Hey everyone.. I goofed and E3D suggest 409 steps per mm for the Extruder, not 415 as I mentioned here. However, as always, you should be fine tuning your Esteps anyways, so this is a "close enough" starting point. Also, if you find your extruder is moving the wrong direction and dont want to unbolt the cover to change the cable orientation, you can just change the line: #define INVERT_E0_DIR true to #define INVERT_E0_DIR false This will reverse the extruder stepper motor direction, solving your problem.

@MegaJameslaw

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Jason. Awesome video and explaination. I went through it with your help and when you get to that part where you hit the platformio icon and a "build"button? i dont have anything displayed in project tasks like yours. can you please help

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

@@MegaJameslaw did you install platformio? It's an add-on to vscode. There's a link in the description.

@ahmadalqattan4158

4 жыл бұрын

Hi Jason, Thank you for the video followed your steps and worked almost fine. On the gear extruder setting "should be set to FALSE not true. Thanks once again

@shawndornbusch5382

3 жыл бұрын

From what I can tell, I got the BLTouch v3. Its wires are red, blue, yellow and the z-stop was black/white with a red 2-wire plug. Since you mentioned the breakout board is negative, positive, signal, I double-checked, and sure enough that would have resulted in the wrong polarity. I swapped the red/blue wires in the plug and everything's working fine, so left to right my wires go blue, red, yellow, black, white. Just putting this out there in case it can help someone else.

@DCASPER1626

2 жыл бұрын

i have got a cr 10 v3 i cant find a vid anywhere on youtube how to do the farmwhere can you do a vid of the cr 10 v3 pls need the farmwhere asap its on my printer naw just need the software

4 years later...I've had my Hermera sitting in the box for a few years...will DEF be doing this on my cr10 V3!!! Thanks for this!!!!!

LITERALLY was looking for this video yesterday, it did not exist, thank you, thank you so much you beautiful canadians.

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

Lol! No problem. If you have any questions please message me on here and I'll do my best to answer.

Great walkthrough 👍❤️ Nice design 👍 Thanks for sharing 👍😀

I used your tutorial and everything works perfectly, thanks a lot for your video.

This was an awesome guide for installing the Hemera! Thank you so much for making such a wonderful video on how to do the install!

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

No problem Alex. I hope you find it helpful if you install a hemera. The hotend hardware side is pretty similar across many printers. It's the bltouch and motherboard differences that may trip you up. If you have any questions, please post here and I'll do my best to help

Bruh! This is gold! Already have the bltouch, just ordered the Hemera! This will fix ALL my filament broken or stuck fails! OMG

@DanielCooper1

Жыл бұрын

How'd you compile your firmware? I'm following his instructions and getting "Warning!"s all over when I try to compile...

Thank you. Very clear and well explained. I like that you went through the firmware and shared your thoughts on all those settings. I have an Ender 3, but this guide is very usefull anyway!

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback :)

Thanks for a very thorough and informative video. I have the CR-10s Pro V2, but most of what you did I've been able to adapt to my own printer. I am particularly thankful for your detailed walk through the configuration files. As I keep my printer in the shed which is a long way from a computer, I remotely program it over WiFi via a raspberry Pi fixed to the side of the printer. This works very well, and it means that I don't need to have a desktop computer in the room with the printer, or carry a laptop back and forth. I power the Pi from the 24v rail on the printer, using a cheapo chinese buck converter which brings it down to the 5V I need for the Pi. Having the printer in the shed also means I don't need to worry about noisy stepper motors, or fumes from ABS or Polycarbonate, when I'm printing with these materials.

@guidancebeats

2 жыл бұрын

@tasmedic , I’m installing a revo hemera on my cr10s pro v2 , would you mind if I pinged you for some questions ?

Really great video, thank you!

Amazing video! Thank you!

Nicely done. Thank you.

My Hemera came in today, a day after I ordered it, delivered by faires apparently. Now I have to get my printer up and running so I can print the parts to get my Hemera up and running. This video should be invaluable.

Thank you for this wonderful video. I am upgrading to a E3D V6 and I have no clue how to edit the software

Great video (as always) I tweaked the mounting plates as I hate those square nuts and used M3 captive nuts instead (just a little remix) very helpfull though

@davet7231

7 ай бұрын

link plz!!!

I haven't watched it yet but that you made it is fantastic. Just what I need right now.

Ok guys I got the Firmware flashed, 1), make sure you extract with a competent program such as winrar 2) after extracting the files, move the directory/folder marlinbugfix-2.0.x to the desktop, I was getting errors when I tried to build when this folder was left alone where I initially extracted it 3) make sure your Cr10 v2 is turned on when you upload, not just from USB power.

Thanks for the video it has been a big help. I have a question. @51:40 you talk about a line you added called the Z_STOP_PIN and you set to 19. Where did this value come from. I have a Tevo Tornado with an MKS Sgen L board and 2209 TMC drivers.

Wonderful Video! Could I reuse the same BL Touch Mounting Holes and just make a lowering bracket? That is where my BL Touch is located now with the stock metal bracket. Thanks

If you don't have the button head m3x5 screw and happen to also be upgrading the bed to a flexible steel sheet. The flat head screw that hold the clip on the bed are the perfect size for this application. I think they are m3x6.. but they don't touch the back wall, so perfect fit. They end up just flush with the plate.

As far as print orientation for the brackets, did you print them laying down on the bed? I would assume so, but want to make sure the slots for the square nuts will come out fine if done that way. Secondly, oh dear god thank you for this. A big part of why I bought this printer was the easy Titan swap, but then realized that wouldn't fix the PTFE-lined hotend which is my biggest fault with the printer. So I bought a Hemera, and then realized I couldn't find a single mount anywhere online. You seriously just removed so much stress from my life, I was actually contacting design firms. Thanks so much.

This was so exceptionally useful. Since I'm in the US and will probably buy the parts off amazon can I pay you just for the information somehow? This is literally the only video detailing how to do this using a cr10v2 (which is what I have)

Hi great video. Could you please show us some test prints with this mod?

hey. Sorry If I didn't understand but the link for Joe Casha's Fan shroud, do we need to print out all the files from that link as well? Thanks

Excellent video. I was wondering how much would differ for the Revo XS. I made my own mounting plates and have the Revo XS mounted to my CR10V2 but I have never flashed firmware before. Can you tell me what I should look for?

First of all great video, I just did the upgrade from stock bowden hotend but I have a few differences. First I don't have BL touch and the nozzle seems to be much lower then the stock so my Z never reach the endstop. Do you have any idea how to fix that? Or I just simple need to drill new holes for the endstops a bit a higher?

Great video. Can Linear advance be enabled for regular extruder in marlin 2.0.x?

Walkthrough was very useful and I learned a lot of great info about firmware features I've never seen. Ended up compiling/flashing with the Arduino IDE on OSX/Linux due to some issues getting the C++ side of things to work with VSCode/PlatformIO and Windows. Just wanted to let others know this is a viable path if you are unable to set-up the environment mentioned in this guide. Just make sure you select the Mega 2560 board in the IDE and install the "U8glib" library using the Library Manager.

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

Great tips. Thanks for covering that.

@michaelknight2897

4 жыл бұрын

Is that mega 2560, not 2650?

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

@@michaelknight2897 mega 2560

@mattmaville3371

4 жыл бұрын

@@michaelknight2897 Edited! Good catch.

I have exactly follow the instruxtions, but i have a problem with the z offset, i can't get the nozzle by the bed. when i adjust the z offset, then i can get lower than 9.866 or something, i just need 3 mm more. how can i achieve this?

everything works as I have only the bl touch throws the Z axis, I read that I have an 8-bit board, can't the problem be that I'm not using a 32-bit board? I followed this instruction

Do you happen to know if the Carriage is the same for a CR 10 v2 as it is for a cr10s Pro v2??

Would LOVE to see you guys do a Hemera Install video for Artillery Sidewinder X1 and the CR10S Pro!!!! Keep up the great work

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

I put a hemera on my personal sidewinder x1. Used the led pins to control the bltouch and I swapped the mks gen-l for a 32bit skr 1.3 because....I can!

@zachofalltrades6116

4 жыл бұрын

@@Jason-yn6oy wish you would of made a video of all of that!

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

@@zachofalltrades6116 unfortunately there are only so many hours in a day and upgrades like that one occur in the early hours of the morning in my basement on a whim. Lol

@deadsimpleali5540

4 жыл бұрын

Please do an install video on CR10S pro. I have a hemera but not confident about the firmware changes hence its sitting there collecting dust

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

@@deadsimpleali5540 basically identical. Aside from how it attaches to the x carriage with a different mount, all the firmware bits are the same if you use tinymachines firmware. Just uncomment your specific printer at the top.

Hello! So I got 4 HEMERA upgrades for my print farm for my Ender 3's. I am unable to get some clear Sainsmart TPU printing for longer than 20 minutes before either: A) The filament stops feeding (low tension), or the filament gets crushed and is blocked by the tight tolerances of the Bowden adapter (high tension). I've gone through E3D's entire troubleshooting guide- waiting for support to get back to me. Any ideas what might be causing this issue?

at 56:01 you adjust the Mesh settings however you had selected AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR. Would this have any effect?

Maybe post your updated firmware for those less talented with coding environments? Had nothing but headaches with visual studio and platformio. Now I'm wiring up a Duet Wifi since this video only made me hate coding even more. Beginners beware

Hi Jason, can you see an advantage to drilling the carriage and bolting the Hemera directly to it?

@tasmedic

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, I did this and in addition to saving a bit of weight and build time, it keeps the nozzle closer to the original position, so I recommend this. It's best to use a pillar drill when making the holes, to keep everything square.

Will this mount plate work with a first generation CR-10S?

Do you have a working hex file for this setup? I cannot get this code to compile

would this mount work on the cr10 pro v2?

Would this work on the old cr-10s ? Firmware wise

I just had a disaster with my stock CR-10 V2 hot end, the Hemera isn't available, and may not be for a very long time. The stock shroud is pretty over-engineered and doesn't cool that well. I would love to see a video on attaching one of the alternative shrouds you can print yourself (Petsfang or something), AND a real E3D v6. The stock heater block is easily destroyed when you apply torque (like when trying to get on a Titan extruder), because of its use of a cheap thermal adhesive. That would be very helpful with scarcity in some of these amazing hotends for probably the better part of a year...

But why should I so this Upgrade? What are the improvements compared to the original extruder e.g the direct drive extruder upgrade by creality? Thanks in advance and nice video btw

Is PLA enough for the printed support pieces?

Why did you start with firmware made for a different printer instead of just modifying CR10v2 firmware?

I just install a Hemera on my CR10S Pro but would love to see what your setting would be in the firmware maybe you can show that at some point?

@priekabos22

4 жыл бұрын

me to plus 12864 lcd would be great to get settings for firmware

@deadsimpleali5540

4 жыл бұрын

I echo that

Where can I print that adapter plate you used @12:43 ?

Will this work with a TH3D EZabl?

Great video. ThAnks a lot. But I wanted to know why you leveled the corners manually and didn’t use the autobed leveling? That’s what’s the BL touch is for. You only used the bltouch in this video to home the Z axis. Is that part assumed after you level the corners manually? ThAnks

@philr6829

3 жыл бұрын

There is no need to make the z-axis work harder than it needs too. Do a BL Touch bed level. Using a tool like bed level visualizer in Octoprint and see if it is way out of level. If it is, tweak it manually so it is manually close to level and let the BL Touch mesh out the fine details.

Any plans on making a video on mounting hemera in the artillery sidewinder x1 ? Thanks

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

Maybe. I may be adding another X1 to my personal fleet. In which case I'll do a video on it.

@sujay5044

4 жыл бұрын

thanks a lot Jason . Looking forward to it

Are there any updates to this video?

As an industrial mechanic, I find it quite annoying, that you overly explain things. BUT: I also totally appreciate it, that you do it, because with this kind of tutorial, you give amateurs an excellent explanation how to do stuff correctly and therefore minimizing the possibility to fuck up. This is textbook quality - thanks for that, good Sir!

@bertinouellet

4 жыл бұрын

True. But you're a Nazi.

@thetab0179

2 жыл бұрын

@@bertinouellet How?

Good video. But, it would be nice if you started with why I would want to do this.

Hey Jason, I am about halfway through the conversion, big thanks to you! I have the Hemera installed, but i noticed i lose some travel since the bracket positions the nozzle off the bed at X home position, and about 10-11mm away from reaching the right side of the bed. Could you change your bracket STL and have the 3 holes for the wheels moved to the left 10mm? Thank you.

@HeyRay2

4 жыл бұрын

I know I'm responding to a 5 month old post, but I noticed the same thing and Jason actually calls that out that the nozzle is about 14mm off the left side of the bed when homed. I'm working on remixing the bracket that connects between the Hemera and the adapter plate to move the whole hot end assembly to the right to compensate. Once I've confirmed that my remixed bracket works I'll post a link to a copy for others to download.

@HeyRay2

4 жыл бұрын

Updated bracket created, printed and installed! It should give full access to the build plate on the X axis! Better still, the bracket is compatible with all other parts of the models that Jason created! Enjoy! www.thingiverse.com/thing:4536121

@wesc6220

4 жыл бұрын

HeyRay2 Thanks for the reply! I ended up going a different route since my printer became dead in the water after trying to mimic what Jason did (my firmware flashing experience was horrible). I’m now a Duet user because of Jason haha. I figured out my own bracket for the Hemera. But hopefully someone else reading this will find it useful! Cheers

@guidancebeats

2 жыл бұрын

@@wesc6220 what happened ??

Can someone please tell me why I would want to upgrade to this?

I’ve heard s-curve and linear advance don’t work together.

2 quick questions a) is the modified code/firmware available in the github link (ie, am i good to go if I just install and flash) or do I need to modify the code as shown in the video? b) will this modification allow me to print materials such as nylon with my Cr10 v2?

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

Yes, you can print any high temp materials like nylons since you're not all-metal hotend with the Hemera. The code is pre-edited, with all the changes shown in the video. Just compile and upload.

No matter what I do VSCode build fails. Says it cannot find path

So what happens when you follow every step exactly, like say 3 times, and when you go to build the firmware you get a failure? I know this is 2 years old, but any help is greatly appreciated. Hopefully i can get my printer working again...

@E30Source

Жыл бұрын

were you getting "MOTHERBOARD is not defined in Configuration.h"?

Do you lose any amount of print volume when installing the Hemera? I'm looking to install this on a Tevo Tornado (CR10 clone).

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

That will depend on the bracket setup. Usually it shifts the nozzle a bit forward, so you may lose some in the Y direction.

Great Video! Question: When I have made all the changes to the Marlin debug and try to build it, the projects tab in PlatformIO is empty. No tasks. What do I do?!?

@wesleycooper932

4 жыл бұрын

Same issue I had. Bit the bullet and I'm re-wiring with a Duet Wifi. A decent upgrade to 32bit and wifi printing at least! If you're decent with coding (I'm not), you can try doing it in another program. Others had success with that.

iIs this the complete - Product Code:HERMES-175-D-24V kit?

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

Yes. Excluding the bltouch and extension cable, obviously.

Are you announcing a new printer model by naming your printer CR 10S V2 in the firmware instead of CR10 V2? :)

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

Haha. Yeah I slipped in an S there. Considering the Cr-10 was single Z and the vr-10s was dual z (with 2560) they should have called this the cr-10s v2. That's my excuse anyways

@michaelknight2897

4 жыл бұрын

@@Jason-yn6oy is the CR-10s the marlin config you are using then as your base install?

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

@@michaelknight2897 Correct.

How about some test prints?

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

They will have the same quality as any titan aero or e3d V6 setup and is largely going to come down to your settings and calibration. The main difference the dual drive gears and constrained filament path will make is when printing flexibles.

thank god i see this manual, so i dont have to buy hemera, instead, i just buy cr10 v3 that already direct drive right from the box

Is the mounting bracket of V2 the same as a 10S?

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

no. They use a different X carriage

@SteinerSE

4 жыл бұрын

@@Jason-yn6oy Dang, I'm having such a hard time deciding which printer to order, I thought there was a slight point in favor that the V2 used a standard CR10 brackets o there was all those options, but now both the CR10V2 and the Ender 5 Plus have new and different brackets equalizing them in that respect :P

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

@@SteinerSE to further confuse things, another option is to.slap whatever bracket you want on it. A cr-10s bracket is like $10.

@SteinerSE

4 жыл бұрын

@@Jason-yn6oy Lol, now now, don't be too obvious and make sense and stuff. :)

Do you notice a slight clicking sound when doing retractions with the Hemera?

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

Interesting you bring this up. On a different machine I've been running almost nonstop since the hemera was released, I do notice a click on retract but only sometimes and only when I retract FAST and above 0.8mm. The click isn't the same sound as skipping a step but it also doesn't seem to have any performance implication so I'm not too concerned. Something to keep an eye on.

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

Quick follow up: I've seen reports of the pressed gears coming loose in the hemera. I would double check to see that's not an issue on yours. We haven't experienced that issue ourselves, nor on any of the units we have sold so far....but things can happen.

Can you do a marlin 2.0 install on the V2 video?

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

This is Marlin 2.0

@michaelknight2897

4 жыл бұрын

How did you install it? I have downloaded atom and PlatformIO and I am trying to create a project. I dont know what motherboard to chose. I am confused by it all to be honest.

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

@@michaelknight2897 in this video I'm using vscode, not atom. Set it up following the platformio instructions to a T. I cover everything else you need in this video. Obviously what you see will be quite different in Atom. I even show you what board to choose at 46:25 or so

@michaelknight2897

4 жыл бұрын

@@Jason-yn6oy I see that now. Thank you.

235 $ CAD for this?... hum... too bad... is it even worth it

What wasn't explained was why I should go through all of this trouble in the first place.

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

That wasn't the purpose of the video. This was simply an install guide.

Thumbs down because you skip over listening the belt tensioner and idk how to do that exactly so now I gotta go find another video and then come back to this one 🤦🏼‍♂️ could’ve just done it for doing it sake

@williamshook4630

3 жыл бұрын

The firmware section is riddled with errors. Invert_EO, Max Grid, Linear Advance, Bed size, Even the name of the printer is off....I'm a bit shocked that an expert would make that many errors and leave them like that without even a note to correct them.

This is the second video where I've seen you guys bastardize the bltouch cable connection You do know they have a kit for that And why would you want to upgrade or actually change the hotend Creality did an amazing job with this printer it only needed a firmware upgrade to Marlin 2.0.1 and a heat chamber and I'm using everything from ABS to PC with no problems

@Jason-yn6oy

4 жыл бұрын

There's a reason you don't run hotter than 250 on the stock hotend....it's ptfe-lined where the PTFE goes all the way to, and touches the nozzle. (not all metal). PTFE typically begins to break down at 240c and by 250c it's offgassing noxious fumes and will deform and you'll end up with a jam and a mess...it's only a matter of time. Don't take my word for it, a 2 second google search will show you the same info. This is why Capricorn tube exists since it's supposed to be stable for up to 270c or so. The stock hotend setup is not direct drive, that's the reason I'm doing this conversion in addition to requiring an all metal hotend for high temp materials. We also get the benefit of 4x the precision as far as extrusion goes due to the gearing As for the btlouch, I could have easily pulled the pins out and popped them into a 2 pin connector but many people won't have those handy, so I did this "hack"

This extruder will completely jam your filament ! Don’t buy

@TheSolongsidekick

4 жыл бұрын

Except it won't.