How to Heel & Toe hook || The two most powerful climbing techniques

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Timestamps:
0:00 Why these are important
2:45 How to: Heel Hook
3:20 How to: Toe Hook
3:45 Training them
4:03 Practical examples
Today we'll discuss the two most important climbing techniques, heel & toe hook. We will also look at how I apply them in a practical scenario and some tricks I use to figure out the details behind the techniques.
My gear:
Favorite shoes
MadRock Drone madrock.com/co...
MadRock Drone CS madrock.com/co...
Chalk Bucket
madrock.com/co...
Chalk bag
madrock.com/co...
Everything shot on Sony A7SIII with Tamron lenses.
PATREON LINK HERE: / emilabrahamsson
Any support is incredibly welcomed and appreciated. You all make the content happen!
Instagram:
/ emil_abrahamsson_
/ cordiclimbs

Пікірлер: 95

  • @hannahmorrisbouldering
    @hannahmorrisbouldering Жыл бұрын

    Hereby awarding Emil with the ‘most entertaining brand integrator’ award 👑

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Haha thanks a ton. Miss the two of you already!

  • @vapofusion
    @vapofusion Жыл бұрын

    More videos like this mate! Some amazingly simple, but informative vids that explain some of the areas that some KZreadrs gloss over. I am a beginner climber and found most of your videos so helpful with understanding the mindset and how to go about improving as a climber. Top notch content as always 👍

  • @vapofusion

    @vapofusion

    Жыл бұрын

    I learned more in this vid about how you explained foot placement and how to precisely move my feet on tricky holds than anything I've watched.

  • @Calle.Andreasson
    @Calle.Andreasson Жыл бұрын

    Grym video! Du lyckas verkligen vara informativ och underhållande på samma gång Emil. Extra kul när du spelar in på Grepp där jag själv klättrar. En himla trevlig plats att spendera tid och svett på. Awesome video! You really manage to be informative and entertaining at the same time Emil. Extra fun to see recordings from Grepp where I climb myself. Such a lovely place to spend time and sweat.

  • @JamkoOfficial
    @JamkoOfficial Жыл бұрын

    Really appreciate all the effort you put into your videos Emil! I'd like to request a breakdown of the technique for outdoor mantle top outs as a future vid please. Keep up the great work!

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Fun one! I'll see what I can do

  • @TheReggaesauce
    @TheReggaesauce Жыл бұрын

    Fair play Emil, I actually listended to part of an AG1 ad today! 😆

  • @Abdullah_X.8
    @Abdullah_X.8 Жыл бұрын

    Hello Emil, I have been climbing for about 6 months now and I just wanted to tell you you’re one of my favorite climbers to watch and I love when you drop informational videos like these they help me grow my knowledge and IQ on the wall even more so thank you!

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Thanks a ton homie! Good luck with your climbing journey my friend

  • @Abdullah_X.8

    @Abdullah_X.8

    Жыл бұрын

    @@EmilAbrahamsson thank you!!

  • @aviduke
    @aviduke4 ай бұрын

    Starting to climb roofs. Need to work my heals ans toes. Will try to take these on board

  • @Evan-Lennert
    @Evan-Lennert Жыл бұрын

    Gonna send this video to my friend who refuses to use heels regardless of situation

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Sounds good, they have to learn! Heel hooks are too good to not do

  • @Nicoandthepage
    @Nicoandthepage Жыл бұрын

    This one really got me hooked.

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Cheers homie!

  • @niklaslins99
    @niklaslins99 Жыл бұрын

    Wow, that's the first ad I watched from beginning to end. Nice job Emil!

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Love that mate, thanks for letting me know!

  • @int0x21
    @int0x21 Жыл бұрын

    Your videos from Grepp is always nice ! should come and do a video of the black circle ! :)

  • @karimchahine4883
    @karimchahine4883 Жыл бұрын

    I have the impression you might be quite biased towards not only bouldering (I would argue lead climbers care more about other things), but also compression and overhanging boulders, for which of course hooks are going to be fundamental. I would say the dropknee is a much more fundamental technique to learn. All this is to say that now we want a technique tier list!

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Ooohh that's a fun one. I'll put it on my list! And... you might be right haha. This video is certainly more dedicated towards bouldering, and the techniques are less important the more vertical terrain we're on

  • @karimchahine4883

    @karimchahine4883

    Жыл бұрын

    @@EmilAbrahamsson Great! Sounds like a fun vid. Agreed! I personally struggle on those kind of boulders and indeed I'm often not sure what the best thing to do with my feet is, always seems like there's so many options. I think those are highly technical climbs (+quite physical). Currently working on it though!

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    @@karimchahine4883 cheers mate! Haha I actually got so excited for your idea I’m already writing up a script for it. It’s perfect!

  • @evanpowers1795

    @evanpowers1795

    Жыл бұрын

    I'd agree with the dropknee statement for sport routes. But when it comes to steep sport heel + toehooks are extremely useful for resting. But any good steep sport climber will know, KNEEBAR (if you can find them) will save that pump!!! Good breathing and shaking techniques are also key!!!

  • @karimchahine4883

    @karimchahine4883

    Жыл бұрын

    @@EmilAbrahamsson haha wow I'm honoured! Have fun writing it! I think it has potential

  • @TodayWeLearn
    @TodayWeLearn Жыл бұрын

    Hands down the funniest brand integration I’ve seen in a while. Almost spat out my chalk

  • @JPo.404
    @JPo.404 Жыл бұрын

    Emil has got bars for days 🔥

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    haha thanks for the love homie

  • @maximedelmas
    @maximedelmas Жыл бұрын

    3:31 this slowmo shot is beautiful!

  • @AllegraClimbingPsychologist
    @AllegraClimbingPsychologist Жыл бұрын

    Coffee with Moca! I see you are a man of culture, my friend! Really nice video! I love both techniques but I find my shoes lacking in support for both of them. Looking now to find a better pair for me!

  • @SnapDash
    @SnapDash Жыл бұрын

    I was so proud of using a right hook to get through a crux... But then I saw my pal do the route, and find an easy hold off on the left that I'd missed! Still, I am glad I got the practice; heel- and toe-hooks are definitely high on my to-improve list. Thanks for the excellent video-

  • @TheHujosh
    @TheHujosh Жыл бұрын

    This is the only channel where I dont skip the sponsored content... Emil should receive a raise for this creativity :D

  • @berzseb

    @berzseb

    Жыл бұрын

    That’s fully right!!! I do also skip them always but on that way , imagine, I watched more times. 😅 Yeah, cool creativity Emil!

  • @eurekaflows
    @eurekaflows Жыл бұрын

    Emil sneakily including Soudain Seul in his montage of 9A boulders 👀🤫😂

  • @sideshowfrost
    @sideshowfrost Жыл бұрын

    Welcome to the UK!

  • @fysio_Kajsa
    @fysio_Kajsa Жыл бұрын

    Great vid. Good breakdown of the techniques. I really like the way you explain and happy to see you at grepp since then I can get the chance to see you in action IRL And thank you for actually making the ad enjoyable

  • @TheOdekirkian
    @TheOdekirkian Жыл бұрын

    You’ve gotta come do a trip state side and see all the wonderful bouldering we have here like Joes Valley and Bishop!!

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    i'd love to, just gotta find the time!

  • @SelcraigClimbs
    @SelcraigClimbs Жыл бұрын

    That rap hahaha absolutely fyah ❤️‍🔥

  • @ryanmorrison8833
    @ryanmorrison8833 Жыл бұрын

    Hmm... will there be a video about that clip of you on the Burden replica at 2:16? O.o

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Oh yeah! Also with a big twist to it.. probably coming out in about 2 weeks!

  • @tienyichi
    @tienyichi Жыл бұрын

    Came for some climbing, stayed for the rapping 😂

  • @KirstenRietveld
    @KirstenRietveld Жыл бұрын

    I really struggle with toehooks that are close-by making it hard to actually stretch my leg. Any tips for that?

  • @Sepp2009
    @Sepp2009 Жыл бұрын

    Can I ask a different climbing question, not related to this video? Not sure how else to get in touch with you... My question is: what is the correct way to "half crimp"? I know, everybody says that the fingers should bend 90°, but what about the wrist? for me hanging with completely straight wrists feels good, but not that much stronger than open hand. So i think the mechanical advantage from the half crimp comes from bending the wrist aswell, right?. For me this feels a bit more sketchy and I think of it as "not so safe" as it's closer to a full crimp position. So which way is the correct way to train? TLDR: my half crimp with straight wrist feels very weak on the wall on tiny crimps, am I crimping wrong?

  • @sthrbnmickson5474
    @sthrbnmickson5474 Жыл бұрын

    08:10 how the left bicep quivers haha

  • @njpag
    @njpag Жыл бұрын

    Great video! Bit of a side question but I'm curious if you do much 'classic' strength training beyond climbing especially in the legs to get some hamstring/glutes pulling power or does it just come with more climbing?

  • @shmelvin4659

    @shmelvin4659

    Жыл бұрын

    The amount of pulling power in your legs is gonna be more then enough to help you out and the the con of increase the size of them would imo be way worse than just having slightly week heel hooks

  • @alvarobriceno4500
    @alvarobriceno4500 Жыл бұрын

    Awesome

  • @giesskannenbauer
    @giesskannenbauer Жыл бұрын

    That AG1 ad had serious Macka B - Medical Monday vibes! Love it.

  • @Cr1ms0nSE
    @Cr1ms0nSE Жыл бұрын

    Awesome video. Been trying to figure out some training to get better on those hooks. Cause while it may be true that just doing them trains the actual technique, getting your muscles to the point that you can really engage is a whole different story. Any suggestions? PS: 3 of your 4 favorite great links are either wrong or not available anymore 😢

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Firstly, thanks a ton for bringing the link to my attention! Weird.. Secondly, for heel hooks there's tons of hamstring workouts that do help, and one big thing I would say are deadlifts. I've definitely noticed gains from it. For toe hooks it is a lot more tricky, first off you need a good shoe for it, and then I think since it's a fairly passive engagement you really need a lot of time under tension with it, so like stretching it almost and just holding very very easy positions frequently.

  • @ThundersLeague
    @ThundersLeague Жыл бұрын

    How do you deal with toehooks with more aggressive climbing shoes? (Ex: Solutions) I have 2 major problems: - If the shoe is too small, my toes are curled, so I toe hook with the bones/joints of my toes. This is super uncomfortable/painful. - If my shoe is bigger, my big toe moves a bit inside the shoe, when toehooking, and now there's pressure on the top part of my toe, near the nail. This happens in all cases when the hold doesn't have an amazing edge.

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Hard to say, aside from "try a different shoe", which isn't really helpful :P I don't have a specific technique to avoid pain, but it definitely hurts differently with heel and toe hooks depending on the shoe you use. A big part of why I use mad rock (drones specifically) is because of this

  • @ThundersLeague

    @ThundersLeague

    Жыл бұрын

    ​@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks for the comment. Yeah, I also think "different shoe" is the answer. The softness of the shoe, specifically the toebox, has a huge impact. One thing I noticed in the video, you tend to toe hook with the inside of your foot. The pressure is centered around the big toe. This makes sense, because it's also where the toe patch is located. Is that true, or is it just the camera angles? (Ex: ~7:00) When I toe hook, I think I do it will the whole foot, so the pressure is evenly distributed across all toes (and that's why the knuckles on the smaller toes hurt). I will have to try this. Perhaps I've been doing toehooks wrong for years 😅

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    @@ThundersLeague Oh interesting! You might've just provided the answer yourself. I toe hook much more with the big toe part of each foot

  • @mikeminson6250
    @mikeminson6250 Жыл бұрын

    “ChatGPT, write me a rap about AG1” lol

  • @jaisinghvi7860
    @jaisinghvi7860 Жыл бұрын

    Dude you are crazy !

  • @Mike-oz4cv
    @Mike-oz4cv Жыл бұрын

    The big problem is that heelhooks and toehooks usually require a huge amount of flexibility to be done properly.

  • @maximedelmas

    @maximedelmas

    Жыл бұрын

    Sometimes it's a problem of body positionning. You can be unable to heel hook because your hips are placed in a certain way, and the second you turn them, it becomes easy.

  • @zacharylaschober

    @zacharylaschober

    Жыл бұрын

    in as much as there is a "limit" heel or toe hook placement, definitely good flexibility is valuable, but there is a significant technical aspect to exploiting any amount of flexibility. I find many climbers who have certainly greater range with the hips to get a heel in, but I can more readily rotate myself to provide the extra range as well as better dial a heel placement to get the most out of this.

  • @TheBenjaminsky
    @TheBenjaminsky Жыл бұрын

    Heel hooks tend to cause a lot of knee pain. Any suggestions to avoid this?

  • @ravenruppie96

    @ravenruppie96

    Жыл бұрын

    Gotta strengthen the area with similar movements and less weight

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Time under tension! I'd say a big recommendation is what I mentioned here in the video, make sure to always do a few light-weight easy heel hooks in the beginning of the session. If the only time you do heel hooks is when it's forced on a boulder you're not gonna be conditioned for it!

  • @loganwassill7003
    @loganwassill7003 Жыл бұрын

    Let’s see Emil on V17

  • @kajesimpson126
    @kajesimpson126 Жыл бұрын

    If I could subscribe twice I would.

  • @apolyedapolyed7524
    @apolyedapolyed7524 Жыл бұрын

    heel hook, toe hook.

  • @jonnes__4657
    @jonnes__4657 Жыл бұрын

    But the toe hook unfortunately is for me a bit painful. .

  • @robinsonnyaupane3380
    @robinsonnyaupane3380 Жыл бұрын

    We all know that one mf who can put their heel above their head on climbs. (I need to train flexibility)

  • @chrille5551
    @chrille5551 Жыл бұрын

    Couldn't you argue that a bunch of different hand grip "techniques" are equally or more important if we are going to rank "techniques" and then list heel and toe hooks? Like brother I think you use the "crimp" technique on a few of these

  • @philipegoulet448

    @philipegoulet448

    Жыл бұрын

    I think a video saying that crimping is the most important technique and showing you how to crimp would be quite pointless on this channel

  • @chrille5551

    @chrille5551

    Жыл бұрын

    @@philipegoulet448 I'm just pointing out that the title is a bit strange

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Oh I just wouldn’t think of crimping, or grabbing slopers, punches etc as a technique, that’s more of a “grip type”. But I guess the word can be used quite broadly though 😅 considering there’s tons of technique involved in crimping.

  • @basketman52
    @basketman52 Жыл бұрын

    First

  • @yograndom6928
    @yograndom69283 ай бұрын

    AG1 has insufficient scientific backing, and does not provide enough of any single of the 75 ingredients to reach visible benefit.

  • @jonathanrossddsmhs1271
    @jonathanrossddsmhs1271 Жыл бұрын

    Adam Ondra: kneebar b!t€#!!!

  • @sCnInfinity
    @sCnInfinity Жыл бұрын

    Came for the climbing, stayed for the ad 🎙

  • @sovereignyx3158
    @sovereignyx3158 Жыл бұрын

    Why is there so much AG1 advertising among boulderers lately? 😢 Can't you just ask your viewers more directly if they have a few euros left that they could donate? …Instead, a product is advertised that has been proven to have almost no positive properties at all, except for placebo. Doesn't that feel like exploiting your community a little bit? :/ 107€ per month could be much better spent for most of the people than purchase a ripoff product.

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    I think we have different perspectives on the product, and that's alright. The people I've talked to have all, off camera, in person, told me that they really noticed some great benefits from it and they use it regularly. I've also seen benefits myself and for people around me, so I'm psyched on it. If it's placebo or not I can't say, but if it works for literally everyone I've talked to it works well enough for me! There's too many opinions, "shook"-news and critics online for me to take them seriously, and if I trusted the online community I'd be on a ketogenic, carnivore, 1 meal a day - diet by now :-P Everyone has a perspective and individual needs, best is to try stuff for yourself and see imo!

  • @mongoose1804
    @mongoose1804 Жыл бұрын

    Why did he start rapping?????

  • @vegetable1335
    @vegetable1335 Жыл бұрын

    first

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Tight fight

  • @euerhenning5780
    @euerhenning5780 Жыл бұрын

    Guess i made it to be first Edit: guess i did not actually.

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    Haha your efforts were appreciated though!

  • @basketman52

    @basketman52

    Жыл бұрын

    Ggwp EuerHenning gl in your next one!

  • @euerhenning5780

    @euerhenning5780

    Жыл бұрын

    @@basketman52 🤝 💖

  • @fiddzels
    @fiddzels Жыл бұрын

    World hardest boulder only has a dyno i think your wrong abort this sorry…

  • @SnowmansApartment
    @SnowmansApartment Жыл бұрын

    Sorry dude, just can‘t watch any more green stuff ads, this stuffs everywhere..

  • @EmilAbrahamsson

    @EmilAbrahamsson

    Жыл бұрын

    I know they're popping up everywhere. But common, not even the rap got you?? Dang I tried so hard...

  • @klausweiskopf2184

    @klausweiskopf2184

    Жыл бұрын

    At least it’s not Soylent Green - yet…

  • @stf6086

    @stf6086

    Жыл бұрын

    @@EmilAbrahamsson Emil, Please educate yourself about These Vitamin and Mineral Supplements and decide if you want to represent them. There is a lot of research around, despite being useless for most People, this stuff can actually be harmful in some Cases. I love your content and am happy for you to get sponsors, but this Scam product triggers me so hard. You can do better than that. ✌️

  • @janweickert1765

    @janweickert1765

    Жыл бұрын

    ​@@stf6086I am also really sceptical about it. I hope you are wrong and it doesn't harm anybody

  • @stf6086

    @stf6086

    Жыл бұрын

    @@janweickert1765 there is a lot of Information, podcasts and Research out, dont just believe me. make sure it is a Credible source . Taking to much Vitamin Supplements to long is assumed to increase the Risk of Cancer some groups.