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It's harder than people think to sharpen a knife. Thanks for sharing pal.

@RathwulvenBushcraft

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the lovely comment, glad if it helps. :) Feel free to share that in case you know folks who could also benefit from that

Die Mousepad Methode, aber sehr schön erklärt und die Idee mit den Gewebetuch is super. Danke!

Great video sir I been looking at a bark river Aurora but sharpening seemed out of league until I saw this micro mesh product thank you for your informative video by far the best convex sharpening video I have ever seen

The important thing about sharpening convex on a stone is that the apex is all you're actually sharpening. Unless you're sharpening a Scandi and you're being very diligent about keeping your blade flat on a stone, all freehand edges are convex to some degree because nobody is perfect at holding a steady angle. You just need to know the apex angle of the convex and then sharpen on a stone the same as you would any other edge.

This absolutely hands down the best advice and instructional video for sharpening a convex grind! I have an S1X and an A1X that I have no problems sharpening with stroping via the green and white compound. But my Bark River came with issues with their convex grind. I absolutely cannot get it as sharp as the Fallknivens. I even tried to re-grind and reprofile the tip of the Aurora to sharpen it to the level of A1X and the S1X. It didn't work especially with the tip and point profile of the Aurora. So I finally broke out the micro mesh and going through the meshes up to 4000 grit, it is now razor sharp. It was sharp before with stroping slicing paper with ease but with the micro mesh it is sharper and much easier to attain. I only did 20 passes per side per grit up to 4000. I stopped at 4000 because I don't want a chrome shiny finish being it looked too ghetto like what the DBK knuckleheads enjoy.

@RathwulvenBushcraft

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment and the feedback, I appreciate it. I am happy to hear that your Aurora is performing well again. :)

Amazing presentation and a very very useful trick, especially for beginners. I plan on buying my first bushcraft knife and I want it to be convex (I know everybody is saying "if you're a beginner you should buy a scandi, much easier to sharpen, etc.") but a convex gives a more powerful and stress resistant edge and I want that. But I was so afraid of sharpening, not to wreck the blade (Fallkniven F1x is not that cheap) but now all my fears were thrown out the window. And you end up paying a lot less money. Thank you. Immensely appreciate your video. Cheers.

@RathwulvenBushcraft

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment - you are welcome, I am glad if videos like that help. And you are right on the convex grind, I love it. But it takes quite a lot of practise to get a nice finish with a whetstone, hence the workaround. :)

Excellent video! Thank you.

Thank you for this. It’s very helpful

Very good. Will try this method out, thanks for posting! 👍🏼👍🏼

@RathwulvenBushcraft

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment, Matt - I can only recommend that method. The pads can be purchased via the link in the info box, there is a link to (almost) the same set.

Excellent video thanks for sharing

@RathwulvenBushcraft

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks, very much appreciate the comment :-)

Another great tip.

@RathwulvenBushcraft

5 жыл бұрын

Great to hear, thanks you enjoyed it. :) Feel free to share that in case you know folks who could also benefit from that

Nice Tutorial mate 🙂👍👍👍

@RathwulvenBushcraft

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks :)

Supergoede tip!! Heb gelijk een setje bij Thomann besteld 👍🏻👍🏻

@RathwulvenBushcraft

3 жыл бұрын

Mooi - laat maar weten hoe het bevalt. :)

Thank you, great Info

@RathwulvenBushcraft

2 жыл бұрын

:) Thanks

lee valley tools sells them

Can it be sharpened with a circular motions of the stone on a still blade? Just like how you sharpening an axe?

I had the opposite, the tip and belly of the knife always got sharp easily, but the straight part of the edge just magically seemed to take only material from the shoulder of the edge, not the true edge or micro bevel itself when using the ray mears method. (With that I just mean, the typical strokes you see in stone sharpening.)

Where can i buy this pads. ? Very good explaainons

Interessant! Ik heb de set vandaag met de post ontvangen. Vraag: Welke van de 7 gebruik je? Waarmee begin je? Of gebruik je ze allemaal achter elkaar? Gaat mij om de Fallkinven F1.

@RathwulvenBushcraft

4 жыл бұрын

Hey Igor - sorry voor de vertraging, ik heb je reactie gemist. Ik begin normaal gesproken gewoon met de grofste, de 1200, 2400 en ga het mes dan met leer of een van de fijnere maten afwerken. Hangt een beetje van de situatie af, maar door naar de kleinere gradaties werken doet je mes iig geen kwaad. :)

I am lazy and like to have consistent same edge if need to re sharpen so I just use my lansky sharpening system to do convex.

Handig setje Ralf! Welke gradatie in korrel hanteer jij normaal voor het aanscherpen van je messen?

@RathwulvenBushcraft

5 жыл бұрын

Dat hangt er van af wat je ermee gaat doen - sowieso ga ik thuis tot aan de 12000, puur omdat. Maar met 1200 a 2400 a 4000 kom je al een heel eind hoor :)

Do you do both sides?

@RathwulvenBushcraft

3 ай бұрын

Certainly so - otherwise you won´t get a proper edge.

Werkt dit ook voor flat grind naar convex?

@RathwulvenBushcraft

4 жыл бұрын

In principe wel, het vraagt alleen wat extra tijd.

It's the same as sandpaper only a higher grit than you were using.

@RathwulvenBushcraft

4 жыл бұрын

Nope - as explained in the video, sand paper substracts material by scratching it off with a grain whereas micro mesh does so by planing with a grid. The latter not only gives a better result but also spares the blade. You can give it a try an then check your bevel underneath a 60x - 120x pocket microscope, the pattern you see is an entirely different one.

@hanikaram3351

4 жыл бұрын

@@RathwulvenBushcraft you are correct the micro lasts much longer then the sand paper due to the fact that on paper surface the particles are fused on one non perforated surface so the contact for fusing is minimal but the mesh is a perforated screen that can hold much more crystals and fusing them with more of an a singular plane , Thank you

@clitaiulian4497

3 жыл бұрын

As I see, these soft pads are the regular ones and, according to their documentation, work only on soft metals (besides other materials like wood, etc.). The MX and MXD ones are recommended for metals and hard metals. VG10@59 HRC doesn't seem soft but seems to be working with these regular ones according to your experience. Does this mean I should buy these only without the MX/MXD ones? Thank you again for this awesome tip.

Schön erklärt, wobei mein Englisch wohl eher bescheiden ist. Wenn ich richtig gesehen habe, gibt es die Pads nicht in Deutschland. Weil das wäre ja evtl auch was für mein Jaktkit. LG Thom ✌🏼

@RathwulvenBushcraft

5 жыл бұрын

Moinsen mein Bester. Die Pads gibts auch in Deutschland, schau mal bei einem Baumarkt bzw. mal bei Thomann - dort gibts zumindest die viereckigen. :-)

@thomwaldabenteuer

5 жыл бұрын

@@RathwulvenBushcraft Danke mein Lieber ✌🏼

@KingSezam

3 жыл бұрын

Ebay:)