Very simple and easy to understand-as long as I can find the Queen!

Best explanation for this method I've seen! Makes complete sense...everyone doing instructional beekeeping videos should have the miniature hives! Thanks

Great video. This Pagden method is used in books and training. For the new colony (old queen, flying bees, old site) exclude nurse bees to further make the colony think it swarmed. Select capped brood frames so larvae don’t need feeding, which would burden the bees. They soon emerge, strengthen the colony, and stay with it. Spacing is just 1m so flying bees return to the new, weak hive. Later, increase the colonies (keep hives separate) or reunite with the new queen after mating and in lay.

I LOVE THIS VIDEO

That was explained so clearly, thank you

VERY SIMPLE EXPLANATION LOVE THE MODELS THANK YOU VERY MUCH ...THUMBS UP TOO...

Great video. So easy to understand. Thanks

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing it. Had been planning to use the Demaree method, but you make your method seem very straightforward. Good luck with your bees.

Thanks for the feedback Sara.....best of luck getting the hive and performing the manoeuvre!

Hi Stakenet, Thanks for that. It has been a while but I seem to remember it being between 2-5 days. the bees fly back to the original hive (as nearest the position they excited the hive from) further bolstering numbers. New bees replace them in the moved hive and thus putting almost equal bee numbers in each hive.

Well explained Stewart. Thanks

Ecellently done! Thanks for explaining this.

Thanks Kirk, much appreciated. glad it has helped....

Great job. Very detailed. Thank you.

Another way- with a spare box shake all the bees off a frame check for queen cells now add that to the new box do this 5 times now add empty frames to both boxes. Now time to add a queen excluder on the box you are keeping now add the box you just made and close up. No need to find the queen as she is in the bottom box. Now wait 24 house for the nurse bees to move up to the frames in the new box. After 24 hours put the box in its new place and add the queen and close up your new hive is born with finding the queen. This is how I do it, 2 choices now add a queen cage with the new queen in it , or you moved a swarm cell with the 5 frames so now no new queen needed as the hive made its own cheers

thanks, cant wait to try this method.

Hi Varsham, Whilst that is true if you are moving whole boxes of bees it isn't the case when you are dealing with an artificial swarm as you are making them think that they have actually swarmed. The box movements also take that into consideration as they do move position. Artificial swarming is regarded the best form of swarm control.

Very well explained.

A simple method that I use when making splits, move the old hive half the hive width to the left or right and place the new box on half the spot of the old hive, so each hive is now 50% on the original hive location, each hive then gets about 50% of the foragers, but none leave because the locale and smell are the same, then spray the new queen & split with a sugar water & lemon grass oil mix, insert the queen and your done. No bees leave you get 50% foragers & you don't have to move the hives!

Like the little model bee hives. Glad to see you back doing video. Did your hives make it through winter?

Hi James Love the little hives , really useful to explain Deffo use next year , well I hope I don't !! just thinking about it. Thanks

Thanks for the great video and a nice clear explanation. I'm wondering, under what hive condition should a newbie decide whether to set up a nuc or whether to set up a new full size hive? Thanks for your response.

Thanks again James

Personally I would go for a full hive. Having said that I would also recommend going for two hives so that you can compare hives and see how each are getting on. This is generally the accepted method of getting started but as ever in beekeeping there are different views! Best of luck either way

I'm not one that's known to to swarm prevention like I should but I'll try this method anyway. Not sure how it'll work this far into the season seeing as how the hive that I'm looking to split has a queen that is laying in both deep boxes and the bottom two supers.

Hi James thanks for the great explaination I have one question To furthur trick the bees into thinking they have swarmed you moved the hive to the other side of the new hive in original position. How much time is given before this move is performed ? Regards

Hello, can you tell me what month or week of the year to do this?

Hi Tim, let me know how you get on......enjoy it.

Hi Jannassary, Its not wrong but it is also not right. The colony in the old position (with queen) needs bees from that other colony (with QC) and hence why it remains in position. Older flying bees will help build wax in the colony with queen and hence why they are needed. The colony in the new position will have a lot of new bees and ones hatching so their numbers shouldn't be too badly affected. Moving hive away is a very big risk to the colony now with Q BUT not entirely wrong. James

Wow I am going to try this, hope it works... Tim

Hey thanks Megahs2010, really appreciated......, hope it helps. James

Could I do this using a Nuc instead of a full sized hive?

@mmb_MeAndMyBees

3 жыл бұрын

Yes... You need both Nuc boxes to be packed with Nurse Bees (shake out extra bees from already full hives elsewhere in your Apiary*.) NOT the Queen(s) ! *This is also a swarm management process in itself As all the foragers head back to the original Hive. Nurse Bees stay put as they cannot fly, or have ever been outside of the colony brood area.... Shake them always directly above the box they are going into !!! Tip:! Boxes full of Nurse Bees, accept Queen, and Queen Cell(s) unconditionally, as they are to young to have 'Worker Bee Status' aka loyalty.... So no balling of an added Queen, or tear down of added cells should happen. 😏 Some folk do Beekeeping only using Nucs. (Aka instead of a x1O Brood Box, they do x5 Nuc, on top, another x5 Nuc, with Nuc Supers +++ (Same volume & Bees, but not as heavy !) Check out Wollie Bees & his mentor called 'Foul Mouth' Beekeeper ! :🤭 Whose used Nuc like this for 64 years or so.... Both on KZread. 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝

Asafox, I am not sure I could make it much more basic I am afraid.

what to do If I want only to have only one beehive?

@cluelessbeekeeping1322

7 жыл бұрын

Sell the hive you don't want for a bunch of money, maybe even make 2 hives out of the new hive. Nucs are expensive.

@mmb_MeAndMyBees

3 жыл бұрын

Do a Walk Away Split... If your x1 Hive is strong, take several Frames of Brood including, capped, larvae, and newly laid eggs, and lots of Nurse Bees*. But NOT the Queen. In a Nuc place Brood frames in the middle. Pollen and Honey facing both outer spaces by brood, and drawn Comb in the outer space each side. Left to Right... >> Sequence : Comb/ Honey + Pollen/ Brood/ Pollen+Honey/ Comb. * Gather up lots of Bees and shake them directly into your Nuc... Not Queen !!! All the Foragers (Workers) fly back to the original Hive. The capped Brood in the Nuc will hatch to be more Nurse Bees. These choose which egg(s) will be fed Royal Jelly : to make Future Queen(s.) (replacements of former !) Let Nature take its course, the first Virgin Queen, will destroy all remaining unhatched Queen 'Cells'.** Or you could put 'Queen Cages'** around them. So they hatch without being 'killed.' 👍 .... You then can add them Mini Nucs, with a Cup of bees, to be raised, hatched, and Mated. (These become tiny Bee Colonies in their own right !!! 😆 Grow them up to be big strong Hives, or Sell them as Nucs to other Beekeepers or Wannabe Beekeepers. 😏 Hope this helps. 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝

Oh god, I'm doing this next year and am going to completely mess iitt up ::-(

In nature the old queen departs and new mother stays at the location. If You move the queen cells then You will need to move them at least 5 kilometers and NOT 5 feet!

i noticed your model was not to scale and you failed to paint it,otherwise ,well explained...