√ Watch the Video √ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ Do it Yourself √ Save Money

Great video very informative. And thanks for the hanging hook idea I’ve changed a million sets of break pads and having the caliper fall and break the line really screws up a 20 minute job👍👍

Perfect timing on this video... I'm getting ready to replace the passenger side CV on my sons Jeep.

@keairamarkham989

7 ай бұрын

I have to do mine on the drivers side. Unfortunately I don’t have an area to work on it so i have to take it to a shop 🤦🏼‍♀️

My goodness, the amount of surface rust on everything. I understand, 20 year vehicle. But there are also ways to prevent that from happening. Doesn't cost much either. Glad to see you replaced the wheel hub as well. Kinda dumb not to. Realistic video, thanks.

Perfect video. Huge help on my suspension rebuild! thanks for uploading!

The washer was supposed to be inwards 😐

Big remark! - for the folks w/o impact systems - the 36mm main hub nut - needs to be loosen before even taking off the wheel, which means on the ground and via access hole through the wheel otherwise you can forget taking it off. Additionally, no need removing the ABS sensor, totally redundant, also remember that the 12 point hub bolts can be a total mess, make sure you spray them way in advance and watch for rusty 12 points - they can skip and you're done. Plus if you purchase cheaper hub, watch for the replacement bolts, they may be, or rather will be lower than original proof load strength, please reuse old ones if you can, if not go purchase high strength bolts separately, Good work, and good luck with the AxLs!!!

Good Video.... One point to consider. You mentioned 25 ft-lb as the torque for fastening the caliper to the sliders. I just put on rebuilt calipers on my 1999 Jeep GC; they came from the rebuild plant with those bolts torqued to *precisely* 60 ft-lb. At Grade 10.9, these bolts are strong enough to stand that torque; their tightness makes no difference in the actual operation of the slider -- but it does affect the likelihood of them coming loose. I'd suggest going with the torque I measured from the Rebuild Plant. Also, if you wrap the threads with some teflon pipe tape, you won't have them "freezing" up -- even with the heavier torque; and, as a bonus, the pipe tape lasts years longer than anti-seize compound. And, while I'm being picky, how about we NOT beat on the Bearing/Hub Assembly with a hammer? Five (5) minutes with a grinder and the largest "cheap" cold chisel you can find and you can taper the tip to look more like a "wood chisel." With that tool, and some relatively light taps of a hammer, you can "split" the bearing away from the bracket that holds it. It does take about five minutes or so; but when you are all done, you've pulled the bearing without doing any damage to it or the car.... Oh, you are discarding the bearing anyway? Well, if that is the case, then forget about removing the cotter key, castellated keeper, washer, nut, and washer; just separate the bearing from the housing and pull the bearing/hub assembly AND the axle/CV Joint all as one unit. Now, you can take it to your work bench and separate whatever parts you need with tools to hand and in comfort. And, if you are truly replacing everything -- including nuts, washers, et cetera, then the whole shebang can be discarded without having to take it apart at all...

Good video as usual! Thanks.

22:39 really 25 ft-lbs (32 Nm), my manual says that 32 Nm is for screwing on Teves clamps, and Akebono is 72 Nm (53 ft-lbs)

Gracias 🤙🏼

When i go to put in the passenger side cv axle it goes in almost all the way but stops about an inch or 2 early with the gear in where the hub goes any ideas why it stops early? I've checked it with the old part, and it looks the exact same.

What if the wheel hub assembly separates from lug plate and wheel hub is stuck in place

Nice video I actually really like this channel I’m just wondering I’m kinda new here lol but why don’t you use power tools in the beginning?

your videos always show the drivers side install but on the passengers side my cv axle will not go all the way in i need about another half inch so my hub will go on but it acts like there is something blocking it from going all the way in. is it possible a pin or something dropped down and is stopping me from getting this in where i need it.

Does this include a 04 jeep grand cherokee limited 4.7 v8 4 wheel drive or is any changes I need to do? I have a lot drinding going on

19:30 anti seize compound? One video said blue loctite. ??

Well what was the purpose of changing did he say lol

Perflecti explained

are this videos made in Mass or Nh lol

Why jeep changed their design after 2004 is beyond me, what scam.