We are doing good on the engine rebuild thanks to your videos......but we cannot go any further until we know the background music. We must play this while working

It is good practice to pour some oil into the oil pump, to purge it so it does not start up dry, also let the sealant become tacky and avoid too much so that overflow of sealant goes into the motor

Any idea what engine Stand is being used here?

Amazing

Very good job 👍👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏

On getting oil pressure in a 1.6 16v motor that had been sitting without oil for 20 years. I filled it up with oil and cranked it for two thirty second intervals (spark plugs out, drill on front crank nut), the oil pressure would not come up. I then pulled the oil filter and ran oil through a plastic tube into the upper oil filter hole (not center) which primed the oil pump. Cranked it over again with the oil filter off and had oil gushing out the oil filter hole within seconds.

It appears the oil pump was installed dry.Is it necessary to prime the oil pump before installation?

When you installed the oil pan,all that extra gasket sealent just went inside the oil pan and can contaminate the oil.I belive too much was used in this install

I thought silicon was not to be used because it can chip away inside the engine and plug the oil pump screen...

please upload more brother

Thanks for reading my comment. I would like to learn how to remove the oil pump that has been in the engine for many years. I assume a puller is needed ? But I do not have one to try. Can anyone share any hints for getting this done ? Thank you.

wow volume leveling...

You guys seems like the guys who know a thing or two about suzuki so i have a question, i own a suzuki swift with the g13b sohc 16v 1.3L short block and ive been working on it for about 3 years now restoring the entire engine piece by piece, however, i came into an issue, i didnt see this video until it was too late, i had a tiny oil leak, like 1 drip once a week so barely worth fixing, but, i thought might as well since im cleaning everything up right? So i put on a felpro cork gasket, job done then boom, problem hit, crank but no start, ran perfectly before this, i noticed when i did the job the ckp sensor is right on the pan, is it possible the gasket being bout 2mm caused the ckp sensor to be too far in gap to read the engine turning? I took a multi meter to everything thinking it was ignition not getting spark, but everything checks out, i have continuity in all wiring and sensors sooo technically it has everything it needs to fire up! Air, fuel, spark timing and compression so im scratching my head wondering why it wont start... i heard you in the video advise against the gasket and did some research, apparently other guys had the same issue, tried the gasket n boom, crank no start... i got fed up with the situation and just took of the gasket and put on permatex synthetic, i run full synthetic everything in my engine so need the correct stuff, now im hoping after i let it cure the 24 hrs it will fire up finally, but just wanted to get your guys opinion and learn from my mistakes here D: please let me know when you can, thank you

What is the size of the front crankshaft seal? Thanks

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Was supposed to wait for the gasket maker to cure before final torque!

@jamespicking1140

Жыл бұрын

Exactly what I did after replacing the oil pump on my blitz 4x4, it literally says on the instructions of the gasket maker to leave it for at least 12 hours before final torque up.

Question. I want to replace the oil pump gasket because my radiator coolant seeping at the side off the oil pump. Where can i clamp so that that i can loosen the screw after the crankshaft gear(tooth). Can i use vise grip. Will it damage the crankshaft tooth?I dont have the luxury to detach ģearbox from the engine.

@lowrangeoffroad1

8 жыл бұрын

Are you talking about the large bolt on the front of the crankshaft. If so, you have several options. The quickest way is to use an impact wrench on the bolt. Just be sure you are going counter clockwise. You will likely have to remove the radiator to do this. If this is not a good option for you, you could bind the flywheel with a large screwdriver or pry bar at the rear of the engine and loosen the bolt. The flywheel can be accessed by removing the inspection cover located just behind the oil pan on the transmission bell housing. Hope this helps.

@closetcleaner

2 жыл бұрын

@@lowrangeoffroad1 Impact wrench did it for me. Yes, one may have to remove the radiator to work comfortably in that area of the engine.

You know...call me foolish...but I have done a few oil pan gasket in my life and transmission pan gaskets for the matter...and I never use a sealant. I have never sprung a leak. What's the point of the RTV? Is it like a fail safe for you guys?

will the g13b connecting rods fit in a g13a engine

@kylewick2818

5 жыл бұрын

Maybe... but keep in mind the g13a only has 8v so there could be clearance differences.. depending on if its short block or long block also makes a difference, check your manual for specs! Or go to rockautodotcom for the same parts i get for my g13b

Will that same(Gear oil) RTV gasket maker work on the oil pans that have the sensor?

@lowrangeoffroad1

7 жыл бұрын

I am not sure I understand the question. What sensor are you referring to?

@kylewick2818

5 жыл бұрын

Hes talking about the ckp sensor, mine is right on the pan too, but honestly i just did it anyway, ill report back n let you guys know if it worked once its cured!

@kylewick2818

5 жыл бұрын

Dont use the gasket, it causes the gap to be too far and the ecu will read no crank even though it clearly is! Mine had red high temp permatex before i did the gasket mistake and it ran perfect, so it should be ok

Don't you have to prim a new oil pump ??... I was wondering if I needed to prime my old one cause I changed my gasket... everyone is saying you gotta prim a new oil pump.. ....1.6 16v....

@lowrangeoffroad1

7 жыл бұрын

I checked with our engine builder here at Low Range. He said the way he primes the this engine is to add oil to the engine to the full mark. Fill the filter with engine oil and install it. Disable the engine by disconnecting the negative primary (small wire) at the ignition coil and then crank the engine until the oil light goes out. Once the oil light goes out the engine is primed. Reconnect the negative coil wire and start the engine. Thanks for watching and commenting.

right so he uses water to lubricate engine seals but doesnt oil them or grease the gaskets i dont quite see the logic in that

@lowrangeoffroad1

8 жыл бұрын

+imtheheretic666 I had the same question when we shot the video. But, our engine rebuilder said he feels there is still enough assembly lobe on the crankshaft to lubricate the inside of the seal. So, it certainly would not hurt to apply more oil to the inside of the seal. As to the water on the outside of the seal. It seems to work well for us. The seal slides in nicely and stays put. And on the gaskets we assume you meant gasket sealer. Suzuki says, and we agree, that this gasket does not need gasket sealer. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Is this karate kid?

DO U HAVE G13BB ENGINE?

@kylewick2818

5 жыл бұрын

I do! I have a half restored, (still working on it), genuine G13B SOHC 16v 1.3 L short block! Obviously its not a 2jz so im not going to get 3000 hp out of it but its a pretty fun lil engine to rip around in thats for sure! Especially on light weight frames! Suzuki FTW! better than ford in my opinion! Lol much easier to get at everything too!

Hello how are you sir

While these are great videos, I still think much of what you do is over kill? Just an opinion is all.