How to Replace Front Strut 2007-2015 Mazda CX-9
Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары
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New Strut & Spring Assembly from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASTS01273
This video shows you how to install new reliable TRQ struts in your 2007-2015 Mazda CX-9. TRQ Struts are made to fit your vehicle exactly, just like the original part. Struts can wear out as early as 50,000 miles. You should inspect them regularly for leaks or wear. Save time, money, and hassle by replacing an entire strut assembly.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2007 Mazda CX-9
2008 Mazda CX-9
2009 Mazda CX-9
2010 Mazda CX-9
2011 Mazda CX-9
2012 Mazda CX-9
2013 Mazda CX-9
2014 Mazda CX-9
2015 Mazda CX-9
Tools you will need:
• Phillips Head Screwdriver 1aau.to/obbv/1AXAA00013
• Pocket Screwdriver
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/oNb/1AXAA00020
• 19mm Wrench 1aau.to/oQV/1AXAA00010
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/oaXf/1AXAA00017
• 14mm Socket 1aau.to/obfN/1AXAA00015
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/o9i/1AXAA00043
• 21mm Socket 1aau.to/o9i/1AXAA00043
• 1/2 Inch Impact Gun 1aau.to/opL/1AXAA00252
• Ratchet 1aau.to/obqI/1AXAA00016
• Socket Driver
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/obfN/1AXAA00015
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oauP/1AXAA00044
• Block of Wood
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oVQ/1AXAA00068
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/oPe/1AXAA00065
• Wheel Chocks
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
Пікірлер: 8
√ Watch the Video √ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ Do it Yourself √ Save Money
Great video! I really appreciate the time and effort putting this together. two items to consider: 1. the need to have an alignment, once all four wheels suspension is complete. 2. you may want to show more of how you lined up the flange/knuckle bolt holes. Emphasize the importance of getting the flange/knuckle bottom bolt in place, using a pry bar to line up the flange hole to the knuckle bolt hole. I had 1 1/2 inches between the two holes. Wasn't sure exactly why this happened. I remeasured the old strut with the new one, and they were exactly the same. I moved the strut all around with no luck lining up the flange and knuckle holes. after 3 hours of trying to figure out how to line up the holes, I read on a different site that stated to push down on the sway bar(i think that is what it is called), and use a round pry bar to line up the holes.
Awesome video. Very helpful. Thanks
I replaced mine with TRQ units as they were clunking and worn. Now I have squeaks esp from right front. I sprayed silicone lubricant thru up top and its stop...terribly annoying. Any ideas? I followed video, all bolts torqued as mentioned. Unsure what the deal is...
Great video, but why did you put the old rusty rotor back on at the end?
At the 1:42 mark, what is the part number for the panel clip?
I did all of these steps correctly on both sides. I am experiencing a vibration when turning, any reason for that?
How much "load" - just raise the knuckle a bit or lift the car?