One other comment- the caps are actually supposed to be a tight fit. They are designed like that. They should NOT just slide in with a push from your fingers. That indicates worn bores or (less likely) mis sized U-joint caps. If caps slide in by hand, you should think about replacing that driveshaft yoke. You should need to lightly tap them in with a hammer, at least. I've been turning wrenches since the 1980's and I can assure you that Spicer designs their yokes this way.

Hers a pitiful story. I’m a heavy equipment mechanic and a few years ago my bosses son asked me if I could put a U joint in his F 150. He was just 17 years old and didn’t know anything yet. Lol. Come to find out neither did I. It was an easy one at the rear diff so I said sure. Go to the parts store and get it and I’ll throw it in for you. He comes back and says they don’t have one and there’s no listing for one ?? Come to find out there not replaceable. The caps are welded to the yoke and your suppose to replace the whole shaft. WAY TO GO FORD MOTOR COMPANY !! I did replace it and weld it back in but WTF FORD !!

It's a good practice to drive the first cup in deeper than it will end up. That way the trunion will reach further and allow the rollers in the other cup to ride on the trunion earlier, keeping them in place while pressing that cup into it's proper location, which will drive the first cup back against it.s snap ring. Not doing this procedure allows the rollers to fall out of place too easily.

When I was a kid I remember my uncle crawling under my dads old truck in the middle of nowhere replacing a u-joint. My dad always carried an extra in his glove compartment. I was amazed at how quickly he was able to do it with hardly any tools. Ingenuity from years of working in the bush. This looks much easier. Thanks for sharing.

Caps aren't supposed to fit loose, ujoints are a press fit. Not too loose, not too tight either. Pretty rusty looking drive shaft, if there's a next time, you should highly consider replacing it... cap bores also go bad. Nothing about replacing ujoints should be too easy or too hard, and they should always feel free with zero play once pressed in.

Bustin' knuckles since the 70's here. I'll add a handy tip. When you're re-installing the caps, fill them 1/2 way with grease. As you press them back in you are back greasing them. You will see grease come out of the zerk hole, all that's left is install the zerk fitting and viola' all greased.

buddy use a vice and press the cups out .

Finally a youtuber that knows how to do the job right, and respect the fact that cleaning and prep is the key to all good maintenance actions. Patients during disassembly will save you tons of headaches in the future.

I don't even use a socket. Just a small stout screw driver, a nice 2Lb hammer and cement floor. Just whack the yoke and then get the clips out. If it's a GM you have to rail on it or heat the plastic up. After the snap clips are out or the plastic is broken I whack the yoke to one side and remove the cap then back the other way to do the other side. I use no oil and spend very little time with a file or sand paper ever, it's not necessary. Just place the cross inside the yoke to one side and put the cap on it. Gently tap the yoke with the cap on the floor until it's flush, then do the other side. When the clips fit, if the joint moves freely you're done. If there's binding, rap the yoke a couple times. If still not then a needle may've fallen out. Rip it apart and correct it. Orient the shaft exactly as it was befor disassembly. Put the straps or U-bolts back in where they were originally. I put grease on the threads and tighten it tight and grease it until grease squirts out everywhere. I've been doing U-joints for 56yrs. That's how I do it for my own. ben/ michigan

Pretty sound advice, except the statement about the caps sliding in finger tight. They should be fairly tight so they can't slip inside the u joint. That bore in the u joint is worn. One trick I like to do is squirt a little CLEAN grease inside the caps to keep the rollers in place in case something stupid happens. (like dropping one accidentally). Leave the zerk out when you assemble everything so the grease in there has a place to go without pressuring the seal.

Excellent video Dave; good camera angles; clear , concise narration; well done.

The way you give knowledge and advice is really a joy to listen to. Thanks for letting us know about this channel. It really complements your other channel. If you’re gonna live off grid, maintaining your transport yourself, is essential.

Wow ! This is a nice and very instructive video. Very well explained and very well narrated. Also the camera positions are absolutely brilliants.Thank you.

Great Job to show is weekend warriors how to do this right. I have an '87 Ford 250 and it's my proud and joy and I made my living out of it after I retired from The Bell System and always lubed and oiled it myself and she could use these new U-Joints so you made it seem so easy so the new joints are on their way~!! liked and subscribed.

Thanks for the Video. Takes me back. 40 years ago I did a ton of these. I was lucky. I had a vise. Made it even easier. Constant velocity U-joints on full size RWD GM's were a little more challenging though. Makes me feel good to see a young guy willing to work and to do it right. You are a good man Dave.

Right off I was like yeah, yeah, yeah done this a hundred times. But after shutting my mouth and listening to your tutorial I learned a ton. I realize my past errors and they will not reoccur. Thanks man!!! AA+++

Thanks for the "break" from the snow removal job :) This info should come in handy when refurbishing my van before my next trip out to Rapid City. Thanks, Dave! God Bless ... see you down the road

Excellent instruction ! I'm a retired auto technician of 20+ years & this is exactly how you do it & do it right.

Thanks for the great video. I once replaced a set of U joints but it was a bear since I did not think to oil and clean the yoke thoroughly. I had one of those hydraulic jack presses from Harbor Freight Tools but it was still a bear in that I didn't not oil the old joint to get it out easier and like I said before did not clean the yoke. Lesson learned right here----thanks.

Very concise. I was really amazed the first time I changed out U joints at how easy it actually is to do but like anything else it's really hard until you know how. I got lucky in that a good friend of mine knew what he was doing and was more than willing, for the low low price of a six pack (which we shared), to show me the first time I ever needed to do it. Thanks for a great video that brought me back some good memories at the same time.