Glad you mentioned backtracking the tap to break away the curls. That's the drawback of the so-called "power tapping" you see on so many machinist videos.

How to tell you are watching a South Main Auto video: 1. Great Camera Angles and Lighting 2. BRAKE CLEANER! 3. Dropped Fasterners 4. Quirky Sayings (1-2-Barbecue, Shebang, etc...) 5. Occasionally knocking the camera over (weee!) This video hit em all, except bumping the camera. Haha. Great stuff Eric. I am glad to see this stuff is easy to do, but I imagine it is scary when something breaks off or when threads go missing from the block itself. I guess if you keep a calm head and use your brain, almost anything can be fixed. Thanks for the video!

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Pete Gaytan III Haha way it put it Pete. You got it right on though. Keep Calm! Rule # 5 or 6

@mannys9130

6 жыл бұрын

You forgot the "WHOA!!!" That's the funniest part man!

@bobmoy3406

5 жыл бұрын

You forgot the constant phone and door ringing in the background.

@matthewmartin7639

4 жыл бұрын

"Whoa!!!!"

@vstabill36

3 жыл бұрын

"there's your problem lady". My personal favorite.

It almost seems like to error on the side of caution, that you would use the Loctite on the heli coil instead of the bolt but what do I know, I've never done this type of fix. Good job as always. We always learn from you.

Another excellent video. Best helicoil tutorial that I've seen.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Jeffrey Cardimen Thanks Jeff

@derakmurray1086

6 жыл бұрын

👍

Just did an oil drain bolt on my honda ATV, this is by far the best helicoil video I've seen. Watched a few b4 I did it just to refresh myself, did them on molds all the time ten years ago.... I used red locktite on the helicoil itself and let that setup, in a through hole I was worried about it threading out with the drain plug... Cheers and thanks for all the time and effort you put into these videos!

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Rick James Just did a drain plug myself today too! Used a Time Sert In that one though

What I can say to you today is many THANKS for all your time, for all your very valuable time. I always learn something good from you. thank you one more time from TIJUANA Mexico!!

I had to heli-coil one of the brake caliper thread holes one day on my sisters car(The previous owner just stuck a bolt in that kind of fitted...It undid very easily I may add),I bought the kit of ebay and very easy to use,what a life saver they are .I always thought they were for a repair but my father here in the UK used to work for a Vickers as a toolmaker engineer ,they made bombers -fighter attack aircraft etc and said that heli-coils were used from new on some applications in aluminium blocks etc as it was far stronger .

I agree with Jeffrey best video on heli-coil I really enjoy your channel you are the best of the best.

One of the best Helicoil videos I've seen. From start to finish answered every question I would have about the process. I have 2 valve cover bolts that sheared off that I still need to fix. Will be using this video as a primer when the time comes. Two thumbs up.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+DJDevon3 Cool , hey if I can do it you can do it right

@DJDevon3

8 жыл бұрын

South Main Auto Repair Actually that brings up 1 question I have about selecting the right drill bits. The one I tried broke in half and shot inside the head somewhere. Yes I have half a drillbit in my head somewhere. In hindsight I should have covered the head with some rags or something. That was 2 years ago so I think I'm ok :P

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

Well hid sight is always 20/20 right lol Years hmmm.... hope you it doesn't "show up" soon

That lady brought her Subaru to the right place for repair!

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+ICU2 :) Thanks

@neptaliguanco1941

7 жыл бұрын

Brake trailer check

@gibsonn14

3 жыл бұрын

@L Smith Those holes WERE in the block dummy, he even said they were otherwise the right way would be to replace the parts the holes were in. It must be terrible being a dummy

@donjohnson1416

3 жыл бұрын

@@gibsonn14 Yer being pretty kind just saying Dummy. Hes an idiot scammer mechanic if at all. So he thinks the customer should wait 2 more days for their car and pay an extra $1400 for Eric to install a whole new block for 2 power steering pump bolts? BAH HA HA HA!!! As bugs bunny would say "What a marooooon"

@dvader3000

2 жыл бұрын

@L Smith when done properly these repairs last for as long as the car last,way cheaper too. You are an idiot

Definitely the video I needed! Four bolts on a power steering pump on a airport tug are stripped. I have never done this before. Your videos are great! Thank you for sharing your knowledge!👊💪

Nice fix. Although I have never installed one of these myself I have seen them used with great success.

Not only are you a skilled and professional mechanic, you could also be a teacher; you always explain things clearly and concisely. Keep up the great work/videos.

Another awesome, straightforward instructional video, Eric. I'm here learning how to use Helicoil for the first time. I managed to pull the thread from a valve cover mount in the head of a 2000 Honda Accord. Of course, the hole I must repair is the most difficult to access--just above cylinder one, and clearance is an issue. So while the Helicoil procedure isn't especially complicated, repairing some holes can be due entirely to access issues. I guess I'm stuck now trying to learn whatever techniques exist to perform a thread repair on a hole where there's minimal tool access. Bleh...

Great Demonstration! Learned my lesson Steel+loctite into aluminum. Now I just make sure I torque to spec.

I have used the Time-Sert for the drain plug on my mc 13 years ago, and I've haven't had a single drop of oil coming out or any problems with the bolt since. So yes they are expensive but worth every penny.

Did this at school....many many years ago and had forgotten how to do it. Great little video, Eric..

Outstanding. I actually stripped the oil cooler lines mounting plate on my LS1. I measured the depth the same way which had about 1/2 or so inch more ok thread. Purchased longer same threaded studs and drove them in with locktite till they bottomed out. Secured oil cooler plate with nuts and lock washers and havent had a problem. Would only do this on my POV's. Its a scotty kilmer move but it worked. ahah

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+nonayou damnbusiness Haha come on now, Scotty wouldn't have done that lol

Great video.... between this one and one of your others (on the cooling system) you have saved me over $1,000 in repairs. Thanks so much for your time !!

@geraldmcclellan7564

3 жыл бұрын

He's the best I've ever seen, I've never seen better even before KZread over decades ago😉👍He's a power House, Master Mechanic 💪

@geraldmcclellan7564

3 жыл бұрын

I wish he give us one on how to increase horsepower would be nice😉👍

A true master tech. Your town is lucky to have you.

ZThank you for this video, I used the instructions to repair my 2011 C300 stripped Klerk pulley housing. Needless to say, I saved a lot of money. Thank you for sharing.

Thank You, learned a lot from you, Doctor O! Your shows are by far interesting and educational. Again, Thank You

Nice repair. I don't use loctite on the inserts either. I've never had a problem with them backing out. Knock on wood, I can't remember the last time I had to use a heli coil, nor do I want to.

@crabbyhayes1076

6 жыл бұрын

The insert tool actually reduces the diameter of the springy Helicoil, so when it is removed the coil expands into the hole threads and that holds it in place - no Loctite needed.

Awesome video by a professional mechanic. Best repair videos on KZread!!!!

Nice repair Eric and good demonstration of how to install a helicoil. Have a good one!

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+stuzman52 Thanks Terry!

Another great video! Based on my experience high strenght threadlocker in aluminium threads is usually a thread killer.

@charleskay1663

4 жыл бұрын

yes i think it was the thread lock which killed the threads in the holes or they had used thread lock to hold /.glue the bolt in previously as the thread was bad as the bolts all had split/locking/spring washers on the lock tight was not needed

Thanks for that good info. Never used one before. Way you approached it made absolute sense.

Hey Eric!!!...I just want to say Hello!!! I am a new suscriptor!!!!...Congratulations for your job and Thank you for sharing your knowledge and teach us how to do things!!!!..... I enjoy too much the way you explain things, very clear, and straight forward!!!... but above all, thank you for all the help that your videos provides!!!!.....keep up, we follow!!!!

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Fidel Robles Glad you enjoy!

Excellent video, calm, secure, and thoughtful professional, good work.

I can tell you've stripped quite a few bolt holes in your day... A connoisseur of thread repair kits... INTENSE~!!!

Thank you, thank you, thank you, for taking the time to make this video. I just replace the PS pump on my '07 Forester and the same thing happened to me. Pretty sure it was my fault, since I felt it go past tight and then I couldn't get it tight at all. Threads came out with the bolt just like they did for you. I was sooo bummed about this, since it is the freaking engine block after all. I feel so much better after watching this video, I can fix this, I just need to buy a kit and take my time and be careful. Appreciate you man!

@JohnUllrey

5 жыл бұрын

So I finally got it fixed... on the third try. Bought a fix-a-thread kit from the local autozone and a 21/64 drill bit from Lowes. However, I couldn't fit a drill, even with a 90 degree adapter on it, between the block and the fan shroud. For the second try I bought a stub drill bit online and a air ratchet with a drill chuck adapter and I still couldn't get it to fit. 3rd times the charm, I hand filed the back side of the stub 21/64 drill bit into a rough hex shape and jammed it into a socket and then used a 1/4" drive ratchet to drill out the old threads. Then I used a small crescent wrench to turn the tap. Thread kit worked great and I am much relieved that it's fixed and all the bolts are in place. I did find some torque specs in the Forester shop manual for those lower bolts. In the general description document in the power steering section there is a diagram where those bolts are marked T7. There is table that follows with the torque specs. The max torque on those lower bolts are only 15.9 ft-lb, which is not much. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and experience.

@lothianmcadam1

5 жыл бұрын

@@JohnUllrey Thank you for taking the time to post this follow-up to your dilemma, John. I must repair thread on a hole that provides ZERO clearance for all the required tools. It's likely I'll have to mimic your solution and file down the drill, tap, and the insert tool--basically destroy a kit--to customize it for this repair. This is an expensive, time-consuming setback.

Was interesting watching this and the Stripped/Blown out plug video, which btw it was brilliant to see Mrs O, little one and yourself as a family, so sweet! Even though I'm new to your channel, and watching the videos in no real order, it's been like watching your family (and your dogs) grow up really quickly! lol!. So anyway, my son has a motorcycle where someone in the past (unbeknown to us at purchase) passed the machine to us knowing they had a crack at the side of the sump plug, with the sump plug having PTFE tape wrapped around it. Course, this was only noticed because of a new oil puddle, and looking inside the sump plug threads it's clear to see there's a Helicoil which hasn't been done correctly as it's not been seated level with the bottom of the sump. No thread lock was used given this is a fluid area (this is a plus for me), so with fluid also leaking out the crack at the side I've decided it's best to remove the old Helicoil, keeping the tapped threads in good condition, then clean and seal the small crack (which is the main thing), so I can then put in a new Helicoil with red thread lock, let that set, then getting a proper copper crush washer (not the steel one that was on there), and tightening it up, and whilst I'm confident of doing the basic job, I found the combined advice in these two videos very informative and helpful., thank you for sharing your knowledge so us home mechanics can have a bit of a heads up with tips and tricks to avoid potential pitfalls.

@highstreetkillers4377

3 жыл бұрын

Don't know what you're talking about but a helicoil is NC threads. Threads even with locktite are not waterproof. You need a gasket or NPT threads, aka Pipe thread

It's not that you are behind in your work, its more like the best mechanic in the neighborhood is just capturing all the customers. If you are good at you do, work finds it way to you.

Nice job I prefer to leave the tap in the hole blow chips out the flutes especially before removing tap have had chips jam in tap even though I had backed it up lube tap after blowing out and finish tapping you do a great job probably don’t need my input .We can still learn something I’m 72 in November still wrenching but would like to sell my shop

Another excellent video Eric. Another things folks may not factor, the $$ you have tied up in shop supplies. But, you can’t function without them.

I just had to do that with the two bolts that hold the EGR valve onto the aluminum manifold of my 1988 S10. Same bolt size as well. Those bolts had never been disturbed since the EGR was installed in December 1987. Likely over-torqued at the factory. I also replaced the bolts with longer ones (not blind holes), since less than 1/4" was actually threaded into the manifold.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+hoppes9 Oh nice, yeah so many ways to go about it for sure.

I can't figure out how you don't have hundreds of thousands of subscribers. It's just a matter of time at this point.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Joe Milton because I don't make main stream videos for mindless people... most people don't want to watch this stuff. They wanna watch guys like Chrisfix who shows you how to take bugs off your car and clean headlights with tooth paste haha. That fits a mainstream audience a lot more than what I do. I just can't bring myself to that level just to make a few extra bucks on YT haha

@joemilton7552

8 жыл бұрын

Well keep doin what you're doin brother, this is some of the best stuff out there in my opinion. I love the repairs, the troubleshooting, and just how genuine of a person you seem to be.

Just found you and subscribed. Think I just found a gem. You’re the real deal. Great Vid 👍.

Are you sure you don't use brake parts cleaner just for the smell...?

Best coil video if seen. Excellent job Eric. I loved the shot of tightening the bolts. The way you went through that I think even ETCG could get it right. Lol. Just kidding..... But very good tutorial. I use them all the time. I tried the cheap online coils and they just don't hold up. Spend the money and use the right tools for the repair. Glad to see you using the Milwaukee tools. We use the crap out of ours.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Emt Scythe Well I put it out there so we can all learn .. hopefully :)

Great video, Eric! It's nice to hear your KZread videos are bringing in work from *hours* away! About 20 years ago- I owned a '76 Century. It was a "Bicentennial Buick" in that it had a white body, red vinyl top, blue engine. It was made back with the OPEC embargo in mind- and had a 231ci V6 with a 2bbl Rochester. The fuel pump died. While replacing it- both mounting bolts came out with powdered aluminum as thread remnants. I pulled the timing cover (fuel pump is mounted to it) only to discover the wonderfully economical *nylon* cam sprocket was also badly worn, waiting to kill the engine on failure. I did the Heli-Coil repair for the fuel pump- and 1 of the cover bolts as well, and replaced the entire timing set "while in there".

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+HUBBABUBBA DOOPYDOOP Man that is some flashbacks there. I can't recall the last time I heard some one say 231 haha or 2 barrel for that matter

@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP

8 жыл бұрын

South Main Auto Repair Told ya- been doing this stuff a long time (37 years). Those inserts are _usually_ made of tungsten, and are tapered pipe threaded. I usually just (if possible) run the tool down all the way- until it's notch snaps off the tang (old original directions). That *RED* Loctite is very much overkill- and is probably what stripped out that cast aluminum in the first place. With a proper unsprung split washer- I can't see a need for thread locker in that application. I highly doubt that Boxer would do that either; you probably weren't the first wrench in there.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

Well I do a couple of these Subaru's a month and that bolt is always loctited , not sure why but it is...

@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP

8 жыл бұрын

South Main Auto Repair How often have you had to do that thread repair because of the Loctite in the cast aluminum? Sometimes- it will wick into porous metals and tear the threads out. It does look like that "Factory" _orange_ stuff- not the commercial red or blue normally used. Very strange.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

I run across it here and ther but not really often.

excellent demonstration video!! Fortunately the site of the repair was right up top in front so you had that working for you.

much better than the O2 sensor video from the other day ! 😁

Excellent step by step, Eric. Thanks.

All kidding aside, you do really good videos. I learn a lot. Thanks

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+mar md YW Thnaks

Nice fix- when your cupboard door swung open I was expecting to see Scotty jump out- phew!

@anti0918

8 жыл бұрын

+Typey1 "AND REMEMBER, IF YOU'VE GOT ANY CAR QUEST..." **SLAM**

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Typey1 Haha maybe next time lol

Thank you very much Eric! Have to do this to the head bolt. Take care of yourself.

Your videos are awesome your very very knowledgeable humorous and worth watching keep videos going thank you

I also agree with Jeffrey. Great video thanks for sharing. I hate using small taps. I broken a few quarter 20 taps.

@highstreetkillers4377

3 жыл бұрын

1/4 20 isn't small. Careful what you wish for, try using a M48 tap

Nice repair! I would hate to guess all the heli-coil kits I bought in my past being a maintenance general supervisor of a large automotive component division. We bought them like kids do candy. They are a great product.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Rick Anderson They have saved my bacon a time or two that's for sure

I've got the same model & year Outback (white too), bought new, and found same exact problem when changing PS pump. tks for the tutorial! disappointing Subaru hasn't stepped up , esp ref head gaskets

Awesome I've had to use those types also on alternators and cast iron trannys for air shift valves and on the primary and secondary bearing caps when a driver corkscrews the main shaft in a spicer 8

excellent video eric - keep up the great work

thank u my friend for that very good logs

I Was at Autozone five months ago and brought a couple of ecoplugs $9.99 for my vehicles including the magnetic removal tool $9.99not only did ecoplug resolve my stripped oil pan problem on one vehicle on my other I installed it to make changing my oil better.I can literally drain my oil and reinstall the ecoplugs in a second without getting covered in oil.Word to the wise these ecoplugs have extremely strong magnets when using removal tool to remove ecoplug slide the tool off.

Thanks for sharing. Very helpful and you did very awesome too by showing how to do it. God bless!

According to the Subaru factory service manual, those bracket bolts get tightened to 15.9 ft-lbs of torque. Shoot me a message if you want any of the FSMs, the spec was in one of their "general description" sections with the power steering pump assembly.

Good vid. Amazed you dont have customers strolling in whilst filiming....that 90 degree drill is rather lively!

Nice job Eric - thanks for the video!

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+1954BJohn YW

Great Video. Thank you SMA

precision surgery doctor! thanks for another great video.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Jason Michaels Thanks

Good video. I’ve also thought about putting thread-locker on helli-coils but have never actually done it. My worry is that the thread locker would bond between the coil and the threaded hole, as well as between the coil and the bolt. So if you ever had to remove the bolt the coil might come out with it. Not sure if that would ever happen, but ya never know I guess.

@emtscythe3782

8 жыл бұрын

I actually had a Ford Explorer 5.0 come in that had 2 Heli-Coils in the heads. When I had to remove the passengers side head the hell-coils came out with the head bolts. The previous repairer had put a "big glob" of red locktite on them. Don't know if it was the amount he used or just that he used it. I stopped putting Locktite on my coils after that.

The dreaded broken bolts & stripped/crossed thread. Bane of every backyard mechanic. Your videos are the best Eric! I like to do my own work & I don't trust most mechanics to be as thorough or thoughtful as you or how one would want their own vehicle repaired. As a novice at most repairs, your videos teach the right way & are simple to follow. Much appreciated bud.

Yup Helicoil has saved my behind a few times

Great instruction lesson. I’m afraid of the fast air drill and would get a right angle battery something if I had a few to do.

Good job clear demonstration

Thank goodness they were easy to get to. Nice work.

You are very correct i feel the same way. In my I have always pulled the head on a Subaru in the car. I’ve seen ppl pull the whole engine and just like baffles me all that waste time when all u need to do is have the right sockets to reach the corner bolts and it comes right out. Lol

TRUST YOUR MUSCLES BABY. Love it, a real gear-head in action folks.

I use Heli's all the time on airplane engines. If you didn't know, airplane engines are split case type engines and on Lycoming's we actually use thread to hold oil in the case where it splits. But I use heli coils on the cases or accessories that bolt to the engine. They are a great invention in my opinion

Just ran across this and I will say excellent !

Great job, u always make it look so easy/simple, just wanted to know what die and tap set did u use?

There is a torque spec. It's 22Nm or 15.9Ft.Lbs.

Heli-coil leaves the repair stronger than original, particularly when used in aluminum. The threads gripping the base metal are now of larger diameter which can handle more pressure than the previous sized threads. In addition, there is a large amount of friction induced into the threads during the final tightening which is now imposed on the insert rather than the base metal. As far as the "to thread lock or not to thread lock" topic I know from experience that you should NOT thread lock them into place unless using a solid threaded insert such as a time-cert.

Hi Eric, great video! On the one you used loctite, does that coil stay in place if you remove the bolt in the future? Seems like the coil would stick to the bolt? Thanks!

Nice job, great tutorial, THANKS

Great video and thanks for sharing man!

Good Job good video. as i have to do an insert for a head bolt on a Harley shovelhead 1976, and it might already have one in it with a wrong thread count with a non-original bolt.

Easy peasy if you know what you're doing.. like others have said, I was surprised to see you put red loctite on the bolts and not the helicoils, but then again, the stuff probably spread itself all over anyway. Cheerz

I’ve done a lot of thread repairs to aluminium and find baerfix inserts to be a far superior product to helicoils especially if there’s a likelihood of dismantling later. Helicoils aren’t really good in softer materials as the pitch can start to pull a bit after a few cycles of tightening even to the correct torque. Check out BAERFIX INSERT for a different option. Also if you have a lathe you can drill and tap a larger fastener to the original size slot it for a screwdriver then tap the hole to the bigger fastener size, loctite the custom insert in which won’t pull the pitch when tightened. Pulled me out of a hole many times when I couldn’t wait on a kit. Smallest insert I ever fit is M2 into delrin.

Used maybe 5-6 on cars in my career, but at least a 100 on motorcycles. When I would use on a bike I would use loctite sleeve retainer and then let it set for a few hours then use antiseize on the bolt. Looks like red loctite on those front bolts.

no wonder the Lady was willing to drive far to you. She wanted it done right. good video

I say the Reason for the Hole/Threads failed was "DO" to the fact that the Lock-Tite was too far up on the bolts and did Not help protect the treads. (Metal on Aluminum with no protectant, especially around heat will DESTROY the Aluminum/Threads) Hence, had the Lock-Tite been applied correctly, I do not believe the threads would have failed. Great Video and thanks for sharing.

Good job Dr! I tell you,it's that loctite that messes up the threads when you try to take the bolts out. I might be wrong on this,but I personally do not see the usefulness of loctite on the bolts that hold the power steering pump.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Nick Nicu Subaru must have seen a need for it I guess.. not sure my self

I've got an over heating problem and I would like you to look at my truck. I'll drop it off. I'm leaving a Calif in about 15 minutes. Just want an estimate. haha thanks another great video.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+Poochie43124312 Lol I am still waiting....

Great tutorial! (I know I'm a little late to to the party.) What about putting an inline regulator between shop air and the drill to slow it down when you are starting?

And now I know how to fix a thread. Thank you. Andy Australia

Another great video.

Excellent video.

Very Well done, you are a pro.

Great video! Those heli-coils are so expensive. I got a crash course in fixing stripped holes when I was replacing a motor mount for the first time, and one of the holes going into the body/frame got stripped out. I went out and got a tap and die set, and used the next higher bolt size, which luckily fit through the hole on the motor mount. But I had to do a lot of running around to find a matching combination of tap and bolt in the right size and thread pitch. Of course, the tap and die set was more expensive (Irwin) but it'll be a better value in the long run I hope.

@satamanschmidt3428

8 жыл бұрын

+anti0918 You can do this trick once in awhile but Heli-coils aren't expensive at all compared to Time-Serts. THOSE are expensive. Most of the time you can't use the larger bolt as the part your fastening can't be drilled out (like a water pump) also the Heli-coil's are stainless steel and typically hold better than the aluminum they are going into. A lot of aluminum parts come with Heli-coils pre installed into the aluminum simply because they hold better than the base metal.

@anti0918

8 жыл бұрын

SATAMAN Schmidt Thanks for the information, that does make sense. Definitely if a larger bolt won't fit through the part, and you can't drill it out, then the helicoil is the way to go.

@satamanschmidt3428

8 жыл бұрын

+Jason Curry The patent on Heli-coils ran out about a century ago. There are many kits now available that are the same thing but cheaper.

@anti0918

8 жыл бұрын

***** That's good to know. But I didn't even anticipate needing them until it was too late to order online and wait for shipping. The kits in Autozone were like $30 for just a few coils.

Thanks for the great video. I search all over the KZread for this specific job. I over tighten my fill hole on my rear differential. The bolt just spins but won’t get tighter and it won’t come out either when I tried to unscrew it. Not sure how I can get the “stripped” bolt out.

I always preferred the Camloc by Alcoa Thread Repair Insert, M8 x 1.25, Drill Size 9.5mm as they have separate locking wedges & don't come out with the bolts. As have had with the standard helicoils.

Thanks so much bro. Ive been skeptical as fuck about info going around these days. Good to see some old fashioned values at work. Just found my 93 bronco yolk flange completely stripped when i went to replace my u joints. Buddy told me to research some heliocoils. Not sure if its the proper way to go about it but i cant find a yolk flange for my truck anywhere so. Gonna give these things a try soon. My old yolk flange was legit held on by locktight for over 20 years on a stripped flange lol.

Dude, now that you're an M18 guy you need these: Milwaukee 2615-20 right angle cordless drill and 0880-20 M18 vacuum cleaner. The right angle drill has great speed control, unlike the air tool, and the vacuum cleaner has excellent suction to pick up all of those chips. They cost $99 each at Toolup. Talk to me and I'll handle the batteries.

@SouthMainAuto

8 жыл бұрын

+SATAMAN Schmidt Maybe this nice guy I know in AZ might send me one!

@satamanschmidt3428

8 жыл бұрын

+South Main Auto Repair I like both of them too much and I've only got one of each (that's different than normal). Might be able to supply an XC battery for the vacuum however. The compact batteries you have for the impacts will work on the right angle drill just fine but the vacuum is a power hog. For that you need the XC battery.

Great video

Great job again A+

Good job sharing

Eric, I recently had the same problem with one of the water pump bolts on a WRX. Strange. Only one

I was torquing to spec and the threads came right out on the idler pully bolt hole. Repaired using a thread sert. Found out that I could have replaced the bracket last year for less, and that it was common enough. lol However, had the issue happen again this Saturday while torquing to spec, never got close, just kept spinning, so I with the kit I had before for time serts, replaced the threads, no issues.