OMG! I thought the issue with my tube-to-collet block breakage was my fault. Turns out it was the technique. 🤦‍♀️ I am SO glad you made this video. Thank you, Chris!!

@bluefernlove

Жыл бұрын

But it does work, you just have to anneal it, otherwise of course it will break because you're literally hardening it with each bang.

I’ve just bought a collect block after seeing another channel tutorial. Thank goodness I’ve seen this before trying it out. Thank you so much for making your videos and sharing.

Thank you for showing the right way ,Really this is the first thing we learned at jewellery school . anyone who made a video showing the first way is not much use. That is why taking proper lessons for the basics is so important, Please go to classes .

I just watched a video where the instructor explained how NOT to split your bezel. First hammered the bezel a couple times with the top side into the hole to thicken and curve the top edge in just a bit. Then he turned it over and placed the bottom in the hole. Once finished creating the shape, he put it into the hole closest to the finished size and finished as you did.

@DiamondMounter

9 ай бұрын

Cool. Id like to ask him to do one using his technique finishing up 6.2mm at the top, tapering down to 4.1mm at the bottom 5mm tall. Metal thickness after papering 1mm. Got one attempt.

Nice! I was learning that trick from an old jeweller who was not even using the collet punches, he was doing anyshape at high jewellery standard only with pliers, saw, and files

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

Yes! Its a good skillful way to work. A little cheat is to work with slightly thick metal then you can file it up to the perfect shape

Thanks! Great information and thoughtfully prepared videos.

Thanks! Learning to make more complex jewellery this was super helpful in using collets!

Thank you so much.🙂🙂🙂🙂.Helps a lot……

Push the straight sided tube (like in the start of your video) fully into the setting plate by putting a steel block over it before hammering. That way you don't damage the setting plate. Obviously, you start with a tube a bit larger than needed. Work down the hole sizes. This gives you well shaped sides. If done properly, you might not even need the punch. There is no need for curving.

I appreciate your being willing to share so much. I’m new to metals

Thankyou for sharing this video, very good info

Thanks Chris!

nice video. I enjoyed it!

Thanks for sharing

Great video! Thank you!! 🙏

Nice! Thank you!

at last someone who gets it¬i too as an artist knew you can not make a cone shape perfect out of a tube, thankyou for telling truth

Thanks for sharing. Real!y enjoy your vixeos

This I needed to know.

Thanks for the tips. I've only ever tried the wrong way before.

I’ve been needing this info

Yes - how it is! I like the way you curve your straight strip here - I would normally mark the curve to size and then cut from a larger piece of sheet; probs easier an outcome when using very thin sheet, but also more wasteful. Great to example of how we can adapt our own tools to better achieve our objectives.....but I'd never thought of using pliers for this curving task - I'll be making up your fab strip benders :))

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah you gotta have some! Its a bit of a technique to learn and takes some strength but its an essential thing to learn.

Curving the strip first was a game changer

Thank you Much!

Jewelry Training Solutions also has a great video that explains this process in detail.

@goolyweis

Жыл бұрын

Right! A very good videon indeed!

You can use your ring sizer (minus the spinning die carousel) as a press when needed. Works better than a hammer.

@DiamondMounter

10 ай бұрын

Thanks yes I do that sometimes. I put my drawplate across the holes then squash things down

Appreciate this. Great information. Off topic. What brand is your jewellery hammer?

Do you have a fix for an uneven angle on a collet? Great video!

Ty ❤

Awesome

Hear, hear! I've been taught to do it this way. We're calling it two pence piece so it fits on two pence snuggly.

I use a small hammer and bang on one side gently until you get an ark it stretches' the metal . I was taught by my grandad and father as they both were jewelers. Thank you 1 I will try this way too.

Thanks for the great video. I'm wondering what gauge the flat wire is that you're using when making your collets. Thanks. Joanne

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

Not too sure it was probably about 1mm

@gilliancowan3517

2 жыл бұрын

Do you ever make collects of this style using a disc then domed then move to collet block. I've a platinum setting to make and I'd rather it didn't have a solder join?

cool, thanks....

Any tips on using a Square Bezel using a square punch Block liked these?

Hi Chris, Great video! Please can you show us how to make a Rex collet. Taaa

how's it man great video I've found the best way it to use a valve punch and hammer it down into the block until it's flush with the top of the block then anneal pop back in and then use the tapered punch to shape it works like a dream

@mitchmangles

3 жыл бұрын

Yes! I sometimes put a block of wood or a bench block on the top of the tube to help it go into the block evenly. And step the way down through the different sizes before you put the punch in to finish it off. Anneal anneal anneal.

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

Yes thats the ideal way!

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

@@mitchmangles I always advise annealing all the time. Its well worth the time spent to keep the metal soft!

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

@@mitchmangles I always advise annealing all the time. Its well worth the time spent to keep the metal soft!

@scottpauljewelry516

2 жыл бұрын

@@DiamondMounter quick question! Would i be able to make a collet without soldering first? Like make a normal round tube with a tight joint (not soldered yet). hammer it into shape, then solder it? Or does it need to be solder before hand.

What about using pre made tubing without solder join. What's the situation there ? Can you do. Demo please? Many thanks

Could you make a collet from a flat disk though?

I just ordered a cushion shaped collet block. Can somebody give me any pointers so I don’t split it ?!! I’ve been told that the first method shown will work if you fuse the metal instead of soldering it. Any suggestions help !

Крис, спасибо тебе за то, что ты есть..) ты очень помогаешь!) ты сила!)

Hey Chris! I was wondering if you could cut a piece of sheet the diameter of the collet you want to make with a hole in the middle and then punch it? It wouldn't have the solder joint to break then, sort of like how people make "Coin Rings".

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

I never thought of that. I might try it and see if it can work!

@johnhowton6339

3 жыл бұрын

this is a very good way , I use this all the time using a disc cuter the smaller one for center hole

@haidafella8651

3 жыл бұрын

Only way I ever bother... the wide mouth will thicken up a bit as it compresses, something to bare in mind if it might matter

@angeliyara8299

2 жыл бұрын

I learned that way, drawing two semi circules with the compas and cutting the shape in the metal sheet. I think it might be a little quicker. Xx

@CONEHEADDK

Жыл бұрын

My first thought was to first make a half spear, and then into the collet punch thingy of slightly thicker metal than the edge I'd want. But I've got close to zero experience, more or less only have done casting.

No problem to use a ready tube with cracked wall. It's easier to fill and polish the fraction after hitted than doing a flat circle piece forehand

How about starting with a washer shape made by using hole punches to make the washer

Hey where do you get your paper ‘wizzer’ from? I got a new foredom that came with a quick release hand piece and can’t find paper barrels to fit anywhere. My old ones were 3mm, but yours look like the 2.3mm I’m looking for? Thanks in advance

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

I think these ones were bought from Cooksons in London. I used to make my own so I might do a video to show how to make them soon

@emilyrickett2527

3 жыл бұрын

@@DiamondMounter ah maybe they don’t do them any more then, or I’m sure I would have seen them online at Cooksons. That would be brill though Thankyou. I’ve only just discovered your channel and I think it’s brilliant!

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

@@emilyrickett2527 Oh no! Ok I will make a video for you. Thanks for finding the channel. There are 4 new videos coming out over the next 2 weeks stay tuned!

@ashleylovie1

3 жыл бұрын

@@emilyrickett2527 I buy mine from HS Walsh, if you search emery rolls they come up :)

@emilyrickett2527

3 жыл бұрын

@@ashleylovie1 thanks so much! Il take a look! Thanks!

You always can just cut it to be closer to the conical shape instead of making a normal tube. Just measure the height and top and bottom circumference of the cone that way. The first incorrect method it is quite obvious that the expansion would split the joint.

@Aelawen

Жыл бұрын

Jewelry Training Solutions has a great video on this subject.

I'm wondering if the degree of the angle of the collet makes a difference in the straight tube? The one you used seemed more than 17 degree. Not doubting just wondering.

@DiamondMounter

3 жыл бұрын

My collet punch is a very steep angled one yes but I think even with a 17 degree one its unlikely to work just banging a straight tube cone shape

@HoutmeyersP

9 ай бұрын

I have seen this done using a 17° collet block......28° will not work since you are stretching way more. In you vid you can see the first few taps did not split the collet. @@DiamondMounter

Thank you. Now I that is a wrong way to make a tube into a cone/collet. And can try doing it a better way. like take a tube that's not too long and/or narrow. I would use hard solder or even very hard. I would anneal the piace. I would hammer the tube flush with the surface. I would maybe anneal the piace again. First then I would use the punch - and

I do think you are missing an important point here. I understand why, because you are a fine metals jeweller, but I think the reasoning is key. I’ve found that the “just bash it into a collet block” approach *definitely works for sterling silver*, as long as you anneal three times. Hear me out…One of the hidden reasons why the “rainbow” approach is less prone to split, is that soldering after rainbow automatically anneals the strain you’ve put in while rainbowing, as well as the (weaker) solder joint is not strained as much. But if you anneal straight after it flares in the collet block, tap to half-done, anneal again, tap to not-quite-done, anneal again, and then finish tapping, honestly this really does work without tearing. Two anneals can work, but it’s risky. Also, use a 17degree collet block not 28degree. But, *specifically for sterling silver*, you don’t absolutely need to rainbow if you anneal enough. And it’s a lot faster, particularly if you haven’t got a lifetimes skill at rainbowing, which actually means it’s the right approach for sterling silver [appreciate that’s controversial]. But here’s the kicker: that won’t work for some of the various gold carats. If you try it with 9ct yellow, or probably any carat white, it will indeed split, and you do absolutely have to rainbow. And that’s why professional jewellers are taught to rainbow. And once you’ve got that skill down pat….why wouldn’t you do it on silver too, just because you can…… Now, back to sterling silver. Again, this is about the “fine jewellery” perspective vs small production perspective. Three anneals sounds like it’s going to be time-consuming, but it’s not, because: the fine jeweller is making *one* custom collet for *one* ring. But the economics and mode of working for sterling silver are different. Making one silver collet is just *never going to be economic*. Typically, you are in batch-mode, making 10-20 units. I can make 20 collets in maybe 15 minutes this way (including soldering and cleanup) and I just couldn’t do that if I had to rainbow them individually. “Ah, but what if you don’t need 20 collets and they’re all different sizes”. It’s sterling silver. Keep them for another time, and if you haven’t used them in 2 years, then scrap them. The cost of the metal is pennies, compared to your labour. This is totally different to working in gold where you can’t afford to make a batch that you’ll never use. Lastly, the point about collet block angle “a professional jeweller should be able to make 28degree collets”. Yes, in gold, if you are being paid £80/hr for a commission. But in sterling silver, and for any item under £200 retail *you are not being paid to construct arbitrary difficult objects*. Nobody is paying £10 extra for a wider angle collet.

It is possible, you need to upset the tube straight down into the block first before using the punch. then you have enough material on the top edge. then it DOES work! i do think your way is better

So frustrating I have tried it doesn't work. You right

Где такую приобрести?

You can that way. There’s a work around to avoid splitting

The main reason why this sometimes does not work is the degrees of the collet block you are using....i can see yours is 28°.....other blocks available are only 17°....the lesser the angle the less chance the collet will split.

Excellent demonstration.But who could show me the system of creating a closed heart-shaped bezel?Astuccishop!!!

Only time I ever make heads is if I'm melting other people's gold Down or I have a strange dimension of stone to work with. Most times Other than that it is more cost effective to get one cast. Or cast one ourselves if we have the pattern. That said it is a good skill to learn

you gotta press (or hammer) it down a couple of holes till it's flush with the block surface before using the punch, 99% of the time mine don't split...

If you'd polish the block you'd eliminate the need to sand the collet after.

🐝💤💫❤💥👍

I love your videos Chris but there are many times when you are showing a difficult part of the process and even though I think you are honestly trying to show how the process is actually done correctly there are many of the exact same cuts in your free videos as you are describing here. You also seem like a man in muddy waters. You left it all to pursue the only. But now the only needs you to be functional. Your videos are the most informative there are on KZread with a few others that I would never even consider ranking because they all share something that would otherwise be unknown. The problem is that making jewelry is an expensive hobby and it takes a lot of money to get started. I like your videos because you speak to the people who have already invested in the process and you try to keep it as real as possible while still making enough money to support yourself. The problem is that most people watching these videos are people who would love to create beautiful pieces of jewelry but are currently having difficulty paying their bills. The current paradigm would suggest you need to create another level that pays you what you are actually worth but when you become a teacher payment is far and waits long. The people making enough money to pay for your patreon are almost always going to be the rich people with a new hobby they picked up for this month or next. The true value of your talent is in teaching those who have the capability to create in a similar way that you do but have no wealth or even enough to pay for their rent or food. Those people will learn from you and they will be grateful but they will have nothing to offer until what you have taught them bears fruit. Even when all may have the ability, some will make it and most will not. Those who didn’t make it likely had life interrupted by the need to pay bills so they took a job at a factory or a fast food joint just to make lesss money than they need to survive. Again love your videos. Very much appreciate you being real. But I’ve also noticed some cuts in your videos where you have to cut time in order to make your video tangible and profitable. Maybe those other people are doing something similar but they are abusing it. Either way I can’t afford to support you financially but your free videos are as close to real as it gets and I appreciate that.

They poo poo it because they don’t want the regular guy or gal to get the knowledge. I ran into this when I was trying to learn hand engraving.

If you put a round, dime like, piece of metal in one of the holes in your block and beat it down with your punch it’ll make the collet or cone shape you’re trying to make. You over thought it and did a bunch of unnecessary work bending and soldering a rectangular piece of metal into a tube for no reason. Just saying

@DiamondMounter

Жыл бұрын

Ok using your technique make me a collet that measures 6.45mm diameter at the top tapering down to 3.95mm at the bottom. Finished 3.7mm high with 0.8mm thickness. You've got 1 attempt.

du laberst zu viel.

@mandysmetaphysical777