Thanks for posting 👍 videos are 👌

Great workmanship and top advice on back pointing with ballast mixed in and the wee Pinner gravel stones you use 👍

Love your channel. Thank you for your efforts and best to you!

Another very instructive video.

Another brilliant vid. Be interesting to see how you adopt traditional techniques on modern structures (e.g. 20th century, Accrington brick, pointing outer shell of cavity with lime etc)

@dportercontracting9974

11 ай бұрын

Thanks @jmabarker1! There are some videos I have on pointing fireplaces up with lime on brickwork. It's exactly the same process but with a less course aggregate in the mix with the smaller joints of the brickwork.

Thanks for these videos. 👍

Great vid mate cheers

Thank you for sharing this.

My mum’s sister and children live in that area. it’s a shame that road is spoiling that beautiful building. 😊 thank you for sharing

@dportercontracting9974

Жыл бұрын

The road is a complete speedway off of Pendle hill. Bet those witches didn't travel quite as briskly on their besom brooms.. There's more content from Sabden coming up in the next few weeks. Stay tuned!

@TheGoodlifeoffgrid

Жыл бұрын

@@dportercontracting9974 looking forward to seeing more videos keep up with the good work I’m looking for ideas and tips for my Build Portugal, take care, Helen

Ain't the wall to dry? I though It needs to be damped down so it don't suck the moisture out of the lime mortar, I did my house stone front last August was hot I was damping the wall as long the wall down as I went along letting the stone faces dry first, but it dired in hours, that is the top half of the house and brushing it down few hours later to compact and tidy it up was difficult as it was nearly dry the time i got a brush on it,, and some joints I tap and they sound hollow so I got to do these again one day, it was my first attempt at lime and stone wall so it was not bad for practice lol. The second bottom half of the wall dried slower 2-3 days as I put more effort in keeping Hessian damp and the wall, and it set sold it now and not hollow sounding when tapping them joints, Its my house front it is, i removed all cement and re-pointed NHL 3.5, not putty I still trying to figure out why pup bits blown was it from a dry wall or was it from watt in the mix back up and 2-3 accusations as it started to set a tad in the mixer. The upper part of the wall I was making a full mixer full and last new few hours. But the second half I made smaller mixed like water or a mixer full so I have fresh mix more often not one for hours that if have to wack back up a few times, I also had my Hessian over the scaffolding so was like 1 metre odd from wall, I now should be a few inshces sway Ow ye I made it easier on myself didn't I , I used a rake tool on a angle grinder and u went a tad to deep to 35mm so was some filling let me tell you, was stone wall like this video not facing stone. so doing it all by hand all then joints 35mm deep took ages, I discovered how much lime burbs more than cement omg I had some lime burns, I learned the hard way rubber gloves now, it's best stuff that lime I understand why they use to cover head boddies in it now

Nice work. I have to repoint a 120 year old house with soft bricks lime mortar and I don’t want to screw it up. Worried about the proper application and making sure the brick and mortar are damp enough and the new lime doesn’t dry out to fast

@dportercontracting9974

2 жыл бұрын

Cheers for the props Lucid! The key to a proper mortar for pointing is to ensure that the cured mortar is softer than the substrate that you are working with. A 3.5NHL with a sharp sand would ensure this for ya. Have a look at some of my other vids for a suggestive application and proper curing of the mortar and you shouldn't go far wrong. Good luck with the project matey!

Great video ! I have a stone garden wall to repoint (some wally used cement of course to repoint and it was cracking !) Anyways I did end up with major voids where I can put my whole hand in - should the lime and stone back pointing be done in stages , for example day 1 backfill an inch and then come back To it and top up the fill . Also I thought the lime has to be pushed all the way in to meet whatever is at the back and ensure it's compressed ? Will it not fail of there's a void behind the lime that wasn't filled at all because of the depth? Thanks ! Super informative content !! subbed and will be coming back for more - Eve

How would you keep the last coat of mortar at 1” thickness damp in an arid climate. ? I use wet hessian with a tarp on top one day later it’s ready to hit with churn brush. Seems to white out, not sure if I’m hitting too much with the brush or if it’s drying to quickly

@dportercontracting9974

4 ай бұрын

Hi pal. Thanks for the comment. When the weather is hot and dry, the mortar would benefit from being misted with water every few hours. The damp hessians and tarp would definitely keep the mortar from drying out too quickly but in super arid climates, a misting would definitely help your mortar. You will find that you can't hit the mortar too much with the brush.

Our 200yo stone cottage has big voids in its stonework on front. There is no damp and it keeps water out ok, stone in great condition, is it worth pointing it? Great videos by the way dude!

@dportercontracting9974

12 күн бұрын

Cheers @skygoneblack6216 I'd be tempted to point it up if there are voids in the stonework as those voids are areas that could leach warmth from your property. If the water is gaining entry to the cavity or rubble infill then dampness could be lingering in the dark recesses. Plus, a lime pointed wall will show off the beauty of the original stonework too!

@skygoneblack6216

11 күн бұрын

@@dportercontracting9974 hey thanks dude, may drop you a PM if that ok? Much appreciated

Thanks for mentioning the time of year, was wondering right up till the last minute what month you're working in

@dportercontracting9974

2 жыл бұрын

With crossed fingers and milder winters, we can work up to around the middle of December in this area of the north. For the curing to a technical set, the mortar is then bubble wrapped and hessianed. We have a video to do on the chimney stack of this project, where the winter protection slipped and the mortar blew, in frost. That shows how vital it is to protect it is to protect the project in winter.

@adamt5867

2 жыл бұрын

@@dportercontracting9974 Thanks for the reply and the information, I'll check out the other vid. I'm restoring an old farm building in Slovakia where we have massive differences in temps through the year so it's good to learn. I'm usually over in Blighty in the spring which would be the ideal time out here for lime work. Last year I pointed the rubble stone foundation in September with NHL 3.5, sharp sand and added 20% pozzalan and it survived temps down to -15 in the winter. One of the next jobs on the to do list is to get rid of the old cement render and re render the walls which are made from cob bricks so trying to get my head round that, thinking sharp sand and NHL 2 at the mo but any tips would be welcome. Cheers for uploading, yours and a couple of other English channels have been my guide so far.

@dportercontracting9974

2 жыл бұрын

@@adamt5867 @adam t Sounds like a delightful project to get stuck into! The pozzolan will greatly enhance the performance of your mortar. Regarding the render, you have an ideal mix there. Obviously you will be adding natural hairs to the mix to aid adhesion of the mortar? The NHL would be ideal as the argillaceous content of the NHL would aid in the weatherproofing of the mix. Great effort! It would be ace to see some pics of your project!

@adamt5867

2 жыл бұрын

@@dportercontracting9974 Yes, it's been a good project so far, got loads ahead of me and it's slow work on my own but nice and relaxing up in the hills. It was originally a peasant's house so simple construction with earth mortar, stone, clay and timber dug out of the local hills and cut from the woods. The original floor joists were hewn pine logs laid on the ground with silver birch bark as a dpc. Good point about adding hairs, I read about this last year but forgot to be honest, should have remembered from decorating old lath and plaster houses in London in my 20s. I'm over in the UK in September so will pick some up as it's a nightmare sourcing anything here, last year when I bought the NHL 3.5 it took around a month to get it over from Germany. Funny enough though the pozzolan was easy as there's a zeolite quarry 50km down the road. I've got a few snaps on my phone of progress so far, will see if I can put them on the internet somewhere and put a link up here. Going to watch part 2 of this vid in a mo. Cheers, Adam

I am now at the top of the gable end of my old stone house. I lot of the stones are loose. I have removed these. There is an old chimney which is not in use. I have used nhl 2 for everything so far. Do you think this will be strong enough for the chimney? All the cement pointing is falling out of the chimney, and I dreading what I'll find when I get there. Most of what I do I have learnt from you.

@dportercontracting9974

2 жыл бұрын

Sterling work there! Have you enjoyed the process, so far? Many lime technicians would slap my legs for this but I tend to use NHL5 on most chimney stacks. The chimney stack is getting weather from at least one side, all the time. Be that blaring sunshine or driven rain. Usually when working on repointing a stack, you will find that much of the lime mortar behind the cement pointing will have turned to damp mush. A harsh raking out, back pointing and flush pointing will sort that problem out. Hope this helps?

@amyntas97jones29

2 жыл бұрын

@@dportercontracting9974 That's for the advice. Since I have been using nhl2, I use something harder for the chimney, perhaps a 3.5. I have used loads of pinnings, like you said, and any back voids i have built up with stone. I have enjoyed the pointing. I find it relaxing. To be honest, I missed it over the winter. I am always surprised when I see builders still making the mistake I made in 1985, namely using portland cement.

@dportercontracting9974

2 жыл бұрын

@@amyntas97jones29 Good call on using a harder set for the stack. Pointing is a monotonous job but it always amazes me the adventures that your mind can go on, whilst working trowel after trowel. Your cement pointing has more than served it's purpose. Usually a cement point will last 20 years or so, if well applied. I too think it is a shame that lime isn't used or thought about in the modern construction industry. I'm glad and cherished that you have gleaned some advice from my witterings, then put it to practice. Thanks for your subscription.

We have a guy who is a dry stone waller, currently repairing a stone outbuilding at present. He is using a sharp sand for a lime mortar but with no ballast stones. The mortar spacing between the stones looks to be quite wide to me. Are small stones in the mixture an option or necessary? I actually have a bag of flint gravel spare if needed or small stones dug from the garden of a similar size.

@dportercontracting9974

8 ай бұрын

Lime Mortar will only cure optimally to a depth of 25mm (1") therefore larger aggregate or stone packers are used to bulk out joints and ensure that the mortar will be evenly cured throughout the structure. Any stonework using lime should be walled with much tighter joints than if using cementitious mortar. IE less than 25mm.

@PopularesVox

8 ай бұрын

@@dportercontracting9974 Thanks for your response.👍 I spoke to the builder and we used small stones from garden digging ,which comprised mostly sandstone and gritstone with some slate chips. Much appreciated. Was unsure about using the flint because it was a harder lime mortar mix.

@dportercontracting9974

8 ай бұрын

@@PopularesVox Nice one. Hope the Waller wasn't too perturbed at you suggesting an improvement for the outcome of the job? That mortar will last for many moons now.👍

@carminumbarritus8220

8 ай бұрын

@@dportercontracting9974 Ha Ha 😃 I had the stones in a plastic trug bucket waiting near the wall when he arrived in the morning and when I told him that I had seen a video saying that it would be better to use them, he said nothing. In fact he didn't even look at me and mumbled something. But when I checked later he had used them as your advice. I'm on very good terms with the guy and provided coffee and biscuits throughout the day,. But he is a dry stone waller and lime mortar is something of a specialism. Found it very difficult to get any builder as there is a shortage, so you are in a good trade, Keep it up, you are doing great things to care for these old stone building for future generations.

Hey hows the best way to contact you to discuss a similar re-pointing project on our 150 year old property. Cheers Gordo

Just a question. How come you are putting the stones in dry. Anyone I spoke too says that your extra stones should be fitted damp

@dportercontracting9974

2 жыл бұрын

I guess it is the way I've always done it Jeremy. As far as I can tell, it hasn't had any detrimental effect to the finished product. As stated in the video, I wouldn't use a volcanic rock as the packing material due to its porosity.

It is very good knowledgeable vidio. Thanks sir for providing such a knoledgeable video. I want to know out of 3 type bellow givean, which will be better and more strong to fillup big cracks and for repointing. (1) only Lime without mixing any thing. (2) Mixing of Lime 1 part and 1 part of lime (3) mixing of Lime one part and 2 part of sandd. Please guide e and also help me.

@dportercontracting9974

Жыл бұрын

Thank you Jyotish. Lime on its own will shrink and crack. Always add a substrate such as sand to it. 1 part lime to two parts sharp sand will make a good standard mix. It depends on what you are pointing up and weather conditions of the wall as to what ideal mix would be for your mortar. If you have large cracks then do a back pointing mix and let it partially cure before doing the final application of mortar. I have some other videos that may help you out.

@jyotishmargdarshan352

Жыл бұрын

@@dportercontracting9974 Thanks sir for your proper guidance and at a proper time of of my work. As you suggested for your other videos I am sure to see and refer your all videos before i start my work.