As a southern Californian, I am always in awe watching mechanics work on rusted vehicles.

Almost 6 years later and you just saved me almost $300! First caliper replacement I’ve ever done. Thank you!! P.S. don’t use your palm to break bolts loose (lol)

Thank you Eric the Car Guy, Your videos are a comfort for me as a DIY car mechanic. You have saved me and my family so much money over the years... Continue your fine work

Legitimately the first guy who makes sense and doesn’t drag on for hours. Thanks heaps man!! appreciate the tutorials a lot.

Sure pads are cheap and easily replaced. but he's not fixing pads, He's fixing a stuck caliper where most mechanics will happily charge you $200 or more for a new caliper and labor. He's done a great job on educating people that a stuck caliper doesn't always have to mean a costly replacement. Thanks Eric. great job. wish there were more honest mechanics like you.

@m.o.n.e.ypower8484

4 жыл бұрын

He didn't fix a stuck caliper he didn't even fix the rubber boot around the Piston nor did he show how to get the Piston unstuck

@m.o.n.e.ypower8484

4 жыл бұрын

This video showed him cleaning the caliper not fixing the problem with getting the rubber boot or piston from being stuck

@mist3rmaniac

Жыл бұрын

@@m.o.n.e.ypower8484 yeah, that's what I thought the video would show....

One way to prevent the rear brakes from rusting and get stuck, is to exercise the brakes every now and then, just brake hard a few times to remove any surface rust from the discs, and to make the pads and the caliper move a little bit. The number one reason the rear brakes fail and get stuck is that people don't brake hard enough. Awesome channel btw, keep up the good work Eric.

Thank you for these videos, this one helped me conquer my fear of going near the brakes on my car 1991 Honda Beat, the binding got so bad I had to take the plunge. This video with the help of a Japanese Service Manual guided me in the right direction and it's now free to move. Will still need to replace the pads at some point due to uneven wear but this video really helped, just perfect, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

I am SO thankful your old videos are still available all these years later! Referencing today before investigating the rear brakes on my '07 Accord for a noise and suspected caliper problem of some sort.

Awesome video, thanks Eric you saved me lots of money, I was told by a mechanic my caliper was bad and needed replacement, all it needed was a good clean and lubrication, now there's no noise, thanks again I subscribed to your channel.

Eric I love your videos. I live in New Hampshire and have been a tech for 12 years. This is the most common cause of premature brake failure. You need to always clean the rust from under the shims and put plenty of brake lube under and on too if the shims before putting back together.

Found your channel recently and have to say I am impressed. Well done and informative and obvious you know what you are doing. I am by no means your caliber of mechanic but have been getting dirty for many years. Motor head to the core but maybe I will have to start wearing those nice rubber gloves. Love what you do and keep putting up the clips.

Very generous to share this. You're one of the good guys. Thanks from a Lake District, England Hyundai driver - with sticking brakes all over the place!

Eric your videos are excellent, I have learnt a lot from only watching a few of them on brakes. It's just like standing next to you in the workshop and watching. Brilliant!

As Aaron just said, slamming your palm on wrench's and ratchets, will catch up with your hands. Thank you again for a well covered repair, Jim.

Thanks for yet again a very informative video that covered stuff I was doing wrong over the past 30 years of DIY car maintenance and repair - like using grease for those caliper pins instead of silicone paste (unstuck my rear brakes 8 months ago and wondering why they seized again so soon.... you're a life saver!). Anyway after watching and learning for a few years I finally did the right thing by you and subscribed. Thanks for all the help and guidance over these past years.

Thanks a bunch! You uploaded this at a good time as I am about to service the brakes on my 23 year old Silvia.

Very nice! I am a technician myself. I was about to write on here about 7:50 into the video say the following: "Whenever I clean/service calipers and caliper brackets at work, after I clean the shims and the shim housings on the bracket, I discovered a little bit of anti-seize on the housing will help prevent future rust and less chance of brake failure" But soon enough you did what I was about to say lol. Good job, was like I was watching a video of myself doing it 5/5!!!

Such a good, informational video. I see rust growing on my rear rotors so this is exactly what I needed (or atleast one thing to check for anyway). I'll be watching this as I work on my car. Thanks for making these Eric!

I always fine tune the brake pads with a file' The ends always have excess metal,like you did fit and try,then fit and try until they slide properly, because your brakes can never be good enough. Good brakes are a good way to stay healthy. good video

Thank you so much for this video. I have changed out my sons rear pads 3 times in the last 2 years and was trying to figure why it was grabbing so hard in the back and over heating. this seem to be the ticket. Thanks again!

Keep it up man, these vids are a godsend to people like me that have no one to guide them and supply advice.

This was the perfect video for my issue; excellent walk through; clear and concise; thanks Eric !!!!

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. What is the date for the meet-up for 2019?

I went to replace the rear calipers on a 2012 honda crv, and could not get the caliper bracket to come off. Yes there was some rust, but i was able to get all bolts off no problem. It seems like there is some piece of metal that is lodged to the bracket and the caliper behind the rotor. Any idea what is is and how I can get the bracket off?

What a kind, generous, humble, capable man you are.

Great DIY video Eric. I really appreciate the video's your putting out. Thank you.

Very informative and useful information on all the little details along the way, top job and thanks for sharing you knowledge

Nice video - and well-explained like always. I have the same problem with stuck rear calipers and have a suspicion that this is due to exactly the same reason

Bless your heart and your hands. Thanks for your wise words and your generosity with the information of your trade. I sincerely thankyou Eric. Now let's see if I can get my car moving before the tow guy.

Thanks for posting these helpful videos! I am subscribing. Keep up the excellent work

Great! Looks really good I hope I can do this on my stucked caliper.

thanks for this video Eric! you are truly a great mechanic! keep up the good work!

I had a similar problem on my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI. I removed the calipers, cleaned all contact surfaces with a wire brush, brake cleaner, and also used a small file to ensure the rear brake pad end plates were free of corrosion. I also used anti-seize on all contact surfaces and replaced all the brake hoses with new hoses. The rear brakes now work perfectly.

Eric You have saved me so much money and time, Thank you.

man im so glad u posted this vid....now I can fix mine on my truck...thanks!!

Damnit man! You are a champion! I have learned so much watching your work! I can't thank you enough for showing us DIY'ers how to properly do things. It is truly inspiring. Move to Texas!

You’re video is really informative! I am so glad I found your channel!

I have a 2012 Dodge Grand Caravan and every 6 months the sliders as well as the parts Eric talked about have to cleaned and lubricated otherwise I start to smell the sticking of the pads to the rotor. The rear of these vans are known for it. I will not waste money on parts that have nothing wrong with them other than surface rust. I've repaired my vehicle as well as my sons for years and saved a whack of money. Great video Eric.

Excellent video, great advice for everyone. Thank you for bothering to do film in such detail.

good easy to follow flick. Taught myself to change pads, years ago. Bikes and cars. Copraslip is my choice too. Liked the way the hub/rotor wouldn't turn, when finished.

Another very helpful video from ETCG, many thanks...

Worth doing if the piston looks all rusted out? The rotors were recently replaced along with the pads and now the inner side of the rotors has a rust ring right in the middle, or should I just replace the entire caliper

Thank you very much for your info.my car. Had a problem.left front wheel side won't spin toyota matrix 2009. Is there something you may know and concern solve that problem.? I appreciate your help. Thank you.

if i rebuild my calipers do i need to change the cylinder too if it has a rust eating the cylinder? because it still leaking brake fluid even i change all the rubber sealing.

Great Video Eric !!! Finally someone shows how to properly service the caliper. I do it this way on EVERY brake job, as I'm up in New England. And if you don't then the pads will freeze and wear out in 6 months. +1 on the Silicone for the slide pins.

I just had my rear caliper on my 370z stick pretty bad. It was the actual piston sticking. I found a tear on the boot and i think my wheel cleaner got in there and dried it up or something? Its my only vehicle so what I did was stick the WD40 nozzle under the rubber boot and gave it a good soaking. It stopped the sticking for now but i definatly need a new one. I was real careful not to get any on the rotor or pads and i wiped up any that was on the outside. Seems like a good temporary fix in my condition? I mean is there any danger with it mixing with brake fluid or something i dont know?

I agree that you should have the "chirper" on the inside pad Experience has taught me (even thought its only about three years) to always put the indicater in a location with path of least resistance mean that if the happens to fly off of the pad it with be ejected promptly by the forward motion of the wheel and not get thrown into the caliper and possibly cause more damage there are my thoughts on that. And as far as not beating on your prybar to free those pads I say use what you feel safe w/

Hey we change the rear brakes and then need a new calipher put that on one side only and now the rear brakes are not working and the brake pedal in the car goes down too the floor any suggestions

So was it rusting bad because something was sticking and getting the caliper super hot and cold then hot and cold plus water while driving

Another clear easy to follow video. Thanks!

Thanks for the video. My rear calipers are not working evenly, i.e. they are wearing the brake pads more on the bottom or one edge than the other. How do I correct this issue? I'd appreciate for any useful response.

Eric This is a great video for me. Instructive and entertaining. And very useful too. And the tips from the other viewers are great too.

Eric I have had my rotor and brake replaced for the front in May and the back Aug all of this year?

Oh man - I was just dying to see you take off that disc and shine it up! Ace video as always.

I have an intermittent problem with an 06 Grand Caravan.. the rear disc brakes are engaging, left OR right side, getting so hot they smoke. I just had new pads and rotors installed. There's only 35K on it, and it's in great shape. When engaged, I have to pill over every 2 miles or they smoke. The ABS light works, but is not coming on. What could cause this??

any chance the brake pads fit a different production month / date? had a similar issue with an outback, might be the cause of the problem.

Thanks good info in this video. Outside pad wore all the way down and inside pad hardly wore , so I'll inspect everything you mentioned

great mate , thanks for the help and taking the time to do these

I have a question. I have the same problem stuck caliper pin and a whole lot of rust. Only my issue is it's so rusted I cant even loosen the pin from the housing to take it off of the rotor it looks like it rusted together so it looks like its 1 piece. Any idea how I can get it out of there?

My front wheel drive 2005 Kia spectras front two brakes keep locking up causing them to turn super red hot! Do you know what I should look at?

You use silicon paste on the slide pins, is this heat profe or can it tackle high temerature whitout problems??

Just did a new caliper and have a slow leak. However it is not leaking from where the brake line attaches but rather around the area of the spring. Yes it is the rear passenger caliper on a 98 mustang gt. What can I do about this only leaks when brake is pressed down

Thanks for the video. As always, very helpful.

Great video. How would you deal with a STUCK caliper? i was driving down the highway once and my front right caliper locked down on the rotor, and there was lots and LOTS of smoke and it was hard to move. Any way i made it to my drive way at home and did the only thing i knew to do wich was observe the problem caliper,, i then came to the conclusion i should bleed the brakes, so one by one i bled the brake lines and several hours and a big mess later i was back in business and have never had that problem since then. I did notice there was a chip or a piece broken off the round doughnut part of the caliper. Just curious if this is a problem or could be a problem.

Eric..information video! Just had a question..I have an 2009 Acura TSX that has been running problem free for 85K miles..My rear brake pads were changed around ~33K miles (due to a Honda Technical Service Bulletin). Yesterday, I was at the service center for an oil change and they stated that my rear right brake caliper was locking up leading to uneven pad tear. If the caliper was locking up, wouldn't there be a drag and my vehicle would drift in one direction without going straight? I didn't notice any of that. I'm planning to visit another center for a second opinion. But Is there any way I can perform some checks myself? (I will be watching out for the heat on the rim, of course as you stated). Thanks!

I never thought to anti-seize the shims. I learned something today, thx Eric!

Thanx Eric, another great video. Got me out of a real mess!!

Hey Eric the car guy I have a 04 Chevy Tahoe I recently replace both front pads and rotors and also the both calipers for some strange reason I smell burning brake just on the right front now I brought the calipers from AutoZone I just took back the right front caliper thinking the caliper was bad but I still get that burning smell when I'm braking and it's just the right front side that's doing it do you have any suggestions on what it could be

Hey Eric I change my brake pad sensor twice and my car still keep telling me to check the back brake pad wear, now the car saying the ESP is unavailable an I did not turn it off. How can I diagnose this please help me.

You uploaded this video 24 mins ago, and you already have 164 views. lol That's shows the success you have :)

@tomuschrysos

3 жыл бұрын

Now it has almost 1 million.

Eric, I have a 2005 silverado 4.8 2wd with a sticking caliper both sides, front right, front left, I changed the calipers the brake hoses the master cylinder flush the brake fluid, and still sticking both sides, what do you think it could be?

@taranofford7754

7 жыл бұрын

100ega It's a chevy

@nicholaslynch7651

6 жыл бұрын

Taran Offord I have to agree, replaceing with ford will make all the diffrence.

@psdaengr911

6 жыл бұрын

Serving brakes means servicing every part of the system. SInce the front brakes work, the master cylinder is good,. -When you flushed the brake system was it much harder to flush the rear than the front? If so the proportioning valve may be bad. -Did you change the frames at the same time that you changed the calipers? If not, clean the frames per this video. -Did you change the pads, springs and abutment clips? if not, replace them. -Did you check after lubricating and installng the caliper guide pins that the caliper moved freely befor installing the pads? If not, clean off all the grease and LIGHTLY lubricate them. GENTLY press the caliper back into its cylinder. If it doesn't move, loosen the bleed screw slightly and try again. If it moves, in, it's not binding in that direction. Tighten the bleeder screw. Remove the pads. Put a piece of 1/4" plywood in place of each pad and apply the brake. If the caliper moves, it's not sticking in one direction.

Your content Is so helpful. I love stuff like this. Thanks for all your effort. 👍

Very good Video, Thanks a lot and God bless. I Usually watch your video, a great way to learn. Thanks. Mike

Another great video Eric! Best channel on KZread.

My caliper bolts are seized up and my breaker bar won't fit inside the rear wheel well. What do you recommend?

This was the exact video I was looking for, thank you so much!

Wow, these videos are great. I have experience in car and motorcycle maintenance and repairs (not a professional mechanic, but I do stuff just like in the video) I could not imagine doing this type of repairs AND make such a nice video about it at the same time. Keep up the good work!! :-)

Had a rear slider on a dodge ram yesterday and the one slider was like it came from the factory with now lube in it at all. The rest were fine and there is only 100,000 kms on the truck and the brake pads were never changed until yesterday and they still had half the pad left lol. I couldn't believe it. All highway km's I was told. Great vid Thanks.

Thanks ECG for addressing the stuck pads which I have. I couldn't find any other videos that addressed this issue and I hope a cleanup like yours is all I need to do to eliminate a subtle grinding sound. If there is no feeler gauge on either pad can I switch them since the inside pad has 1/8 inch more wear (thinner)?

Yours videos are very hepful. thank You for sharing your knowlege with us

Thank God for KZread!!!

GREAT VIDEO, LOTS OF GOOD INFO, TY

I just had this happend to my acura integra that has been parked for a little while and we had a bunch of rain. I could not understand how one of my calipers would just lock up and this is a great example of how the brake pads can rust and get stuck.

is there a big difference on the brakes between copper and regular anti-seise? where do you get your silicone paste? I noticed you did not put anything on the piston boot? I heard Vasoleene is good to put on the piston boot, is that correct?

Is it always this problem my son has a 00 Jeep Grand Cherokee the back rear drivers side studs broke off yesterday after replacing the studs it’s still looks like the wheel is stuck

I love your videos Eric. Thanks for posting!

Thanks for the tip on using silicone paste instead of regular anti-sieze grease on the caliper pins. Not being a trained mechanic, I had no idea! I'll have to open up my calipers and fix that this weekend. ;)

great video. i used to use silicone paste on the slide pins like eric said, but when you work on oilfield trucks, pins are seized and rusted in all the time so i just use the copper antiseize lube on the slide pins to that way when the brakes are worn out everything comes apart, instead of having to replace the calipers and and brackets.

Ive just had to have new rear calipers on my 2014 suzuki swift but if id tried this just maybe they would have freed off but the mechanic said the pistons had seized but i wasnt totally convinced.????

Thank you for your video. Always big help. Do you recommend lubricate space between caliper holders and pad shim ?

If you do this and clean the rotor by using the brakes, can you save the pads by cleaning them somehow, or should you just buy a new set?

Thanx Eric, great video as always!!

As always very informative, thanks Eric

What vehicle was this. The parts for the caliper rebuild I need to buy look like the same as on this caliper. I have a 4 runner sr5. I'm having trouble with rotors warping constantly and my mechanic says my rotors will always do that unless I get drilled and slotted rotors for it. I take it in tomorrow to have another mechanic take a look at it. Seems to me that the calipers are sticking just not completely and have been for a while.

@ddd228

8 жыл бұрын

His advice is BS. Diagnose the caliper dragging problem. They overheat and warp. IF they are too thin,they will warp and chatter/vibrate.

@psdaengr911

6 жыл бұрын

Your brakes are overheating because of how you drive or how your old mechanic wasn't properly servicing your brakes. Chronic overheating warps rotors. Drilling doesn't prevent warping. Professional racing drivers cars don't use drilled rotors, street posers' do. Poser mechanics install them. If your car didn't come new with drilled/slotted rotors (a high end car $$$$ appearance mod), don't waste your money on them. Spend it on a good mechanic.

Hello Eric i am from Asia I have a Honda civic eh9. It has all four disk break. service break functioning well buT rear left side parking break not tide well few machanic repair it but broblem is not sloved. Paking cable not return. Plese send me a advice? (Try to understand my English )

thanks eric for sharing your very good video, helped me a lot

Yo E ... is caliper grease okay instead of silicon and no lube on the back side of the clip guides needed ?

What about sanding the glaze off the pads?

One of the videos that makes me glad I don't live near the ocean or driving on salted roads, along with very little humidity all year. Some good things about Phoenix.

Thanks for a great video Eric .Very helpful !