Mom: “Ah, my son’s cleaning his room today. Music to my ears!” Son: Running a Tesla M40 to play Minecraft while also fooling his mom. Big 4Head moment.

@spykillergames8402

2 жыл бұрын

XD just needs a nice custom pcb made up to sense heatsink temps and then switch the fan wire on/off

as others mentioned, that 80/92mm fan shroud really can't be that short. you definitely need to at least angle it so that the fans blow at least somewhat towards the card, instead of at a wall of plastic 1 inch away

Maybe a Pair of those 40mm Noctua fans side by side(parallel) at closer to 12VDC? Trouble I see with that 92mm fan adapter is the fan is blowing against a straight wall and the air has to make a hard right angle turn. Another adapter with the fan at a 45 degree might work better, but the card would become a triple slot card. On the other hand the THICC 'fan duct' would be in the front of the case. Another thought, a fan duct directly to the front case fan(s) with some well spec'd out high static pressure 120mm.

@WillFuI

2 жыл бұрын

That’s exactly what I was thinking

@johnmacfell947

2 жыл бұрын

exactly what I was thinking too. my server runs 8 fans, all side by side, not one after the other

@chrisbaker8533

2 жыл бұрын

@@johnmacfell947 Just depends on the particular server. I've got various servers that do the "dual" fan system. Usually 1u's but you'll find them on larger models as well. Might be single housing, or two separate fans.

@stefanl5183

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah, this is what he should have tried. Also he could have tried the 2 40mm servers fans in parallel. For fans to work well in series they must be designed as such. Servers often times use such fans but they are designed to run that way and often have counter rotating blades to reduce turbulence and thus reduce noise and improve efficiency. Another idea would be to 3d print somekind of attachment to go on the outside of the backplate and have a fan to suck out of the case through the heatsink. Something like the 80mm adapter he had might work better there helping to pull air through the heatsink. It's pretty obvious to me that the failure of that adapter and all the "blow back" as he referred to it, was a result of the too sharp 90 degree bend the air had to make was probably causing much of the resistance. High speed airflow doesn't like to make sharp turns like that.

@efanchen2440

2 жыл бұрын

maybe the 92mm fan would had a chance if the shroud would hold it at an angle. So the airflow next to the card wouldn't interfere with the air from the other side of the fan. At the moment the whole momentum of the air is wasted.

Jeff: "When my desk is this messy to start a video, you know it's gonna be fun." Me: "Wait......you guys have clean desks?"

@JediAcolyte

2 жыл бұрын

What is this 'clean desk' you speak of?

@maynardcrow6447

2 жыл бұрын

I have active servers stacked on each other on desks with parts stack on them. Don't get me started on floor space.

@nadtz

2 жыл бұрын

Haha, no. I always clean it up before I take any kind of pictures that involve my desk(s). Hell I have a 1u server living on one at the moment cause I'm too lazy to track down a small rack for it.

@jeffreyhill1011

2 жыл бұрын

@@nadtz I have all my AV stuff rack mounted with a custom 3U size media PC I also racked. I made my own racks but I'm not sure what your fabrication skills are but it's not terribly difficult. But I just noticed you said you are too lazy to even bother racking it so am I correct in assuming DIY may be out of the question 😂

@nadtz

2 жыл бұрын

@@jeffreyhill1011 Nah I'm not really that lazy, just taking my time figuring out what I want to go with partially because I intend on at least 1 or 2 more servers and don't want to buy/build something that is going to end up too small and have to do the whole thing over again later. I'll probably sort it after I get a server to backup my NAS.

What about changing the 80mm mount so that it blows air straight through the card rather than a 90 degree turn?

@mj1s735

2 жыл бұрын

I was thinking the same thing. The fan is fighting to push air through the adapter first, than the GPU heat sinks. The other fans were more straight on to the GPU.

@hammyboigaming904

2 жыл бұрын

I bought one of these, it came with a delta fan. Sadly the Tesla K80 GPU I bought to use with it arrived DOA and kept tripping short circuit protection.

@ghomerhust

2 жыл бұрын

that particular 92mm fan wouldnt work, even at an angle vs the 90 degrees, because it's an airflow fan, not a static pressure fan. but, like he said, it's hard to find those smaller ones in any sort of quality these days

@eduardorivas363

2 жыл бұрын

Adding 45 degree fins closest to the fan should change the flow enough to increase pressure through the heat sink. Reprint the bracket to have a few millimeters of neck at the fan with fins and add fins at the bottom to flow the air to the card should decrease turbulence that static pressure should increase at the entry neck of the card.

@Leoappeared

2 жыл бұрын

@@ghomerhust the arctic p8 is pretty great and cheap

I’m curious.. would running the two 40mm fans side by side work, with a shroud reprint?

@ghomerhust

2 жыл бұрын

if they have enough static pressure plus CFM, yes

@auroran0

2 жыл бұрын

I was just about to make the same comment.

@12Mantis

2 жыл бұрын

I was thinking of the same thing, perhaps with a shroud that has a separate mount for each fan attaching to air channels/pipes that merge where it meets the graphics card (like a *V* shape)?

@CarlCoxx77

2 жыл бұрын

great idea

@greenprotag

2 жыл бұрын

I second this. I suspect 2x Noctua4x20 fans at max stock voltage might be enough...

The 3D printed parts look amazing and like OEM accessories. Is so cool to see what we can do today in our homes.

I went with an old CPU waterblock with a modified bracket fed by a pond fountain pump in a bucket, fairly cheap and very effective. My Tesla M40 is running at 1431Mhz core and 2008Mhz on the memory (8034Mhz effective) Core temp is 43 degrees C. power limit was raised, uses about 250W. Thanks again for the awesome content!

If you get a low profile card such as a Tesla P4/T4 cooling them is really easy: 1) Super-glue a 40x50x10mm 5v blower to the inboard end of your fan, taking care not to use any more glue than necessary. 2) Look for a nearby USB (2.0) header on your motherboard, you're going to plug the fan in to that! 3) Pull the +ve (red) and -ve (black) wires out of the plastic shroud and plug them directly in to the +5v and GND pins on the header - done! The blower will give plenty of airflow through the card, exhausting out of the back of your computer, doesn't add much to the length, and isn't too loud IMO - just remember to take note of the best orientation for the blower's intake in your system, and as the fan power won't be shrouded do be sure there are no shorts as well as doble-checking you connected to the correct pins! No need for a 3D printed adaptor or more janky connection to the card - at the time of writing you can pick up a P4 for under 100 quid on fleaBay.

"ahh nothing but 3d-printer sounds" my memory screams in squiick, swik, squiick, swik - classic A4988 - so much more happy with the tmc 220x forgot if 8 or 9

Nice overview of different options. It's helping me a lot as I start looking into a better solution that what I started with.

Can you PLEASE test and see if a artic extreme III or iv will fit on a single gpu Tesla. I've tried looking it up but everyone says in theory it should fit but no confirmation.

Many chuckles.. Awesome video. Thanks heaps for your time. Keeping me entertained during lockdown

I found a post that says a kraken g12 "universal" AIO graphics card cooler, will fit that. I have a K40 im gonna try out this week, I hope it works...fingers crossed!

@b0ne91

2 жыл бұрын

THis and the Rajintek Morpheus II both work flawlessly.

@efahrenholz

2 жыл бұрын

I have a K40 but I wasn't able to get graphics rendering on it properly. It's in compute mode and I don't know if it's possible to use it otherwise.

@b0ne91

2 жыл бұрын

@@efahrenholz nvidia-smi --gom=0 will set it to WDDM mode

@CraftComputing

2 жыл бұрын

@Erich Check out my latest video. It should get you what you need.

@twitchyg1373

2 жыл бұрын

I wonder if an Artic Accelro will work? If it does it's a great cooler. Makes card thicc but works amazing. Strapped it to my 5700 that I reflashed to XT bios and it helping temps phenomenally

When I was running my two K80s, I designed and 3D printed an adapter that was using a Nidec UltraFlo fan, because they were the only ones available to me at the time, to cool both at the same time. That entices that they need to be on top of one another, but it worked. It was extremely noisy, but it worked, and I could run them stable under 70°C on each of the four GPU dies :)

Hey Jeff, on the topic of coffee, I would recommend upgrading to a bur grinder as you will get a better grind profile than what you can get with a blade grinder.

You should have removed the shroud and put the fans directly on top of the bare heatsink. Alternatively, Arctic and Raijintek both make fantastic universal VGA coolers rated for up to 400w.

I would like to see 2 other variations testet 2x40mm parallel and the 92mm at an angle (45 or 90 rotated) this poor fan is blowing straight in a wall. Really really great video, love it.

Someone else beat me to the punch, but i feel like 2 or even 3 40mm Noctuas side by side (as opposed to stacked with tape like your other 40mm fans) would be an interesting thing to test and might yield better results for the noise

@raycert07

2 жыл бұрын

Only 2 would fit. Also they are quite whiney

Great video! This level of nerdy makes me smile. Thank you.

@Jim-qc4nb

2 жыл бұрын

I do think you should get the plastic cover off and top mount some fans... Maybe print some of your own cover designs... Could you make an adapter and put a different cooler on it? Or maybe adapt a laptop cooler?

More videos like this would be cool. I enjoyed every second! You could try custom cooling different components and then recording the results.

You can significantly compensate for a lack of static pressure by adding an exhaust fan. It may help in the case of the 20x4 Noctua.

Great video as always Jeff, enjoyed this diy content a lot! One thing though, why not try two 40mm noctua fans in parallel (oppose to the series configuration you had with the 40mm blower fan)?

@markdjdeenix6846

2 жыл бұрын

Yes I think it will work and maybe not over voltage

@markdjdeenix6846

2 жыл бұрын

You need to make the throat of the adapter you designed as wide as possible

Hi Jeff. Great Video, great Beer :) My way of dealing with the speeds: I use Fancontrol or Speedfan to adjust the fans while running in windows, depending on the temperature. Works quite well and as long as the FAN Controller on the motherboard is able to keep up with the amps, you don´t need any hardware adapter (still loving your little USB Step Up converter thingy, though..) BTW: Many of the DC Delta 40mm Fans pulled from servers also draw around 3A current :) DC Fans: Some Bioses offer to switch from PWM to DC Mode for Fans like the Delta server ones.. A friend printed the same 40mm shroud and I also tested one of the Server Delta 40mm fans, pulled from a Server, just as you did. After setting the motherboard Fan control to DC instead of PWM, I was able to get decent noise levels in most usecases - with constant 100% load, around 40% of the fan speed is very noticable, but keeps the card cool enough to not throttle. I imagine it would be too loud for your taste, though :) Adding two fans on top of each other should increase the ability to built up pressure, while two in parallel should double the air flow. I wanted to modify the 40mm adpater with the wird bend into one with two 4mm fans attached, but my skills in 3D Modeling arent up to the task at the moment. As many others already mentioned, I beleive this should work well with two medium powered 40mm fans attached to it (which can be bought for 2 to 3 bucks in most cases and can run of the standard pwm connectors of a motherboard).. Would be cool if the bend somehow is straightened out in order to fit two cards side by side :) If the pressure of cheap fans isn`t enough, we could stack two on top of each other - with 4 fans (2ser/2par) this should still not too noisy and not too much amps while moving enough air... Anybody up for the task of re-modeling the adapter ? Than there is the topic of using cooling solutions from other cards. Since the M40 PCB should have the same mounting holes and positions from RAM and GPU as the 980ti and Titan X Maxwell 2.0 - water blocks as well as salvaged 980ti coolers actually should fit on the card. Haven`t tried it myslef, but have seen pictures in forums of people doing it this way...

What I've seen is 2 40mm right next to each other in a shroud. But what I've had the most success with was getting a 80mm or 92mm Delta PWM fan (in particular, the AFB0812SH) and printing the K40 80m/92mm fan shroud from Thingiverse that goes to the bottom of the card and blows straight through it. Isn't very loud and very manageable temps.

Great video, thanks for another one. I would remove the plastic cover of the heatsink and screw 2 x 80 mm fans side by side on it.

Did you consider reversing the fan so that it draws air through the card from the rear and exhausts into the case?

Interesting video! Two ideas: a) remove the card's chassis and attach a pair of 80mm directly on the heatsking (the card will occupy 3-4 slots tho); b) 3d-sculpt a rear adapter with a "T" 90 degress 80mm-fan placement instead of a parallel one =

Something I've been wondering about for a long time, is using a blower, like a centrifugal compressor, positioned outdoors, to supply a computer with air via an air duct. You would need to have a generous roof on the intake, and a pretty high surface area mesh+filter system. And maybe a really low power fan outside, acting mostly as a deterrent to insect nests. (It just needs to move around, really; not move air. It would be more of a scraper than a fan.) I figure that with a system like this, you'd have all or most of your noise outside. You would probably do well to still have some active air cooling in the PC case on specific parts, but I think an outdoors blower would at least allow you to remove case fans. You could even include a diverter and vent in an exhaust duct, and choose whether to pump the hot air into the building, or dump it back outside. The drawbacks I can think of, would be cost, potentially needing to alter the building significantly, maybe power usage, making the PC even more immobile than a Desktop usually is, and requiring some assorted minor engineering skills. The ducting, filtration materials, and blower would cost some money, unless you already have those. Needing to alter the building would depend on placement and type of windows, because you could conceivably install it similar to a window unit air conditioner, or portable air conditioner. Otherwise, you'd need to cut a hole in the wall, unless you conveniently already have one. As for power usage ... I don't know how a medium size centrifugal compressor or centrifugal fan would compare to all the case fans in a computer. But I imagine the air ducting and filtration would add some air resistance to the system that would need to be overcome, which the case fans wouldn't need to deal with. And truthfully, I don't know how much the walls of a house would block the noise, or if the air ducting would just guide the noise into you house, into the PC anyway. So... Not really sure who'd want this kind of system. But there are a lot of people out there, so maybe someone would.

I've never taken one of those cards apart, but would it be possible to remove the original heatsink shroud leaving the heatsink exposed and 3D print a mount for 90mm fans so they would blow directly on the heatsink?

You might want to make a shroud that converts 120mm fans into a stack of those GPUs, the 90 degree bend so close to the shroud is what's causing air churn. If you line them up so the fans are vertical and the gpu's are perpendicular with a 3D printed shroud, you can get some good airflow.

The delta blower reminds me of the old optiplex GX280's we had in school that when they died they would show an amber light and the fan would spin up and sound like a jet taking off. They were blower style coolers as well.

Redoing the thermal paste and also the thermal pads greatly reduced my m40 temps. I tested on two different cards that were from different sources.

Air-cooling tinkering with fans is always interesting. Thanks for the video.

Could you duct air from the one of the front case fans to the card? a 120/140mm fan would push more air with less noise (cheap demo would be get some cardboard and jerry up a shroud

Great video man, I was thinking what if you remove the GPU shroud and attach 2 noctua fans like a normal gpu to the heatsink with zip ties?, And with the last design it probably can be better with a little incline like a 45° angle 🤔

@raycert07

2 жыл бұрын

The heatsink isn't designed like that. It's ducted. The top isn't open. What you see from the window on the tesla is what you are getting. A direct airflow design is much better than just blowing it around into your case.

@cavegamer5989

2 жыл бұрын

@@raycert07 you can remove the plastic window with a razor. then the heatsink is exposed. Im going to try it.

@raycert07

2 жыл бұрын

@@cavegamer5989 that's not how that works. The window is part of the shroud, it can be removed. Removing the shroud does NOT EXPOSE A HEATSINK! ITS A CLOSED TOP HEATSINK. You can't put a fan on top of that you idiot. That plastic window is like 1mm thick. It's for airflow direction. You need to think.

I'm wondering what the temps are if you were using liquid or if there is even a liquid bracket for it.

The problem with the last one is that it's not a funnel, it's a quirrel-cage fan without with the fan not only not inside the housing, but also without a back plate to cover sides so the exhaust isn't mostly the intake. You could try to 3D print the same angled fan funnel you had for the tiny fans, but use one of the bigger fans in it. If you can't 3D print it, you can probably assemble it with some wood or metal and some glue or screw or nuts-and-bolts. The shroud is perpendicular to the direction you want the air to go towards, and that wouldn't be much of a problem if you gave the air some time to accelerate and build momentum, but you don't do that. Ideally, you built or 3D-printed a funnel going as parallel to the direction you want to move the air towards, but even a 45 degree angel is very good, but the closer to perpendicular you get and the shorter the area you give the air time to build momentum is, the less efficient it will be at moving air. If you had the last fan, but removed the side housing and placed the fan physically inside the funnel, and added a back panel to cover at least a third of the blades on the exterior (the part achieving higher speeds in m/s or ft/s), it would have worked much better. But you might want to do that with that smaller fan which you didn't even try, rather than destroy the Noctua fan.

The ticket is a PWM fan controller with software that can read the GPU temp. Also lift the 12v line from the fan plug and run it directly from the power supply. Back in the day I did this with a corsair h100i and a 295x2. Also I bet a evga hybrid cooler would fit on that.

Heads up that PLA is only recommended for about 40C with sustained usage. Especially in a semi-demanding application like this, you can easily get softening around the screw mounts that causes the shroud to stop fitting or just fall off.

how would it go in a high airflow case packed with fans for inflow and the card as the only point for exhaust, sorta indirect active cooling lol

Love this kinda videos. Great stuff for a morning caffe. :)

You could make a duct from the lower case intake to an adapter. That should get lots of volume, though not sure about the static pressure.

The 2 switch fans might have worked if they were mounted side be side, also you could try putting 1 on the front AND 1 on the back of the card for a push-pull affect, either way thx so much for the video 👍

Great episode. I use 2x 140mm industrial ppc fans for high static pressure and cfm. They get loud when rendering but acceptable sound with low stress computing and gaming. I just added a 92mm delta for exhaust and it gets louder than those at full load but helps a lot better than the default fan it replaced. High cfm and static pressure always at the cost of noise. Not that it needs to be tested, but It would be interesting to see what a high static pressure 60 or 80mm noctua fans would do at up to 24v since the 40 did just acceptable with. Maybe the 60 or 80 would be slightly better than the 40? I grew up running delta tornado fans 24x7 on my overclocked athlonXP's. Was hard to sleep because of the noise and always warm. Just running stock gpu but always wanted to remove the branded fan's and strap 2x 120mm ippc fans to the heatsink.

Props for the HotJo DS9 mug in the coffee ad. ;)

The problem with that 80 mm adapter you printed is the sharp 90 degree bend the airflow has to make. That's why you were getting so much blow back thru the fan. A larger and longer adapter where the airflow has a longer turning radius might perform much better.

I had a vantech tornado in college. That sucker was loud but it moved air. I would make sure you use a static pressure fan instead of a case fan.

i saw a post where someone took the clear plastic shroud off the card so the heatsink was exposed and they added three 120mm noctua's and it stayed at around 75c under full load. thinking of trying it with mine.

this was so interesting. great video!

going to try this with an a40 over the next week or so, do you think that this would still be a good way to cool the gpu?

I feel like taking the shroud off and strapping a pair of the noctua redux 92mm fans to it is the way to go if the top of the heatsink isnt bent over like a lot of server heatsinks

Nice vid man!

What about turning the 80/90 9mm fan around and using it to draw are through the gpu instead of pushing it? Would it possibly work doing that?

i'm curious.. but did ya try to invert the 92 mm fan so it suck in air trough the card ? Also i think you might want to add a square tube to give the fan some extra room as some fans needs some breeding room to fully work. not to mention the air have to do a 90 degree turn in a shroud that will also add some flow impediment, if space is an issue might i suggest a 45 degree turn ?

I disassembled the M40 and I could see that it has the whole circuit to place a fan connector. I also have a GTX 780TI burned and in fact the PCB looks a lot like the M40, it is more, it even has indicated the components of the fan controller just like the Tesla I'm going to try to modify the Cooler of the M40 and mount 2 fans of 80mm and see what comes out of this

Can you take the oem shroud off of the card and mount two 92mm fans on the heatsink like a desktop card?

Is it possible to remove the plastic shroud on the card and have two or three fans blowing air down on the card like a regular gaming GPU?

What is the model number of the delta dc blower fan you were testing? The one that worked but was way too loud.

Hey? I plan on strapping two fans on top of the m40, the heatsink doesn't look like it has any vents and just looks solid, would this work out? They are static fans

hey Im curious if you can do stuff with it like putting a cpu cooler by using a adapter wonder if that works

Can you show a downdraft method on heatsink with the shroud removed?

How did you connect the P40 to the PSU? Isn't the cable too short? Also, are you using both cables or does one dangle freely?

I’d love to see a follow up with two 40mm noctua fans in parallel (not series like you did in this test), plus an 80/90mm but with a redesigned shroud that stops the air having to turn 90% even if it uses up more slots having the fan in line with the card it would probably be fine for a lot of cases, since you’re not going to run multiple of these cards next to eachother

@NoidoDev

Жыл бұрын

Yes, this.

Can you do a video on using an NZXT kraken G12 to cool the m40? It has the same mounting as the 980ti. With longer nylon screws or w/some modifying of the midplate/3d printing a custom one you could keep the backplate on and remove the front shrowd. Use some of those short adhesive heatsinks and the Kraken's fan should keep the front vrms cool enough. It's what we're going to try next as the bloweymatron is far too loud. Just waiting on parts.

What if you taped 120mm fans to the heatsink, emulating a standard GPU cooler?

hello nice video! this card is compatible with intel core i5 10400 2.90ghz processor (integrated intel UHD graphics 630 card)? you recommend it for the gaming?

The noise reminds of of those 10k SCSI drives :) sounded like a jet taking off

still wondering of running 2 noctuas side by side would work even if u have to overvolt them a bit

What about 2 40mm side by side rather then stacking them?

Could try a quiet Papst blower, they have the most modern stuff but they're hard to get OEM parts.

Need to turn the 92mm fan 90 degrees to blow directly through the card. I used to do HVAC, and the amount of static pressure required to make a 90 degree turn like that is huge, and it gets harder the closer the 90 degree turn is to the fan. Considering the fan is only millimeters away from the 90 with no radius, that fan is just ineffectual. Also could try making the turn into a radius (curve) but if you have to design a new shroud, should just do it right from the beginning, and turn the fan 90 degrees.

Hay dumb question? Has anyone just "borrowed" a cooler from the gtx titan x to put on the tesla card, or used a water cooling setup for the titan x that might also work for the tesla? same pcb pattern right?

is there a particular motherboard spec that needs to be used with these server gpus?

Do you think one of those arctic accelero coolers would be a worthwhile choice here? Would it even fit or work?

I use the noctua low noise adapters for situations like these, but with a 4 pin pwm blower - they're not too pricey, though definitely more expensive than the basic server fans you can get so cheaply second-hand. The low noise adapters are "free" for me here - I virtually never use them with the noctua fans, as they're typically already more than adequately quiet, leaving me with a pile of Y and low noise adapters. I've only done this twice that I can remember (for friends/families hardware), but as far as I know, both systems are still chugging along. I think the fans were something like 25 bucks each, not terrible at all!

Hi please can help me! i 'm tryng to cool a M40 by 2Noctua 40x20 but it ' s still abot 95 dregree temp, wich type of voltage regolator can i use? how can i connetc to 3 pin noctua fan? many thnaks, i follwed you headless proxmox tutorial and that works fine!!

I have this same dirty desk conundrum, but usually its IPA and Sour beer which seem to be in my way.

I may have a better solution for cooling, removing the shroud on the card and adding 2 120mm fans with zip ties, deshrouding almost always results in better cooling, and because the fans would be off the shelf 120mm static pressure fans, it would still be silent. Linus made a video about it a few years ago with great results, and for some ITX enthusiasts it's a must-do. And while i've never deshrouded, I have replaced the cooler entirely on my reference vega 64 with a raijintek morpheus II with 2 arctic p12 pwm's (which would be a better option for those who don't mind their graphics card taking up 4 slots, though deshrouding should only use 2.5 or 3), and my temperatures dropped 30 degrees Celsius (without throttling, which the card did do with the reference cooler), and my card went silent instead of sounding like an air conditioner.

So I've recently purchased a Tesla m40 for myself and while shopping around for a blower fan to stick on the 3D printed adapter, I found that Delta makes a PWM version of this. So I think I'm spending the extra to see if I can use PWM control instead of just DC voltage control to slow the fan down

I'm curious, how are you going to select wich alien you want to be?

what if you transversely mounted the fan's marzelvane? This might help reduce side-fumbling of the fan shroud.

How about creating a duct from one of the front case fans to the GPU?

Could you 3D print a shroud casing for the card like a regular graphics card?

Would it help to not have it as a right angle, and more slopped and maybe make the spot for the 80mm to be a bit wider

Ok, I gotta ask - could you print a shroud that accepts 2 of the 40mm Noctua fans? It should have more airflow than a single 40mm Noctua running at double voltage.

Ehhh, with that bracket and fan it would be too long for my case. How much positive pressure would it take? Could suck air out the back end with a big tumor coming out of the case lol

Which is easier, push air through a hole or pull? Switch the air direction and give it go.

I recently bought a K80 to experiment with for machine learning projects; however, when executing my code I get an error message that there is no cuda enable device detected (despite the motherboard seeing the k80). I'm wondering if this is somehow related to the OS used, as I am working on Ubuntu. Have you been able to successfully use the k80 within a Linux / Ubuntu environment? I first uninstalled all previous nvidia drivers then went to nvidia's website and downloaded the driver by selecting the model (k80) and the appropriate OS; however, this just has not been working.

I used an old 980 TI shroud to cool mine. Maybe an aftermarket GPU cooler can work as well?

Just wondering... what kind of tower pc that is. I will like to have 1 that is compatible with tesla k 80. Any specifics will be very much appreciated.

Im running two Tesla K20 in my Folding@Home rig. Each Tesla has a NF-A9x14 HS PWM screwed to the shroud with a hole cut in it. I run them at full speed.

Silly question, if i want to get one of those as an external gpu, any tips?

You made the coolest 3d printed bong EVER... where do you put the ice?

I'm a big fan of this testing.

I modified my p100 cooling fins. I milled the top off and milled breakthroughs in, then i was able to fit axial fans on it like on every other card. But i have another issue, i cant figure out why that thing has 30W idle power. Thats too much ...

Wouldnt it be more beneficial to remove the plastic shroud of the M40 and attach 2 fans on the side, directly on the heatsink, like tratitional modern graphics cards?

how well would it work to have multiple back-to-back cards share a single, larger fan? it seems like the shroud design could be a little more sensible but I'm not sure how well the airflow would work given that the ends of the cards would present just a Wall of static pressure requirement

While it wouldn't be a good permanent use, do you think reversing the fan and pulling air from the outside with the larger fan would make a difference in cooling?

Would it be able to fit a standart cooling solution from a 980Ti ?