Thanks again for this, I have a couple of loco's that will improve no end with one of these motors, I tried a CD motor in an older Lima Class 37 and it's excellent, I really appreciate the work you put in on these videos.

Another great repair with all the replacement parts it is as good as new

Well, that vintage Spamcan will be the most risk-free purchase on the internet. It was fascinating to see how you solved the shorting problem. Thanks for another excellent video.

400mA is in the region of some of the old Hornby-Dublo motors (especially under load): I am always amazed at how little current modern motors draw. I've seen ceramic capacitors develop shorts - I've been caught out by them in some amplifiers before now.

Hi Bill, another great video of a wonderful upgrade to this vintage model. New body and total update to the motor. Great work as always, have good Easter wishing you all best, Marc from Leighton Buzzard

Nice Job Bill 👍

I'll bet that the capacitor was damaged during the original meltdown incident and accounted for some of the 400 to 500 milliamps of the old motor. I would buy it if not for the shipping cost to get it to the states. Great video as usual, I wish everyone used the front vantage point for videoing repairs.

Great video as usual keep it up 😊

Nice work

Hi bill i bet if the supressior was shorting when you fitted to new motor perhaps it was the supressior on the old motor that was causing old motor to run lumpy

I have had one of those capacitors go short circuit on a brand new Hornby loco, so not usual. The only thing I might add, is that capacitor looks like a multilayer ceramic one used for 5 volt electronic circuits so it might be the wrong voltage type which would explain it failing.

that was another battle of Britain for you, Bill 😂😂😂 that mk1 Spitfire definitely went the battle now you fixed and upgraded the spitfire to mk IV it's a pearler lol great video

hi Bill, another great video for friday evening while playing with my Booster electric loco.

How timely, i had spitfire out running on my latest video. One of the best runners but yes to be honest a noisy one but i dont mind. After running for a while it did develop a bit of a rubbing somewhere so ill need to fix that at some point. I jusy found it amazing how it is one of thr best runners, considering its age and other newer models struggle.

Another one brought back back from the brink

Hi Bill. Can I ask you what you use in your sonic cleaner ? Tony.

Interesting about the suppressor. If you still have the blue one, be interesting to know if it acts as a short on a loco fitted with an X03/4. 🤔

Sometimes old wire can get an invisible layer of tarnish on it. This can only be shifted with an active flux like a plumbers flux. Unfortunately this unless thoroughly cleaned turns green and horrible.

@oobill

3 ай бұрын

Yup. I've encountered it often enough now to realise that all old wires should just be replaced as a matter of course.

Hi Bill ,, so where do I look in you page to buy this from you. Also do you sell to people overseas like to me here in Australia. I certainly dont mind paying the postage to here in oz as i have bought a lot of train bits for the UK for it is sometimes cheaper to buy from the UK than what it is to buy here in oz. Ok so you mentioned your coffee shop site somwhere on your page so where would that be ? I found a part on your page where lots of people buying you beers i mean its not exactly coffee but its close I suppose haha. I bought one of these exact locos from a local bloke here in newcastle that said he bought it in England and bought it here with him when he moved here. It was a goer but a really slow runner and on pull down i found the bearings had a choke hold as the grease or oil had dried up and were barely moving. All freed up and put back together and runs like a cracker. A heads up on the one you have for sale would be great. Cheers from John in Australia.

Another spam can saved 👍

Do you not use solder flux when soldering ?

@oobill

3 ай бұрын

Not for electrical soldering although the solder does have a flux core. I use flux if I need to solder two pieces of metal together though to help the solder get where it needs to.

@stuartburton1167

3 ай бұрын

The problem using active fluxes rather than passive fluxes like Rosin is the cleaning up afterwards. Unless every bit of active flux is removed it continues to work leaving you with a horrible green mess and dissolved metal and plastic. You can get waterbased no clean fluxes for printed circuit boards but they aren't cheap and tend to need a fair bit of heat to work properly. Best is flux core wire solder keep your iron tip spotless and get in and out quickly.

@andrewclegg6541

3 ай бұрын

I used to be a radio and tv engineer. Any new components fitted we scraped the parts legs and applied flux to let the solder flow better. I still use the old type lead solder which contains flux. I have not used the new type solder.@@stuartburton1167

Hi Bill, I have watched a lot of your videos and recently rewatched a good few of the ringfield videos, Hornby and Lima, as I want to service my Lima GWR King. I've been hoping you'd say what grit sandpaper you're using to smooth out the gears but you never do! Please can you enlighten me? Many thanks, Stuart.

@asleeds

3 ай бұрын

I use 600 grit wet and dry paper when doing my gears. Only apply very light pressure.

@stuart-bland

3 ай бұрын

@@asleeds Oh wow, a lower grit than I was anticipating. Do you utilise the wet nature? I've used wet/dry paper plenty of times, just never with model trains. It makes such sense though, the gears are noisy!

@oobill

3 ай бұрын

@@stuart-bland I use P2000 grit. You want it to be very fine grit.

@stuart-bland

3 ай бұрын

@@oobill Perfect, that's what I had in mind but thought I'd ask anyway. Thanks for letting me know.

Use the damaged body for scenery , have it rusted ready for srap