Another great demonstration easy to follow 👍

@phoenixforge5944

3 жыл бұрын

Cheers George

Very nice project and very cool video today. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Keep Making. God Bless.

Will thats great, the bend quench, heat, quench, bend, heat, quench and bend again! Thats where I go wrong every time, do not get the sequence of bends and quenches in the right order! Going to spend a lot more time watching your videos! Thanks mate!

Excellent explanation! 💯

Just a few things for those doing this as part of your City and Guilds Level 2: 1) You will almost certainly find it easier doing this piece in the following order: set down and form the round section of material for the eye; then the first taper from the newly formed round section to the 70mm centre mark; then form the eye; then forge the taper from the end to the 70mm centre mark. Holding tapers is a faff and leaving the other end of the work as a flat section will make your life easier, especially under exam conditions as well. 2) The tapers have to maintain the parent thickness, as with the legs on the staple piece. 3) The specs say that the eye must be 10mm. Get yourself a 10mm key or 10mm round stock and make sure that you can just about fit it inside. It is perfectly acceptable both for your board piece and during your exam to use these to check the size and there is nothing against using a key to finish up to eye so that it's circular. What you must make sure is that your eye can fit an 8mm key. If it's slightly too small for the required 10, don't worry as the book says you can have +-2mm. Just make sure it is not smaller than 8mm! 4) Make sure that the eye is in line with the tapered section before you start bending the hook. Once you've got that hook formed, it's harder to fix the alignment of the eye. If it isn't quite straight - as with the unwelded eye piece - take a short heat around the base of the eye, then knock it in line. 5) For a good, acceptable board piece, you have to have a straight line running through the centre of the eye, through the thickest part of the first bend, all the way to your 70mm centre mark which should be at the base of the hook.

Great tutorial! Would slitting and drifting the eye have any benefits or disadvantages?

@phoenixforge5944

3 жыл бұрын

By forging the material down I was able to go from 6mm flat up to 10mm round bar. If I punched it would stay at 6mm but wouldn't have a split. For its use either way would be strong enough