Nice video. I just started using the quick kick on hot coats since I saw if this. I like it, flows out better. Ive learned too a thinner hot coat is the way to go. I used to try to put it down thick so I had less chance to hit the weave but it works against you cause it doesnt lay as flat, more sanding and more chance of hitting that glass.

Thanks for doing this.

Best hot coat tutorial around! Thank you!

@FiberglassFlorida

2 жыл бұрын

Gordo knows his stuff for sure!

Parabéns pelo trabalho e boas ondas!

Awesome viedo, do you have any advice on relocating a epoxy firewire tember tech? Id like make it new again .

Is there a ballpark ratio of volume mixed per length of board? And HELLO to fiberglass Florida, who has redirected and walked me through countless rookie mistakes. I think I’ve got it this time.

@Surfmus

4 жыл бұрын

12-16 ounces depending on length of the board.

Thank you!!! Oh BTW, I believe 1 mL Additive F to1 oz hardener is roughly 30:1?

I swore by Resin Research for a few years, even with add F did an okay job. But now I use Green Light's and is way better than Resin Research. I even use their hardener with West System, because I use what I have and kicks beautifully, leaves a great leveling with no imperfections.

Do you guys use additive F for the lamination phase?

guys, great vid, but after mixing the resin, stirring it up and getting air in de mix, do you wait for the bubbles to go out of the mixture? or you just use it straight away with air in the mix? And I get a lot of dust in my hotcoat. but can it be that it is already in the brush? it's instantly on the board... lots of dust particles.... super annoying..

Pretty Rad !!

After you apply the sand/filler coat (hot coat), what if you want a shiny gloss coat after your done sanding? Would you just sand and polish or would you apply a separate gloss coat afterwards? What type of epoxy resin would you use? Or would you use polyester? I've used polyester for a gloss coat after the sanding coat and it has a nice look, like was done in the early 90's. Thanks

@surfershaper

Жыл бұрын

Poly doesn't fully bond to epoxy. Epoxy for as many coats as you like. Measured and mixed accurately, and with proper air temp, it cures and sands perfectly

@nickhlawka7073

Жыл бұрын

@@surfershaper People would tell me that but they were amazed when I did what they said couldnt be done. If you do it correctly polyester will stick very well to epoxy. My question is what do they use for a shiny gloss coat?

@surfershaper

Жыл бұрын

@@nickhlawka7073 yes brother I've used poly over epoxy before as well, like most all glassers did when epoxy was new to the industry in the 90's. Which is when I converted. I get amazing results with epoxy filler coats since then, knowing now the temps it performs best at, glassing and curing included. They add strength to the laminate compared to poly coats. I don't polish boards with compounds to finish glossy. I don't know why epoxy wouldn't polish out to a high gloss as long as it's mixed and cured properly like I mentioned. I use no additives in my filler coats, but they're mixed and cured exactly the same way every time. Only then will you achieve the strength specs they get in a lab and the flawless results you're after. There's only one way to learn it. Do it!

"The difference between PE resin and epoxy resin hot coats?" Yeah, you don't get cancer from epoxy. I've gone completely to epoxy in every step for the past 6 or 7 years. Epoxy is so much better in terms of durability, safety and environmentally friendliness.

Can I get a link to buy all this stuff.?

How long after laminating the fibreglass should you wait to do the hot coat? then how long after that to do a gloss coat?

@FiberglassFlorida

2 жыл бұрын

You want the lamination to be what we call "thump print tacky" meaning if you were to touch it, you could leave a thumbprint in the resin but it would not come off on your finger. This varies between epoxy and polyester resins. Epoxy could take a couple hours where polyester might only take 40 minutes.

I have a question about hotcoat if it's necessary or i can use epoxy as a hotcoat given it's waterproof

Is the hot coat resin the same resin you use to laminate

Nice

how were you able to get a colored logo under the fiberglass even though you tinted the resin - wouldn't it discolor the logo

@pt7324

4 жыл бұрын

i'm guessing the decals were positioned and applied with resin after the tint coat had set?

@joeblow1942

3 жыл бұрын

Maybe the color is acrylic paint on the blank?

@guyshred3949

3 жыл бұрын

printed in colored ink bros

I just boucht the quick kick from resin research. I noticed that the viscosity is really really thick... storaged at room temp of 20⁰C. Is this normal?

So wait, you laminate with standard Epoxy lam resin, then sand that? In my experience, lam resin never gets hard unless you ad surfacing agent (I've only used Poly resin, so I don't know if they work way differently). Does the epoxy resin get hard without surfacing agent? Or do you just sand the goo? Haha. Please explain?

@Surfmus

4 жыл бұрын

Epoxy resin is a 2 one mix. It gets hard with half of the amount used. Let me explain: If part A is 10 ounces then part B. the hardener is 5oz. Don't get hung up in the terminology. Lam resin, etc. When I laminate with Polyester Resin, I do it with Silmar 249B all the way to the hotcoat. I use surface agent as well for better sanding.

@jonwikan3986

3 жыл бұрын

I will clear this up a bit. Epoxy is not a blanket 2:1 mix. I use 1:1, 2:1, 3:1, and every manufacturer has different ratios depending on the chemical make up and usually each ratio has different set times and properties. Once mixed, depending on the temperature, you have a certain amount of time to get it on. Some are super slow, some are medium, some fast, some kick in 5 minutes. Always add the hardener first. To remove bubbles once applied; a quick pass over with a torch very, very quickly.

@delvallo9652

3 жыл бұрын

@@Surfmus not all epoxy resin are 2:1, depends on brand (i.e. total boat resin I have is 5:1)

Hi! Thanks for this awesome video. I have a question for you guys. After a couple of ding repairs in the pin tale of my retro fish, I noticed I have lost the super sharp original line in the rail. now it is a just bit more rounded or smoother than originally, but nothing dramatic. If I want to rebuild this sharp line in the rail again, should I hot coat both deck and bottom sides again in the rail area? or just the bottom rail area with tape in the line? Is it a normal practice to sharp the edges or it doesn't worth it? Greetings from The Netherlands.

@bellpaleale

3 жыл бұрын

I try to keep the factory edges as much as possible. If I'm working on a ding repair, I just use tape to build a short "dam" on the bottom that is in line with the rest of the edge from the other parts of the board and then sand it down to match. I don't really think it matters which coat of resin you use for this. The hard edges are key for water to release at that point and integral for the overall design, otherwise it will wrap like a longboard rail. I'm not that good of a surfer so I'm not sure if I would notice the difference or not, but may as well try to match.

@marianogalan9332

3 жыл бұрын

@@bellpaleale Thanks a lot!

@bellpaleale

3 жыл бұрын

@@marianogalan9332 Here's a good depiction of what I use for inspiration at 1:29. kzread.info/dash/bejne/mIOc1bhtm5Ccaaw.html

Very interesting, thank you! Are u not afraid that the Aceton will "influence" the core via possible pinholes if you wipe it after sanding / prior to hot coating?

@pearsonmarine5565

3 жыл бұрын

I would think his wipe is wet but not saturated. Just enough to grab some dust and grease on the tops of the fibreglass cloth weave. I’ve learned the hard way painting boats that too much acetone on the wipe alters the fine finish. I could see my swipes from wiping in the reflection. And I was allowed to use acetone in that instance. Moderation and balance in the prep is key. Just don’t soak your wipe, and use air

@Principe6900

3 жыл бұрын

@@pearsonmarine5565 Interesting, yes, have the same experience when working with epoxy and acetone over wood cores .. clear coat heals it however. But, why I was writing this, with my 1st surfboard I had in some places the XPS foam / core dissolved below the laminate ... it was glassed with one layer of 200 g/m2 ... and my cloth was very likely "too saturated" ... :) ... I have learned later that the laminate over a foam core of a surfboard is not necessarily water tight from guys who did a lot of boards ... I was told that the existance of pinholes very much depend on the temperature of the core prior to lamination (and putting it in a colder place when the exposy is not yet hard) and thereafter the same is true for coating/spray gun to get in water tight ... thus the risk of using Acetone at this stage (in the video) ... is not necessarily negligible ... was my thought ...

@Principe6900

3 жыл бұрын

@Darwin Crew with aceton? :)

Super cool! I thought I heard somewhere that acetone and epoxy are not safe and create toxic fumes, is that not the case?

What grit sandpaper do you sand with after the hot coat is drued

@dylanvela2650

4 жыл бұрын

Dried*

@FiberglassFlorida

4 жыл бұрын

Start with 120, then 150, 180 and 220

@dylanvela2650

4 жыл бұрын

Fiberglass Florida 👍🏽

@Hundert1

4 жыл бұрын

@@FiberglassFlorida What are you trying to accomplish by the sanding ? After the sanding will you buff out all scratches with some compound? I'm using West Systems 5:1 slow formula and looking for a nice even clear, smooth glass finish product. We have surfskis. Thanks

1ml per ounce. That's why he's the (measurement) mixmaster!

Does anyone know how to prevent or why my hot coats are forming wrinkles? The wrinkles form mostly on or near the rails but also randomly on the middle of the deck. It's so disappointing when you lay down a perfect looking hotcoat and come back to wrinkles everywhere.

@Quickrex

11 ай бұрын

I’m using a anti bubbles product developed for epoxy resin hot coats that you spray on just after you lay the epoxy coat. Spray it on and if you see any more bubbles forming then spray on the effected spot (max 2 times or you risk the opposite effect) haven’t used on a surfboard. But I’m doing skateboard decks and of course much less surface areas and it works perfect. But if you buy a special 3D epoxy product, a little more expensive but worth the extra cost, you don’t get wrinkles. I’m in Europe and use Eurotex products. If you are in US guess you find something similar in Home Depot.

how long does it take to dry using those 2 chemicals, please info?

@surfershaper

Жыл бұрын

Depends on ambient air temp, and cure booth temp, if you have one. I can sand in an hour, no add f and never "tacky"(?)

Where to get Additvie F in Europe?

@FiberglassFlorida

4 жыл бұрын

Im not too sure but I can try to find some info for you, I started googling it and there may be some options. www.seabase.eu/shop/additive_f_epoxy_resin_surfacing_agent/

@questsurfboards7482

4 жыл бұрын

Seabase

Beautiful board. I just had a skim board made for me and when I picked it up you can see what appears to be a perfect imprint of tape around the perimeter of the board where the cut lap would be. It’s super obvious. Also the actual rails of The board in its finished state are scuffed snd freshly sanded snd look unfinished compared to the high gloss finish on the entire rest of the board. I asked the gentleman who made it and he said it’s normal to sand the rails snd I that my Surf board Was complete. It looks really bad. I wish I could post a picture I glop

What does it mean for the risin to kick ?

@tedfort1698

Жыл бұрын

It's generally meant as the point where the resin isn't workable. Not cured fully, but starting to set.

Boa Noite, porque não usam máscara?

Is it ok to mix styrene to epoxy resin?

@Surfmus

4 жыл бұрын

Use Additive F which is Xylene.

y la mask? para cuando

What I don't understand is why you would put tons of resin on a (carbon) board. Doesn't this add a lot of weight and only serves the purpose of esthetics?

@daliks

Жыл бұрын

most of it is sanded off again. After laminating, we do a coat to fill out the weave and to make the board more even. the hotcoat then is sanded very thoroughly and superflat with about 80 grit. about half the resincoat is already gone then. this almost always leaves us with some burnthroughs and some low spots, so we coat again. The additive f in epoxy has some of the same functions as styrene used in poly finishcoat± it thins out the resin and lowers the tension, providing a thinner (lighter) coat. then we sand again, only with higher grits and then polish. after that, there's not as much resin on there as you might think. These resincoats are necessary to keep the board watertight, just laminating is insufficient.

that is the SHORTEST mixing of epoxy i have ever seen. to get maximal strength i would always advise to mix for at least a minute. There is no way both parts have thoroughly mixed like this.. it might kick, but i cant imagine it reaching maximal strength.

Mililitres and ounces. You guys should work for NASA.

Make it wooden with the help of the Woodglut instructions.

I don't understand, you're not wearing a mask? Epoxy is not toxic?

What a scam🤣🤣🤣🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

@daliks

Жыл бұрын

what is? your profile?

Have. you ever heard of Epoxy being toxic and considered wearing a mask??? ☠️☠️

acetone no good brah, alcohol bettah