Absolutely great video. Thank you. RS. Canada

I kept my old metal cannister and reel. You are funny. I was trying to recall what I needed as its been a while. Thanks for the vid

@karledwards

9 ай бұрын

My pleasure!

Lol. Really appreciate your effort in producing this excellent video. I was hoping it was going to be as simple as throwing my film into a bucket of bleach for a bit. This is way over my head but I'm so glad I know what's involved now. Don't feel bad for sending it to a lab any more 😂😍

@karledwards

5 ай бұрын

It's actually pretty easy to be honest. There's a lot of steps involved but none of them are particularly difficult! Give it a try!! :)

I have some extra tips: 1. Pre-rinse the loaded tank with water for 1 minute- gets the tank up to temperature and hydrates the negative ready for developer. Measure the temperature before pouring out to ensure 20 degrees. 2. I use the Patterson tank but replaced the reels which are awful with Omega Reels from B+H. Much easier to load- wider feed lugs. 3. Final Rinse - Distilled Water, 1-2 drops of Photo-Flo( 3ml too much - get watermarks) per 600ml PLUS 10ml of Isopropyl Alcohol. NEVER squeege the negative with fingers or anything. Just shake the reel with film vigorously to get rid of most of the water before hanging.The Isopropyl Alcohol will ensure the negative dries quicker with no residue and this avoids dust settling on the negatives while drying- the biggest problem with home developing. FYI I Scan with Epson V800 which comes with Silverfast Software - Gives excellent control over contrast and highlights at the scanning stage. Cheers!

@randallstewart175

Жыл бұрын

(1) Pre-rinse if you need to warm the tank and film to processing temp. Otherwise, skip it, as it has no other value. Overall, wet time is not your friend, so reduce where possible. (2) The replacement reels are AP brand, or as re-branded by B&H, Freestyle, etc. Better yet, buy the AP tank and reels and spare yourself the expense and use of the worst tank and reels available. (3) Always!. The addition of alcohol is a neat but unnecessary trick. Overall, the video is just a repeat of dozen of the same on YT, carrying forward a variety of poor practices. Ilford offers a group of "how to" videos which are far better. As a general rule, avoid Paterson products where possible. They are basically cheap, plastic crap. This starter kit makes assembling a minimal equipment kit easy, but it is expensive for what you get and the items are the cheapest junk. Examples: Tank/reels - see above. Thermometer - a digital one for bathroom or kitchen works faster, is more accurate, and won't break, and costs the same or less. Graduated cylinders - I actually have one survivor in my darkroom. My others melted inside and clouded over "dead" when I mixed some color chemistry in them. You an find tempered glass ones for about the same price in a chemical supply house.

@boywithoutaparachute

Жыл бұрын

I do the pre-develop rinse too.

So cool to see this process and follow your journey! That Paterson starter kit looks perfect for getting started. I actually prefer the plastic reels to the steel ones. Cheers!

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

Thanks!! I'm hot and cold on the plastic ones but they seem to work so what can ya do!? :)

Hey, I re-started doing this one year ago after many decades. I do everything the same as this, same film, same developer, same process. It's a good base workflow, later you can modify it for pushing films and developing other films, other developers etc...

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

That’s the idea!! I can still push and use other developers under my plan though. Just sticking to same gear and film r for the next little bit… :)

One thing you can do for 35mm is 'pre-start' the film onto the reels. Clip off the leader as normal and, with the film still in the cannister, feed the film into the reel to just past where the ball bearings grab it. You can then put the reel with film/canister attached into the changing bag. Once all set up, then feed the film onto the reel. When you get to the end, take a pair of scissors (already in the bag...lol) and cut the film just at the part it exits the canister. This may not work if you try and maximize the frames taken on a roll by only doing one 'wind' of the lever, as then an exposed image may be too close to the front of the roll and get exposed when trying to pre-thread the Patterson reels. Current fave combo is Kodak DoubleX shot at 400 or 1600, dev with HC-110.

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Tim! That's a good tip but I always worry about scratching the negs if I drag the film over the felt too many times. It's basically how they do it at most labs though so should be an issue. Send us a link to some Plus-X shot at 400. Would love to see the results you're getting!!

nice video, develop color is not a big difference, you just have to control the temperature much more, not a big deal. By the way, one degree temperature more or less is a half aperture difference. My personal favorite developer is X-tol 1:1. The developer has a long durability, is perfect sharp and has a good contrast.

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

X-Tol is an excellent developer. I just went with what I knew for D-76 :)

Fingers crossed for your one camera/lens/film/developer project! From a perspective, the hardest thing once you get hooked on film photography is to keep that “one” in your motto 😂 P.S. that yellow filter tells straight away that you’re an OG film shooter man!

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

Shhh! The yellow filter is my SECRET WEAPON!! LOL! If you want to see how the project is coming the pics are on my instagram @thekarledwards. :)

Thanks! Nowwww if only there was a way to use less water for this process. Hmm

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

That, I can't help you with. LOL!

@tofulosophy

Жыл бұрын

My thoughts as well.

I am waiting for your scanning method.Thank you.

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment, Nick! Starting with camera scanning... Should have the first results today... Video coming soon!

Thanks so far (I all knew that 30 years ago, now restarting!) --- For stop bath I take vinegar acid, about 2% to 4%. --- as for wetting agent I just take dishwasher solution or liquid soap. --- That way you only need to buy two different chemicals. The other things are already in house.

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

Yup! That also works!! :)

This is great! But you should limit your caffeine or meth intake, LOL! It's been 25 years since I developed my own film and I just set up my dark room last week. Thanks for this lesson!! Good job

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

Ha ha! I just talk fast... You should hear me tell someone my phone number... It's basically a high pitched whine at this point. LOL!

I've watched tons of these "developing your negativea at home" videos and one thing I wish someone would discuss is where and how they store their chemicals when they are not using them. Also what part of your house do you use for developing Karl? Or do you have a seperate dark room for all your analog photography proceasing?

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

There’s no secret to storing chemicals. As I said in the video I have several 1 gallon jugs that I keep everything in. Jugs are stored under the counter in the kitchen. Once chemicals are mixed they do have a shorter life but as long as you’re actually shooting and processing film on a regular basis that’s not something you really need to worry about. It’s not so much an omission in videos that talk about processing film. Just not that big of a concern so it rarely comes up. No darkroom for me. Film is loaded in a changing bag (mentioned in video) and I typically do the processing on the kitchen counter.

@boywithoutaparachute

Жыл бұрын

@@karledwards I guess if I could ask one more question it would be what do you do with your chemicals once they're exhausted?

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

@@boywithoutaparachute You'll need to check with your local authorities to see the correct way to dispose of them. A lot of folks just dump them down the drain but definitely check first to be safe.

Dev HP-5 with Ilford HC110 at 20 degC 7% dilution for 3.5 minutes. Instead of the Patterson reels I use the Jobo reels which have a larger film insert, otherwise same method loading but easier. After fotoflow I squeegee excess water from the surface of the negs with two fingers or a rubber squeegee before hanging to reduce potential water spots. Scan with an Epson 850 with Silverfast HDR Studio for archiving the files.

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Fabrizio! Squeegee with wet fingers works great - that's what I used to do way back when I was in school. How do you like the 850 for scanning? The negs in the video were scanned on a friend's Epson 750 and I just picked up a 600 to try and stay on budget. It will arrive later today...

@DozierGraphic

Жыл бұрын

@@karledwards Squeegee is worst thing you can do. Totally defeats the purpose of photoflo. Try it once with no squeegee and you'll see your negs are a little 'thicker' as the photoflo is suppose to saturate the film. If you squeegee, you're actually wiping away all the photoflo and can lead to streaking. also, 3.5 minutes is very unadvisable as it doesn't allow the film to develop properly. Not that you can't do it, but your results will be better if you go with Dil H and 6 minutes. Again, you can squeegee and you can develop at 3.5 minutes, but I've found the difference is noticeable if you do your own test. Not to mention if you google 9 out of 10 times will say don't develop less than 5 minutes and don't use squeegee. But the fun of the 'craft' is to be you, so again, of course you can do it anyway you want, as long as YOU enjoy the results.

Do you reuse the fixer? I recall doing this back when I took photo classes. And I recall being told one shouldn't pour fixer down the drain. Am i recalling this correctly?

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

You can reuse fixer if you like but I always treat it as single use. There's even hypocheck drops you can add to let you know when it's expired. Best to check your local regs for waste disposal to see if it's okay to pour used fixer down your sink.

I’m new to developing as well after buying a leica. I noticed you invert the tank during development. Have you tried using the supplied “stick* to stir instead ?

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

Ya, I'm an old school kind of guy. Learned to process with stainless reels and tanks so the inversion method is just a carry-over for me. Whatever works at the end of the day though!

@baladino

Жыл бұрын

@@karledwards hi Karl, there are many myths and preferences related to film development which sometimes get in the way of facts. I’ve noticed 2 things during my personal experience. Using the stick rather than inversion has led to less grain on the negatives compared to vigorous inversions. Especially more so for fine grain films like Ilford Delta 100 and FP4+. Try it out and see. Presoaking doesn’t seem a good idea as it sounds. Presoaked film strip absorb less developer. Thank you for your replies.

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

@@baladino I actually don’t do any kind of vigorous agitation though. Slow and gentle all the way! You can check out some of my shots on my Instagram @thekarledwards :)

@baladino

Жыл бұрын

@@karledwards hi Karl I don’t mean to preach to the choir. I’m sure you know your stuff. Hope you have more film related content on your channel. Take care

@karledwards

Жыл бұрын

@@baladino Not at all! There's 50 ways to skin a cat, as they say! :) Just remember, it's the "amount" of agitation that affects film grain and contrast in developing. Doesn't really matter if that's delivered by twisting or inversion. It's really about control and being able to do the same thing the same way every time you process. That way you can easily adjust any one factor to change your results.

This video is sponsored by your local drinking water utility company... I guess?