You are a genuine and thoughtful craftsman! Thanks for sharing!

A very clearly explained process for the installation of a Hi Lok. Excellent video Fram.

@framavia2201

3 жыл бұрын

Many thanks!

Thank you for this ! I’m an A&P apprentice in the states. I had to use these on our olio strut for our flight school 172,$. This helped thank you.

Thanks for the video. I ended up with a bunch of bags of these and had no idea what they were. Super fascinating.

Hey Fram Avia, great video you got there! I am a Stress Engineer by profession but i have never really seen these fasteners in real life because i only work in office LOL. Pretty ironic tho since we analyse these kind of fasteners on various joints all the time. Hopefully you could make more videos like this - maybe on the various NAS/ASNA fasteners and nuts available or maybe even videos on structure repairs Cheers, Ahnaf

This is exactly what I needed to know for a job, nice one 😎

Great videos. Thank you. The hammering sound was hammering to my ears as well hehe

You are very talented and make it look easy even though I know it's not. I hope you have fun doing this. It looks fun. :-)

@FramAvia . Thank you for the video. Very well explained !! Could you make video explanations for other types of airframe fasteners ( NAS, Rivets,etc)

The original bolt is a lockbolt. It's installed with a tool that pulls on the bolts pintail while crimping the collar on. At a pre designed torque built into the breakneck groove between the bolt shaft and pintail. The groove will break off to complete the installation. Another note I would like to make. Is for people to please check your hole sizes after drilling your close ream and interference fit fastener/bolt holes. Never assume it's the right size based on the reamer you used to drill it with. Even if you've measured the hole made by that reamer before. You never know when something has gone wrong to make an oversized or even undersized hole!

@8:25 that timing was just *chefs kiss* fantastic

Great vid....very few videos on hi-lok--great fasteners

@framavia2201

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it

For HL70, you can have the hilok threads flush with no threads out, it will meet minimum protrusion. Hl70 is significantly taller than other hilok collars

Thanks for this presentation

@framavia2201

Жыл бұрын

My pleasure

Great video, thank you!

@framavia2201

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it!

Pretty easy fastener to install in where you have access. If you don't have interference fit, you will have to use Allen key to hold it so it doesn't spin. Not a good tight spot fastener, if you don't want to use the red collar, it's ok to use a regular K nut and washer!!

@faainspector9699

6 жыл бұрын

Hop Along Johnny Sorry , but you cannot put a washer and nut on these hilok pins........the collars are the only thing approved for installation..........please do not make a comment like that , as it is untrue in fact..

@82drumhead

4 жыл бұрын

@@faainspector9699 You are kidding right? You do know HI-LOKs can be installed with a variety of nuts and collars? Not just the "break off" type? HI-LOKs in interference fit holes can CALL SPECIFICALLY for a washer and nut of some kind and installed with appropriate torque setting. Having a name "FAA Inspector" I would think you would know that....

@StratMatt777

2 жыл бұрын

@@faainspector9699 In 1999 at Boeing, while assembling 747-400 center wing tanks we put washers and nuts on all the .315 Hi-loks we used to attach the front, mid and rear spars and spanwise beams to the upper and lower surfaces to create the CWT, per the drawing.

Thank you

@framavia2201

3 жыл бұрын

You're welcome

Never seen this sort of fasteners, but they do look pretty expensive ...:-) ... Just out of interest (not criticism) how do you ensure that there are no chips between all those layers ?

@framavia2201

6 жыл бұрын

Thats actually an important point that I should have covered in the video! - the spar cap was removed and debured after drilling and enlarging the pilot holes. Then reinstalled, the landing gear and bolts at the root end were installed and tightened to push the layers together very tightly. the procedure then calls for the Hi lok bolts to be reamed and installed working out from these points, installing and torquing each fastener before reaming the next hole. This seemed to pretty much eliminate any gap into which the swarf could find its way. At the outboard end there are only two layers and one is very thin, so it was possible to work my way out to the tip clamping, drilling and using a feeler gauge to clear any burs and swarf before reaming and installing the fasteners one by one.

@StratMatt777

2 жыл бұрын

Boeing wings are fastened together with hi-lok fasteners with countersunk heads. On the 747-400 line during 1999, assembling the center wing section, we reamed them to .3145" and pounded them in with a rivet gun (which "cold works" the hole). The desired countersink was .013". The seat tracks are attached to the top of the center wing section via fittings which have 6 much smaller hi-loks put in them.

I’m not an aircraft person so excuse my ignorance, but what advantage do these have over a more traditional fastener and torque wrench?

@framavia2201

5 жыл бұрын

Good Question! actually the original spec for this repair did call for NAS bolts nuts and washers, with the Hi Lok as an alternative. The Hi Lok fasteners turned out to be cheaper (very significantly). Probably because they're used a lot on heavier aircraft, where they can be installed quickly with a special power tool, they are also lighter (small head with no wrenching required) and the alloy nut is lighter. You tend to find in aviation that even the smallest space or weight saving pays off when there are thousands of fasteners installed. For this job though the main reason was price and availability.

@ajb100

5 жыл бұрын

Fram Avia thank you for the reply, I’m in motorsport and find aviation engineering fascinating.

@fluxoff

5 жыл бұрын

LISI Aerospace(designer/licensor) of HI-LOK fasteners & tools, claims these are light weight(compared to bolts/nuts - no heavy, bulky bolt head&nut) after installation, smaller profile at installation(no torque wrench required), equal to bolt/nut in tension& shear strength. Fram Avia is an excellent installer, making it look 5x easier than it is.

@mott1992

2 жыл бұрын

Hi-Loks are incredibly lightweight compared to traditional fasteners, which is critical to aerospace applications. Also, all Hi-Loks are gripped to avoid having threads in bearing at shear joint. Some traditional fasters are gripped as well, but Hi-Loks provide so many extra advantages with weight, shear strength, and ease of install (with the proper power tooling) for permanent shear joints. Any joint considered "temporary" would benefit from traditional bolt/torque wrench install. Generally Hi-Loks are a one-and-done install; removing the fastener warrants throwing it away and replacing it.

Muy fácil la instalacion

HuckBolt the collar is swedged on to the threads. The Hi-loc is a HL18pb6-12 ? And the collar is an HL70

@Airman..

2 ай бұрын

This is not a huckbolt nor a NAS lockbolt

@kevinhindman9943

2 ай бұрын

@@Airman.. no, that is a HL70 Hi-loc collar and the Hi-loc is too short

@Airman..

2 ай бұрын

@kevinhindman9943 i mean the removed fastener not the hiloks

i know its years ago but are you sure that its repaired after EASA guidelines? Because that was not 0.2 clearance fit that was pretty tight

@framavia2201

2 жыл бұрын

Hi, for this application the pins are required to be an interference fit not a clearance fit. Maximum recommended for this pin in aluminium is 0.0015 inch interference , ie fastener up to 0.0015 inch larger than hole. on this job the holes were around 0.0005 to 0.001 inch smaller than the fastener shank, yes, this is tight, but within spec. If EASA did recommend clearance on Hi Lok pins, it would not be for this specific application, as the airframe manufacturer has provided instructions for fits and clearances along with the repair procedure.

Thats a Huck fastener with the grooves.

Whats the part no. Of that hi-lok you installed sir?

@framavia2201

Жыл бұрын

They're HL62 type pins, length and diameter are specified in the relevant service documents, it varies at each location (lengths and diameters generally reduce toward the outboard end of the wing). www.hardwareinc-aviationfasteners.com/HL62-HI-LOK_blind-pin.asp

Goog to learn this tech as a rivet maker

Hello. I want to apply as your trainee. I have 3 year experience in sheet metal. Hope you notice me sir.

Eddie bolts is the new thing. Hi loks make fod

где пистолет?

No sealant used on the Hi-lok?

@framavia2201

3 жыл бұрын

Not specified for this application, some Hi Lok pins have solid film lubricant, most are plated, some are sealed with wet primer or sealer, but it wasn't specified here.

@Oi40ozCasualty

3 жыл бұрын

The fastener doesn't connect in any way to the exterior of the tank. Therefore sealant isn't required for this installation.

@TheRealMaui1

3 жыл бұрын

@@Oi40ozCasualty Hmm. Didnt know it had to be connected to anything specific. I thought it was mandatory to use for Hi-loks. Everytime I use a hi-lok I need sealant on the thing. Pain in the butt to apply. Almost like a conductivity inhibitors it seems.

@Oi40ozCasualty

3 жыл бұрын

It's typically used when a fastener is through an interior side to and exterior side. So the fuselage fasteners are sealed to maintain air pressure. And wings to prevent leakage. Both to keep the fuel from leaking. Or water from getting in. Some use it in the the front and rear spars due to the intensity of the wind and water in those areas as well. Different manufacturers have different standards.

@CrowT

3 жыл бұрын

@@Oi40ozCasualty I didn't think that makes any difference at all. Every Hi-Loc I have ever put in aluminum structure has been mandated to be installed "wet" to prevent dissimilar metal contact...

Why would you use a reamer with a hand tool like that? You should have just chucked a piloted reamer up into a drill with the appropriate RPMs and used a drill block with whatever size you needed. That way you are staying perpendicular to the structure and ensuring a straight hole. To each their own I guess.

@framavia2201

4 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately there's not enough space behind and against the ribs to use a power tool. Also I've not used a reamer with a drill block as they cut the sides of the hole so would cut the drill block too - probably be ok for a a few holes I guess.

@82drumhead

4 жыл бұрын

@@framavia2201 There wasn't enough room, really? Hmm. Reamers or bits used with the correct drill block is not going to "cut" the inside of your block up. They are designed for that. If your reamer is a .1637 or whatever size....use a block that says .1637 on it. It wont hurt anything. Only way you will cut it is if your bit is slightly larger that the I.D. of your drill block...

@framavia2201

4 жыл бұрын

@@82drumhead Maybe I'll try that where I can get access on the next one.

@Oi40ozCasualty

3 жыл бұрын

A 90° motor would be perfect for drilling in this area. You should get yourself one and save yourself some me time and effort 👍

"French thing" LMAO!

@framavia2201

5 жыл бұрын

I’m told it’s a Huck bolt, not something we see much of in GA, don’t know the spec of them but I suspect that the hi lok is far superior!

Da nimmst du ein 3.3 mm Bohrer, bohrst vor und dann mit einem 4.74 Stufen Passbohrer mit einer 1900 upm Bohrmaschine und haust das Hi lok mit PR Dichtmasse rein. Ein viel zu großer Aufwand den du da betreibst. Von der Airbus sind die Zug und Scher Hi Los immer Gold und die Scher immer blau. Demnach hast du den falschen Collar verwendet, denn der für die Scherbeanspruchung ist rot, was nicht zulässig ist.

Surface protection: bonderite + epoxy primer + uretan paint.. lol

You used wrong spanner. You should have used hexagonal socket or open head spanner for hexagonal nut

@Airman..

Ай бұрын

Wrong, in hilok installation kits you'll find both 12p and 6p sockets/ratcheting wrenchs. These are very low torque matter of fact you can feel when it will break off