at first I thought you were talking too much but watched the whole video and wow how well you explain and really put in the time. keep doing what you're doing, because you're doing damn well

@curtrobinsongarage5452

Жыл бұрын

I do ramble sometimes, kinda hard for me to put my thoughts to words at times. But thank you for watching, and thanks for the positive feedback.

Curt, great job on the explanation of the parts, steps, do and don't do. I don't remember how I aligned the front seal, but I found a 1/4" drive socket the fit perfect. I could go all the way around with a nice tight fit. I serviced the donor vehicle before it came to my back yard. My son now knows what black ice is! On a custom wood & metal tube stand, I cleaned the injectors with my OTC pressure pot and 10% X66P / Top Engine Cleaner and ran 4 times with fresh oil & gage. Noted damp areas but then ran a compression test. I did want to pull the heads & exh. & int. valve seats look great. I had 190 PSI for high on a SnapOn tester and 182 for low. I was happy with those results. With everything taped, I used the cheapest oven cleaner from the dollar store. It works great on both metal cleaning operations, twisted wire end brush on a drill and wire brush. I do the knock sensors with dielectric grease, then seal top & bottom with high temp red. I have used the black GMS with no success and never use it. Gray is the same as Yamaha bond #2. It have never failed me. Plus the oil galley end caps, always a thin film of Loc-tite 518 red jelly. It is an anaerobic sealant that cures in the absence of air on machined flat metal. Excellent luck. I do use the Sac City Corvette "Bar-Bell" but eased the sharp edges inside the oil pump to all better flow during a sharp 90 degree turn. Be careful on oil pans in front of the "Bar-Bell". Most pans have an internal oil by-pass in case the filter becomes plugs. (Who does That?) But aftermarket pans don't have one or take a punch and seal it. You did good! I have told you before, you should have 10k subscribers. Blessings to you as my lumbar electrodes (#3) have failed. All hips and #8 rib but nothing in center up. Too much scar tissue and Dr did even tell me he couldn't get one out, my GP told me. So decades of knowledge is headed into a wheelchair in my 60's. That's life. Sucks sometimes so stay safe. DK, ASE master + L-1...

@curtrobinsongarage5452

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching as always, and thanks for your tips as well. I’m sorry your health has deteriorated, I hope you have some better days in the future.

No need to apologize for the video length, if everything isn't covered then mistakes will be made. I have an '05 LQ4 6.0 disassembled in my shed. I had picked it up for only a $100.00 bill. It has three spun rod bearings so a crankshaft replacement is necessary. Some of your pan and cover alignment methods are good to know. I may have thought of this when I'm assembling my engine, but now I'll automatically have these methods in mind when it comes time to put everything back together. I'll keep watching out for your videos, you're giving me more motivation to rebuild my '68 C10. Thanks Curt!

@curtrobinsongarage5452

Жыл бұрын

Your welcome!!! And thank you for watching. There will be more videos to come!!

I like your honesty man. Subscribed.

I like the idea of the bellhousing as the straight edge. A buddy and I get into similar projects. We have used the SAC City tools front and rear then snug everything down. Luckily no problems knock on wood. We did the same job almost eactly a few years ago, bearings rings, hone etc with the help of another friend that was working at a machine shop. Injector was leaking down on a high mileage motor that sat due to other life issues. We have replaced short blocks on other builds. Thje 97/98 rear cover has a deeper oil crossover over cast into the cover. 99+ has more depth in the block but less in the cover. I would not run the later cover on the early block. We thought about the early cover on the later block for more volume in the crossover but chickened out. The motor was a LS6 block seeing road coarse track days. The LS6 according to many is the most reliable and we weren't brave enough to be our own guinnea pig. Solid thought about build, the devil is in the details. If someone wants to do it right, they'll watch the longer video. I am not a professional engine builder, tech, or mechanic. I have friends that are and a good relationship with a local machine shop. I am always looking to pick up more knowledge as I can't afford to pay someone that I trust to do the work. Thank you for the detail.

@curtrobinsongarage5452

Жыл бұрын

Your right about the early LS1 cover being thicker, but the oil crossover channel is much narrower. The replacement cover is thinner but the crossover channel is much wider. If you factor in the steel gasket thickness I think the later cover will actually flow more. But I don’t know if any testing has been done on the matter. GM sells the later cover as a replacement for all production LS motors so I’m not really worried about using the newer style on my early motor. One thing I didn’t mention that I will touch up on in the next video is the block needs 4 dabs of silicone on the corners where the cover gaskets meet the oil pan. And I only use permatex grey for silicone. It’s the only thing that will last as long as the gaskets. Also as far as you working on your own stuff, I don’t blame you. It’s hard to find competent mechanics that you can trust. I am one and I can only think of 2 people that I would let touch my vehicles. It’s going to be interesting in about 10 years who is going to be fixing cars because there is a massive shortage of skilled workers right now. Thanks for the comments and as always thanks for watching.

@lamarw9901

Жыл бұрын

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 Agreed GM does sell the late cover as a part for the early block. It'd work for a cruiser/OEM application but if you're beating on it, I wouldn't trust it. Agreed on the permatex. Yes there is a shortage of skilled craftsman. Going to be interesting.

Its not good idea to lubricate bearings and crankshaft with assembly lube when meashure with plastigauge. Helpful video, congrats.

@curtrobinsongarage5452

Жыл бұрын

Normally it’s not, but setting a polished crankshaft in new bearings always makes me nervous. With the lube I use I’ve never noticed a difference in measurement wet or dry. Your point is very valid. If using a moly based lube it would indeed affect the measurement.

When using plastigauge it MUST be done dry, from watching it was obvious it was not

@curtrobinsongarage5452

15 күн бұрын

People keep telling me that and I’ve done it both ways. With the lube I use measurement is the same. But if you’re getting picky you should never ball home cylinders either. Nor should you really put pistons back in without snap gauging the cylinders and check for out of round. If this was a new machined block with a completely new rotating assembly I would do things a little different but thanks.