thanks for making the video. I am no mechanic, however you made this video with simple easy to follow instructions.

Thanks man... just changed out my thermostat in my 2001... talk about a POS draining system with that little drain hole... took forever... your vid helped tremendously!

I just today discovered my coolant is just as yucky!!!!! So now I know what I need to do, thanks man!!!!!!!!

Should always replace the hoses when doing a flush, so stuff don’t get into the new coolant from old hoses. Plus it will flow better.

Thank you much. Changed plugs. Previous owner obviously didn't know to. Not much plug left. Called our local Chrysler for antifreeze. Never returned my calls. Their service sucks to. No misfires.

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

+Joseph Werner for 3.9/5.2/5.9 engines, put green stuff. For 4.7 and 3.7 engines, put in the HOAT. The newer engines have dissimilar metals between the block and the heads that regular coolant can create havoc on.

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

I don't recall there being any kind of splash guard other than the fan shroud

Very helpful information. I think I will try to do this on my own now thanks to your video.

wonder if he disposed coolant down the storm drain?

THIS REALLY PAINED ME TO WATCH .

@6speeddakota

9 жыл бұрын

may I ask why?

@spoonyluv5531

9 жыл бұрын

***** OH I DONT KNOW ..... I GUESS BECAUSE I AM A 35 YEAR CHRYSLER AND ASE MASTER TECHNICIAN

@6speeddakota

9 жыл бұрын

It pains me as well to know that he doesn't take good care of his vehicle. I can only do what is in the budget range

Step 10 - Re-installing radiator hoses... You forgot to mention the most important step!!! Put a BIG old gob of spit inside the hose and swirl it around with your finger... (or on the flange) and the hose will slide right back on with far less wiggling and pushing.

@VTwin4Christ

8 жыл бұрын

And if someone says that saliva will contaminate the coolant system... You will officially lose your man card! Because men who would say something like that may be the same type of men who use scented hand sanitizer from bed/bath and beyond. (just saying) LOL

Ciao 6speeddakota, video very professional, congratulations! from Italy

Thank you friend, this was a well done video

Did you know there are engine block drain plugs on each side of the engine block? If you want to do a complete job, those plugs should be removed in order to fully drain the engine block of coolant and refill it with a 50/50 mix of manufacturers spec antifreeze and low mineral water (distilled water).

SOLID , Good Coverage!

System may not rust out so bad if use distilled water INSTEAD of tap water...

@6speeddakota

9 жыл бұрын

Amanda Barnett I used to work at a Honda dealership, and all they used was tap water. Here in Vancouver, we have very soft water, so it's not a big issue. Areas with hard water can have a very detrimental effect because of the high mineral content, but here it's not an issue. I've done this for years without any problems.

it's a automatic.. it was a bit low on antifreeze and now it runs a little less then half, I'll try a new thermostat.. I appreciate the response thank you

Where is the ambient temperature sensor located on the 3.9l ???

O and for anyone outvthere , changing the TPS , throttle position sensor maybe solve a few probkems with this engine like rough shifting , or rough warm idle !

Thanks great reminder i have been paying for colored water 50 . 50 prestone crap no wonder my dodge is blessing

Awesome video heloed me out alot thanks 6 SPEED DAKOTA!!!!!

Got the HOAT. Done. For everyone"s info Had truck to the auto place that sell tools with a lifetime replacement on tools. Said I have 2mm or less on rear brakes. Friend pulled drums. The old shoes on the truck now have more material then the new shoes. I took pictures. They lied and this store has been lying to customers forever. Thanks 6 Speed.

Badass video man very detailed great job ! I will do change mind on Saturday and use ur video as a guide...

6speed... love your presentation. I need to do the same to my 1999 Dodge Ram Van 1500 with a 318 cu. in. (or 5.2L). Coolant in this thing has not been changed since it was probably brand new (I bought it used). It now has 156,000 miles on it. It was used in Chicago and is now in Arizona where the temps can get extreme and the mountainous roads can take its toll on the cooling system. Looking into the Radiator it sure looks a little dirty/muddy if you will. I believe I can do the same procedure you show in your video but is there anything else you might recommend using to clean and fill (i.e., specific coolant for this climate or ?). I know I will have to use distilled water since tap water around here is (to say the least) very hard and leaves a calcium residue over everything. Your input (and anyone Else's) would be a little helpful.

What do you do about the remaining water thats left sitting in the engine block after flushing???

I appreciate your videos, so honestly THANK YOU! Dodge takes the ORANGE STUFF

@6speeddakota

Жыл бұрын

The later ones take the red stuff, my 2006 took the red HOAT coolant. This is an OG 3.9 with iron block and iron heads, regular green coolant is what they had from the factory

Hi buddy , quick update been flush or trying to , very brown inside . I drained the radiator barely a gallon comes out . have done this 3-4 times so far and the fourth time tiday i discinnected liwer hose and a little bit more came out actually quit a bit . then i have been refilling with distilled and prestone bottle of flush . i am not getting close to draining the whole system which j believe is around four gallons . any tips or am i missing something ? i know in yiur vid you disconnect the thermostat housing and speay up there , is this the only option because i was hoping and planning on doungvthat in the end once the system was a lot cleaning . j do not want to put a nee thermostat if its still brown water in there and nit flushed welll . also te way im going i dont see how i will be able to fill with coolant since after i drain radiator and even when i dsconnected liwer hose it only takes maybe a gallon to fill radiator back up

Is it necessary to take all the tubing off? Can I just open the valve and let it drain and flush water through where you add coolant?

Yeah my '96 3.9L I just discovered needs the alternator/compressor and mounting brackets removed to remove the forward drivers side bolt on the thermostat housing. WTF. All that for ONE bolt. I'm thinking of metal grinding down the socket because it only needs a couple millimeters more clearance to fit around the bolt.

@ElPadrino610

2 жыл бұрын

I just did that and didn't remove anything!

I know this is an old video but a response would be amazing... I seem to have developed a pinhole on the bottom of what I believe to be the thermostat housing on the bottom left (when you're looking straight at it) of the engine. Is that the thermostat housing? if not, what is it? Mine is a Dodge Durango 2001 4.7 v8. I can't seem to find anyone who can give me a straight answer. :(

Hey my friend I have a quick question what kind of anti-freeze do I use in my 2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7 engine the SLT I went to Auto Parts and he told me that I have to use dexcool is that true??? In my truck is a regular green I'm kind of confused

@6speeddakota

7 жыл бұрын

DO NOT USE DEX COOL! That's a huge mistake, Dex-Cool is a GM abomination that never quite worked properly and caused all kinds of problems. You need Mopar HOAT coolant or equivalent for the 4.7. Because it has aluminum heads and iron block, the dissimilar metals will wreak havoc on the cooling system if you use the wrong coolant.

@jorgecastrejon3715

7 жыл бұрын

6speeddakota I really appreciate your help thank you

@jorgecastrejon3715

7 жыл бұрын

6speeddakota I have another question I is that color green becouse in my Dakota it's color a green ????

@6speeddakota

7 жыл бұрын

It's actually red or pink in colour. The problem is that the green and the red/pink, don't mix. If mixed, they make a brown muddy color, which react adversely with each other, creating a thick sticky sludge. So someone at some point has drained it and put standard green in. I've read on a lot of forums that lots of people have drained and flushed their system, and just put the green in with no issues, the only thing you need to do is to make sure that all the red stuff is thoroughly flushed out before adding green coolant. I prefer to use prestone long life antifreeze, which is green in colour, in just about everything unless it specifies something different. So in your case, it's already been done, the best thing to do is to stick with the green now. If it's muddy looking, you need to flush it out immediately before it causes more damage. Also, be sure to use soft water, if you have hard tap water, buy some distilled water from the local grocery store, it's about $3/gallon.

@jorgecastrejon3715

7 жыл бұрын

6speeddakota well you know what actually my anti-freeze it's green and a looks very clean like you said someone already flush it and add a green antifreeze I just buy the truck like 10 days ago and I wanted to add anti-freeze on becouse it was overheating and it's all because it's missing anti-freeze I'm gonna stick with the Prestone like you said and I really appreciate your help man thank you

my 4.7 runs a tad past the center on the gauge, never goes past that..antifreeze is totally fresh ..should it run cooler?? I thinking its right where it should be?

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

+alan depalma I honestly think it should run cooler. Mine never gets even close to halfway unless I'm pulling a heavy load up a hard hill in very intense summer heat. Mine has always stayed exactly between 1/4 and 1/2 during regular driving. If you notice it runs cooler when you're running down the highway and starts to warm up when sitting in traffic, your fan clutch is probably on its way out, that's a very easy fix. Also, when is the last time the thermostat was replaced? If it's been a while, it's probably a good time to change it, it's pretty cheap insurance. Another thing that can cause the temperature to rise is if your condenser is plugged up with bugs, you can try some ac coil cleaner, but don't spill it on the paint as it'll destroy it. If all else fails, I have heard that the 4.7 can have some head gasket issues, even though I haven't had any myself. That might be your case. I hope this helps. Cheers from beautiful Cabo San Lucas, Mexico (I'm on my honeymoon right now) -6speeddakota

I believe my truck heater system its not working as it shoud it blows warm air but definitely not hot, does tbis mean my thermostat nedd to be replace ?

@6speeddakota

7 жыл бұрын

Weak heat could be an indication of many different problems. First thing's first is to make sure your coolant level is full, a low coolant level will definitely cause poor heat. If that's not your issue, then look at the temp gauge after you've driven for a while, it should be just under halfway. If it's really low, like almost not registering, then most likely your thermostat has failed open and that's what you need to replace. If all else checks out, try grabbing the heater hoses when the engine is warm. If you have one hot, and the other cold, then you've probably got a blockage in the heater core and you'll have to backflush it or pressure blast it to unplug it.

beside using water hose to flush crappy coolant what would do is use an industrial grade rust and corrosion remover....much like metal rescue and "liquid intelligence 239" to completely rid the system of this crap....

@6speeddakota

10 жыл бұрын

I would avoid using a rust and corrosion remover in the cooling system since there are dissimilar metals such as aluminum, copper, iron, steel, etc. in the cooling system and each of them react differently do chemicals. Adding that to your cooling system may cause head gasket or manifold gasket issues in my honest opinion

@meyawabdulaziz3863

10 жыл бұрын

aah you see those are aluminum , copper , plastic friendly but if the system is heavily corroded like 10 years of neglect then what you have is super loss of metal surface....and using the cleaner would open the holes that was created by the corrosion reaction not because the cleaner ate through the metal the same way acid does... coolant system is the most neglected part of the car...i mean we have a 1990 volvo with 350 000 miles on it , oil/filter change every 2500 miles coolant change every 1 year transmission fluid/filter every 30000 miles ultra sonic clean the entire fuel system with new filter every 50 000 miles maintenance followed exactly by the book with torque specs no carbon deposits in in burning chambers after replacing head gasket at 250 000 miles not that there was anything wrong with the head gasket, i just did it to prevent breakdown maintenance and it never leaked , sludge free , spotless coolant system , starts with a click my advise ? dont go cheap on coolant and fluids ....as soon that engine gets blocked and overheats...it will run like shit...and every major component is affected and in most cases it is irreversible no matter how much money you dump into it

idk if you will reply but i have a 02 dodge durango 5.9l and very similar set up as this and just recently i was driving and hit a rough spot of road and my temp sensor on the dash spiked to high but came down as i drove and stayed at a normal the temp usually 1/4 to 1/3 and 1/2 if its idling for a while, do you know what would cause that? before i hit that rough spot i was at a stop light and my temps were normal but as i got onto the highway and right when i hit the rough spot in the road my check gauges light came on and temp was high (and i wasn't driving for a while after the stop light i turned onto the on ramp and the rough spot is right at the end of the on ramp and another spot slightly ahead of it) i stopped and turned the truck off and noticed before i turned it off it had fallen a bit to about just below the max operating line before the high line but stayed there while the truck was off. it was not steaming or anything and i didnt notice any leaks just went back to normal the rest of the way home. im wondering if the rough hit caused the thermostat to close and halt the cooling process or if my heat sending unit malfunctioned for a second

@6speeddakota

5 жыл бұрын

First thing is first, the thermostat is held open with a bi-metal spring, there's no way it could have jarred closed. If you haven't replaced the thermostat in a while, it's cheap insurance to replace it. Also, make sure that the coolant level is correct and that it isn't low, an air pocket in the system will behave just like that, where the coolant temperature goes way up, then pops back down quickly. The possibility of a sending unit issue also may be a potential problem as the resistance of the temperature sensor goes down as the temp increases, meaning that if the wire is frayed and is grounded out, it'll spike the temp gauge to full. The cooling system doesn't lose coolant on its own, so if you're low, you're losing it somewhere, whether it's leaking externally, or internally.

I thought you were never to put tap water in an engine? I always used distilled water?? Domestic water has to many contaminants and will gunk up the engine with mineral deposits.

@6speeddakota

4 жыл бұрын

dragonbolt1026 in most instances yes, you are correct. In my area, we have extremely soft water, no minerals at all. I’ve been using it for years without any issue since our water never leaves any sort of mineral deposits behind

Wow. Thanks for the fast reply. Doing mine tomorrow. Do you have to use HOAT antifreeze. Have misfire on #1 and engine light on steady sometimes flashes. Just started. Advise please.

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

+Joseph Werner For 5.2/5.9/3.9L engines, Just regular antifreeze. 4.7 and 3.7L, definitely HOAT. The aluminum heads are sensitive to the incorrect coolant. The flashing check engine light is a sign that there's a misfire and it's warning you that you're going to damage the catalytic converter. If you haven't done a good tuneup in a while, start with that and that'll be a good starting point.

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

+steeltoedgloves For this truck, I put in the universal green coolant. The older engines are fine with it, but since the newer power tech OHC engines (3.7 and 4.7) have an iron block with aluminum heads, I wouldn't put anything but the HOAT in it. So, if you have a 3.9/5.2/5.9, put the green stuff in it, save your money.

Question i watched your video , my coolant is no where near as bad as his was , but my over flow still gurgles out hot water , should i try replacing my thermastate as well i have a 3,9 liter magnum , quad cab 2003 Dakota 2 wheel drive , i dont drive it a whole lot , but when i go to town about 50 miles it spills out coolant through the over flow ,,

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

That would definitely be a good starting point, it's definitely overheating and that needs to be addressed

Q: I noticed you had to do a break in your video recording (16:39 mark) during the process of installing the (2) bolts back in for the thermostat housing. Just exactly how long and how difficult of a time did you have reinstalling these (2) bolts. Especially, the one nearest the AC/ALT bracket ? AND, HOW where you able to accomplish this one task ? It appears pretty painless and real easy in your video.

@6speeddakota

9 жыл бұрын

It wasn't too bad, I just dropped the bolt; I had to fetch it with a pair of long pliers. If you use some paper towel, or tape to wedge the nut into the socket, that'll prevent you from dropping the bolt. I used grease to "glue" it into the socket temporarily

I do have another question, I just bought the truck a 04 with a 4.7 and 112k on it..flowmaster exhaust and airaid kit..the idle is right at 500rpms..seems low runs smoothly.. is this to low?

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

+alan depalma I'd say it's a little low, but if it runs smoothly without stumbling or stalling, I wouldn't be too concerned. The slower an engine is able to idle without stalling, the better the overall health of the engine.

@matthewhallman3453

4 жыл бұрын

My 02.5 5.9 Magnum idles right at 600 cold weather hot weather, nice smooth idle, never had any issues with this truck, just changed my thermostat as mine got stuck open and wouldn't fully warm up and no heat. All is well now and she runs beautiful.

nice JOB! Im getting ready to do mine this video helped Ihave a 2000 dakota almost 300,000 miles on it . I was wondering how many gallons does it take ? Do i need ?

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

+Joseph Fiumara I think I bought one gallon of concentrated coolant, that makes 2 gallons mixed

@josephfiumara9065

8 жыл бұрын

ok thanks

Hi My dakota is a 2000 v6 , bought it a few months ago , only 83000 miles . Since I bought it the heater has not blown hot air well at all . So I made the mistake of going to ez lube for a flush / change and I was trying to flush the heater core at the same time . So I was running the truck with the heater on as they were sucking the coolant out !!! After doing it for a bit , while checking the temp gauge stay in the normal range , a light bulb went off that this was not a good idea running a engine while the coolant was being taken out so I shut it off . So we finished there and that was that , it did not make my heater work any better . SO It has not been overheating ever but the heater still does not blow really hot but it is warm sometimes . I burped the system yesterday with a spill free funnel and alot of air bubbles came out like you would imagine but I noticed after doing this for a long time 20-30 minutes and revving that my lower hose was not even hot , the upper hose was getting super hot . So the heater is working a bit better today but I still heard bubbles in my dash today and My hoses were collapsed this morning so I opened the cap and it sucked in some air and they filled out . I am thinking maybe my thermostat is stuck open or I am worried I may have a blown head gasket !!??? Not sure , but something is not right I guess even though my truck seems and always shows it running under 200 degrees .. Any thoughts ? I think I am going to test for a head gasket leak today to check that one off the list before I replace the thermostat etc etc .. Great video and if you could get back to me quickly with your thoughts would be much appreciated as you look to know much about this vehicle and engine ! thanks

@6speeddakota

6 жыл бұрын

If the hoses are collapsed overnight, start by replacing the radiator cap. There's 2 valves in the cap. The pressure relief, and the vacuum relief. The pressure relief bleeds the excess pressure into the overflow tank as the coolant heats up. As the coolant cools down, it contracts and the vacuum relief valve allows the coolant from the overflow to pull back into the cooling system. Once you get that figured out, try re-bleeding the cooling system and see if that makes a difference. When you're bleeding the cooling system, turn the temperature dial all the way to hot and turn the fan on low. The upper hose is supposed to be hot, and the lower hose is supposed to be cool. The hot coolant goes into the top of the radiator and comes out of the bottom cooled. That means that your radiator is working correctly. If your heat doesn't get any better, you're going to need to flush the heater core. First of all, make sure that it's not something like the blend door is stuck or the cable is broken so it's stuck on cold or something like that. I wouldn't be too concerned about a blown head gasket, the 3.9L isn't really known for having head gasket issues. Head gaskets don't cause the hoses to vacuum down like that, quite the opposite in fact. There's a few different ways of doing it. First thing you need to do is figure out which hose is which. There should be one hose warmer than the other. If you're not getting much heat out of it at all one of the hoses should be very hot and the other one cool. The hot hose is the inlet, and the cool hose is the outlet. So what you need to do is flush the heater core in reverse, so flush from the cool side to the hot side. If I'm still getting heat, just not red hot like it should be, I usually just try flush it using the garden hose and the sprayer nozzle. that usually does a good enough job to get any built up crud loose. If it's plugged up really badly so that you're getting no heat or barely anything, you need to get a little more tough with it. Take an air hose, get the male end of the coupler, and wrap the threads with electrical tape or something so it fits better in the heater hose. Stick the threaded end in the outlet hose and clamp it down with a hose clamp. Stick the inlet hose into a container so all the crap won't spray all over the engine. Take the air hose, and crimp it with vise grips, connect it to the fitting, charge the compressor all the way to the max, then pull the vise grip off and blast that heater core really hard. You should see all the dirt and crap shoot out into the container. If your heat isn't fixed, put a cup of bleach in the microwave, and heat it until it's just about boiling. Crimp one hose, and pour it all into the other, hold the hose up so it won't drain out, and let it sit for 30 minutes or so. Drain it out, and blast it with air again, make sure you flush it well with water afterward so it doesn't run bleach through your cooling system. If that doesn't work, it's time to step up to the doomsday method. Spray oven cleaner down into the hoses and let it sit for about an hour or so. I'd flush the heater core with water before blasting it with air, oven cleaner can seriously hurt you if it gets on your skin. That'll usually do it if it's plugged up really badly, but try everything else before trying the oven cleaner, it's pretty dangerous. I hope this helps, let me know how you make out

@joesmith-fi1sx

6 жыл бұрын

6speeddakota Thanks man! re - bled it last night with heater blowing and it has a new rad cap since the hoses were really collapsing before . I think the hoses collapsed the otger day because i bled the system , pulled the spill free funnel and closed it up hot , I think these motors suck the coolant down when cooling down since the rad cap is so high in the hoses / not sure but aboutvtk check again this morning since I did it again but I did let it cool more last night and then topped off before capping. also did a blue fluid combustion gas test last night and it stayed blue ! so shoukd be clear from a blown gasket . Starting to think now that it may just have a semi clogged heater core as its been a so california truvk its whoke life and probably rarely runnyhe heater before me , I like to run the heater every morning in my cars since I know uts good for it and second I am thinking ut may have a low temp aftermarket thermostat since I know previous owner replaced it and I have a feeling he used cheap parts for replacing since he did replace plugs with same copper oem plugs which i want to replace to at least platinums . So I bled it again last night and less bubbles came out but still some did ! maybe this heater core really has alot of air built up in it and is corroded since when burping it hets prettty nasty rusty flyid coming up and in my over flow tank its pristine new coolant which confuses me like the coolants are nit mixing well ?? because j have done two coolant changes but notvyet a proper flush. The heater is working better the mote I bleed the system .

@6speeddakota

6 жыл бұрын

The earlier engines are iron block and heads and they seem to be sensitive to having rusty coolant. So just make sure you keep up on your regular cooling system service to avoid muddy coolant

@joesmith-fi1sx

6 жыл бұрын

6speeddakota Hi ! was able to flush the heater core and rusty brown water did flush out for a bit , heater seemed to be working farely well at the time while it was parked , will check more with a real drive today , i have replaced the coolant twice since i bought it a few months ago or I had it done actually and a weird thing i have noticed while messing with this system and butping it etc . is that the coolant in the reserve tank is brand new and untouched looking while the coolant that burps up in the spill free funnel has a brown dirty look , it seems like the reserve tank does not get used or mixed in af all . Also i told you aboutvthe first coolant exchange right ? at a ez lube I had them suck iutvthe coolant with their machine which was a mistake as I thought it was going to be a flush , whike the engine was running and heater was on they sucked outvthe coolant and I turned the engine off just aboutvaf the end of sucking out all of the coolant , the while time eyeing the temp gauge and it did not go high at all . Do yiuvthink this coukd have damagaed anything ? it seems strange that when burping the system air bubbles seem to stop byt if i rev the engine it semms to keep producing some . Any thoughts on this ? I trying to do a combustion gas blue fluid test the other day and ut was turning green but then i realized it was because it was sucking up coolant , after that I was abke to pull some gas through the fluid I thought with no bad results and it stayed blue . Last thing I am thinking now is to relkace thermostat with a 195 mopar as I am not sure what kind is in it now and at that time really flush the cooling system and be done with it fir awhile . other than this the truck seems to run great except for one other problem with warm starts in a warm dag typicalky will produce a rough idle at first where it takes a but for tge engine to get back to normal , trying ti drive off atvthis time with produce lack of piwer like it is going to stall and if given alot of gas can make it pop of backfire , usualky turning off the ac helps get it back on track . thanks for yiur input

@6speeddakota

6 жыл бұрын

You probably didn't hurt anything if the engine didn't overheat. If it's having a rough time starting, check the fuel pressure first using a fuel pressure gauge. There should be a Schraeder valve on the fuel rail that you connect the gauge to. If you see the fuel pressure bleed off once you shut the engine off, you need to find where it's leaking down. The pressure should stay up when it's shut off. When you cycle the key on, it should prime the pressure back up again. Once you start it, the pressure should go down a bit then shoot back up. If you blip the throttle, it should go up then back down again, as the vacuum controls the fuel pressure regulator, so by fully opening the throttle, it should deadhead the pump. If you start it and the fuel pressure stays low, you've probably got a worn out fuel pump. Try replacing the fuel filter. If it's all full of junk, then it's likely that your pump is hurt as it's hard on the fuel pump to try push the fuel through a plugged up filter, and it heats it up and burns out the pump. Another thing to check, which you have to use a scanner that reads the data that the PCM is seeing, is to check your coolant and air temperatures. If one of them seems wildly off, like if the coolant temp reads -40 when it's clearly not -40 out, or it reads 250 or something ridiculous when the engine is only lukewarm, that's an indication of an issue with the sensor. A bad coolant temp sensor can cause all kinds of problems, same thing with the intake air temperature sensor. Use your intuition when looking at the numbers

Anyone help all I need is to change the thermostat

@6speeddakota

9 жыл бұрын

Japsten Villa Just skip the part where you flush the cooling system. Drain enough coolant out so you can remove the upper radiator hose and thermostat without any coolant spilling out.

Well after doing the flush and thermostat and then changing the fan clutch , today when arriving home saw steam comjnv out from engine !!!! though it was leaking from thermostat gasket , tighten the bokts up , they were snug but coukd be tightened a bit and it kept leaking after i filled about a gallon after it cooled down and it started leaking from below where the thermostat housing bolts to is what it looked like then started up and I think its leaking ALOT from the waterpump !!! nit 100% sure but either waterpump or from below the thermostat housing !!!! wow !!! cant frikkin believe it . I wonder if my fan clutch bearing being a bit loose caused this ? I dont drive much but whike doing the flush i was driving with the fan clutch bearing a bit loose for bout a week . no real heavey driving but the occasion floor it in the freeway to get the coolant fliwing . what do u think ? think ut from flushing the system or just bad luck ? one time whike topping iff the coolant and bleeding the air i did drop the rad cap and the fan hit it but nithing major happened and after that is when i heard a noise that led me to feel the feel and found out it was a bit loose in the bearing . i did continue to drive it for days until i completed the thermostat job and then it did get noticabky worse allbthe sudden with noise the last day when i parked it and did the fan clutch without driving until done . now a few days later looks like the water pump failed ! what donu think about that ? will be taking it to a shop to fix it ! lol !!!

@joesmith-fi1sx

6 жыл бұрын

NC JUNGLIST It turned out it was the little coolant hose thats hidden under the AC !! everything else was great . its about a four inch ling hose and looked like it had never been teplaced .

@joesmith-fi1sx

6 жыл бұрын

NC JUNGLIST and the noise was a loose fan clutch bearing getting worse and worse .

How many gallons of antifreeze does the Dakota take?

@6speeddakota

7 жыл бұрын

I think I used 1 gallon of concentrated antifreeze for a total of 2 gallons. Best thing to do is to buy 2 gallons and if you don't use the other, just return it. You don't want to be stuck not having enough

Lol I drain my coolant and rinse the driveway with a running hose. In the winter I soak my driveway with straight antifreeze to prevent ice.

@doperks7271

6 жыл бұрын

CIA Assassin dumbass

Cool video

it was the bypass hose so i got it donne along with the thermostat

for those interested 200 in.lbs on those thermostat housing bolts that's not a lot

Is it necessary to change the thermostat if you flush the coolant? My thermostat is working fine but my coolant looks the same as this guy.... Thanks bud

@6speeddakota

5 жыл бұрын

It's cheap insurance especially if the coolant looks as ugly as it is. I'd just go ahead and replace it

@ForsakenGod23

5 жыл бұрын

@@6speeddakota One more question, is this a 3.9 in the video?

@6speeddakota

5 жыл бұрын

@@ForsakenGod23 Correct, it was a 3.9 5 speed, unfortunately this one met a gruesome end and was totaled really badly

how in the heck are these things designed to be flushed drained and filled every 36,000 mikes or coupke years ? it doesnt seem to make sense unless the manuel is recommending the t flush kit thingy which in that case explains why this is so confusing to me

@6speeddakota

6 жыл бұрын

Every 2 years or so is what it's supposed to be. What you should do if it keeps coming out rusty, fill it up with water, drive it a day or two, then drain it and refill it. Repeat until it comes out clean. Just don't try this in the cold weather though or you'll end up with a cracked block

@joesmith-fi1sx

6 жыл бұрын

6speeddakota how cold ? im in so cal so it doesnt get feeling freezing ... I have been doing this for days and trying to do a air bleed basicalky everytine . usually i drain a gallon and then fill a gallon cause thats what comes out of the radiator . Tonight !!! i did that again and then was warming and revving it with the spill free funnel on , waiting for my girlfriend to go eat And all the sudden after awhike , it just kept filling more and more in the spill free !!! i have never realky had this happen . It seems the thermostat opened and coolant was flowing fast ! im wondering if maybe my thermostat was stuck closed until now or something because its never filked so fast like that ! i shut it off , it overflowed a bit . i took off the spill free with fluid in it and then went back to the truck and wanted to put more water in to top off and continue BUT by then it was low on fluid , off and hot and i caught myself thinking adding room temp water (colder than hot water ) was a bad idea ! was kinda stumped and wondering if the thermostat ooens when hot , fluid will flow and with this vehicle rad cap being higher , woukd a spikl free funnel be abke to run when the therm is ioen without it geysering !? should it normally suck that fluid down into the tio of radiator and keep circling through ? what do u think about this ? is there anyway maybe the water oump is not functioning properly suck down the water ? idk just wondering

@6speeddakota

6 жыл бұрын

I had this truck in the video spit coolant up like that, I think that it's from the coolant flowing through the pipe, because it has a transition in the pipe causes turbulence in the flow, causing the fluid to gush everywhere. Generally you want laminar coolant flow, because turbulence can cause cavitation and impingement corrosion on the inside engine parts. You don't want your engine block to freeze with just water in it, it will crack the block and you'll essentially end up with a 3.9L boat anchor. If the colour is still a little muddy but getting better, you may just want to leave it for a few months until the ambient temperature warms up a bit. I've watched chrisfix for a long time, and I really enjoy his videos, I found this one on how to super flush the cooling system, you might want to give this a try. kzread.info/dash/bejne/pWFhl8itZbzPeMo.html

how do you test the ECT sensor on 2002 dakota 3.9 with multimeter and what should the proper resistance be for normal operating temperature?

@6speeddakota

6 жыл бұрын

I'm not exactly sure, but if you test the resistance between the pins, it shouldn't be zero, and it shouldn't be infinite. Infinite means open circuit, and zero means it's internally shorted

@lien302

6 жыл бұрын

was able to get a hold of a manual. voltage on terminal should read 5V with ignition key on. resistance on sensor should read 20K ohms completely cold and around 700 ohms during operating temperature.

Will a HOAT based coolant work

@6speeddakota

5 жыл бұрын

I don't really see why not since it's meant to protect delicate aluminum surfaces against corrosion, but since it's much more expensive than regular old prestone, which in the case of these engines is all they need since it's cast iron block and heads, it's a bit of a waste of money in my opinion.

@hi_is_this_clorox_bleach

5 жыл бұрын

@@6speeddakota ive got a 2001 3.9l v6 automatic RWD. I can not find my drain plug

@hi_is_this_clorox_bleach

5 жыл бұрын

Why not just use the lower hose to drain the radiator? does it not drain the whole radiator @@6speeddakota

@6speeddakota

5 жыл бұрын

@@hi_is_this_clorox_bleach It should be on the driver's side lower corner of the radiator, sometimes they plug up with road dirt and it doesn't drain. You can use the lower hose to drain it, but it's much harder to control where it all goes

Tell clockwise or counter turning drain plug on radiator to open.

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

+Joseph Werner counter clockwise only a quarter turn, then pull the plug out a bit with a pair of pliers and it should start draining. Don't pull the plug right out or you'll have one hell of a waterfall

@Tigerman1143

8 жыл бұрын

+6speeddakota Mine still wont drain anything

@6speeddakota

8 жыл бұрын

These drain plugs are a pain in the ass, you have to pull it a bit, but if it still doesn't drain, just loosen the lower rad hose, pull it back a bit and let it trickle into a bucket

What size engine is this ???

@6speeddakota

9 жыл бұрын

3.9L V6

@Katmandu2

9 жыл бұрын

***** Ok, thanks for your reply. I just picked up a 98 Dakota w/3.9 yesterday. The engine is running COLD per the gauge and very LOW heat output from the heater. The thermostat must be stuck open. I'll be changing it out ASAP.

I believe I would just replace that radiator.

eneded up going for it today ! did what you did . back flushed from from top and through lower hose to pet cock . fkushed iut bunchbif rusty water ! Then put the new dodge motorad thermostat , seems to be doing more of a cooling cycle . heating quicker to a but higher temp then cooling down . no leaks . should have maybe done this first and then after the major flush with the hose ran distilked for awhike after a anitial deep cleaning . o well great learnjng experience . weird thing is after glushing and letting drain it still only took about 1.5 gallons of concentrate and about half gallon of distilked . letting it rest and will check overflow tank to see if needs tooping off thanks for the pointers !

@6speeddakota

6 жыл бұрын

The temperature coming up higher than normal then coming down is an indication of air trapped behind the thermostat, make sure that you've bled the system properly

@joesmith-fi1sx

6 жыл бұрын

6speeddakota will do

Give your coolant to cats lol!