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@MsJbraswell1

3 жыл бұрын

Correction, meant that the tension clips built into the pad should rest on the caliper assembly.

Overall great instructional video straight to the point and very clear and concise. I will say as others have noted the pads were reinstalled incorrectly, for this brake set on this vehicle. The brake pad springs indeed stay on the outside and are not meant to be shoved on the inside, inbetween the pad and the hardware. This is evident if you go back and watch the initial removal. Look closely and you can see they were installed properly last time... with the spring pads on the outside It's a common mistake and I've learned my lessons having owned an outback.

Please update the video to include a note about correct placement of the brake pad return spring. As others have noted it should brace against the outside of the caliper frame, and not tucked inside. I have to redo one side of my brake job after following this video.

In 10+ years of doing brakes on ALL makes and models I have never seen ANYONE open the system just to retract the pistons. The bleeder screws are usually stuck or rust/welded, the piston bottoming out and caliper hanging below the master cylinder reservoir level is a guarantee to lose fluid while taking in the air. So now you turned a 30 min brake job into a 1.5 hours of soak the bleeder screw, hope it doesnt brake off, bleed the brakes when you are done.

@1AAuto

3 жыл бұрын

+zamiryi Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.

That was the best, clearest instruction I’ve ever watched. Thanks!

@1AAuto

2 жыл бұрын

+Marty Barry Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

Nicely detailed. I do have some lingering questions regarding placement of the anti-rattle (return) spring as noted elsewhere in the comments. On a 2015 Legacy the spring caught on shim hardware when installed as shown. A very minor modification to the spring fixed that but I would have rather done it right the first time.

Incredible and detailed video of how to do brakes

Couple of questions: Why replace the rotors at 65k? Also, how was your brake fluid container full after you bled the fluid out when you expanded the pistons? In addition, at the time you bled the fluid out, why didn't you have the cap off of the reservoir to allow a smooth flow and no air bubbles?

@michaelpark5681

2 жыл бұрын

I would like to know the answer to these questions as well

As a previous commenter said, @14:50 the spring is indeed installed incorrectly. The end of the spring does NOT go under the tab on the pad. It goes on the outside against tab on the metal clip. This is how the pad was installed before you took it apart. It's also how the springs on my Outback looked when I did the brakes just now. You're not the only one to make this mistake. Several other videos out there do the same thing. Not sure if there are any safety ramifications, but putting the spring under the pad is definitely incorrect. Otherwise, great video.

@1AAuto

3 жыл бұрын

+Steve Gould Thanks for the feedback!

@jasonrodgers8780

3 жыл бұрын

Agree! However, was so difficult to get pads to stay with the return spring in the correct/on-top position (non OEM pads with their non OEM metal backings) that I had to put the caliper bracket on THEN put the pads in and HOLD them in while I put the caliper on. Also, on passenger front I incorrectly put the return spring tucked in like video gal shows. Leaving for now....will be a good experiment 😄

@ericmoss8344

Жыл бұрын

Correct... it took me a minute to figure it out as the spring in my opinion is designed to push the pad away f/the rotors so they don't 'ride' the rotors over time. Plus if you put the spring in how she showed it, the pads I used wouldn't fit as they are a snug fit w/the spring outside the metal hardware. If that makes sense... not the easiest brake job I've ever done in 35 yrs of wrenching, but doable if you know how it goes back together. :)

This is a really fabulous video. Thank you for posting it.

I'm so grateful for these videos. You just made my day....

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

+Oliver Durrant Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com

You are awesome! Great sense of humor as well. Thank you

Wow this video is amazing. So much preventative maintenance knowledge thank you.

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

+James Giant Thank you so much for the feedback!

Great instructional video, thank you!!!!!

very thorough, excellent step by step, just like reading shop manual.

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

+Aleksey Rozentuler Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com

I love your professional performanceand thank you for sharing 👍

At 14:50, I believe that spring is installed incorrectly. That part on the brake pad is a return spring, not an anti rattle clip. In the beginning of the video, where you removed the stock brake pads, notice how the clips were installed differently from how you guys installed it in the end.

@g.r.visentin9079

4 жыл бұрын

You're right on - I saw that right away, and I just did a 2016 Impreza with a similar spring. It has a little bump at the end that should ride on top of the extended metal on the side of the clip - as clearly shown on the old ones when removed (stop the video and look)

@wadehouk3823

3 жыл бұрын

I noticed the same thing with that spring. And if you put it where they said, it will catch in grooves in that hardware and not allow the pad to slide correctly.

@chriskunsak3963

Жыл бұрын

Glad I read the comments because I was thinking the same thing!!

Great instructional video

omg, I have been doing it so wrong this whole time! thanks for this vid!

Best video quality I've seen yet for brake job including the angles shot for everyone to see also very thorough :-)

@1AAuto

5 жыл бұрын

+Anthony Guess Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com

@Timetravel1111

4 жыл бұрын

Anthony Guess yes that’s true it wa every easy to see all of what she is doing.

Great video thanks nice tips 👍🏻

I have seen other videos were they put a lubricant between shims and upper/lower side part of pads. What is your thought about that ? Tx

Would this video be the same for the front brakes on a 2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R Limited?

The mechanic mentioned a tool for checking for moisture in the brake lines. Can you add it to your list of links above?

Very Well Done.

Excellent video! Anxiously waiting for the video showing REAR-brake replacement for the 2015 and above, Outbacks. Keep up the good work!

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

+Peter Bush Thanks for the positive feedback! The production studio is working hard on new videos!

@_P0tat07_

9 ай бұрын

@@1AAutobc. H -❤))AaaA

As always a great video !! When I do the brake job I never open the bleeding screw,is this necessary? I always unscrew the reservoir cap not the bleeding screw.

@jnepute

3 жыл бұрын

That is how I have always done it as well. I think as long as the reservoir cap is unscrewed, you should be fine. I have never had a problem. I guess technically, you run the risk of damaging the master cylinder by forcing fluid back into the reservoir, but I have ever had an issue. Just compress the pistons slowly with the reservoir cap unscrewed and you should be fine.

very detailed job 👏🏽 thank you very much

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

+Edgar Navarro Thanks for checking us out!

Excellent commentary! Surprised you didn't use anti-sieze on the caliper bolts & lug nuts tho. Is there a reason?

Nice video, when I do mine, I always get a hardware kit 6or7 bucks. Didn't let the caliper hang, many do nice job.

@1AAuto

5 жыл бұрын

+WILL C. Thank you for your positive feedback! We are happy we could help.

The tension clips on the pads are not supposed to rest on the outside of the carrier assembly. Not inside the clips as was done on re-assembly. I initially made the same mistake on one side but saw the proper way when removing the other side. Had to redo that side but caught it and fixed it before taking the car for a test drive. Something easy to do if not really looking closely when taking apart. Also wasn't sure if it was mentioned but the carrier assembly torque I believe is 85 ft lbs and caliper bolts where listed at 25 ft lbs (for those that do it to spec).

you need silicone paste on the caliper pin, not brake grease

Great Video! Very informative and helpful. But DO NOT OPEN THE BLEADER PLUG! If you do, you will let air into the brake lines and they will need to be fully Bled. I confirmed this by calling my local Subaru Dealer. I did this and had to pay a mechanic to bleed all 4 of my brakes because there was air in the lines. It cost me $200.

@maxtp948

2 жыл бұрын

Wow he ripped you of big time. Bleeding the brakes is a 20 min job and should not cost $200

@edwardchung3576

2 жыл бұрын

Agreed. I have never seen this done and was wondering why she did that.

@NinoInTheComments

Жыл бұрын

Some fluid and pumping the brake for 200 bananas 😭😭😭

Thumbs up 👍 very good tips and you give me confidence to do This myself!

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

+Jody Hakala Thanks for checking us out!

@ 12:50 where you use caliper grease, can you use permetex copper anti-sieze instead?

Thank you for the video! You helped us change my brakes today. Before we started my boyfriend said we should be watching the playoffs today instead of doing this, and then later on in the video she says “I’m not sure about you, but I’d rather be inside watching football” 🤣

How about outback with ABS? This looks like a regular break replacement without ABS. Can u show also how to replace with ABS. Thanks

Thank you !! can you also do rear brake job ?

@1AAuto

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Adam

Superb video!!

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

+Brian Kathenes Thank you for your feedback!

Please explain why you open the bleeder screw when retracting the pistons and why that would be necessary on cars with an abs system. I’ve never seen anyone open the bleeder screw when pushing the pistons back. No matter what make or model or if the car has abs or not.

@David-ie7zn

Жыл бұрын

I wonder about that too, I open the master reservoir cap so the brake fluid would remain in the system without air

Where can I get that ratcheting piston compressor? Thanks Also what happens if you compress the pistons without breaking open the bleeder screw. I see videos that don't do that step.

Great Video, Do need to hear the 1st set of bolts torque number. Got the 2nd set and lug specs, not the 1st set.

Aslo why do you have to crack the bleeder when pushing in the pads on abs systems? Is there a vavle that could be damaged?

Well, looks like I’m taking it to the shop

Can you accomplish the same result by removing the fill cap from the brake fluid reservoir instead of opening the bleeder?

In addition to the many comments below outlining the incorrect spring placement, do not crack your bleeder screw unless you have a helper and want to bleed all four brakes; just crack the cap on the reservoir and compress the pistons slowly. Also, do yourself a favor and do not hand new pads or rotors with oily or greasy gloves, unless you want everyone to hear you braking.

Great job. Very nicely detailed instruction. Thank you.

Outstanding video. Excellent explanation and demonstration, professional workwomanship, shop, tools, procedures. Well done. And, thank you for no music!

1A Auto always creates some of the best, and very detailed, maintenance videos. Thank you! I just bought a 2015 Outback. Are the two 8x125 bolts really needed to separate/dismount the rotor? With other vehicles, tapping the rotor in opposing lug nut pattern with a rubber mallet until it broke free worked just fine.

@tkinney80

3 жыл бұрын

I've always done the same but the last F150 I had that had the original rotors on from 2006 I had to heat, beat with a sledge and a long piece of steel off for about an hour to get both sides. I honestly didn't think I was going to get them off. I can only imagine in the rust belt the trouble they might have.

Where can i get that torque wrench that is on the video @ 16:01 and not what is posting in your description? Thanks

Why did you replace the rotor? Was it warped?

No need to open the bleeder screw open,will not do damage to the ABS.Snap On now sells a special socket for getting to the upper caliper bracket bolt,part number is BTCS1.Put the torque wrench away,not needed too.Replace the hardware,some brake pad sets come with the hardware,one is powerstop

Hello thank you so much - I have 2010 Legacy 2.5i - is it pretty much the same? i'd like to buy a front and rear brake and rotor job. just want to make sure you ship the correct parts - thanks again!

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

+Scott W. You will want to search our site for parts that are listed for your vehicle only. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com

No need to apply anti-seize on the bolts?

I’m looking for your brake pads info 2015 Subaru Outback

I didn’t know ... a lot of theses things. Cleaner spray, and clean a brush 🧽 Rotors coating, I didn’t know about the two bolt 🕳 holes 🕳 that push the rotors out! Bungee trick!

Why do you dont measure the runout of break disc?

I know it's been said now that I've read the comments, but a mate of mine was trying to use this as their first brake job and the 'anti-rattle spring' is not a thing on these cars. The metal spring presses on the outside of the caliper bracket. How you describe it you'd literally have to take the bracket off every time you wanted to change the brakes.

I best most mechanic 🧰 shops do NOT do the proper steps or the reasons why it’s done the way you explained!!

If just one pad was installed with the clip on the opposite side that it should be (attached clip spring thingy went back in on top instead of bottom. Do I need to take wheel back off, take caliper back off, and reverse it? Or will it be ok if i leave it? The wear indicator and also a spring tension-er are on the same side of each pad but it was having a hard time fitting in the downward position so it's in the up position. I'll take it all back apart if it's going to cause a safety issue. Thanks anyone for any help with this dilemma !!! I did bleed the brakes on all four wheels due to ABS. I also bedded the brakes with 30 stops of 30mph to 5mph per manufacturer's recommendation.

@1AAuto

3 жыл бұрын

+Harpoon_Bakery Thanks for checking us out! You probably should correct the pad that is backwards (upside down) as that may cause a braking issue and uneven wear of the pad, rotor, and possibly even the caliper.

why not keep the caliper closed & backfill the reservoir?

When you install the rattle clip is it midway inside the calipers or completely through the calipers? 14:50

@1AAuto

2 жыл бұрын

+White Rice Thanks for watching! Looks like we go about halfway in the video. Once everything is put back together the spring will not slide out of the caliper, so as long as it is in position it really won't matter!

@WiitRiic

2 жыл бұрын

@@1AAuto thank you!

you guys doing a rear brake job with the electronic brake system ?

@1AAuto

5 жыл бұрын

+James Jaikissoon We currently do not have an auto repair video that covers this particular repair. We will keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com

@mathewmartinez7487

5 жыл бұрын

@@1AAuto I hope you guys end up making the rear video too.

@JerkFace62

5 жыл бұрын

ok so we did the job on the legacy. fronts are exactly like this video. the rear is different but it's easy to do. you just need the tools to do it. the special tools are the 7mm Hex wrench/tool piece thingy and Lisle 28600 Disc Brake Piston Tool and your regular ratchet. it's easy

@ericcurley2190

5 жыл бұрын

​@@1AAuto Can you comment on the real brakes in short? I noticed mine didn't have the bolts to remove the caliper from the bracket -- like in the beginning of this video. The bolts were more like, rounded studs with no facets to wrench.

@SwiftDesire

5 жыл бұрын

@@1AAuto Please make this happen!!

What's the conversion from foot pounds to ugga duggas?

Question why do you have to bleed the brakes when you decompress it. Is it because you added Brake fluid as the brakes where being used ?

@1AAuto

5 жыл бұрын

+Amir Gladstone You want to get rid of any air pockets in the brake lines.

@scottfirman

4 жыл бұрын

Its best to drainoff some brake fluid from the master brake cylinder BEFORE retracting the pistons back in. NEVER open the bleeder to the atmosphere like that unless you plan on bleeding air from the system. Simply openening the cap on the master cylinder is enough to relieve pressure on the pistons. Replace the hardware EVERYTIME you do a brake job. Heat damages the hardware over time.

Tech married? If my wife could do brake work like this woman has we'd be doing a lot more fishing on Saturday's ") Awesome work.

Every time I have put on brakes (or had my mechanic) put on NON Subaru pads/rotors my brakes squeal profusely for thousands of miles. Why is that? As soon as I put factory brakes back on the squealing stopped.

My hats off to the tech ! I would allow her to perform open heart surgery on me no joke ! Lol

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback! We appreciate it! +Daniel Hernandez

I don't like the look of the install of the anti rattle spring on the new brake, it was different on the one that came off. OK it is called a "return spring " and it goes on the outside of the the pad clip. It must pull the pad away from the rotor when no brakes are applied. The one that came off was against the outside of the caliper frame and I think she hooked it inside the slot of the thin steel piece that lays in the caliper, which is right ? That spring is a return spring. "Be sure to install so that the pad return spring faces the input side of the direction of brake rotor rotation" " Correctly install the pad return spring to the supporting surface of the pad clip as shown in the figure."

Is it the same process for the rear ones ?

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

It is basically the same process if you have rotors on the rear. Thanks for the inquiry. +Daniel Hernandez

@josedhernandez7777

4 жыл бұрын

@@1AAuto is there any plans to make a rear brake pad replacement on a 2017 legacy ?

@TherealEggiejr

4 жыл бұрын

Rears are electronic

@josedhernandez7777

4 жыл бұрын

@@TherealEggiejr Is there a different process to follow?

@BryanBalak

4 жыл бұрын

@@josedhernandez7777 it's basically the same process, with the exception of the electronic parking brake on the driver's side. There are a few KZread videos on how to remove it from the caliper and "unwind" it to allow you to expand the pistons.

oh my, did you hang that caliper by the brake line!!! Then twist it?! Ow...

Very annoying that the instruction for the spring on the pad install is wrong, had to do it all over again, why don't u add info to the video informing of this?!

@1AAuto

2 жыл бұрын

+Allmoge Thanks for the feedback! We'll pass this info along to our production team.

19.9 foot pounds? My torque wrench certainly doesn't have that type of precision. I'm going to have to go with 20 foot pounds. Hope I don't snap the bolt.

Do not let the caliper hang unsupported

Pro Tip: apply a thin coat of white lithium grease to the front and back of each brake pad before installation. You'll never have squeaky brakes again! You're welcome 😜

Informative only in clarifying the components before I tackle this. Other than that, technically correct but very sloppy.

Dont worry too much about the negative comments.. Even Eric O gets critisized by the armchair experts.

@1AAuto

3 жыл бұрын

+Barry Thomas Thanks for the feedback!

I loved your video until you touched the pads with your greasy gloves,

re the bleeder screw being opened immediately, she is right: kzread.info/dash/bejne/o6ej3NSNiMmun8Y.htmlsi=x9VGabESKH0O3lEH

You doing the brake pads wrong .. look How the old was

I find it nearly impossible to insert the pads into the caliper with that clip. It’s simply not long enough to just slide them in easily like every video makes it seem. Here’s me angrily and sweatily squeezing the top of the pad with the clip up hard enough to allow the bottom to slide in, while also trying to pry the retaining clip thing out of the way. Truly the worst part of the job.

You don't need to open the bleed on an ABS system. You're making extra work adding complexity and introducing additional failure points. Redo the video...

Probably 99 out of 100 service workers don't open the blenders, just saying.

@1AAuto

4 жыл бұрын

+Andre Campbell Thanks for the feedback!

I’ve had both but bad luck with there parts do not purchase parts from this company. I had my ball joints break and cause more damage but better parts then the ones they sell

No torque spec 🙄

How is this a good video when you've made so many rookie mistakes?

Great Video! Very informative and helpful. But DO NOT OPEN THE BLEADER PLUG! If you do, you will let air into the brake lines and they will need to be fully Bled. I confirmed this by calling my local Subaru Dealer. I did this and had to pay a mechanic to bleed all 4 of my brakes because there was air in the lines. It cost me $200.

@ericmoss8344

Жыл бұрын

I've never opened the bleeder until I was ready to bleed the brakes... never heard the issue of opening the bleeder for ABS brakes. Hmmm