Why can't all the DIY videos be so clear, edited , and to the point . Well done!

Thank you so much for posting this video, you are my hero. I just bought a 1985 Tartan 28 Sailboat and as I was pulling up to my mooring, the engine wouldn't shift out of reverse. I thought the transmission had gone out, but realized the problem was cable related. While watching this video, I learned that the outside shell of the cable should not move and found that the little ribbed clamp had come loose. An easy fix that would have sidelined my boat for weeks and cost hundreds of dollars had I hired a mechanic. I actually tried to hire a local marine mechanic, but was told that they were booked out for weeks. Thank goodness as now I know much more about my boat, it cost nothing and I'm back on the water one day later. Have a great summer.

@spelunkerd

Жыл бұрын

Thank you kindly!

That is a Clevis pin. It’s a spring clip, no bending required. Good video for us diy guys.

Great instruction.... thank you... New to diesel and first sailing machine...

I don't have a boat but always interesting to see something new.

Awesome video. Great information and photo detail. Many thanks, this is mega useful.

Good that you mentioned proper way to stop engine is via the stop cable. Turning the key off with engine running will kill the alternator.

You are a life saver! I recently bought a used sailboat and yesterday discovered that both of these cables were not working. Looking forward to attempting the diy fix. Thanks!

@cainrudy8316

2 жыл бұрын

i guess im randomly asking but does anybody know a method to log back into an Instagram account? I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any tips you can give me

@jettlucas8871

2 жыл бұрын

@Cain Rudy Instablaster =)

@cainrudy8316

2 жыл бұрын

@Jett Lucas I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@cainrudy8316

2 жыл бұрын

@Jett Lucas it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thank you so much you saved my account :D

@jettlucas8871

2 жыл бұрын

@Cain Rudy Glad I could help :)

Good info in here, thanks mate.

great video and clear instructions.Thanks.

Thank you mate for this great videos! That is really helpings for me.

Your boat looks to be in pretty good shape Dave now with all of the PM's that you've done to her. Those cables didn't look too bad to replace and good find on seeing that the cable was probably routed incorrectly from the previous owner. Nice work as always :)

@spelunkerd

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks, Terry!

@Wickfordharbor

6 жыл бұрын

stuzman

excellent information... ty so much!

Brilliant .............love your accent!

We refer to such tracer lines as a Messenger.

I am doing this very soon

Thank you, your videios are soo informative and the photography is centered on the parts being worked on, very well done. How would you drain a fuel tank thats been sitting for 7 years? I(m pretty sure there is plenty of water and goo in it. Thanks again.

@spelunkerd

6 жыл бұрын

Good question! I'd find a way to siphon the fuel and water out completely, then start again with fresh. If you're worried about debris in the tank then you might be able to remove the fuel level sensor and have a look with a borescope at the bottom of the tank. However I'd probably just siphon all I could and replace with new. Don't forget to purge the fuel hoses and supply lines, and change the filters, too. To siphon fuel you could use the same kind of device I used to siphon oil in the Yanmar oil change video, it can be hand operated or venturi operated if you have access to an air compressor. For engines that have been sitting a long time it would be wise to change the oil and oil filter as well. If you have glow plugs it wouldn't be unreasonable to pull them to squirt a few cc's of oil into each cylinder to reduce the wear with startup. Whenever I anticipate a difficult start I close the salt water intake and open the decompression valves, then spin the engine a few times with fuel off so the engine gets primed with oil before it revs up. After it starts remember to open the sea cock. At some point you'll want to change the coolant but some would do that after you get it running the first time. Just make sure the coolant is all the way to the top of the rad cap, not just the reservoir. Also when you do get the engine running, make sure you have good salt water flow. Dry rot happens to impellers, too, so you'll want to change the impeller sooner rather than later. Don't be surprised if you have a sticking injector with a misfire. Rust never sleeps. Also have a look at your seals, they tend to dry and rot when left for so long. When you get it running, watch carefully to be sure the thermostat opens appropriately when it reaches operating temp. A sticking thermostat would be pretty common in a vehicle left sitting for so long.

@rosestjohn9456

6 жыл бұрын

Thanks, you've given me hope, and useful information. I really do enjoy your videos, keep'em coming.

Interesting

Great video. What is the number of the replacement cable you are installing? I like the explanations you give on how these things work. I just broke the fuel regulator cable on my boat as I was heading out for a race. Good timing as I was close to the slip. I hope to get a new one on before the next race this weekend. Duke

@spelunkerd

5 жыл бұрын

Ha ha, we were just racing last night, too. As usual, rain forecast but sailing was excellent and we stayed dry. I can't give you a replacement cable part number because the part was generic, supplied by my local chandlery. Length of cable is very dependent on how the boat is laid out, so even identical boats may have slightly different lengths. I had the old one in hand when I went to the shop so they wouldn't have any difficulty finding the correct size. Even so, the first one off the shelf was not close enough to the correct length so I had to get a custom length shipped. Once you see how these cables work, you can operate the engine directly if you need to. Make sure you get the cable routing correct around the exhaust hardware. Good luck!

I have to do exactly this on my boat and this video will be my go to! I'm super confronted by this job since I'm new to DIY fixing engines. COuld you put a link of the Tele-flex cable you used?

@spelunkerd

4 ай бұрын

I went to my local chandler who supplied the correct length cable. If you remove the old cable and measure it in the shop there won't be any confusion regarding what you need, but it did take a week for parts to arrive. So, your boat will be disabled during that time unless you reinstall the old cable while waiting.

Many Thumbs Up for a great video. I have a Yanmar 2GM20 on a recently acquired sailboat. The throttle operates in reverse of normal sailboat throttles! IS there some way to just reverse one of the ends to get the throttle to speed up forward vice the other way around?

@spelunkerd

5 жыл бұрын

That's an interesting question, I don't know. You might be able to thread the cable around the barrel of the handle the opposite way to reverse the direction. Check the manual, it might offer the option to reverse the direction. Now that I think of it, planes accelerate when you pull back on the throttle, but my boat accelerates when the lever is pushed forward. You might also look at how the cable attaches to the control on the motor to see if there is the option to bring the cable in from the opposite direction. On the other hand, after a while you may just get used to which way it goes, the worst case scenario would be to second guess when you're pulling into the dock, ha ha.

@wildebeest3

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the reasoned reply. At the moment, I will just make do...@@spelunkerd

Can you show how you got the nut for the control bow all the way back from the front of the engine? You always have great content.

@spelunkerd

2 жыл бұрын

Gee, I'm not sure what you mean exactly. One of the nuts had to be slid by hand all the way to the other end, just by reaching with my hand and sliding it along. If you have poor access you could tie it to a string and pull it, or push it with a boat hook, but I didn't need to do that. Good luck!

The engine I have is the 2G20F engine on a Dehler Optima 101 sailboat. I assume the cables are the same .

@spelunkerd

5 жыл бұрын

Because cable length is specific to the boat rather than the engine, and because different boats will have different control hardware in the cockpit, you want to match what you need to your circumstance. My control pivot in the cockpit is not made by Yanmar so there is variance there as well. These cables are generic and my dealer had little trouble matching new to old, although I made it easy for him by bringing in the old cable. Even so, he had to order the exact length which took a few weeks to arrive. Good luck!

In a future video, could you touch on how to adjust the tension of the throttle cable for a Yanmar diesel. When underway, my cable or throttle adjustment falls back to a lower RPM setting than what I would want. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

@spelunkerd

3 жыл бұрын

Ha ha ha, mine does too, especially at low rpm when I'm creeping through the marina. Very annoying and distracting. No issue at high rpm, and the old cable didn't do that at all. My boat lever does not have any adjustment for that, so we are left with work around options like tightening the holding clamps a little more. As the cable corrodes I expect it to improve, but I am reluctant to add any friction modifier to increase mechanical resistance because I don't want to overshoot. If you come across any solution, please return and share it here!

@victoriastreet8919

Жыл бұрын

​@@spelunkerd Unlike most small diesels that spin the governor on the camshaft the Yanmar GM/HM series has the governor weights on the much faster crankshaft; at full speed the reaction force on the speed control cable gets quite high. Most operator control units have a friction adjustment but even so many have to resort to using a cable clamp on the cable itself somewhere to add friction. The spring on the connector is used for damping to allow the lever to increase over the setting and at idle position the spring should be compressed about 3mm. That should get some light grease too. The kill cable core should be pulled out every few years for coating with grease as it is stranded steel like bicycle cable. A trick is to solder a spot on the strands just where you plan to cut the end so it can be pushed back into the sheath without snagging.

Ooow no heat sheild and not even a strip of high temp plastic to keep the cable away, perhaps there is a missing part. I find it odd that there isn't a solinoid controlled fuel valve, but if it's reliable then i suppose there was no reason to add cost. House electricians sometimes use the old mains cable to pull through the new. I remember tricks/info from odd usage, that's why i thought about the mains cables. I remember pulling a magneto flywheel off a taper shaft on my frends moped, 3 bits of string were tied to the flywheel (equal distance apart), i pulled all three while my mate hit the taper shaft with a mallet, there was a "clunk" and it was loose :-D That was a trick from my dad, he was a pit/mine engineer, he passed away 30 years ago but the image of the strings and "shaking the taper" stayed in memory :-D.

@spelunkerd

7 жыл бұрын

One day I made the mistake of accidentally bumping the ignition switch off while motoring, and to my surprise the engine continued chugging along, seemingly without even noticing. I turned it back on as soon as I noticed, but after a minute there was no evident problem. Of course none of the warning lights will work without electric power, and I believe even the voltage regulator might be thrown off by a spinning alternator when ignition is off. Overcharging might be a problem if the alternator isn't getting proper control, depending on how these are wired. In any case, as you say it reveals how curiously independent and simple these engines are. The main functions of fuel and oil delivery, water cooling, compression and timing are entirely mechanical. Thanks for watching!

I'm adding the choke or kill cable to my yanmar 3GM30F. The cable I ordered dosen't have any nuts for the end of the cable to tighten into that notch on the engine. Would you mind sending me some more info on what I need or shooting me a pic please! Thank you! My cable end can be cut to any length so I'm curious on how I'm supposed to secure it to this bracket on the engine.

@spelunkerd

Жыл бұрын

Gee, I haven't seen this video in years. I got the Yanmar OEM cable so I wouldn't have to fiddle with it. You see good views of that cable starting at 6:13, going all the way to the end. More views of my cable won't help you cut your generic cable to size. If you have your old OEM cable you might be able to cut that end off the old cable and secure it at the end of the new cable. Or you could reuse your old sheath, although I would not do that. If you're good with your hands you could drill an axial hole through a bolt to thread the inner cable through it. With a generic system you don't necessarily need to do that. I would do something similar to the way a bicycle brake cable is held secure, with a U shaped strap to hold the sheath, and a tie down screw to hold the inner cable in exactly the correct position. By the way, that cable cuts fuel delivery, and air is never metered in a diesel so they don't use the word choke in the diesel world.

Curious, what is purpose of the spring on the regulator cable? Why is there a need to allow that brass block to have some play(due to the spring)?

@spelunkerd

2 жыл бұрын

That's a good question, I haven't really thought about it. On reflection, I'm guessing it is so the home position of the cable is 'on', it can't be accidentally shifted off when the boat shifts or if it gets bumped somehow. When you pull on the knob, you hold it 'off' until engine quits. Then when you let go, you want the spring to automatically pull the regulator lever back to home position (on). That way when you go to start it again, you shouldn't need to hold the kill switch in.

My Stop cable broke in the exact stop. Why do they make the end plastic ???

@spelunkerd

2 жыл бұрын

That's what I thought, too. I guess it is easier to replace a cable than to have to redo the boat fiberglass.

Would you know how to stop the Yanmar sb 8?

@spelunkerd

3 жыл бұрын

No, but all of these small diesel engines are similar. One kill switch for shutting off fuel delivery, independent of the electrical key. A second 'regulator' control for increasing fuel delivery, which will cause a faster rpm. Follow the cables back from the cockpit control to the engine and you'll quickly answer your question. It makes security in these engines problematic, since you don't need spark and therefore can't use electrical keys to prevent unauthorized starting.

@lionelcormier3260

3 жыл бұрын

@@spelunkerd When I purchased the boat from a broker (owner not available) there was a pull button with électrical wires unconected to engine.Pulling throtle back past idle the rpm increases.I rigged a cable with a u-turn to pull forward on the throtle at the engin but I must pull very hard and I'm afraid to pull it off.

@spelunkerd

3 жыл бұрын

@@lionelcormier3260 Sounds complicated. I would go back to basics, decide what the engine needs, and design your controls to keep bends and turns to a minimum. You can easily order custom length cables, and you can lubricate the cable with silicone spray. For a fancy cable lubricator, go to a local motorcycle shop or look online for "motorcycle cable lube tool". Those little things get the lube down into the cable shield. You spray til lube fluid comes out the other end.

@lionelcormier3260

3 жыл бұрын

@@spelunkerd Great!Thanks for the info.

I'm having a lot of trouble getting the screw that holds the kill cable lose. There seems to be a bolt below the screw but I cannot get that screw to turn. Is there some trick to getting that screw to turn? Thanks

@spelunkerd

6 жыл бұрын

Do you mean at 8:23 of the video? If it is similar to the photo, remember you need to loosen the locking nut off first before going at that phillips head screw. That locking nut holds the screw firmly to prevent it from backing out with vibration from the engine. It puts pressure on the threads so it can't back out. When a screw won't back out for me, I try the usual approach of spraying penetrating oil (PB blaster works well) on it overnight. Then I come back the next morning and try heat. In my shop I have oxyacetylene but propane will work if that's all you have. MAPP gas and oxygen are better than propane but more expensive. Possibly the last owner put locktite onto the threads in which case heat is the answer. The heat/shrink cycle is often enough to shock corrosion loose between the dissimilar metals. For a screw, if I can hold it against a solid part I sometimes use a manual impact driver, but in this case I think the base may not be stable enough when on the boat. I don't remember how it goes together but if you were to cut the cable you might be able to spin the whole part off and take it home to secure the base more effectively in a vice. Phillips head screws are notorious for stripping out, in which case you could either use a hacksaw to cut a groove in the head, or weld a nut on the end of the screw to get a better grip. Alternatively vice grips will sometimes work. I have a set of bolt extractor sockets that have left hand cutting threads. You hammer them onto the screw head and spin them out. The real difficulty happens when you break the screw head off. In that case it may be easier to just replace the part, but welding a nut onto the remaining screw might work, and 'easy outs' are designed to thread into a hole drilled into the exact center of the screw (not easy with a small screw). It's possible that the previous owner or mechanic crossthreaded the screw. That part may be inexpensive, you have to weigh how much your time and effort is worth. In the meantime you can still use the boat, I had my stop cable disconnected for six weeks while waiting for a new cable. Good luck!

You skipped over the hard part for me. How do you order the right part for your needs? There seem to be so many options for ends that my head spins.

@AMaverickBrother

Жыл бұрын

My assumption is that I should just wait till the end of a season and take the old stuff off and take it to the store and ask them to help me... But I really prefer to be able to ensure I have the matching part before I take the old one off if I can help it.

@spelunkerd

Жыл бұрын

@@AMaverickBrother That's exactly what I did, I removed the entire line, leaving a tracer line in place, and took both cables in hand to the chandlery. The length is critical for your boat, usually a custom part so get the length correct. Fortunately there was a guy with experience who knew exactly what I needed. Once measured, I put it back on to allow me to sail while waiting for parts. After you learn how yours comes apart, it doesn't take much time to do it again.

@AMaverickBrother

Жыл бұрын

@@spelunkerd Ok then I guess that is the way to do this... I guess maybe next season end I'll do that... Right now I have a hilarious problem in that my throttle will back off over time. If you set things to 2200 RPM it'll seem like its holding but you'll look down a half an hour or more later and find that you're only at 1800 over time very slowly. Thankfully on my boat pushing down increases RPMs. So I have a water bottle hanging from the throttle lever via a zip tie that has just the right amount of water in it to hold things steady. This solution was come up with on a passage from Kennewick, WA to Newport, OR and now years later I'm still rocking the water bottle solution. But I think that fix is starting to bubble to the top of the priority list.

@larryboyd2806

Ай бұрын

@@AMaverickBrother ... an expert suggested putting a small clamp on the cable to add friction... I havent tried it yet but it is supposed to help the problem

@AMaverickBrother

Ай бұрын

@@larryboyd2806 I read that and even found the clamp for sale at a chandlery... Then I dug into the boat and found one of those clamps on my morse cable but it's actually bitten thorough the outer jacket a lil as its cracked there and its not able to do the job any more. I really should replace my cables soon but I think I'll do it this winter. I don't really want to take it apart when it's working. But it's a bit ghetto that I have to hang a water bottle with just the right amount of water in it to hold the RPMs stable. It was a quick fix in during a passage that's become more permanent than I'd like to admit. ;)