How Rick Owens TRICKED the fashion industry

Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль

Follow me on instagram: karsten_kroening
karstenkroening.com
0:00 Intro
1:08 The Problem of The Fashion Industry
2:47 Rick Owens Early Years
4:52 How Rick Escaped the Fashion Cycle
In this video I talk about Rick Owens DRKSHDW, Maison Margiela, Helmut Lang, Comme Des Garcons, Alexander McQueen, Jil Sander.

Пікірлер: 139

  • @judegabbard2081
    @judegabbard20816 ай бұрын

    He married an incredibly rich woman very well connected in Paris, that pays for everything. It was pretty easy and no trickery required.

  • @edwardduarte7393

    @edwardduarte7393

    6 ай бұрын

    Ditto...

  • @disastervillain

    @disastervillain

    6 ай бұрын

    came here to say this - while the intention behind this video is good and there are some very useful takeaways one cannont separate Rick's success from Michelle. He's been in a position to not HAVE to sell because his partner was already rich and connected (like you said) other designers mentioned in this video and most of us do not have that luxury. The fact of the matter is he has this position because his vision, business acumen, and talent but Michelle as his muse /supporter and his bank account enabled for any of it to happen.

  • @Clear24chris

    @Clear24chris

    5 ай бұрын

    Lamy was not "incredibly rich" lol. She had a small fashion line herself and owned a restaurant. She was comfortable in LA but not crazy rich

  • @thetree9399

    @thetree9399

    4 ай бұрын

    She wasn’t rich but she definitely had connections to the LA art scene. She didn’t own all those businesses at once and they didn’t seem to last very long. It was the 80s, you could “breakfast at tiffany” your way much easier back then. Rick was also a heavy clubber in gay places and being gay (or bi) in a city gives you way more connections, some arguably weird or gross ones but lots of connections to artists, interns, models, photographers and such and such. If you did something interesting back then, people paid more attention.

  • @saikanungo2084

    @saikanungo2084

    3 ай бұрын

    Hes still super talented tho

  • @BrazenBull001
    @BrazenBull0017 ай бұрын

    That's why he's called Tricky Ricky

  • @karigrandii

    @karigrandii

    7 ай бұрын

    I was wondering why everyone added the T and calling him tricky during the paris fashion week after parties.

  • @ajantsmith6139

    @ajantsmith6139

    6 ай бұрын

    Is that what they call him? Do they only call him that behind his back or what?

  • @morbidzombii

    @morbidzombii

    6 ай бұрын

    tbh he just makes clothing that appeals to the generation of fake emos and everyone wanting to be mentally Ill.

  • @damonjones1920

    @damonjones1920

    6 ай бұрын

    btw thats a common nickname for people with the name rick

  • @CalvinDavis0

    @CalvinDavis0

    Ай бұрын

    rizzy ricky

  • @Commonsenseisntcommon666
    @Commonsenseisntcommon6666 ай бұрын

    As someone who works in the industry as a designer with factory experience, this is true. Vertical manufacturing is the best way to control your product quality, distribution and margins

  • @daviddahl8186

    @daviddahl8186

    6 ай бұрын

    My understanding is Calvin Klein had financial difficulty in the late 90's from the production side with the factories they had at the time. Rick Owen's is expensive compared to other designers like Issey Miyake or Etro.

  • @understitchYT
    @understitchYT7 ай бұрын

    Such a great video, just one small note you made at the end, McQueen actually didn't have to sell his company, he was doing quite well actually, but he chose to sell so that he didn't have to take on the burden and to spite Bernard Arnault who he really hated

  • @Sew_OzzyWar_Made_This

    @Sew_OzzyWar_Made_This

    7 ай бұрын

    Oh, the pettiness 🤣

  • @piercenigel4670

    @piercenigel4670

    3 ай бұрын

    the story of how he went to kering is marvelous! @understich, talks about it in her video about him. and it's always good to see bernard arnault taking one in the chin.

  • @theuniversalmastermind
    @theuniversalmastermind7 ай бұрын

    It really tells me besides being a brilliant designer he’s a smart businessman who doesn’t care about the level of expansion other houses go through . I’m sure he’s being offered obscene amounts to be bought and so far he said : thanks I’m good on my own. He hasn’t even produced a commercial perfume to carry his house. We all know it’s not bags and clothes that rake in that money to maintain a quite dusty brand like Chanel or what saved Mugler / Gaultier when the fashion became tacky in the end. I find him intriguing and genuine in serving his own world rather than plaster his name everywhere.

  • @ernestoh429

    @ernestoh429

    6 ай бұрын

    So perfume is what saved Mugler?

  • @theuniversalmastermind

    @theuniversalmastermind

    6 ай бұрын

    @@ernestoh429 after he left his house the collections were not the main income source. I'm old enough to have worked in those industries and at that time the launch of perfumes kept the house going .

  • @JeuneF

    @JeuneF

    6 ай бұрын

    ⁠​⁠@@ernestoh429Perfume is what save and has been saving many fashion houses for years. As it’s their main income source for most

  • @carpediem4512

    @carpediem4512

    6 ай бұрын

    Chanel is dusty?

  • @uunnoov
    @uunnoov7 ай бұрын

    Rick has amazing foresight and his character shines through his decline of the fast cash path

  • @RichardKilleaney
    @RichardKilleaney6 ай бұрын

    I'm impressed with the confidence that makes this all sound correct! My response: read more. I agree: Owens has done some amazing things in keeping production close to home and controlling distribution. Fashion when Owens hit in the 90's is not what it is today. You're missing a major moment disregarding Charles Gallay and other retailers, who not only sold the clothes to celebrities but connected Owens with leather companies. And selling via Gallay and Maxfield was necessary to legitimize the brand to Vogue so that the funding for the show would happen. And Michele Lamy knew everyone: the celebrities and the factories. And she connected Owens with Revillon, which funded the move to Paris, which funded the opening of the Paris store. They both knew Lori Rodkin, which resulted in the Hunrod jewelry line. And the owner of Atelier New York, Karlo Steel, one of the first NYC stores to stock Rick Owens, was the backer to make the NYC store possible. In all, nurturing business connections with everyone is what has made the Rick Owens brand successful. In short: being nice and on top of business stuff like paying bills is a huge reason the Rick Owens brand has succeeded. It's a false comparison to think that Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela sold and left the industry due to lack of success; they followed a different path.

  • @niceclaup1

    @niceclaup1

    6 ай бұрын

    Wow, the deep cuts... do you have social media too? Cause I wanna go there

  • @RichardKilleaney

    @RichardKilleaney

    6 ай бұрын

    Nope. Just a lowly fashion professor who's of age to remember stuff and hopes his students read. "BEING RECOGNIZED BY AMERICAN VOGUE PROBABLY GAVE ME THE CREDIBILITY THAT MADE THE DIFFERENCE. AT THE TIME." It's all posted to Owen's site. @@niceclaup1

  • @disastervillain

    @disastervillain

    6 ай бұрын

    this this a million times this. Rick is very talented but you cannot separate his success from Michele especially her investing into him made it possible for him to be in a lot of the positions mentioned in this video.

  • @YoogiNation
    @YoogiNation6 ай бұрын

    his big break was a celebrity wearing his clothes for no apparent reason. so u needa be lucky too not just good

  • @jemma5608
    @jemma5608Ай бұрын

    That runway performance with the step dancers was incredible

  • @piercenigel4670
    @piercenigel46703 ай бұрын

    the nyt visited his paris home and wrote about it. it's gothic teenager 101. skulls, shaved-head people, with slipknot make-up, hairless cats, a painting of a cemetery, art with body fluids, industrial feel. so basic, it makes me doubt his clothing a bit. specially after the balloon boots.

  • @momophoto
    @momophoto7 ай бұрын

    Love how much substance you’ve packed into this video! tbh this is the first video about Rick Owens I’ve seen that isn’t packed with off-putting hero-worship

  • @coolman000099

    @coolman000099

    7 ай бұрын

    I agree . Good video

  • @neony2k815
    @neony2k8156 ай бұрын

    ACTUALLY there is another factory in moldova where working conditions are mostly bad and noone seems to talk about it

  • @sectare
    @sectare6 ай бұрын

    super informative video also loved the use of washer for the outro

  • @TheRockrm
    @TheRockrm6 ай бұрын

    fascinating. it really is a ruthless sector of the economy and owning the entire chain of production can be used to advance your craft (or be a cheapskate depending on the person). also your designs are very pleasing and now I know a nice new place to shop! keep it up!

  • @jcheungtv
    @jcheungtv6 ай бұрын

    Great video, loved the B-roll edits for this one Karsten

  • @pvrq_s7881
    @pvrq_s78817 ай бұрын

    7:13 That fact just makes you realize how innovative Rick is regardless of the limits pushed on him

  • @inkarlcerating
    @inkarlcerating6 ай бұрын

    The way he recycles and reuses his patterms saved him a lot of costs tbh. Great business strategy 🖤🖤

  • @epasuxelar4473

    @epasuxelar4473

    6 ай бұрын

    All fashion brands do this, some very blatantly. It's basically a necessity to keep up each season. Trick is to make it slightly updated each time so you don't notice it as much

  • @almalauha
    @almalauha6 ай бұрын

    Hi, thanks for this video! I hadn't really heard of this designer as I don't care for trends, but this was a great story to watch! Just goes to show that having a long-term vision, a long-term plan, and going for slow and steady really is the way to go if you are about being around in 5, 10, 25 years. Love this!

  • @HouseofYarally
    @HouseofYarally6 ай бұрын

    I use to work for someone that uses the same methodology and design principles. Unfortunately it’s easier to make clothes then it is to sell them.

  • @simonbinguingi7733
    @simonbinguingi77336 ай бұрын

    Great descriptive video loved it 🔥

  • @safa1one
    @safa1one6 ай бұрын

    Very cool vid about having control of your own business, also Karsten your clothes are dope too!

  • @ryanlifematters
    @ryanlifematters6 ай бұрын

    Nice video 🎉

  • @thebrotherhood7006
    @thebrotherhood70067 ай бұрын

    I see the fleece sample, very cool

  • @NIGHTTIMEstudio
    @NIGHTTIMEstudio6 ай бұрын

    This was a great video. Insightful concise

  • @11kindpunk11
    @11kindpunk116 ай бұрын

    beautiful analysis

  • @mrfinance234
    @mrfinance2347 ай бұрын

    yo that westside gunn instrumental goes hard

  • @kevinbachman6578
    @kevinbachman65786 ай бұрын

    Very informative. Well done.

  • @pvrq_s7881
    @pvrq_s78817 ай бұрын

    Happy 23 years Karsten

  • @rhinerei
    @rhinerei6 ай бұрын

    Such a well made video!

  • @TheSkyCactus
    @TheSkyCactusАй бұрын

    The rick ramonas are literally the only clothing item that survived the swag and hypebeast era, and is still embraced by current streetwear and younger generation

  • @seviregis7441
    @seviregis74416 ай бұрын

    Excellent analysis, thank you. Rick was smart, made all the right moves

  • @wikkidize
    @wikkidize7 ай бұрын

    nah, he used more factories, for 2003-2005 he also used another factory in italy, and later on also the factory in moldova owned by olmar

  • @josephmorales652
    @josephmorales6526 ай бұрын

    Woah shout out to you for having a collection

  • @NYBornAndRazed
    @NYBornAndRazed6 ай бұрын

    That choreography from his Viscous show was amazing

  • @Sew_OzzyWar_Made_This
    @Sew_OzzyWar_Made_This7 ай бұрын

    Essentially, what Rick Owens does is what I advise to new designers - build, produce and don't worry about growing too fast, and build a relationship with a manufacturer/factory 🥲 Amazing video!!! You're sew right, you have great points!! And I'm ashamed of myself for not looking more into Rick Owens business model 🙃 .... You're inspiring me to look more into fashion brands business models 🤔

  • @noxfish8714
    @noxfish87147 ай бұрын

    rick da numba 1 finessa 😈😈

  • @seanmartinez8415
    @seanmartinez84156 ай бұрын

    He's saving all this money, yet the clothes only get more outrageously expensive.

  • @Aluenvey
    @Aluenvey7 ай бұрын

    Not quite worker ownership of means of production, but the next best thing. Did you say Rick Candy? This guy sounds amazing.

  • @MLUE444
    @MLUE4447 ай бұрын

    Nice video...

  • @moog5260
    @moog52606 ай бұрын

    I object to the title somewhat. he avoided being tricked not the other way round

  • @leostabauer5930
    @leostabauer59306 ай бұрын

    Sadly only few few people can do this. A system change in some way is necessary

  • @Anthony-fk3vw
    @Anthony-fk3vw6 ай бұрын

    fyi.. missed opportunity not putting the link to you brand in the description... and i cannot find the "link in your bio" like you said in the video. i am actually interested in that jacket you have on in the video

  • @meezanlmt
    @meezanlmt6 ай бұрын

    One very important factor was Ricks relationship with the buyers.

  • @alphadream953
    @alphadream9537 ай бұрын

    did people like yohji and kawakubo do the same? what about PAF?

  • @karstenkroening

    @karstenkroening

    7 ай бұрын

    Yohji and Kawakubo are different because of how much of their audience is in Japan, and the Japanese market is sort of it’s own different complicated bubble. For Yohji the majority of his sales are in Japan, but Kawakubo has opened up many CDG stores in the west as well Dover Street Market. Kawakubo and Dover is another excellent business case, but a little bit more complicated and drawn out then Rick. PAF is still very early in their career and it’s too early to tell, but I hope they do well !

  • @alphadream953

    @alphadream953

    7 ай бұрын

    @@karstenkroening thanks for your reply, i di not think about the locale being important, I hope PAF does well too because I like their way of releasing, going outside of the fashion system

  • @mielski
    @mielski6 ай бұрын

    What’s the song in the background?

  • @luelly8878
    @luelly88786 ай бұрын

    gentle monster stores are also a sick retail experience pretty comparable to the rick owens stores

  • @austinorcutt9751
    @austinorcutt97516 ай бұрын

    Kitchen Lights background music?

  • @etcot8220
    @etcot82206 ай бұрын

    Its not super high end fashion but Wacko Maria store in Tokyo is absolutely crazy. Pretty similar toRicks one .

  • @DreBars
    @DreBars6 ай бұрын

    Liked at "This belongs in a Museum!!!!!"

  • @erohw
    @erohw6 ай бұрын

    Why isn’t there. A. Link in bio

  • @Theblessedlifewithlala
    @Theblessedlifewithlala6 ай бұрын

    Good for him 👏🏿

  • @TASconfidential
    @TASconfidential6 ай бұрын

    Did he trick the fashion industry? Or was he just smart and savvy and didn’t allow the industry to trick him?

  • @rotisseriechickenlover-jb4cc
    @rotisseriechickenlover-jb4cc7 ай бұрын

    good vid 👍👍👍

  • @cerealmuncher757
    @cerealmuncher7576 ай бұрын

    rick owens actually has his own production company called owenscorp which hes been using since 2016

  • @mikehunt5926
    @mikehunt59266 ай бұрын

    i thought he released a fake clothing drop to fulfill his record contract and then released the real one and got rich

  • @aridgordon

    @aridgordon

    6 ай бұрын

    hardest comment ever

  • @apothk9549
    @apothk95496 ай бұрын

    Wow the early footage of Owen he still looked human. Must have been before the Chrome and selling his soul.

  • @piercenigel4670
    @piercenigel46703 ай бұрын

    i was thinking the other day about the clothes people i respect wear. one japanese brand (won't name it) gives "oh ao you're the curator". you can always go with yoji or cdg, or sacai and junya if it's easier. the "i own a gallery" look is just north of france, mostly for women. rick is not on the list. (and he's defined not an underground find)

  • @lostgleammedia
    @lostgleammedia6 ай бұрын

    Where's the link to your clothes in the video description

  • @karstenkroening

    @karstenkroening

    6 ай бұрын

    Karstenkroening.com

  • @lostgleammedia

    @lostgleammedia

    6 ай бұрын

    @@karstenkroening thanks, you have something there. I like the bandana most

  • @MayorSom
    @MayorSom6 ай бұрын

    3:43 jawline sharper than my kitchen knife set

  • @Laaiaakkaa
    @Laaiaakkaa6 ай бұрын

    Kitchen lights?

  • @PeachPink-ns2rv
    @PeachPink-ns2rv6 ай бұрын

    “Link in bio” to ur website bruh I don’t have insta where is tha link

  • @karstenkroening

    @karstenkroening

    6 ай бұрын

    Karstenkroening.com

  • @holoceph3916
    @holoceph39166 ай бұрын

    Sounds to me like the secret ingredient to the fashion industry is brown nosing rich ppl that will fund your projects and gain you elite connections

  • @kevinsongxin2551
    @kevinsongxin25516 ай бұрын

    I love Rick but 800€ gimp hoodie is crazy, thankfully he has richer customers than me.

  • @gabrielmenoscal9911
    @gabrielmenoscal99117 ай бұрын

    W vid

  • @user-tv3kw4ug6w
    @user-tv3kw4ug6w6 ай бұрын

    The video starts here

  • @Philip_Klein
    @Philip_Klein6 ай бұрын

    Next video why rick quality free falls since 5 years despite having a own factory

  • @karstenkroening

    @karstenkroening

    6 ай бұрын

    I would love to know that myself tbh. It’s so hit or miss these days, but it might have something to do with the whole industry overall dropping in quality. less high quality textiles are being produced overall so maybe it just also effect him? Or it could be how I also know that they have had turnover in the last few years of whoever is in charge of materials and fabric sourcing. Either way it’s disappointing

  • @Lilmisscostumedrama
    @Lilmisscostumedrama6 ай бұрын

    Basically…he smart. And frugal and sustainable.

  • @moonmuzicck280
    @moonmuzicck2806 ай бұрын

    Do you think Rick Owens would be able to trick you into buying a microphone ?

  • @piercenigel4670
    @piercenigel46703 ай бұрын

    rick is for people who want to LOOK like they know fashion, look like they're intellectuals, look like they're dark, look like they are bold. people who want the attention. but, like all things california, there is a lot of façade. this community around him is very important for his success.

  • @TheSilentsama
    @TheSilentsama6 ай бұрын

    I think his wife also play some part in it

  • @sahuul
    @sahuul6 ай бұрын

    W earl sweatshirt, thought i was playing it in my background for a second 😭

  • @1Bridem
    @1Bridem6 ай бұрын

    my guys clothes looks like Rick Owens jr he trying to finesse the KZread viewers

  • @SHYBOI_otf
    @SHYBOI_otf26 күн бұрын

    I just see Devils everywhere

  • @juancuellar1561
    @juancuellar15616 ай бұрын

    great content: --------------- please get a better mic

  • @blackdahlia1103
    @blackdahlia11036 ай бұрын

    Maxfield denied Rick at first

  • @RickDiezel
    @RickDiezel6 ай бұрын

    Haha he makes it seem like fashion designers don’t get some form of residual income after growing and selling a brand, just adding to this your content is valid bro

  • @chuchulaputa3280
    @chuchulaputa32807 ай бұрын

    To give Rick Owens some credit, it seems he does know construction as he went to the little known low tier school LATTC that is infamous for having very hands on fashion academy. So I think he knows what to look for and thus it’s great to hear he’s developed such a long relationship with a single factory. A lot of designers are glorified “cake decorators” as Alaia said of Lagerfeld so I have to give him and his wife some credit in that they don’t run through fabricators because they don’t know construction and finishings. His wife is said to be the actual designer now because all he does is work out and all he wants to do is talk about “his fuxkin muscles”.per what a fine artist told me lol His long time customers must see the consistency in his workmanship and that is more valuable than trendy offerings if yur Gonna be a long time company. I’m from LA and work as a tailor for 15+ years and I’ve heard and seen a lot and yes it’s pretty much all smoke and mirrors but have to give people like Rick Owens an A for a consistently robust archive.

  • @veronicarivera3218
    @veronicarivera32187 ай бұрын

    Sustainable savage

  • @oprtrnien1370
    @oprtrnien13707 ай бұрын

    for a second there i tought u where gonna bad mouth our lord and saviour😁😁

  • @GodBlessTheATF
    @GodBlessTheATF6 ай бұрын

    Excellent video, one aspect you didn’t mention is that all of these clothes are worth as much as any other clothing. But he just overcharges. Not brilliant or revolutionary, he’s just fleecing rich idiots 😂

  • @scamculture

    @scamculture

    6 ай бұрын

    He’s a fashion channel lol this is the nature of all highbrow culture

  • @SDSOverfiend
    @SDSOverfiend6 ай бұрын

    His success was random.

  • @patricknoone2152
    @patricknoone21526 ай бұрын

    Negotiaaaaaaaaaaaation

  • @xanderpromeo
    @xanderpromeo6 ай бұрын

    Rick designs clothes for people who look like Dr. Seuss characters. Look up Rae Suzan Strauss the Lava Lady of Los Angeles and see for yourself. Fashion comes from the streets, dahlings.

  • @Dejanaification
    @Dejanaification6 ай бұрын

    ,,Moms,, understand and love him since Health Goth, don be ignorant if you talk abouth subject

  • @ftrsaliyf-zd4wk
    @ftrsaliyf-zd4wk6 ай бұрын

    Why are you styled like My generation and Culture ?

  • @tba-2147
    @tba-21477 ай бұрын

    saying Lang, Margiela or McQueen HAD to sell, sounds kinda wrong to me.

  • @Kondi_U

    @Kondi_U

    7 ай бұрын

    why?

  • @samjones527

    @samjones527

    7 ай бұрын

    That's fashion my boy capitalism at it's finest Rick is a rare breed

  • @tba-2147

    @tba-2147

    7 ай бұрын

    @@Kondi_U well, as far as i know "Lang" sold to dabble in other artforms. Margiela sold to, i dont know, disappear from the face of earth and the limelight he never was interessted in Lee sold mostly to get back at Bernard and out of his LVMH contract, while he also seemed to search for an exit strategy out of the fashion world.

  • @ran7012

    @ran7012

    7 ай бұрын

    True but margiela still the hardest out of all of them

  • @1nstaglancer981
    @1nstaglancer9816 ай бұрын

    no trick, just his own business model 🤔

  • @mdc3227
    @mdc32275 ай бұрын

    I think Rick Owens is a genius, but I also think his clothes are overpriced tat. He charges more for a standard cotton t-shirt than Merz b do for a 100% loop wheel. His pants are more expensive than SEH Kelly stuff, which is literally woven by hand, by a 5th generation weaver sitting beside a Scottish loch working by candle light. .

  • @SkywalkerPaul
    @SkywalkerPaul6 ай бұрын

    Trick Owens 😎🦾

  • @PrometheusExselsiorHanzo
    @PrometheusExselsiorHanzo6 ай бұрын

    This Karsten Kroening dude thinks he's Ye 😂😂😂

  • @pheebsbee1280
    @pheebsbee12806 ай бұрын

    Cryptkeeper making clothes for the stupid rich people brigade 😅

  • @stopthem1301
    @stopthem13016 ай бұрын

    rick owens and his wife are total weirdos who had a weird bar called le deux in los angeles..uh hum........

  • @figgettit
    @figgettit6 ай бұрын

    fix your sound bub

  • @mildred1217
    @mildred12176 ай бұрын

    aint gonna make it big with this kind of kindergarten title.

  • @ktiitfa2491
    @ktiitfa24913 ай бұрын

    You don't understand his Culture and you don't understand ourr culture you play dress up with

  • @Fapnyr
    @Fapnyr6 ай бұрын

    Smart man, not just a designer but also a merchant

  • @TALKTRUTHJAMAICA
    @TALKTRUTHJAMAICA6 ай бұрын

    Rick Owen’s operates like a private label for himself.

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