What do mean the overhead segments sound different? www.3dpprofessor.com/2020/03/03/how-to-3d-print-accurately-by-3d-printing-legos/

@Outofthedust

4 жыл бұрын

Your audio level is lower when doing video overhead.

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

@@Outofthedust yes it is. I even boosted it.

@alanb76

4 жыл бұрын

Not just the level, the acoustics are quite different.

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

@@alanb76 Better or worse?

Most informative, comprehensive and helpful video on this topic that I have come across. Kudos

As others have said, X and Y movements are mechanically defined by the pulley diameter and the deg/step of the motor. Z movements are by deg/step of the motor and the "pitch" of the lead screw. The extruder will have some variation due to the design of the teeth in the job gear, but is mainly based on, again, deg/step of the motor and the diameter of the gear. The linear distance of filament moved will not deviate for a given step count unless, as someone stated, the gear bites more or less into it. Only the extruder should be compensated for in the slicer. If X/Y/Z are not accurate then the steps/mm value was changed from factory defaults or you should look for other problems that need correcting.

Few more points from me (to anyone interested, please don't take them as a criticism), going down the rabbit hole: 1) A more common (alternate) way to calibrate extuder steps-per-mm (or flowrate %) is to measure the difference before the extruder, ie. measure 120mm of filament away from the extruder body, make a sharpie mark, tell the printer to extrude 100mm, measure the distance to mark, do the math. Amongst other things, this is easier to measure to a higher precision given the same tools. 2) The flow changes between filaments come mainly from a different effective radius of your drive gear as it bites deeper/shallower into the filament. This is also why PETG tends to need more steps (or flow %) as it is softer, the drive gear teeth "sink in" more, reducing the effective radius. Similar for ABS. Filament width differences still matter, though not as much in my experience (with cheap PLA). 3) As mentioned in (2), effective radius matters. If your printer has an adjustable tension knob on the extruder, set it once, calibrate and don't touch it! Tightening/losening will throw off your calibration. 4) Setting your steps-per-mm for X/Y/Z to a measured value rather than a calculated one is, in some circles, considered a bad idea as it hides real problems with the mechanical system (like skipping microsteps), which will manifest unreliably on shapes more complex than a 20x20 cube. Try printing slower or increase current to your motors. Also check for loose pulleys, loose belts, loose motor mounts, belts running slightly diagonally to X/Y axes, etc. 5) A 20x20 cube is a horrible accuracy test, print a 100x100 flat hollow square instead - any inaccuracies in size will be much more magnified over larger distances. 6) Square your printer in X/Y, X/Z and Y/Z, ie. thing:2563185. If you cannot physically move the rails, turn on SKEW_CORRECTION and input your measurements. 7) Turn up your cooling fan / focus it better. FFF printing, like welding or casting, suffers greatly from accuracy losses due to thermal contraction while (slowly) cooling. A powerful fan will cool the outside of a printed track fast enough to lock-in the as-printed shape. For the same reason, consider printing on a raft as a hot bed will cause the first layers to cool differently (when the print finishes), deforming it. 8) Perform step (1) with different extrusion speeds - many people report different values for different speeds (even though it makes no sense). This may again indicate mechanical issues (microstep loss) or a clogged drive gear. If you can't get repeatable results using the same speed, the drive gear or tension bearing may be bad (non-circular) or badly mounted (different effective radius during one rotation), etc. 9) Enable and tune linear (pressure) advance, BACKLASH_COMPENSATION, ..., tune your acceleration values to eliminate ringing (Teaching Tech made a great video about it recently!). 10) Use an SLA printer. :)

@MarkLawry

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for this reply. This clarification is important

This was super helpful, I was able to figure out my flow rate was very low (.35mm for a .4mm nozzle!) and was able to successfully print a lego for the first time!

A very nice video! I have been wondering how to gain better dimensional accuracy and now I know! Many thanks!

Great explanation. Feels like common sense often doesn’t help if you don’t know every component and how they work exactly. Learned a lot here

Great video Joe! A lot of good tips

This are the tubes we need more great topic prof.

Thanks, lots of useful info in this episode.

Just started printing at .06 layer on my Crappy Geeetech A30. the Original Lego Bricks I printed did okay but the top didnt click into lego legos very well. I still need to try the model I adjusted to see how they fit on the top. I have the Bottom of the brick dialed in

Loving it! Still have a ton of Dino's to print from your last Kickstarter! :)

Just pledged on your kickstarter, you rock Joe. Keep it up.

I am confused, if the nozzle is 0.4mm and your measuring 0.4mm then this would imply that the filament coming out of the nozzle is not being compressed slightly onto the previous layer, I was always under the impression that you wanted the layers so "Squish" into the previous in order to get adhesion on a bigger area rather than the tangent of the two round layers of filament. And yes, I know there is consideration for the fact that the layer height may only be 0.2mm but that would only mean slowing down the filament flow, but it will still come out of the nozzle at 0.4mm wide and still need to be squished onto the previous layer. I may be slightly over simplifying this but I would have expected the resulting width of the wall would be perhaps 10-20% wider than the nozzle ? Can you comment on that please ?

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

The bit about the layer height being smaller than the nozzle diameter is paramount to the conversion. Also, in conjunction with that is the movement of the X and Y motors. You can slow the feed of the filament such that the .4mm cross section is squished into a .4mm wide (and 0.2mm layer high) shape that won't oversquish out the side. Now, if you're thinking that getting it to oversquish out the side is good for being completely sure you're getting that you're getting optimal layer adhesion, you can do that, and some slicers let you make that adjustment. But in reality it's not proven to be necessary. I suspect there's something going on as well with the fact that the filament is still a little liquid coming out, resulting in some wicking action allowing it to grip the previous layer, especially with silk filament where layer lines seem to disappear, but I'd need a microscope on a high speed camera to test that.

Where can we find the calibration cube for the flow rate? Thanks 🙏

Thank you. Been printing for a few years now and kept going round in circles .... calibrating , adjusting steps, calibrating, re adjusting...... and all that time was forgetting to calibrate the flow . Just done my CR10 v2 and Anet A8 and miraculously both now print heaps better. Thank you love your videos

Excellent video but you missed an important item. Different material have different expansion and shrinkage characteristics like PLA vs PETG. This will also have an effect on accuracy.

I guess this is a good general view of how to calibrate a machine. Question. If you like marlin so much why not change your firmware?

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

Not all 3D pritners can take Marlin.

I love your chanel, I really want to meet you some time to discuss the whole 3D printing world and what it has to offer. If you ever come to Australia look me up

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

As the odds of that happening are very slim, dispite me really wanting to, I'll say "yes".

One of these days when I get a filament printer, this will be one of those vids I will come back to refer to! Thanks for the tips :)

what 3d printer do you use ? plz reply

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

All kinds. I have a 3D printer review playlist that will tell you some of them

Also calculation your movement is wrong, you don´t calculate a movement of a system by it´s end product since many more variables go into that like flow rate, material shrinkage, humidity etc. You can simply tell your machine to move the X axis by 100mm and measure a before and after just like you would do with the filament. This is really not best practise, it´s somewhat in the ball park but it will way longer to calibrate your printer properly this way.

How to recognize if you can't print properly: you have a bed slinger, has open frame, print with PLA instead of good technical materials (PETG), cant control chamber temperature properly.

@3dpprofessor

2 ай бұрын

I'm more successful with PLA than anything else, especially with open frame bed slingers.

Hmm I'm confused, there seems to be two calculations for the flowrate value, which one do we use?

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

(Expected / measured) * 100

@mick_hyde

4 жыл бұрын

@@3dpprofessor Thanks for the reply, I understand the math, but it seems to calculated twice, early in the vid and then again later. Both say they are flowrate.

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

@@mick_hyde Time stamps would help this conversation, I think.

@mick_hyde

4 жыл бұрын

@@3dpprofessor 11:30 and 15:20 ish. Seem to be two flowrate values.

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

​@@mick_hyde They are similar calculation. The first at 11:30 is for calculating the flowrate. The second at 15:20 uses the calculated flowrate to calculate the scale correction. But they are the same idea.

Cool video!!! Isn't Lego suing thingiverse for their design? 🤔

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

Be sure to watch the "Lego FIasco" playlist linked at the end of this video and in the cards. The first video in that series explains it best.

thermodynamic is a thing to

I disagree that an oval shaped hole means you have crap printer. Most likely the printer's belts are too loose and need tightening. Belt tensioners would be a good investment. Other hardware problems can be fixed as well or the printer can be modded to work. Yes it will take some time and skill and money, but any poorly working printer can be made to work better with both hardware and software tweeks. Saying a printer is not good enough to print certain parts just means you are not willing to put the time and effort to make it work better. I have been working with my printer for a couple of years now and have just now gotten it to the point where it prints decently and somewhat accurate. Yes there was a lot of frustration, but I did not give up and I enjoyed the time I put in. I still have some work to do though to make it better. Replacing the 8-bit main board is high on my list to make to my printer next.

@3dpprofessor

Жыл бұрын

You clearly haven't tried the Easy Threed K7. Even the manufacture is like "Yeah, that's just beyond what it can do" when it comes to small holes.

@zk_6312

Жыл бұрын

@@3dpprofessor interesting, sounds like an awful machine. Still, I would think you could mod it so it would work. Oh, it is one of those mini things. Yea, that is piece of junk. You probably could get it to work, but you would have to take it completely apart, replace the plastic parts with metal. It looks like metal rods might even be plastic or hollow tubes. I never understood why anyone would even want to buy of those. You get what you pay for.

@3dpprofessor

Жыл бұрын

@@zk_6312 hey, it's $99, so give it a shot and let me know how it goes. Also, check out the Ulio, a 3d printer made out of Legos. I haven't tried it, but even it's developer won't comment on the quality it can produce.

@zk_6312

Жыл бұрын

@@3dpprofessor Actually I saw one for $61 on ebay, but no thanks. Better off putting the money toward another ender 3. Actually I would love to buy a corexy, but that is out of my budget.

Your calibration method for flow calibration is flawed 1. What should extrusion width be with a 0.4mm nozzle ? A min. value should be nozzle dia. + layer height (0.4mm+0.2mm = 0.6mm) Why so ? Because the nozze has a bore where material comes out and the sides will form half a circle on each side otherwise layers will not stick together at all and a value lover than this is inpredictable. 2. Now set your flow rate to 100%, extrude a hexagon (has more walls than a cube, but a cube would work as well) with 1 outer wall and no top layers as you have shown. Now it is way easier to predict the correct dimension since our min. value would be 0,6mm instead of 0,4 which is incorrect and physically not possible, that´s why EVERYBODY ends up with a value greater than 0.4mm and then "tunes" it´s flow rate to under extrude. Back to the topic. Now you usually end up with something like say i.e.0.64mm alright 0.6mm/0.64mm *100% = 93,75% -->94% Now try this value out. BUT!!! This is only true for Slic3r, Prusa Slicer and Super Slicer since this slicer automatically recalculates the gap between two walls, other slicers like Cura do not! For Cura your Extrusion width should always be a littler greater than measured line width. So say your Cura profile has a line width of 0.5mm and you print a single perimeter at 100% flow rate, you should measure something like 0.6mm which means with 2 walls you will have excess material of 0,05mm from one wall and 0,05mm from the other so your squish will be about 0.1mm. This topic is more complicated than some might think! And BTW if you say something like: "NO! I DoNt WaNt tO UsE a lInE wIdT oF 0.6mm" don´t worry, after tuning with 0.6mm or even 0.8mm which is far more reliable than 0.4mm you can revert back to 0.4mm once your calculation is complete, just know your printer will never print with 0.4mm this is just the setting in your slicer, it is simply physically not possible to do so. But that´s not a problem with a setting of 0.4mm you will get better details anyway. And the great thing is you can print 0.6mm or 0.8mm or even 1mm with a 0.4mm nozzle as long as the "flange" around the nozzle exit hole is flat and big enough. I am printing come contauners in Vase mode with 0.8mm line width, the printer does not care what nozzle size you use it will just squirt out more material through a smaller hole which will create a little more pressure in the system but that´s it, you can print with those huge line no problem you don´t need so switch nozzles.

PrintABloks: printabloks.com/

Hey, could you put some black electrical tape on the 'O' on the enclosure behind you? no real reason, just... do it.

@WrongWayFPV

4 жыл бұрын

Haha.. I see it 🥦🤣😂

Lego, not legos! The plural of Lego is Lego! It's like sheep!

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

Only if Lego wants to stop treating it's customers like sheep. kzread.info/dash/bejne/X4mN2dGrd5m-fqQ.html

@Johnny5Toy

4 жыл бұрын

@@3dpprofessor your point doesn't make sense? When your say "Kleenex" or "Hoover", or even "Google" that's exactly what you say, their name! You don't change it, or and pluralisation. "Lego" will not care if you say Legos, as that isn't their name. Nothing to do with them. You are making excuses for being incorrect. Just the American way I'm afraid. Its Lego.

Cool animation!!! Subscribe't!!!!

consider changing you mic

my anet a8 passes this test

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

Cool. Print you some legos!

copyright claim in 3.. 2.. 1..

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

If they haven't claimed my past 7 videos on this topic, I'll be fine.

The audio is just terrible.

Sorry dude I can't listen to your video, the sound is awlfull and painfull to listen too, you really need to do some quality control on your videos, this is not the first time its happened

@3dpprofessor

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, you see that lav mic? The sound on it was better, except for a constant repeated popping coming through that would have been like a woodpecker on your eardrum. It's a brand new mic, so I've got to figure out if it's the mic or my recording device. I swear I spend more time doing QA for other people's stuff than I do making these videos. Sorry this was the best I had for you. Would you have preferred I release nothing?

@MelonFarmer68

4 жыл бұрын

@@3dpprofessor TBH considering I couldn't watch the video due to the sound then it was the same as if you hadn't released it, which is a great shame as I really like your content and look forward to seeing your videos pop up on my viewing page, hope you get your sound sorted by next video.