WIN a 1-on-1 Training Chat with Me & Crimpd+ For LIFE by Logging My NEW Workouts! Download Now ▶︎ Apple: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiS // Android: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiT Hope you all enjoyed this first part! If you happen to have climbed above V5 already but feel there's something missing from your climbing repertoire, then perhaps have a look at the workouts in this video as well :-) Otherwise you can stay tuned for the next two episodes dropping over the coming weeks. Also, if you can’t see the workouts in the app yet, make sure you’ve updated the app! Cheers all!

Can we all give it up for Sam? For being so brave to learn publicly and let us all learn from his progression! Thanks a lot for being such a generous student!

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Nothing but love for this comment

@ratcomedy

5 ай бұрын

He killed that no hands slab

For dynamic climbing - it’s pretty hard to just aim to “never stop”. I learned to do dynamic climbing better by “chunking”. I would try to look at climbs in sections of 1-3 move chunks, where there’s no stopping motion. This allows me to stop and think about how to use momentum in the middle of a climb. This made the learning process a lot more manageable. It’s very easy now to do anything up to flash grade in one continuous motion without ever freezing, but I didn’t get to this end goal by immediately aiming for it. You automate it by focusing on chunks.

Emil really made a 20min youtube video and an entire training plan just to flex his pacman socks

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

I'm more than happy you noticed

Both Emil and catalyst climbing releasing training videos on the same day 😮 What did we do to deserve this!?

Cant wait for the next installment of this series! Started climbing 2 months ago and just got my first v5 today (then proceeded to fall off a v4 repeatedly)

Oh, this is perfect. I started climbing about 10 months ago, and am getting into 6B-ish territory, but this has some super useful tips that really hit home. The dynamic movement drills look super useful, and it's good to hear that I really shouldn't expect to be hangboarding bodyweight at this point but that regressed versions still are useful. I'm not really one for following a program with my climbing, but relatively simple drills like these are super helpful!

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

That's great to hear! In my experience not a lot of people are great at following programs, and if so it's often good to pick and choose some exercises that you like and perform them when the motivation is there

I'm so glad that you are not only talking about technique, but strength also!

I am about 4 months into bouldering and this will help a lot for me as I'm at about V4 level. My strength is high but my technique is lacking significantly! Awesome video.

The timing couldn't be more precise, this is exactly what I am looking for!!!

As someone who is trying to send gym V5s consistently, this is really helpful. Thanks so much!

This is a FANTASTIC mini-course with the emphasis strongly on what's important, not just for beginners, but basically everyone not super advanced. Working movement, technique, and efficiency. Strength will come over time, but learning to climb properly and climb well is soooo much more important. Amazing stuff Emil!

One thing to remember about v3-v5 too is that at your local crag, these lines are likely to get the most polished with most broken holds and most chalk deposits before a good rain. Don’t despise that classic v3 just because it might be your warm up, clean it up , dial in your beta . you can seriously zap your trip outside by trying blow through easy , popular boulders.

@benwasson9715

6 ай бұрын

can you rephrase in English

@dylanboyd6147

6 ай бұрын

@@benwasson9715 popular spots outdoors may get more difficult with more use due to chalk being built up on the holds, hold being worn and broken, etc. You may become discouraged because you are having trouble with an "easy climb" but that shouldnt discourage you. Keep the right mindset and do everything you can to prepare.

@florianneumann9441

4 ай бұрын

I would also add that depending on your gym your climbing grade might be (sometimes highly) exaggerated. Not only because gym grades can be softer - but also because outside climbing is a different beast to some degree… from quality of holds to even finding them during the climb, to weather/air condition etc.

Great training tips and awesome videography! Thank you!

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Cheers mate, appreciate that :-)

Nice video, with some fun looking exercises! Been thinking of starting a program now that ive been climbing for 9 months, so def try this for a few weeks. Hope it can help me break the v8 barrier!

Invaluable help and not only for climbing. Thank you for sharing the insights. Peace.

Thanks for the great video! Looking forward to the next chapter! I started climbing 10 months ago and two other drills I found really helpful were the hover hands to train maintaining good body tension (especially in overhangs) and the kilter board to get better at dead point. Otherwise doing some top rope helps to force efficient climbing. I have been stuck at V5 for a little while now but I still feel like I am improving and the range of different blocs I can succeed on is broadening.

@fung4206

8 ай бұрын

kinda same as you, climb like 10mons ago. going v6 is pretty hard, i think most important is strength if wanna be a v6 climber. But recently got injury because training too hard. My tips is don't pushing too hard if you already have a lot of section in a week. My schedule before injury was Monday: climb Tuesday : shoulder and some iso excise in regular gym Wednesday :climb Thursday:same as Tuesday Friday: rest Saturday moon/killyerboard Sunday rest/ same as Tuesday I feel as a beginner V0-V7, the volume should not access 5day/week Otherwise the chances of getting injury would probably very high like me

Awesome video! can't wait for the V5 to V8 video!

What a great video. Currently climbing V5 / 6C - Have to get the 7a till end of the year. Hope to get it with your video support. :)

This is honestly very impressive as a guide, very well thought out, I can just tell that even as somebody who's never climbed, though I do have a background in making and understanding videos and guides. Getting a beginner on to demonstrate it is also a rather smart idea, as sometimes coaches don't put enough emphasis on demonstrating the effectiveness of their teachings.

Awesome video, I'll give these a try

it's really interesting, I will try it out today during my session

... and that's how you start a thriving family business 😊. I will try these exercises in tonight's session ;) Thanks a lot.

Another great video❤

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Thanks

Glad to see Cordelia again! Missed you!

🗽 "Be like rubber".... love it! ♥ And for the intermediate with one limb pogo (means one limb not on the holds). .

Great video! I started climbing a year ago and yesterday did my first V6!

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Strong work! That’s really fast

@DaMeowster

8 ай бұрын

Thanks! your videos really inspired me!@@EmilAbrahamsson

@Miles26545

8 ай бұрын

@@EmilAbrahamssonI just finished my first year and have done v8 slab in rental shoes Being young is fun

Very good vid!

Great video, thank you! I already climbed quite a few v5/6c and sometimes, when it fits my strengths or/and I can abuse my height (I'm 1,99m), I do a 6c+/7a. But I'm sure I still can profit a lot from these exercises and will try them! Thrilled for the v5 to v8 video though! 😀

I started climbing after having my second baby. I wanted something fun to do that was just for me and also doubled as exercise, and I fell in love with it! In a year, my max indoor grade was V7, but average was definitely more in the V5/6 range. I’m now expecting my third baby and out of the bouldering game for awhile (though still top roping here and there!), but I’m excited to utilize these tips in a few months when I get back into at it!

@dylanboyd6147

6 ай бұрын

W mom, your kids are in good hands!

@florianneumann9441

4 ай бұрын

You managed V7 on the side in one year after having your 2nd child… damn, you are probably she-hulk in disguise ^^ hope to get there sooner or later

Great video, within my first year I managed to get a couple of v6's and got very close to getting a first v7 now half a year later I tend to finish most of the v6's and v7's in my gym.

Magnus's bouldering course has been awfully quiet since this video dropped

@Duimspijker

8 ай бұрын

My brother in Christ, this video dropped fifteen minutes before you commented 🙏

@bigalbbq8483

8 ай бұрын

@@Duimspijkerthats the joke

@gavinmactarnaghan

8 ай бұрын

20 min vid, he watched it on x2 speed no doubt... @@Duimspijker

@adamhaas141

8 ай бұрын

I took the plunge and signed up for Magnus's course, and I don't regret it one bit. It's actually way more about wisdom and technique than physical training (surprisingly enough). Meanwhile, we all know that when it comes to hardcore training, Emil is the man!

@choojunwyng8028

8 ай бұрын

@@adamhaas141 Do you think the course has anything more to offer than what you'd be able to search on youtube?

Something very important to progress: look better climber movements and try to understand why it works better. In some case beginner simply does not have enough strength to reproduce and it takes very long time to get it but in some other cases it is mainly a question of mobility and this aspect is way more easy and quick to get better with stretching and mobility exercise program. The main thing in my opinion is hips mobility, it opens to so many great moves and new climbing sensations in some particular moves.

After climbing for almost 2 months, I was able to climb my first 2 V5s!!! ^w^ I was so happy when I did both! I’m not strong at all, but I was still able to do them :3 I’m still around V2-V3 for the most part, but occasionally I can do a V4 or V5 (usually takes multiple session to get them though)

@davidpinto-fernandez7132

8 ай бұрын

keep going bro

at 3:17 referenced one piece, Had to subscribe right away

Such an informative and great video!

@eurekaflows

8 ай бұрын

Video went up 4 minutes ago. You commented 2 minutes ago. The video is 20 minutes long. Hmm.

I did my first V5 in 3-4 months, but it was highly specific to my style and I used strength to skip some moves. But after that I got stuck because my technique was pretty bad. Now (9 months in) I've been having more consistent success on V5s and have made some progress on V6s.

@lmp8156

8 ай бұрын

I am in the exact same situation as you! Haha first v5 in 4 months and now after 10 months consistently doing v5’s but unable to top v6 (getting super close tho)

@skoot2629

8 ай бұрын

yea did my first in around 6 months now at 9 months ive done around 30 and only a couple v6s, definitely the first grade thats been really tough to get past

My climbing gym only has a 1-7 rating scale. I can never tell what my climbing level is on the V-Grade system.

Great

Have done two v5s in my first three months of climbing. But feel like my gym are light on the grades sometimes, still hype when I did them tho ;)

I'm not casting doubt on people's progress, but seeing hundreds of V5 routes in videos or photos on the internet I can honestly say that V5 seems to be one of the most widely varied difficulties for indoor bouldering.

If you are tall and you can find a fitting balance route you can do it the first day haha, big difference between strength and hight/balance routes

Where did you climb with Samuel in the video? The boulders looked really fun!

@frelli177

8 ай бұрын

It's at BLX, which is located inside Mall of Scandinavia

Been plateaued at V4 for 3 years after getting there under 2 years

dr k music goes hard

As a person caught up in One Piece, that punch hit hard.

Can we get a tutorial on how you style your hair?

Did I see some big island footy from a recent trip? oooo

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Haha keen eye. It's from a few months back, and part of a bigger story I'm trying to make (I hope..)

Started climbing about 6 months ago and got to V8 boulders and 5.13 routes and videos like yours helped me so much. I did everything you talked about in this video, can confirm it works.

So is there part 2?

I started climbing 4 months ago and I’m working on my first 6c+ any advice specifically on strengthening the finger and their stamina it seems to be my biggest weakness

@ComputerManDanMiller

8 ай бұрын

You just started climbing 4 months ago, your issue isn't your strength it's your technique. It just feels like it's your strength and stamina because...well it partially is, but mostly you're just climbing super inefficiently. Work on using your feet and hips to take as much weight off your hands at all times and do moves with as little effort through your hands as possible.

Was not expecting to see Luffy in Emil's videos lol

The one piece reference just made me subscribe

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Haha I'll make sure to bring more of my anime/manga love into the channel

In 1 year I’ve done 7a in Fontainebleau en 6c+ inside

hype

Pls do a video on how anyone can climb v8

Start climbing 2 month ago and do v6 and v7

I have those socks!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I’ve been climbing for around 10 months now and am at around V5ish, is that good?

App? Bye Emil? Sold!

ive been climbing for around 3-4 months and im around V5 level im struggling with climbing V6, any tips?

What is the name of the boulder that Daniel Woods ans Jimmy Web are working on at 8.3 ?

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Lucid dreaming!

I've been bouldering for 2,5 months and my lvl is around 6b is that good ? I think it's quite good but i'm not sûre about climbing grades

I dont know why but when I started climbing I went only dynamic movement and did almost no static.

Thanks for the video! I started climbing in 2023's september and now I am a 6c (V5) climber. I train 2 times a week and it become my favorite sport. I really enjoy it.

I’m gonna make my friend who can only climb v3 watch this video!

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Thanks! Hope they get something out of it :-)

As a V5-V6 climber in less than a year (started august 2022 and achieve my first lead 6C in May 2023 and earlier for bouldering) I'm happy to see that all of your exercices and tips are the same that I apply at almost every bouldering sessions haha. I should do more of the no hand slabs tho because foot placement is not my strenght. I already did almost every day your hangboard protocol and it works like a charm, especially for preventing finger injuries :D Looking forward to see your next course for intermediate and advanced climbers ! I really like your work , keep it up Emil, your a gem to the climbing community !

@TheBanana202

8 ай бұрын

Lead 6c is not the same as bouldering 6C, its different scales and lead 6c is more comparable in difficulty to a 6A boulder, its much easier. Weird how you managed to get to 6C boulder before 6c lead.

@Lucroz94

8 ай бұрын

@@TheBanana202 Dunno, the grades in France are by colors in most climbing gym. In my bouldering gym I'm around 6c-7a (red grade) and mostly flashed them or got the boulders in few attempts. yesterday I was able to do the next color (black grade) which is around 7a+/7b for the first time. I'm around 6c-7a in all of the bouldering gym I go but in lead it's always more difficult and it's not because of my endurance but more because often they like to put crimps and I'm terrible at them, I prefer sloppers (even if my wrists are fcked)

Does it rly take 2.5 years for v5? I’m at a v3-v4 after going for around 2 months

When can I watch the second part?

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Both the second and third part are planned to be released in October! Part two should be in 5-6 days :-)

@moritz210

8 ай бұрын

Nice, cant wait

Is this relative to outdoor or indoor grades?

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Outdoor is what the study was based on that I mentioned in the beginning, and I planned this to be relative to outdoor grades, or atleast my view on the average V5 around the world. Depends though, if you climb in sandbagged areas with only micro-edges, training micro-edge hangs will help more than this

@stephendaedalus7841

8 ай бұрын

@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks! that's super helpful 😄

a friend of mine went to v5 in 3 months

First year of climbing... injured my fingers twice which kept me from climbing for months on end. Thinking of just giving up :(

@EmilAbrahamsson

Ай бұрын

Finger injuries suck, no denying that. Both me and my brother suffered through loads of them the first year or two, quite frustrating to say the least. I can't speak for your situation, but more often than not it gets way better after a year or two if you're prone to finger injuries. You could also have a go at the "no-hang" protocol I've tried for finger health (look at one of my more popular videos for context), I asked physios about it and it should be alright for newer climbers.

im 13 and got to 6c in 3 months is that good?

@N2ptune

7 ай бұрын

yes damn

LOVE the Luffy reference!

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

I take a lot of my inspiration as a climber from the straw hats and Naruto

@peilin1218

8 ай бұрын

@@EmilAbrahamsson would love to know if there's any take from attack on titan lol

gomu gomu no rock climbing

Oh how fast I clicked on this video 😂

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Nice to hear mate, I really hope you like it! Put quite a bit of time into it 😅

the one piece clip, my man is cultured

@AloeVeraJuiceJuice

8 ай бұрын

such a sad scene tooo

I have been stuck in v4 like a year and a half ;-;

I wish I can climb twice a week but the nearest climbing gym is half an hour away

I got to v7 in my first month of climbing 😭

I climbed for the first time back in february of this year, i didn't go to the gym before and still have only gone to one less than 5 times. Now, half a year after i climbed for the first time i have done 3 black difficulty climbs at my climbing gym, or around 6b-7a, and really enjoy climbing. I don't know if i learn fast, or if it's something else but compared to the 2.5 years to get to the same point you said in the video that's pretty fast, anyone know why?

blud im on my 9th week and ive done 4 v6's

imagine someone who just started one piece watching this video and randomly getting part of water 7 spoiled

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

My sincerest-ish apologies to those people

@goldenducky12

8 ай бұрын

the statute of limitation on spoilers has passed for that surely haha

@Lucroz94

8 ай бұрын

It's been more than 20 years for One Piece with hundreds and hundreds of manga and episodes, you can spoil if you talk about the latest chapters/episodes but not something happened years ago, be serious. This chapter was released in 2005-2008 for the anime and 2004-2005 for the manga dude

@47no

8 ай бұрын

That's literally me, why the hell is Luffy fighting Usopp... (don't answer)

@nolimbsjohnny

8 ай бұрын

@@47no knew it would happen

this is great

someone who can do pull ups with +55kg; 1-3-5, 1-4-5 on campus; +40kg in 20mm for 5 seconds, 5s of front lever, weighing 80kg and being 180cm; Should you be able to climb which grade of boulder?

@viniciuscollaco

8 ай бұрын

V5-V6 I guess

@potentialbouldercrusher9159

8 ай бұрын

I would say around V9.

@ddollerup

8 ай бұрын

Depends on your skill. Should have enough strength for projecting V8

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

I'd say, with VERY rough estimates: Pull up strength: enough for V13 Front lever strength: enough for V13 Finger strength: enough for V10/11 What will matter the most is how you combine your strengths and use them on the wall. If you want to focus on training I would probably focus a bit on campus rungs to even your strengths out a bit, shoot for doing 1-5-8!

I love how people are terrified to fall while climbing slab, then will casually jump down from the top without thinking twice. It's not quite the same but unless you have really big holds sticking out under you, it basically is.

@da14a49

8 ай бұрын

No one's terrified of falling from slab simply because of the height. It's the grazes and skin grater effect the holds/wall can have that is scary

@ComputerManDanMiller

8 ай бұрын

@da14a49 quite often those aren't actually real concerns, you just feel like they are. The majority of falls on slab you don't hit or touch anything, it just feels like you might so it's scary.

@da14a49

8 ай бұрын

@@ComputerManDanMiller That's probably true though the bad scrape does happen from time to time (which resets my confidence)!

@ComputerManDanMiller

8 ай бұрын

@da14a49 that's what makes it so hard! It only takes one bad scrape to scar you mentally for like 100 more tries.

@MrKangorilla

8 ай бұрын

Theres a different between jumping and falling. One is a controlled choice, the other is often an uncontrolled surprise. It's not about the height at all

i started climbing 1 month ago, i don't know much about grading lvl but did my first V5 in bouldering last week, is that good?

All these seem so strange because of the grade. In climb in gym in Paris where there are no font grades given, so my only experience with font grades themselves... So for me V5 without mich finger strength seems errrr, quite unreasonnable. Or worst, the hopes of climbing of font slab v5 (or even v2...) while mostly climbing in the gym... Anyway having done one F7A, and still mostly climbing 6A-Cs in font, I have no idea where that puts me on those educationnal videos, but I'm guessing doing pull up negatives wont do much for me^^

@ComputerManDanMiller

8 ай бұрын

The grade is meaningless, it's more about your experience and skill level. If you know your weaknesses just be mindful and work on them. Develop good movement habits and technique.

how can i get better at climbing? “climb with no hands”

These videos always scare me because I'm like "I got v5 in a year, my gym must have soft grades 😰😰😰😰😰😰"

Do you watch one piece?

Made v8 in 4 mouths, did v5 in first ever setion with no experience. Progression is crazy

2:25 to skip all the talking and actually get to the content

Too early

@EmilAbrahamsson

8 ай бұрын

Impressively early, legend

ONE PIECE

Not to flex but in my first year I got to v6 😏

Background : climbing coach for a local club, been training for about 8 years and climbing for twice as much. Dynamic climbing : meh. I mean yeah for sure, but learning to static is also key. You may be right however that beginner's problems oftenly reward more static climbing than dynoeing. No hands slab : waste of time, in my opinion. Beginners will already be climbing on slabs quite a lot, since this profile is less physically selective. I'm not convinced that no handing stuff actually helps you getting better at climbing because you will mostly be climbing froglike, which is not always efficient. It's super funny though. Pull-up negative : Not a super use of your time. Of course you'll build pulling strength. But you could just go climb in overhangs more oftenly. Works better and is more fun, and actually makes you go in that stuff. I find that usually, it's not that beginners actually lack the strength (well, sometimes they do. but not always), but are impressed by overhangs. Basic grip engagement : complete waste of time. But the reasoning behind is sound, beginners sometimes fail to understand the hold. Hangboarding will absolutely not solve that, since it's not multi-oriented : you learn how to engage in a perfectly controlled and always the same environnement. Which is, specifically, not climbing. It's way better to make people climb so that they understand the criticity of vector forces and how to do the most out of holds. Efficiency training : holy shit, what a great way to put it. This is dope. I did exactly that yesterday on a coordination boulder with strangers. The boulder involved a full 180° of the body to get a left hand on a sideway jug, and you also needed to step left-right-left again with feets to make it work. We (climbers having it done, or being close) coached someone from scratch from the boulder to focus on "one thing more for the next go". First, do the 180°, without getting the foot anywhere. Then get the left foot. Then get the left hand. Then also change left foot for the right. And then move the left foot out again ! And it worked, so, so well. Instead of "just trying harder", focusing on one specific thing to improve is ultra efficient. We probably all do that, kind of, but spelling it out will really improve everything. Thank you sir !

@ComputerManDanMiller

8 ай бұрын

While I don't disagree with some of your points, criticizing without offering any alternatives doesn't contribute much.

@Ptitviaud1337

8 ай бұрын

@@ComputerManDanMiller I did a very long answer to your post, to give somes alternatives or more explaining, and it...disappeared. I'll try to write it again.

@Ptitviaud1337

8 ай бұрын

@@ComputerManDanMiller So ! I'm back, to answer again. I thought i had given some alternatives, but i'll get this more in detail. I'll give a more global opinion on what you "should" do during your beginner phase, and that may adress some points that Emil touched within his video. As a beginner, you should dwelve into climbing in a lot of different style, to make sure you approach as many different qualities as possible. Don't care too much on tackling weaknesses already, because you dont actually know what those are, yet. The most important thing to learn as a beginner is that you should try to go climbing with intention. The worst session is the one that has no focus, no commitment to anything. Learning how to shape a session to aim for a specific goal will give you the most progression. By the way, the goal "having fun" is a perfectly suitable goal for a session. So, how could we, roughly, separate climbing into different areas ; -body ; I'm talking about finger strength, core, pulling strength, power endurance, etc. -positionning/proprioception -techniques (it's NOT positionning. So, heel hooks, dynos, drop knee, that sort of stuff that doesn't come up so naturally) -styles (type of holds or angle of the wall) -mental (fear of falling, commitment, having fun...) -tactics (redpointing hard something. flashing. onsighting. reorganizing...) Of course, those areas actually kinda overlap with each other. But that's fine. When you go on a session, you should have an idea of what do you want to tackle within this session. And as a beginner, you will be better by trying to tap into all categories, and all subcategories, througout the year. Now lets go back to emil's point ; Dynamic climbing : yeah, kinda. But it depends on beginner's background and some climbers will already be climbing dynamically. So instead of that, the goal would be to aim for a diversity of movement choices. I'm not a fan of drills (climbing a problem as statically as possible, then climbing a problem as dynamically as possible), and prefer that climbers go into climbs that reward different approaches. The best way to do this is to climbg as a group, in different styles, and the diversity of the group will help everyone try un-preferred approaches. The rest i stand by what i said. Now, how can you structure your sessions in order to tackle things ? Well, remember that focusing a whole session on one thing only is pretty hard. So, instead of doing that, you might want to focus your session on maybe 2 or 3 things. Techniques can be done within warm up. you dont need to drill them, you just need to know they exist and when they will be most likely efficient (hey, there is a really high big hold quite far away laterally, in an overhang. Probably a good idea to try a heelhook here). Physical stuff should be done when you're fresh, so right after warm up. Positionning can be done even when not so fresh anymore. Mental can be done anytime, but it's exhausting in another way, so doing it fresh is usually better. Tactics can usually be done while doing something else. I'll give some example sessions that will probably suit a lot of beginners. "I'm weak, and the overhang is looming over me in a nasty way, i don't like going there" -warm-up for 15min, including climbing. -go in boulder or routes in overhangs between 20 to 45°. Aim for onsight/flash level. Take rests accordingly so that the quality of work is GOOD (for routes, this might be 15/20 min rest !). The aim is to stay there for 60 to 90minutes. -Finish your session by stepping down one step on difficulty, and in less than 20° overhang. Total session around 2h30. 2h is fine too. "My god, i don't really know why there are footholds anyway, my foot slips everytime on those" -warm-up for 15min, including climbing. Your goal while warming up is to step as precisely as possible on every hold. Aim with your big toe. -go in boulder or routes in slabs or vertical. Aim for flash or "within a session" difficulty. Focus your attention on getting the feet right, not sending or crimping the hell out of hands. Stay there for about 1h. -go into slightly overhangs, betwenn 10 to 20°, in flash or onsight level. Try to feel the difference is foothold size and still use them as best as you can. Whole session, max 2h, it gets boring. "I dont get redpointing. I either flash everything i try, or i just cant do it no matter how i try it." -warm up for 15 min, including climbing. -go into boulders, preferably. If you only have routes, well, do that. Choose a climb hard for you : something you can't flash or harder. Apply Emil's approach of "getting one thing better", AT. EACH. TRY. You want to be going again in the climb with a precise a concrete idea of you could have done better, and actually focus on doing this thing better (not sending !). Exercise best done in group, so that you can all discuss the next try. If you do send the boulder, that's great. If you have no idea anymore on what yo could do better, change boulder. -do the whole session like that, lowering difficulty througout the session so that you always stay within "fast redpoint" difficulty, say 3 to 10 tries, depending on length of the climb. Start the session on physical terrain and move towards dynos, slabs or else as you progress. Whole session can be betweend 2 and 3 hours.

@ComputerManDanMiller

8 ай бұрын

@Ptitviaud1337 Amazing comment. This is all fantastic advice and I appreciate the obvious time and effort you put into this. I would push back slightly on the idea that trying a climb intentionally static or dynamically isn't super useful. Especially as a beginner I think it's a very very useful tool to force yourself to do climbs in unintuitive ways, because your intuition will probably be wrong a lot of the time. Even more advanced climbers can benefit from forcing themselves to climb things in ways they wouldn't consider otherwise, it's surprising what you can learn from it.

@Ptitviaud1337

8 ай бұрын

Yes, that's what i intended to say : drilling this type of move isn't effective. It gets you better at drilling, not climbing. That's why it's way better to confront yourself to boulders or routes that are different because, yes, good setters will force you to make those moves. So you'll have to do them anyway, and in good context. The group effect on this topic is amazing, because you can have a group of climbers with different qualities actually switching roles within a very short time window. On climb 1, climber A, will show climber B the whole use of body on this dyno. On climb 2, climber B will show the delicate movement of hips to climber A within the slab. Good thing for everyone, and this way you can mix up people with sometimes quite different levels in overall climbing.@@ComputerManDanMiller

Pretty wild to me that it takes most people so long, I haven't even climbed for 2 years and climbed a couple 7a+ outdoors (and moonboard benchmarks) and while I knew i was quite fast in my progress, I never thought that it takes that much longer of a time for most people.

Kinda weird to say being too strong can be a bad thing for beginners and then immediately plug your app to get stronger.

I generally hate "influencer" culture because it contributes nothing but "content." Given that I can count on one hand the number of products I've been "influenced to buy - keep it up and maybe I'll have to use two hands.