You have taught me more about caring for my guns in a few minutes than I have learned in 59 years of owning and using firearms

@BrassCatcher365

6 ай бұрын

This man truly is a credit to firearm ownership.

I’m a Luthier and work on guitars but wood is wood. I found the best thing to use as a sanding block is an artist eraser. They’re white rubber, 2”x 1”x3/4”. No hard pointy corners and they work better than any sanding block I’ve used over the last 35 years of building and repairs stringed instruments.

@JacobBerry-lo3bm

5 ай бұрын

That sounds like a good tip! Thanks

@DFox-ud3gx

Ай бұрын

I cut up flip flops for sanding blocks they sometimes work

@Dan-uk2nk

Ай бұрын

Wrap the sandpaper around foam pipe insulation.

Every time I watch one of your videos I learn something new about gun care. I am a newer shooter (20 years or so) but always try to get knowledge from Firearms Enthusiasts that have more experience than I do. Especially when it comes to older guns and milsurps. Unfortunately a lot of my older friends have passed away and with them I have the honor of carrying on their firearms and knowledge. I try to pass the knowledge on but always appreciate that there is always knowledge that I can soak up like a sponge. Keep up the great videos brother!

Husband works at a local gun store. He’s not a smith by a long shot. He tells folks all the time that owners do way more damage by “cleaning” their guns than will ever be done by shooting them. Especially the barrel crowns. Wipe off your gun metal with a silicon cloth to remove oils placed from your hands before storage is a good practice. Fingerprints cause rust in highly humid environments . We enjoy learning from you. Great job on the videos!

Good common sense advice. I have rifles and pistols I purchased new going back 45 years. Without exception, they all still look new. All I have ever done to protect them is precisely what you have demonstrated here. The only difference being I used Rem Oil until 1995 when I switched exclusively to pure mineral oil.

@Gary99.

Жыл бұрын

Can you explain your maintenance routine for me, I own a m1 so should I even apply grease to it ?

It’s so much easier to clean guns that aren’t oil soaked. Thank you for discussing this topic again. I’ve been using your advice on cleaning for a few years now.

Your input and knowledge is greatly appreciated. The rifles you show to demonstrate proper oiling are beautiful. Thank you!

You couldn't be more right about oil usage on firearms. I see so many fine firearms that have been bathed in oil over the years by their owners with so much destructive results especially on the wooden parts. I have refrained from any oil-on-wood applications for years. Instead, I use wax sparingly on wood. Renaissance, a micro-crystalline wax polish, made in England for their museum quality preservation methods, is extremely high quality and worth every bit of the cost. As far as the steel, blued areas, the wax afore mentioned works great. Longterm storage may require a light coat of RIG grease, but the waxing of these parts is usually enough to protect the firearm for years.

@efreutel

Ай бұрын

A definite ditto on the micro-crystalline Renaissance Wax! 👍👍👍

We truly live in the era where everything we hear, watch, and read, we should question (to put to trial and to the test). Some sources are so fundamentally flawed, so repetitiously, that I wont even consider the content for validity-testing. I just assume it is garbage There is only one place that I get information from, where I don't test the validity of the content and it is the GunBlue490 youtube channel. And those guns you showed, captain, are absolutely gorgeous! Take care and may God bless!

@robertlennihan3113

Жыл бұрын

100%

Really made me reconsider how I was taught to clean guns, I'd always been told to use a healthy amount of oil on a cotton ball or swab and go all around the bolt and moving sections. If this advice has any weight (and in my opinion it certainly seems so) than I've been seriously mislead on how to care for my old rifles. I hope the damage hasn't been too serious, I'll definitely be trying to re-educate myself and find more info along these lines on how to take better care in the future.

@joecascio2073

8 ай бұрын

Me too!!! Holy crap, I’ve oiled the heck out of all my guns

Keep the great info coming appreciate it. Always have my ears open for old tricks that still works so great today.

These kinds of videos and the overviews of different cartridges are my favorite. Thank you for the knowledge sir

I restored an old barn gun for a customer last year. It was a 1940s vintage Stevens SxS shotgun of little practical value. I tried to talk him out of it due to the cost, but it was a family heirloom he wanted to preserve. From what I could gather, his family had been oiling the metal and wood for three generations and much of it had solidified as cake inside the action, which I had to strip and scrap clean. The amount of oil I removed from the forearm and stock would have lubricated a motorcycle engine. I ended up drilling out the forearm screw holes and gluing in hardwood plugs. I strengthened the splits in the grip where it joins the receiver by using tiny brass pins and wood glue. I refinished the wood with stain and left the metal surfaces alone because the bluing was still adequate. The project reinforced my belief that after cleaning a long gun, a quick wipe-down with a rag to remove any excess solvent is all a long gun needs before reassembly. After assembly, I wipe the exterior metal surfaces with a dry or lightly oiled rag to remove any hand print salts. If the wood needs treatment, I use a light wax, then wipe it again with a dry cloth before putting the gun in storage or returning it to the owner.

I have purchased some older beaters that still had really good bores but had really been abused. These guns had already lost their value and were good candidates for restoration. I always get the metal hot blued by my gunsmith while I do the wood restoration myself. I use boiled linseed or Tru-oil on the stocks. Depending on the finish I'm going for it may take a month or two to build up the hand rubbed oil finish. I use a 50/50 oil and mineral spirits blend on the checkering. Usually, one good soaking coat then a light finish coat to protect the checkering. There is nothing fast about a proper hand rubbed oil finish. The restorations I've done come out looking like a fine factory finish with deep black bluing. While these guns are not high-priced untouched collectables, they do have another chance to be used and enjoyed and passed down to my family and are worth more than the abused beaters they once were.

@GunBlue490

Жыл бұрын

That's fine work to be proud of.

Thank you for your time and I look forward to your videos as I have just returned back to shooting after many years. Thanks again and I learn something new every time. All the very best. Rod from Australia.

I’m 70 and I haven’t looked that good in 60 years 😊😊😊…shoot I’ve got my grandfather’s Winchester model 1903 chambered in .22 Winchester Automatic made in 1906 and it is prettier and in better shape than I am and it still goes bang when asked with ammunition that is 75-90 years old 😅😂🤣🥲…I ask it on every anniversary of his passing and it goes bang every single time when called on…his mantra in taking care of a firearm was that “more guns are destroyed by improper cleaning than by shooting”…he hated a steel cleaning rod and steel brushes with a passion especially going from the muzzle end into the bore…you my friend remind me of him and that Sir is a complement 🥹🥹🥹…thank you for your channel 😊😊😊

This knowledge is absolute solid gold.....Thank you for sharing.

Good practical advise. Over oiling or oiling in places it should not be is bad. Light oiling on metal parts where there is friction with a good oil and a needle applicant in minor amounts is necessary. I appreciate your videos very much!

Wonderful video, as usual! Always look forward to your explanation as there’s always something I learn. Because of your knowledge and experience; thank you!

I’m glad you mentioned LSA has to be shaken. I had gotten some and it was clear, not thick and white, like in your video. I figured it needed to be shaken, but I wasn’t sure if it was just too old. I remember you said they dont make it anymore, and I think the can I got said it was from a while back.

I have a 1950s JC Higgins 30-06 and I've been wanting to treat the wood (since I don't know how well it was taken care of). I had considered stripping and refinishing it but after your video I'm of a different mind. It's the only gun I have that has wood, but after this I feel like I've been over oiling my pistols. When we cleaned our weapons in the Marines CLP was your best friend.

Nice video. Every new gun owner should view this. I inherited my Grandfathers .32 Stevens Favorite built around 1920. It was a mess after sitting in my fathers closet for 40 years. The finish was sticky and the wooden foregrip and stock had black stains. I took a slightly different approach from yours for restoration. After disassembly, I scraped the stock and foregrip, with a razor blade to remove the sticky finish. Then cleaned and degreased with paint thinner, Then acetone to make sure all the grease and oil was out of the wood. I bleached out the black stains with some oxalic acid solution. Then used teak cleaner ( 2 part ) on the whole stock for uniform color. For the finish: I used a filler stain on the stock and grip. 2. Buffed it down and applied 3 coats of BLO over 3 days. 3 Let it sit for 7 days. 3. Next apply 2 coats of shellac 4. Allow to dry overnight. 4. Use 0000 Steel wool and Carnauba Wax and rub out the wood. The satin finish still give it the 100 yo look. I did not use Varnish or Poly because they chip and scratch. With shellac you can touch up easily or wipe it all off with alcohol. .32 Rimfire Ammo is obsolete now, so the Favorite sits on its stand and I remember the summer day in 1960 when my Grandfather let me shoot it for the first time in Franklin Park - but that is another story. BTW : I was taught Paint Thinner for carbon, mineral oil for lube and protection and Lubraplate on the moving metal.

@onpsxmember

Жыл бұрын

Move on from razor blades and make scrapers yourself, give the burr and have the shape you want. Do you got pictures online?

Thank you so much for this video. There’s so many ways people do it and I’d rather take my advice from a bloke like you. I’ll be happy to support this channel once my better half is well. Watching you from Wagga Wagga in Australia. 👍

I've watched several of your videos more than once. This is one of them. Thank you.

WOW! I stumbled across your podcast when looking on how to re-oil my gunstock. I am recording this site in my logbook and will review it again and again. Thank you.

Thanks, I appreciate your expertise and tips . I know I probably have over oiled though I always tried to oil sparingly ,it still was more I see them neccesary. I use a 100%flannel polishing cloth dampened with hopped oil to wipe down gun metal and stock and I see that's probably all it needs. my 1954 Winchester 94...looks nearly as good as yours and I want it to stay that way. Same for my 1958 Marlin 336...in great shape and now I know how to keep it that way. I also learned about the LSA from your previous video and now use it on my AR. Always learn from your videos.

Another great video, filled with good common sense tips! Thanks for posting! PS - Missed seeing Bennie!

Another super-informative video! And your timing couldn't be better. I've got a walnut stock on order for my M1A SOCOM CQB (I don't like the blocky, synthetic Archangel stock that it came with), and I'll be sure to check it inside and out to see if it needs some boiled linseed oil treatment before installing the barrelled action and trigger group. Keep up the fine work!

I wish I had known this 30 years ago. I have been over oiling my firearms for years because that's how I was taught. "Keep it oiled up" they would say.

@GunBlue490

Жыл бұрын

In the Army, our guns were white glove inspected and we knew it was forbidden for the lieutenant's glove to get oily. We were to wipe all parts with oil and wipe them dry to the touch.

@cenccenc946

Жыл бұрын

throughout your video, I kept thinking of my father's story from WWII. They packed the guns in truck bearing grease. He got assigned to unpack them when they arrived in the Philippines. He said they spent days cutting the grease with gasoline. I don't think the Marines were too concerned about long-term collectible status of their guns at the time. 😂

@Kau75

2 ай бұрын

I did the same thing.🤦🏽‍♀️🤷🏼‍♀️

Your knowledge and expertise is priceless, Thank you for passing on your knowledge. Enjoy your videos.

Very timely video for me. Over the last year I acquired an old Swedish OU, an older Spanish SxS, and another really antique SxS. Since I don’t know their history for from 50-120 yrs, I wasn’t sure if I should do anything with the stocks. The metal parts for all my guns, inside and out, usually get a wipe on wipe off, very light Teflon oil to help with rust. Once dry it goes back together. They’re unfortunately stored in a fairly humid location, and it works super well, but the stocks I’m a little unsure what to do. I’ve seen antique gun after gun for sale that has a cracked tang, and I know it’s probably from oil, so I don’t want to over do it, but at the same time they’re being used to hunt in rain sometimes, exposed to humidity etc…. I want to be sure they continue to last. This winter I’ll pick up some linseed oil, give them a wipe, and leave them for a few years. I’ve redone a laminated stock on an old beater (I have a fair amount of experience working with wood) with Tung oil. It can be done like linseed if you get the more traditional type, or you can keep adding until you get a shine. Just for fun I went for shiny, and it’s really nice. It’s shiny, but has a tackiness to it for grip. Looks great, but the more natural finish, with the pores still visible is the only way to go for a wood stock though. Anyway, thanks for the video.

Thank you for this video, I had saved up and bought a very nice set of old remington long guns. I immediately took them apart cleaned up the grime and oiled them, now taking them apart again to clean off any of the excess oil! Had no idea it hurt the wood so bad

Excellent instruction! Thank you.

Thank You for this information ! It is exactly what I was taught 60 years ago ...

Your wisdom is so welcome! Thank you for your always informative videos.

Totally enjoy your videos. Your a great teacher and I always learn something! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge!

Since you’re so knowledgeable and accurate I figure id contribute the term “open grain” to the wood pore description you offered for the Beretta silver pigeon over under shotgun

Greetings from Buenos Aires - Argentina. Must say I´m not a fire arm user, but pneumatic one. However, most of your advices certainly apply to my compressed air rifles. Good work sir ... !!!

How can you not just listen and learn from his decades of experience and expertise without coming away with respect and thankfulness for his sharing

@JacobBerry-lo3bm

5 ай бұрын

Seriously 💯

Excellent tutorial! Thanks much. The mineral oil and cotton cloth was implemented here some time ago after your initial video on such. Stay warm this winter and add a milk bone to Benny's bowl for me!

@GunBlue490

Жыл бұрын

He's had two already this morning, and he'll get another from you!

Great stuff friend. Thanks for posting.

You are a treasure of knowledge and common sense, bravo sir! And thank you for this priceless advice

Fantastic as always. Interesting to see when actual knowledge comes up against misguided advice. Thank you!

Thank you again sir for sharing you knowledge and wisdom with us. Best wishes from Australia.

Learned more in this one vid than I have in my many decades of firearm ownership.

Sound is fine now, Great video, very informative , Thanks for sharing

I use boiled linseed oil to remove scratches on the stock and sometimes apply ballistol to protect the stock.

Hi Gunblue. Thanks for another great video. It looks like it’s going to be a beautiful day today here in NH. Hopefully you and your M1A can find your way to the range! Have a good weekend.

@GunBlue490

Жыл бұрын

Thanks! My task today is to winterize the boat and put it up for the winter. This beautiful calm air won't fight the tarp. I generally avoid the crowded range on weekends. I ran a number of powders and test loads through it the other day and things were quite interesting, so I'll have some things to present very soon.

@TTT-du6oj

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Gunblue for all the great advice,very important to know these things,God Bless

Just knowledge at glance. Thank you for posting.

You have one of the best gun channels on KZread. Thank you!

@GunBlue490

Жыл бұрын

Thank you and God bless.

What a treasure chest of resource info! Brilliant educator God bless you sir. Thank you.

Thank you for taking time to make this video, I always learn something new from you.

Looking forward to your M--1 video! God bless you, the Mrs. and Benny!

Thanks for another great video. Perhaps you could help me to understand more about not lubricating semi automatic rifles (specifically the AR15 you mentioned). In shooting classes, I've seen more than a few AR-15s stop running. The instructor has helped them to get them running and each time the "fix" was to lubricate them. These classes often use 4 or 500 rounds in a dirty dusty conditions. I haven't got near the experience you do, over the decades you have, so I'm not doubting you. I would just like some more clarifications. Thanks again for your time

Great information. Thanks again. GOD Bless You Sir.

Sir, first off, thank you for a treasure trove of information that has enhanced my education. I know you have covered it several times in various videos, but, I was wondering if you would consider an in depth look at the 1911 and the merits of the design? Thank you again for all of your knowledge!

Learning is about being open to new knowledge and people being willing to disseminate that knowledge. Thank you!

Uniquely brilliant channel. Absolutely essential information that I’ve never seen anywhere else. Many thanks! 🙏👍👍👍🤠

I am your age and have been shooting probably as long. But I learn a lot from you on gun care and other aspects of guns.

Gunblue is the reason I roam the eastern deer woods with a 1956 Model 94 in 30-30, and not a ten pound Remington 700 with a bipod a 3-9 power scope.. Thanks for the advice. Always glad to know how to best take of my investment.

Great video my friend you have taught me alot.I have a few cracks in the stock of my ithaca 37 shotgun I bought in 1978 after I ets from the army.I agree I believe the oil drained into the wood .Thank you for the video.

Thank you Sir for your valuable information, I found your channel this morning and you have been very helpful.

I just watched on a reputable American gun accessory manufacturers channel where they were hosting a discussion on How To Care For Your AR-15. They had two ex Army (and ex police) gentlemen who were advising that we should wet the chamber with oil and that the excess would spray out through firing the weapon. Out of deep respect for their devoted service to the community, I did politely reply this type of lubing was dangerous and I ultimately conveyed the advice that one should follow the directives of a reputable owner's manual, such as Colt or Armalite. I may also steer the readers to your past instructions, but I didn't want to start a contentious situation for you. These were a couple of really great guys that have been sadly misdirected and they are publically misdirecting the AR owners out there. The last thing I want is to line up at my local range with a guy who's cycling his AR and showering me with a mist of oil or, even worse, getting hurt beside me. This type of gun care has to stop before this happens. Thank you captain for the years of good advice that I have learned. I am blessed that I found this channel!

@GunBlue490

Жыл бұрын

Thank you. I've no idea why this wet lubrication myth ever started, by whom or where. As much as I love them all, having worn a badge or fatigues for our great nation are not gun maintenance credentials, and the perpetuation of such dangerous nonsense is what I'm hoping to curb, at least for the benefit of my viewers. In actuality, an AR-15 will fire continuously and marvelously, without a drop of oil until the barrel dies. Placing that drop or two of LSA on the forward part of the bolt simply arrests the wear of two relatively inexpensive and easily replaced parts.

Thank you for your wisdom.

What a great informative video from a man who knows what he is talking about thank you so much.

Thanks for the tips on gun care , YOU SIR have grand knowledge!

Excellent video! I learned a ton here! Thank you sir!

I got a Garand from the CMP that I thought had a blackened, oil-saturated walnut stock. After drawing out the oil and cosmoline with Acetone, it turned out to be a birch stock!

GunBlue, another great video. Informative, concise, good common sense and a bit of humor. Keep 'em coming sir. I'm so tired of seeing beautiful old firearms with black edging where the wood and metal meet. Do you recall an oil from years ago call CLENZOIL? It was marketed as a "do all", cleans, lubricates and preserves, for use on gun metal, wood and leather. Never made sense to me, but I'll bet they sold a ton of it. Why oil wood? We kiln dry it to take the sap and moisture out of it. Why oil leather? We tan it to take the oils out of it. Ok, I get a very light coat on blued steel (especially where the bluing is worn away) to protect it from rust. But don't soak it. All the best to you and the family. Cheers, Jeff. P.S. my guns talk, they bark loudly.

I bought an interarms mark x in 308 about 8 years ago. First thing I did was I took the wooden stock off to look if it had oil damage. Someone had actually bedded it. No oil damage or cracks inside, or outside it looked almost brand new. I bought a composite mouser stock for it.., fitted and bedded it , put the wooden stock away for later. It shoots great. You are right!! Ive seen so many stocks damaged by oil. Great videos

@JG54206

Жыл бұрын

My father left behind a .30-06 bolt action, rifle with a Mauser action. I believe it is also an Interarms. Admittedly I know nothing about Interarms but I can tell just from looking and the country of origin (Czechoslovakia or Yugoslavia) that it is a dead copy of the Mauser 98 action. Huge claw extractor, tab to remove the bolt on the left of the receiver. Doesn’t have the flag style safety though.

@burrco3086

Жыл бұрын

@@JG54206 they are good guns.

One of the best videos so far.

Thanks for another great video, GunBlue.

I used wood stocks in long periods of rain and cold wet weather. Using a good wood wax or sealer inside and out, wood has no problem lasting more than 100 years. Mineral oil has no additives and makes it important to use. The product called Rig made by Birchwood Casey Universal Grease works better or as well as mineral oil for the same reason. Bluing is rust, using a rust-removing lubricant will over time remove bluing. Wood needs more attention in dry conditions the same as wet. Letting them in a hot car will damage wood stock finishes and plastics. Long exposure to sunlight is damaging too. Think about how old the tree was the stock came from; add the years it might have taken to cure the blank. Add the years of the age of the firearm and fine tight grain wood is likely closer to 200 years old. Plastic firearms do not hold the value of wood and steel firearms. 🤔🙂 You sure gave excellent advice on this video subject.👍

Just picked up a early WWII M1 Carbine. Looking to do some careful stock maintenance thanks for the video.

I watched faithfully as a long time subscriber and also reside as your neighbor in Northern Vermont. As you know the first day off rifle Deer season in Vermont and N.H., or Maine brings in either rain or snow and rain mix which is great to silence the crunch of all the fallen leaves in the hard woods areas (which is very welcome) and as we both know It happens this way more often than not, which brings me to ask your advice about that as conditions where one should oil to give it a chance to repel water. I suspect these in climate conditions are the root cause of our finding as you mentioned, tell tale signs of over oiling in many older and desired hunting rifles, dark spots on stocks etc, by folks over the years trying to combat foul weather possibly... My made in 1949 model 94 in .32 Win Special still looks great and is due to a history of using Ballistol and a wipe down if it was subjected to foul weather and it has seen plenty, and as you have mentioned in the past really good and or hardened steels such as gun metal and parts is not prone to rust easily, and the gun makers also blue that metal to repel rust or corrosion for us on top of that. What is your opinion of the German made Ballistol, as it was developed for use to keep soldiers rifles in working order in the field in the worse conditions.... I use it and it leaves the slightest film after wipe down and keeps my rifles looking great for that day in the future when I'm long long gone and some folks then are looking them over and commenting on their condition and their wonders of "if this gun could talk" because, guns do in fact out live their owners. I think we want to leave positive opinions, and topics such as you cover in your gun videos are on that right track! ...... Thank you for reading my comment, and thank you for your lifetime of contributing to our sport with videos such as this one and your sharing true knowledge it is appreciated.... Best Regards and God Bless.....D.

@onpsxmember

Жыл бұрын

He doesn't like it as answered in a different comment. And while it's been around forever, doesn't mean jack shit. I know it's somewhat new on your side of the pond. While sitting in the state of Bavaria, we all tend to look at foreign secret options while for example the Japanese look for western things and there are lots of wild west shooting clubs in europe and classic US cars are collected. Just like WD-40 and the company of the same name, there are more products besides their old do it all offerings. I'd keep both off of guns. And WD-40 far away from ammo.

That was better than excellent! Invaluable info (ie mineral oil).

Thanksfor the report!!

Thank You For Sharing Your Knowledge ! I Truly Appreciate Learning Your Tips And Suggestions. GOD Bless You !

I did refinish an SKS stock jist because I wanted the look of the new finish. I didn't touch any area that comes in to contact with any other parts as that would damage the fit. After watching this I'll make sure it's wiped down properly after being in the safe for a while even though I always wipe off excess Rem Oil from cleaning.

Good “ CLEAN “ advice. Thankyou.

Howard feed and wax works great on walnut gun furniture. It will preserve the wood on older guns. Great topic of discussion you bring up.

@hylineprime

Жыл бұрын

You really don't owe me a thing. I enjoy your channel. I have learned some things from you. I just thought you would want to try something that works good for me. It's great on all gun stocks. I know you know what I'm saying , when your out in the snow., or rain hunting. I dont worry about my stocks. I know my metal is protected by a lite coat of gun oil, and the stocks as well. Thank you for being real in this fake world we live in.

@onpsxmember

Жыл бұрын

@@hylineprime Don't answer that, that's a scam! That isn't Gunblue490, or the name in the comments would be just that. The same scam is done all over youtube, mostly on gun related channels.

Just wanna say thanks for the video's, this is only my 2nd video an you got my attention, i now follow you, great job

Funny, I use boiled linseed on the wood on my boat and was thinking it would be great on my gun. Thanks for this.

A note for older firearm stocks, some have a shellac finish over the linseed oiled stock (common for Russian/USSR) and linseed or any other oil on top of shellac won't do much. You can identify shellac by its reaction with alcohol (spot test), take the time to research proper care of historic shellac finishes. Shellac is easily refinished and repaired without removing the original coating. Really great advice on "less is more" for the care of firearms.

Thank you for these videos really helpful!

Sir you have thought me so much with your videos and I thank you for all you have done to teach greens like me. Thank you from the bottom of my heart! God bless.

I was never really happy about how my guns looked, no matter how I treated them. Today I followed your teachings and whoah: they look like they're in the store... Now I just need to figure out how to clean all the oil and grease out from the yet-untouched ones. What you teach is truly true: it's simply a machine made out of metal - don't overcomplicate it. Also I extend a BIG thankyou: I was also never happy with clp's. To me these are the same as those magic products that claim to clean, polish, seal and wax your car's paint and all in one go... I never found information on what to use as cleaner - here I got solutions. My service-pistol looks as new, doesn't stink or even smell and does not leave an oily imprint wherever you put it... 🥰 THANK YOU for being a voice of reason!

Excellent video, great advise

I learn so much watching your videos! Thank you so much!

I never knew not to use gun oil on the wood. I've learned so much

You are the best gun guy on you tube!

I turned 70 this year, and I don't look near that good! Great video and info! THanks!

Great info! Like a class in gun maintenance!

In my area chambers must have a VERY light coating of oil during storage. If not they will rust and pit. Recently I saw a rifle that failed to extract. They had to tap the action open (broke the extractor in the process) just to get the casing out. The casing had rust imbedded in it from the chamber walls. After the brass expanded to seal the chamber it could not release. It took many hours, a bronze brush and 50 patches to get the chamber clean without scratching it. I used a slightly undersized bronze brush and rolled the patches around the brush and applied solvent and then finally oil. The bronze brush held the patches snuggly around the inside of the chamber wall. The chamber having a slight taper made things challenging and I had to repeat this process using different sizes.The amount of rust I got out of that thing was incredible.

@GunBlue490

Жыл бұрын

All gun surfaces, including the bore and chamber should always be wiped with a light coat of oil. That's entirely different than the unfortunate saturation often given.

Sir, you are the best of America.

Excellent advice, thank you. Most of my firearms see very little, if any, shooting, as they are over (or close to) a century old. When I rotate my display, or want to pay particular attention to one, I apply a *VERY* light treatment of conservator's wax, specifically Renaissance brand. The guns all stay in perfect condition. My "shooters" get the same treatment! Stay well! (Subscribed!)

@TorLangvand

11 ай бұрын

I also use Renaissance Wax on my guns, and also my holsters every now and then. Its the only thing you can use on holsters, according to Milt Sparks 🙂.

@kbjerke

11 ай бұрын

@@TorLangvand 73 de Karl, VE3GUN

Thanks for the tip on flax seed oil. I've searched for raw linseed oil but have never been able to find it except in small, artist's sized amounts. Raw linseed oil used to be used to preserve the wooden gutters on old New England houses.

@GunBlue490

Жыл бұрын

Boiled linseed oil is quite readily available at any hardware store wherever I've been. Flax seed oil/ raw linseed oil has no driers and will not harden for up to seven weeks. It's commonly found in the same aisle as paint thinner and other painting supplies.

@chaimafaghet7343

Жыл бұрын

Linseed oil is used on cricket bats, if all else fails look for bat oil.

@3ducs

Жыл бұрын

@@GunBlue490 Not at my local Aubuchon. But there are sources that sell it for around $49/gal. I want to use it for wood preservation on my house.

@cjr4286

Жыл бұрын

You can buy raw linseed oil from Garand Gear, as well as tung oil.

@onpsxmember

Жыл бұрын

@@3ducs But why? Modern finishes can take more abuse and add UV-protection.

Thank you!!

I have an Inland M1 Carbine marker 2-43. I have longed to understand the care of this 79 y/o stock. Thank-you.

I use Johnson and Johnson wood paste wax on my stocks then I air dry and buff it with a shoe brush.This same wax don't hurt the gun metal aswell.