It may be interesting to point out WHY you should move fast on alpine climbs: to avoid the afternoon storms, to get back in time before the snow quality starts to decrease on the glacier which increases the chance of falling into a crevasse, ...

@sfoeric

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, which is what my instructor explained to our group during the 2016 alpine academy.

Guiding is very specific situation when one guy is a superman and another is usually a noob. When both parties are roughly equal, much of guiding techniques won't make any sense - such as one guy taking another guy on a leash, as shown in the video. Simul climbing (not short-roping) should be done on longer rope, with everyone properly tied in (not carring lenght of rope in the hand).

@paulwolf3302

3 жыл бұрын

This is a horrible video, I agree.

I aggree with J Mers and Pavlo Deshko: Short-roping is a skill that should only be used by mountain guides in my opinion. There's a reason why short-roping takes a big part of their mountain guide courses. It just takes a lot of time and experience to learn and use this technique safely. Done by the wrong (= most!) people the only thing it provides is a false and therefore dangerous feeling of safety when in reality a fall would end up with two dead mountaineers instead of "just" one. I think short-roping isn't a technique anyone should promote!

@fab1000

3 жыл бұрын

I obviously agree, simul climbing is the way to go, not short-roping

@cous

3 жыл бұрын

Many beginners will be introduced to alpinism with glacial walking- isn’t that a reasonable use case for short-roping, to protect from crevasses?

@JanSchrewe

3 жыл бұрын

@@cous Can you hold someone who weighs 80 Kg and falls in a hole? If not, then short roping is the wrong choice. Moving together with a rope between you is the right one, but short roping is different.

@deSitterUniverse

3 жыл бұрын

@@JanSchrewe How are you going to get the rope through a bolt when you are on a glacier, put an ice screw in every few meters and take them out after wards? It would take 10x as long and the screws might not help anyway if the snow is loose, you'd just end up increasing risk by being exposed on the mountain for much longer. There is no choice but to short rope it in many cases. Same on some ridges/alpine routes, sometimes there is just nowhere to loop the rope into, you either short-rope or you don't use a rope at all.

@fab1000

3 жыл бұрын

deSitterUniverse simul climbing doesn’t necessarily mean that you put protection between you but just that the rope length is bigger between climbers and MOST importantly that there is tension on the rope (opposite of having loops in hand) so if one fall it will not « shock load » the other climber and you will be able to catch the person falling before the fall create a momentum impossible to manage

I agree with all the tipps made, but highly disagree with the footage shown during the "moving together" part. This is not moving together as a team, what's shown here is a Guide/client situation. For most normal teams shortroping as shown is not an option, a running belay/simuclimbing would be the way to go.

@paulwolf3302

3 жыл бұрын

My thoughts exactly.

Not sure why when guiding using a shoulder belay that the LIVE rope is over the shoulder and not under the arm???

Thought “alpine” would include snow and ice. Constantly going from ice/snow to rock and back again and taking crampons on and of all the time is something that really slows you down. You have to learn to move on rock with crampons and on smaller patches of snow without crampons to become really fast in “real” alpine terrain. Off course parallel climbing is also important.

Hey Matt what back pack did you use on this climb. Great video keep them coming. Ps your guide give excellent tips and great English

When I was there for the 2016 alpine academy my instructor why speed was of the essence. All made sense.

Also want to mention navigation: the fastest way out and back is the one without unexpected or unintentional detours.

Simul-climbing works with 100' of rope out, and you want at least a few pieces in between you and your partner at all times. Slinging natural features, or just tossing in a cam every 50 ft. I've linked 3-4 pitches together this way, up to about 5.9. But if the climbers are only 10' apart with no gear in between, all you're doing is doubling the risk if one person falls off. The first climber in the video is holding a loop of slack in his hand, but you can't catch a 200 pound person falling with your hand. So, I didn't like this master class and would never use this technique.

@LaszloMegyeri

2 жыл бұрын

This technique is about ridges. The friction of a rock-horn provides a large amount of breaking force. On these tipes of terrain you do not expect free-fall. At more vertical pitches the technique you described is the more effective one! I am using both depending on the situation.

Is this La Frête des Charmoz? if not which ridge is this?

@mountainmaniac

3 жыл бұрын

Aiguilles Crochues?

This is a guide and client situation imho. Most of the tips are valid but as mentioned in the comments, short roping is a technique for the experienced/guides only. Im guessing Matt/Epic have to use a guide for insurance purposes when filming stuff with Arcteryx ??

Nice tips! But I have a question, why Matt is not tied in with a figure eight? Why is he clipped in with a single carabiner? I think if you are using carabiners to clip in to a rope you should use at least two of locking carabiners facing opposite ways.

@philippkummer5771

3 жыл бұрын

it's faster when you decide not to use the rope anymore, the second just clips out and the first takes it in. For the biner i think it's a 3 way locking carabiner so it won't open :)

@FlatOutFE

3 жыл бұрын

If it's a locking carabiner why oppose the gates of two carabiners? Opposing gates is for scenarios when a locking carabiner isn't available.

@jmers620

3 жыл бұрын

The DAV (German Alpine Club) found that even screwgates can unlock themself over time(see link below), they recommend using a locking biner and any other biner facing the oposite way, but to be honest that seems like a lot of faff. I personaly use a belay master or balllock www.alpenverein.de/bergsport/sicherheit/klettern/verschlusssicherheit-von-verschlusskarabinern-verschlusskarabiner_aid_31724.html

@maksymchertienkov2358

3 жыл бұрын

I won't argue, speed is speed but even a locking biner can unscrew itself, also it can cross load or you can forget to lock it. I just think it should be mentioned in the video so anyone who is new to climbing won't think that clipping with a single carabiner is ok.

@FlatOutFE

3 жыл бұрын

@@maksymchertienkov2358 do you belay with two carabiners and opposed gates?

Short roping is NOT moving together