How not to get injured - Antagonistic training for climbers

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Bouldering starts at 05:25
Music and Sound Effects: share.epidemicsound.com/vSnfn​
Shot and edited by Magnus Midtbø
Sponsors:
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Content
00:00 Training
05:25 Bouldering

Пікірлер: 433

  • @MiguelClimbs
    @MiguelClimbs2 жыл бұрын

    Good one Magnus! I know the training content doesn't get as many views, but it's really helpful to all climbers!

  • @mrthirty1139
    @mrthirty11392 жыл бұрын

    The last one is external shoulder rotation. It targets two of the rotator cuff muscles, the infraspinatus and teres minor.

  • @Go3nthar

    @Go3nthar

    2 жыл бұрын

    I think if people don't have weights at home but for example an elastic band they can attach it to a door handle and easily do the same exercise :)

  • @kennysvensson9337

    @kennysvensson9337

    2 жыл бұрын

    And please tale it real easy with the weights with this one. Talking like 1-2 kilos. Those muscles are tiny and very easy to injure.

  • @theAFKeyboard

    @theAFKeyboard

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@Go3nthar This one is called "no money". You grab a band with both hands, keeping elbows for the whole time close to the side of the chest and stretch the band to reach 45 to 60 degree angle with each forearm.

  • @KnicklichtGangster

    @KnicklichtGangster

    2 жыл бұрын

    This exercise in particular helped me a ton while recovering from a dislocated shoulder. After a couple of months it felt very stable again due to this exercise (Of course i had to do other exercises as well)

  • @Asdfghjkl-ls1or

    @Asdfghjkl-ls1or

    2 жыл бұрын

    Lmao I use to use the same profile picture, now I just have it as my wallpaper. Beautiful dolomites

  • @SendStory
    @SendStory2 жыл бұрын

    Antagonist exercises are also great for coming back from injuries. I've had tendon and inflammatory issues that have always seemed to get better when I do opposition training and supply my body with the appropriate nutrition. They are also great for looking like magnus, haha.

  • @BoulderingHighlights
    @BoulderingHighlights2 жыл бұрын

    4:10 External rotators of your shoulder i.e. Rotator Cuff muscles which include Teres Minor, Teres Major, Subscapularis. These muscles are more towards Agonistic muscles in climbing and are the main supporting muscles for keeping your shoulder healthy especially during overhangs and cutting lose

  • @Mylada

    @Mylada

    2 жыл бұрын

    Subscapularis and teros major are internal rotators of the shoulder.

  • @leoingson

    @leoingson

    2 жыл бұрын

    .. and external rotation is antagonistic to normal climbing pull motions.

  • @AngrySkipperGC

    @AngrySkipperGC

    2 жыл бұрын

    Being a bit pedantic here, but you are incorrect on what the rotator cuff muscles are. There are 4 muscles that make up the rotator cuff - including: subscap, infraspinatus, supraspinatus and teres minor. teres major is not part of the rotator cuff muscle group.

  • @dave_h_8742

    @dave_h_8742

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@AngrySkipperGC Always open to learning.

  • @fetskidor

    @fetskidor

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@leoingson Not necessarily. You pull yout body upwards and forward with the humeral head as the pivotal point, that should indicate that you are right. But, at the same time you apply a contralateral rotation in the torso in most climbing motions, that allows you to project your body further upwards/forwards relative to your scapula as you contract supraspinatus, infraspinatus and teres minor, together with the scapular stabilizing muscles. Therefore, external rotation cuff muscles are antagonists in most shoulder pulling motions.

  • @mithandsmills3693
    @mithandsmills36932 жыл бұрын

    FYI - The 'muscle in the shoudler' he never uses is infraspinatus, which performs external rotation of the shoulder and helps stabilise the top of the arm bone in it's socket! Source: practicing doctor, UK Magnus - amazing content as always

  • @chriscroteau4793
    @chriscroteau47932 жыл бұрын

    With all the crazy things you do, never getting hurt is DEFINITELY something to brag about! Can’t wait to see the next episodes!

  • @LunicussOfficial

    @LunicussOfficial

    2 жыл бұрын

    It's because he's super super strong and always climbs stuff that he has excess strength for - if Magnus can't do a climb, it's probably because of technique, if that makes sense. According to Dave Macleod (who bases this off the research), the number one way to avoid injury climbing is simply being stronger.

  • @giacomocasanova2893

    @giacomocasanova2893

    Жыл бұрын

    @@LunicussOfficial I would disagree on this. the main climbing related injuries are all tendon related. being stronger prevents muscle injuries but it also puts a lot more stress on your tendons as you can‘t train those. it‘s a problem for bodybuilders as well and I know for a fact that Magnus hast tendinitis. He mentioned it in a video with the ninja warrior guy.

  • @LunicussOfficial

    @LunicussOfficial

    Жыл бұрын

    @@giacomocasanova2893 Huh? You can absolutely train your tendons. Eccentric exercises, for example, will strengthen your tendons. They just get stronger or weaker more slowly than muscles. Magnus has never needed to take time off due to an injury, which is an extreme rarity for a climber with decades of experience.

  • @giacomocasanova2893

    @giacomocasanova2893

    Жыл бұрын

    @@LunicussOfficial they are still the limiting factor and not the strength of the muscles as you falsely stated in your previous comment.

  • @LunicussOfficial

    @LunicussOfficial

    Жыл бұрын

    ​@@giacomocasanova2893 I think that's a misunderstanding on your part. Tendon strength is a subset of strength. When you get stronger, both your tendons and muscles are getting stronger.

  • @reacher1077
    @reacher10772 жыл бұрын

    While you are in switzerland maybe you could collab with Soyfa Yokoyama, she also has a youtube channel and is on the swiss national climbing team, would be really great to see you climb with a really strong female climber!

  • @sophies5

    @sophies5

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yeah, I would love to see this

  • @Strummify

    @Strummify

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yes pls

  • @evanpowers1795

    @evanpowers1795

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yes

  • @InterwovenElements
    @InterwovenElements2 жыл бұрын

    Love this stuff. No over explaining, not pretending to know anything you don't know, just sharing the routine and what's working for you. Keep up the great work as always Magnus!

  • @pwnz0orz
    @pwnz0orz2 жыл бұрын

    I'm very new to climbing, coming in from a regular gym training/bodybuilding background and I don't want to stop going to the gym since it's something I love to do. It's great to see someone talk about how I can combine those two sports, not only to complement each other but also to prevent injury! I've been binge watching your vids and it is really helping me progress fast.

  • @owievisie

    @owievisie

    2 жыл бұрын

    I have the same background and I'm going to give you a big tip, try to focus ALOT on technique instead of power and strength Because we are already strong we tend to use poor technique and just bang out grades really fast This will cause injuries once you start to hold crimps because our fingers are weak and we will rely on bicep and back power to componsate Really focus on technique, the 2 best advices that I got was keep your arms straight and ass low, and try to fuck the wall, aka keep your ass against the wall as much as posible

  • @tommeyer3871
    @tommeyer38712 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Magnus for the training tips. Also, great ideas for the videos coming up, definitely looking forward to those - especially learning more about ice climbing

  • @vancestanfield
    @vancestanfield2 жыл бұрын

    Really appreciate all this amazing content you make for your fans! Always shocked me that you even edited the footage as well. Great video!

  • @Mirabell97
    @Mirabell972 жыл бұрын

    I'M SO HYPED for the women's gymnastics video!

  • @philipegoulet448
    @philipegoulet4482 жыл бұрын

    The production quality on this one is outstanding! Good job magnus!

  • @griffinlarson5878
    @griffinlarson58782 жыл бұрын

    Love your vids so much Magnus! I have been watching your channel for a WHILE like I think I was here when you were at 100k. Your channel really pushed me to climb.

  • @mentallyoffline7005
    @mentallyoffline70052 жыл бұрын

    The lighting, angles, and production on this video are sooo good, Great Work!

  • @riqui7835
    @riqui78352 жыл бұрын

    I love all your videos magnus, but the educational ones i always watch multiple times, as someone who started climbing as an adult i need all the training and injury prevention i can get!

  • @davidsayre-dolan9782
    @davidsayre-dolan97822 жыл бұрын

    Love the new feel of the content - it seems relaxed, relatable, and like you’re having fun!

  • @ThisisIzzat
    @ThisisIzzat2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Magnus for always staying humble and sharing these content! And for keeping me motivated and excited always!

  • @kroot0x
    @kroot0x2 жыл бұрын

    looking forward to those future idea's for content, also very excited to see Pete again. WIDE BOYZ

  • @thebazm606
    @thebazm6062 жыл бұрын

    I always get really excited to go climbing, when I see your videos. Keep it up ! Great content

  • @ryanzimmermusic
    @ryanzimmermusic2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Magnus for making this video. Such an important topic for climbers to be aware of in their training!

  • @Gruuhk
    @Gruuhk2 жыл бұрын

    Hey Magnus ! it's nice to hear that you are coming to switzerland ! You should definitely try to meet one of our famous climber Fred Nicole and maybe try some hard stuff on our outdoor crags !

  • @Lexcommentyoutube
    @Lexcommentyoutube2 жыл бұрын

    Very excited for the ice climbing video! That sounds like it'll be awesome

  • @alixvolte
    @alixvolte2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you for the teasing for the videos to come! Looking forward to these ^^

  • @talilkr5238
    @talilkr52382 жыл бұрын

    Love this to keep injury free, this is what a lot of fitness tubers miss out on. Keep it up.

  • @Moache
    @Moache2 жыл бұрын

    That wipe at 5:57 is the best camera transition Magnus has done so far.

  • @TheMegaMrMe
    @TheMegaMrMe2 жыл бұрын

    "part of the reason" is one thing, but you should also note what other factors come into play. Genetics is a big one when it comes to injury avoidance. There are people out there that train and warm up but still get injured. What works for one person doesn't necessarily yield the results you want for another. It's healthy to train other movements, so good job on sharing this!

  • @ThatLaggyNoob
    @ThatLaggyNoob2 жыл бұрын

    Magnus skipping holds on those two super hard boulder problems is just...wow!

  • @FannysLoA
    @FannysLoA2 жыл бұрын

    I love educational videos like this ❤️ Keep'em coming. Especially for beginners who have no idea what they're doing

  • @el3xg373
    @el3xg3732 жыл бұрын

    This is super interesting. I've progressed to a level now (7a+ish) where posture has become a problem. I'm also a tall guy. Actually researched the best antagonist training for climbing a week ago, and this video is just absolutely perfect. Thank you so much :)

  • @snefansson
    @snefansson2 жыл бұрын

    I've currently started doing a lot of these exercises because I started getting the climber posture. Great that you're getting the word out there. I was getting to the point that my antagonist muscles was so weak in comparison that I was getting injuries everywhere

  • @patrickbourne3819
    @patrickbourne38192 жыл бұрын

    Really great video! Your effort has really paid off, it looks great with the lighting and how you set the shot up. Also really loved the format of the video. Including some climbing in there as well was really nice!

  • @iluecha
    @iluecha2 жыл бұрын

    That is the kind of video I am following your channel for! Love the second part 🤘🏻

  • @derWein
    @derWein2 жыл бұрын

    We'll be waiting for you Magnus! 🇨🇭🧀🍫🌄

  • @fhcwcsy
    @fhcwcsy2 жыл бұрын

    Really looking forward to the ice climbing video, and video with Pete!

  • @williambeldamlkke8054
    @williambeldamlkke80542 жыл бұрын

    The camera angles and lighting in this video is looking absolutely amazing

  • @Eduardado
    @Eduardado2 жыл бұрын

    Production quality improved. Awesome. Very helpful also. Thanks a lot Magnus

  • @michaelbeard7082
    @michaelbeard70822 жыл бұрын

    Amazing videos as always and love the improved quality of camera, transitions, lighting etc.!!! Keep them coming

  • @LittleCloni
    @LittleCloni2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for the training tips Magnus! I recently started climbing more seriously and I will try to incorporate those exercises into my routine. Also I wanted to say that I love watching your content, you just are a really likeable person I could see myself having a drink and a nice conversation with. OT: I just ordered two pairs of your climbing pants and DUDE are you guys quick! They already shipped and will arrive tomorrow in Switzerland.. amazing! Cheers and see you in the next vid :)

  • @taylor5982
    @taylor59822 жыл бұрын

    Excellent video, I nerd out watching your editing and cinematography skills!

  • @matteos.3438
    @matteos.34382 жыл бұрын

    external rotations and other shoulder work is gold!

  • @aasmundnrsett8751
    @aasmundnrsett87512 жыл бұрын

    So excited to see videos with Pete again!

  • @InspeCtaArChiE
    @InspeCtaArChiE2 жыл бұрын

    Looking forward to the ice climbing video, that will be super cool!

  • @BFlanagan97
    @BFlanagan972 жыл бұрын

    Upcoming content sounds great, look forward to the ice climbing!

  • @bigchickenking9576
    @bigchickenking95762 жыл бұрын

    Plans sound good, so stoked for what's coming Magnus!! :)

  • @GoogleAccount-tg9lp
    @GoogleAccount-tg9lp2 жыл бұрын

    Love the bouldering, but very excited to hear what you have coming up!

  • @dougthebuilder1
    @dougthebuilder12 жыл бұрын

    can't wait for the videos with Pete again! you two bounce off each other really well.

  • @gustavdyrssen8729
    @gustavdyrssen87292 жыл бұрын

    Excellent video Magnus!!!!

  • @Rustic.illustration
    @Rustic.illustration2 жыл бұрын

    Absolutely loved the way this was filmed mate

  • @javierromerogarcia4912
    @javierromerogarcia49122 жыл бұрын

    Nice video Magnus! Thankssss for all you did

  • @spiercevaughn
    @spiercevaughn2 жыл бұрын

    Love the video. Some good exercises I’ll try. Sounds like the ice climbing video will be awesome!

  • @austinjohnson8932
    @austinjohnson89322 жыл бұрын

    I’m from the future, great video Magnus 👍🏻

  • @josephdelassus89
    @josephdelassus892 жыл бұрын

    multi-cam is insane! Your prod has glow-up once again! Amazing

  • @sikerow3180
    @sikerow31802 жыл бұрын

    Cant wait for the ice climbing video and gymnastics also sounds quite interesting

  • @foodmanhuffy3090
    @foodmanhuffy30902 жыл бұрын

    I’m looking forward to the ice climbing video so much! It looks so cool!

  • @hawthornewipe
    @hawthornewipe2 жыл бұрын

    Magnus - the dumbell when you're laying on the floor is for rotator cuffs. Really useful - you can also do it standing up with a resistance band. Really cool you showed a different way!

  • @maxw2132
    @maxw21322 жыл бұрын

    Haircut is looking fresh magnus!! Great video as always!

  • @joshworley4228
    @joshworley42282 жыл бұрын

    Bring on more collabs with Pete! Your videos together are always great. Thanks for posting a little bit of training stuff as well :)

  • @joshwalker3003
    @joshwalker30032 жыл бұрын

    I’ve recently dislocated my knee climbing, so your videos are giving me my fix. Hopefully it won’t be long until I’m back fit and well, maybe more antagonistic training is needed!

  • @nikonever94
    @nikonever942 жыл бұрын

    I'm psyched to see you ice climb!

  • @calebmartinez9350
    @calebmartinez93502 жыл бұрын

    Love these types of videos!

  • @joeppie1999
    @joeppie19992 жыл бұрын

    great idea to show this!

  • @grantnorman1854
    @grantnorman18542 жыл бұрын

    Hyped for another training video!!! I'd pay to see a full powerlifting video!

  • @bb1039
    @bb10392 жыл бұрын

    TRS the ready state is a good source for rehab and strength; Strong first and Pavel Tsatsouline has some good knowledge and the good man Buckberger has great ideas and exercise for the rotator cheers

  • @bandols
    @bandols2 жыл бұрын

    Ice climbing sounds awesome and brutal. Excited to see those videos.

  • @theuglypugling6770
    @theuglypugling67702 жыл бұрын

    Great lighting in this video magnus!!

  • @dardhadard837
    @dardhadard8372 жыл бұрын

    Within the first 33 secs I subscribed! I've been plagued with inaction and fear of working out: the knowledge that I might develop permanent limitations or imbalances due to armwrestling and climbing. This video I hope will help me start being consistent!

  • @andersonboy620
    @andersonboy6202 жыл бұрын

    Thats such an important video, thanks Magnus!

  • @Natural_Encounters
    @Natural_Encounters2 жыл бұрын

    Awesome video, this is super beneficial content! Thank you for making this.

  • @sirsanderson8861
    @sirsanderson88612 жыл бұрын

    Looking forward to you being in Switzerland, we have awesome winter climbing areas as well if you wanna feel some rock ;)

  • @TheExecunator
    @TheExecunator2 жыл бұрын

    thank u so much, ive been looking for a video like this!

  • @csommer4492
    @csommer44922 жыл бұрын

    So psyched for the ice climbing videos!!

  • @Solemn_Kaizoku
    @Solemn_Kaizoku8 ай бұрын

    Thanks for sharing. This is super useful info for someone looking to safely get into climbing.

  • @julianmuller7316
    @julianmuller73162 жыл бұрын

    Great quality of the video 🤙🏼really enjoyed

  • @malcolmmorrow4157
    @malcolmmorrow41572 жыл бұрын

    Magnus will push the sport of competition mixed climbing! Very similar to how world tour cyclists participate in American gravel events and often dominate

  • @sergiarts
    @sergiarts Жыл бұрын

    Very important advice for people who use wrist rollers: Don't stop when you've moved the weights to the top, roll them down as well and try not to lose good form. It's an incredible exercise if done well.

  • @AP-gg7ep
    @AP-gg7ep2 жыл бұрын

    Amazing information! More of this!!

  • @orioltelleria8509
    @orioltelleria85092 жыл бұрын

    For the second exercise (the seated shoulder press) you're focusing the first and second heads of the deltoids, this heads both share the role of raising the arm, this mouvement goes from a range from 0 (elbow close to the body) to 180 (full arm extension above your head). So for making the excercise as much perfect as it can be done (cause you have a lot of intervention from the trapezoids and romboids especially in the final stage of the mouvement) you should go with the dumbell from a position where the elbow it's close to your trunk and from there push to the position where the dumbell its above the shoulder.

  • @Joulhayan

    @Joulhayan

    2 жыл бұрын

    ^ I was just going to say something like but not as elegant

  • @minihjalte

    @minihjalte

    2 жыл бұрын

    So would you rotate the weight on the way up?

  • @orioltelleria8509

    @orioltelleria8509

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@minihjalte that wouldn't change anything cause moving thé weight in the final position its just a pronation or supination of the forearm which none of them are tackled with this exercise (because we want to work thé elbow extension nor thé supination/pronation of the forearm). Sorrry bout thé delay to reply but I didnt saw your coment.

  • @Sigrt
    @Sigrt2 жыл бұрын

    Looking forwards to the ice climbing video

  • @Reeenald
    @Reeenald2 жыл бұрын

    Upcoming videos sound really top !!

  • @sylviaclimbing7217
    @sylviaclimbing72172 жыл бұрын

    Oh can’t wait for another Pete and Magnus combo!!!!! Exciting!!!! Hope to see some cracks! Maybe one of the parkour crack stuff the wide boyz have been doing

  • @tommorris3849
    @tommorris38492 жыл бұрын

    I love videos like this!! Keep ‘em coming:)

  • @klackodonk
    @klackodonk2 жыл бұрын

    Much appreciated. As a newbie that just got injured I don’t want to be off the wall for so long again!

  • @FluksWorkouts
    @FluksWorkouts2 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for this awesome video!

  • @beabez1
    @beabez12 жыл бұрын

    How is no one talking about the lighting???

  • @angelofrevengeable
    @angelofrevengeable2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you for the video .. vey helpful . Hope to see more content like that often

  • @pierrem1012
    @pierrem10122 жыл бұрын

    Another Great video, thanks. Iceclimbing is so much fun, not at all like regular climbing but for shure you are in for a treat. Wish for more outside bouldering, maybe a trip to Fontaine bleau?

  • @sascha6auer331
    @sascha6auer3312 жыл бұрын

    Finally, Magnus' secrets of getting not injured! Great!

  • @sigmal47
    @sigmal472 жыл бұрын

    Love your content!

  • @henning_jasper
    @henning_jasper2 жыл бұрын

    so psyched for the ice climbing!

  • @SnowmansApartment
    @SnowmansApartment2 жыл бұрын

    a good idea is also to train antagonist muscles like the chest when warming up. Not doing much, but doing a little bit every training session might not give you bigger muscles but keep you healthy..(just a guess)

  • @zacharylaschober

    @zacharylaschober

    2 жыл бұрын

    More effective to do infrequently about once a week but at a reasonable intensity, otherwise there isn’t enough breakdown and repair stimulus.

  • @UkSapyy

    @UkSapyy

    2 жыл бұрын

    ​@@zacharylaschober You could do this every other day with sport specific training and not get injured. Providing you take eating and recovery seriously. It's all about goals, you can train heavy and get big or train sport specific and get good at a sport. I think Ross Edgley book Blueprint is the prefect breakdown on training cycles.

  • @miguelgazquez5717

    @miguelgazquez5717

    2 жыл бұрын

    I've read that chest is not really an antagonist muscle in climbing, as it's used in a lot of movement (each time you climb on compression boulders, obviously in pushing movements, but also in a lot of pulling movement where it's used).

  • @SnowmansApartment

    @SnowmansApartment

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@miguelgazquez5717 hmm yeah but i think it‘s more about volume and the relatively of the muscles activated. If you are that strict, wrist extensors would also not be antagonists, as you definitely use them when pinching. The fact is that extensors and chest muscles, although being used in some way or another, don‘t develop nearly as strong as your back does(or parts of your back), which can cause serious issues and injuries. I think i have very weak extensors compared to my flexors, and that might be a reason why i was injured basically every time i climbed regularly..

  • @miguelgazquez5717

    @miguelgazquez5717

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@SnowmansApartment Yeah, you're right. I guess a more precise way to talk would be to say to which point a muscle is an antagonist ? Intuitively I would guess that the chest is "less antagonistic" than wrist extensors, but I don't really know (and maybe we just shouldn't care).

  • @daytimerocker3808
    @daytimerocker38082 жыл бұрын

    Magnus you’re looking extra jacked at that body weight. Absolute beast man.

  • @JustinMNYC
    @JustinMNYC2 жыл бұрын

    Magnus, don't let the wrist roller just unroll / fall freely! Lower with control for added forearm engagement - it's easier than rolling up, but controlled lowering increases time under tension and burns slightly differently. Thanks for the video as always!

  • @insearchoffaith
    @insearchoffaith2 жыл бұрын

    love the training content!

  • @isaac-qz7hn
    @isaac-qz7hn2 жыл бұрын

    Great video!

  • @jonasmata7738
    @jonasmata7738Ай бұрын

    It’s so interesting to see training like this, for me I do bodybuilding training and the way it’s different is so cool. I’m also getting into climbing too so this is def a cool video to watch

  • @ZoraZoldier
    @ZoraZoldier2 жыл бұрын

    Oooo shit I'm so psyched for Magnus Ice Climbing!! 😄 💪

  • @wankershim
    @wankershim2 жыл бұрын

    Video schedule sounds awesome! Really excited for the ice climbing. Would love to see some collabs with other fitness youtubers like juji, back guy, or anton.

  • @daniel_brqlo
    @daniel_brqlo2 жыл бұрын

    Man... I envy your travels and your climbing around the world... but I envy the fact that you never got injured even more! 😆

  • @woulg
    @woulg2 жыл бұрын

    God that last exercise made me laugh so hard, like just full on Magnus thirst trap content hahaha. So amazing. Great video as always

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