Pulling up actual data really adds a lot of value to your channel. Thank you for this.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

My pleasure!

This is a great video. Really appreciate you putting it together. I was worried about "only" putting 3 inches of cc foam in my new build house. No longer. Thanks for clearing it up for me.

Thank you for being honest and saving money

Really glad you put this information out. Thanks for taking your time to do this.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Very good explanation. Accuracy matters!

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Watched more, love the detail on heat loss and spray foam efficiency!! Good job

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it!

Gosh I just love your videos. Well done! Clear delivery of info!

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you like them!

Great content...as always. Thank you Mike!

Common sense derived on facts. Awesome job presenting info in all perspectives!

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Your videos make me want to start a spray foam business. Thank you for the amazing content!!

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Beware, that has been tried only to be followed with much regret... But I get what you are saying, inspiration is found in excellence.

Great video...Top shelf information. Thanks.

@SprayJones

Ай бұрын

Thanks for watching!

There’s some proper application, multi pass, staying off the studs!! Good job boys!!

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks

Love your videos. I've learned a lot. The information will definitely be helpful when building my soon to be next home. Thank you from the lower 48.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Awesome! Thank you! 4 part series coming out next week on Roofs and SPF. Everything you want to know and maybe more.

@markchidester6239

3 жыл бұрын

At theses lumber prices? I was thinking about offering a guy a sheet of 3/4" plywood and 4 2x4s for his Harley. Idk, I might be getting ripped off..

Great video.. me and my father often talk about diminishing returns.. this is great example of that.

@SprayJones

9 ай бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it!

I finally found what I have been looking for. Thanks!

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Glad I could help!

@brianrichards5828

2 жыл бұрын

👍

Great information

How is it that a free 9 minute youtube video could have saved me thousands of dollars, days of labor, and headache with my local installer if I did 2 inches instead of 6 in my office build knowing this information. Hats off to you sir. Is there a way to donate to your channel? You will have literally saved me probably $15k or more on my current project I'm about to start. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and knowledge in these videos!

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

You need to ensure that whatever amount of SPF you place in will meet with local codes first.

@phantomsoil

Жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones Agreed. My buildings are not subject to building insulation codes just my personal preference on thermal efficiency.

Another great video -- Thanks for your knowledge share!

@SprayJones

4 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you !!

Very useful info thanks

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

Wow, thanks, very educational and informing, thanks, stay blessed

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

My pleasure

Thanks for the great information!!! Just had a guy tell me I needed 6 inches on the roof of my steel building! With this information I will go with 3 inches! And go with a different company! Wish you guys where in Arizona!

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Glad I could help!

very helpful!

Good information

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

Thanks

just had 3 inch closed sprayed on the bottom of the roof deck and 2 inch in the walls. the change is unbelievable. im sold on it when i get to renovating the rest of the outer walls i will def have it sprayed

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it worked out. Thank you for the testimony.

Thank you! Finally someone explaining this in a simple way. You guys are amazing.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you, glad to help that is what we want to do. Empower through educating. Check out the other videos to complete your understanding.

@imdeplorable2241

3 жыл бұрын

Exactly.

@skyline5354

3 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones local company to me (Ontario) is quoting $2,500 tax incl for 950sqft basement at 2” thick. Walltite/CM01 Is this a fair price?

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

@@skyline5354 Yikes! That is super cheap. But I hear that about Ontario SPF guys they all like to give stuff away.

@nickhourd

3 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones Other trades too. Brand new 2k sqft home here is wired for under 5k all in. I won't work in Ontario anymore.

Good info. When I'm ready to build in 5 or so years i plan on 2x6 framing, or bigger, 2in closed cell and then rockwool, and exterior insulation for thermal break. Going for a passive house rating in northern MI.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Ok

@frankly2677

3 жыл бұрын

2-3 inches is all you would need, dont spend the extra on inferior insulation.

@christophergruenwald5054

2 жыл бұрын

The Rockwool would help reduce sound the transfers through the closed cell foam if you are in a noisy area. You do get thermal bridging through the studs yet so exterior insulation is a good plan if it breaths like the Rockwool product. 2 inches isn’t enough by itself. You will see a substantial difference through a thermal imaging camera from 2-3 inches. I usually recommend 3 sometimes 4 inches and being done with it unless it’s in a noisy environment. Then there are other requirements needing to be met. I’ve even done a handful of 5 inch applications on roofs over the years. Back when foam was cheap anyway. Now it’s about double the price from 1.5 years ago.

I live in SW CO and our county has no code enforcement. I am taking advantage of this to keep my foam costs down. Our house is ICF construction, and I had 2" of 2lb closed cell sprayed on the underside of the shed style roof that extends over a three room bump out on the first level, making the attic of this section conditioned space. In the winter, it stayed "room temp" above the ceiling. This summer, I do see that it is getting warmer, but not enough to be a concern. (Room temp ~75F, attic ~80F, 95F outside in full sun for days, no A/C) Thermal imaging shows that most of this heat comes in through the trusses, not the foam between them. I am going to opt for 2.5" on the main roof, which is rafter style vaulted ceiling using TJI's. Thanks to the TJI's, I should have much less thermal bridging, and 2.5" of foam should keep pretty much all the heat out in the summer. I already know 2" is more than sufficient in the winter. With 2 to 2.5" of closed cell foam, my house is technically WAY under the R-value of most codes, and yet the performance of my conditioned envelope is likely better than I could have achieved with the use of fiber insulation of any kind, particularly considering my TJI rafter vaulted ceiling design, which would be a pain to vent and insulate properly. Very happy with spray foam, we really need codes to start allowing less of it to be used rather than demanding an r-value...

Thanks for great information. I'm building a new garage this year and was going to spray the walls and blow in the attic. After watching your videos I will spray the complete garage now. It just makes sense. I sprayed my house attic with 4 inches and expected to see the payoff in heat savings in 7 years. I was WRONG. Payoff happened in 4 years. I was worth every penny. Especially if you live in the far north of Ontario Canada. Love how it kept the rodents out also.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Sounds great!

@brunomourasilva6247

3 жыл бұрын

Hey, how much did you pay to spray foam your Attic?

I build custom homes in the Cleveland Ohio area. We use 2x6 walls with Huber Zip sheathing. We focus on getting as close to a ACH50 of 1.0 as possible. In the living spaces over the garage, which most of our buyers finish we use closed cell foam 2” then dense pack the remainder of the roof and floor. We use an unvented roof over the garage which reduces the thermal bridging issues with a knee wall. We use Zoned HVAC systems and on a 6500 sq ft home (counting 2000 ft of basement finished) we find a single 70,000/80,000 98% variable speed multi state furnace with an ERV and 26 Seer variable AC makes the hole incredibly comfortable and the heating and cooling bills extremely low. We use an R-10 on the exterior basement foundation walls and we spray 3” of closed cell in all the rim joists. In addition we aeroseal all the duct work and soray 2” closed cell foam on all exposed duct work in the attic areas then cover with R-60 which seems to settle to around R55 after a year. Our building inspectors require full fill cavities. Last year we did a full fill open cell foam on a customers home on request. Truthfully that home Has done very well and has been extremely comfortable also. The issue was waste. The over expansion and shaving of the foam seeds too wasteful. I’m considering building a double wall home, where we use 2x4 exterior and 2x4 interior wall to stop thermal bridging. I thought I’d try dense pack fiberglass on one home then the next use 3” closed cell and the balance of dense pack fiberglass.

Awesome video thx

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it

I have 24 foot high ceilings in my shop and the walls are built 90" on center 6x6 beams. The added bonus i could see with having thicker spray foam walls is better shear force when its windy.

@christophergruenwald5054

2 жыл бұрын

You get a tremendous amount of shear force out of 3 inches of closed cell already. Your building is never going to fail from shear forces at 3 inches so why go over that?

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Agreed.

I agree with everything you said! Only way to justifie more foam is if energy cost rise drastically then it may start to make sense but then most likely the foam will cost more too.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Yup.

@henryhenry5897

2 жыл бұрын

@@addisonmcmercer878 no, chemical is a big cost most instance it’s the bigger part of the job it used to be 50/50 Labour/chemical. Example i sprayed my shop 36x50x16 2“ walls and ceiling I was ablte to heat it with a wood stove to about 8c with a Osburn 3300 Woodstove only at -30c Manitoba. I added 2“ to a total of 4“ so I can heat it Easier plus I’m a contractor so I do it myself. If I where to hire a contractor I’d say do 3“ ceiling 2-3“walls I think best Bank for the buck as far as the efficiency I feel I need. Now as we see hydro prices sky rocket and Insulation materials I’d consider going more as much as you can as it’s just a matter of time it will pay for itself

@christophergruenwald7266

4 ай бұрын

2 things you can count on going up for your entire life is energy costs and taxes.

Man if I could get a true and even R value of closed cell spray foam that also added total vapor control and draft control that would make up for soooo much. Even with my 1976 2x4 frame home.

This is great information. Would the same percentages in your chart be the same for a ceiling?

My personal beliefs is a mixture of closed cell with rock wool insulation laying over. Closed cell gives you structural integrity, air and moisture barrier properties and great insulation values. While the rock wool will give you great insulation values as well for what it is, but I am looking for the amazing sound qualities it offers. A 2x6 wall with approximately 2 inches across the entire house (closed cell) and then filled with 2x4 rock wool. While having 24 inch center stud walls.

@dillonbledsoe7680

10 ай бұрын

Rockwool needs ventilation won't work with foam

@garrimic3

10 ай бұрын

@@dillonbledsoe7680 ??? What??? How do you get that? If it’s in a closed wall as all homes are then how is it code compliant?

@snapcrack55

2 ай бұрын

The thing you have to watch out for is mold growth. I'm going through that right now. If you have a closed cell and then any type of bat insulation it is really difficult to get the bat insulation without any gap between the spray foam. That dead airspace can create mold in a cold environment.

@garrimic3

2 ай бұрын

@@snapcrack55 … that’s true… I decided to just use rock wool in my studded walls with two overlapping layers of closed cell boards with reflective aluminum foil attached on the outside exterior walls. House rapped first, foam boards, 3/4” gap for reflective material and then roofing metal to finish it off. Looks just like a farmhouse.

Very helpful video. Do you have a link to the source for the chart? That would be very helpful.

Nice video, I was planning to install an r20 on my basement walls, but now I feel comfortable with r12. I have an attached garage with 2 bedrooms on top of that, my contractor told me that he can spray 5" over the garage drywall, but it would be better to tear down and spray on the garage ceiling, does it make sense? Right now I have an r20 pink insulation, I will have to install new drywall on top of the spray foam.

Hello, great video as you explain thoroughly, I have a question have you ever sprayed closed cell in an area and then sprayed open cell on top of closed cell as that would fill full 2x6 wall but it may be an experiment to make a video on.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

We do not do that. Yes a video needs to be done about that for sure. So subscribe and watch it will be coming out.

I did 7 & 8" of closed cell on the roof deck. Percentages are deceiving. So in my case 3000sq./ft That's about 3700BTU's of heat per hour which is about 10M BTU's per season. This enabled me to downsize the overall heating system nearly paying for the upgrade Plus the savings every year.

The latest energy codes (IECC) just implemented in the USA require a substantial R-value requiring a full 2x6 cavity of closed cell foam for residential construction if you want to avoid paying for continuous exterior insulation as well. Most will probably go with the full cavity of spray foam because of cost. Most will not realize the benefit of preventing thermal bridging with continuous exterior insulation and reducing the amount of cavity wall R-value.

So nice! You do excellent work -- QUESTION -- We love the look of concrete, especially in the cottage we are planning, an exposed concrete wall in the basement. Can we spray on the exterior (below grade), with enough insulation to keep the interior surface of the concrete at room temperture during winter (3 inches??)? We want to see the interior concrete but we don't want a huge cold surface during winter. Temperture can hit -25 C during the worst of winter.

@SprayJones

4 ай бұрын

Please watch the videos in the playlist "in contact with ground" to bring you up to speed.

I love the BTU retention charts. Do you have the equivalent charts for any other types of insulation? I'd be curious to see how they compare head to head in this test, seeing how the r-value test is tilted so heavily in their favor.

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Go watch the R value Myth video...

I see you respond to soo many comments. I am in Zone 3 (atlanta ga) and some installers are saying do 3 inches and some are saying 4 inches of closed cell on a new build. The 2 that are saying do 4 inches are saying it will encapsulate the roof truss and reduce thermal bridging. Just not sure which to do.

@SprayJones

7 ай бұрын

I like the 4" for those reasons. A 3.5" top cord allows for 4" to go over it nice. We never build a ridge of SPF directly over the cord, instead just allow the SPF to crest over it and keep it imbedded.

Do they have that same test for open cell versus closed cell?

My question is what thickness of 2 lb closed cell spray foam gives you a vapor barrier on inside walls? I want to flash and batt with rock wool. How much CC foam will I need to put on the rim joists to ensure that water vapor that moves through the rock wool will not condense on the inside surface of the foam in winter time? Obviously the foam has to be thick enough to lower the dewpoint at the inside surface so vapor does not condense.

I'm in Laredo, TX, high heat, humidity, I'm considering switching from my current build plan of open cell to closed cell. Would you think that's a better option? Spraying the attic space under a metal roof and the walls. Interior walls would be open cell just for noise. Thanks and I appreciate all of the information you've shared with us.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

2 lb foam is the king, has been and always will be. That is 99% of what we do. Get it installed correct and you will have it for generations.

@christophergruenwald5054

2 жыл бұрын

In Texas where you have your vapor barrier on the exterior of the building and dry to the inside, open cell is king. It’s cheaper and you can pile it on to stop heat flow.

This video is great! One question: Can a person spray foam the roof on an attic that is vented and unconditioned. Would that 2” inch or so of foam act as (or replace) a “Radiant Barrier”? (The radiant barrier being that think aluminum foil looking stuff).

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Better watch the video on going into an enclosed attic to spray. You can find it in the "how not to get cheated" playlist. It is called spraying down onto drywall, should this be done.

What’s a better option doing 3 inch spray foam or doing 2” with 1 1/2 batts im trying to get good r value but also help with acoustics as I live on busy street. Same question goes for ceiling in basement should I do batts, open cell foam, or both basement ceiling is strictly for acoustics, and what do you suggest in attic ceiling because I hear blow in drops down to r4 in -25. Great video btw

Great video. Question: My rafters are 2 x 10. If I spray 3" then what happens with the remaining 6.5" of cavity space? Wouldn't condensation be an issue between the drywall and the closed cell foam? If I place batt insulation in the remaining cavity wouldn't that also be susceptible to condensation?

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

No there will not be condensation. The cavity is deep than needed, you have to renew your mind to how well SPF works. No air through the foam, you are buying a shot of whiskey not a pint of beer.

Bravo! Just finished a deep dive of your vids. We will be using ccSPF in our home. Insulator quoted 3" for code R-21 on the Rims, Walls, and Roof. Question about the roof foam; can we put rockwool in the bays after the foam (Flash and batt I think it's called) to get a better result?

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

No! Watch the flash and batt videos. You do not need it once the foam is there.

@snapcrack55

2 ай бұрын

We're going through that issue right now. We had an inch and a half spray foam on our vaulted ceiling and then fiberglass bats over that. The problem is you can't get the fiberglass tight enough to the spray foam and then you get mold growth in that dead air space

thank you for all the info. great videos. question. i am adding a shed roof 4 season room to the side of my house. It will be built off the ground on cement piers. since the floor deck will only be 1 foot from ground, to seal the bottom of the floor, i plan to install cdx treated plywood between the floor joists . The 4/12 shed roof will sit on the current home shingled roof . Since it will be a cathedral roof. concern is proper ventalation. i was planning on useing fiberglass bats, but after watching your videos thinking i should use closed cell in the entire room.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Combining old with new can be tricky. You need to have enough room to spray the foam, that is #1. Then you have to divide the two so that cold vented roof will not affect the SPF section.

@gordongoodkey4118

3 жыл бұрын

You've touched on this before that it can be a big problem if you can't get to the space needing foam .I totally agree you could indeed miss important structure that needs to be sprayed to complete the seal and that is so important. But here's my question how would you do it with any other products it's even more impossible to properly seal so I'm thinking is you can't foam it likely you cant do anything else either

Chris Grider: How are you venting that attic space?? I didn't see any baffles before spraying, how does excess moisture escape? How do you know if you have a roof leak? Would this cause the roof sheeting to rot?

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

SPF attics do not need to be vented. Watch the 4 part series on non vented roofs to learn more.

This is VERY helpful. If I'm in northern Wisconsin and want to insulate my attic floor how many inches of closed cell foam + insulation would you recommend? Or would you go with 2 inches of closed cell and call it a day?

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

You better watch the spraying down to drywall video first. It is in the vaulted roof playlist.

If you have closed cell foam installed on your attic roof and later get new shingles installed, what can be done with all the new nails? Sometimes the nails they use are way too long. This could extend through the foam or decrease the insulation value. What can/should be done with new shingles if you have solid foam? If you have already answered this I apologize for the same question. I haven't gone through all of the comments yet. Very informative videos. Thanks. This is really important for the 2nd floor ceiling, (no real attic just the space from the 2x6, 2x8, 2x10 or whatever is used for your roof) . How can you fix this without removing the drywall? Thanks.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Don't be an idiot and install the Wrong thing! Just install the shingles. We have had home loose shingles in wind storms and they just put them on. Question: What do you do about all the new nail holes in the sheathing?

What about roof leaks if you have spray foam on attic ceiling?

I live in Florida and looking for the code for closed cell spray foam

I disagree with the numbers converted to percentage, because it's based off of 0% efficiency being a loss of 558btu/hr. So when you compare that to how much do you save using 3 inches and more vs 2 inches it don't sound like much as a percentage. But when you do the math on BTU's for an actual structure square footage you end up with some big differences. I did some quick math here, 40x72x14 4:12 has about 6624sqft before windows and doors. 2 inches requires 21,358 BTU/hr, 3 inches 15,951 BTU/hr, 4 inches 12,977 BTU/hr, 5 inches 10,273 BTU/hr. So 3 inches is 33% more efficient than 2 inches, 4 inches is 65% more efficient than 2 inches, and 5 inches is 108% more efficient than 2 inches. This should be what the numbers are compared to. And the efficiency comparison in the video doesn't do these real numbers any justice.

Regarding ASTM C-236 and building codes. My problem with the test specifically, and insulation codes generally, is that they don’t take into account things like thermal bridging, or thermal mass. If you take traditional framing with 2” of closed cell sprayed into stud bays you still get a lot of heat loss because the 3” of exposed R-1 stud is acting like a highway bringing in cold. Flash and batt remains popular because it protects the 3” of exposed stud. The best answer seems to be putting your insulation on the exterior.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Hello Jack, good to see you again! I am going to do a video on insulation, thermal bridging and methods. Because there are a lot of miss conceptions as to what is a problem. The foam burning video is a prime example. Some things just need to be seen to be understood.

@jackjmaheriii

3 жыл бұрын

I can’t wait! The video where you describe exactly why you can see condensation outlining the trusses through the shingles, regardless of how much insulation is on the back was extremely enlightening.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

@@jackjmaheriii I have an even better one coming showing snow melt in the middle of winter for a spray foam roof. All the heat is from the sun and NOT inside. I am kicking the info into high gear. 2021 will be a major year for info. 2022 will be the podcast for sprayers.

@mnelson996

3 жыл бұрын

@@jackjmaheriii Which video are you referencing about the "condensation outlining the trusses"? Thanks

@jackjmaheriii

3 жыл бұрын

@@mnelson996 The video is called “spray foam insulation causes frost lines on the roof.” It’s from two years ago and it’s kind of a fun video because it has a mystery theme.

I have watched many of your videos. Spray Foam is where it's at! Great information. But - how does one put it into practical use? I am building a small, 1000 sq, modified cape in southern MA. Code requires (ZONE 5) an R 30 wall value. How do I convince a building inspector that I only need 2 inches of closed cell? Ceiling are an R60!!!! I'm not sure what a cathedral ceiling requires but that's what we're constructing..

@SprayJones

2 ай бұрын

You cannot. You need to have a consultant write your specs that has the ability to seal the design.

Thanks Mr @SprayJones! Why do some areas like mine (Nova Scotia) ask for r24 value in the walls (5 inches of foam) when an r13 of foam will do? Should a homeowner build to code?

@SprayJones

6 ай бұрын

Code is written for fibrous, but at this time there is no designation for batts vs SPF on white paper. Unless you are not having new code enforced.... then you can do what physics and your wallet says.

👍👍

As someone looking to build and hoping to use spray foam, this was very helpful and informative. Thank you! Are there any good ways to weed out bad companies when looking for a contractor? I watched your video on what is a bad spray job, but I'd like to know if they're worthwhile beforehand, and want to make sure they're not scamming me with someone else's work. Any tips to detect a scammer? Certain questions that should get a certain answer, sort of thing? Obviously, there is no perfect way to tell short of going to an active job site to see them in action, but that's not always possible.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, we have multiple videos. I will create a playlist for that. Go check back on the channel for it.

@Zurar

3 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones Ahh, just had to look a bit deeper, apparently... the playlist helped, thank you!

Do you have a video comparing the BTU loss charts with spray foam & other types of insulation?

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Yes. But that is for another video.

Not to mention the air seal with spray foam not achieved with fiberglass or rockwool insulation and some people will argue that a plastic sheet will achieve that, which it will not.

Thank you for your videos. How is the efficiency of spray foam handled when performing Manual J load calculations HVAC equipment? I am currently constructing my own home and had the HVAC contract do the load calculations and explained that I would be using closed cell for an unvented attic. His response was the manual J only relates to "R-Value" or "U-Value" and I would need to meet the code R value no matter what type of insulation was used. The current plan is to spray 2" of closed cell and 7.5" of open cell to meet the prescribed "R-Value" and fill the 2x10 rafter cavity. Is their any discussion of incorporating efficiency into the Manual J? Or is the solution to perform the ASTM C236 on fiberglass batts and show the R value of 3.5" of fiberglass batt (R-13) is not the same as 2" of closed cell spray foam (R-14)?

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Sarah you are encountering a common issue. You need to find an engineering group that understands the SPF and has software written to deal with it. In the USA start with: energywisestructures.com/

Watching this video again why at 6:50 is there piece of poly there like if you were insulating with fibreglass and having a continuous vapour barrier?

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

Jobs are switched over from batt to SPF.

This was very helpful. I have a 12×20 cabin with 2×6 walls. I have a wood stove for heat and winter cooking. Completely off grid (no electricity). I have been hesitant about spraying, just because I really didn't know how much, really how little I needed to be efficient with my wood burning. I believe, according to your explanation, that I really only need the 2" level of spray. I'm using plank walls, so there is a going to be an air gap between the spray and interior wall. Should I still put a vapor barrier behind the wall boards, or is that overkill?

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

Honestly watch more of the vids. All these questions are answered here including the vapor barrier one.

@damondiehl5637

Жыл бұрын

I would say "no" as the spray foam give you both a thermal break and an air break, per Mike Holmes on his show. Spraying 2" of foam also means you are not burying your electrical wires in the foam. You can have the wires proud of the foam, for the most part, which makes any remodeling down the road a lot easier. Even if you are off-grid, who is to say you won't want to throw up a solar panel and a couple batteries and at least have some LED lights?

Even the eskimos are building igloos with 3” blocks of pressed snow

I am planning to insulate my basement walls with spray foam, but I have huge stairs in of the walls, making it hard to insulate the area and rim joints, will that influence my air seal and insulation performance? I can only insulate on 3/1-2 walls.

@christophergruenwald5054

2 жыл бұрын

I usually do 2 inches on concrete and 3 inches in the rim joist. You won’t be able to spray behind the stairs if you have finished Sheetrock already on there. While it’s best to have it all done, it won’t make a substantial difference if it’s just a really small area.

Good honest information. I might add that you also have to take into account Dew Point to prevent condensation from forming on the interior. Min: 2" exterior walls (except basement walls) and Min: 3" on roof decks. Anything less you risk of severe condensation buildup inside the building envelope particularly when its really cold outside. Not a good situation when covered by drywall. Great videos btw.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Scott that is not true at all. Where are you getting this from? We are in Canada all our jobs have to go through extreme cold. I have never seen condensation on 1.5 inches of closed cell. Even at an inch the thermals are good enough to stop condensing. We live this stuff.

@scottgray1535

3 жыл бұрын

Easy Spray Jones. Just because you post a couple videos doesn't mean you have all the answers. Where are you getting your information? I've been spraying foam for 15 years in the Northeast so I myself have a very solid understanding of what works and what doesn't. If the thermal dynamics in Canada are different from the rest of the world then by all means keep spraying 1.5 inches! Good luck!

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

@@scottgray1535 You claimed minimums in your comment. What reference is that? There is none.... for 2 reasons. You question my tech references....go watch the vapour barrier video, it is all there. I have detailed the physics of condensation many times.

@scottgray1535

3 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones keep spraying 1.5" then. You have all the answers. Good luck...SMH

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

@@scottgray1535 Thanks for watching Scott.

Hey mike Great video… i just had my home sprayed from the exterior and the contractor that did the work sprayed closed cell 2lb 3 inches thick.. it looked like they were doing it in 2 passes. However I do have a question. In areas where they sprayed too much they had to shave off areas and the foam on the inside is a different colour and not purple it also has little bubbles almost like thousands of little air pocket bubbles… comparable to a chocolate aero bar but smaller pockets… it feels dense but not as super dense as the foam shell on the outside is this normal?

@BmxScuz

2 жыл бұрын

Normal. Is there any issues with your insulation ?

Hello, love your content. Quick question…what causes ridge rot? A local high end builder at my church says to put in a ridge vent and space down between rafters and then seal it all off with spray foam. This allows moisture to be pushed up to the ridge and out without affecting the air barrier. Thoughts?

@SprayJones

4 ай бұрын

You are mixing up insulating methods. Ridge rot is something to do with humid attics that have ventilation problems. SPF uses a non-vented attic. Watch the 4 part series on non-vented roof. I have a dedicated playlist for the vaulted ceilings and SPF.

@shaunwiegert

4 ай бұрын

@@SprayJones thanks for replying. I was just told by a local contractor to be careful when going to SPF due to new found cases of ridge rot when sealing up an attic, or in my case the second floor rafters. My research disagreed and that is why I came to you for an answer. I will rewatch that series of videos. Gotta make sure this is done right. Thanks again.

Is there a risk of mold forming on the drywall if there is a gap to the outside sheathing

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

No

Good work, you guys seem very knowledgeable. With so many fly by nighters and cowboys out there do you happen to have any referrals for a spray company in Ontario, I’m looking to do my attic.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Talk with BASF in Toronto and they will get you in touch with certified people around you.

@Andrico77

3 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones thx

Great video. My only question as I have seen your video on the roof and closed cell. I am in TN in the USA. As the architect plan on your closed cell foam roof plan specified 4" inches under the deck. Would you suggest that as well? I plan on doing 2" under my slab, 2" on the walls, 2" on my ceiling under my conditioned attic space. But am confused on how thick I should go on the roof deck, which will be zip, shark skin and then shingles. Not really sure. I am not really under any code or forced codes at this time. So just looking for some solid advice on what you would suggest in that scenario in this instant. As I do not have to conform to any codes or restriction. I mean will 2" be good on roof deck or should I request more? Thanks

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

3" or 4" will be fine if compliant with you regs.

Yes 😂 we have to spray 7" of sprayfoam for ceilings/roofs in Virginia. I tell people you have a yeti cooler by the time we are done. Our estimates are in the 40k range because of the requirements of "R-value"

@SprayJones

9 ай бұрын

That needs changing.

@yanbaihuzxzxzx

9 ай бұрын

@@SprayJones yes it would cut costs significantly. To bad the fiberglass manufacturers got the market cornered

Hello there, what kind of product do you use and what are the temperatures that your guys normally use?

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

The product is Walltite by BASF sold in Canada. The rest I can't tell you..... Goldilocks!

Good day Just wondering what brand you would recommend to a first timer doing this in Canada's far north I want to do a 2" spray and I am looking at using FROTH-PAK FROTH-PAK 620 Sealant Foam Insulation

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Froth Paks are a disaster, not to mention illegal in Canada when not used according to their limited certification. You need a professional contractor spray foam that meets the ULC requirements set out by code.

Is there a threat of condensation on the drywall back if a cavity is not filled

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

No

How much sound deadening Do you achieve the thicker you go? Any published calculations?

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

No data on closed cell. Open has that.

Would it make a difference if you put an air space between the first two inches and a second two inches of spray foam

@christophergruenwald5054

2 жыл бұрын

No.

Question how do we deal with local building codes?

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

With high-powered help.

How do you get from the data at 2:47 to the data at 3:03? If I use 24.5 ft2 and 72 deg dt and the heat flow in the table, I get an R value of almost 12 per inch but the data at 3:03 shows a value of 6.

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

You are cross referencing two things: First is the heat flow of the test, the second is relating that back to an ASTM test for resistance value in a lab test for "R value" It proves that the Lab test for "R value" is still way off in real world conditions. Hence why I do no like to even us those numbers when talking to people. But we have been saddled with this myth.

Can you use a layer of open cell foam on top of closed cell foam?

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Yes.

Question. Is there an advantage to 1" of closed cell followed with 3" of open cell? As opposed to only 2" of closed cell? Some installers are recommending this application mainly due to cost of material. THANKS!

@SprayJones

Жыл бұрын

Pick one product.

Help me understand y my builder went with 2" as their standard, thanks.

@christophergruenwald5054

2 жыл бұрын

Cheaper most likely. I live in a cold climate and don’t recommend anything less than 3 inches unless it is concrete below grade.

Do you have a source document for those numbers? I’d like to look at it.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

I am building a resource page on my website where we can upload info. Soon.

So if someone is building a passive house or net zero you would just spray 3” in the roof?

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Passive Solar is a BIG topic. Too vast to answer here. Maybe one day I will do a video on that subject.

Question: Any Idea if double walled 2x4 construction, with a minimal foam thickness (say 1inch in the inside wall and 1” on the outer wall) separated buy an air gap of ( 2.5” between layers) would deliver better insulation results than a single layer of 2” thickness?

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Too hard to say. Construction needs to be practical for whatever solution we bring.

@4pharaoh

3 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones double wall construction is being heavily promoted. All over YT, but never using foam for insulation.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

@@4pharaoh Oh, yah. Well let's see if I can come up with some mind blowing data soon for studs.

How well does this keep the sun’s heat from penetrating a cathedral ceiling? My spray foam contractor recommended 3.5”.

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Fine. I have no objections to that.

What would these numbers look like 20% drift

I have 2x4 framing on my basement walls, does it make sense to remove the framing before applying the insulation? I am concerned that there is not enough space to install 2" of spray foam behind the studs, in some places I only have a 1" gap between the wall and stud.

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Leave it. Not worth the messing around for the inch. Have done lots like that no one moves them out.

@brunomourasilva6247

3 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones thanks for the answer

@christophergruenwald5054

2 жыл бұрын

@@brunomourasilva6247 the 1 inch gap is great. It gives you a thermal and moisture break from the concrete wall and studs.

good day, I have watched many videos about spray insulation, but all insulate only the interior. My question : 1. can the insulating foam also be applied to the exterior wall and can then be plastered over ., or covered with Fibercement Board. 2. are Hollow Blocks can be filled with it and then results in insulation. thanks

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, but exterior insulation is more difficult and requires extra steps to be taken to support the finishing system that will hang just in front of the SPF. It is truly the best way to go and is done commercially a lot.

@wolfgangdietrich4141

3 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones thank you, but that was not my question , and then how is the instalation of the polyurethane foam ??

How is spray foam thickness measured? Is it like 2 inches equals inch and a half as in you would measure lumber or should it be 2 inches equals 2 inches?

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Measured with a probe. Nominal thickness is 1/4" low to 1/4" high.

Does the application of closed cell spray foam ever melt wires? What temperature does the foam normally reach when it’s first applied and curing? My builder is putting spray foam in our remodeled house and I’m concerned it will melt cables, but I heard that’s pretty unlikely

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Foam will not melt wires if: you have good quality wiring, the foam is installed according to the design parameters.

@braydinjones6301

3 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones Thank you!

After you spray 1" of closed cell foam , how much does it expand ?

@SprayJones

3 жыл бұрын

Under ideal conditions expansion for 2 lb foam is x25 the liquid mass.

Thank you for showing the chart of Insulation values per 1" of PUFoam. I had not seen that before. I have long thought that the maximum benefit was that first 1" and all additional depth benefits was fractional by comparison. All property Insulation has to be applied with a modicum of common sense.. Having 2' of insulation on all walls but having a window wide open makes that all pointless.. When I first became aware of spray foam Insulation (25 yrs +..) the tendency was to inject enclosed voids rather than open spraying.. I always preferred the cleaner appearance and full bonding benefits of injection.. It seems that open spraying is mainly for the benefit of the installers..? Is that fair..?

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback

@ricoludovici2825

Жыл бұрын

Back then - speaking from the mid-1970s forward in Minnesota, foam insulation was mostly for retrofit installation, thus injected into closed stud bays -- along with pushing the interior wall covering, plaster or drywall, off the studs when too much foam was injected. Open spraying was for commercial projects. Spray foam for residential installation with open spraying has been something from about the mid-1990s forward. At least in my experience in Southern California. This is now a mature industry and all these data sheets presented here, as he pointed out, are from the early 2000's when they were trying to get standard residential codes to accept spray foam. 20 some years later, as you can see, the building codes still treat it like glass fiber or cellulose insulation: more is more without regard to the cost/benefit equation.

@Mole-Skin

Жыл бұрын

@@ricoludovici2825 Here in the UK, injected foam early use was mainly retro-fit in older cavity wall properties with 2 skins of brick with a 4" air gap so was strong enough not to blow but had the added benefit of bonding everything together and generally strengthening the Property which was what really appealed to me as a Builder. Until they discovered that the quality of the foam was not very good and ended up as brown dust. Your point about blowing plasterboard seems more about not doing the job correctly. I was at a Trade show recently and got talking with the Spray foam guys and even they admitted that there was no measureable benefit over 4" Thick.. and that above that was just a waste of material. I started looking into how Home Insurance views plastic Foams (Not mineral wool..) and they view it as combustable.. Sustainable vs Insureable.. So.. 'More is better' should be replaced with 'optimum' or 'Enough is Enough' as a standpoint. IMHO..

@ricoludovici2825

Жыл бұрын

@@Mole-Skin It's a mature industry now. Back then it was everyone for themselves. In fact, the original Rapco foam was urea formaldehyde. You know, urine and formaldehyde. It stunk and was uncontrollable in small spaces. Where I lived, the blown=in "cellulose" insulation was made from ground and treated newspapers. At one point, they were making it so fast you could ascutally see the printing on the shreds and they left out the boric acid flame retardant. The failure was settling in closed spaces and soaking up water in attrcs to where the ceiling fell off the joisting. I know about how UK insurers won't insure foamed houses. But they have no problem with, ohhh, WOOD. And electrical materials. Here in the US, certain practices in electrical installations are banned by code on one side of the street and allowed on the other side if it is a different town. All part of the game. Best is the enemy of better in so many cases.

Thanks for this video....should help us optimize the investment in thermal protection. One question still....what is the minimum waiting time between layers? The company I'm considering to contract for such a job, is using close cell PU foam from Huntsman (DALTOTHERM® TSA30-00), and in the technical specification sheet, it says that for more than 12cm foam, there should be a 12 hours waiting time between the layers, but it doesn't specify what should be the waiting time for less than 12cm. I was considering to apply 15cm of foam, but still in one day. Many thanks in advance.

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

The answer is "I don't know". Because I would consult the data sheet, or call the rep. We use Demilec and it can take 100mm (4 inches) in 2 passes with no waiting between them. The technology in the chemistry is rapidly changing and improving, so you have to ask those who make it.

@MrSavage77

2 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones thanks. This one can take up to 40mm per pass. I will try to get a feedback from the manufacturer

@RM-np1gm

2 жыл бұрын

@@MrSavage77 Maybe a typo? 40mm = a little over 15 inches. but 4 mm = 1.5 inches.

For spray thickness..what about a wine cellar? Would it be worth those few extra percentages to fill the entire cavity of 2x4 and 2x6 wall? Should closed cell be used for a wine cellar?

@SprayJones

2 жыл бұрын

All the data applies for Vino.

@velocityacoustics

2 жыл бұрын

@@SprayJones OK. Closed or open celll?

@ricoludovici2825

Жыл бұрын

@@velocityacoustics Spray Jones will ALWAYS go with closed cell if there is a choice. It has all the benefits: very high insulation value, moisture barrier, rigid. The open cell is no moisture barrier until it get a certain thickness and that is not keeping the moisture out. It is just holding it in the spaces between the little balls. And not nearly as rigid.