Everything you do, you do it with perfection and pride! That barn will be well insulated. It will also be sound proof. That is a good system to have the 2x4 spaced from the outside wall. Thanks!

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you Joe.

You will very happy I did my barn the same way and it is very warm!!! We went with the radiant heat in the floor !!!

Good idea to insulate behind the posts. I did something similar. I also used 1 1/2" foam, except I only extended it 6" beyond the posts on each side. Then I insulated between the posts with 4" thick 4'x8' foam panels, cut to fit tight.

We just bought 8 acres with a pole barn in really good shape. Putting in a concrete floor then I’ll be insulating it. Thanks for this info!

You Sir understand insulation very well... As I’m new into trying to understand it myself I love how you talk about stopping the heat loss through wood.

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Joe

Nice details there. I'm watching all your videos. Straightforward & effective.

Best video of any kind that I have seen on u tube was amazing how through out the who illustration you fast forward to get to the details that needed explanation.l have built a lot of pole building's and watched a lot of u tube tapes. Never could understand why they spend the whole length getting tools moving parts to work area instead of having it set up before hand. excellent film .

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks so much David. I try to get better and better with each video I make. I appreciate the comment and thank you for watching.

Thanks for the video. I think this is how ill end up doing mine.

Thanks simple straight forward! Good video.

Nice design and great workmanship.

Good video!! I was hoping I could find a video of somebody doing it this way!!

looks very precision---pride in your work---good for longevity------Mikey in Sequim

How's she goin'? Great job with insulating your shop. Man o man that is some sweet shop/barn. I am enjoying watching it's progress!!! Great content and editing . Take 'er easy!!!

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you Mike.

I am curious to know why you did not apply building wrap before you put up the metal siding to prevent moisture and wind from coming in?

This is a well done tutorial.

You do very nice work. Thanks

Nice cuts! Could you apply interior horizontal girts (staggered 1' OC with the exterior girts) instead of a stud wall to attach drywall? Also, if you were sheathing the exterior with OSB + wrap + cladding, could you get away with stuffing an 8 inch batt between the two rows of girts? That foam idea for the exterior girts sure is nice but I don't have that kind of skill with cutting.

New Subscriber, Great Job, Warm Shop‼️👍👍. Vinny 🇺🇸

I did mine the same way only I sealed around all the foam with great stuff pro.

Nice detailed video & explanation!!

Great assembly, great ideas.

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mark!

Thx a Ton for the Post

I have a post frame shed 50x100 and I am going to finish the back half and make it a hunting lodge. I got a quote to do the ceiling and the three walls as I dont have the devider wall up yet and it was 18k so I really like the way you did this. Like everyone else I am worried about condesation and leaking where the nail went through the steel sidding sheet. I am in South Dakota was thinking of doing it how you did it wil maybe spray foaming the ceiling so I can have the open rafters. Wondering if that would be a bad idea?

I did the same when insulating mine. When i did mine to get full advantage of the foam insulation, it says to leave a minimum air gap to get r-value otherwise i was going to do the same. I filled any light gaps with great stuff just turned all the lights off on a sunny day. My ventilation is my ridge and using paper on insulation as a vapor barrier.

Nice job 👍

As a custom home builder with over 37 years of building Energy Star homes I can say that this is one of the best insulation videos out there. You have addressed the little details that will make a huge difference in the comfort of your structure. Congratulations! The only thing I would do differently for anyone reading this is to use unfaced batt insulation between the studs as the paper doesn’t do anything but “could be” a surface to attract moisture and therefore mold.

@jbmak2585

5 ай бұрын

Rookie question, but how would you secure the unfaced batt insulation? Thanks!

@garenpletzer1532

3 ай бұрын

Right now I have a post frame building with the outside steel than tyvec over the outside girts. What do you think of doing the xps foam board like this guy did between the girts but it would be to the back of the tyvec then spray foam over the 1.5" xps.. My goal is to stop the push out from the foam from the previous building we have. Located mid WI.

@explor360

3 ай бұрын

@@jbmak2585 the unfaced batts are actually cut slightly wider than the stud cavity and will stay in place by friction.

@johnstahl2684

2 ай бұрын

Had my attic insulated years ago and had to just pull it all down as the paper began to mold

I had 2" of spray foam andR13 for under theroof. Stays warm in there.

New sub. Thank you sir, from Tallahassee

Great video thanks

great input on videos I'm building a pale barn with attic trusses here in thethumb of Michigan

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Dominic, thanks for the comment. Good luck with your project!

@jagski65

4 жыл бұрын

thanks work in progress

Nice work

Nice job.

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you.

Hello. Great video. I have a question: where do live (what's your climate like)? I am considering doing something similar, and I've heard mixed information in regards to vapor/moisture barrier based on location. I live in Michigan. Thanks. Edit: I just saw your pinned comment. Thanks.

I have a roof with no backing board before the roof went on . What would you do to stop condensation.

Top job.

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

Thanks

I like the approach but depending on your climate you might get condensation in your walls because they’re not air sealed.

How are you compensating for the condensation that will affect the purlins?

Built a pole barn . 10 ft walls and no ceiling. I used some foam/fiberglass boards cut between the perlims. Stuck the styrofoam board on top. Wasn't quite sure how to do the ceiling. If I was going to do it the same way. I live in Michigan on most concerned about moisture. I don't plan on heating it unless it's only temporarily with a portable heater.

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

I've seen people use the foil-faced foam boards on the walls and ceilings, but keep in mind that stuff is not designed as a finished surface and some of that foam is flammable and gives of noxious fumes. Depending on your planned activities such as welding, cutting or grinding, I would consider covering with drywall or similar as soon as possible. Be sure to also allow your attic space to breathe otherwise your roof could get very hot in the summer and shorten it's life. The best thing to do is use drywall or steel ceiling and blow cellulose or fiberglass in the attic. Hope this helps, thanks for watching.

How is this holding up? any problems with moisture condensation?

Have pole barn already build. No moisture barrier on walls. I want to make a house. Can't afford spray foam. What can I do to insulate with no mold or moisture. My barn has 6x6 post I am going to frame flush with 2x4

So what is the R value do you think for all of this total?

Did you use blown fiberglass or blown cellulose? Fiberglass settles and compresses over time, reducing it's R value. Cellulose does not loose R value when compressed. We have R 49 in our ceiling in a 1,315 sq ft home + 676 sq ft heated garage. We're in central Minnesota and with infloor radiant heat our highest heating bill hasn't gone over $600.00 for the entire heating season. I like the bead board between the frame and metal siding and the gap between the studs and girts.

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

I haven't blown the ceiling in yet. My original thought was to use fiberglass, but still considering cellulose. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching.

Nice workmanship and attention to detail. For example, I'm just watching how you use the hammer and what you tap in what order. Good common sense. All the best with your project.

Best place to get your 1.5” foam board?

Question about sealing around the bottom of the walls - my barn (came with the house when we bought it) has air gaps there where the corrugated metal walls stick out. Does it make sense to spray foam around those base areas and then continue up with the foam board and studding and so on? Main concern is sealing from bugs/critters and then insulating. But I don't know jack about pole barns - just that my garage is one and I don't want to pay a fortune to have the entire thing spray foamed.

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

You could use spray foam, but I don't think you'd want to use the expanding type. It could push out your siding. I used the foam pieces that match the profile of the siding when I installed it. Either way, you may want to consider using the bottom trim to seal off the siding from critters. Here's a link to my video where I'm installing that trim: kzread.info/dash/bejne/g4dst619haTSlLg.html Thanks for watching Allan and good luck with your project.

@ack154

4 жыл бұрын

@@CountryFamily Glad I asked! It's obvious now that no one ever installed that small insulation piece or the bottom trim. I'll start there for the bottom. Thank you!

@davidryan4865

4 жыл бұрын

Country Family Homestea

Should bookshelf build, 6" insulation foam corners and base. Short version.

Is a vapor barrier needed when insulating like this?

The foam is way better than fiberglass. how do you think 1/8th inch if fiberglass would do insulating a 150 degree coffee.

Any reason why you didn't buy insulation rolls that were 7' 6" wide? They would fit directly between your 6" posts, from floor to ceiling, No gaps. No studs. They come in 50 or 75 ft rolls, depending on the R value.

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment Randy. I have not seen batts that wide before. That would make for a well insulated wall. In my case I need those studs for interior wall covering as I am finishing the inside with drywall or plywood and hanging cabinets and shelving.

Why did you choose to go with fiberglass vs Rockwool (or another similar product)?

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

While Rockwool would be an excellent choice for this application, I chose fiberglass mostly because of cost and availability. The Rockwool would give a slightly higher R-value but with a six inch wall cavity and the 1 1/2" foam board between the purlins, I felt fiberglass was the most cost-effective choice. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching.

Even though 2 yrs ago, a well thought out plan for insulation. I will do same with my barn. Question: you mentioned the 2” (pink) foam board you used in your floor. Did you mean your barn floor and if so, how was that done? Thanks in advance!

@CountryFamily

3 жыл бұрын

Here's how I did the barn floor: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dKRhsq6kkbGbiNY.html This past winter is the the first time the barn was completely insulated and all wall finishes on. I don't have the hot water in-floor heat system done yet, but I easily kept it above freezing all winter with a small propane space heater.

@lcee6592

3 жыл бұрын

@@CountryFamily Thanks for the link! 👍

Do you have a link to the exact foam board you used here?

Where can I find the 1 1/2" wall foam board?

Does it need a vapor barrier?

Thanks

i forget the name of the fiberglass insulation but it has an r factor of 26 for 2x6 walls

Just purchased my first house with 24x32 noninsulated pole barn. Thoughts on spray foaming vs foam sheeting?

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Spray foam is the way to go for sure but it is much more expensive.

Any problem with condensation on the wood ect were you put the foam in between the Perlins ?

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

No, not a all.

Awesome video. I hope to use this same method on my MI pole barn. How is it holding up for you? Do you have any videos of how you did the ceiling? My trusses are 4ft on center with a metal roof, so I am not sure how I can do the blown in method you suggest.

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks, I have one section of of the barn done with walls and ceiling. Since my trusses are 2' on center I used 5/8" drywall for the ceiling. I didn't blow the insulation in the attic yet, but plan to do so by this fall. With 4' centers you could use metal similar to roofing but made for interior ceilings. I believe it will support the blown in insulation. Check out RR Buildings channel, Kyle does most of his barns with larger spacing between trusses: kzread.info/dron/WXEQsK3UiHszjwgGN5HUeQ.html. Good luck with your project.

@rupe53

3 жыл бұрын

jagarcia89 ... for sheetrock support you could simply screw 1x3 strapping across the ceiling on 16" centers. That's probably the cheapest / easiest way to go.

@jagarcia89

3 жыл бұрын

@@rupe53 Unfortunately that would not work for me, since my trusses are on 4ft centers, adding the 1x3's and drywall would add a too much weight given the trusses 5lb per sq/ft load rating. I ended up doing 1x3 firing strips and laying 1" polyiso foam board on top of it and using that to hold rolled fiberglass. The foam board is much lighter than drywall and because it is also insulation, allows me to go a bit lighter on the insulation on top. Probably not up to code, but had to get the garage warm for winter

@rupe53

3 жыл бұрын

@@jagarcia89 ... I was going to suggest adding a few more 2x4 braces to the truss assemblies and gain load rating to at least 10 lb per sq ft, then you could add sheetrock. The reason being is that polyiso doesn't have a fire rating. Also at 5 lb per sq ft you hardly have enough strength to add ceiling lights.

So how much moisture builds up between the exterior wall and interior? Moving to Idaho this year and going to do a pole barn/house thing and there are so many ways folks insulate these things and doesn’t seem like there is any real good a answers or solutions.

@CountryFamily

3 жыл бұрын

With a vapor barrier on the inside, there should be no way for moisture to get into the wall. I would check with manufacturer websites though as it really depends on what type of insulation you use and the climate in your locale.

Leaving the gaps behind the studs creates a raceway for mice. They will make that whole wall their home in no time.

Old thread so I apologize for asking now, why the Styrofoam, I was thinking of using 1.5 R-Tech insulation panels and particular reason you just went with the plain stuff? I was going to put the foil side to the inside, then do faced fiberglass batts. My exterior sheathing is LP Smartside so the wall surface is smooth so I'm a bit worried that condensation could form in between the RTech and the siding. Any advice?

@CountryFamily

3 жыл бұрын

I used the white foam mostly because it was cheap and easy to get. I haven't had any signs of condensation in my walls. They are completely finished on the interior now and I'm using small propane heater this winter and it's working great.

Do you worry at all about moisture getting trapped between the foam and metal or is there enough airflow from the ribs to keep it in check?

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment Charles. Warm moist air from the heated interior would flow through the wall and get trapped by the foam or metal. The vapor barrier on the fiberglass insulation gets that warm moist air in the conditioned space. If the vapor barrier wasn't installed then moisture would surely get inside the wall and cause a problem. This is somewhat dependent on what your climate is like too. Certainteed has a good resource on their website: www.certainteed.com/insulation/resources/do-i-need-vapor-barrier/

@charlesgillet4255

4 жыл бұрын

@@CountryFamily I am in the pacific northwest. I am sure it varies but most of the new construction I am seeing doesn't use any vapor barrier/retardant. I assume that is because it never gets too hot or too cold around here. I am framing in a room in my shop that will be heated and cooled. I was a little worried on summer days that moisture/condensation could get trapped between the foam and metal and have nowhere to go. Don't want to end up finding rusted metal in the future.

Hey quick question. I see you have your electrical on the posts. Can you show me or tell me where you have it running around the 4x6 posts? I see you have it running along the girts but how did you go around the main posts? I was planning on doing foam between the girts and then 6” fiberglass top to bottom and blow in the ceiling. But how did you run your electrical with foam being in there? Thanks

@CountryFamily

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the question. Most of my electrical I ran underground in pvc and changed to EMT above the floor. When I took off from one of those boxes I used MC cable and went behind the poles dishing out some of the foam. You could also drill a hole in the center of the posts if you want. I did it way to get some finished outlets while the walls stayed open for a while. If you planned and covering the walls right away you could even take a more traditional residential approach and run Romex. I'm actually an industrial electrician so I prefer conduit but that's just me. 😀

@JColip1776

3 жыл бұрын

@@CountryFamily I’m going to run Romex I just didn’t know if there was a trick going around the posts with the foam in there. I think I may cut sections by the post so I can run the wires through behind the post and use spray foam to button it up before adding the fiberglass insulation for the cavity. I don’t feel comfortable drilling through the posts I’d rather keep those as structural as possible. Lol

Is the foam trapping moisture where is makes contact with the steel? I would think that you wouldn't want that.

@LightGesture

4 жыл бұрын

This is common practice, normally you'd wrap it, but there will always be water coming behind even that, as it's a weather guard, not really a waterproofing barrier

Good video. A pole barn floor is still considered a floating pad, therefore the bottom plate should be doubled up and left up about 1 1/2" off the floor, fastened to the poles only, letting the pad move as it may. (cold climate where frost is a problem)

@fastrivers812

2 жыл бұрын

I'm a little lost by your comment. Just trying to understand. So for your recommendation, is the bottom plate that's touching the floor not attached to it already? I assumed that they were attached to the concrete pad in some way.

@junglerocks2279

10 ай бұрын

What if the area is held at room temperature?

What brand insulation

a regular will not go this far with insulation which is sad! Great Job.

Did you use any type of vapor barrier on your walls and roof? Thanks.

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

The Kraft paper face is a built-in vapor barrier for the walls. I will put up a plastic sheet vapor barrier on the ceiling before installing drywall. Thanks for watching.

@BeyondBiochar

5 жыл бұрын

-trapping vapor between kraft face and metal....

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

@KelMaster Construction Thank you for the comment. I am wondering what part of the country you are in? I am in Michigan (Zone 6) and my barn will be heated but not cooled. Certainteed recommends vapor barrier on the inside to prevent warm moist air from passing through into the wall cavity. The outside wall should breathe to the outside and the attic space should be well vented. If the conditioned space is predominantly cooled then warm humid air from the outside could be trapped in the wall space and cause mold and or rot. In this situation a vapor barrier on the inside should NOT be used. In my days as a builder, I have exposed exterior walls for tie-ins and remodels that had insulation with a kraft-faced vapor barrier and there was no sign of moisture. Also the Michigan Residential Code Section R318 requires "a vapor retarder shall be installed on the warm-in-winter side of the insulation". If you have different requirements in your area, I would like to know more. If that is the case, I would point that out for my viewers so they can do a little more research for their area. Thank you. The CertainTeed reference is from here: www.certainteed.com/insulation/resources/do-i-need-vapor-barrier/

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

@KelMaster Construction Thank you very much for taking the time to participate in this conversation. I do truly appreciate it. I have not put the ceiling in yet, so I am going to do some more checking on what is best practice here. I plan on blowing fiberglass into the attic space. The wall insulation is just as shown with the kraft-faced batts. I have pinned a comment to the top to urge viewers to do more research for their particular project.

@heartlanddan

5 жыл бұрын

@KelMaster Construction so no plastic sheeting was added to the attic? I too have built a 30x36 pole barn and getting ready to insulate it. I like how this one has been done and would like to do mine the same way. I am just looking for the right way to insulate so I do not run into any troubles down the road About 5 years ago I built a Fire Department out a a pole barn, and there was not any plastic sheathing required. The walls were insulated with fiberglass, and metal sheets lined the interior walls and ceiling. The lid was blown with 40" of fiberglass.

Is Condensation an issue?

We are about to do our garage like this. How far apart did you space the 2x4s?

@CountryFamily

3 жыл бұрын

24" on center

Currently doing a lot of research for my own 30x40 shop. Since you are essentially building 2x6 walls inside the post frame for insulation, why not just build 2x6 stick frame from the start?

@CountryFamily

3 жыл бұрын

To stick frame this barn would require a 42" deep footing and block or poured wall foundation. That cost would far exceed the extra $250 spent on 2x4s. Plus it allowed me to finish only part of it at first and then the this year I finished the other side. Having the 2x6 walls plus the 1 1/2" foam board gives me about R-25 which will definitely help when I keep it heated full time this winter. If you live in an area where you can build on just a slab then stick framing with 2x6s is probably the way to go.

@djkommando

3 жыл бұрын

@@CountryFamily makes total sense. Thank you for the info.

Thank you!!

Isnt the r19 batts used in 2x6 framing? Whats the need for the foam and pirlins?

@digitalguru42

4 жыл бұрын

The purlins are what the exterior sheet metal is attached to. The foam between them is to add more insulation.

@rhaulman

4 жыл бұрын

@@digitalguru42 What you are calling Purlins are actually called Girts. Purlins are on the roof, Girts are on the walls.

I'm a noob but would you need to put up plastic over the insulation for a vapor barrier?

@CountryFamily

Жыл бұрын

Yes a vapor barrier on the inside is required. The paper/foil on the fiberglass batting is a vapor barrier so in case plastic wasn't needed.

Feed rollers on your table saw!

I'm trying to figure out how to insulate my pole barn. There is no ridge vent and there is no soffit vent. I haven't figured out how to do it. I would hate to put up thousands of dollars worth of insulation just for the barn to sweat and ruin it all. Any advice?

@ShopTherapy623

4 жыл бұрын

I wonder if I should take my ridge cap off and add a ridge vent? I dont know much about this stuff

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Yes you really should add ventilation to the attic space. Not just for the insulation but also to extend the life of the roof material. Adding a ridge vent would be an easy start, but you will also need vents lower to get good airflow, preferably in the soffit. There are soffit vents that can be snapped into drilled holes or screwed on top of hole cut in existing soffits. You can also add gable vents on each end of the barn to get good cross ventilation. Here's a couple examples from Amazon: amzn.to/2ueR435 amzn.to/2V5j8kl amzn.to/2SWwoVT Hope this helps - good luck with your project.

@ShopTherapy623

4 жыл бұрын

Country Family Homestead I was actually considering not having an attic space and insulating the underside of the roof (similar to the walls). With no soffit or ridge venting, I’m worried about condensation.

Have you found any condensation by doing the walls this way?

@CountryFamily

2 жыл бұрын

I have not. I have one piece of plywood in my mechanical room that is not screwed down and I've pulled it off recently and It's dry as a bone behind it. I think I'll do a video soon on this subject, because a lot of people have that concern. As long as there is a vapor barrier installed there moist air from the inside can't get through the insulation.

Install all your framing then use spray foam insulation. It finds every crack and crevice and saves time.

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Definitely spray foam is an excellent choice. It is also much more expensive.

@michaelsunsdahl5874

3 жыл бұрын

@@CountryFamily Yep. Finds every crack...in your bank account. Did mine the same as you here in north central Indiana. Very happy with the outcome!

When you add price of foam all extra lumber you probably could have stick framed a garage for close to same price. Still did a nice job congrats

Does this allow enough air flow to prevent condensation?

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Actually, warm interior air passing through insulation and cooling off is what causes condensation. For buildings in cooler climates a vapor barrier should be installed on the "warm in winter" side of the insulation to prevent air flow. For warmer areas that are cooled more than heated this may different. Insulation companies like Owens Corning and John's Mansville have good information on their websites to determine the best technique for your area.

what kind of white foam did you use?

@CountryFamily

3 жыл бұрын

I used 1-1/2" Expanded Polystyrene: www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foam-board-insulation/expanded-polystyrene-foam-board-insulation-4-x-8/1632082/building-materials/insulation/foam-board-insulation/expanded-polystyrene-foam-board-insulation-4-x-8/1632105/p-1444435971090.htm

Yep insulate every square inch!!!!!

Great video ! Question ? Where did you get your foam board from ? I have looked everywhere ?

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Big box home stores should have it.

Air moving around it or filtering through it defeats the insulation. You need film to stop the air movement as well.

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Yes sir, that's what the vapor barrier is for.

Do you have any condensation issues?

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

No, but it may depend on what area you live in.

Those are girts, not purlins. Purlins are in the roof.

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

I've been waiting for someone to correct me on that. 😀 I've been calling them purlins my whole career because everyone I know calls them the same even though technically they are girts.

@mtdew1900

5 жыл бұрын

They are. called poles also it's called a pole barn

@janetc4306

3 ай бұрын

​@@CountryFamilythanks for the video. You call it whatever you want. It's your video and I appreciate you making it. Very helpful no matter what terminology you use.

We see you are a reputable source and know your stuff! Hypothetically question: if someone puts up an uninsulated pole barn and sells prepackaged popcorn in during the summer, what potential problems could they face when selling perishable goods?

Holy cows and potatoes! Way too much work and cost.. I'm using Prodex to form a complete envelope around my barn. It provides insulation, vapor barrier, and radiant barrier in one. Comes in big rolls to wrap the entire building.

@MsSmileey

3 жыл бұрын

About How much would something like that cost for a metal building home thats 3,000 sqft? Using your method?

I am so so so happy I did not build my 30x40 with loft barn as a pole barn! I built stud walls just like a house. Why build a building then build stud walls inside afterward. Seems to me a huge waste of time and money. You did a very nice job with what you had.

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment Kevin. In order to stud-frame this building I would have to put down a 42" deep foundation which would be way more money than this route. This way also allowed me to just finish the wood shop side first and leave the rest uninsulated for now. Different areas of the country may have different codes where stick framing would be better.

great

Why not use a blown in insulation? Much better seal.

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

I agree but the cost is significantly more too. For my barn I didn't think that added expense would be cost effective. I did use Nu-Wool in my house and I am very pleased with that product. My house was actually too tight which caused condensation on the windows in the winter. I had to add an outside air duct to bring in fresh air which solved the problem. Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.

@drewjohnson4673

5 жыл бұрын

Cost XXXX more.. get an estimate. Almost horrifying.

@dennishayes65

5 жыл бұрын

Country Family Homestead: In Minnesota it is code to have an outside to inside air exchange pump to eliminate inside moisture in the house.

@Ericbjohnston5150

5 жыл бұрын

@@dennishayes65 if they were really needed all states would require them. This state just sees a mandatory purchase for a tax grab.

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

@@dennishayes65 I believe it is here now too. I remodeled the house back on 2006 and the inspector didn't require it although he probably should have.

What is the size of your shop there?

@CountryFamily

5 жыл бұрын

32' x 48'. It'll be split with a 16'x32' woodshop and a 32'x32' Fab shop & parking area.

Nice barn. Probably been cheaper to build a stick built garage though.

@CountryFamily

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks Jim. Framing wise yes a stick built is cheaper, but here in Michigan it would require a 42" deep block or poured wall foundation which would more than offset the savings.

@jimsutton9143

3 жыл бұрын

@@CountryFamily copy that,codes must have changed.i’m in the U.P and i built my 30’x50’ on a floating slab. Nice work! Fill it up with toys!

@brianbeck929

3 жыл бұрын

In michigan you can't build a garage on a floating slab? Mn we can don't need block frost footings

0:08 My OCD is doing flips over the EMT on that outlet.

@CountryFamily

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Mike! Even though it's going to be buried in the wall, I had to make it look good for my own OCD sake. 😀

Now I know what happened to ,Bobby Singer.

I like your electrical piping for your receptacle. But as far as temp transfer I'm out

@beckyschwantes5287

3 жыл бұрын

That is a nice bending job.

Why not just frame the walls like a house? 2x6 studs 16" oc. Would have saved you lot of time and money.

@junglerocks2279

10 ай бұрын

Prob for a higher R-Value..?

@juanlanda967

5 ай бұрын

This style of framing is called pole barn framing. It is the most cost effective style of construction. The cost of the insulation being used is still cheaper than the cost of stick framing. There are many pros and cons to each style.

@keenanj5849

2 ай бұрын

Less thermo breaks in post frame construction.

This dude looks like burt Chrysler

hope those purlins were pressure treated......