Before asking something, or for details, please read the video's description first. I explained there almost everything... Btw, at 0:30 you can see a photo of the label I found on the magnet - there's no other data / number on the whole sub driver, just only on this label. So, I have a question: is there somebody who knows the exact brand + type of this subwoofer driver? I did not found any information by these bumbers for this sub driver...

@RyxmEQ

3 жыл бұрын

Nice!

@PBasschannel

3 жыл бұрын

Btw, I just noticed that on 35 Hz in bathroom (which is next to my room) the stuff on the shelves are shaking little bit more like the furniture in my room 🙂 ...and because of this many people not beliveing that this sub have just only 60 Watts RMS 🙂

@RyxmEQ

3 жыл бұрын

@@PBasschannel DAMN

@PBasschannel

3 жыл бұрын

...and I subscribed to you, I like your music 🙂

@RyxmEQ

3 жыл бұрын

@@PBasschannel Thanks!

The original fs of the box is around 40hz,but with the tube is around 25 hz. A longer tube, gives more bass because the fs decreases

@PBasschannel

2 жыл бұрын

A longer tube because of lower tuning freq gives more bass soundrange if the enclosure is enough big, but the loudness of the bass decreases. But in this vid my main goal was to quiet down the port noise - sponge around the port's internal ending and sealing, etc..., side goal was to protect the driver from bottoming out down to 20 Hz at a power level which is just under at that level where the amp starts to highly distort - the pipe. Bonus: in my room it sounds a little bit deeper - before pipe down to like 30-32 Hz, after pipe down to like 26 - 27 Hz (depends where I am in my room / house), and sounds quieter, but not bottoms out, and the port noise is a bit hearable just only when I make burps on it - on music there is no port noise (music outperforms that noise). Just this sub bought my brother from me, I didn't have it anymore, so I wouldn't doing on it any other tweaks'n'stuff like this...

@reverbae

2 жыл бұрын

What is fs?

@luchvk

2 жыл бұрын

@@reverbae It's the free-air resonant frequency of the subwoofer driver. Fb is the resonant frequency of the subwoofer box. Fb may include the driver installed in the box but I'm not sure about that. I'm still learning.

@reverbae

2 жыл бұрын

@@luchvk ooh thanks :p

@blasgamarra404

Жыл бұрын

há apbass

As you are trying to tune it low you're reducing its loudness. I'm into same problem for my new car sub box! It's making hell lot of port noise! I'm gonna add external pvc reducers in opposite way so that it'll reduce port noise with some flares.

@PBasschannel

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah...because of the port noise of the port extension I put a sponge too around the ending - it works like a flare, and i chop off the internal edges of the port extension at it's both endings...yes, you're right, using pvc reducers is the right solition, just i showed how it is possible to make using some simple stuff what you can find at home...

im trying to model a port for a tang band w6 subwoofer, but even with a 6.5cm port the volocity is around 42m /s at max power, with a 5cm port it was 80m/s, if I get a 7.5cm port which is 3 inches then it would reduce it to about 38 m/s which is not a big improvement, I just have no idea how bad is 42 m/s port velocity , i dont wanna tune it above 33hz, i wanna enjoy a small speaker hitting low lol in to 30s and maybe like 28hz -5db

@PBasschannel

3 жыл бұрын

Hi. I have no idea how big is actually the air velocity of my sub in this video, I've not tried to re-simulate the box, because I cant find the driver's specs / TS parameters (also not measured the parameters to date), so I made this for it, because port was really noisy. When you designing a sub, I just can suggest something: design your port with as big as possible flares (internal + external too). I've read somewhere: when the air velocity is max 10 m/s = no port noise without flares, up to 17 m/s = small / acceptable port noise without flares, and with flares theoretically you have the same port noise with the double of the air velocities above. So, with huge flares 17x2 = 34 m/s is acceptable with any flare, so, the 7.5 cm port with really huge flares will be OK in my opinion. Also the port noise depends on the box's net volume too: bigger net volume = bigger peak of the air velocity too. Also, to help yourself to imagine how big is a random air velocity, you can also watch my Monacor sub video: very small net volume, big port area, tuned to 35 Hz, so max vent air velocity is around 7 m/s on max power, around 5 m/s on RMS power - you can hear that it hits hard the lows, it is relatively loud (rattles the door), and you can see that the driver barely moves, and that really lightweight plastic bag barely moves at the port. So...I hope I helped you...

@lukasHenchman

3 жыл бұрын

@@PBasschannel i tried a 3 inch port and playing around with the box more in winisd, with 3 inch diameter port, 30hz tune with like 33cm port lenght, it gets 37.5 velocity, and if i tune to 37hz then around 33.1 velocity, I don't wanna go higher than 3 inch port since it's just a 6.5 inch driver, you will loose upper bass because you will need a crazy large box, and create more dips in bass response above, if you look on newbiew forums and articles they be reccomending 1.5 to 2 inch ports for 6.5 inch subwoofers lool. and here I am with a tang band subwoofer with a 3 inch port and it's still over the recommended velocity slightly, maybe I'll try to flare it more in the box and add some polyfill to slow down the air

@PBasschannel

3 жыл бұрын

@@lukasHenchman , yes, exactly...use huge flares...in my first comment I wrote, bigger net volume = bigger air velocity, and also the tangband subs firstly have huge Xmax, and TS parameters are different from average 6.5 subs drivers, so, this is the reason that it requires relatively big port area...so...

@lukasHenchman

3 жыл бұрын

@@PBasschannel I've built abox for two subs instead of one, as it helps a lot with the low extension, without loosing much SPL in between 40-60hz, 2.5 cu ft box, with 4 inch port, removable port, 36hz base, and 32hz 29hz and 26 hz adjustable frequencies

@PBasschannel

3 жыл бұрын

@@lukasHenchman , yeah...great...also maybe I will build a telescopic port to be able to adjust the sub for music I want to listen...maybe I will do this, maybe not...

Sir like that you have actualy put a long port for that box then dosent its tuning become low I have tried on my 6 inch powerful subwoofer i put a port like that on outside then i get only responce belove 30 and when i cut it on half it kicks 40 And when i put long port th 20 hz air flow was very much & when i take it off there was no air flow on 20 hz When i calculate the box tuned frequency it was approximately 57 hz original box of a sony subwoofer 6 inch

@PBasschannel

2 жыл бұрын

The tuning frequency is there, where the cone moves the less, and also usuallly near to the point where the port air velocity is the highest. A sub what u wrote about, and small subs like mine, they're just too small to sound down to 20 Hz in a room especially in a small boxes like their stock boxes: my Logitech, and also this Koda starts to sound quiet below 30 Hz, and at some points in my house I can hear them down to like maybe 26 Hz. Also with this retuning my goal was to "protect" the subs from bottoming out at higher frequencies than 20 Hz at power levels which are the levels just before the high distortion point - not to sound down to 20 or whatever frequency, because I know that to sound down to a deep freq like 20 Hz, these subs are overall small in a listening enviroment like a room. In car is different situation: small listening enviroment = big cabin gain, so there they can sound down to 20 Hz. For example my Gladen sub: box is tuned to 22 Hz, in car it sounds down to like 18 Hz (check videos), but I've tried it out also in my room, and it sounded down to roughly the same frequencies like the Koda and Logitech, and also quieter. The answer on this: in car is not so important, but in a room and in bigger enviroments, the F(-3) frequency is important (3 dB lower like the zero dB in transfer function graph): so with a retuning like this the F(-3) goes lower by just 1-2 Hz, or stayes at the same freq, or at some subs boxes it goes even up, but also the rolloff is more flat to a point - this is why subs like ours are sounding the same just only little bit deeper in room with almost whatever tuning lower than the original...

have you measured what frqy is being put out, @ 20 hz how are we able to hear that on the monitor that can't produce 20 hz? I doubt the tiny speakers put out 35 hz but thnx for the info I get nice from my port and need to silence that

@PBasschannel

3 жыл бұрын

I mean just down to 20 Hz at every frequency it have almost not hearable port noise with or without the port extension...below 20 Hz I didnt tested it...and with port extension it have hearable sound down to 20 Hz - it is really quiet, but definetly hearable, which means that at 20 Hz it have around or below -10dB it's transfer function graph...just my main goal with the port extension was to extend the sub's power handling ability down to 20 Hz - not sound down to 20 Hz -, because it was bottoming out below like 26-27 Hz...

В начале видео я подумал что делают вагину😂😮