This is the best tutorial on boost problem's IV seen anywhere on KZread, thanks for all your help, looking forward to seeing your next upload, whatever it is 😊👍

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Stuart appreciate the comment. Done my best to try and make it simple and easy to do which isn’t always easy. That’s why I didn’t go too much into codes and readers etc as there’s loads of videos solely just for that. Thanks for watching 👍🏻

This is golden for 1.8t owners, keep it up mate! Thank you

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Sebastian thanks fella

Finally someone who speaks concisely, correctly and knows what they're talking about, great video.

@TheParrottBros

9 ай бұрын

Thank you appreciate the comment 😎

This is the best tutorial I have ever seen which there was one on fiatscudo 2.0 JTD

ALL HAIL the Parrot Bro! Yes, I replaced the clutch and turbo on MK1 with 133K working thought boost issues. This was soo helpful Thank you so much Best boost Video on KZread You're helping my TT annoy the neighbors more XD Subscriber added!

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Haha thanks Scott, appreciate the kind words. Glad to hear it helped you. These tt’s love a silly fault. Will be doing a video on fault finding using cheap diagnostics tool too. Thanks for sub 👍🏻

true This is the best tutorial on boost problem's in engines 1.8t thank you very much

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it’s been out to good use and appreciated 😎

I'm having a nightmare with boost issues , spent loads on mechanics trying to fix . Thanks for the breakdown, of possible problems.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah they can be a nightmare. Usually ends up being something quite simple that has been overlooked. What issues are you having

Just got myself a 2006 1.8 tt..... 100.000 on the clock ... cheap as I really can't afford a new sports car.... really appreciate your videos... always wanted one as I love the design and shape...but I'm having some issues... and your vids are the best I've seen. Thanks!

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Glad the channel has been a help to you, they really are brilliant cars. They are just getting to that age where they need a little more Tlc than they used to haha. What colour did you get?

Mate what a brilliant tutorial I'm a home mechanic with 30 years of garage work with certificates and you have done better than any class room or practical lesson great work sir

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Gordon Jewell thank you, glad you found it useful and helpful. I actually met a new tt owner today and put some of this video to the test again and guess what it worked haha. His garage had given up with the boost issue. Boom turned out to be duff n75

Awesome video, really good explanation. Keep making videos so I can improve my TT :) greetings from Mexico

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the message appreciate it. Jealous of the great weather you get! Haha

What a great informative, clear video to follow. Want to go straight out and check my TT now ... Keep up the good work 👍

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you appreciate the kind words

Thank you so much you are amazing I've owned 4 audi tts and with each one I keep learning more. Just like this video has helped me learn more. Keep up the amazing job 👏 👍 👌

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the kind words and glad i could help :)

I bought my mk1 Octavia VRS a week ago as a daily and noticed that it was having issues boosting properly. Watched this, unplugged the N75 and hey presto. This is perhaps the quickest and most satisfying diagnostic test I've ever done 😂 Cheers!

@TheParrottBros

10 ай бұрын

Ha ha, glad this video is still getting put to good use and top work on the QuickFix love that

Dude I love you ❤ you just saved me so much money. I do body work not mechanic work but it's my N75 and MAF sensor 😭 easy fix!

great video this deserves more views

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you

Top video as always

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks John 👍🏻

Really good information. Great video

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks buddy

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks buddy

Great information thank you

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

thank you

Hi there! I've been following your videos since buying my own 1.8T 8n, absolutely brilliant! Today I have mounted boost gauge as I had a feeling car is a bit sluggish. The reading I'm getting is no more than 0.6 bar... Disconnecting MAF improved the drive but made the reading fluctuates from 0.6 to 0.8 .. So I guess it's time to go through the pipework. Also - the previous owner mounted Forge recirculation valve which I've heard are famous for leaks...

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Hey buddy, A boost gauge certainly is a great tool. If you have a 225 you should see 10-12psi if standard and nearer 20 if mapped. Forge DV’s are ok just make sure it’s tight and jubilees etc are on. You can test it same as any dv. Is it a 225 or 180? Any other mods?

@marcinre4588

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros it's 180 quattro (ARY) from late 2005. Recently installed bigger intake as previous owner decided to drill holes in genuine box :O I will also take dv out and test it to see if that is an issue

Put the Ramair filter kit on my 225 enjoyed the flutter for one drive but knew it was to high . Your video has pointed me in the right direction I think . It fluttered a little before so I think the diverter valve is suspect . THANK YOU 👍👍👍

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

I would certainly give the pipework a look over and check the dv, pipes and other things in that area. Old rubber pipes and plastic valves often fail. Reasonably Cheap to replace with genuine too

@Alexdhowevids1

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros your advice was spot on so the RamAir presented serious fluttering which has always been there on the stock filter but kind of cool. If you didn't know better it sounded nice until the RamAir made it silly . I avoided the temptation to buy a Forge 008 and went with a stock DV £30 . I did the finger test and sure enough it was worn out. Fitted the new DV and it's gorgeous now . Smooth power and I'm convinced nicer changes when giving it some . THANK YOU oh and it sounds well well engineered performance now . Might go for a stage 1 map.

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

@@Alexdhowevids1 glad it was something nice and simple. Often it’s the obvious issues but you have to know it’s a problem to address it. Ooo love a map 😎

Genius 👌🏽

Best video on the internet!

@TheParrottBros

8 ай бұрын

Haha thanks glad you found it useful

@VinboGaming

8 ай бұрын

@@TheParrottBros yeah haha. Ibought a 1.8t a week ago and now have a boost leak somewhere. I have already tested the diverter valve and n75 valve and they are good so I expect it is a leaking hose somewhere

@VinboGaming

8 ай бұрын

@@TheParrottBros My car is not boosting as it just too . i got the p1297 Pressure Drop Between Turbo and Throttle Valve fault code and i just got my car smoke tested for any leaks but it turns out that i have no leaks. Also i tested the n249 diverter valve and replaced the n75 valve but no difference. Do you have any idea what could be wrong with it?

would like to say 1st your videos are FAB and very helpful specially owning a mk1 S3 my self.. did have trouble with my N75 valve tried to get a N75F which is the original for 1.8t BAM... but deleted from sales years ago.. tried the N75C lack of power N75E lack of power? N75J thumbs UP back to being a pocket rocket... 280bhp with a map but enough to make a grandad like me very happy when rag time from the lights!! keep the vids flowing Bro.. Bless

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Appreciate you commenting. I’ve tried to make them easy searchable for the wider 1.8t community as most platforms share the similar issues and performance bits. Odd that the c&e lack power. We’re they new genuine ones? Usually the biggest issue I see it people using after market ones that fail very quickly. Glad to hear your still enjoying cars and putting others to shame at the lights 😂👌🏻

@stuartwinstanley4949

3 жыл бұрын

Where did you get the n75j iv never found one ?

@stuartwinstanley4949

3 жыл бұрын

Where did you find the n75j iv never found one ?

@fletchermusician3365

3 жыл бұрын

@@stuartwinstanley4949 Hi Bro its a company from Germany.. at work at the mo.. will defo send you the link.. N75J is the very best for our cars 👍🏾🚙

@fletchermusician3365

3 жыл бұрын

@@stuartwinstanley4949 Hi again bro sorry for late reply been setting up a face lift r53 cooper s 2nd toy. this part number 034906283J known as the n75J... try going on ebay Germany and put that part number in.. as well as uk ebay good luck rare but well worth it specially if yr mapped up.. 🙊👍🏾

Hi on my audi mk1 tt the revs were dropping so I watched your video and disconnected clip off the airflow mass and it worked. I just need some advise would I need to change the airmass senor or the wiring loom {clip} that I took off. Thanks again you saved me alot off money

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

PAPA KHANZ the maf would need changing, try and buy a genuine one. Using part number off your old one to get the right one. Usually aftermarket ones fail after a short while

@fastcars4213

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Thank you so much... Keep doing what your doing... Your doing an amazing job

Very timely video, chasing down a boost leak myself at the moment. Regarding code.readers, can't recommend OBDEleven enough, it's VAG specific so reads all the submodules on the ECU which many readers don't, it can also.do data logging so you can chart your boost etc. I've replaced a few suspect and leaky hoses but still losing boost, particularly when the engine gets hot, so wondering if my N75 is the issue... Will be Ohm testing tomorrow. 👍

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

1.8t life at its best ayy! Thanks for mentioning that so OBDEleven is the one to look at nice one, It’s definitely worth testing the n75 as rife for failing and would make Sense if only happening / happening more when hot. Thanks for watching

@mikecochrane1437

4 жыл бұрын

Having the same issue feels fastest when it’s first turned on. Ordered new pvc, n75, oil catch can kit and some silicone pipes

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Mike Cochrane sounds like your n75 is failing when warm, definitely worth testing it and replacing. Thanks for watching

I recently purchased an Aviator Grey MK1 TT Quattro 225 Coupe with a load of the APR catalog, drove about 800 miles trouble free, now it shudders violently under any throttle less than full throttle, only pulling 5psi. Code reader codes: P0455 (Evap System Large Leak), P1297 (Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve- Check DV) and P1136 (System Too Lean). Hoping this should help. Thanks for the content, also great help removing the headliner and interior panels after a shop botched the headliner replacement before I purchased the car. Wish I had these kind of resources when I had my AP1 S2000!

@TheParrottBros

Ай бұрын

Hey, sorry i missed your message before and hope youve got it sorted now, first off start with checking for boost leaks, then i would look at DV and see if its still functional, If you search google for "ROSSTECH P1136" and the other codes it gives you a list of checks to make, should help diagnose the issue without having to spend out too much money

Great video,keep up One question ,I have Ibiza bjx engine code ,it doesn’t boost as it should,decided to do vacuum leak test and when I put air in the system I can clearly hear my oil bubbling in the sump 😮 What’s that ????

@TheParrottBros

Жыл бұрын

Thats totally normal, its air getting down into your sump thats all

Ok after 10 months I finally have a TT that has clean constant boost. Broken wire (3-5v) to the N75. Thank you so much for guiding me to check it. 💪🏻👍

@TheParrottBros

Жыл бұрын

Awesome!! i had the exact same fault on mine when i first bought it, bet its like a different car to drive now 👌

@mickehoe

Жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros smooth power from 800rpm to the redline. I had done everything else….. my F-Pace has been off the road awaiting a new engine for the last two months and I’m loving the TT as my daily. Bought it as a weekend toy…. Now planning a trip to Poland in it with my eldest son. Thanks again to your content it’s running right now so we can go 👍

@mickehoe

Жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros hi can I ask a follow up question?? You mentioned running a new wire from the ECU to the N75, can you advise which pin from the ECU. I’m still having a very intermittent hesitation. I bet this wire is damaged elsewhere. Thanks a million

@TheParrottBros

Жыл бұрын

@@mickehoe In my bentley manual its coming up as cable 104 / gr/br but thats based on bentley us cars, i traced mine by hand unravelling it ( over 3 years ago) hope that helps

@mickehoe

Жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros ok thanks a million 👍

Good video but what about the MAP sensors,this also got to do with your boost

Hi there man, a boostleak can also make higher reading on the gauge from vacumleaks ? I guess my volvo has a leak, it goes beyond 2 bars. Should not be more than 1,2.bar. My Audi mk1 reads 16 - 18 psi at max boost (1,24 bar). I don`t understand why I can`t hear it letting out the air again from the wastegate. The airfilter is stock. Do you have any clue why ?

Hi great video Would any of this be related to code P1287 turbocharger recirculation valve Thanks

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Hey buddy, likely to be a n249 issue, electrical or vac leak. have a look at this link for more things to check forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/14525/

New subscriber.. Loved the video and great explanations and options to resolve boost.. I have additional problem besides no power. Easy start, idling bounces at 1000 rpm. When driving turbo has high pitch whine but no boost. Any idea? Thx.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the channel support. Sounds like you may have a boost leak! Check every pipe, fitting and joint in the air system. From the intake to the inlet and everything in between. Do you have a boost gauge? Have you plugged it into computer? Thanks

@kennethmaughan4887

3 жыл бұрын

No guage, and have tried to run a scan and showed no codes. Thx.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Kenneth Maughan a boost gauge would show what psi of boost you are achieving whilst on boost, But the symptoms your car is showing is the common symptoms of a boost leak, take your time and go through the pipework including all the Pcv pipe work under the inlet manifold. If you have access to it get a smoke or pressure test. That will show what’s leaking

Hey guys thankx for the video ! Did you rember on wich pin from the ecu is comming the line to the N75? I guess I have the same problem on mine APX, just want to test with a direct cable to the N75 ;-) Thankx a lot !

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

This should cover what you need www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/n75-voltage-help.549857/#post-3754825

Excellent video. My 2001 tts battery keeps draining after a few days, at first they thought the earth was bad so that was cleaned. 2 days later, flat battery. Now their saying there is a constant live current "even when the car is switched off" to the ac compressor? Anyone heard of anything like this? I feel like I'm being bent over as I'm not much mechanically minded.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks buddy, it’s quite a common issue on older cars. As things to faulty they can switch off but still say live behind the scenes. More common drains are, dash clocks, radio. Not heard ac compressor before but sure that’s run on a belt so should be static when powered off. If you can get a multifunction tester you should be able to test around to see what’s drawing a current.

This video just popped up for a second time after I've watched it so wanted to share the following since last time: One of my injectors was visibly soiled near the manifold. Take all 4 out, send out for a clean, they will also fit new rubber seals, put them back and performance has quite visibly improved. Many people have this problem because injectors aren't normally touched...

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

That’s a good point to add, I’ve always fancied getting my injectors spray tested to see if all 4 have similar spray volumes. Injector seals is a good one tho, I’ve seen these fail and for the sake of probably 10 pounds on seals a cheap fix.

@gplusgplus2286

4 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros yeah ended doing the fuel rubber hoses too, they looked like a 100 year old tortoise's bottom. Documented everything here www.ttforum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1964841

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

I’ll have a read later, need to do mine soon as when I replaced my injector seals the pipes look ancient like you say

Great video - you said when you 1st had the car you found out it was in limp, how did you fix that?

@TheParrottBros

Жыл бұрын

Yes it was the wiring to the N 75, the copper had split inside the insulation, the insulation was intact but the cable is broken

@ejepeje

Жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Where was the cable broken? Not to strip it all the way. Thanks

Hi ,good video . My Mk 4 golf 1.8 20v from cold is all Nice but longer I drive it it’s got this problem - it’s building boost to 1.4bar and drop it build it back up and drop it .starting nicly and holding good idle .i did replaced all PCV pipes but it was eBay special.Swapped N75 ,swapped diverted valve still the same .When boost leak tested to 20 psi and spray soapy water small bubbles from under rocker cover gasket around timing chain tensioner area (gasket was replaced before ) Disconnected MAF - still the same . On same occasion it’s only boosting 0.4 bar but generally it’s build boost and drop .i can’t wait to get to the bottom of it

@TheParrottBros

Жыл бұрын

This is a discussion I have very often, did you buy a genuine N75 valve? You could have a bad actuator or waste gate on the turbo, I would recommend taking it to a specialist for a look over before you spend too much money

Awesome vid dom. I just lost most of my power on my 2001 225 1.8T and it’s misfiring cylinder 4 and pending 3. I replaced both coil packs but no difference. Could the N75 or MAF cause this ‘golf cart mode’ (major loss of power). Hopefully it’s not a ring. And I will check all vacuum hoses and valves. Many thanks mate!

@TheParrottBros

10 ай бұрын

Have you checked the wiring loom and are there any codes locked other than misfiring?

@King_Henry

10 ай бұрын

I solved it last week Mate! I replaced all plugs and did packs on 3 and 4 with no change...SO I replaced coil packs 1 and 2, and she's purrin' like the beast that she wants to be..many thanks for the input on those connectors-they most definitely need to be replaced at some point, as the interlocks on those got damaged (no locky on a few of those)..but now she/he's good, and just got new steering rack/pinion, all straight 3" exhaust, and soon a Carven TR series cigar muffler (whatever you call those)..in the process of doing a boost gauge..much appreciation from King Henry in WA, USA@@TheParrottBros

@TheParrottBros

10 ай бұрын

@@King_Henry awesome! Glad to hear you got it sorted mate, now you can enjoy it for what it’s made for. Love a nice exhaust on these cars 😎

Greetings from New Mexico. What is that pipe called you held in your hand at 9:34. The pipe that was weak or collapsed. In the mean time, mine was collapsed (122K miles) from suction (vacuum) and I gave it a second wind by inserting a like diameter spring into the pipe. The pipe is very weak so I think there could be a tear from attempting to open the pipe and stiffen it up. What is the name of that pipe? Or the part number. Thanks, great instructional videos.

Do you know of any upgrades for the n75 as I've had two that have separated where the solenoid valve meets the t piece body??

Hi. Hoping you can help. I have a mk3 tts. With a fault showing drive system error. My problem is I cannot locate valve N75 or valve N249. I have tested all pipes and all are good. I would be really grateful if you could point me to the location of these valves. Loved your video by the way . Forgot to mention ran a check with obd 11. Device and it gave me error code p00AF00. Turbo fault.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

A mk3 TTS will have a completely different set up to the original MK1. That code shows / Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1: Stuck Possible Symptoms Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON Glow Plug light flashing Reduced engine performance Possible Causes Defective N75 N75 connector plugged into the wrong 2 wire component. Check wiring diagram to confirm Vacuum leak or low vacuum VNT sticking or seized G581 sensor Possible Solutions Verify N75 is working to design, use Output Testing Verify the N75 connector plugged into N75 per the factory level wiring diagram rather than any other component that may not set a fault code such as N79 (Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) heating element) Verify vacuum lines are good, check engine vacuum at idle Test VNT and G581, apply vacuum to VNT and watch MVB 120.4 Engine off, no vacuum 120.4 should read about 3.5V Engine Off, apply 17 Inches of mercury, 120.4 should drop to about .7V Engine at idle, 120.4 should read about .7V If 120.4 voltage doesn't alter, VNT may be seized or G581 failed Special Notes

Hi. Are the N75 valves fitted to the ARY engine?

I find it truly amazing how well you know everything looking under the bonnet! I love my tt. Just spent £920 on a new clutch now to find what's draining my battery? 4th day in the garage and I'm getting worried 😯. I've spent so much on my tt I love it plus its my 1st car so I'm attached to it. But when do you say enough is enough to stop spending. Bout the car for 2k spent almost 5 on it in 3 years 🤔

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Chris Bradshaw To be honest mate it’s just years of experience with owning older cars 😂 there is a few things that are quite common for draining the battery on the TT, not to say that this is The only things It could be doing it as they could be hundreds of things, The most common one is I see: The Speedo dash cluster, it looks off but when info will stay on behind the scenes The stereo is another common one Unfortunately because they are a high end brand such as Audi they are overly complicated and Parts can be very expensive. Hopefully they get to the bottom of the drain, any issues feel free to give me a message on Facebook or via our website 👍🏻 Thanks dom

@mikecochrane1437

3 жыл бұрын

Mate I’m 5 grand into a 19 year old s3 that cost 900 quid. I’m fully polybushing and repainting the suspension with some b8s, h and r arbs, replacing all the pipe work. Next year engine turbo 😬

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Mike Cochrane I’m there with you, I stopped counting a few thousand ago 😅

@MrCube17

2 жыл бұрын

My car seems to be in the garage for a minimum of 3 weeks so I wouldn't worry lmao

Perfect video to watch before a map or tune...i have white smoke coming from back of engine...oil smell. And im sure i have leaks..

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Karim Zamani thanks buddy, that could quite possibly be the rocker gasket leaking oil which is getting burnt on the turbo manifold. Easy fix if that is the case :)

@karimzamani2909

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros is that right? Thanks so much, cant wait to check out that gasket

@karimzamani2909

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros definitely the culprit...has oil around it!...hey do you recommend anything else replaced while i remove the rocker gasket?? Since some stuff is coming off

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Karim Zamani depending on what engine model you have, you will need rocker gasket, and chain tensioner gasket too. Also check your coilpacks, spark plugs and wiring for you coil packs as often fails. While your there always check your Pcv pipework including the triple pipe that connects to the rocker cover itself

@karimzamani2909

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros right on man I appreciate it so much I will do all of that, and its a 2001 225hp with the s-line badge on the steering wheel :)

Do you know whats the problem with my tt, sometimes it does boost normally and sometimes it doesnt, feels like it does boost properly when the motor is cold….?

@pioupiouapotodimotiko1895

16 күн бұрын

A bigger intercooler will help

Thanks mate really good advice. Having problems right now and bought a load of valves and sensors including the N75 and N249 and another air intake valve!! I think it’s the N75 valve though. Cheers

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it’s being put to good use, any help needed just drop me a message and I’ll always try to help

@seanlyons161

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Well in that case since you offered :) I have recently posted my problem on ukmkivs forum, and if you would like to contribute that would be awesome! www.uk-mkivs.net/threads/1-8t-golf-jerky-bunny-hop-like-acceleration-code-16621.687730/ my email is srpjlyons@live.co.uk I like to try and solve and understand myself, rather than take to a garage.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Had a quick read, genuine n75 is branded Eaton, you can get genuine parts from “Coverdale car parts” they supply genuine parts and try to beat TPS. You need to test sensors, plug in And check codes, read what the sensors are seeing, test voltages at plugs etc before just replacing with new bits as will cost you a fortune long run haha. Likely either map or n75 issue, check maf too but probably more boost related

@seanlyons161

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Thanks very much for the parts shop. I'm really an amatuer and I have no idea how to test these sensors, I bought an electric multimeter yesterday, but I dont know how to do the testing.

@seanlyons161

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros hi mate. Long story short but I’ve fixed the issue. Take a look at my forum post again. I have updated it with everything I found. Just wait till you see what the problem was 😢

My TT had issues when I first got it, it ran the turbo at full boost for the first 15/20 mins driving which was great because it was silly fast, I could spin the wheels up through the first 3 gears when accelerating from stopped! Trouble was then it would go into limp mode. Turns out after many hours of head scratching at my garage, it was a damaged loom going over the top of the gear box, wires were shorting out

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Great info Nick, I have heard people say in the past that the loom under the battery tray can get damaged. Glad to hear you got it fixed. Thanks for commenting

I’m gonna check all these on mine, I have a nasty leak the car is struggling to even move. Thank you for the detailed tutorial. One of the best! 👍🏽🙏🏽

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you and hope you get it sorted, check back in let us know how you get on

@AcesK9AGA

2 жыл бұрын

Check the brake booster lines 1st then follow that line down to the crankcase hose line. Guarantee that’s the culprit

morning! Is it normal to hear the dump valve discharge even al low revs when changing through the gears? Just bought a TT and hear that chatery noise. Diverter valve? Also under acceleration seem to have a slight wistle/ turbo noise… the car is really in colector condition and has only 88T Km from new. Its a quattro cabrio. Thanks!

dear mate i am french and your description is very clear , but i've got an audi TT mk1 225cv quattro with apx engine, my current problems are at about 3000tr/min the pressure seems to increase and deacrease and if the throtle is very light about 50% default appear epc engine fault wtith 1 code on vdc engine torque monitoring control limit exceededeach time sometime with only dsc alramr on dash board somestime more serious with Epc defaut and limp mode engine. we already change n75 m 249 and maf sensor with stil the same problem thank you for your analysys! whane the throtle is a 100% no fault !! best regards

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Have you fitted genuine n75 and maf? Have you checked the throttle position centre? Any codes logging? Thanks

@stephanenynjalord5258

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros dear mr n75 genuine new one maf genuine new one i dont know how to check throtle position i have to find, 1 code on vcds engine torque monitoring control limit exceeded code p1335 -35-10

When replacing the N75 valve, do you know if you have to disconnect the battery or anything like that? :)

@TheParrottBros

Жыл бұрын

As long as the car is not running you can just swap it over, if you have codes logged and you don't have a code reader you can disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to clear the codes

Hey there! what would you think if i as soon as the turbo is supposed to kick it there’s a huge air leak?

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

You have a split pipe, a pipe has come off or your intercooler is split, get a smoke or pressure test to show the issue. You will also get a large air or whiney / whistle noise probably

Hi, love the channel! I have a weird turbo issue with my s3 8l that I was hoping you may be able to help with. After 10 mins or so of decently hard driving my turbo just shuts off completely. From one shift to the next it goes from 100% to 0% (which leads me to believe it's definitely not a boost leak). With chill driving the turbo stays online for hours (drove 400km the other day never going above 3k rpm and had turbo the whole way), then did a few mins of boosting at the end and it shut off. My current theory is maybe the wastegate gets stuck open. Is this a possibility? I know that my afterflow pump is a bit broken which might have something to do with it. I've got a replacement which I'll be putting in soon so will see if that makes a difference. The previous owner also put a blow off valve on which I'll be removing and replacing with OEM but don't really see how that could be causing the issue. Unfortunately, I don't currently have a code reader but that's something I'm looking into (quite confusing to me). Cheers

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

Sounds like it’s over boosting and then going into limp mode. It could be a number of things. Including but not limited to… Boost leak Sensor failure like n75 ( very common ) Wastegate etc Ideally you need to check codes and check boost figures. It could well have logged a code saying this sensor has gone down, this sensor has registered an over boost etc.

@nicolasb5584

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Thank you again for the response. Thought I'd let you know that the problem is solved. Might be of interest to others that stumble across this with a similar problem. Turns out it was the Forge blow off valve. Switched it out for an OEM DV (put it in 'push' orientation). Was a very enjoyable test drive, can finally boost for however long I want. These were the faults I had: 2 faults: 170608 turbocharger recirc valve mechanical malfunction 17705 connection charger - throttle valve pressure drop (not quite sure if this problem is also solved, haven't had a chance to properly look into it). Cheers.

Hey great video very helpfull, but today i changed my bov and when i went for a drive the car felt slow, it wasnt braking while i was on full throttle but it felt like it couldnt rev fast.The car has 390k kilometers on it and the n75 valve has never been changed, i have an intercooler so the piping is fine and new with no leaks and i changed the maf about 5 years ago.. any suggestions why it started doing this when i changed the bov?

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Have you got a boost gauge fitted?

@Gianvtec55

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros i just installed one so the thing is that the bov i installed was an open type, and this kind of bov's dont work well with 1.8t i put the stock bov on and its fine.

Hi I currently have issue with my 1.8t amk cupra r. Started mainly after doing n249 delete its started dumping boost violently when changing gears around 2.8/3krpm. Found all my pcv system under inlet manifold to be badly split. So I fitted catch can setup and bunged off the 8mm nipple under inlet. It improved a fair bit but still not 100%. Could this be n75 issue or fault Recirc valve? Or just another air leak somewhere?

Great video, I have a question for you. Occasionally, my check engine light will come on and I’ll lose what seems to be boost. If I disconnect the battery, the check engine light goes off and boost is back to normal until it eventually happens again. Any idea what that might be. Thanks in advance

@TheParrottBros

Ай бұрын

have you ever checked to see what codes are locked for this, usually it will be logging a code for some form of limp mode and it should tell you what is causing it

Hello sir, I am strugling with n75 issue. Basicaly one of the wires is not showing any voltage another shows 13.5 volts. I am assuming ecu is not comunicating with the salenoid. Could you please advise where to start looking ? I assume wire is broken but where the pin in ecu repsible for controling n75?

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah you should have 3,5-5v on the other pin. My broken wire was literally 2cm from the plug. I would remove the plastic tubing around the cables and look for a damaged cable. Failing that take it to a garage and get them to end to end test it. It goes from the n75 to a pin on the ecu below the wiper motor.

Hey man. How did you come to find youre in limp mode? I believe I'm having the same issue with limp mode. How did you manage to get it fixed? Thank you

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

Fitted a boost gauge, saw that was barely making 7 psi when should be 10-12. Mine was down to a broken wire to the n75 but could be a number of the reasons I discussed in this video

Cool man your awesome

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Haha thanks bud

Hi I have just bought a 2001 bam 225 TT , diverter valve installed rather than n249 , the drive home was amazing boost pressure was awesome , next day it will not boost at all , accelerates the same drives fine but when foot goes down it won’t boost ,

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

What do you mean diverter valve installed rather than n249? Sounds like it’s been fiddled with, try and get it all back to the stock way round, check all connections as often Get boost leaks

@Hiiyouuutoo

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros pardon my novice questions and explanation I am complete novice with all this , so an aftermarket diverter valve has been installed , the n249 is non existent it’s not there and the n75 is not connected to anything , driving home when letting acceleration off there was a huge flutter and felt great but now the boost gauge will not move past 0

@Hiiyouuutoo

3 жыл бұрын

And also thank you so much for your swift response , I’d love to be able to send you a photo of the engine bay to see what you think ? Also your videos have been amazing please keep uploading , (Sligo Ireland ) big fan base here

YO! I have the first 180 1.8t Audi tt quattro 5 speed, I found its my maf that has gone bad. the part muber you linked i searched on amazon but now I dont know exactly what enginer i have, the part you linked works with (1.8L L4 Gas DOHC Distributorless Turbocharged Bosch Motronic SFI Electronic FI MFI T) but im not sure if that the engine type I have. Thanks so much for your help.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Hey, take your maf off and check the part number on the side of it. Failing that check your engine code on tab front left hand side of engine by cam belt cover. usually 3 letter code. You will need a 70mm maf for a 180. Not the one I linked.

@burq-

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros The code is ATC. On the MAF - 0280218032 (thir is a number code below the one first listed thats next to a vw logo - 06A 906 461 D) Can I get just the sensor or just have to buy the whole maf assembly?

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Could well be an after market maf, usually you have to change the whole assembly. Best to get a genuine one as often after market ones break. If your not sure on your part numbers call a motor spares shop and give them your reg. if your in England call Coverdale car parts. 180 and 225 mafs are totally different

Thanks very much for a nice video. I have a intermittent turbo issue with my 2001 Quatro (8N3). I get the codes P1200 (17608) and 1297 (17705). I have replaced the N75, N249 and the diverter valve, besides a rotten vacuum hose. A have great boost, max 35 psi, when I delete the codes, and the suddenly the boost is almost gone (19 psi) again and the two codes are back. Any suggestions, please?

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

On a stock turbo you should never see more than 21psi if mapped, 14psi if stock. Sounds like something isn’t right. The parts you replaced are they genuine audi parts or are the aftermarket? That can make a massive difference. Thanks

@rightnow1445

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Thanks. I think the 35 psi is the total pressure incl. Atm. pressure, so my boost pressure is 20-21 psi like you say. No it is not AUDI-parts but OEM parts from quality German manufactures. But I checked the diverter valve as you explained in the video. When I press it open from the bottom it goes back even when I hold on and close the to other openings. It that normal?

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

@@rightnow1445 if your pushing up From the bottom then put your finger over the nipple on top it shouldn’t go down until you let go then should slam back down. So that could be your issue. Wasn’t sure if you were quoting from boost gauge or vagcom etc. Sometimes non genuine n75 valves cause no end of issue. An EATON one is genuine.

Hi Bro, Thank you for this video. I have a overboost problem on my 1.8T. Car boosts to 1.1Bar and then holds at 0.5bar. Could this be an N75 problem. Car has no map. Down pipe and exhaust, done. Dump valve, to atmosphere, done. Front mount intercooler done. Please help

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

1.8t engines do not like dump valves, if fit a diverter valve back on you will notice better straight away. Ideally you want to get it mapped now you have intercooler and exhaust done. I would check the remaining hoses for air leak as any leaks can cause a lot of boost issues :)

@ashleynaidoo6907

4 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros How's does a leak cause an overboost error?

I have a 2003 TT Quattro, The turbo works fine when first started, then after a few stop lights (5 to 10 minutes) the boost is gone and car runs like a non-turbo charged 2.0 engine. If I turn off ignition and restart engine turbo works fine for same amount of time then craps out again. If you have any thoughts they would be much appreciated. Thanks, Mark

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

It could be a few things but sounds like possibly a sensor is failing when hot, usually n75 is a culprit, have you plugged it into diagnostics?

Nice video mate ! I do have the overboost turbo fault code... No leak in the turbo system and changed the 75 already. The issue appears mostly from 60mph on the highway when I go above 4000rpm. Nothing wrong on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear even at 6000rev... I'm kinda lost with this. I've heard somewhere that it could be the actuator of the boost pressure sensor.... If you have any recommendation to test these parts I'll go for it

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Hey, when you say no leak on the turbo system has it been pressure or smoke tested ? Did you change the n75 for a genuine oem Eaton one? It could be quite a few things, Has it always done it in your ownership or is it a new issue,

@clementjavano2706

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros thanks for your answer :) The smoke test has been performed. And the n75 was ordered from Audi. The issue came during my ownership. Thanks for your help 👍

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

What’s the code you are getting buddy?

@clementjavano2706

3 жыл бұрын

Sorry I didn't get the notification :/ The code is 00564 - turbo overboost pressure conditions. Sometimes, I also have 12425 - fuel pump electronics signal wire: electrical But it seems this is a different issue as both codes do not appear simultaneously Everytime :/

Dom what size is the vacuum pipes from the fuel pressure regulator, just noticed mines split and unsure what mm hose I need to order

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

Vac line is usually 3mm ish, 6mm would be for things like n249

@stuartwinstanley4949

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros thanks again Dom,don't know what we'd do without you ,👍🥰

Can n75 or n249 reduce your boost without throwing up a code? Car has lost a bit of power so fitted a boost gauge, its hitting 16psi peakthen holding 13psi.. its remapped and im told it should be peaking st about 20psi. No damaged pipes and local 'audi specialist ' cant find anything wrong! Also getting occasional exhaust pops when decelerating and changing 1st to 2nd when warmed up but not cold

Does the n75 throw up codes? As I’ve got an issue with boost between 1500-2000rpm where it just cuts boost (not fully) but still boosts after but doesn’t feel 180bhp as mines the AUQ engine feels more 140ish (not for cert)

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

It can do, but it’s not guaranteed that’s what makes it annoying. Have you got a multi meter with an ohms test feature. Would make it easy to tell? Also have you got a boost gauge?

hi there bryn, is there any way of removing the turbo from the top?

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

Hey buddy, Bryns page is @bws tt , looking at it I’d say no as it looks bigger than the space there is but I could be wrong

@ajp2279

4 жыл бұрын

are you anywhere Coventry mate?

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

I’m not but bryn is, give him a message on fb he usually reply’s quickly

hi great vids and watched d nearly all of them ...now my problem is when cold (just warming up) i get about 10 to 12 psi ...so i drive it for about 10 miles ..my boost drops to about 5 psi..no leaks ...n75 reads 35 cold and the same hot put a reader on it no codes found ..i have ordered a new n75 just to eliminate it

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

I was going to say would be worth trying to unplug the n75 and see if the issue goes away as it sounds very n75 related

You'll hear it blowing, not sucking if a hose is split, I've had that twice on my mondeo 2.2 diesel, which runs 18psi on full boost, as standard, you can hear it blowing with the windows closed🤪 But it has much fewer hoses than the TT making it easier to find😉

Can u do a tutorial on the coolant system

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Any thing in particular? or just what pipes go where

Hello Parrot bro's great video. I have now installed a turbo pressure gauge, but it only shows that I have about 0 to 0.7 bar vacuum. Any idea what is causing this? Thanks Patrick

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

On idle what do you have? When driving and you floor it what do you have

@patrickdelangen5208

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Good evening. Thanks for the quick response. I'm going to take a test ride tomorrow and let you know. Greetings Patrick

@patrickdelangen5208

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros At idle speed it is 0.5 bar / 7.2 psi vacuum With a constant speed also 0.5 bar / 7.2 psi gaspedal released for a short time 0.7 bar / 7.2 psi vacuum First 2 gears approximately 0. 3 bar / 4.3 psi pressure. The rest of the gears are about 0.7 bar / 10.1 psi pressure. I have measured the N75 valve and it gives no resistance at all, the plug does what it should do.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

@@patrickdelangen5208 Sounds like you have an n75 issue. Be sure to get a genuine Eaton one. Can be used if tested from a breaker etc

@patrickdelangen5208

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros I have inquired at audi, the part has become unbranded and a different part number. Eaton 058906283c is now VAG num: 06A906283E this costs 103 euros Thanks for your help Greetings Patrick

My car only makes 10 psi and runs very sluggish now. Not sure what to do! Use to run 21/22 psi before my turbo went and after replacement I’ve just not been able to boost properly

Hi great video, I’m having an issue where when I’m letting off the accelerator it’s very harsh and sudden even if I slowly release the pedal, feels as though it’s holding the revs ever so slightly and then they fall off, any advice would be very appreciated 👍

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

That is odd, you could have an issue with the throttle body, its hard to say for sure as im not feeling it my self, do you have any codes logged? if you rev it up in neutral does the revs take a while to settle? could be a boost leak

@ItsBurstify

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros thanks for quick reply bro! It’s boosting fine pulls nice, feels as though it’s surging sometimes, I think someone has already completely deleted the valves and hasn’t had them mapt out, is that a possibility I also saw someone saying that the DV should be bypassed by routing a hose to the inlet manifold but I don’t know if this has been done! I’m getting it into a garage next week but would prefer to sort myself as shouldn’t be too difficult to locate given some knowledge

Hi I have the same problem with the wire than you … could you help me to know how to fixed? Thank you so much

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

You need to work out how far back it’s broken then replace that piece of wire to the point it’s ok. You can re pin the plug if it’s that close to the plug

Hi mate, I'm getting around 20 PSI in 4th and 5th gear. Have checked and got 30ohms on the n75 when cold, (need to check when engine warmed up too). I was giving all the hoses a proper look around and noticed where the turbo actuator pipe from the N75 goes into the turbo that there is no metal clip anymore!!! Could see some fresh and shiny metal and could move the turbo actuator pipe up and down the metal connecting tube, assume that would cause some issues with this maybe? Likely small air leak down there. Any other tips on diagnosing overboost would be appreciated! I've already fitted a catch can to get rid of the pesky pcv system ;)

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

You could stick a cable tie or small jubilee clip on it just to make sure it’s not leaking. Over posting there could be a number of reasons for that. Is it ok in 1/2/3rd? 10-12 psi?

@LOZARATOR

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Yeah i'm gonna get a clip on it on the weekend once I've taken some things off to get to it. And second and third gear are fine yea, mainly seems to happen in higher gears and occasionally boost cuts during higher gear pulls too. I'm leaning towards replacing n75 but will give it a test once the engines warm at some point first

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

@@LOZARATOR It could well be that, just strange it happens in higher gears only, best thing to do it unplug it and go for a drive, will run at less power but should be same in all gears. if it is then likely n75

Idk if i have a problem with mine or my obd reader is not working properly, i bought a new n75 from audi for my engine ajq. I tested the voltage, and only one cable gives 13v the other 0v. Both "top" cables look ok, but i can't check the full cable because it goes inside a sleeve and down the engine.. i need help

Can it cause some Tipping issues

Think I've got a boost leak on mine its mega loud with thr window down. Absolutely gutless in 1st and 2nd holds to about 1.8 bar in 5th and 6th but doesn't seem to pull hard. Do they pull hard or are they just generally slow? It's a weird one there's no pull but the speed goes up pretty quick. My dailys a clk320 so maybe just used to thr torque

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

You need to get a boost gauge, easiest way to see if you have a problem. Should pull hard, even stock is nearly a bar of boost on a 225

What is the air hose that you said was collapsing because that is currently my problem

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

The one from the puck to the turbo intake pipe ?

Is there a kit of pipes available? That would make it easier to buy and replace than trying to identify each pipe and order them.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Gary L there is kind of but with the tt there is so many different variations that differ between engine codes. You can buy eBay kits of certain Pcv pipes, silicone vac line specific sizes and other generic straight pipe. A coolant hose kit for example is a few hundred quid so not particularly cheap

@garyl5128

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros That's for the quick and informative reply. Great videos by the way :)

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Gary L thanks buddy, if you ever need any more info drop me a message on insta, fb or via the website. Email address on contents page 👍🏻

@garyl5128

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Top Man! I certainly will. Many thanks :)

Could you give advice in 2024 for the best place to buy hoses? Ha if it’s leaking does it go to limp mode? 🇦🇺🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀😎☮️

@TheParrottBros

5 ай бұрын

A big enough boost leak could cause limo mode yes, plus it would run awfully. It depends what pipes you need. If you can look up the part number then search who will deliver to your country or if it can be replaced with silicone hose etc

Hi, do you have a part number for the pipe at 9:30, changed all the other rubber pipes but couldn't find that one anywhere 🤔

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

I just brought a short length of pipe from my local motor spares shop for £3. It’s just 19mm oil resistant pipe

@tonylott8167

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Ah ok, looks like I'll be doing the same then. Thank you for your reply

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

tony lott anytime

I just installed a boost gauge on my 1.8T 163bhp Roadster 2006. Getting -20 on idle, 0 Ignition off, and about 9PSI any gear when foot is on the Gas. No tune or exhaust, just silicone boost hoses/intake pipe, Forge diverter valve, Proram air intake, new plugs and coil packs. Does this sound about right?

@TheParrottBros

Жыл бұрын

Yes that sounds about right, I would expect to see about 10-12 so 9 is about right on boost if it holds that

@shyam8102

Жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Thank you! Yep it holds about 8-10 when foot is down :)

I had a problem on my 01 TT 225, when it will hit a wall at 3.5k - 4k rpm and throw me forward; i changed the fuel pump to a VDO and that fixed the problem. It goes all the way to redline now...but from 2k to 4.5k rpm it will hit 16psi of boost (it pulls nice) and after 4.7k rpm to redline it starts shooting down and only holds 5 - 8psi (feels sluggish). I'll be changing the MAF sensor soon and taking out the cats to see if thats the problem. Its at 134k miles right now.

I've been looking for this. My car is overboosting to 20 psi around 3000rpm and going to limp mode. Hopefully this solves the problem. Thanks

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Worth through the list of items shown in the video. Any problems drop me an email. Address in description 👍🏻

@josephabshire2231

3 жыл бұрын

I've looked for e-mail in description. Can you please send it.

I have a mk1 TT 1.8 T 180 FWD. My car running with no boost at all, and when i push, it seems to fail to rev up. Esp Light appear on the dashboard. Any idea it might be? I havent diagnosed with vcds

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

sounds link its in limp mode, lost of reasons for this, usually a sensor or massive boost leak, best thing to do is get it scanned to save the guessing

At 6.11 the testing of the N75 wiring..do you check each pin to ground (negative)?..

@TheParrottBros

Жыл бұрын

Yes, one is meant to be 12-13V the other is 3.5-5v

@KTec84

Жыл бұрын

OK will give it a go.. Thanks for replying

Just bought a smoke detector on a certain shopping site beginning with A for £104 plus a litre of smoke oil for £5. As I have 2 TT’s and 3 other cars it’s going to get a fair amount of use. It seems to me that as a TT owner everyone should get one as they are very affordable and should be in anyone’s tool selection just as surely as sockets, spanners and screwdrivers. One of your 4 S’s I believe.

@TheParrottBros

7 ай бұрын

That’s not a bad idea, and it’s not just suited to a tt, it’s suited to any turbo car as they are all terrible for boost leaks when they get old 😅

@eddherring4972

7 ай бұрын

@@TheParrottBros I also found a telescopic mirror really handy, in tight engine bays and when you’re working by touch underneath. You can get one for about £4-£6.

BAM standard what boost numbers should I see at idle and at boost

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

at idle you would expect to see negative 20ish psi vacuum, on full boost 0.8 bar / 10-12psi

@stevenharpervw

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you 😊

Hi, I'm experience hesitation while accelerating, between 2000rpm - 3000rpm, then it goes like nothing is bad. Also, the idle is a bit rough, nothing major, but the needle bounces a bit. Ive checked for vacuum leaks, replaced a few lines, the problem seemed solved, but it is present again. Maybe MAF or throttle body (which I already clean, mb not calibrated)?

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Have you tried unplugging your maf then driving. That should stop the issue. If it Does you may need a new Maf. I wouldn’t worry about the calibration too much

@AssinaturaPicazica

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros I did what you suggest, the car runs a lot better, no hesitation. I will try clean it using Liqui Moly product before buy a new one.

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

@@AssinaturaPicazica great stuff, sometimes it’s the simplest things. If you do replace it make sure you get a genuine Bosch one, after market ones often give inaccurate readings and or fail

How do you know your in limp mode from thr boost gauge? No boost ? Not holding? Should the gauge be minus 0.4 bar ish at idle?

@TheParrottBros

2 жыл бұрын

at idle should usually be -10-20 psi or -1bar of vacuum, then on boost if mapped 15-18psi holding on full throttle

@youngstadan4999

2 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros thanks m8. There's a problem I think . It's got a forge splitter waiting on a cap to turn it back to normal. But going off thr videos I think it might be on wrong. On utube there mounted sideways. Thr tube from th5 main pipe air filter tube goes to the side of there's where it goes into the bottom of mine. Mt garage is clueless . He reckons its fine. To me it feels very slow don't even want to drive it at thr min it's so dissapointing. I know it should be pulling a lot harder than it does. Hopefully get to th5 bottom of it. I can literally hear what sounds like all my boost going past my window it's well loud when I floor it. Psssshhhh. I thought it was supposed to make a nice when you let off not a pshhhhhhh the whole time your foots in it. In my mind it should pull harder and be quicker than my old t5 it feels nothing like it. Bloody annoying . Looked for one for 6 months always wanted one and so want to love the csr . Maybe I will when it works correct eh;)

Love these vids. I watch them and do nothing haha

I have vacuum issues as my boost gauge sits at the maximum negative reading and when underload and boosting the gauge only goes to 0 on the gauge , any ideas why , ive replaced n75 , mass airflow sensor , pcv , recirc valve , air intake temp sensor and vacuum 1 way check valves , any help appreciated

@TheParrottBros

28 күн бұрын

are you sure the gauge is ok? It should sit somewhere between -15&-25 on idle. Then maybe 12-21 positive on boost depending on maps. Does it have a decent boost, or does it feel flat? You could have a wiring issue, the n75 may be fine but the cabling is fucked

I'm having boost in second gear but not proper in the rest I got told it could be manifold gasket and turbi gaskets ?

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

It seems odd that you only have boosting one gear, is it Mapped? Can you hear it obviously air leak?

@MrKingKJ

4 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros il do a recording if that would help over gone to 4 different garage on south wales they all telling me different things quite annoying am I able to record and send you video of the sound some how dont know much about cars

@TheParrottBros

4 жыл бұрын

MrKingKJ Feel free to send it to either our Facebook or Instagram. Be happy to take a look

Hi man, what do you think about my mk4 gti : turbo kicks in at 3500 but thats the k03, and before 3500 it is empty as hell, it didn't do that before.. When the turbo kicks in, power is here so there isn't power issue but massive turbo lag for its size. Note : before, it was kicking even before at about 2500 rpm

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah was going to say that should be picking up real early rev range, have you got a boost gauge? sounds like a boost sensor issue. have you also checked for leaks

@SoxiArts

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros no I do not have. I'm gonna check if there is any leak soon. If not that's probably a boost sensor as you say

Hey Parrot Bro, ive been having issues with my 1.8t. I have a t3/t4 on it, intercooler, turbo back exhaust, n75 is not in it , aftermarket dumpvalve. Its idle hunting like crazy, also when i hit boost than clutch in it immediatly dies. I have to start it back up, if i dont hit boost it stays on but idle hunts. I do have a boost gauge and cleaned the maf... i do have the second o2 sensor wire cut but that'll just make it run rich right? Im stumped...

@TheParrottBros

Жыл бұрын

Sounds like a nightmare situation 😂. Is it a dump valve or diverter valve? Usually big boost leaks cause bad to no idle. Bad throttle body, mapped correctly?

@FrankBleau

Жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros TB IS all good, mapped perfect . I baught the car as is and am working to fix the issues the previous owner had.... yes nightmarish indeed loll i plugged up a few vaccum leaks and found a gash in the front pcv system hose the one under the intake right before the solenoids. Can i delete that hose and simply run the valve cover hose to my catch can ?

@FrankBleau

Жыл бұрын

The tial dump valve is plugged to vaccum system tho wich i doubt is a good idea. Its the top port on the valve the car sputters alot when i floor it than boost kicks in like a sledge hammer around 3k rpm.

The ohmic values on my valve are quite normal when cold but didn't test it when hot! Would my car still boost when cold if the valve was bad? Also what do you mean by "N75 - Un plug, drive if resolves issue then likely sensor at fault"? If I unplug the connector, drive the car and it fully boosts is the problem in the valve? My car isn't fully boosting and I get a n75 open circuit error when scanned! I've done the tests for the wiring and valve (apart from hot) and they all seem good :( Thanks man!

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

Carlos Palma hey Carlos, yes quite often the N 75 valve will fail when hot the sensor breaks down when it gets hot. Unplugging the sensor, usually of people are getting bus related issues if you unplug it and take it for a drive you will notice that it boosts smoothly compared to when it’s plugged in. This is another way of proving it’s likely to be the valve. Remember when buying a new one always go for genuine, they are made by Eaton.

@cp5472

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros Thanks for the reply man! Tested it when hot and it was around 30ohms.. Unplugged it (but not driven it), rev it a bit and felt no difference between being plugged or unplugged.. People on the forums swear by the connector wire as it says "open circuit" but I always get 14v & 3v from the pins even if I jiggle around the connector.. I'll try an buy a new valve and see what's up!

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

If you wiggle the wires and you’re not getting any variation then that should be okay, Getting a new n75 would certainly confirm that it is or isn’t that. You would need to drive it, revving it makes no difference

@cp5472

3 жыл бұрын

@@TheParrottBros bought one now so let's see! I'll do the test without being plugged! It usually boosts to around 18ish but not just goes to around 10ish and drops! Sometimes it sorts it self out and boosts fully so that's strange

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

@@cp5472 Quite likely to be a bad valve let me know how you get on

my audi tt 180 has a power problem runs bad and some times ok took it to get tested came up with multiple ground to earth problems on sensors can you help ty

@TheParrottBros

3 жыл бұрын

colin robinson sounds like a dodgy earth anyway, I would check your main earths. The one under the battery tray usually fails. That’s a good starting point