How to Remove Supports From Delicate 3D Printed Miniatures

Removing supports from 3D printed models can be a pain, especially if they're smaller and more delicate models. In this video, I'll be covering off the two methods I use to avoid breakages.
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Пікірлер: 26

  • @connorkeefe
    @connorkeefe Жыл бұрын

    That tip around 3:00 about leaving the tiny support bits on during curing has been crazy helpful! Tried it out on a few D&D monsters and any leftover supports just rub off.

  • @GrayScalpMiniatures

    @GrayScalpMiniatures

    Жыл бұрын

    Glad I could help. Only found it out because I was super lazy one time and did an awful clean up job, and then after curing I was really impressed how easy they just rubbed away.

  • @DigitalOrigami
    @DigitalOrigami8 ай бұрын

    Thanks for this. I’m just getting started with 3d printing and I am having issues with exactly this, so I can’t wait to try this out.

  • @cyberkitten01
    @cyberkitten016 ай бұрын

    Thanks for this video! It was exactly what I was looking for :)

  • @TeeVeesGreatest
    @TeeVeesGreatest7 ай бұрын

    Great! thanks for the hot water tip, will try it now on my SW Watto figure!

  • @wli2718
    @wli27182 күн бұрын

    i also suggest dipping in IPA first to remove excess resin, as liquid resin is very slippery and cause you to accidentally drop the model or slip when you try to cut or peel.

  • @123owly
    @123owly Жыл бұрын

    Supports for me are just a matter of where you're happy to spend extra time: 1. You can support models properly yourself (extra work, but saves time on removing supports and polishing) 2. You can quickly rip supports off straight after printing and if you rip off a sword or something, just flue it back together (no heating, no extra work with supports, but needs extra polishing/post processing. 3. Heating and carefully cutting off supports (extra work, but polishing becomes way easier and no need to glue any ripped parts). Just see which method fits better in your workflow. If you like extra time on your PC - go with the first. Don't have space for hot water/heat gun? Go with the second 3. Love that sweet sweet supports removal ASMR - go with the third one.

  • @GrayScalpMiniatures

    @GrayScalpMiniatures

    Жыл бұрын

    Such a good list for different people! Also, love the comment at the end about the ASMR 😂

  • @andreacook7431
    @andreacook74312 ай бұрын

    OMG! This might help me ACTUALLY get the Daleks I've been trying to print to come out!

  • @keyboardconflicts565

    @keyboardconflicts565

    Күн бұрын

    that's freakin awesome I love Dr. Who

  • @EQ2Cordanim
    @EQ2Cordanim Жыл бұрын

    Good reminder and help for newer printers - I've used the hot water for the past year or so with great success. I have to ask, though...it looks like your resin is very dry - do you cure first before doing the water trick, or is it just the video lighting playing tricks on my old eyes? 😀 The reason I ask is because I do the water BEFORE curing - seems to be much softer and pliable, making removing the heated supports much easier - just curious! Thanks, Kev

  • @GrayScalpMiniatures

    @GrayScalpMiniatures

    Жыл бұрын

    Yep I do it before curing. Think it’s more of a bad lighting issue in the room where I do my printing.

  • @emcdunna
    @emcdunna Жыл бұрын

    Does this work with fdm prints too?

  • @HotelCharliHill
    @HotelCharliHill10 ай бұрын

    I just got into 3d resin printing and after watching one single video where a guy said "i let them sit in 50'C water for under a minute" I had the presence of mind to buy a cheap electric kettle so I could just reboil that water again and again and again, and pour it into a basin with a cheap meat thermometer from the dollar store. You don't need to buy a baby bottle warmer.

  • @eserieb8014
    @eserieb8014Ай бұрын

    Could you use heat gun if you dont have a heated bottle?

  • @insectaxidermist
    @insectaxidermist Жыл бұрын

    will the hot water technique work on cured models. I purchased a fc model trend 1/35 skeleton. I'm assuming it's cured? it seems very delicate...

  • @GrayScalpMiniatures

    @GrayScalpMiniatures

    Жыл бұрын

    I can't see why it wouldn't work on cured models. It still heats up and becomes more flexible, but I would imagine it will be open to breaking. I'm guessing you've been sent something that's still on supports? That's really unusual for sellers to do thatl

  • @markwinap
    @markwinap Жыл бұрын

    hi, do you remove the supports after washing and curing the model? thanks

  • @GrayScalpMiniatures

    @GrayScalpMiniatures

    Жыл бұрын

    I always remove before curing but after washing.

  • @markwinap

    @markwinap

    Жыл бұрын

    @@GrayScalpMiniatures thanks a lot. I do have a ton of issues with craters in my mini prints

  • @arielariel-gd5yb

    @arielariel-gd5yb

    Ай бұрын

    @@GrayScalpMiniatures how to u cure after if the model is wet?

  • @arielariel-gd5yb
    @arielariel-gd5ybАй бұрын

    wait wait u first cure then u remove suppor? i always clean remove support and then curing.

  • @emal2170
    @emal2170 Жыл бұрын

    Why not put in plastic bag, then put in hot water?

  • @TrasherBiner
    @TrasherBiner9 ай бұрын

    now PLA please? Not everybody has a resin printer.

  • @Hellspawnxxx
    @Hellspawnxxx Жыл бұрын

    I don't understand why people are so concerned by a little resin contaminating water, people everyday pour detergents, bleach and loads of other chemicals down the drain. I am not saying its ok to dump a bottle down the drain, but the little residue left over on a print isn't gonna make anything worse.

  • @natzo89

    @natzo89

    Жыл бұрын

    A good way is to just do 2 alcohol baths. One first to take the bulk of the resin off, and then on a cleaner bath of alcohol to get rid of the little residues. It should be little resin remaining, which you could pour on a bottle, cure, and then dispose.