For me driving the outer bearing in to a depth of 5/8 inch or 16mm allowed the axle shaft to be fully inserted into the bearing when I put the arm back on. Any less will result in the shaft not occupying the full width of the bearing .This measurement will also give maximum spacing between the inner and outer bearings for optimum stability of the arm. How far the arm slides onto the shaft is governed by the torsion bar. It's worth noting that the end seal will also have to be driven in to allow the anti roll bar end plates to insert/locate correctly into the the arm, I drove mine down until they GENTLY met the edge of the bearing. CarAndMechanical could you please pin this vital information where people can see it Thank you for a great instructional video which is so helpful, The Haynes Manual said that the job was beyond the scope of the manual and didn't help at all. Cheers, John ...

spot on video ...perfectly explained mate now got the confidence to attack it myself cheers

Awesome video. I enjoyed watching this. Thanks for the upload !

informative but missing a few crucial parts. Firstly the removal of the torsion bars are the single most hardest part of the whole job which you didn't cover. You need some powerful gear i.e big blow torch, sledge hammer and a solid steel drift with some good penetration oil to move them. (unless you have an air chisel or a 20kg slide hammer) Also by the state of those bearing 99% the axle pins will have deep grooves in them and will need re machining if you plan to do more than a 1000 miles. if i had any kind of play like that, for the sake of £200 delivered you can have a fully refurbished one. My advice, save up and by a refurbed one.

@karlbatty8136

2 жыл бұрын

Very good observation x

@oluftheexplorer9476

Жыл бұрын

This is why one simply replaces the entire rear axle.

@tonyvobe1886

Жыл бұрын

Good video. But you failed to mention to take measurements or make marks first before removing the toothed torsion bar.

I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best.

Brilliant video. It gave me the confidence to do the job. However, and there is always a 'however', my torsion bars were totally seized in their housings and would not come off like the ones in your video. I had to find a six foot long by one and a quarter inch solid bar which I slid over the subframe to be able me to hit the torsion bar housing from behind. I had to really swing a 7lb sledge hammer at full swing to move the bar out of its splines. If in doubt, hit it harder! The torsion bar eventually came out of the subframe leaving the bar still attached to the arm. I repeated the process with a vice on the ground and a car ramp to support my bar in the right position. I then hit the end of the bar with the sledge hammer and after about ten minutes real hard hammering I managed to get the bar out of the swinging arm. It was safer to use the bar to avoid damaging the brake pipe holder bracket. I then cleaned just the rust off the splines with a thread file and ended up with a torsion bar that would slide in and out of its housing. Using the six foot long bar meant I was hammering away from the bodywork and the arm, making the risk of damaging the car or arm less. Yes, I really did swing the hammer hard! Re-assembly was easy and as 'per the video', although I find the inner bearing hard to get in and used a bearing puller kit. Thank you for a really good video.

I want to thanak you for this perfectly explained video. I change rear axle on my Peugeot 206 sw with this video. All the best. 👌👍💪

Great video, thanks for putting it online. I've got this very problem, I can easily manage that now I've seen how to do it. Thanks.

Spot on video! A lot easier than i thought! Thanks a lot!

Well explained especially for DIY mechanics having limited tooling,thankyou.

Brilliant! Explains how to do this very easily. A life saver. Not a difficult as people say by the look?

Absolutely brilliant video everything pinpointed perfectly on how to do it your self. Thank you.

Watched this, a Great how to . Thanks

Wonderful tutorial! Just changed bearings on my Peugeot yesterday. However you really need a blow torch to move some of those rusty screws and as some people mentioned here before, you may really need a big hammer, blow torch and a lot of anger to make that red torsion bar moving. I almost gave up on the whole job having rear end already taken apart :-D

Muchas gracias. Excelente video. Probablemente el mejor que he visto debido a la explicación detallada. Se ve tan fácil sabiéndolo hacer. Gracias

Brilliant, well explained and delivered.

Good video and after watching it I felt confident enough to tackle the job myself, on hinde sight I wished I never, although it's a good video, theirs a lot missing, main part Ben the removal of the torsion bar.

Excellent video. I need to do this on my 206. I got all the tools and bearings but I only had 4 hours to do it and I did not want to take risks. I use the car 7 days a week. The right side is worst than the left. The right wheel already has some camber. I will give it a go next week.

excellent job my man!,clearly put and boring bits sped up nicely...top job:0)

Thank you for taking time to do this video very helpful indeed

Brilliantly explained buddy, and much appreciated 🙂

You have saved my day with this lesson thank you so much God bless you in Jesus mighty name amen

great help using this video. help me loads. keep up the great work.

Cheers mate big help took some stress of my mind anyway

Perfectly done video tutorial ! Thank you !

superb video and very well explained thanks

Best Vid i found about this! Thanks very much and greets from Deutschland

God bless you, my friend I've been looking for this info a lot, I already subscribed to your channel.

Awesome step by step guide😎

Excellent video, that will make my life easier, thanks.

A very good video, I would suggest using a powerful LED floodlight under the wing, esp. when it's sunny, as it's hard to see the details in the shade (your camera is automatically turning the exposure down) My o/s ARB bracket had snapped off completely near the 13mm bolt, as so the wheel was rubbing on the inside of the wheel arch! (rough roads)

thanks, helped massively

amazing video!thank you my friend!

you pick a lovely day to do it

You my friend are awesome, thanks for this video

GREAT SIMPLE VID VERY WELL DONE NOW I HAVE TO DO MY WIFES CAR????? THANK YOU AGAIN

great help, made the job easy to do with your vedio, thanks

Thank you! Very well explained, that I'm starting to feel like a Pro.

Amazing video....well done

thanks soo much for this video, iv subed as its great quality

brilliant video and a very good explained.....thank you

Far too many experts on here. This lad did OK well done

Excellent vid, thanks.

Thanks for you video, exelente me ayudo muchisimo

Very nice video, thank you!

Thank u ,thank u, thank u for this video. Here in Albania having this problem it means spending a lot of many . Every one says that it is a very dificult think to do. They only sugest to change all the trailing arm. This page is the best!!! I will sugest it to all my friends.Thank u again

@CarAndMechanical

6 жыл бұрын

It can be a pain but it also can be done, hope this helps you get things sorted.

@rudolfbeqiri4646

6 жыл бұрын

I forgot to ask do u have a name of the goos brand that makes this part?

will do cheers mate thank you good video.

you literally saved my life

@roderickmiller3847

6 жыл бұрын

Dear Sir. I have just watched your video on repairing trailing arm bearings, on a Peugeot. My question is, I have a Citron C5 With the same problem, is the procedure the same? Any information would be appreciated. Rod M

Cheers mate,thank you

I need to say, its perfect this tutorial, u saved my life! Ty so much.

@jamescroasdale8639

5 жыл бұрын

Heco171 ww

Thax for the nice vid

very good job!!!

This is only half of the job. yes the bearing are knackered but also the pin where bearing slides onto will be worn also and needs replacing

@larsk7708

3 жыл бұрын

whats that for part then ?

@JohnSmith-vz8pc

3 жыл бұрын

@@larsk7708 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PEUGEOT-206-98-07-REAR-AXLE-BEAM-TRAILING-ARM-REPAIR-KIT-SHAFT-BEARINGS-RA4/332257481670?hash=item4d5c16d3c6:g:I2QAAOSwa0xfDcL9

Fan bloody tastic!!! About as crystal clear and simple to understand, follow and implement as a Haynes manual is none of these things🤣

Did this job last week. No garage would touch it. A recon axle was £200 so bought the bearings and got stuck in. It didn't go to plan. Took about 12 hrs to do. The main problem was that my bearings hadn't collapsed. They had seized then tightened onto the shaft. Car cornered great as it basically had no rear suspension. It took hours of heating hammering using pullers etc to get one axle off the other one was not as bad and came off with less sweat. The stupid washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt idea is an absolute nightmare at the end of the torsion bars. One bolt never came out in the end. Never mind all done now but at one point I almost gave up and just set the car on fire !!

@richardhume2811

5 жыл бұрын

One thing to say is that knocking out and putting the new bearings in was the easiest part of the job :)

@CarAndMechanical

5 жыл бұрын

Firstly - congrats I think this job comes in different flavours of anger looking through various comments. Quite a few have said they've beaten 7 shades of the thing to get the torsion bar out and when we worked on this is was just a little tricky, it sounds like you got the full FFS treatment. I hope you treated yourself to a nice beer or 4 after, also must be rewarding to of gotten it done.

Thanks grate video =D

Muito bem explicado! Está de parabéns! Me ajudou muito! 👍

Great video and something I've got to have a go at. Out of interest, how would you go about doing both sides at the same time? The car I'm working squeaks all the time from both sides?

Wow nice video ;)

Very helpful. Distance between lower arm and body before bush repair was 220mm but after it was 190mm, both sides. Will this be problematic, e.g. with four passengers?

Hi, great video. Do you know of any resources for removing disk brakes in the same manner you removed drum brake? I'd prefer not having to dismantle all the various parts of the brake and just take the whole thing off in one piece similar to how you did with drum brake. Do you know if that's possible?

Big video 👍

Hey mate, mine started to knocking in the rear passenger side but it is only when i hit big potholes. How long did you have it since it was really bad? Im not sure if this has to be done right now or can wait till some months. Thanks!

Absolutely dab tutorial, this is my next job so this video is fab, thanks .. I'm a little confused by having to measure the distance of the bar,I think you said it was 220 mm or something,is that because it fits on splines or something? It makes me think that I could get this bit wrong , I'll research anyway but this is a fab video thanks

@CarAndMechanical

5 жыл бұрын

Basically you want the height the same after as before if that makes sense. So the measurement before lets you know where it was.

Super gemacht

nice video, have to change the bearings on my pug 206. Is it possible to remove/delete the middle stabilisator bar? will it have big impact on driving experience, cornering etc? I have seen used/repaired rear beams with removed middle stabilizator bar. How about swapping the needle bearings with self lubricating bronze or plastic bushes? especially the outside bearing, where the axle is usually also damaged.

Great video , wondering if it's the same as the citroen xsara n1 ?

what size drift do you need to tap the outer bearing in i see you used a 38mm socket, whats the outside diameter informative vid btw

Perfect 👍👍👍

🇨🇱📻👂🎧🎶👋🏻🦕🦖 Gracias Tengo el mismo problema ojalá pueda encontrar esos rodamientos Saludos desde chile No entiendo nada de tu idioma pero esta muy claro el video

J'ai réparer mon essieux arr suivant votre démonstration merci

A good video, however I do a fair number of these in my job as a mechanic and if the bearings have been worn for ages very often the tube that the bearings fit over will be worn as well, sometimes just fitting bearings will not cure the problem unfortunately. but worth the try and as I said a good video.

@CarAndMechanical

8 жыл бұрын

+gstree I agree, sometimes it's triage though and this was a close one, but it mainly just needed to be back on the road even if OTR was 10-20k

Truly excellent DIY video. Now how does the brake backing plate come off the axel (10:27)? Just undoing the 4 Torx bolts or did you use a 3-arm puller? Cheers.

@CarAndMechanical

6 жыл бұрын

Sorry for the delay - yep it's undo and pop off...or pry if unlucky job. I think I noted in the video we ended up doing the opposite side but end of the day one side comes off.

Which is easier, replacing the axle beam or axle bearings independantly?

very good video, thank you take it you measured the distance just after unbolting the shock bolt, just before sliding it off the torsion bar?

@CarAndMechanical

7 жыл бұрын

+Clive Abbott yes that's correct, you should be fine as long as all variables are the same as such, but before is better.

The washer in a groove held in by a torx bolt so is it mandatory to get washer off to get torsion bar removed?

so the negative camber of the wheel its caused buy the trailing arm bears ?? or the whole axle. ???

How much time did you spent on this? btw great video :)

Fantastic, I just discovered the same problem on my 306 estate and the first thing I read online was some doom merchant insisting it wasn't a home job but needed a refurbished axle. Then I found your video and it's plain to see I will be able to do it myself. Thanks for your steady filming and clear advise, I've subscribed!

@garethjones8047

3 жыл бұрын

And did you get it done yourself?

@gravelyvoltas8897

3 жыл бұрын

@@garethjones8047 You know what ,as in the comment below by hease1, the whole kit and caboodle was knackered, so I did follow the "doom"(aka perfectly right!) merchant's advice... refurbed axle fitted. Now if only I could get rid of the horrendous clunk from the front end, on rough tracks. I've fitted everything from new shocks to new engine mounts and all the swively bits inbetween...

@garethjones8047

3 жыл бұрын

@@gravelyvoltas8897 I've owned a 306 dturbo for the past 18 years. Mine has done 221k now and I still use it daily. I'm a hgv mechanic so only really maintain my own cars and friends and family etc. The only front end clocks I've ever had from mine are when the anti roll bar link arms are worn. I have done track rod ends and ball joints a few times during my ownership, also the front wishbone rear P bushes seem to be a weak spot. But it's been an amazing car. Are you sure a little piece of coil spring hasn't broken off at the bottom? I've seen this a few times on various cars where the broken piece sits in the cup and just rattles around.

@garethjones8047

3 жыл бұрын

Just realised you said you fitted new shocks so you would have spotted that.

@gravelyvoltas8897

3 жыл бұрын

@@garethjones8047 thanks for your advice. Me agricultural mechanic... Swapped the coil springs onto new shocks 5 months ago, new balljoints, TRE's, lower wishbones, one recon (long) driveshaft, ARB bushes. I now know the LHS driveshaft is on its way out ,but I've still not solved the cause of the hellish loud bang from down low on RHS front as I accelerate up our rough as f**k Hill track. Unless the cheap wishbone's rear bush is so weak it's like a worn out one... ! Any experience with worn subframe bushes Gareth? They SEEM firm..

hi there im just about to replace my bushing but on my peugeot I have rear break calipers not drums are they as easy to take off as drums ?

Good one

People say that replacing the bearings instead of the whole beam is more difficult and that you can find that the trailing arm bearing housing can also be worn. So is this true? as your video makes it look pretty straight forward.

@CarAndMechanical

6 жыл бұрын

Sorry for the delay coming back to you - it's a toss up of effort vs cost and how good the replacement unit is. Probably easier to replace the unit but might cost more and roll of the dice with the life left in it.

400 quid to replace the rear beam is a very good quote, especially as an Imaxle beam runs about 200 just for the part.

@CarAndMechanical

Жыл бұрын

Bare in mind inflation that seems more reasonable now, but it was also only a cheap car.

@BillCarrIpswich

Жыл бұрын

@@CarAndMechanical I think they were still a similar price years back. 15 notes if you're willing to deal with the aggro is great, but 400 for the peace of mind both sides are done and no grazed knuckles is great too, esp. since this is the only big bill you're ever going to get from this car.

doing mine in the next week or two

when would you want to undertake this task? what symptoms would suggest this is needed?

Nice job . But are you sure that the main axle foley is intact ?? Imean . . . The backbone of this PSA rear axle is a big hollow tube and two smaller ones fitted to one side of that . How can you make sure its not bended or ....

Hey again just a quik qusten. Will it make sounds if it's have snaped if it's a think?

how critical is that distance of 220 mm between trail arm and body? In my case it was 190mm . But noted that my damper life was very much reduced, with the dampers becoming 'frozen'. Could the 30mm difference be responsible?

hey ..great work...but I have a question..is this repairing way works for the second side (the left side) too. thx :-)

@CarAndMechanical

6 жыл бұрын

Hi, thanks and sorry for the delay in coming back to you. It should be the same for both sides - as seen in the video we didn't get the torsion bar out of the side we were working on so had to get it out from the other side.

Ive put new bearing on mine but the trail arm stil moves up down lik springy and when driving is knocking the otherside is solid prob ceased on dos this mean the axel is worn be on repair ive hammerd it on as far as poss but stil moves

Great job! I have a question... what test can I do to be sure that's my problem? the rear of the car sounds sometimes, but there is no wheel movement as in the video.

The shaft the trailing arm goes over must be replaced as well. When the bearings looks like that, the shaft will have grooves that causes the new bearings to fail again in no time.

@roberthorwat6747

3 жыл бұрын

Yes and I've had a look to see if there is a vid that shows you how to replace 'em. No can find. How do you get them out? The rate I go through drop links I think just replacing the bearings every now and then quite satisfactory for unauthorised meddlers with crap tools, such as I am.

It looked a bit daunting for me, but after watching this i think i might get the wife to do it.

@roberthorwat6747

3 жыл бұрын

Chortle🤣

Its same replacement parts for peugeot 206 2.0 HDI 66 kw 2001 ?

Got a Peugeot 306 with a squeaking rear-axle at the left side.It squeaks since a week now and I hope the bearings are dry and not worn.For now I've haven't checked if there's any slack in the arm. Is it possible to drill a hole into the arm and place a grease nipple between both bearings so I can pump some grease in?And do you think it will help?

@CarAndMechanical

7 жыл бұрын

+Jeroen Louter for the effort you'd need to do half the steps in the video anyway as you could get metal shavings in the arm which would cause more fun. If your that far might as well do the bearings, is there any play?

Going to try this on a Citroen Xsara tomorrow. N/S RHD. Will let you know how I get on.

@CarAndMechanical

6 жыл бұрын

+Mark Gardner Gardner all the best - hope it goes well

@markgardner8786

6 жыл бұрын

CarAndMechanical Sadly, not going at all well.Torsion bar has adjustable screw on opposite side with two indents that requires a specialist tool to remove. Spent over five hours on this today with no luck. Will try and adapt a socket tomorrow to release the opposite side but unsure as to how I can pull or push the torsion bar out. Thanks Mark

@markgardner8786

6 жыл бұрын

Absolute disaster at the moment. Another 5 hours and still unable to free the torsion bar. Will try to fabricate a tool tomorrow.

@CarAndMechanical

6 жыл бұрын

Sounds like this is the design where one end on the torsion bar is held in with a bolt, and the other is a nut on the outside. The male thread this nut goes onto is actually a double-ended adjuster to set the position of the trailing arm side-to-side, and I think the part with the two indents you're talking about is actually the end cap on where the torsion bar goes into the body of the rear beam. Now, I think these are actually replaceable, but as long as you've got the nut off the bit of thread sticking out the torsion bar, and the bolt out the end of the torsion bar where it goes into the swingarm, there shouldn't actually be anything holding the torsion bar in place. While that cap on the "static" end might stop you getting the torsion bar out in that direction, you shouldn't need to really, it should come out the swingarm side if it's going to move. If it really won't shift at all, you may have to pull off the swingarm with the torsion bar still in place, which shoudl work as long as it isn't seized into the splines at both ends. Unsure if this helps and what stages of this you might of tried?

Good lad

I try to remove, but the trailer won't come off. I don't know why.

Hi, I am in the middle of doing this job but I am stuck because the driver side trailing arm will not come free from lower roll bar , I have removed the torq bolt and washer which was very very rusted in. I expected the trailing arm to come free from the splines of the roll bar but it won't. I notice in this video that the roll bar comes off with the trailing arm but I think mine is still connected at the other end . either way with the torq bolt and washer out the arm should hammer free from the roll bar shouldn't it ? Any comments appreciated Trevor

@sean12393

8 жыл бұрын

Go and buy yourself a 12lb sledgehammer, seriously

Just out of interest, what state was the beam pin in? Got this job to do for next test and it's been said that if the pin is in bad condition that'll need pressing out with a 60 tonne press? Don't mind the arm bearings but don't fancy the hassle of pressing pins out etc!

@CarAndMechanical

7 жыл бұрын

Yea we had fun on some bits so cut,hammered em off/out and gave the shaft a clean up. This was a case of bringing new life to an otherwise scrap car giving it extra life without spending to enough the car would run for another 10 years without that issue recurring. Funny you mention a press though, they do seem to be cheap enough should you need one and I am considering getting one.