HOW To Create a Natural Metal Finish using foil. PART 1 Airfix Spitfire MKIX 1/24th scale
This is a detailed step by step process on how I use foil to create a realistic natural metal finish on model aircraft. This is part one on foil a simple shape. Part two to follow explaining how to tackle more complex shapes. Any questions please mail me at richardseekins@ymail.com
Part 2 complex shapes • HOW to create a a Natu...
Foil adhesive www.microscale.com/Merchant2/m...
Sculpting tools
www.amazon.co.uk/Polymer-Scul...
Amazon www.amazon.co.uk/MicroScale-I...
Cape cod polishing cloths www.amazon.co.uk/Cape-Metal-P...
Пікірлер: 113
Aerospace engineer here: I haven't seen your channel before, but mate that is some serious skill. I barely know what to say to what your doing. Its moments like these that show how fantastic social media can be when people are using it to show and educate others things they might not normally know about.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
2 күн бұрын
Thank's Tony. This is very encouraging 😀it’s why I started this Channel. To share ideas and learn from each other 👍
@tonywilson4713
2 күн бұрын
@@RichardsModellingAdventures No probs mate. Its channels like yours that have helped keep me sane the last few years. 🫡😃😃😀😀
A modeller who loves Motorcycles, that's got my sub. Excellent tips, by the way, thank you for posting.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
Күн бұрын
Yes I started back into this hobby building motorcycle kits. I learned a lot from the fine detail and perfect paint finish that kids of modelling demands. Thanks for the kind words 👍
That is so freaking cool man, it looks better than an actual plane!
@RichardsModellingAdventures
8 күн бұрын
Thanks 🙏 If you like this, wait till you see the whole Spitfire done like this 😀
I don't do models , haven't since I was a kid. Just got into building watches via Ali Express parts and watching this has got me wondering about doing a watch dial with this method. Things we do. Lol.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
7 күн бұрын
That will look cool
Oh man, well done! cant wait for part 2
@RichardsModellingAdventures
5 күн бұрын
Thanks. There is a part 2, link in the description 😀
@gedion4000
5 күн бұрын
@@RichardsModellingAdventures Roger that! Thank you
Great tutorial, Richard, thank you. I'm definitely interested in a part 2 with more complex surfaces.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
17 күн бұрын
Great stuff. I’ll get to work on it as soon as I can 👍
Great Tutorial. I found out, that if you burnish this too hard and to long the foil will eventualy come loose again, so dont overdoe it. And you are totaly right, for this one needs a lot of patience, but the outcome is well worth it.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
10 күн бұрын
Great tip! It does indeed detached if overdone
Great work! What a brilliant idea! Thanks! Oh and btw I do think the spitfire is one of the most beautiful planes ever created!
This is impressive, Its time consuming for sure; but the results speak for themself.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
2 күн бұрын
Thank you 👍
Great Tutorial Richard. Completely agree with your Statements about patience, It's a key component of success with this Technique. I'm looking forward to seeing how you deal with more complex surfaces. In regard to how you apply the glue to the foil, a word of caution if I may. I used the same procedure when I started out, as per the instructions on the bottle, but over time I found I was finding contaminants under the foil even though I had cleaned the surface thoroughly ! For the life of me I couldn't work out what the problem was, to the point of ,after a couple of very disappointing results, giving up on the technique ! I eventually realised that even though I thought I was cleaning the brush thoroughly between applications, small particles of dried glue still remained in the brush, which then contaminated the bottle when I next dipped the brush in the bottle. Just something to be aware of. 🍻
@RichardsModellingAdventures
14 күн бұрын
Great tip on the contamination Dean. I have found if I clean the brush in IPA thoroughly it's no longer a problem, however if the bottle is compromised it's better to dispose of it.
Sees IPA, thinks India Pale Ale... Glad that got cleared up quickly!
@RichardsModellingAdventures
16 күн бұрын
If India pale ale worked that would be a Bonus 🤪
This is massive! I am definitely not going to try that, but the technique is super impressive
@RichardsModellingAdventures
2 күн бұрын
Have fun 👍and watch part 2 😀
@sneakyfildy
2 күн бұрын
@@RichardsModellingAdventures I will for sure
Excellent, thanks very much.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
Күн бұрын
You're very welcome
Great content you put on KZread. I dont build myself but I love to watch ans learn. Keep it up😊 cheers from Norway
@RichardsModellingAdventures
5 күн бұрын
Awesome 😀
That cape cod polishing cloth you used for the final polish looks very like silvo wadding - the silver polish in the same range as brasso. Might be worth a look.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
14 сағат бұрын
Thanks I’ll have a look 👍
Awesome Awesome Awesome . i have ordered the foil glue already..
@RichardsModellingAdventures
5 күн бұрын
Awesome. Watch part 2 as well for more tips
Video really appreciated looking forward to seeing the next. I'm going to try it on a Revell P51 thanks 👍also now building a Airfix Spitfire 1/24 and using all your great tip along the way.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
17 күн бұрын
I really pleased my top tips are helping you out on the Spitfire build 😀the Revell Mustang is a good build, watch out for the front canopy fit as it’s a bit of a challenge to get right and the wing roots need a lot of care to get flush
Nice job! I've used that polishing cloth in the tin before, but on brass. I noticed it leaves a residue that can attract oxidation. If you wipe it down with a soapy water, the metal stays shiny longer. Car wax helps too!
@RichardsModellingAdventures
12 күн бұрын
Thanks for tip 🙏
@jarls5890
Күн бұрын
Yep. I don't do model - but some time ago, for fun, I took my brass Zippo lighter - which turns tarnished/black from oxydation pretty quickly.; gave it a good cleaning and shine (looked like new) - then as an experiment i applied a little car wax to it (believe it was some "Carnuba/Hard wax") - and this has kept the brass from re-oxidizing for some time! I believe this would work on foils such as seen in this video as well.
Looks interesting!
I really need to try this method!
@RichardsModellingAdventures
17 күн бұрын
Have fun 😀
The memories! I had forgotten about trying this when I started making models as a kid, using chewing gum wrappers and (I think) xanthan gum. Never got results like this! Another vote to see a part two)
@RichardsModellingAdventures
14 күн бұрын
On its way very soon. Made me laugh about the Chewing gum wrappers as I used to do the same :)
I been wanting to try this for 40 years. :)
@RichardsModellingAdventures
14 күн бұрын
Go for it 👍😀
Feckin awsome I’ve had mine since last spring yet to build it this is food for thought thanks have subbed for your great content 😊
@RichardsModellingAdventures
5 күн бұрын
Thanks of the Sub 🙏Lots of video content to come on this Spitfire build.
I think I will stick with nickel plating. It's fairly easy, but you have to spray the part with a conductive paint first. Then you can plate it and polish it. But it's a cool idea to use that aluminum tape.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
8 күн бұрын
Do what works for you. Thanks for the input. PS how do you nickel plate a part like a fuselage that has other parts connected to it like a cockpit etc? It sounds fascinating. have you got any examples?
@KJ6EAD
6 күн бұрын
My first thought was to just electroless plate the thing. That solves the compound curve and inside corner problems that are inherent to foiling. Once a conductive layer is in place, typically nickel, various metals can be electroplated over the base layer. You can still spend as much time as you like fiddling with abrasives to get the exact luster and grain you want as a final step.
Hey, for my models cars. I use spray glue: spray mouth 3M
I do rebuilds of Dinky cars and use the self adhesive aluminum foil tape for the chrome trim on the sides of cars. I also strip, wash and clean my collection of 1/24 and 1/18 model cars. I use 70% rubbing alcohol applied with tissue paper. My main tip is FLEECE!!!! Don't know if you have tried this but wow, what an amazing buffing material. Old fleece top is good but a fleece 'throw' blanket is really soft and great. I am going to use the foil tape and try a 'wrap' of one of my Dinky Cars or get a model DeLorean to try it on. I wonder how well that Solar Film would do as a 'wrap' too, especially as you can shrink fit with heat. Hmmmm? There's a couple of projects for me to try.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
6 күн бұрын
I will try fleece for sure. I don’t always want a super shiny result but when I do il give it a go. I doubt solar film will bind to a metal car though. Maybe try vinyl wraps they use on cars?
Interesting technique. A few things to consider; For the 'difficult' complex multi high crowned pieces try softening (annealing) the Al foil by heat treating in an oven. It's thin, so around 240C for 1/2 hour will do. The high polish looks great,but it's far from authentic finish on aircraft grade sheetmetal.... especially 'war production' stuff. Perhaps finer grade sanding pad (>4000) to start with will reduce the amount of compound polishing needed to get it closer to finished authentic. Aircraft were made using different thickness sheetmetal - thicker where structural strength was needed. The different thickness materials had different finishes. You see this in 1940's images of B29 bombers, where distinct colour variations presented, especially noticeable along areas of the fuselage. Thicker sheets appeared duller - Polish the different areas accordingly. The 'shiny' and 'dull' side of foil comes from the way it is rolled thin during production - Two sheets are rolled at the same time.. the 'dull' side is where the two sheets touched each other passing through roll forming. Likewise, because it has been rolled the foil has a grain that may affect the compliance around curved surfaces. Obviously, the grain runs straight down the 'long' length of the sheet and it affects how malleable it is in that direction. Try marking the grain direction on your small working sheets to keep that compliance around complex crowned areas consistent. Good luck with that.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
11 күн бұрын
Indeed. The super glossy look is for current aircraft. Check out G-IRTY or any polished P51. Wartime examples can be done in many ways to get the look you describe. Another video to come at some point on that one. Thanks for the input. PS check out part two :)
@jasone3166
11 күн бұрын
I was going to mention the 4000 grit paper but also, perhaps use the paper towels for the initial polishing but then move to the soft cloth for the final polishes. I feel like you may be scratching the surface when you clean off the polish with the paper towel. I wish I knew about this when I was younger and had the time to make models.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
10 күн бұрын
@@jasone3166 The Tamiya Sanding pads i use are 2000 to 3000 grit but well used on something else first. I have found foil quite forgiving and can be sanded and polished many times. Thanks for the input.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
10 күн бұрын
Out of interest I did stick a bit of foil in the over at 240C for 40 mins. It made no difference at all, which is a shame. Doing a google, regardless of how thin it is, aluminium anneals between 298 and 410C so a domestic oven isn't hot enough. The only way I have managed to soften it is with a blowtorch but it's very unpredictable as it can deform.
Really interesting Richard. I'll have to buy a cheap larger scale kit to try this on.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
17 күн бұрын
For sure as it does take practice. I am considering an in flight 1/48th scale jet to see how that looks.
Incredible. I am definitely going to give this a go even though it's bound to fail miserably 😂
@RichardsModellingAdventures
14 күн бұрын
Thanks. It's all about practice and patience. give it a go. Check out part two before you start
solarfilm and solar tex.. memories!
@RichardsModellingAdventures
7 күн бұрын
Deffo 👍I only wish foil behaved in the same way. Shrinking and stretching would be amazing😀
You can get self adhesive aluminium tape used for ducting, I'm going to give it a go
@RichardsModellingAdventures
7 күн бұрын
It's too soft and thick to cover a whole model with but its good to practice with
You can use metal leaf . It is designed for the purpose and is low cost. Even gold leaf costs less than you would expect.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
15 күн бұрын
I have used Gold leaf on art work. It looks good but I found it rather fragile and difficult to apply in a uniform even way. It also gets everywhere. It would great to know how you have used it in model making though 😀👍
Great tutorial, Richard. You are so right about being patient. Would using a soft polishing wheel / buffing wheel on a small Dremel be possible or would it create too much heat? Please do a Part 2.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
16 күн бұрын
So glad its helpful. I reckon it's worth a try, but as you say take it steady to avoid heat. Consider a high polish is quite easy when the model is new, when you add paint and decals and fragile parts it gets a bit more tricky. Part two on it's way very soon
@lindsaywood1101
14 күн бұрын
@@RichardsModellingAdventures Thanks Richard. Very much looking forward to your next installment.
Love ths effect...now what can I do this to on a wargames mini?!... I think I see some very shiny power armour in my future, once you have shown how to do complex shapes of course 😊
@RichardsModellingAdventures
13 күн бұрын
check out part 2 :)
I think you maybe easier to use gold leaf guiding, you can get other colours than gold. silver, copper even matalic blues reds, greens ect. I do it a lot on my mintures bases for lead characters, but have full gilded mintures to give them real metal look.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
Күн бұрын
I tried leaf metals but they were too fragile and impossible to dull down or mask. Foil gives you a much wider opportunity to vary the look and is way more durable. I really depends on the type of model. Leaf metals will be great for miniatures and for sure easier to apply.
@4_am
Күн бұрын
@@RichardsModellingAdventures ahh intresting. I've not tried dulling it but sounds like you've tried it, just thought it may have the same effect without the hassle.
What a great technique. I will apply that to the inside of a lamp shade I use when modeling. Many thanks for the info! What glue do you recomend?
@RichardsModellingAdventures
19 сағат бұрын
I recommend some LED lights from Amazon, however the adhesive used is in the video description 👍
@TonyGrant.
4 сағат бұрын
@@RichardsModellingAdventures I have a LED light mounted on a stand that I want to 3D print a shade for to reduce spill. I'll print it in black, but I thought this technique might work well for the inside surface. If it works well I might try in other lighting applications. That glue looks very specific. I'm sure it does a fantastic job for modeling. I wonder how it would go with slight to moderate heat?
I think the next advance in model planes would be to mould the airframe only and the aluminium skin is applied over. This would look much more realistic.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
14 күн бұрын
You can already do this but at a much larger scale
How do you stop the eventual oxidisation and surface dulling so common to alloy surfaces.?
@RichardsModellingAdventures
14 күн бұрын
It depends on the model. Some suit that process anyway, however with care you can polish it just like any metal. On the Spitfire I’m doing now I want it to age and dull over time 👍
There is a chrome polished called Autosol trt that.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
10 күн бұрын
Yes I use it on my motorcycles. It does work well. Most metal polish works great
I did something similar recently, with a large chicken.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
13 күн бұрын
How did you keep it still? 😂
Great video, any cheaper glue to use, thx Graham
@RichardsModellingAdventures
Күн бұрын
The only alternative I found was to use Polyurethane varnish ( gloss) on both the foil and the model. Let both dry to a tacky feel and apply the foil as usual. Basically the varnish behaves like contact adhesive. Experimentation is the way forward.
@theaussienurseflipper.8113
Күн бұрын
@@RichardsModellingAdventures thx mate
Wow!
@RichardsModellingAdventures
14 күн бұрын
Thanks 🙏
What do you do to blend one piece to another so theres no uglt seem lines.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
8 күн бұрын
I foil up to a natural panel line
Dude! sorry? you just gave me some ideas! like a flood! for heat treating, bluing, passivations, casehardnings, and electro plating? with some changes in priority or procedure. THANK YOU Sr!
@RichardsModellingAdventures
16 күн бұрын
Yes indeed you can manipulate and colour foil. Sticking it in the oven etc but it’s way beyond this video. Glad it’s got you all inspired to experiment 👍😀
I've an F-86 to make which I've put off because I really never liked metallic paints. With some practice, this moght be the solution.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
14 күн бұрын
An F86 is an ideal subject for this 👍😀
Would aluminum tape not have worked as well?
@RichardsModellingAdventures
13 күн бұрын
I have found it to be too thick and soft. It can work for some parts but not a whole airframe
I find Autosol is great on anything metal.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
16 күн бұрын
Yup just about any metal polish will work. I use Autosol on my motorcycle 👍
just casually here by the algorithm.. "if you don't have the patience to watch the full video you don't have the patience to do this" look at the time:52 minutes. you are right man. bye.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
5 күн бұрын
Thank you for your 30 second contribution to the Watch hours 👍
@grahamwhite1656
4 күн бұрын
You don't what you have missed - amazing.
@theaussienurseflipper.8113
Күн бұрын
Al did bring me here, but I enjoying it. I thinking use this technique in something different. But I need a cheaper glue
@oskimac
Күн бұрын
@@RichardsModellingAdventures i will come back and give you your 51:30 sr
Fun vid, but try not to make that T noise too often.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
3 күн бұрын
I'm still working on the sound. KZread is a steep learning curve to start with. I can't do much about my accent or "just how I am" though
@SqualidsargeStudios
3 күн бұрын
@@RichardsModellingAdventures that’s fair, i mean i was watching it while i was just awake. At that time i have really sensitive hearing. Also partially my fault. But again as i said fun fid to watch
That Cape Cod stuff looks like Duraglit which also smelled ace. Your vid has got me twitching to do either a BAE Lightning or MIG 15.
@RichardsModellingAdventures
16 күн бұрын
Great to hear it’s inspired you to have a go 👍😀Duraglit is like Brasso soaked in wadding, cape cod is quite different in both smell and how it looks. It’s like a pink colour and smells like ladies perfume. Duraglit will do the job really well too, I’ll give it a try. I’ll be doing an EE lightning for sure 👍