Find episode 2 here testing myths, used head bolts, and $$$ ARP 625 studs: kzread.info/dash/bejne/YpZmpJh6hd2_pNo.html

@th600mike3

2 жыл бұрын

See how much plastic deformation of the head after initial heat cycle actually happens. Athena says for example not to retorque. I know tuners and racers who have had the gasket fail if they didn’t retorque. And those cars are pretty serious. Also do one on the 3 step torque procedure, compared to one step. Another channel said 3 step like arp says reduces the clamp load. Also test arp’s at a higher initial preload. Their ratings are supposedly 75%. There is another head stud manufacturer in the diesel world. Loved seeing the pqy. Would love to see more options, just because ARP prices have only gone up, availability gone down. Personally I just re installed my heads with 1/2” standard arp studs at 129-130 each, on the whole shot. Surprised I didn’t strip the aluminum block 🤣

@morganspencer-churchill2136

2 жыл бұрын

Not a cylinder head bolt myth but I've heard that a bolt only needs 3 full threads turns engaged with a nut etc to exceed the tensile strength of the body of the bolt i.e. the bolt body will stretch before failure of the threads of the bolt or nut. Any chance you could test that?

@adamcostigan1043

2 жыл бұрын

Same test on a well used head bolt Do I need to send some?

@void2618_

2 жыл бұрын

Although I wouldn't say 24 hours is necessary, an hour or so is how long I wait when using copper head gaskets. The nuts will generally drop from around 90 ft. Lbs to around 75-80 ft. Lbs at the head of the fastener

@rafaelallenblock

2 жыл бұрын

Now you're all set to do a broken stud remover test.

RIP to all the indicators. Your service has not gone unnoticed.

@TorqueTestChannel

2 жыл бұрын

Let's all take a moment to appreciate their service

@andrewkennedy9704

2 жыл бұрын

@@TorqueTestChannel takes off hat and bows head.

@nwngunner

2 жыл бұрын

@@TorqueTestChannel I am thankful they were not mitutoyo's.

@TorqueTestChannel

2 жыл бұрын

@@nwngunner So is the channel's wallet :D

@nwngunner

2 жыл бұрын

@@TorqueTestChannel That's no joke.

This channel is quickly becoming the hardware test variant of Project Farm in the amount dedication and attention to detail, I love it. On behalf of all the subscribers, please Keep it up, and thank you. 👍 👍

I'm definitely curious about thread inserts (time-sert specifically considering they're advertised for engine repair).

@TorqueTestChannel

2 жыл бұрын

10-4. Working on it

@nobodynoone2500

2 жыл бұрын

A fan of the northstar I see! XD

@essentials1016

2 жыл бұрын

And Heli Coil too, please.

@Dan-wt7jx

2 жыл бұрын

Keenserts as well

@kjdude8765

2 жыл бұрын

@@TorqueTestChannel One last suggestion for an insert to test is the Fredsert insert.

Really cool test with off the shelf test equipment! At work (for a large diesel manufacturer), we've put in a lot of research to bolted joints and have some info that may be helpful here. The dial indicator was solid, in industry we grind the tops and bottoms of each bolt, and measure the stretch with an ultrasonic gauge (MC900), and correlate that to a tensile test to get actual preload. Bolt preload with a torque only torque procedure is typically accurate to +/- 30% using the same fastener design with the same threads and same coating... different coatings can influence the friction factor of the threads by typically 30-50% as well, which further compounds the error from a straight torque. different tensile diameters (like parts that have a waisted or turned down shank) will also vary the preload for the same thread size. In a straight torque joint, preload is directly proportional to the total friction coefficient times the torque applied, with the grip length (distance from the underhead surface of the bolt to the first engaged thread) being independent with no contribution. +/-30% is pretty excessive, so on more clamp load sensitive joints, we implement a torque+angle, non torque to yield (TTY). In these joints, about 1/3rd of the preload comes from the straight torque, with the resultant preload coming from the fixed displacement of the threads. This means that bolt friction only contributes to that 30% error to the first 1/3rd of preload. The difficult part of this though is that because it's a fixed displacement, the distance that displacement occurs over (the grip length) does matter. For the same angle of displacement, the shorter the grip length, the higher the preload in the bolt. This means that in this test, variation in the ram height, and moving from the thick block of aluminum to the thin block all affected the amount of stretch in the bolts when you used the torque+angle torque procedures called out by the manufacturers. If you need to control preload distribution tighter, that's where torque to yield (TTY) comes in. We can typically get to a +/-5% range with these fasteners, especially with yield sensing torque spindles. Again these torque+angle procedures are still sensitive to grip length, but because you're working in a different area of the stress/strain (or torque/angle) curve, they're a little less sensitive. Great work, and feel free to reach out with any bolt questions, especially as far as materials, coatings etc. go, and their effects on fastener absolute strength or fatigue strength... you've officially just scratched the surface!

@Flumphinator

2 жыл бұрын

This is fascinating to read, thanks for writing.

@nfrcomputers

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you for this in depth explanation. Amazing the amount of manufacturing and expertise that goes into something as ubiquitous as a bolt

@charlieromeo7663

2 жыл бұрын

@Peter Angles I work with many NASA engineers. What center are they from?

I can't believe the amount of work that goes into this channel. Such a great service to us gear heads and tool fanatics!

@randyruppel6727

2 жыл бұрын

Agreed

Would love to see helicoil inserts tested! Use them all the time at work to fix stripped out threads in 6061-T6 aluminum in automation equipment and always wondered if they're equal, worse or better than the original threads. Great work as always!

@TheAdatto

2 жыл бұрын

Should be stronger

@thrownchance

2 жыл бұрын

usually stronger. We've used them all the time for highly stressed threads holes when manufacturing newly designed parts.

@krazykyle393

2 жыл бұрын

I’ve seen timeserts blow out of ford modular engines with the plugs on them

@upon1772

2 жыл бұрын

@@thrownchance I generally assumed stronger, but never had the data to back it up, and by how much it was. Also generally never had problems with threads bigger than M6 or so in aluminum, its always been the small screws, particularly M2.5's and M3's or fine thread #4 and #6 series SAE screws from technicians over-tightening them.

@damiancorbeil304

2 жыл бұрын

Maybe even a helicoil vs a timesert

I had a head gasket blow on an 1.6L ecotec and I was in a pinch so I went down to my local nut and bolt supply and bought 17 12.9 grade bolts and two nuts. Used the two nuts and the 17th bolt in a vice to "measure" how much torque it took to snap the bolt. I believe it was like 370 ft lb. Set the torque wrench to 300 and one by one removed the old bolts from the head and reinstalled the 12.9's at 300 ftlb. I don't care what anyone says. It worked, I went from being 120 PSI down in two of four of the cylinders to being 185 on all cylinders. The car hasn't seen a lot of miles since because catalytic converter stolen but suffice it to say hardware store can save your ass sometimes.

@sideshow45

3 ай бұрын

I'm more surprised you didn't strip the threads out of the block than the gasket sealing. Lol

@peteness9550

3 ай бұрын

You could have just stopped after the word “ecotec”. No further need to continue.

These "For Science" videos are fantastic

Rivet nuts in varying sizes and materials would be interesting to see as well! As often as I use them to replace bolt and nut mounted equipment on bucket trucks, I have to say, they seem to hold up better when confronted by repeated operator errors 😂

@randyruppel6727

2 жыл бұрын

Like huck bolts? Or something else?

@xkungflux

2 жыл бұрын

@@randyruppel6727 it's basically a rivet without a center pin. In place of the pin is a threaded sleeve that crumples a bit to bulge inside of a blind hole and create the effect of a tapped hole.

@randyruppel6727

2 жыл бұрын

Ah yeah I'm familiar. Similar to what we call nut-serts.

@chuckschillingvideos

2 жыл бұрын

Rivnuts are handy, but they'll never have the gripping power of a threaded hole, so you have to be careful how much load you expect them to carry.

@blaqlabspodcast5816

5 ай бұрын

@@chuckschillingvideos in sheet metal up to .25 inch thick, I have always found that rivnuts are almost always stronger than threading the base material esp. when dealing with fine thread applications.

To save the dial-indicator you could rotate it 180c, and measure how much it's moving upwards. And ofc something which sticks out on the "cylinder head" to measure against. Then upon breaking, it would hopefully jump upwards away from the dial-indicator.

@UR_HR

2 жыл бұрын

exactly the same thought!

@BobWidlefish

Жыл бұрын

Fact-check: true. They listened to you for the next video. :)

Use a block that overhangs the hydraulic ram and set the indicator up on the underside of it. It will last much longer that way and still measure the bolt stretch.

Factory head bolts get reused on a lot of budget builds. Would love to see the same test on a used OEM bolt.

@snoofayy6150

3 ай бұрын

Lore is that stretched old OEM LS headbolts get stronger after a normal lifetime of heat cycles, that fella on KZread Driveway Engineer talked about it in one of his videos and there were limks to tests people did but I don't feel like digging for them lol

This video was right up my alley. I used to have all this in a class at school years ago, some mechanics also were explaining this to me, bo now seeing this video all became crystal clear. Next video I will watch is yours about bolt grades.

Your channel is pure gold! This was the most fascinating one yet. Nice to see where my money went when I used ARP on my last engine build. I'm super impressed!

I worked at a construction company and they changed the nut and bolt supplier. I was using 1/4 -20 bolts and I snapped 3 out of 12 off, and I was just snugging them up. They held the cutting wheel on a asphalt cutting that would be mounted on the front backhoe bucket. I said something to the other mechanics and they hadn't had any issues yet. I drilled out the brokens and the boss went to replace them. He thought I was over tightening them. Well he snapped 2 of them off and only had one hand on the ratchet and was just over what we considered snug. They were marked grade 8 however they were not even close to the older bolts that we found in the back of the bin. All in all it was good that it was cought before they started being used to bolt on fifth wheels on the trucks or for suspension work. Someone got to go through all of the NC and NF stuff and pick out all the new style nuts and bolts. I'm not sure how things ended up after they confronted the place about it.

@mfree80286

2 жыл бұрын

You probably got a lot that was surface treated incorrectly, overheated and made brittle.

@bagelsgarage

2 жыл бұрын

I've run into this using some OEM John Deere bolts brand new. Went to torque them to factory spec and they just stretched and broke. Swapped them out for same grade bolts out of our shop bolt bin and those worked perfectly. Always cautious of JD bolts now

@johnbelwell2461

4 ай бұрын

This situation goes on with a lot of things the last few years. They manufacture out of scrap metal to only make stuff up to code but their batches vary a lot, whereas old stuff exceeds the rate and are pure aloys of what is being used.

It's wild that this video pops up in my feed this morning, as I just received a set of head studs for my engine build and was doing lots of research into ARP2000, L19, and aged 625

I design and test head bolts like this for all of the major OEs. Uniformity of clamp load is by far the most important factor when attempting to seal a head gasket surface like this. Max clamp load sound sexy but that's not what generates long term reliable performance. TTY is your friend.

@Digr2108

2 жыл бұрын

What would be your recommendation then? I'm planning on rebuilding the DOHC 4.6L 4v in my 2004 SVT Cobra soon and will be running factory ported heads and custom cams.

@otm646

2 жыл бұрын

@@Digr2108 I'm not an engine builder, I'm a fastener guy. So the question I'm going to ask is Will factory style TTY head bolts survive in your application? If that's the case, and you're not me spitting out head gaskets, that's absolutely what I would run with. When you make the jump to studs it's a huge compromise on clamp load uniformity but you're doing race car things so you give up a lot to make that extra power. With a mild to medium non boosted build like that I would think the factory TTY head bolts would be just fine. Make sure everything is flat and true, I've seen guys struggle because they've got warped heads or a warped deck and they're upset at the fastener in the gasket.

@narmale

2 жыл бұрын

@@otm646 thats the whole deal between studs vs tty You get waaaay more clamping load with studs, but no clamping range in the working load range Its like a small rubber band vs a long one, both exert the same amount of force at full extension, but one is 3" long and one is 12" long So when you lose 12% on the long one, you still have plenty of clamping load, but the small one with a 12% loss of length will be damn near loose Tty would be fine if they would upsize the bolts one size

@jedpratte

2 жыл бұрын

@@Digr2108 I have been building big power 4cyl cars for many years. What most get wrong is surface finish. Most head gaskets require a specific RA or roughness average to seal correctly. Composites are great when surface finish is not perfect. From my experience a L19 or 625+ will usually take about all you throw at it, its the gasket and surface finish that lets you down. I have sense gone to play with O rings cut into the cylinder head and back with composite head gaskets. But i have used metal layer gaskets with L19's to well above 45psi. These are on cars with 10:1 compression 122CI and turbos in the 64mm-68mm range. I have also seen guys think torquing Studs to well above recommended is good idea but on Cast block with aluminum head i have found that to make it worse as it flex's the head more then help.

@otm646

2 жыл бұрын

@@narmale Studs or bolts are irrelevant. The property class of the material used is the only thing that matters given the same length. You can manufacture TTY studs, I've designed them. The issue you run into is when you're running 200 KSI materials is that you've traded so much ductility for that tensile performance you get an extraordinary narrow window between yield and fracture. In a factory property class head bolt you've got a relatively large zone between yield and fracture which allows for TTY to even exist and also gives you a much more uniform clamp load. When you're running studs that aren't supposed to be yielded it's very difficult to reach that uniform clamp load because of the slope rate you're at, fractions of a degree on your torque angle procedure influenced clamp load dramatically.

The ARP2000 bolts were suprizing. I've used them before being cheaper but not thought about using them on a really high powered job. Impressive

Really enjoy this. Something new, educational, and putting brands to their claims. 👍👍

i am glad i brought ARP head stud kit for my turbo subaru !

Thanks for making a video I suggested! I appreciate all your hard work!

@TorqueTestChannel

2 жыл бұрын

Appreciate you guys suggesting them!

Very good and educational video all the tests that I try to measure in my head now tested with accuracy. Appreciate your work and I’m very grateful for it.

Very informative!!! Great test!! That answers alot of questions for us car guys/engine abusers who wonder if saving a couple bucks at build time is really worth it in the long run!! Keep the content coming! GREAT JOB!!!!

Thanks for the video! I know you put a lot of effort into it. I have used all types of cylinder head bolts from ARP to knock off brands. I always wondered about the strength difference you guys helped answer that question. One note to others, it's very important on how you prepare your bolt. When adding lube, or Teflon sealer it can really change the pressure when torquing the bolt making it stretch beyond the desired limit. So, be sure to install your bolts as dry as possible and with clean threads. If you have to use Teflon sealer use it sparingly. Also ARP lube is the most consistent over regular oil, or other forms of grease. Thanks again!

Really fantastic tests guys. Loved this. Yes please on thread inserts.

Great idea for a video!! You guys deserve WAYYYYY more subs than you have currently!! Thanks for all the info you've given us

It looks like all the dial indicators were harmed in the making of this video. Thanks again for tickling the nerd bone

@TheAdatto

2 жыл бұрын

Duh. It was a joke.

Best video I've ever seen on cyl. head hardware. Bravo, full marks!

This is the answers to the questions I never had but should of asked, thank you sir for this awesome video

You guys are just crushing it with the great content, never stop.

You should 3D print ( or soft aluminium) a small flat bracket for the indicators, with a break away notch. You can use a screw in the rod with a 4-48 screw, and offset the indicator out of the "kill zone"

That was amazing, thank you!! And I'll just add the anecdotal information that I have the Cina grade Gen4 studs in a couple of my LSes and they're working great. Torqued with exact ARP instructions, making sure to have the bottom side of the washer and adjacent head surface very clean.

As a racing engine builder, the decision you talked about in the beginning of the video is a daily thing for me. I appreciate the work yall put into your videos!

Good video, thanks for doing it. You really helped me out about me selecting the bolts I'm going to use.

Why this channel doesn't have more member is way beyond me. Always good, scientifically accurate content. I'd take Torque Test Channel's opinion on a tool WAY before any review. Thank you for taking your time and money to answer questions a lot of us always wondered!

Dang TTC! Just when I think this channel is running out of material you guys hit a home run! I'm really into it. I'm definitely with the above comments about time-sert, I'd like to see how those perform. Great job as always and I'd like to see some more merch come out for your channel. The t-shirts are awesome ;) (hat's wound be awesome!)

Love it that you are car people. We are a special kind of breed.

Can you do a test where you torque the bolts to spec and then wait 24 hours and torque again to see if they move further (like they relaxed and loosened)? I saw a video one time where a guy would consistently get ~1/8th turn next day.

@brandonlittle6444

2 жыл бұрын

Agreed

You could do an extractor episode with all those broken bolts ya have now also.

Absolutely great information. The methodology of your testing seems to be a very real analog for real-world use

I think that this is a great advertisement for the $60 Chinesium PQY Racing Studs, especially targeted at those guys that attempt to re-use their OEM Head Bolts. Obviously not a replacement or even competitor for anything ARP, but priced and strength proven to be better than OEM. Great Info.

Brilliant, absolutely superb! This is such an important issue especially when assembling critical components, engine parts, or essential support fasteners. Thank you for this excellent presentation, on behalf of most apprentice and professional engineers, Ciao, L

Xotics are being used now in some LB7 Duramax racing applications, but many are still unsure about them. I would love to see them go head to head....pun intended

You did a great job with this. You may want to consider torquing to a given bolt stretch. Coatings, lubricants and variations in manufacture can have a significant effect on preload vs applied torque. Joint failure actually occurs once preload is exceeded at that point you basically have zero preload on the gasket. Normally these fasteners in this application would be fatigue tested with cyclic load applied to a preloaded Joint. Basically your higher strength bolts are installed at a higher preload to prevent Joint separation. Again good job it gets people thinking about what they are paying for.

You missed the most important bolt... The 'sloppy mechanics' special. A stock head bolt that has been heat cycled and forged for 300k miles.

Some starving child in africa could have eaten that dial indicator!!!11!!!!!!1!!!!

@nobodynoone2500

2 жыл бұрын

Tastes a few mm off.

very cool thanks ttc and yes thread inserts would be wicked cool

Always informative AND entertaining!

this was pretty awesome and honestly I use ARP bolts when building either stock or mild engines when I built my 12.5:1 compression Honda g23 I used arp studs and they were expensive and that was 5 years ago I can't imagine what they cost now but my 350 horsepower Ford 302 has ARP bolts and I've re-torqued them three times, three different sets of heads no problems whatsoever

What's most impressive to me is the fact that the cheapo amazon ones are actually pretty competent for someone going for ultra low budget upgrades. The only unknown would be the consistency of manufacturing.

@ericdalton704

2 жыл бұрын

Speaking from experience here. Had one of the cheap amazon/ ebay sold chinese ARP knock offs fail (they all seem the same with a different name on them). Torqued to ARP specs with a trusted torque wrench. The first head went fine halfway through the second one failed well short of fully tight. Buyer beware!

@toyorover1313

2 жыл бұрын

Yes not something I'm willing to take a gamble on considering how relatively cheap studs are. If on a budget just go with oe.

@mt1885

2 жыл бұрын

@@toyorover1313 Agree, OE if replacing as it is consistent and never had any issues like normal build.

@jesseison-bowman3964

Жыл бұрын

I got a set of Speed Pro brand cheapies on eBay for my LT1 SBC build. Looking forward to seeing how they do.

I love these kinds of scientific testing of products!

We had a customer use generic aftermarket studs in a mustang 5.0 coyote. We had it on the engine stand and literally shot a stud past my head 30 minutes after it was torqued down. It went up to the second level and through the back of a cabinet. We found it in the cabinet. Scary as hell. I can see easily when you calculate the estimated 100mph or faster flying passed your head.

@johncrankshaft2886

2 жыл бұрын

Last year while gathering everything for a cam swap/dod delete i came across this choice, given how i had already spent close to 1k in parts up to that point and how the 6.2 Chevy LS cost far more than ARP bolts the choice was obvious. There are things that can jeopardize a complete build when you choose to save a few dollars(literally), after that decision i went back and purchased BTR pushrods to avoid using the no-name rods i had purchased earlier.

Have to admit, didn't expect quite such results, well done and those dials may be at peace with their mission well done!

Never seen thread-lock on a head bolt. Great video thanks.

Excellent video! Thanks! Also, would love to see you test thread inserts.

I've not read 'all' the comments, so forgive me if it's a repeated suggestion, but you may be able to save a few pennies on indicators if you invert the indicator and indicate off of a tab that's affixed to the head of the fastener. Then when it lets go, it just takes off and the proboscis of the indicator just extends to its functional limit unharmed. How you affix the tab to the head of the screw is TBD . . . Quick epoxy, super glue, hot glue? I know to test oem button caps and dials we often "glue" tabs or shafts to them to get linear displacement numbers. Love the channel.

Glad to see always useful content here.👍

Would love to see this retested with bolts heated to simulate operating temperature of engine

Informative as always 👍👍 Hell yeah I'd be interested in seeing the Thread Inserts on a up coming video!

Thread inserts, also knackered stud removal tools!

I have arp2000 on mine, it's a 14 mil 12-point socket. I have 24 of them holding my head on and my turbos produce around 100 PSI at the manifold with wide open throttle

To save yourself on dial indicators, make a simple little one-to-one ratio pivot with a light spring pulling down on one side, put the sprung end on the top of the cylinder head, and then put the tip of the dial indicator on the other end so that the dial indicator is always reading down and then when there is failure the dial indicator will not receive an impact. And since the pivot is one to one it will still give you an accurate reading.

Omfg thank you I searched for a video like this a few months back and got mad no one had made a video yet but there’s been 100,000+ engines built with upgraded bolts and studs.

+1 for the thread inserts

Thread inserts would be an interesting video. My dad would always use HeliCoils and I never thought they could hold up to a good tapped thread, but in a pinch they always seemed to work, after that I was wondering about the theoretical max load of rivnuts.

@ferrumignis

2 жыл бұрын

A correctly installed helicoil is stronger than the original thread.

@EdwardManson

2 жыл бұрын

Helicoils are used a lot in aerospace.

I've done bolt tensile/stretch failure studies utilizing a jig and an instrumented press, the sound from even the small ones would make everyone in the area jump, wish I could have watched you guys running this in person

@Mastermindyoung14

2 жыл бұрын

I used to use an Instron for testing/breaki carbon fiber. We had an shop alarm that would go off before testing just to prepare people for the "BANG!"

At first i was bored by the end i learnt a lot :) , awesome work and effort

Love it! Pleasure as always !

Very impressive testing

Here's a good test for you, the LS crank bolt is debated as to whether it needs to be replaced after being used once, the manual shows it's a tty bolt but many people reuse it, would be really cool if you tested the stretch the stock bolt makes after being installed at the manuals torque specs 👍 great video

@novinnovations4026

Жыл бұрын

Imagine removing a TTY crank bolt and deciding to reuse it rather than spend the little amount for a replacement lol. Always replace a TTY bolt, even if people get away with reusing them why take that risk over a couple bucks? If you take out a used LS crank bolt and put it next to a new one, the stretch will be obvious! Safe than sorry

@Align700nitro

Жыл бұрын

@@novinnovations4026 I have people telling me by compaing a used TTY bolt with a new one there is no difference. People thought bolts are rubber band, they can simply see the strain.

@ptbelttactics

10 ай бұрын

​@@Align700nitrothat is a lie, I have a used LS3 Crankshaft bolt and a new one in my garage. The used one is thinner and the thread pitch is stretched out where the bolt yielded. It is obvious to the naked eye. Later I might make a short to show you the stretch.

Very awesome 👌🏻.. Thank you for your knowledge 💪🏽

Yes on the thread insert video, and interesting to see the differences in some of these looks like the Amazon ones need to change their ratings a bit.

dude this video is amazingly produced props to you

Yes, thread inserts please! And also do them in aluminum heads. And also compare them to welding the hole closed in an aluminum head and re tapping

A thread insert test would definitely be appreciated!

Oh that intro... thank you. I was expecting something along the lines of "the following is exceptionally dangerous, do not attempt".

For all but the most extreme Applications the Felpro seems like a very good bet as had lowest extension just prior to yield, the OEM bolt had nearly double the exentsion at the same tensile load, but would need to see at least a full set of each tested to see if there really is a consistent difference.

Another note worthy plus of studs over bolts is they put the tension on the nut instead of the threads in the block. Which in an aluminum block, the steel nut will handle much more than cast aluminum threads

This is no doubt one of the best and most useful videos I’ve ever seen regarding hardware. Great job fellas

Would love to see the same test with bolts that are 300°F

Man love this channel this is great.

Very informative video. Would like to see how the thread inserts hold up. Thanks for the videos.

Have always had great luck with ARP L19 studs. The set i run in my 4g63 held down 47psi from a 67mm turbo before stretching.

Dude !!! so helpful . thank you for an awesome test !!!

i like what you'all do. thanks!

New those l19 studs were a good suggestion

Thanks for recommending this channel, YT. Subscribed

Yes to the heli-coil and thread insert test

great test

I think a similar test of connecting rod bolts would be interesting. There are lots of opinions out there about what are the best. My theory is the difference is not necessarily material, it is that some bolt manufacturers use alternate thread profiles, e.g. UNJ instead of UNF. Would be cool to see real data. It was interesting to see all failures occurred within the treads, just where they should!

Very good video. I bought the Fel Pro set before watching this. I'd probably had bought the PQY if I'd had saw this before. If Chevy had just used an off the shelf thread and pitch we could just use socket head cap screws and they are typically 170 kpsi.

Nice testing !

Watched the vid, Liked and Subscribed. Good stuff. I always used ARP studs in my rebuilds. For me its about fully threading the stud and then applying the clamping force on the nut. Especially on Aluminum blocks.

Bad ass !!! Super informative video and yes we want to see this thread insert video !!

would LOVE to see various TTY headbolts Nissan Juke, Volvo, Audi/Volkwagon, and others. Or even TTY bolts in general. Many are used in european car suspension

Very interesting watch

Yes, I would definitely be interested in seeing the thread inserts tested, as well as some other studs such as the Jeg's studs that are made in the USA. Another interesting test might be with vs without thread locker holding the insert into the block.

@TorqueTestChannel

Жыл бұрын

kzread.info/dash/bejne/gI591teJnridnLg.html

Thread inserts for sure!

Awesome video mate