Very nice video!! Found out that if you close the bleed port on the lever and then pressurize the system at the rear caliper and close it using the bleeding edge tool you get a lot MORE responsive brakes since you're not letting the pressure out when you unscrew the siringe at the lever port and it's also less messy.

@davidpancerz5820

2 жыл бұрын

100% spot on Moises! While waiting for my Park Tool bleed kit to arrive I watched plenty of KZread videos on the subject with Clint's being about the best as usual. However, this important step is nowhere to be found on YT, rather I stumbled upon it during a deep dive on one of the SRAM Forums. Just replaced pads, cleaned the sticky pistons on my front caliper and bled the system. Applying slight pressure prior to closing off the bleeding edge adaptor makes all the difference. My brakes have never been this good since I took delivery of the bike almost a year ago. Kind of gives me renewed faith in discs versus rim...

@kyledavis635

2 жыл бұрын

@@davidpancerz5820 Was glad to have found your comments here, as well as the person you replied to. This procedure worked great. I don't understand why Sram doesn't instruct it this way?! Closing off the system at the lever port makes no sense. Btw, was the forum you referred to the one on Pinkbike re spongy brakes? A couple other aspects that I think help - dialing the contact point adjustment most of the way to the "In" position - vs. all the way to the "Out" position, which Sram instructs. This allows you adjustability to firm up the brake without it getting too close to the bars. The other is using a thinner bleed block. The prescribed bleed block that Sram uses is quite thick - which again results in less fluid being introduced into the system and possibly resulting in spongy brakes..

@davidpancerz5820

2 жыл бұрын

Indeed it was the Pinbike site within the Mechanics Lounge Forum (Sram guide ultimate rear brake spongy). Took me a while to find the post from Slabshaft but I'm glad he shared such detailed information. I'm really hard on tires & brakes and replaced rear pads again just the other weekend. And your suggestion to dial in the lever adjustment point is also duly noted in addition to a more slim bleed block.

@deadfinggerz

2 жыл бұрын

Doing this actually adjusts the brake bite point, i.e move the pads closer to the rotors. Which is the same as using slimmer bleed block. I'm using a 9mm bleed block. This is much more consistent as you don't need to guess how much pressure you need to apply before closing the caliper bleed port.

@kyledavis635

2 жыл бұрын

@@deadfinggerz Good tip.... thanks! Where did you get a 9mm bleed block? Do you ever have any issues with rub?

Honestly one of the best videos I've seen for bleeding SRAM brakes, or really any brakes for that matter. Good stuff man!

@adamolastero3728

5 жыл бұрын

he made it look too easy, maybe I should buy that SRAM bleeding kit...

@ethanbuehlig

4 жыл бұрын

Agreed.

@frankiebonales4072

3 жыл бұрын

I agree. I saw the GMBN and Park Tools tutorial. Clint's version is the easiest to follow.

Good video! When closing the clamp, pull the syringe lever -- you'll get lots of bubbles forming and going to the top. Do it 4-5 times and there will be enough air out of the fluid. When doing the syringe pull, you can clamp the other end, so you can pull the other syringe with both hands. I found that taping the hoses and the caliper/lever still releases a couple of bubbles.

Great video, you’ve convinced me to buy a bleed kit and start doing it myself.

Nice job man. Really masterful presentation - clear and unambiguous.

The only video you need! Wish I had found this 2 years ago. Putting up with substandard braking for too long as my poor technique only lead to slight improvement. Thank you

Excellent video. Really concise and helpful. I figured it out in 10 min after watching it a couple of times. Then I did both brakes! Thanks for posting it!

Clint thanks for this video, like most others have said this was so easy to follow. I did make one huge mistake and pulled out the 4 mm bolt with the leading edge tool. I figured it out quickly and bled the system again. I now have firm brake levers, thanks again.

What a difference a bleed makes! Thx Clint!

Best sram video I've seen. Great help. Clear and precise with no waffling! Everything you need, nothing you don't..... Why are some videos 20 mins long I've no idea!

Thanks Clint, this video made the job so much easier.

just did my rear brake with this video as a guide...worked out great...thank you! (been riding less than a year....found it easy with this video!)

Very, very good video. Saved my butt today with super clear instructions.

CGMBN - not just on the podium, taking gold here. This is excellent and I thank you, sir. Bookmarked forever.

Very informative and your bleed makes it more easy to follow then the SRAMs.

Really clear descrition of what to do - thankyou.

That was the most helpful video I've seen on this yet. Liked and Subscribed!

thanks for the video. I saw a few others, including the GMBN tech one and they were just confusing. This one is clear and shows all the steps.

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

This is the CGMBN (Clint Gibbs mountain bike network) 😉

I’m gonna perform this service soon thank you for the how to!

From the UK, thanks so much mate! I almost snapped a santa cruz in half trying to bleed the sram brakes before I seen this video. If you haven't already bought the new sram bleed kit, with that cool little gizmo, get one!!!! Thank you

Lots of good tips in there. Well done.

great video and presentation. one of the very best on the youtube... I will try this. Thank you for uploading and helping others... Do make some other videos on MTB

Thank you! Very easy to follow!

Probably the best video on how to bleed sram breaks. Better than that GMBN BS or sram videos. Keep the the good work man

best video so far keep it up

Awesome video - super clear steps.

I should have watched this before going to the shop yesterday

I have Sram guide R brakes and I bought a Sram Avid bleed kit at my local bike shop and the guys there said it would work with my brakes....but i am having issues with it and I really could use some advice. Thank you for the great video!

good timing. just got A GLORY 2 that uses Guide brakes. seems a bit different from my shimano kit.

Good video - very straightforward and I like the helpful hints found in the replies. I do wonder why SRAM do not have bleeding edge at the lever end as well as the caliper.

great content as always. SRAM instructions say use the lever syringe to pull the fluid up to the lever syringe and not push from the caliper as this cause excessive pressure on the Bleeding Edge tool, causing it to dislodge. I did it from the caliper without issue. THen I RTFM. Who knew?

Thanks for your video. Can you do one on how to service the Fox dpx 2 shock?

SRAM's "Bleeding Edge" technology is a worthwhile upgrade. I bought new calipers for one of my bikes just to get away from the old method of brake bleeding. Plus, the Bleeding Edge compatible calipers are a better design than the non-Bleeding Edge calipers. SRAM's pro syringes with rotating tips are worth considering if you are doing brake bleeds frequently.

I rather watch big dawg Clint then the sram video. Thanks Clint!!!

Thanks, Clint!!!!

SRAM Guide T brake tune-up: Trying to solve excessive lever movement in my brake - before stopping action begins... Normal bleed didn’t work. Internet forum agrees with me. Solution: made spacer 1mm thinner than my pads&rotor combined thickness. With pads out, squeezed lever until pistons contacted my “bleed block”. Added fluid at lever end. Push-pull several times - as per this video. Spread pistons a millimetre or so to get the front wheel rotor back in. SOLVED! Addendum: Oh yeah, I cleaned and lubed (with brake fluid) the caliper pistons by moving them out by hydraulic pressure a little more than their normal range. Swabbing with Q-tip, then pushing pistons back in w/ plastic tire lever. Repeat a few times. Called “exercising the pistons”. Helps get all 4 of them all moving together. I’ve done this before. Helps a lot. (See Henry’s video at GMBN Tech). Result: brake action begins MUCH earlier in the lever’s throw. (Perfect). Next overhaul/tune-up will require 1/8 the time. Now I know!!! ME >>>>>>>HAPPY!!!!

@sweetylop2969

4 жыл бұрын

I did that and it really helped, what you said it's everyone's problem with these brakes and it's true thx for the tips

Great video. Very clear, straight to the point with just the right level of information. I have just bled my GUIDE R's for the first time, with the video running in the background. My brakes are now the "dogs bollocks". (Which means Good) 😉

Awesome mate 👍🏽

Very good ,better put than Sram"s keep up the good work

Better than the gmbn video in every way

Holy handle bar grips there, lol

Also, I like to clean with brake cleaner after the bleed to be sure no DOT fluid contaminates my pads or rotor.

Hey Clint, thanks for you awesome videos. I wonder if you can help me out. My sram rival caliper bleed port is with a t10 screw. Does it mean it's not the bleeding edge? Is it classic one?

Thanks!

Very nicely done video! Still not going to invest in SRAM brakes though...

Thank you.

Thank You

After watching this, found bleeding my trance 29er brakes a doddle, so thanks. The main of this comment is that I cannot remember which grips you use. Was out on the Trance today in the cooler weather and kept getting pins and needles with the stock grips. So looking at changing grips. Cheers David - Perth Western Australia

@ClintGibbs

2 жыл бұрын

In this video the Niner grips are on the bike which are really good. You may want to try ESI foam grips. Get the chunky version.

@davidhodgson7764

2 жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs thank you, I can get them locally too. All the best.

@davidhodgson7764

2 жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs had first ride with the new grips, and no pins and needles! Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

When you pressurise the system and pull up at the lever do you find that the harder and faster you pull up then you create bubbles so do you only do it slow and slightly

Nice vid thanks

Is the specialized enduro 2017 fsr good?

Is it possilbe to flush the fluid like you would in the brake system of a car, where you pull enough new fluid via the brake fluid reservoir at the master cylinder to displace the old dirty fluid and then close the bleed port at the caliper.

Great video. Just wondering if there is a step missing - to degas the fluid by creating a vacuum?

@irvmtb1422

4 жыл бұрын

SRAM's more recent bleeding guides have skipped the degassing step. Forums say it's either unnecessary, or that the syringe is prone to letting outside air seep in and isn't really able to pull a vacuum and may be prone to introducing more air.

Great video, I just got new Code Rs, I trimmed the line, used the Stealthamajig barb and olive, following bleeding directions exactly and I'm getting just a very tiny bit of movement from the rear pistons after trying to bleed 4 or 5 times. Pumping lever 20+ times, the pistons are just barely moving, Frustrating.

@mikesuarez9780

3 жыл бұрын

Same here. When I pull on the lever syringe the caliper one doesn't even budge. Even when I push on the caliper syringe it's super hard to get it to move?

@richATTK1

3 жыл бұрын

@@mikesuarez9780 I ended up giving it to my local shop, who also couldn't bleed them. They sent it to Sram and I got a brand new brake under warranty. They said it was a faulty lever.

@mikesuarez9780

3 жыл бұрын

@@richATTK1 I may end up having my LBS take a look. I got it to work but, it's mushy as hell!

Great video. I'm curious how you dispose of old oil?

@justinbristol8315

5 жыл бұрын

Great question.

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

I have a recycle container that I use for any kind of oil or brake fluid. When it gets full I take it up to the automotive store to recycle.

Got sram code rsc brakes what a pain in the rear . Slow returning lever and no bleeding fixies that . I paid to replace the full rear brake as I needed it fast £160 and dammm same issue

@Frank__K

5 жыл бұрын

Great video, would love any tips for the same issue. Bled my friend's Code Rsc with fresh fluid with the same sram bleed kit used by Clint, lever would not return. Left it for two days and and would slowly return. By day three, lever return and bite feel was perfect.

@LuisManuelHdez

4 жыл бұрын

Sram brakes are 💩 and unfortunately on so many good bikes. My new Stumpjumper has these brakes and I freaking hate them already! Going to try to bleed them but more than likely they'll be gone soon and replaced with Xt or Magura M5s. These things dont be long on high end bikes that cost so much!

@rainey06au

4 жыл бұрын

@@Frank__K You need to open the lever and file/sand down the plastic plunger just a tad. It's common for this plunger to seize in the barrel. I just did mine and this hack worked a treat.

Very helpful, thanks. What is the procedure if the old brake fluid comes out dirty and needs to be replaced?

@ClintGibbs

2 жыл бұрын

Like I said at around 5:15, refill the syringes and start again. If it's been a long time since you bled I would add a little bit more fluid to the lever syringe so you can make sure you flush everything out.

If Sram brakes worked, this would be a useful vlog.

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

I was a Shimano guy for brakes for a long time... still am, but I've been using SRAM on my mountain bikes for the past 3 years and have had no issues for their mountain bike brakes. I like their modulation. Road brakes are a different story.

Nice video!! Quick question if the caliper pistons needs to be pushed back in when do you do this? I would assume when both syringes are open so it pushes the fluid?

@ClintGibbs

Жыл бұрын

Yes, do it with the syringes open but before you push fluid back through

@reysir707

Жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs thanks

I've not bled brakes before, but why two syringes? Why not push the fluid from top or bottom? ... Maybe from the bottom, as air bubbles would tend to move upward? Would this be the same procedure for a total fluid change? Just got back from a trip to NC. After a downhill on Kitsuma, my rear brake stuck and the pads needed pushed apart with a flathead screwdriver. The brake functioned ok for about 5 min before it acted-up again. Thanks for posting this video.

@ClintGibbs

2 жыл бұрын

The second syringe basically catches the fluid so none leaks out. Sram is considered a closed system bleeding procedure. DOT fluid is corrosive and toxic.

Great video. Thanks. 2 questions if you have a moment: 1. After completing this process and assuming the DOT fluid is clear I presume I can return it from the syringes to the bottle for next time? 2. My pistons always seem to protrude a little (so much that the larger block that comes with SRAM kit won't fit). I try to push them back in with the tool but usually without much success. I completed bleed anyway but is there some problem I may be missing if pistons don't fully retract? Thanks again. Excellent bleed video - I've been through them all over the last few days and yours helped me complete my first bleed with confidence.

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

I typically only reuse DOT fluid if it's from a brand new brake system that I had to install and cut the hoses to get the lines through the frame. But in theory, yes, if the fluid is completely clean and clear you could put it back in the bottle. Really up to you. As far as the pistons, first try squeezing them a little bit and letting them come out and then push them back in. Do this a few times, only letting the pistons come out a little bit. This can lubricate the seals. I have had times where it's hard to get the bleed block inside but I've always managed to get it in there. I guess you could use a file and file down the edge of the bleed block to make it a bit narrower. But you really need to have something in there when doing the bleed. With SRAM the bleeding edge tool is so good you could take a chance and leave the pads in and leave the wheel on the bike. Most of the time I don't think you'd have an issue but just remember if you ever get fluid on the pads they will be ruined. Hope this helps.

@GregSouthcombe

4 жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs Thanks again.

@1900e

4 жыл бұрын

Lubricating the circumference of the pistons with brake fluid helps. Here's a park tool video to explain how to do that without making problems worse kzread.info/dash/bejne/qIWMqKiggqXbpNI.html

best video on bleeding sram code .. thank you so much one question thou. so you are not really purging all of the fluid as much as you are mixing new with old ? i am used shimano where you push the old fluid into the cup

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

If the old fluid is discolored then push it all the way out. If you don't have enough in the syringe then just add a little bit more so that you are completely putting new fluid in.

@jsinnott5952

4 жыл бұрын

Clint Gibbs thank you so much . I watched it again last night and it was very clear . thank you again for making video , it’s hands down the best one on this topic .

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

👍

@chipdouglas1983

4 жыл бұрын

Good question - I had the same thought. You would think this would be standard practice for all of the effort a few more ml of fluid is worth it.

Anytime I need to bleed my Sram brakes, I come back to your video. Thanks!

Hi I have the exact same brakes but on the rear calliper the bleed screw is chewed up and there is not way to open it ? Any idea on how to get it out

Epic! That only took me 10 minutes. Way better than shimano's system. Plus I like sram brakes better. I'm sold!

I dont even run sram brakes why am i here lol

@dep1001

5 жыл бұрын

Haha same... but I might at some point :)

Curious....if you could flush out all the dot brake fluid .....could you replace with mineral oil ? What would happen do you or anyone think ? (I don’t plan on doing this...just wondering)

@DAZ1925

5 жыл бұрын

I believe the seals are of a different spec for DOT fluid and mineral oil, so I wouldn't recommend it

I think when my SRAM brakes go out, it will be Avid mechanical brakes for me. Hell I'd go to V-brakes if I could. Never had an instance where I needed more brake.

@justinbristol8315

5 жыл бұрын

Better modulation and overall stopping power, if need be. Agree however with the ease of maintenance, i.e. 0. My $0.02

Clint is it same process for front thanks 👍🚒

@ClintGibbs

2 жыл бұрын

Yep

I’ve bled brakes a fair amount of times and lately I’ve been thinking of trying to do a a few tricks to try and get a shorter more punchy lever feel, I’ve heard a few guys run the pad contact adjustment in the middle during bleeding, and I’ve also been wondering if using a thinner bleed block would allow more fluid to be in the system creating less lever travel to lock the brakes up, thoughts ???

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

I think a thinner bleed block would be the best way to go. You're going to be introducing more fluid in the system. The only caution is if DOT fluid ever gets some moisture in it can expand which can almost lock out the lever. I've seen that happen a couple times.

@andrewcox7416

4 жыл бұрын

Clint Gibbs ok cool thanks for the info, I will be trying this soon and will keep you posted

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

👍

@th_js

4 жыл бұрын

@@andrewcox7416 So how did it go..?

@chipdouglas1983

4 жыл бұрын

I can confirm your theory works base don my Magura MT6 - especially for the rears where there is more cable run and more expansion losses from the cable. Setting the pads closer with a thinner rear block is the way to go in order to make the firmness even for front and rear levers.

Thanks! Quick question: I have a Guide T brake and the pads seems to want to always be in contact with the rotor slightly. There is no air in the system and I have pushed back the pistons several times and let out fluid too, but the pistons always stop slipping at the point where the pads are slightly touching the rotor. I have tried centering the caliper with the mounting bolts as best as possible, so the issue doesn't seem to be there. Any ideas?

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

I've actually never run into that issue. How new are the brake pads?

@4centhotdog

4 жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs They are brand new. I had to let some fluid out initially because they were too full. Maybe I can let a little bit more out. I think I might try putting some thin shims between the rotor and pads when centering the pads and maybe I can prevent the pistons from over-slipping. Hayes makes a tool for this. It's like the seals don't flex far enough before they want to slip.

Clint, do you know if the said kit will do for bleeding with the Force Etap AXS electronic shifter hydraulic disk brakes?

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

I think so. This kit comes with the bleeding edge tip and also two regular ones.

@LeoInterHyenaem

5 жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs :) Thank you, Clint!

I followed the procedure,untill there were no air bubbles comming out from the lever side , and the caliper side. It grabs well and releases ,but it seems thst it could crab sooner. It closes the caliper aprox. Half inch from the grip. Is thst normal ? Thank you

@ClintGibbs

6 ай бұрын

Does your lever have a pad contact dial?

what alot of hastle im so glad i have shimano

@garyshute7426

4 жыл бұрын

I had Shimano before and thought the same. Until I just watched this video and did my first Sram bleed ,it was very easy and to be honest it was nice having a second syringe to catch the brake fluid.

I have a weird issue where the bleeding edge tool has stopped "clicking" into position on the rear caliper. I've checked the port for dirt etc but it seems fine. Have you ever had this? It's still possible to bleed the system, I just have to make sure to support the caliper syringe else it pops off and dot fluid squirts everywhere!

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

I have not had that issue. Was the rubber plug over the port? In other words was there a chance for a debris to get in there?

@superspecky4eyes

4 жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbsYeah, the rubber cover has been in place and it is not the bleeding edge tool itself because it works fine on the front caliper. It's a real head scratcher because it was fine for the first couple of bleeds, then suddenly decided to stop "latching on" to the syringe. It's just a pain because it makes a fiddly job even fiddly'er.

When my guides need bleeding I know where to come

What's your take on these newer Guide Rs? Issues .. no issues? I hate them and only 2 weeks after bike purchase already having problems! Wish my Stumpy had came with Xts!

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

At this point I've had no issues with them. With SRAM You do have to get used to less initial bite but more modulation.

@LuisManuelHdez

4 жыл бұрын

I like power in my brakes. At 6' 2" 220 lbs I need it. These brakes just dont have it. Tried to bleed them to get more initial bite to no avail. Rear brake stutters a lot under hard breaking. I think they're just not my cup of tea.

@ClintGibbs

4 жыл бұрын

@@LuisManuelHdez good to have choices 😉

Do you still need to strap the lever back with a toe clip like in your road brake bleed video?

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

No. The process with this bleeding edge tool is so much easier.

@frazhussain2211

5 жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs Perfect, how often would you recommend bleeding these type of brankes

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

@@frazhussain2211 really just when the performance starts to decrease, is it when the lever starts to feel softer. Or of course if you have to cut the lines for something. If neither of those situations occur than I would say maybe every year or two.

So here's a problem, when you remove the syringe from the lever end, yes a bunch of fluid comes out...along with a loss of pressure. End result is a mushy lever. IMO the lever end should also have a bleeding edge tool so you could then pressurize and close the system without losing fluid and pressure

@anjummohammed2498

3 жыл бұрын

I am also experiencing this problem. Did you manage to resolve it?

@Kaedenfu

3 жыл бұрын

@@anjummohammed2498 another commentor pressurized the system by using the caliper bleed port. You close the lever bleed port, then push the syringe with the edge tool on the caliper then close the system. Hope this helped.

@85gregbrett

3 жыл бұрын

U sure your lever piston seals arnt shot?

@asifitmatters1

Жыл бұрын

@@Kaedenfu that’s a good way of getting a little extra “bite”!

"if you do, they will be ruined." - right up until the point where you run a torch on them.

@ClintGibbs

Жыл бұрын

Well, I will admit I have never taken a torch to brake pads. Have you tried that with resin pads as well?

@vdubjunkie

Жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs I can’t say I have. I would guess a torch would be too much heat for resin. In all honesty, I didn’t realize they were making pads from resin. That seems a bit nuts. I’m sure they’ve figured out a mix which can stand up to the heat generated by braking.. 😳

What do you do with your left over fluid?

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

Good question. I have a recycle container for any kind of oil or brake fluid that I use. Then I take it to the auto parts store about once a year to recycle.

@povtrails1219

5 жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs Good to know. Thanks!

А как быть если воздуха в системе нет,все процедуры выполнены строго по инструкции,но колодки лежат на роторе.Тормоз новый.Укорачивалась линия.

Rear brake still squishy , maybe air in the line?

@ClintGibbs

3 жыл бұрын

That’s usually the culprit. Or, if the pads are very thin and you used the bleed block, you may want to try bleeding with the pads in if you have the bleeding edge port. Just be careful to not get fluid on the pads.

No water on the rag, DOT fluid attracts water. If you get water in your system it will boil and introduce air.

can anyone tell me why sram uses DOT ? or why shimano uses mineral oil ? would like to know their reasoning.

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

I would like to know too! I know that DOT fluid has a high boiling temperature. But kudos to Shimano for making brakes that work well without DOT fluid!

@frankstrobel4350

5 жыл бұрын

Maybe sram owns stock in a brake fluid company ?

@3g0r3

5 жыл бұрын

Sram uses DOT because it's a regulated specification. This means it has to meet a minimum standard for use. There is no regulation with mineral oil.

You didn't do the air bubble step , tapping on syringe..it was in my instructions, maybe not necessary

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

SRAM doesn't recommend that anymore. I think they realized it didn't make a difference.

@dean3845

5 жыл бұрын

@@ClintGibbs yeah, seemed like an overkill ..since you're pushing the fluid thru ..I bought an aftermarket for my avid brakes .. worked ok..I was a bit apprehensive , but it's easy and not that difficult ..I had more trouble with my sticky pistons, one side was sticking even after cleaning . All good, thanks

When it’s time bleed your Sram brakes... save time and money by switching to Shimano

@justinbristol8315

5 жыл бұрын

Why Shimano? I'm riding both but curious as to why you lean towards Shimano

@kawirider338

5 жыл бұрын

I’ve had a set of Shimano brakes remain consistent for years. I need to bleed my Sram Guide R’s almost every 2 months to keep them feeling consistent.

@LuisManuelHdez

4 жыл бұрын

It's only because Sram brakes suck!🤣 I've had my bike 2 weeks and brakes already started failing. No power (fade) levers go all the way to bar and rear brake stutters badly!!

Wear eye protection.

If only Sram could settle on either Torx or Allen....it's annoying.

Am I the only one who struggles getting pads in 😂😂😂

@DriverDude100

5 жыл бұрын

Are you having trouble with the geometry of inserting the pads into the caliper, or are the pistons not retracting into the caliper body? Reinserting the pads should not be difficult.

@willbennett7107

5 жыл бұрын

Just lining them up with the pin pistons retract perfectly

Did you kill whatever was making the background noise... while not touching the brake pads with fingers? Anyway. The kits go for over 100 EUR - which is crazy (psst - uuuhmmm that's the currency people use in other countries). Having simple syringes from a chemist's or even from an animal shelter will not do a worse job - as long as you buy the correct adapter for SRAM's relatively new invention - these cost from EUR 3 to EUR 12 on Aliexpress and take abt. 2-3 weeks to arrive anywhere in the world. Unless you want to bleed your bleeding edge on the edge of the world - ie, in Arctic or Antarctic... Anyway. The guy seems to be residing on some high shelf - as we say here in Latvia - or has his head in stratosphere. A torque wrench for bleeding your brakes? Don't forget your torque wrench when you go for a pee - might come HANDY! Jeeez. Don't think the pioneers of MTB had this guy in mind when they came up with MTB. Or maybe they did - who knows. In that case he might be the lucky chosen one - the ONE who they specifically thought of. Imagine - Garry Fisher racing down the California mountain... with a torque wrench in one hand - and this guy's photo in another. Wheeee-heee! Edited: last time I bought brake fluid - it cost abt. EUR 4 for 250ml and was made by Brembo (so definitely not worse than the one labelled Avid/Sram). Also - you put a rag with WATER around the bleed nipple? Wasn't brake fluid supposed to be hygroscopic? Also - I don't think it's 75-80 mm to the centre of handle. It's 75-80 mm to the handle bar at the right angle (perpendicular) to the handle bar. In order to get air out of fresh brake fluid, create strong vaccum in the syringe - by closing the clamp and pulling strongly the syringe cylinder out - then open the clamp and release the air which has been extracted through the nipple. The whole procedure seemed a bit off. So the torque wrench will sure come in handy. Edited II: found an older video from Mountain BIke Rider called "How to bleed your SRAM Guide and Avid Elixir disc brakes" - here, the sequence of attaching and removing syringes seemed a bit more on point.

IM THE FIRST. I really don’t care that I’m the first

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

🏆

I sincerely hope you didn't touch your shirt with those gloves on.

@ClintGibbs

5 жыл бұрын

Nope

I would not ride a bike that uses DOT fluid...mineral oil is way better!

Who was the mastermind behind these brakes? No doubt he was a complete idiot. They requiere a lot of manintanance, they are hard to work, and dont last more than a year cause dot is corrosive and destroys the seals. Not to mention all the tools you need are sram specific. They are simply horrible. Dot 5.1 on a bicycle? Dot 5.1 is only used on high performace superbikes.