bigoldgrizzly

2 ай бұрын

A similar sort of thing with axe handles - give me wood over plastic or fibre glass any day of the week. Wood might not last quite as long but the difference in every axe blow is huge

Wow thank you I just have to start by getting some stone you explained the process most excellently

Really, really good video.

Getting back into knapping after years of being out of it. I learned on obsidian here in my home state but I need this detail for tougher cherts. With obsidian I can flake right through concavities by going deeper with my angle in the platform (this will also break it sometimes but I have learned to hit this right. This is not possible with cherts. Thanks for the detailed video and keeping tradition alive. Also thanks to Jack Crafty, and you for detailing the indirect option. With my Ishi stick, it should be a pretty easy transition.

this is a great tutorial thanks

Great information, thank you

Excellent! Thank You.

Yep, I struggled with the Delrin and the fact that the set screw meant there was always some "give" at the hit. Your wooden indirect punch is much sturdier and transfers the energy better.

I love it when the entire section of nasty step fracture comes off in one piece.

Thankkkk you I needed help in this so much

So hard to explain these mechanics, good job bro. I’ve tried, I can’t ever really find a way to describe the angles needed

@flumyxx

2 жыл бұрын

watched your live stream. beautiful blade :)

@Wildernessquestoutdoors

2 жыл бұрын

@@flumyxx heya thanks for watching!

Great Video ! Thank you !

That's great so good wow .I so need to get there

This is awesome I want to learn it all

Thank you for the video man👌

Very nice video brother enjoyed it. Gene Gorringe Mi 👍✌️🇺🇲

I appreciate the energy transfer of wood over delrin/delron indirect knapping. I can depend on a solid and consistent strike that is lost in the plastics. The tip gets loose or can slip so it loses effectiveness to me. Consistency and accuracy are two root variable a knapper must obtain to become productive. I don't have years of experience but I have tried lots of stuff to find my zone and I'm always trying to learn and I appreciate your videos. I recently did something and I love it for notching and other things and I want to share it with you. It's just taking a ¾" round sick of hard wood and drilling a ⅛" pilot hole in the end to run a 4" deck screw in. Leave ¾ inch exposed after trimming the head off. File it to the shape you want and go to work. The screw is more springy and stores up energy so when the flake releases it drives it. You can screw it out with pliers as it wears. Give it a shot and tell me what you think.

@DanB1987

2 жыл бұрын

What metal is the deck screw made from?

@GL4speed

2 жыл бұрын

@@DanB1987 I'm not sure exactly but the brand I have is Grip Rite outdoor decking screw for treated wood with a Torx head. I still use a horseshoe nail for sharpening but I may switch to a screw there too pretty soon, but a smaller gauge one.

@errollittleton5663

Жыл бұрын

L

@GL4speed

Жыл бұрын

@@DanB1987 I think I may have misunderstood your question. It is metal/steel. I thought you meant composition wise...such as hardness or malleability. I forge knives too so I tend to think deeper than just saying metal. It has some spring to it but will wear as quickly as a nail or pretty close. The spring is what I liked over the nail. It stores energy and drives flakes better to me more than a dead bend nail.

Great video

Great vid

Your 6:20 good side platform is "not far enough" comment struck home. Great job with the vidios.

I've been working on thinning so this video couldn't have came at a better time.. I work with antler but I have some copper tools too.

Thinning “chunky” rock with Indirect has proven difficult. I get long thin flakes, but not enough material removal. I bought Copper Boppers 20 years ago but gave up on them. Instead I use various hardness Sandstone, but often destroy my Sandstone hammer stones. Watching your video, I think I discovered why I do poorly with the Copper Boppers. My boppers handles are about 3 -1/2 inches and seem too short. I need to stick in a wood dowel to “extend” my tube handle to be about 5-inches to allow some swing/wrist snap. With too short handles I find the need to punch downward. I see you use a short swing with a bit of wrist snap. You let the weight of the bopper do the wok. Thanks for sharing you experience.

Thanks Ryan, one of the best Flint Knapping videos I've watched. Your instructions and attention to detail are outstanding and have provided me with a much better understanding of the knapping process..

excellent thank you

You make that look so easy but it's not,but I keep watching as I learn more

Thank you!!

Have my toolkit ordered from you! I know it’s annoying, I only ordered today, but I’m just curious as to when the kit/rock usually ships from order placement. I’m excited to get started haha.

That was interesting.

I think you should do a “how to heat treat flintknapping stones” video. Also I really enjoyed this video

@christopherconaway3549

2 жыл бұрын

he did make a video years ago about heat treating and he says even tho its an old video, the info he presents is still accurate. but he did also mention it was one of his earlier more awkward videos before he was used to recording himself. maybe try checking that one out?

Ryan Gill I don't think you are getting more efficient transfer of energy between the flaker and the workpiece with wood than a high molecular weight UMHF polymer. I have many hours with of both behind my knee and I hypothesize that the difference your experiencing comes down to the bit's time on target after the flakes is struck. You can visualize it as how long it takes for the flaker to (and how efficiently it) 1: can flex and store the spring energy and 2: transfer that energy down the flaker, through the bit, and finally into the workpiece.

I'm about a year and half into knapping indirect style, use about softball size hammer stone, that was left behind by a previous knapper to hit my stick with

@LeMayJoseph

Жыл бұрын

Feels like a stone would be a lot more damaging to your stick than a hunk of wood, no?

I am about s year and half into knapping, I use a softball size hammer stone to hit my stick w

It shouldn't be necessary to sell simple wooden mallets of that type (especially to the primitive skills/survival/hunting community) but it may actually prove necessary. Frankly, it's strange to me how the homemade wooden mallet has stopped being considered a necessary tool for homeowners and craftsmen. Wooden mallets, from simple round, one-piece mallets to two-piece joined mallets or even lead loaded, wooden-headed mauls, used to be the preferred blunt tool for everything but metalsmithing (although, they are also useful in smithing if you need to bend material instead of moving material). I think the change came because of lowered cost of iron nails encouraging carpenters to switch to using nails and staples for joining wood, when those were once mainly used by shipwrights but not many other woodworkers. My theory (not really a unique theory) is that this meant that the layperson's essential toolkit to deal with home repair and small woodworking projects now had to include a metal hammer for at least driving if not pulling nails and that people (wanting to deal with as few tools as possible) began to see mallets as redundant sometime after that, because you can use a hammer in place of a mallet even if it's not ideal, transfers too much energy, and has higher potential of scarring your work. Combine that with the desire to have your tools manufactured by someone else and I can see how this all happened, but it still strikes me as odd.

@jimmyrustler8983

2 жыл бұрын

I get what you mean. You could likely make a decent impromptu ishi stick mallet from a cheap baseball bat.

Hi Ryan, cool video, learned a lot. Out of curiosity, do you or anyone else mount and shoot these arrowheads. I'm curiosity about how effective they are, maybe a hog hunt or such, primitive men took down mammoths, dinosaurs and such. Might be fun!

@huntprimitive9918

9 ай бұрын

Sure thing. A huge portion of my channel is hunting with stone points and both the atlatl and bows & arrows. I have killed 64 big game animals to date with them and have a couple books on the subject on the huntprimitive.com website

As far as selling wooden poppers, since you’re right here in Florida. What about cypress knees?

Just a thought, why not make your handles in octagonal cross section. I do this with many metal and woodwork tools. Gives positive indexing in your hand and helps stop everything rolling off the bench

Hey I was wondering what you think of a short Spear atlatl about to times longer then the thrower. The atlatl would be thick and inflexible and with fletching for stability in my thought. This could be usable for tighter areas and small game where a bug long Spear could get stuck in dens vegitation. Maybe something you have tried or should Try, would be interesting. Spelling mistakes do to auto correct to Norwegian toung and being a second less mastered language

@naturewithandy7204

2 жыл бұрын

Atlatls darts have to be flexible in order to fly properly. That’s why they are long and thin. The ratio of thickness to length has to be about twice that of an arrow in order for it to have the right spine. Experience is the best teacher!

I made me one them sticks it's breaking on the end I see you got something around the stick what is that holding end together.

"One more shot of lubricant" 🤣🤣🤣

I've observed some originals and I'm willing to bet that the reason they don't appear to have been sharpened or completely finished is because they were just that, unfinished points. Maybe they just made cashes of those unfinished pieces and only finished them off when needed to avoid damaging a very nicely knapped point in their travels?

Hey, im really struggling. Maybe i shouldnt have started out with obsidian ?

Where can I purchase tools?

That arm is filling out nice

I tried UHMW with not much luck but I was just getting started. Only knapped a few months about 2 years ago so my experience is minimal.

Is it possible to thin it with hammerstone only?

your good

Would love to see you make a translucent knife that is too thin

I've gotten good at thinning with one of your ishi sticks, and can get well shaped and thin points with bone and stone, but I only have a year of experience so most of my spalls are beyond my ability to make into a preform

@LeMayJoseph

Жыл бұрын

Are you using his moose antler one or his copper one?

@creepingslaytor6073

Жыл бұрын

@@LeMayJoseph moose antler, I'm an abo knapper, but if I had to do it over I'd get copper only because of how quickly that moose chips

@LeMayJoseph

Жыл бұрын

@@creepingslaytor6073 yeah I just got one of the moose ones myself. Haven’t had a chance to use it but it did come with a note about not smacking it too hard in order to prevent chipping the nib.

@creepingslaytor6073

Жыл бұрын

@@LeMayJoseph ha that's a worthwhile note, my truck honestly that prevents chipping is leave the edge slightly sharp, it helps with detachment of flakes and doesn't eat up my tool, or atleast with my techniques

@LeMayJoseph

Жыл бұрын

@@creepingslaytor6073 so you’re just not abrading the edges?

tyty

I prefer the wood rods because I break less points and it feels more natural

hola como acer una bayesta

what is Delron?

@LeMayJoseph

Жыл бұрын

Delrin. It’s a dense, durable plastic. You can buy it in rods of various thicknesses. I have a 1.5 in diameter rod for hitting my IP tool. Delrin is the brand name, it’s called acetyl copolymer.

Who else if flint napping along with him

Tried to watch your video. Couldn't go 3 min without a commercial. Very frustrating

I disagree with what you are teaching! First- you are Knapping indoors, allowing the dust to build in the air, where those microscopic particles can remain in the air for an hour you are breathing them every breath! Second- you abrade your platforms up by your stomach, creating clouds of sharp particles you breath, within a foot of your face. You are teaching many to do this- while reality is, each Breath that is taken in that has those sharp particles, is creating scar tissue in the lungs!!!! Reducing lung capacity with each breath. I Knapp out doors Often with a small battery operated fan sucking the dust away. All abrading is done down below my knees, as far as I can get away from my face. Please teach them this! Thanks!

Calories in, calories out, sigh

this flintknapping hobby is really difficult.

That's so clear even Joe & kamala could understand 🚍 🤷‍♀️💭ld like to Knapp a yellow school bus

@canadiangemstones7636

10 ай бұрын

tRump lost

I work with a smooth stone. 🪨For Flint napping