I had a professor that explained things like you do. I haven't slept that well in years!

I can't thank you enough for taking the time to put these videos together. You have been my "go to guy" while trying to get my 1979 chevy truck back on the road. It is running now thanks to troubleshooting the distributor with your info. I will be watching the Q-Jet carburetor videos to fine tune some issues I'm having.

amazing video all these years later. great voice.

thanks for taking the time to pin point the parts and showing how it works. it really has helped me a lot. I'm doing an engine swap and theirs a lot to learn, I've learn a lot these past few months and thanks to all people like you on the internet helping me with everything.

@RockysRoadshow

5 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Edwin Aviles..........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........Make sure, that you are getting 12 volts or more, at, the usually red, (ignition switch) power wire, that connects to the HEI/High Energy Ignition's, distributor cap terminal.........I just mentioned that, just in case, you might be upgrading, from an older, points and condenser, type of distributor, which has lower voltage (and amperage), than, what an HEI type of distributor needs, so it will work properly..........Good luck with your new engine, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Great video step by step explanation including multimeter testing + reading results. My Chevy 4.3L marine vortec engine in the boat died last summer. Fortunately a marine specialist master mechanic finally diagnosed the faulty pick up coil after several other marine mechanics simply could not solve the no start "mystery"... again this is a perfect problem solving video and description. Thanks very much!

Thank you for taking the time to explain how to test the pickup coil on an HEI.

This is helping me with my 79 corvette. I have been having hard starts on cold mornings. Sometimes it will fire up and others times it will not. Thanks again

@RockysRoadshow

10 жыл бұрын

Greetings jay22nup....Wowsers!....The "Pick-Up" Coil in this Video, is the Same Age as Your "1979-Corvette!!!....Mine is out of a 1979 G-20 (3/4 Ton) Chevy (or Chevrolet) Van!....Hmmmmm, yesterday, I was looking up "C-3"- Corvettes, namely, the 1973 Corvette (must be that "Coke-Bottle" shape that gets to me!...lol)....Yes-Siree-Bob, my Life is Full of "Co-Incidences", and, I'm getting to the point that it doesn't surprise me, all that much anymore....But, Both Vehicles are "1979", and, Yesterday, I spent hours Surfing on Information on 1973 "Corvette" Stuff (including the entire Rear Suspension).....Need I say more? When it comes to the General Motors vehicles, especially the Engines equipped with Rochester Carburetors (both 4-Barrel Quadrajets, and 2 Barrel Dualjets), I have always got them to Work/Perform very well....Always managed to get them "Tuned" well enough to Pass the good old "Smog" (Emissions) Test. Having trouble with Difficult "Cold" Starts you say? Here are some things to Consider and/or Observe, and Applies mostly to a Stock/Factory Setup (without Modifications). If your Corvettes Engine Has Not been running for a few days or more, then you Carburetors Float Bowl could be Low on Gasoline, taking longer for your Fuel Pump to Fill-Up your Float Bowl again, hence, delayed starting....Also, if the Gasoline in your Gas Tank has a certain Per-Centage (%) of "Ethanol" (alcohol) in its "Mix", that Ethanol Evaporates quicker then 100% Gasoline....Also, Fresh Gasoline is a must....Old Stale Gasoline is (--->insert your own Word HereCAUTION!!!,,,When the Engine "Starts", Get Your Foot "OFF of The GAS PEDAL!!!",,,or, you'll Blow Up Your Engine!!!....Then you can give it a Little Gas Pedal, if it needs it to keep from Stalling. If you care to, just let me know, everything that you Observe, that is making your Corvette not run/behave so well. Look behind your Driver Seat, there is a "Stow-Away" on Board!....Never mind, it's just your Battery!...lol. Take care, and have a good one.

I checked my pickup coil and it read 841 on the vehicle. Still didn't mean the distributor itself was good. The wife and I just changed the distributor about an hour ago, got lucky everything lined up, and it fired up on the 1st crank. We are so happy. My point is, just because the pickup tests good, you too may have a bad distributor for whatever reason.. Thanks for all the info RockysRoadshow.

i really liked the explanation i just learned something new & it wasn't that hard to understand nice video regardless of what other people's comments say !! 2 thumbs up

@RockysRoadshow

5 жыл бұрын

Greetings...nick diaz………..Thanks for the nice comment, and for, the "2 Thumbs Up".........The HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributor's pick up coil, has many turns, of very fine (really small diameter) wire, that's wrapped around the plastic bobbin, and is subjected to, a lot of heat, that's in that area, of the HEI distributor's insides, so to speak..........I replaced the one, that I had in there, because of, what that heat did to, the tiny wire's insulation (dried it up/didn't look good to me at all), even though, it was still working ok, at the time (I didn't want it to quit working on me, in the middle of no-where, so, I put a new one in there, just in case, as well as, it was already disassembled anyways)...and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Replaced one of these stuck in the middle shoulder on 696 during rush hour in Detroit, truck just stopped running. Real fun with crazies flying by at 80. Did the trick though, started right up.

@RockysRoadshow

3 жыл бұрын

Greetings...charlie dee........Thanks for watching........Wowsers...!!!...talk about living on the edge......Good thing, that you found the gremlin, that was responsible for all of that chaos........Most HEI distributor problems, seem to be related to, someone, not putting the correct heat transfer-ing compound (aka, heat sink grease), on the back of the ignition control module, before installing it.........I even had a parts guy, in a parts store, tell me, to use "die-electric" grease...!!!...lol...(nowhere on the label, does it mention...heat transfer, in, any way, shape, or form...!!!...lol)........I always use the cheapest heat transfer-ing compound/paste, that a computer store will sell me, usually costs about 10 dollars for a small tube of it (they even use, much more expensive stuff, that might be called arctic silver, on the big ic's/chips, as in, CPU's and GPU's, that are usually found, inside of computers and game consoles), and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Good and clear explanation, thanks for that! I have a Mazda with the B6 engine and I am suspecting that this pickup coil is the problem leaving me with not a spark to be found anywhere! Time to pull the distributor and do the checks!

@RockysRoadshow

3 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Stewart W. .........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching.........I don't know about your Mazda B6 engine, but, if it has a distributor, along with an ignition control module, then, if it works kinda like the General Motors HEI distributor, make sure to use the "correct", heat transfer-ing compound, between the bottom of the ignition control module, and, where it mounts onto, if applicable, that is........Use the same stuff that the computer folks use.........Just get the cheaper stuff, because, some brands get quite expensive...(never use "die-electric" grease, because it's useless, for heat transfer...!!!)..........Your ignition control module, might have over-heated and fried, possibly (if applicable, that is)........Look for some websites that have "forums" on them, for your exact vehicle, and/or engine, as, there are usually some very smart folks on there, that will probably be able to help you out, once you post a question to them........The only Mazda that I ever drove and worked on, was a 1973 RX-3...2 door...automatic transmission...that had a Rotary (Wankle) engine in it........Damn, 70 cubic inches, and it put out 90 horsepower...smooth as silk (terrible gas mileage)...but, once it hit about 3,000 RPM's on the tachometer, it sure came to life, and then some...!!!...lol........It even had a small factory installed 4-barrel carburetor on it.........Then, there was this little yellow light, which was also a push button on the dashboard.........It was supposed to light up, when it got really cold outside, and then, push that button...!!!...but...it never "lit up"...lol........Now get this...when that yellow light/push button was pushed, it was supposed to inject a solution of, as I recall, 90% anti-freeze & 10% water, into the engine, to help it start, when it was cold outside (I imagine, that, it had something to do with, the aluminum combustion chambers, and possibly, the rotors themselves, possibly...???)...cool huh.........The ignition system was something quite different...it had two distributors (leading and trailing), "3" set of ignition points (2 of them, inside one distributor, and 1 in the other distributor)...2 ignition coils, and, 2 ballast resistors, oh and 4 spark plugs (2 per combustion chamber, and, they are kinda peanut shaped at that...lol)........Good luck with your ignition system, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@stewartw.9151

3 жыл бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow Greetings from South Africa and thanks, man! Yes it was the pickup coil at fault. I decided to buy a reconditioned distributor just to be sure that there would be no other component at fault. After all the vehicle is 24 years old! Now I have fire!

Very helpful, thank you for sharing this

@RockysRoadshow

9 жыл бұрын

sma528 Greetings sma528...Thanks for Your great comment, and for watching as well......................................................As far as the General Motors..."HEI" Distributor is concerned, this so called..."Pick Up Coil" (on the Units shipping box, it reads, Pole Piece, if I recall correctly, that is)...that..."Triggers the Ignition Module"...is only, shall we say..."One Piece of the Puzzle"...when it comes to the..."Reliability & Performance"...of a very Well Designed, and, also, as I like to call it..."A Stand Alone"...installation/hook-up, with the usual..."Battery Voltage"...that is supplied by, the..."Single Wire/Connector"...from the Vehicle's Ignition Supply Circuit, as opposed to having, what is usually referred to, as a "Ballast Resistor" (usually, as I have seen, a specially designed and calibrated Resistance Wire, in some, but perhaps, not all, General Motor's Vehicles), that "Reduced the Voltage", and the related Wiring, that was connected to the Ignition Coil, that use to go along with, that good ole "Points & Condenser Distributor", that General Motors Installed, up, oh, until about 1974...then...in about 1975...the General Motors..."HEI" (High Energy Ignition) Distributor, as far as I know, became the Distributor, that totally Replaced, that good ole Points & Condenser Distributor, and, as I see it, was due to having the Vehicle Manufacturers, Comply, with the Emission Standards, that the Government of the day, Imposed on them.........................................................Then, the Performance minded Folks, found, that the "HEI" Distributor was well suited, in the making of..."Lots of Horse-Power & Torque" too...because of the ability of the "HEI" Distributor, being able to, shall we say..."Get the Fire Lit"...in the Engine's Combustion Chambers, much better, with the usually found..."Higher Secondary Voltage"...that the "HEI" Distributor's Ignition Coil, was capable of Putting-Out, as compared to, like I was sayin' earlier, the Points & Condenser Distributor, that preceded "It"........................................................Make sure, that, when-ever You "Replace", any of the "HEI's" Distributor "Parts", for a "Factory Stock" Unit, to Use and Install, the "Exact Parts", that "Are Made For", that "Exact HEI Distributor Number/Model", as there were Many, did I say MANY, "Different Calibrations", that were Engineered, and Designed "Into", those Many Different HEI Distributor Numbers/Models.......................................................Also, the "Rotational Direction" (clock-wise vs counter-clockwise) of the Distributor Shaft and Rotor, can be "Different".......................................................For example....A "Chevy" (Chevrolet) HEI Distributor's Rotor..."Turns/Spins Clockwise" (as viewed from Above), and a Small Block..."Oldsmobile", as far as I recall..."Turns/Spins Counter-Clockwise"...!!! (maybe Pontiac and Buick "HEI's", do as well, from what I recall, perhaps?)........................................................From what I recall, from a while back, is that, some of the "HEI Distributor's...Electrical Parts/Components, might have..."Opposite Polarities"...and that's another reason, to "Make Sure", that the..."Exact and Correct Replacement Parts"...get..."Installed"...for any One, of the Many..."Specific HEI Number/Model"...Distributors, that are out there...!!! .....................................................That also Includes the "Vacuum Advance"..."Canister" (looks like a Mini-Space-Ship...lol)..."Calibration"...as well (if the HEI Distributor in question, has One, that is?).......................................................On my KZread Channel...RockysRoadshow...I have a few Other "Videos", that You might find helpful as well........................................................If You care to, You can have a look-see at another HEI Pick-up Coil Video, where I Take "It" Apart, and Explain a few things about it ("It's" the same One, that You see in this particular video of mine), as well as, some Ignition Coil Videos, among Other Things, that You just might find useful as well...enjoy...................................................If You happen to have any questions or concerns at all, just simply leave a Question or two, under any of my Channel's KZread Videos, and, I'll do what I can, to help You out...............................................Till next time (maybe?).................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Love the video sir thank you

Great video

@RockysRoadshow

10 жыл бұрын

Greetings jay22nup....Thanks kindly for your nice comment....Ah yes, it's all coming back now (over 10 Years ago!...lol)....Probably the only reason that I have this H.E.I. (High Energy Ignition) Distributor "Pickup Coil" out of my 350 Cubic Inch Chevy V-8, removed, and available for this Video, was when I was trying to figure out, what I thought was an "Ignition-Miss-Fire", as my Engine was kinda (well, at least I thought it was) behaving like a Miss-Fire, more-so, when under a slight load, while going up a Medium-Steep Hill. Back then, I didn't know a whole lot, so, like others, I tried replacing a few parts....I also replaced the "Ignition Module" as well....It seemed that after I Replaced both, the Pickup Coil (actually, I purchased the whole unit that you see in this Video, and, it's called a "Pole Piece", and the actual Pickup Coil is that slightly yellowed Plastic "Bobbin" with the many turns of very fine wire that makes up the actual Coil), and the Ignition Module, my 350 Chevy V-8 seemed to run a bit better, but not like it really should. I should also mention....If you ever have to Replace the "Pole Piece" in your H.E.I. Distributor, be Aware that the "Ring" with the "8-Triangles" is "Adjustable!"....You have to make sure that the "Other" Set of those "Moving-Matching-Triangles" on the Distributor Shaft "Don't" make "Contact" with the almost "Stationary" Triangles in the "Pole Piece" (almost Stationary = Because the Vacuum Advance "Moves" the Pole Piece when told to Do So!...lol)....Make sure that you Check for "Equal" Running Clearance between those "2" Sets of (8) Triangles by slowly Rotating the Distributor Shaft, all-the-while Observing the Very Important, and Necessary "Running Clearance!"....If there is an Issue with the "Running Clearance", simply (slightly) Loosen those "3" Screws on the "Pole Piece" and Move/Adjust as required....Oh yeah, remember to "Tighten" those "3" Screws, and "Re-Check" that there "Running Clearance. Then, I started to check a few other things....I was thinking that perhaps the "Timing Chain" was Worn, resulting in a Stretched Timing Chain, that may have "Jumped" a tooth or two on the Timing "Gears?" (actually, they are Not Gears, they are "Sprockets!"...lol...because "Gears"--->"Mesh", or, in other words, the Gear Teeth Drive one another with No Chain whatsoever!)....So, I got out my Trusty "Timing Light", and checked the Ignition Timing....Hmmmmm, Timing was OK, so now what? Somewhere, tucked away in my Gray Matter (Brain), I said to myself, "Self", how about you take off those "Valve Covers" (aka Rocker Covers), and see what those "Teeter-Totters" (Rockers) are up to!...Well now, low and behold, there "It" was, "One" of those "Rockers" was almost "Ah-Sleep!" (not moving very much)....Maybe some of you out there have had a Lobe or two on your "Bump-Stick" (aka Camshaft) do the good old "Diss-Appearing Act?"....You know, where an almost Flat Bottomed Hydraulic Valve Lifter acts as a "Cutting Tool" in a "Metal Lathe", "Machining" One, or maybe More "Camshaft Lobes" into "Metal "Shavings/Grindings", that hopefully, make their/its way to your Oil Pan without causing any further "Destruction!"....Turned out to be the Non-Existent Camshaft "Lobe" for the "Number-4-Cylinders-Exhaust Valve!"....Hmmmmm, maybe it could have also been a "Collapsed"---> Hydraulic (Valve) Lifter as well--->But, it Wasn't! The Moral of the above (True) Story is....Always Start and Run Your Engine at Least "Once-a-Month", and, more often, is even Better!....You might get away with Running your Engine not as Often, if it has a "Roller-CamShaft-&-Roller Lifters", as compared to the almost "Flat-Bottomed" Hydraulic or Solid (Valve) Lifters, Due to the "Lubrication" (Oil) Draining Off of the Camshaft and almost Flat Bottomed "Type" of (Valve) Lifters, where they are in Contact with the Camshaft (due to Earths Gravity). Not only to Prevent the Destruction of your Camshaft, but also, the Lubrication (Oil) that remains in your Engines Cylinders, can, and will Drain Away (downwards) when the Engine remains "Dormant" (kinda like Sleeping, as opposed to being Operating/Running once in a while)....If your Engine stays Not Running for a very long time, sometimes the Pistons can actually "Seize" (almost like Glued or Welded) to the Cylinder Walls themselves!!!....Also (on another vehicle with a V-8 Engine), I had to Replace the Rear Main "Oil Seal" (luckily, it was the 2 Piece Type!), and, I figure that it Dried-Up because that poor Engine Was Not Started, and Running enough (time interval) to get that Much Needed Oil, that was just sitting in the Oil Pan, "Circulating" to all of those "Critical" Engine Parts/Components to Avoid that very "Expensive" and might I add, "Un-Necessary" Repair/Repairs (and, Draining of the Bank Account!). Just "Make Sure", that All of your Garage Doors are Open All the Way, because, Your Running Engines Exhaust Fumes are "Deadly!!!" So, there you have it, the "Extended" and Factual Story behind this "Pick-Up-Coil" being Retired, but then again, it might really be just Semi-Retired, for the reason that is still able to do its Job, if Called-Upon... I better Stop Now, or, this Page could very well "Become a Book!"...lol Take care, and have a good one.

You can also heat the coil a little because the windings in the coil can broken and intermittently expand and go open with heat very common. You heat the coil up with a heat gun or even a hair dryer and it often goes open.

Thanks for the video Boss! My 70 stepside isn't feeling well and wont get out of bed! I replaced the pick up coil and ignition mod. a few years ago with not many miles since. I'm on the hunt now for the problem. Guess I'll gut the distributor tomorrow to find out why no spark! Sigh! Probably needs a few bags of money thrown at it!

@RockysRoadshow

10 жыл бұрын

Greetings MyzterKandiKorn....You are welcome, my Friend, for any help that I provided....Let's see now....I'll just assume that your 70 Stepside is a "Pick-Em-Up-Truck" (aka, Pickup Truck)....Now then, I have heard of a Stepside with a Bed, but, just how "BIG" is the "Bed" that your Stepside Sleeps in anyways???...lol....Damn good thing that you're talking about a "Stepside", and Not a "Fleetside"...cuz...those there "Fleetsides" don't be havin any "Steps" on the Outside of that there Pick-Em-Up-Trucks "BOX!!!"...and...be-in a "Fleetside", You would either have to "Pole-Vault" into that there Fleetsides Box, or, go be lookin for a Step-Ladder to go to Bed...Ooops...I meant, to get Into that Pick-Em-Ups Bed!...lol...."Throw-In" Money at your 70 Stepside Will-Not "Fix-it", prolly be have-in to Throw Bags-ah-Money at da Auto-Body Guy, sow's he can be "Fix-in" all them thar "Dents" You dun made, by Throw-in those "Big-Hev-ee-Money-Bags" at your Stepping-Side! (oh yeah, don't Yew be Worry-in, Yew cants hit Him, cuz He "Dux" Real Fast!). Hold on to that there "Sigh-in", and, Lettuce see what we can be Do-in, to "Fix-Em-Up", Your, "Pick-Em-Up" (70 Stepside "Pickup Truck", I think?). As I gaze into the "Crystal Ball", that I Stole, no, Ummmmm...Borrowed for an indefinite period of time, you know, the One that You saw in the "Wizard of Oz???" What the Crystal Ball is show-in me, is... First, make sure that you are getting about 12 Volts (battery voltage), where the usually "Red" Ignition "Feed" Wire/Connector, that plugs into your HEI's Distributor Cap "Spade Terminal", when your Ignition Key is in the "Run" Position, with the Engine "NOT Running!!!" Seeing as how your 70 Stepside was probably Originally Equipped with a "Points and Condenser" type of Distributor, as, the HEI type of Distributor System didn't show up, until about 1975, then, you have to make sure, that who-ever did the Upgrade to HEI, "Eliminated" that "Resistance" Wire, that Cut-Down the Voltage to the "Points" type of Distributor!!! The HEI Distributor System "Demands", that there be Battery Voltage, in about the 12 Volt Range, gets to your HEI's Distributor Caps "Spade Terminal", having the Key in the "Run" Position, and, with the Engine "Not Running!" Now, about the Installation of your HEI's "Ignition Module"... Did you know about putting some of that "Die-Electric" Grease-Like Stuff, on the Bottom of the "Ignition Module", Before you Installed it onto your HEI's Distributor Body? That Die-Electric "Goop" is Responsible for "Transferring" the "Heat", that the Ignition Module Generates when the Engine is Running!!! No Heat Transfer Goop, then, your Ignition Module will probably Over-Heat, and will go "KAPUT!!!" (aka, Stop Functioning!). Always "Discharge" Yourself, of any "Static Electricity", whenever you are Handling Any Component, that has "Electronics" in, or on it, or, that Static Electricity can actually "Fry" some Electronic Components!!! (Static Electricity = like when you get "Zapped", when your hand touches a Door Knob, if you happen to be..."Statically Charged!"...and...Wakes You Up Faster then a Cup of "Strong Coffee!!!). To "Discharge" yourself, of any "Static Electricity" that you may have Stored up in yourself, without even knowing, simply Touch a Large Non-Moving, and Not Hot, Metal Object, that Will Not Hurt You, aside from the "ZAP", that you just might get, if you are happen to be "Super-Charged" with, some of, that there Static Electricity! Make sure that, both the Bottom of the Ignition Module, and the Surface on the Distributor Body, where the Ignition Module makes Contact with/Mounts, are "Clean", Before you Apply that Heat Transfer Goop, so the Heat that's generated by the Ignition Module, Actually gets Transfered to the HEI's Distributor Body!!! If you happen to have an "Inductive" type of Timing Light, you can Hook the Timing Lights Sensor/Sender "Clamp" on any, or all (one at a time) spark plug Wire /Leads, to see if a High Voltage Electrical Pulse, is actually going through any of your Spark Plug Wires, as you Crank your Engine Over. I just "Tape" the "Trigger" Down, and point the timing light at the steering wheel/windshield area, so I can watch for any Flashes, or, lack there-of. "Careful Now!", Watch out for Hot and Moving Parts, and, don't get any loose wires all caught up in the rotating, and sometimes Hot Engine Parts as well!!! Check "All" Wiring and Connections!!! Let me know, how you make out, with that there 70 Stepsides, Not-Feeling-Well, HEI Ignition System... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@myzterkandikorn2531

10 жыл бұрын

RockysRoadshow HAHA! She woke up! Turned out to be a bad 12 guage wire off the wire you described! I honestly dont know how it ran all this time I had it! The truck is a 1970 chevy stepside with a 73 and up bed on it. It looks sweet with that combo. My wife and I inherited it from her father who passed about 10 years ago so it means the world to us! It has a 327 cu in engine with a cam, roller rockers, headers, brand spankin new carb and more (but I forget!) This morning the first thing I did was check the bat terminal for 12 volts and got about 5 or so! If I hadn't done that before I read your post YOU woulda fixed it with the crystal ball you got (it was right!) Now that you mention it I can't remember goopin up the module. I might have to double check that. In fact being the same age as me (i was born in 69) this will be the year I replace every wire on the truck. I like the timing light trick that woulda kept me from a shock this morning when my wife cranked it over! By the way, my brother and me used to have static shock battles when we were little!

@RockysRoadshow

10 жыл бұрын

MyzterKandiKorn Greetings MyzterKandiKorn....Look Up...as the "BIG Fireworks Display" Lights up the Moon-less, Dark Evening Sky, as I send You Folks (using Telepathy) a Great Big "Congratulations", for a Job Well Done!!!....I'll even bet that Pop's, (Your Father-in-law), has a "Big Smile" on His Face, as He looks down from Heaven, upon, Your Wife, Yourself, and, that 70-Stepside, that the Three of you, Treasured, and still Treasure, Now, and from this Day forth....Thanks kindly, for allowing me, to be a part of this, as, it Made My Day, and then some!....Now that You were going to, and had a Few Bags of Money Available, to Throw at the Stepside, that Was-Not Needed, may I suggest, that the "3" of You (Your Wife, Yourself, and that there Stepside-Pick-Em-Up-Truck), go "Cruzin", and before you go back Home, perhaps consider going through the "Golden Arches" (aka, McDonalds) Drive-Thru, and get your Favorite "HAPPY MEALS"...cuz...You Folks need to "Celebrate", the "Re-Awakening" of that "Sentimental" Ride, known as the "1970-Stepside" (and may I add..."Pick-Em-Up-Truck"). Hmmmmm, maybe I "Jumped-the Gun"... I really should be telling You, before you go on that "Cruize", to First, "Make Sure", that there Really is, some of that there "Die-Electric" Heat Transfer "Goop" on the Bottom of your "Ignition Module", so the Ignition Module "Does-Not-Over-Heat!!!"...or...You'll be "Needlessly-Wasting" about "50-Bucks", on a "New Ignition Module!!!" I use the Following Method to Install an "HEI-Ignition Module"... I Always "Discharge", any possible Static Electricity from myself, every time I go Near that Ignition Module, and, every few minutes, to make sure, that any New Static Electricity gets the Boot as well. Especially Important, on a Hot, and Low Humidity Day! I'll assume that you know how to Re & Re (Remove and Replace) the Ignition Module in your HEI Distributor... Once You are "Statically Discharged", just make sure, that the Bottom of the Ignition Module, and the Surface of the Distributor Housing are "Really Clean!" You can use very Fine Sandpaper (I use 400 or 600 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper), or even some Steel Wool, to clean-up those "2" Surfaces. Wipe the "2" Surfaces with a Clean and Dry Cloth. Apply a "Film" of that "Die-Electric-Grease/Goop" to the Ignition Module "Only", as I found out, that, by Coating "Both" Surfaces, that I ended up having..."Tapped-Air-Bubbles" when I tightened those "2" Mounting Screws!!! Then, Re-Connect those "2" Connectors (one on each end of the Ignition Module), and, "Button-it-all-up". To Preserve your Engine, Start and Run it, every so often, oh, Not-Less then Once-ah-Month (actually, the More Often, the Better!), to keep the "Internals" of Your Engine "Lubricated!" If Your Stepside Pickup is in a Garage, or Enclosed Area, "MAKE SURE", that you have plenty of Ventilation, and Fresh Air, while the Engine is Running!!! The Exhaust Fumes are Deadly!!! If you Inhale, even a small amount of Carbon Monoxide from the Engines Exhaust, that Carbon Monoxide, will enter your Bloodstream, and that my Friend, results in your Blood, "To-Not" be able to carry Oxygen to keep you Alive!!! Now, on a much lighter note... Damn, this "Crystal Ball" is vibrating, and, has a "Ring Tone" Too!!!...lol (so, I goes over to have a look-see, as to What's-up)... Wowsers!...It recorded what your "Better Half" (aka, Wife) was Think-in when you got "Zapped", as "YOU" told Her to Crank-the-Engine-Over!!!... Oh my...(I gasp, as Her Thought Waves were being Displayed on this here Crystal Ball)... It's show-in that... ...at first, She was in a rather Alarmed state, when You got "Zapped"... then... ...once She realized that You were "Eh-Oh-Kay", the Crystal Ball revealed what She not only Thought, but, what She said under-Her-breath, and that was... "GOTCHA!!!" lol... Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Well done, thanks for the video. Quick question... I tested mine while it was still installed and I have 0 olms reading . I made sure I had a good connection. So I assume mine is bad and the cause of my no spark issue?

I have change my ignition module, primary coil, distributor cap on my 78 Chevy 350 and still want start! It turns over very fast but no spark. I did forget to disconnect the battery before changing the ignition module, could I have damaged the new ignition module? Great, thorough video!

Good explanation, replacing it is cheap insurance as you say better than being stuck out in nowhere Ville.

Good video of that particular part I'm having a no spark issue with an hei distributor Changed everything but that maybe that's the problem .

Well done. Thx!

@RockysRoadshow

10 жыл бұрын

Greetings George Smith....Thanks kindly, for your nice comment, and, you are welcome....I was just thinking, that, this here HEI Pickup Coil, could be considered the "Brain" of the Ignition System...cuz...when it Does-Not-Work, like it's supposed to...well...the "Rest" of the Ignition System becomes "Use-Less"...and...goes..."KAPUT!!!" (aka, Non-Fuctional)....Just try to keep in mind, that, "Everything" from your vehicles Battery Condition, Charging System, all Components that relate Directly to your HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor/System, Ignition Switch, Wiring, and any additional Components, that may be Vehicle Specific, and, any and All, Wiring Connection Points, be them, for Power Supply or for making a Ground Connection, "Must" be in "Tip-Top-Shape!"...or..."sputter...sputter...sputter"....goes your Engine, as it Stops Running, and you pull over to the side of the road...waiting, and waiting...until...that "Tow-Truck" finally arrives, to not only Take Your Vehicle, but your Hard Earned Money Too! Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

I'm in the process of trying to get my 1980 C20 on the road, I'm waiting on an ignition module now. I've already replaced the cap, rotor button, and a coil. Hopefully it's the ignition module!!! 😎

Great video, ... so when testing the coil, it doesn't matter which probe (red or black) goes to which contact on the connector, or is there actually a "+" and "-" side on the connector? Thanks

Dude we believe yah, it's a magnet!

@RockysRoadshow

5 жыл бұрын

Greetings...BOOT...…...Thanks for watching...…….But, did Ya know, that, once Ya actually see the "magnet", that's inside of this thing, that, it kinda looks like, one of those, rather thin, brown-ish colored..."Fridge Magnets"...???...you know, those thin ones, that sometimes have, some pictures or advertising, showing on, one side of them...???...but, with this particular one, "it", (as I recall), does not have anything, other than, a brown-ish color, on, "both" sides of "it", but, it can still stick, just as good as, a good ole Fridge Magnet can, never-the-less...!!!...lol.....and...…till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@BOOT

5 жыл бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow OMG dude I don't care, your reply waste more of my time like your vid, details are cool but not for the sake of making the vid longer.....

good video

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...abdyfe...........Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too.............Well, the HEI Pickup coil, when in combination, with those 8-inner and 8-outer triangles (on a V-8 engine's, HEI large cap distributor), and, when-ever they are lining up with one-another, is, shall we say, the Timing Signal, that tells, the ignition control module, when to turn the electricity off, that's being fed, to the HEI ignition coil's primary windings, and, when it does, the so-called magnetic field, that was already built up, collapses, and, when it does, it results in a voltage increase in the ignition coil's secondary windings, up-to the amount of high voltage, that's needed, to be able to bridge the gap, that's between the spark plug's two electrodes (simply put, that is), and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

The pivoting that piece does is the vacuum advance. At idle the vacuum is high, which adds advance. At large throttle openings the vacuum is low which decreases advance at this part. Then there is a separate physical centrifugal advance under the cap that is actuated by the spinning parts. So if you're accelerating hard the centrifugal advance manages the timing, and when you get to speed and let off the throttle the vacuum advance has affect. (effect?) HTH

@Verschlimmbesserung

5 жыл бұрын

I believe you got it all backwards.

@RockysRoadshow

5 жыл бұрын

Greetings...3Repete...…….Thanks for watching...…...Most of what you were saying is correct...…….A factory/stock, V-8 HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributor's, "outer" set of 8 triangles, that surround the pickup coil, is controlled by the vacuum advance canister/unit's, (pull) rod...……..The "inner" set of 8 triangles, get advanced (moved), when the centrifugal advance weights, sling outwards, and interact (make contact), with, the commonly called, auto-cam (mechanical advance), and is controlled by the engine RPM's (Revolutions Per Minute) "only" (doesn't matter, if Ur pedal-to-the-metal or not...lol...……..As for, the vacuum advance canister/unit, then, this device, only responds to engine "load" (aka, the intake manifold, vacuum signal)……….When Ur going pedal-to-the-metal, and the engine is under a lot of load, then, the vacuum signal, can drop to, almost zero Hg/Inches of Mercury (and the reading, usually depends upon, things like, the carb's CFM/Cubic Feet per Minute rating/restriction amount, as an example).........As far as I recall, then, the highest, intake manifold vacuum signal (that's measured in Hg, Inches of Mercury, that's commonly seen, on, a good ole, automotive vacuum gauge), will probably be seen, when the engine is in, a somewhat, high engine RPM's, "de-acceleration" condition...……As for the vacuum signal, that the vacuum advance canister/unit sees, at (curb) idle speed, then, that, in itself, would depend upon, whether or not, that, the vacuum advance canister/unit, is connected to, either, an...(intake) "manifold" vacuum signal source (below the carburetor)...or, a..."ported" vacuum signal source (who's vacuum signal, is usually taken from, just above the throttle plates/butterflies, via, usually, a piece of metal tubing/pipe, sticking out of the carburetor (I usually see it at the front, most times)………..For "smog" engines, I'm use tah seeing "ported" vacuum (as in "no") vacuum signal, at (curb) idle speed, and, the amount of ignition timing advance, for (curb) idle speed only, was usually determined by, where the initial/base timing was set to (I'm use tah seeing, factory specifications, set at, about, 5 degrees BTDC/Before Top Dead Center, initial/base timing, when at curb idle speed)……….If a distributor is set up correctly, to match the engine's ignition timing advance needs, then, I'm all for, the (intake) "Manifold" vacuum (signal) at (curb) idle speed, because, most engines, will like, quite a bit of ignition timing advance, when they are spinning that slowly, and also, the combustion event, isn't all that impressive, at the very same time...…….So, yeah, basically speaking, then, the Mechanical (centrifugal) advance amount, is "only" determined by, engine RPM's...and...Vacuum advance, (with the exception of "ported" vacuum, at curb idle speed), will usually be determined by, engine "load" (aka, the vacuum signal, that the engine sees, inside of the intake manifold, under, almost all, operating conditions), that also include, the..."Driver's BIG Foot"...!!!...lol...and......till next time...…Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Nice video . i remember years ago replacing one of these on a 77 Chevy Caprice . it was really tricky to find what the problem was. Was in trade school for automotive and the very next day we covered this part in class. How luck can you get.

@RockysRoadshow

6 жыл бұрын

Greetings...keving52002............Thanks for watching...........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob..."luck"...was in Ur corner alright, and, Ya should-ah considered, the though, (back then), about, maybe buying a few Lottery Tickets (just in case)....lol...........Those many turns, of "fine/small diameter", wire windings, that are wrapped around that, shall we call it, a "bobbin", perhaps?...are quite impressive, as to, the job/function that it performs...........Then, if a vacuum advance can/canister is in use, then, we gotta, keep in mind, just, how many times, that, the "bobbin's", two insulated lead wires, get "flexed", back and forth, whenever the vacuum advance canister, changes the position of its actuating rod, not to mention, the amount of "heat", that the whole HEI Distributor is subjected to............Gotta make sure, to use the "correct", heat transfer/heat sink "paste/compound", on the metal/back-side of the ignition control module (as in, the type of heat sink grease/compound, that the computer folks use, and "NOT", to use...die-electric grease...!!!), or, there's a pretty good chance, at having, the ignition control module, go..."Poof"...from too much heat build-up...!!!..........Also, all HEI Distributor components, have to get along with each other, as in, the, correct "matching" up-with, one another..........I hope, Ya have, another, "lucky", point-in-time, every so often, and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Fast forward to 8:35 to get past all the blah blah.

@dedmunne

8 жыл бұрын

thanks

@akp41

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you 👍🏾 but very good info though

@paulrodgers5559

4 жыл бұрын

Right to the money shot for you , huh ?

When GM electronic pickup gets old the wires and the plastic get very brittle if you have out of the distributor just replace. To test it you just have to put our own m on it's either going to have affinity or I can't remember how many k ohm's it has but it's pretty high.

Morning from here mate. I have a bosch hei in my gm holden v8. I've changed coil and still getting a weak yellow spark and no start. I'm thinking maybe the ignition module. Not sure though. Do they either work or not?

Im a little worried about how many turns of wire are on the pu cuz i really like the color and would like to see the magnet color again. I just love chocolate the kind that come on some candy bars in the store

Also check ground too if it has 3 terminals. Check between ground terminal and vehicle ground. Should be 0

Thanks for video!! Should have taken 2:00.

Hello, I bought a pickup coil but when I assembled the triangles of the shaft and the triangles of the pickup coil touch. What can I do to sort this?

Can the pickup coil be tested with the distributor in the engine? If it’s good there’s no need to go through all the hassle of removing it. Also, how do you test the ignition module to see if it’s good or not? Thanks!

@RockysRoadshow

3 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Cliff Klimas.........Thanks for watching........You can ohms/resistance test the pickup coil, without removing the HEI distributor from the engine.........Once the distributor cap is taken off, it's just a matter of disconnecting, the pickup coil's, two wire connector, from the ignition control module........Then, connect the ohm-meter's probes, to the two terminals, that are inside of the connector.........While ohms/resistance testing the pickup coil, bend those two wires back and forth a little bit, just in case, the wires are questionable/broken internally, and, if there is a problem, the ohm-meter should indicate so.........There might be a way, to test, the usually, 4-pin style of ignition control module, but, I haven't looked into that, at all........Just make sure, to use the "correct", heat transfer-ing compound, between the ignition control module, and the pad, that it mounts onto, because, if Ya don't, the ignition control module, will usually over-heat, and destroy itself...!!!.........I use the stuff, that the computer folks use, for their BIG heat generating chips (CPU's), and, I just buy the cheapest stuff, because, some brands, can get quite expensive ("never use", die-electric grease...!!!)...and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Little too detailed for my liking, could've done without the wire twisting and such. If a person needs that info they should take it to the shop imo. However we finally got to what I was looking for around the 8min. Mark of the video. Thanks

My 88 chevy c1500 5.0l idles great but when accelerating wants to lose power almost goes dead then slowly gets going then it gets better longer you drive any idea

How does waste spark pick up coil look like? What wuld hapen if you strenghten magnets ore flip them around useing orinary supresors ore condensers instead of ignition module? Culd by used dual polarity relays?

Thanks for the detail. The comments complaining about taking too long, are from guys itching to get back to their parts shotguns. “Hurry up damn it, Autozone closes in 20 minutes!”

@RockysRoadshow

5 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Tbone productions...……..You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...……..Yes-Sir-ee--Bob...there probably are, quite a few people, these days, that, sure seem to be, in quite the hurry alright...(oh, and, "no"..."horse & buggy rides"...for them, what-so-ever...!!!...lol)……….As I look back in time, then, the reason, that I started to study, and started to, some-what understand, the (General Motors), HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor, and how it worked, was because of, that, "misfiring", Chevy, 350 cubic inch (5.7 liter) V-8 engine, that I had to fix, way-back-when...…….Well, to me, it sure seemed to be, "ignition system" related, alright...…….So, I removed the HEI Distributor, and had a closer look at it...…..The pick-up coil's, very fine/thin windings (of wire), looked-like, they had seen too much heat (over time), and, the varnish-like coating, started to flake-off, if you will (replaced "it", and still no luck...lol)………..Then, I started, throwing some more parts at it, as well as, new spark plugs, and, spark plug wires too...(oh my gosh...!!!...lol), and, the engine seemed to run a bit better, but, still wasn't quite right (it's all good, because now, I have some, probably, working ok, "spare parts" for it...lol)……..Hmmm...so now what...???...I know, lettuce (lol), remove one valve (rocker) cover at a time, and, have a look-see...…….While, the warm engine, was running at idle speed (while having, only, one valve/rocker cover, removed at a time), then, the drivers (left) side, seemed to be ok, as in, all of the rocker arms, were..."tee-ter...totter-ing"...equally...but...when, I did the same, visual test, with the passenger (right) side, then...there..."it"...was...!!!...as in, the Number 4 cylinder's, exhaust valve's..."Rocker-Arm"..."was-not"...moving, very much at all...!!!...…….Yeah, I've heard of that, good ole, Chevy, "soft" camshaft story before, but, I never thought, it would ever, happen to me...lol...…..Come to think of it, I probably, never ran, that engine often enough (lesson learned, this time...lol)……….I actually ran, that particular engine, on, only "7-Cylinders"...!!! (it, huffed and puffed, and shook a bit, while at idle speed, and at very low speeds, but, when I got it up to, about city speed, it smoothed out, pretty darn good/almost like normal...…….Then, (for the temporary "fix"), I removed, the intake valve's rocker arm, and push rod, so the intake valve, would remain closed, 24/7...…….Then, I removed, the exhaust valve's, push rod, then, I placed the right length of bolt, under the rocker arm (push rod side), and then, turned (tightened), the rocker arm's adjusting nut, so, the exhaust valve, would remain open, just a little bit, so, that particular cylinder, could breathe, some-what...…..Engine started good, and never stalled, and, all of those, (running), "7-Cylinders", never misfired at all...!!!...lol...…and......till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@tboneproductions2453

5 жыл бұрын

RockysRoadshow I’m amazed with all the engine components and transmission components and electrical etc. that cars are as reliable as they are. Not to mention the different weather conditions that we run em in. Take care

Make sure those tiny bolts are tight you need a good connection mine didnt start because bolts were not tight

At idle, the vacuum should be high. Upon acceleration, the vacuum drops and the vacuum advance retards the spark timing until vacuum is restored. That's how a vacuum advance works. Then, we have the centrifugal advance that is rpm controlled. I guess I should make my own video clarifying the basics.

@gogogeedus

Жыл бұрын

Vacuum advance vacuum is known as ported vacuum and is above the butterfly to give more advance at higher revs.some older vehicles used manifold vacuum in conjunction with mechanical centrifugal advance but from the 70's on most only had vacuum advance using ported vacuum until electronic ignition took over.

Thanks

What was done was excellent...but whst is the voltage output when running ?

@RockysRoadshow

2 ай бұрын

Greetings...danieljurgill 1681......Thank you......For me, the output voltage is tested while "Not Running", for the HEI's pick-up coil........I test mine on the workbench, by having my multi-meter set to "ac volts", and the probes, plugged into the disconnected connector, that goes to the pick-up coil.........I then spin (as fast as I can, by hand), the helical gear, that's on the bottom end of the HEI distributor, and, I usually see about 1 volt, if it's working ok........I hope this helps you out, and, till next time....be safe, take care and have a good one.

That ring is called the toner ring.

I've read on a forum that the pickup coil resistance should lay between 500 and 1500 ohms. However, the poster continues saying that the voltage output of the coil should also be measured. Good reads should start at 0.4 and end to 1.8V. His particular coil only created 0.4V, and he said that is a problem because it should rise up to 1.8V. What do you think about that? (I googled TBI pickup coil normal resistance, and chose a result called chevytalk)

@RockysRoadshow

2 ай бұрын

Greetings...soupflood........What works for me, is when, the HEI distributor is on the workbench, and I can get about 1 volt (ac, I think)...when I spin the helical gear (by hand), as fast as I can, while having the multi-meter set to AC volts, and the probes, hooked up to the pickup coil's connector (two wires).........If I recall correctly, the ICM (Ignition Control Module) is probably looking for a falling voltage, in order to get itself triggered, so to speak........An AC sine wave, goes up and down, kinda like a roller coaster does (ac sine wave...starts low...rises to its peak...then falls back to low...over and over again), and having the zero voltage potential point, half way, between the lowest point, and the highest peak (as I recall)........I replaced the one in this video with a new one, due to, how dried up the coil windings looked to me (probably from heat and old age), and also, how stiff (not supple/easy to bend), that, the two wire leads felt at the time.......Whenever ohms or voltage testing one of these pick-up coils, wiggle those two wires at the same time, just in case there happens to be an intermittent/internal break, inside one of those insulated wires........Also, it's very important to line-up that "dimple" (partially drilled hole), that's on the hub of that helical gear, with the metal tip, that's on the "rotor" (that's on top of the V-8 distributor)........Why you ask, well, it's because there are 13 teeth on that helical gear, and if it's installed 180 degrees out of phase, then, things get kinda messed up, and probably, rotor phasing being out as well, by being, 1/2 of a (gear) tooth out, just sayin'........Funny how I got introduced into learning a bit, about HEI distributors, and it goes like this.......I had a chevy 350 V-8 (circa 1979), that had a misfire happening.......Ah, I thought (to myself), it's gotta be that new fangled electronic (HEI) distributor, that's causing the problem........So, I decided to fire the good ole parts cannon at it, a bit at a time, as in, new cap, rotor, ignition module, and pick-up coil, as well as, new spark plugs and spark plug wires (good ones...lol) too, and the misfire seemed to lessen a bit........That misfire, turned out to be, the number 4 cylinder's, exhaust valve's, "Camshaft Lobe", that went from being a lobe (oval shape), to almost being, a round circle, due to "not seeing" that particular "rocker arm", hardly doin' the teeter-totter movement, like all of the other 15 of them were doing...!!!....Well, if it wasn't for me, blaming that poor ole HEI distributor for that misfire, then, I might not have, learned much about them, and, this youtube video is probably a result of that (fortunate mistake), that I made, quite some time ago........If you have any questions at all, just leave a comment/question, under any of my youtube videos, and, till next time.....be safe, take care, and have a good one.

@soupflood

2 ай бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow I've also read that the pickup coil can be tested with a red LED. If it lights while the distributor is turned, the coil is okay. I can only hope my van doesn't have a bad cam. I don't know if you watched my video of my van. It's got a 3.1L V6 engine (almost half the cylinders volume of your 350) from 1991, was wondering if your 350 from the 70's sounded about the same (Scroll to minute 2 or 3 in the video to bypass the distributor inspection intro if you want). Oh, one other important simptom of this engine is it's really sluggish until it gets to operating temperature. Like, it won't even have the power to get beyond 30mph in order for the gearbox to switch to the last gear (3rd) - unless the coolant gets over 60°C (140F). My next move would be to replace the fuel pump. Maybe it's brushes and commutator are almost done. I saw a date on it if my memory serves me right "2016" so I figure it's about time for a replacement anyway. I was recommended to buy a fuel pressure tester but it costs more than the pump itself.

Why does the pick-up coil have such high resistance? Isn't it like a motor winding with current passing through it?

@RockysRoadshow

4 жыл бұрын

Greetings...I K...……..Thanks for watching...……..Well, the high resistance, that is showing on, an ohm-meter's display, when testing a factory/stock, HEI distributor's pick-up coil, is due to, the very small diameter, of the wire, and also, that very same wire, being quite long as well...……..See if you can find a "Chart", on the good ole internet, that shows, different gauges (thicknesses) of electrical wire, and how much resistance (measured in Ohms), that a given length of wire will be (I recall, it being measured, in ohms per foot)………….Something like, 14 gauge, copper house wire, being one foot in length, will have, a quite low (ohms) resistance, as compared to, a one foot length, of that, very thin wire, that's wrapped, many, many times, around that, HEI pick-up coil's, plastic-like bobbin...……..There is a thin magnet (looks kinda like, a fridge magnet, somewhat), that is hiding, just under, the pick-up coil, and, the pick-up coil's (wire) windings, basically, output an electrical pulse, so to speak, and, it's created, whenever the inner set of triggering triangles, pass by, the outer set of triangles (called a pole piece, as I recall)……….So, there Ya have it, and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

I have a 1982corvette 350 4bolt main In my 1964 impala as Its showing 0.939 kilo ohms on my multimeter it had the symptoms of running shity and backfiring before it went out

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Mateo Villanueva...........Thanks for watching..........If memory serves me right, I think that, the Factory/Stock HEI Pickup Coil, should be somewhere between, about 700 Ohms, to no more than, about 1500 Ohms, (Not K, as in Kilo-Ohms), but please, do Look-Up, the Specifications, for Your "Exact" Pick-up Coil, just to be sure..................While doing the Ohms-Test, "Wiggle" those "2-Wires", that are connected to the Pickup Coil, cuz, sometimes, with Heat and Age, and all of the Flexing, that they receive, can Weaken or Break, the actual Wire, that's hiding under that plastic-like insulation............There are quite a few Things, that can cause, just about any HEI Distributor, to not work, as good as it should be doing......................Have You done a Tune-Up recently, at all...???...as in.....New Spark Plugs, that are Gap-ed properly...???..........Are the spark plug Wires, really Old...???.......Distributor Cap and Rotor Condition...???...................................Might even be, too Lean of an Air/Fuel Ratio Mixture...Carburetor...???.............................One or more, Camshaft Lobes, Self-Destructed...Maybe...???.................There's quite a long list alright, and, if You care to, You can let me know, all that You can, about Your Engine's particulars, that way, the odds will be much better, that I might be able to help You out some-what, and...........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Is it responsible for the injector pulse, it has sparks but no injector pulse. Does the pick up coil and the module is bad? FYI my car is a Daewoo Espero DOHC 1.5 Thank you

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Charles William..............Thanks for watching...............Sorry, for the vary late reply, as I don't recall seeing Your post, in the messages, that I usually receive, like I get, with all of the other ones..............As far as I know, most of the signals, that get sent to the vehicle's On-Board Computer, sure seem to, kinda, interact with each other.................There are a few things that can be done, to, shall we say, narrow down the problem, most times................The first 2 things, that I usually do, is, to, have the vehicle's On-Board Computer "Scanned" for "Trouble Codes", to see if any Codes show up...???...and...Have the "Fuel Pressure"..."Checked/Verified"...with a Fuel Pressure Testing Gauge, in order to make sure, that, the Fuel Pressure, is with-in the Vehicle, Manufacturer's "Specifications", cuz, if the Fuel Pressure is too Low, then, the Fuel Injectors won't be able to Spray, any Gasoline at all.................Be very Careful, whenever working on, or near, any of the Fuel Systems Parts, or Fuel related Lines/Tubing/Hoses, cuz, some Fuel Pressures are really High, and Dangerous...!!!................Some of the Fuel Pumps, can Pump out, somewhere around 100 PSI/Pounds per Square Inch...!!! (kinda like a mini pressure washer...!!!)...................If You are getting Spark/s, that will usually, have me thinking, that, the Pickup Coil and Module, should be doing their jobs quite well..................Did You use a Test of some kind, to determine, that, there was "No Injector Pulse"...???.....................Some Mechanics, might use, what is called, a Noid Light Tester, and hold it near an Injector, to see if there is an electrical field, being produced by the Injector, as far as I know...............So, if You are, or maybe in the future, having any more problems, always remember, to, Scan the vehicle's On-Board Computer for Trouble Codes, and have the Fuel Pressure Checked, to ensure, that, the Fuel Pressure, is within Specifications, as, by doing those 2 things first, You'll probably find, that, You'll save a lot of time, and hopefully, some Money as well (I hope), and..........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Hello. I tested mine and got 1kohm which is within specs. Do you know how much volts should come out of that coil when you pass that magnet really fast about the coil ? If I use a speaker magnet I get 1.5v more or less. When I use that star magnet from the sandwhich, I get like 0.05v.

@RockysRoadshow

4 жыл бұрын

Greetings...eric racine………..Thanks for watching...…….Sounds like you are doing a science experiment...…….Here's about the only thing, that I've ever done with it...…….Having the HEI distributor, out of the engine, then, I connect a multi-meter's probes, into that pickup coil's, disconnected connector, then I spin, as fast as I can, by hand, that gear, that's on the distributor's shaft, and see what voltage, shows up, on the multi-meter's display screen...…….Should get about one volt (AC?), give or take a bit, as I recall, and......till next time...…Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@rotorway133

4 жыл бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow well....lucky for me I have 2 HEI distributors. The new have no spark....I was able to make the old one spark on the workbench. The new did not spark. I swapped the pick up coil and it started to spark. Weird that I get a good ohm reading...but no spark. Anyway....your vid did help. Thx !

@RockysRoadshow

4 жыл бұрын

Greetings...eric racine…........You're welcome...........Here's something, that a lot of people/parts guys, don't know..........Always use, the proper..."Heat Transfer"...paste, on the bottom (metal side), of the Ignition Control Module, or, it won't transfer the heat, that is generated, on the inside of the module, into, the HEI distributor's aluminum body, where the module, mounts onto, with those two screws...……..I always use the heat transferring compound, that the computer folks use, to mount their, heat generating/very hot (electronic) "chips"......…Never use Die-Electric grease, because it won't transfer the heat, "away-from", the ignition control module properly...!!!………..Ignition Control Modules, will usually get "Destroyed", if they get too "Hot"...…….Some of that, computer, "heat transferring compound", can get quite expensive, so, I usually, just get the cheapest stuff, which comes in a small squeeze tube, for about 10 or 12 dollars, and, it will last for, a very, very long time........Also, keep those two screws, and, those two metal eyelets (holes), that are at the ends of the ignition control module, "Very Clean", because, that is, what makes, the (electrical) "ground" connection, from the module, to, the HEI distributor's aluminum body, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

88 Z28... strange misfire I've been dealing with for 2 years now... seems to be centered on the pickup coil. I fully rebuilt the distributor last year with GM parts, even sourced an NOS shaft assembly in case magnet was cracked. Also have an aftermarket distributor, completely new, that has a different style of coil that does the same thing. Pickup coil, given a constant input speed (say, 650 rpm), is outputting a variable frequency, which obviously resonates through the rest of the ignition system resulting in bouncy tach and random misfire. Any suggestions?

@RockysRoadshow

4 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Daniel Vogel..........Thanks for watching.........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, I do have a few things for Ya.........First up, try "diss-connecting" the Tach (Tachometer) wire/s, from the electrical circuit, then, start the engine, to see if that changes things (there might be a Tach-Filter, in the circuit as well).........Make sure, that, there is a thin coating of (computer chip) "Thermal Paste", applied to the bottom (metal side), of the ignition control module, or, it will over-heat, and probably go "poof" on Ya (Don't use die-electric grease, because it won't transfer the heat properly...!!!)...The proper (heat transferring "Thermal Paste/Compound", can be found at a computer/computer parts store (just get the cheaper, usually silicone stuff, because, some of the other stuff, gets quite expensive...!!!)..........If those two wires, that come out of the pick-up coil, are still reasonably soft, then, disconnect the connector, and "twist" the connector, so, those two wires, twist, one or two turns, around each other (this is known as, the old school, twisted pair shielding, which will usually help with, any interference, getting into those two wires)...(computer Ethernet cable, is twisted too, four twisted pairs/8 total wires...cool huh)..........Sometimes, the "Vacuum Advance" canister/unit, has the wrong specifications, for a given engine..........An engine that has, a "Low Vacuum" signal, at idle speed, showing on, an automotive type of vacuum gauge, that's hooked up to, intake manifold vacuum, usually won't get along with, a Vacuum can/unit, that was destined for a stock engine........Try diss-connecting the (rubber-like) vacuum hose, from the advance can/unit, and plug the loose end of the same hose, so, Ya don't get a vacuum leak...!!! (or, more headaches...lol)...and see, if that helps at all..........Those two sets, of triggering "triangles", have to have, equal "clearance" (air gap), whenever, each of the inner triangles, is advanced, one tooth (triangle) at a time (there will be 8 separate places, to be checking, for an equal air gap)........Don't want any of those triangles making contact...right.........If need be, there are 3 screws, that can be slightly loosened, then adjust, for the (equal) air gap, by moving (slightly), the outer set of triangles, and then, tighten those 3 screws...........Is the ignition system, as good as new...???..........Space the spark plug wires apart from one another (with non-metal, wiring looms), and, keep them away from, any metal parts, like valve covers (high voltage, likes to jump...lol)..........12 volts/battery voltage, going right into the HEI Distributor...??? (usually red wire/connector)...........The Ignition Control Module, has to be "matched up with", the Ignition Coil, or, there might be a problem (weak spark, or, over-heated ignition coil, maybe)...........Wowsers, now that I think about it, Ya might have a "Bad Camshaft Lobe", because, I started out, learning lots about, the good ole HEI distributor..."Before"...I found, that (not-an-exhaust-valve-lobe-anymore), that use-tah-be on, the camshaft's, number 4 cylinder's location...(was in/on, a Chevy 350...V-8))..............Symptom was, a slight misfire alright...!!!..........Ya might be ok, if Ya have roller lifters...........Having flat tappets (lifters), then, there was a time, where a few guys, and maybe gals too, that had, that good ole, soft camshaft syndrome (and, I never thought, that, that "bug", would ever bite me, but it sure did...lol)..........Maybe, check out, the D.U.I./Davis Unified Ignition (HEI) distributor website, because, they will custom make, an HEI distributor, that has, an advance curve, for your "Exact", vehicle and engine combination...best performance, from an HEI, dropped in distributor.........Have a look at their spark plug wires too...impressive, I must say.........Good luck, and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@danielvogel5252

4 жыл бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow yeah, tried all of that already. It's a V6, btw. No vacuum advance. Vacuum is strong. It's the pickup coil assembly itself that's the issue. The pickup coil is outputting a variable frequency output for a constant speed input. Both triangle style pickup and the stock HEI star assembly in 2 separate distributors. It's varying by as much as 30 to 40 Hz at even 650 RPM input

@RockysRoadshow

4 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Daniel Vogel...…...Well now, that variable frequency, of, 30 to 40 Hz (or call it, cycles per second), could very well be, how the output, of the pick-up coil acts, and, here's probably why...…….The actual triggering pulse, for the ignition control module, as I recall, happened, during a "falling wave", electrical signal (probably, a form of sine wave), that was generated, soon after, the inner set of triggering triangles, just went past, the outer set of triangles...……..On a, not installed, V-8 HEI distributor, the pick-up coil, will usually output, at its "disconnected" connector, about one volt (probably AC, I forget), give or take a bit, when I would spin, by hand, as fast as I could, the helical drive gear, that was on the HEI distributor's shaft, you know, at the bottom of it...……..You can try that test, with your, non-installed HEI distributor...…….A Random misfire, can sure be caused by lots of things...…...Start, by having a close look at your engine's spark plugs...look ok...???...……..Might be ignition related, or, fuel system related, sometimes, might be both at the same time, perhaps..........Have you tried, any type of spark test at all...???.........There is an HEI distributor "Spark Tester", that is calibrated specifically for, a factory/stock HEI distributor.........It kinda looks-like, a spark plug somewhat, but, has a plain metal shell (no screw-threads), and, should have an alligator? clip, that connects to a ground source..........There is also, an adjustable type as well, that can be set, to test, in the thousands of volts..........Just Google...HEI distributor Spark Tester...and see what pops up........Good luck, and.......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@danielvogel5252

4 жыл бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow That's all been done already. EVERYTHING IS NEW. I'm aware that the coil outputs a readable AC voltage... usually around 1.5V. It's the frequency that the module uses to determine timing. What I'm asking is for a given fixed input rotational speed, why is the pickup coil not outputting a constant nonvarying output frequency like it should?

@RockysRoadshow

4 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Daniel Vogel……….Well, here's what's goin' on, as far as I recall, that is...…..Think in terms of, a good ole AC sine wave...…….It's when that wave, starts to come down (aka, fall), when the inner set of triangles, just go past, the outer set of triangles, and it is the, so called "Falling" wave location, that is actually, the "signal", that "triggers", the ignition control module (or, in other words, this is what the ignition control module is looking for, so it can get triggered)……….Un-filtered AC (Alternating current) is all over the place, and here's what I noticed, a long time ago...…….I had, and still have, a hand held, variable speed, rotary, Dremel tool...…….So, I plug it into a house receptacle, and move the speed control/slider (switch), into, a not too fast position, and, with the rotary tool, just free-wheeling (no load on it, what-so-ever), then, I could hear the "speed" of that Dremel tool, shall we say, "Wavering"..."Up and Down", speed-wise, that is, and, what I was hearing, was, how the Dremel's electrical motor, was "re-acting", to the fluctuations (not constant), voltage, that the house's (AC) receptacle was out-putting (a multi-meter, will also show, a moving up and down, AC voltage as well)...…….You might be over-thinking, the output frequency thing, when it comes to, just simply, "triggering" the ignition control module...……The basic, HEI ignition control module, that only had 4 (flat) pins on it (2 on one end, and 2, on the other end of it), and, when in operation, it would receive that (now famous...lol), "falling wave" triggering signal, that, as I recall, then, the ignition control module, will then, "shut off", the electricity (nominal 12 volts), that goes to the HEI's ignition coil, then, the magnetic field in the primary windings, collapses, and then, the secondary windings, will increase the voltage (in respect to, windings turn ratio, there-abouts), then, through the rotor, distributor cap, spark plug wire, and finally, the spark plug itself...……..The ignition control module, is responsible for, the ignition coil's "Dwell/Charge-up time", which is why, the ignition coil works so well, without melting...……..I recall seeing, as low as, about, 7 Degrees, on a dwell meter, that was on, a Chevy V-8 HEI distributor, while it was at idle speed, so the ignition coil, would not receive too many Amps, for too long of a time period (milli-seconds)………..Too many Amps, going into an ignition coil, for too long of a time period, that wasn't designed for that amount, will usually, just over-heat, and go kaput...…….There are some pretty good Websites, and/or, website "Forums", that have lots of information, about, all of the HEI distributor parts and pieces, and how they function...…….Most of the information, that I've put here, is basically, how most of the HEI ignition modules get "Triggered"...……..The older HEI modules (1975), that only had 4 (flat) pins on them, didn't react with any computers (they were/are, stand alone, one wire, HEI distributors)……….I'll have to check out, your 1988 HEI distributor's ignition control module (and how many pins, that it has), and, see what I can remember (or not...lol)………..Connect a "Vacuum Gauge", to your intake manifold or plenum, and see, how many Hg (inches of mercury), that your engine produces at idle speed (15 to 20 maybe...I got about 17, on a V-6), and, the gauge needle, was holding steady (not fluctuating)………..Intake vacuum leak...???...intake manifold gaskets leaking maybe...???...and...…till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

What do you do if the reluctor touches or taps those little triangles on the way by as it rotates? I know it's not supposed to but what do you do if that happens?

@RockysRoadshow

5 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Larry Van Valkenburgh……….Thanks for watching...……Well, if any of the outer, and inner triangles, are making contact with one another, then, that's probably not a very good thing at all (bent shaft...???...loose, or worn-out bushing/s, that will allow the shaft to go sideways too much)...………There should always be, an..."equal air gap" (as is, physically possible)...between all of the triangles, as, the inner set of triangles, that are on, the distributor's shaft, is rotated (advanced), by one, (triangular shaped) tooth at a time, and, the triangular points, are also, lining up with each other...……..The reason for the equal air gap, is because of, the way, in which, those two set of triangles, create an electrical signal (rising and falling of it), due to magnetism (there is usually, a flat, thin magnet, that kinda resembles a brown-ish colored fridge-magnet some-what) that can be seen, if those 3 screws, and the outer set of triangles, are removed from, that metal casing...…….I've actually "adjusted" the "air gap", on a V-8 HEI distributor, some time ago, as, I observed, a not so equal spacing (air gap), by my, shall we say, well-trained-eye...lol...…….If, by chance, any of the colliding triangles, have been, shall we say, "mushroomed over", then maybe, that triangular shape, might be able, to be restored, by using a small flat file (from a needle file set, possibly), but, only as long as, the pointed end of the damaged triangle, doesn't get..."shortened"...from its original size, otherwise, the air gap, might become too large, and, the result might be, a weakened magnetic field, possibly (ignition misfire maybe...???)………..If I recall correctly, if Ya hook up a volt-meter (multi meter), to those, two, pick-up coil lead wires, and, spin the gear end of the distributor, as fast as you can, by hand, then, there might be, a volt or two, showing-up, on that volt-meter's readout/screen...…….Those 3-screws (that, "are not" equally spaced), that secure, those outer 8 triangles/as a unit, can be loosened slightly, then, like I've done before, just tap those outer 8 triangles, from the side, until Ya end up with, having, the inner & outer sets of (8) triangles, equally spaced (air gap), when-ever, any of, the 2 triangle's pointed ends, are in line with one-another, oh, and, don't forget to "tighten" those 3 screws, or, oh oh, it will probably be (maybe, use some thin cardboard, or, a stack of, some small paper pieces, to create, a non-magnetic feeler gauge, if need be)...……..The actual "trigger" position, of those 2 sets of triangles, that trigger the ignition control module, happen, when, the "inner" triangles, just get past, the "outer" triangles, as the distributor's shaft is spinning (as I recall, the ignition control module, gets triggered, by the falling electrical wave, so to speak)………...I remembered this phenomenon, and, just a few weeks ago, I had to install, a brand new HEI distributor, into a 4.3 liter V-6, (only had, 6 triangles this time), and..."Hole-ee-gwalk-ah-moly...I was with-in...about..."2-Degrees"...when I put my timing light on it...!!!...lol...………Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...there will probably be, a rising, and a falling, electrical potential alright, as in, it will rise, as the triangles, approach one another, and, it will fall, as the triangles, just go past, one another, and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@cowboystuff2002

5 жыл бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow Problem magically went away. All I can say, except I had the distributor together and apart several times and when I got a new module in there, they no longer touched. Thank you for your help.

@RockysRoadshow

5 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Larry Van Valkenburgh………..You're welcome, and, I just saw your post...…...You were saying that, you recently installed, a new, Ignition Control Module...…….I sure hope, that, you put some..."Correct"..."Heat Sink/Thermal Paste", on the metal/backside, of the module, before mounting it, because, if you don't use the Correct, heat transferring goop, then, the ignition control module might "over-heat", and, burn itself out...!!!...…….Don't use..."Die-Eelectric"...grease, as it won't transfer much, if any, of the module heat at all...!!!...(just read the label, or instructions for it)………..I use the stuff, that the computer folks use, on the heat generating chips (IC's/integrated circuit chips), that are found, inside of, computers and video gaming units...…….A small tube of it, is usually less than 10 dollars, and will last for, many, Many, module installations...…….This "thermal paste" (heat transferring compound), is usually, a white-ish color (Not "clear-ish", like, die-electric grease is, at all...!!!)………..Also, those 2 metal..."eye-lets"...that go through the ignition control module, are actually, the..."electrical ground"...for the ignition control module, so, make sure, that, the eyelets, and the 2 screws that go through the module, are nice-n-shine-ee and clean...…….Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...these HEI, ignition control modules, sure do, generate, quite a bit of heat, and, if Ya want "it" to have a long and prosperous lifetime, then, please do, use the..."correct"..."heat sink/thermal paste"...which Ya might not find, in an auto-parts store (I went to a computer store, and, I bought the cheapest stuff, and, there's also, some, really, Really, expensive stuff as well, as in, the stuff, that's called, arctic silver, as I recall), so then, there Ya have it, and...…..till next time...….Be Safe, (don't over-heat), take care, and have a good one.

@cowboystuff2002

5 жыл бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow I had to buy and use the ACCEL Control Module, and I used the thermal paste that came with it. I build my own computers also, and know all about the heat transfer and thermal paste. The woman in O'Reilly's who is very smart and helpful, said Die-Electric, and I knew that was wrong. Thanks.

@cowboystuff2002

5 жыл бұрын

I'll also mention, that this HEI distributor is basically brand new, even tho I have about one year's use on it. It's one of the conversions for Ford 351 w engines, and is awesome. So, it was clean and not worn in any way, except for the pickup coil windings coming all apart and shorting out the module. So I now have a new pickup coil, new Accel module which matches the ignition coil. A new MSD cap and rotor, and am now back in business.

How do you test a module in a aftermarket electronic distributor?

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

+Ron S ....Greetings Ron S....Thanks for watching.................Well, depending, on just which...???...Module, as in "Ignition Control Module"...???... it actually is, that You have there, might be an exception, but, most of the older ones, would probably require an Ignition Control Module (specific) Tester/Testing Unit, if the Ignition Control Module, was to be Tested by "itself", and is not installed in the Distributor..................There might be some Website "Forums" out there, on the Internet, that might have, an easier/cheaper way, to Test, certain types of Ignition Control Modules, just be careful, so the Module doesn't get Shorted-out, by connecting something, to the Wrong Pins, or Connection points, and having it, ending-up, going..."Poof"...!!!...................There are some Auto-Parts Retailers, that will actually Test an Ignition Control Module for "Free", so, just make a few Phone calls, and ask them, if they do so...................There are some Ignition Control Module "Testers", that You can Buy, but, why do so, if You can have it Tested for "Free"...!!!...lol.................For the "Non-Computer" Distributors, I just usually, make sure, that, everything else in the Ignition System, Checks out, as in, good Connections, proper Voltage, as well as, Ohms/Resistance, and, if I don't get a good Strong "Spark", while Testing for Spark, the Ignition Control Module, from my experience, seems to usually be, the Last, shall we say..."Suspect"...lol...................Most of the Ignition Control Modules, that I've installed in the past, had to have some..."Heat Transferring"..."Specific"...Paste/Grease-like stuff, smeared on the back of the Ignition Control Module, before installing it, onto, the Base/Mounting Surface, that was usually inside the Distributor, or, if not, then, there's a really good chance, that, that poor ole Ignition Control Module, would probably go..."Poof"...as in..."Over-Heat"...and Destroy itself...!!!...Yikes...!!!...and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Also oem spec to measure with the pickup coil at 75 degrees f

I am unable to get the housing off the shaft. I removed the C-clip retainer, but the housing feels like it is welded to the shaft. Took the coil, magnet, pole piece and shield off, but housing won't budge. I may have to reuse the old housing if I can't get it out. Any ideas? (I've used PB blaster and tried torch on housing. Ready to try a gear puller next.) I may also pull the roll pin so I can twist the housing back/forth with a wrench.

@johnparker4836

3 ай бұрын

Never mind. Heat and penetrating oil followed by gentle prying around circumference popped it out. (2 days later.)

@RockysRoadshow

3 ай бұрын

Greetings johnparker4836.....Thanks for watching......In order to remove the shaft from the HEI's aluminum housing, you will have to remove the roll pin with a punch of some kind, then, remove the gear and the washer that goes between the gear and housing......Sometimes, there is a carbon/sludge kind of build-up, that can be stuck onto the middle portion of the shaft, that can make it difficult to get the shaft out......Try to get some penetrating oil into both ends of the housing, where the shaft just starts showing....Then what I do, is to, pull the shaft quite firmly, while rotating it back and forth a lot of times, and for me, it always comes out, sometimes not so easy, and sometimes, not much of a struggle at all.......When it comes time to put it all back together, then, this step, is very, VERY IMPORTANT!!!........On the "gear", there is usually a "Dimple" (as in, a partially drilled hole/not very deep), that is quite close to, where the hole for the roll pin is located........This "Dimple", has to "line-up" with the "Rotor's Metal tip", once it is mounted/screwed, back onto the top of the HEI's weight assembly.......If it installed 180 degrees out, to where it should be, then, it might cause, some strange, kinda, ignition related misfire, I be thinkin'.......If I recall correctly, that gear has "13 teeth" on it, which is an odd number, that can't be equally divided in half, and, if it is installed 180 degrees out, the "clocking" (angular alignment), would be in the neighborhood, of being 1/2 of a tooth out, possibly........If your problem wasn't what I was tellin' you about, just above these words, then, just type another comment/question, and I'll try to help you out.......Good luck, and.....be safe, take care, and have a good one.

@johnparker4836

2 ай бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow Thanks for the feedback. I experienced the shaft seizure as you described and figured that out after a day or two. I was able to get the coil housing off as decribed above. I did not know about the dimple, and have inserted the distributor, but may have to pull it again to look. The problem I am having now is the car will start and run fine. I noticed a "jump" in timing mark that bothered me, but was able to set it. Problem is; car runs for 30 seconds to a couple minutes now, then just dies as if I turned off the key. This has stopped me dead for a few days, and I wonder now if being 180 out would cause the stall. Sure seems likely, and thank you so much for mentioning this. Edit: After reading a few forums just now, I think mine is in correctly. One of the issues I had was rotor pointing to passenger side (cylinder no. 2) at number one tdc, instead of driver's side cylinder no. 1. This caused interference with plenum, so had to move all wires one spot over to be able to turn distributor far enough for initial timing. It's in there now squarely so I could move wires back to optimum position for twisting without interference. (Had to twist oil pump with a screwdriver, to get it seated. (That bump the engine drop-in method can break teeth I hear.) Trouble shoot goes on for stalling. I have no scanner comms, so back to figuring out why EST bypass no longer throws a code, and ESC may be bad, and damaged ECM driver(s) finally, if ESC chart hasn't led me astray. No codes either. Can't run long enough to test things. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

@RockysRoadshow

2 ай бұрын

@@johnparker4836 Greetings...johnparker4836........Here are a few things for you to try/consider........If you have a timing light with an inductive pick-up clamp, that clamps onto a spark plug wire, then, connect your timing light, onto each spark plug wire (one at a time), in order to see, if each of the cylinders, are getting a good steady "pulse" (aka, bright strobe flash), so to speak, as in, does the timing light, show even light flashes, as the engine is at idle speed, as well as, at a bit higher in RPM's as well...???.......I had a V-8, that had a similar, stall at idle problem, and, I also, initially suspected, that it was ignition related as well........What it turned out to be, was that, the carburetor's..."idle circuit"...passageway (one or both of them) were plugged up a bit too much, and, even though I turned up the idle speed screw quite a bit, it would slow down, and then stall, dead as a door-nail...lol.......So, I rebuilt that carburetor, (new brass float too), and reset all of the choke adjustments and such, and now, it idles like new, and, if I just touch the gas pedal, it accelerates, like the damn thing is fuel injected...!!!...lol.......If you care to, just let me know, what you vehicle happens to be, so I know what you are dealing with, as in...year...make...model...engine...etc......Good luck, and......be safe, take care and have a good one.

@johnparker4836

2 ай бұрын

​@@RockysRoadshow 1986 Pontiac T/A w 305 FI . Fuel pressure is 35-42 when running, up to 42 when stalling, just a glitch upward upon stall. New ICM, pickup coil. Runs, idles down after cold start injector swithches off. Revs fine, smoothly, settles, runs, then just shuts off like a switch. ADD: It used to just start and shut off before new pickup coil change. Timing is 6 btc base with bypass unhooked per spec. Slight jump once when timing, but resolved before next stall. Cannot run long enough to troubleshoot. Looking at Electronic Spark Control; checking ECM charts for clues. Bypass no longer sets a trouble code when disconnected as it should. Fuel rail and regulator rebuilt. Fuel filter replaced less than 100 miles ago last summer. New intake gaskets, Mass Air Flow sensor, goes into closed loop. O2 sensor working. No ecm codes. Computer won't communicate with Actron obd1 interface; there is a signal present on the serial line. (This makes troubleshooting laborious and primitive.)

A 14 minute resistance check?

@ZakTheRipper18

5 жыл бұрын

This dude is somnolence-inducing with his yackity yack droning. It's a simple test, get to the goddamn point already.

Do you need to remove the distributor to replace the pick up coil?

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Patrick Keaveney............Thanks for watching............Yes, indeed, the HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor, with that LARGE distributor Cap on it, has to be Removed from the Engine, and, not only that, the Distributor's Shaft Assembly, has to be Removed from the Body of the HEI Distributor as well, which involves, the Removal of the Helical Gear, and, any spacers/washers, that might be, between that Helical Gear, and the HEI's aluminum Body, that are on, the Opposite End, of where the Distributor Cap mounts.............Here are a few things, that You'll need to know, before attempting to "Re-Install", many, of the Distributors that are out there, for most engines..............If You haven't Removed and Properly Installed a Distributor Before, then, make sure, that, You Study Up on, and Observe, Very Closely, as to where the Locations, of, all of the spark plug Wires get attached-to, on the distributor Cap (aka, firing order, and the rotating direction of the rotor, that's spinning, inside the distributor cap), as well as, the orientation/position, that the distributor Cap is Positioned, on the Engine, as well as, what direction, that the Rotor is Pointing, as in, the way that they are Located, "Before", Removing the whole Distributor...............To avoid Problems, make sure that, You know, what the Initial (base) Ignition Timing (advance) is, with a Timing Light, that Your Distributor is "Now" Set at, so You'll be able to get it back to, where it was, when it comes time, to Reinstall it...............Those, are just a few of the things, that have to be done, and be done properly, I might add, and, if You are seriously thinking about, removing and replacing, something like a V-8 Engine's, HEI Distributor's, "Pick Up Coil", make darn sure, that, You know, how to do it properly, before attempting to do so, or, You'll more than likely, have a heck of a time, tryin' to figure out, why, the Engine, probably won't start, and/or, run properly.................I have a few, HEI Distributor Videos, on my KZread Channel...RockysRoadshow...enjoy.............Just always remember, it's a lot easier, to take something Apart, as compared to, putting it Back-Together...Properly, and, not only that, something like an engine's Distributor, has to be Reinstalled, so the Initial (base) Ignition Timing, is Correctly Set (with a timing light), or maybe, it will be low power output, or, on a bad day, engine damage, and I hope not..............If You are going to Replace the Pick up Coil, just let me know, how much, You already know, about doing these kinds of things, that way, I'll know, what to help You out with......and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@brucekimble6098

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Rockey my first vette trying not to to remove the distributor 👍

Tell us about the box the thing came in.

@davidblack4195

3 жыл бұрын

And where it came from, what the box is made of, explain decimal points and ohms again too

8:35 for the test

if the pick up wires are loose at all,will it cause "no fire" in the distributor?

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...roger b..............Thanks for watching..............Yes, indeed, if the Pickup Coil's Wires, or its Connecter, are, as You say, Loose, or, Not making a Good Connection, then yes, a No Fire (no start), it just might be............The Pickup Coil, actually, shall we say, "Triggers", a 4-Pin type of Ignition Control Module (ICM), and without having that Triggering "Signal", then, a 4-Pin, type of Ignition Control Module, won't be opening the (electrical) Ground circuit, that needs to happen, when-ever, those, inner and outer, sets of Triangles, are about lining up, which then causes, the magnetic field, that, has already been built-up (from the previous, electrical, charging-up/saturation cycle), inside of the ignition coil, to collapse, which will then give us, that nice high voltage and amperage, that eventually terminates, at the spark plug's electrodes, and, which, on a good day, equals, a nice (and hopefully) Strong "Spark" as well..............Make sure, that, there is Battery Voltage/about 12 Volts, coming from the Wire/Connector, that plugs into, the Top of the HEI's, LARGE Distributor Cap, when the ignition switch, is in the "Run" position (with, the Engine, Not "Running"...!!!), cuz, if not, then, that's a problem, in, and of itself............Keep all Electrical "Connections", Clean and Dry, to avoid, any not wanted problems..............If You need any more help at all, just let me know, about Your "Exact" Vehicle, and the Problems that You are having with it.....and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@Bossrich6287

7 жыл бұрын

thanks,i have a 85 Camaro with a older 350 with 202 heads and holley carb.Actually,it's a friends' car who wants me to sell it and it ran bad from the get-go.like a spark plug wire was crossed.i took the distributor out and a mechanic said one of the pick-up wires was loose,and then he pulled it off,(somebody had frayed the green wire already).i bought a alot of parts, without knowing i could get a new distributor on E-bay for only 50.00.so that's what i did today.

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...roger b...........Congratulations, on the purchase, of Your New, nice-n-clean HEI Distributor, but, here are a few things, to be aware of..............Although, the New HEI Distributor, looks almost the same, as the one, that was in the engine already, I'd be willing to bet, dollars-to-doughnuts, that, the Specifications, probably, are Not the Same......say what...???...lol...........Well, if the HEI Distributor has the Advance Weights and Springs, just under, where the Rotor is mounted, then, there were, an almost countless number, of GMC/Chevy/etc.,Ignition Advance Configurations, as in, how many Degrees of Advance timing (at the crankshaft, sometimes expressed in Distributor Degrees...!!!), and, at what RPM, that it occurs at, as well as, how fast it comes in (commonly known as, the distributor Advance Curve, mechanically, that is).............If Your New HEI Distributor, has a Vacuum Advance unit/canister on it, then, there are Many different ones as well, as in, how many Degrees of (ignition timing) Vacuum Advance, it will add, at light engine loads, as well as, the Hg/inches of mercury (of vacuum, be it manifold vacuum, or ported vacuum/on the carburetor), where it starts, and ends at, as well.............The Initial (base) Ignition Timing, has to be Set (with a strobe, type of timing light), so it "Does Not", make the "Total" Timing, go too "High", at the specified RPM, for that particular Engine...!!!...("Total", that be, the Initial, plus, what the Advance Weights provide, when full deployed, and also, having the Vacuum Advance Hose "Plugged", so the Vacuum Advance unit/can, does Not Move/Operate at all)................The most important part, will probably be, making sure, that, the "Total" Timing (the best that I came up with, was that, the "Total" timing, was probably an old Racing Term, where-by, the "Racing" type of Distributors, never had a Vacuum Advance unit/can, on the distributor, what-so-ever), and, by saying this, it will hopefully, lessen the amount of confusion, that's goin'-on, out there...............If...???... there is a Vacuum Advance Can/Unit, on Your New HEI Distributor, then, if You see, 6-Sides on it (kinda, looks-like, the outside, of a Big Nut, that goes on a bolt), then, there's a pretty good possibility, that, it might be the Adjustable type (with a hexagonal, allen wrench/key).............So, please, don't make the Mistake, of locking down the New HEI Distributor, at a quite "High" initial (base) Timing amount, without "First" Knowing, what Degrees of (ignition) Advance, that Your New, HEI Distributor's "Advance Weights" will Max out at, and, at what RPM, that they Max out at, as well, so Your engine "Does Not get Damaged", when-ever, You, or Who-ever, decide, to go WOT/Wide Open Throttle/Pedal-to-the-metal...!!!..............Every Engine, is Different (well, to me, they seem to have Their Own Personalities...lol), as in, just how much "Total" timing (with "No" Vacuum Advance added), that it likes, when going WOT/Wide Open Throttle (and usually, at above, oh, about, 3,000 RPM/ballpark figure, and also, that RPM depends upon, the circumstances as well, as in, is "it" a Smog engine, or, is "it", a Street/Strip, or Race engine...???)...............The Cylinder Heads (burn time), will usually have a lot to say, about, how High, or Low, in crankshaft Degrees, of ignition Timing Advance, that the Engine wants, at all RPM's and Loading conditions as well, and, at the very same time, won't be causing any Engine Damage, and will also, have quite the affect, on Horsepower...Torque...and...Fuel Economy as well................When You install that New HEI Distributor, and without the (distributor) Cap on it, make sure, that, the distributor's Shaft, has some Up and Down, "Play/Clearance", once the (distributor's) Hold Down Clamp/bolt/nut, is tightened down, so the Gear end, of the distributor Shaft, "Does-Not", put any "Force", down onto the Oil Pump (not good)................If You happen to "Hear", any...Pinging...Rattling...or...Knocking..."Sounds"...coming from the Engine, then, there's a pretty good possibility, that, the Ignition Timing, might be "Too Far Advanced" (and the Advance amount, is usually measured, with a strobe/flashing Timing Light, pointed at the timing Tab, where the Line/Groove is usually located, on the Harmonic Balancer, most of the time).............So then, the above, will hopefully, be of some help to You................If You are in need of any more help, from me at all, just give me a shout, and, I'll do what I can......and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@jaimezapien4897

5 жыл бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow I just removed engine ,350chevy ran fine ,replaced it with a newer engine ,hei distributor, 1979elcamino, well the motor turns over fine, I just don't have any spark...do u think it's the ignition module...

My car is not getting spark I changed the ignition module I changed the rotor I changed the coil on top of the distributory cap and the distributor cap I'm getting power to my wire but not getting spark will the pickup coil cause it

@codyramos3200

3 жыл бұрын

im going through the same thing no spark.. did you replace pick up coil?

@RockysRoadshow

3 жыл бұрын

Greetings...gennaro sandova..........Thanks for watching........Well, there are a few things, that can cause a no-spark situation, with an HEI distributor.........With the engine "not running", disconnect the (usually), red wire, from the HEI distributor cap, and hook up a volt meter, to that wire...then...turn the ignition key, to the "run" position........There should be battery voltage (that be, usually, about 12 volts).......Then, that 3 wire connector, that plugs into the distributor cap, can sometimes have wiring connectors, that get oxidized, corroded, or maybe, as I've seen before, some green colored yuck-ees (lol), coating, on said wiring connectors.........One of the, shall we say..all-of-ah-sudden...no sparky...spark...spark, from an HEI distributor, takes place, is usually because, so many folks, not knowingly, use the..."Wrong"...heat transfer compound (aka, grease-like substance), between, the bottom of the ignition control module, and the flat aluminum pad, that it mounts onto, and is secured with those two screws (note..."very important...!!!...those two screws, and, the two holes/metal eyelets, that go through, the ignition control, are the electrical..."Ground"...connection...!!!...so, make sure that, those things are super clean)..........Always use the same stuff (heat transfer-ing compound), that, the computer folks use (just buy and use, the cheaper stuff, that they have, because, some of that stuff, can be quite expensive)...("never use"...die-electric grease, as, it's not any good at all, for the purpose of, any heat transfer, what-so-ever...!!!)..........Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...the ignition control module, gets quite "hot", while in operation, and, if the heat that "it" generates, doesn't get transferred to that aluminum pad, on the distributor body, then, the module might overheat, and self destruct...!!!....(aka, kinda melt).........Also, the ignition coil, and the ignition control module, have to be compatible with, one another (kinda like, a matched set, if you will), or, there might be, an unwanted problem........There might be, a sheet metal, looking ground strap, that mounts onto the ignition coil, when, the coil is placed in the distributor cap, and, if so, make sure that, it gets re-installed..........A faulty pickup coil, can sometimes be the problem, and, those two colored wires, tend to get kinda stiff/dried out/not so supple any more, and can sometimes, end up having, an internal no-connection scenario, or possibly, an intermittent ohm reading, if those two wires are flexed/bent back and forth, during, said, ohms/resistance testing...so, bend those two wires, back and forth, and see if there is an intermittent/open/internally broken wire........Also, on that plastic-like bobbin, there are so many turns/windings, of some very small diameter wire, and, I'm amazed at, how well they hold up.........I recall, seeing some tape-like substance, that was wrapped around, all of those wire windings, on the bobbin, that, got all dried up, and that, was what made me replace, my very first pickup coil, on an HEI distributor (just in case...)........If, Ya do, replace the pickup coil, make darn sure, that you get the..."correct"...one...!!!...because, there are a few, different ones made, for certain applications, and, some of them, might have, an "opposite" polarity...!!!...oh, and, not to mention, different colored wires as well...!!!...lol.........If Ya need any more help at all, just give me a shout........Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

I got a question. My distributor in my 1979 Volkswagen bus is getting very very hot and I have no idea why it is

@RockysRoadshow

6 жыл бұрын

Greetings...KikiMaster Chris.........Thanks for watching.........Was this too hot of a Volkswagen distributor, something that you just happen to notice, as compared to, how hot it usually gets, once the engine gets up to operating temperature, and also, how did you determine its temperature, as in, too hot to the touch (by hand), or otherwise...???............Is the engine running good or not...???...........The distributor's main body might be made out of aluminum (metal), and is usually installed into the engine block (case), so, the heat from the engine block, will get transferred to the aluminum part of the distributor, and that's one way, that the distributor will get heated up...........Hmmm...have you replaced any ignition system parts, or made any new ignition timing (advance?) settings/adjustments, just before you noticed this extra (hot) heat...???............Here are a few other things...........Did you notice any unusual/different "sounds", coming from the distributor at all, as in, squeaking or grinding noises, etc....???...........Inside the distributor cap, at the top/center, there might be a spring loaded carbon button, that makes contact, with the (spinning) rotor's center point (metal part of it), and, if the carbon button "wears" too "short", it will usually "lose contact", with the rotor's metal bar (contact point), and when it does, the Larger the Gap becomes, the higher the ignition coil's, high voltage output has to get, in order to, shall we say, "make the spark jump", that extra, not so much wanted gap..........Same thing happens, when-ever a spark plug's electrode "Gap" gets Larger, than the factory's specified spark plug gap, for that exact engine...........Also, just about any time, that a Larger Gap occurs, anywhere on the secondary/high voltage side of the ignition system, then, the poor ole ignition coil, has to work much harder, to be able, to (hopefully), produce a nice strong spark, between the spark plug's two electrodes...........Same thing happens, when-ever the electrical resistance become higher as well, due to things, like worn out spark plug Wires as well...........Are you doing regular tune-ups and maintenance...???...because, if not, it's just a matter of time, before the engine acts up, and tells you that it needs some help.........So then, make sure that you keep the ignition system in good shape/operating condition, as in, don't let parts like...distributor cap & rotor...spark plugs...spark plug Wires...etc....get worn out too much, or become too old...and also, try to keep the ignition system tuned/adjusted to the VW Factory "Specifications"..........If there's anything else, that you might need some help with, then, just give me a shout, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@jf4872

5 жыл бұрын

Head on over to The Samba for ACVW mechanicals. Timing on them needs to be set at full advance (mechanical) 28 BTDC @3200+rpms.

would a pickup coil from a datsun L16 be the same test? reason i ask is the wires are not removable from the module and with it being connected to the module it has no reading what so ever. so trying to see if it is bad even though it is a brand new unit.

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

+james p ....Greetings james p....Thanks for watching....................Well, I've never worked on a Distributor, like the one that You have there (Your Engine has a Distributor on/in it, does it not...???).....................If there happens to be a known Test, for what You're after, perhaps do an Internet Search, for a "Datsun" (that be the Name used by Nissan, for some of its Exported Vehicles)...Website, that has a "Forum" on it, where You should be able to ask lots of questions, about Your Exact Vehicle and Engine...................Some of the People on those Website "Forums", should have lots of Hands-On Experience, and hopefully, will have a fair amount of knowledge, and if You got really lucky, they might even Post some Pictures for You as well.....................If, (and I doubt You will), are unable to find the Information that You are after, You can get back to me, and provide me with the following, so I don't end up, going on, yet another...Wild Goose Chase...lol.............Your Vehicle's Year, Make, Model, and the Engine Size, and, what Problems You are having with Your Ignition System or otherwise...................If I happen to, require any more information, I'll be sure to let You know...thanks, and......till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@jamesp5588

8 жыл бұрын

yes it had the distributor in it. and thanks for your help. not been having much luck on how to check it on any sites so far guess it is about like a dinosaur a thing of the past lol

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

+james p ....Greetings james p....You gonna give up that easy...???...lol..........I found an old book of mine, and, there's some information in it, that pertains to an older Points Distributor, for a Datsun L-16 Engine...................Some of those L-16 Engines, as I'm guessin', and saw/read in the book, go back to, those good ole Datsun 510's............Tell You what...if You can let me know, about Your Vehicle and Engine, as in, Year, Make, Model, and the Problems that You are having with it, then, I'll do what I can, to help You get those Problems fixed, as best I can................So it's Your choice, as to what, You end up doing, and, good luck, with what-ever You decide to do, and..........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@jamesp5588

8 жыл бұрын

just figured i would let you know that after some more checking it was indeed a bad pickup coil even though it was brand new. thanks for this video i followed it just like you did using my digital meter. after installing a new one again the truck fired up about the 3rd turn over and this is after sitting atleast 5 or 6 years.

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

+james p ....Greetings james p....Thanks for letting me know, and...."Congratulations"...!!!...for finding the problem, and, You're welcome for this video of mine..................Well, sometimes, New Auto-Parts, have their bad days too, and for me, I've always had pretty good luck, with Electrically related auto-parts...but...I installed, a brand new, top brand name, mechanical (type of) fuel pump, on a V-8 engine, just a few years ago, and, that engine, with a carburetor on it, kinda ran ok, when it was first installed on that V-8 engine...then...a few days later, it conked out, but, I did manage to restart the engine, just before the battery was about to die on me, and slowly, but surely, the car made it home (whew, coulda been an expensive towing bill, if it didn't)...lol......................I exchanged that faulty mechanical fuel pump, for its Identical Twin, and I must say, that, this New Identical Twin, works Super, and then some..............................Here's some more stuff for You to consider, as I've experienced over the years........I hope that You didn't leave the Parking/Emergency Brake on, while Your Truck was on vacation, cuz, I had a car, that was parked for a few years, and the Drum Brake..."Shoe Lining...Bonded to the Brake Drum"...and the rear wheels were Locked-Up Solid/Stuck Big-Time...such fun that was...Not...!!!...lol.........................Now I use Bricks, to stop the car from rolling away...not the parking/emergency brake, and, having the transmission, in-park, or, in-gear of course, if a vehicle, was not going to be drivin' for quite a while.......................It would be a good idea, to start an engine, oh, not less, than, about once-a-month, cuz, the motor oil, that's inside the engine, will eventually find its way, back, into the oil pan, due to earth's gravity..................I had a V-8 engine's, 2 piece rear oil seal, dry-out, and start leaking motor oil, near the rear of the oil pan.......................Most engine's crankshafts, splash motor oil, around the inside of the engine, to lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons, and, if an engine was not run for many years, then, there were some engines, that had their pistons and rings, stuck really good, to the cylinder walls, as in, seized-up...!!!.....................Then, most of the older domestic engines, that had flat-bottomed hydraulic (valve) lifters, that rode on the camshaft's lobes, while also, not having enough motor oil on them, could result in, one or more destroyed camshaft lobes (just ask me, I know...lol)...oh, and, it was that particular V-8's, number 4 cylinder's, exhaust (valve) camshaft lobe, that got Destroyed...!!!.......................Warning...!!!...always have lots of fresh air and ventilation around a vehicle, when-ever the Engine is "Running"...cuz, Engine Exhaust Gas is Deadly...!!!...............Your Coolant (anti-freeze and water mixture), is probably Over-Due, and should be changed, or, it will probably end up, be-in (internal) Corrosion-City.................Old Gasoline to an Engine, is kinda like, Old Milk to Us..."YUCK"...lol...and till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

if ya had some magnet wire could you wind your own?

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Chris Mosley..........Thanks for watching.........So then, You want to know about, Hand-Winding, Your very Own, HEI Pickup Coil...???...well then, I'd say, that, You, just might have found, the right Guy (me...lol), for the answer, to Your question.............So then, here we go...........When I was a teenager, I use to spend a fair amount of time, messin' with, and racing Slot Cars, both 1/32 and 1/24 Scale cars, on a couple, of Big, 8 Lane commercial race tracks...............I recall, scratch building, a few car chassis-ees (frames), from quite a bit of brass tubing, and a heck of a lot of soldering, to keep all of those brass tubes stuck together alright, but, here's what's really gonna help Us, with Hand-Winding, that almost New, Hypothetical (at this time), HEI Pickup Coil, and that is, that, I also, use to (custom), Re-Wind (by hand), 3-Pole Armature, slot car Motors (as well as balance those armatures), and, shim the magnets in the Can (that be, the main, outer body, of the slot car motor), as well as, many other things, that would help me, to be able, to get, Lower/Faster Lap Times, on the track..............If You want to Know, and See, what the Definition of..."FAST"...!!!...is, just go to KZread, and Search for..."Wing Slot Car Race" (or something along those lines...enjoy...!!!), oh, and, they never had any "Wing Slot Cars", like You'll be seeing on KZread, way back, when I was do-in the Slot Car thing.................Ok then, let's say, that we have the "Bobbin" (that be, the pickup coil's plastic Body), "Without", having any (copper?) Wire/Windings on it (a Blank, in other words)..............The "Wire", that's gonna get Wound onto that Bobbin, has to be...the Correct "Gauge" (diameter), and be, the same as, the Original Factory Wire, as well as, it should have the same amount of Ohms/Resistance, per Foot (as an example), and also, I think, that, it would be a very good idea, to keep the Overall Length, of the New Wire, the same Overall Length, as the Old Factory Wire, that came off of, the Bobbin, so, when we Ohms/Resistance Test, the Newly Hand-Wound Bobbin, the Ohms measurement, will hopefully be, as far as I recall, at the Factory's Specification, somewhere between...500 to 1500 Ohms...when all's said and done................I'm thinkin' that, the Factory, probably used, some kind of, Computer Controlled Machine, to Wind, the Windings, on the Factory Made pickup coil Bobbins, so, I'm not all that sure, that our Hand-Wound Bobbin, will be as nice looking, as the Factory Job, cuz of, mostly, having to deal with, some, rather "Small" Gauge/Diameter Wire, that we have to Handle, and, Wind onto the Bobbin, by Hand, as compared to, the, probably, much Larger, Gauge/Diameter of Wire, that I was using, to hand wind, those good ole, slot car motor's...Armatures...way back when................Then, Wind, the Windings, in the same Direction, that the Original was Wound in (just in case, it does something with the polarity...as I'm not sure)............The Toughest part, as I see it, will be that of, trying to keep the Layers, of all of those Windings "Uniform" and Even (if You've ever Wound up a Garden Hose, on one of those, Mounted on the outside of a House, Hose Reels, then, I'm quite sure, that, You know what I'm talkin' about), and also, with having, a Consistent "Tension" as well..............I kinda doubt, that Our "Number", of Hand Wound "Turns" (of wire), will be all that close to, the Number of Wire Turns, that, the Factory, "Robot" (machine), Wound onto that Bobbin, probably because, We're only Human, after all (lol)................So, now that all of those Windings, are all wound onto the Bobbin, it's just a matter, of soldering the ends, of our hand wound Wire (2 ends), to the (Larger Gauge) of Lead Wires, that are connected to, the Connector, that plugs onto, the ignition control module (not sure, but, there might be a polarity involved, as to, which ends, of our hand wound windings, get connected/soldered to, which color of wires, that go to that module connector...???)...............Time now, to Ohms Test, our New Creation (that be, the newly hand wound HEI pickup coil Bobbin), and to our surprise, it Ohms Tests, to (hypothetically, and with some imagination, on my part), at about 1,000 Ohms...!!!...Yah-Who...!!!............Now then, we put the Pole Piece/Pickup Coil Assembly back together...so now what...???...I know...Do One More Test...!!!...say what...???.............Once, Our, Newly hand wound pick up coil (bobbin) assembly/pole piece, gets installed, and the HEI Distributor, is put back together, with-out the Cap on, and also, just leaving the pickup coil's Connector, hanging out, then, we just connect the 2 Probes of a Multi-Meter, to the pickup coil's Connector, and Set it on..."Low AC (Alternating Current) Volts...then, just Spin the Gear, that's on the end of the HEI Distributor, as Fast as We can, by Hand, and, from what I recall, the Multi-Meter, should be showing, on its Display/Readout, about...1 Volt AC...give or take a bit, and that should be enough, (once the HEI Distributor, is back in the Engine, and everything is good to go), then, it should be able, to, shall we say "Trigger", the Ignition Control Module, then, from the Module, and onto the Ignition Coil it goes, and then...Zzzzzaaappp...!!! (my way of sayin', High Voltage Spark...lol).............Even though "it" might work ok, during testing, should we really Trust, Our, newly hand wound, HEI Pickup Coil, out on the Road...???...well, I'll let You be the judge of that one, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@chrismosley409

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the reply. I guess you're right. At least with a store bought one you'd have a warranty in case it pooped out. I have never attempted it myself but I have tried it on some old radios with some success and some failure. I'd say at the least it teaches you patience. Thanks for sharing you knowledge on here.

omg get to it!

How do you remove and replace the coil?

@RockysRoadshow

3 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Geran Simpson........Thanks for watching........In order to remove and replace an HEI distributor's "pickup coil", You should have some reasonably good mechanical skills, because it might be a bit too difficult, for a, shall we say, beginner........The HEI distributor has to be removed from the engine, and, before doing so, you have to know how to re-install it correctly, along with, being able to set the initial ignition timing accurately.........That helical gear, that's on the lower end of the HEI distributor, that appears to have angled gear teeth, has to be removed from its shaft, and is held in place with a roll pin.........That helical gear, has to be put back in place "exactly" where it was...!!! (not, 180 degrees out/opposite), to where it was originally, or, the distributor won't work right........Sometimes, it is very difficult, to remove the shaft, from the distributor housing, because of, a build-up of deposits, that are usually stuck on the shaft........Once the shaft is removed, then, the pickup coil can be removed.........Remove the wiring connector from the ignition control module, then, as I recall, the pickup coil, is secured in place by a clip, which has to be removed first.........Upon re-assembly, then, Ya gotta make sure that, the "dimple" (partially drilled hole), that's in the hub of that helical gear, lines up with the metal "tip" of the rotor, when it is installed on the top of the shaft/advance mechanism, with those two screws, or it's gonna be 180 degrees, out of alignment...!!!.........So then, that's basically the procedure..........Look on KZread, for some HEI distributor videos, where the person is taking an HEI distributor apart, and then, you'll have a much better understanding, on how the parts are removed, piece by piece, and, for re-assembly, then, it's just a matter of, doing the removal sequence, in the opposite direction.......Good luck, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

I have a new coil and ICM. Still no spark. Pickup coil or computer??

@RockysRoadshow

4 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Jason Allen........Thanks for watching........There are a number of things, that can cause a no spark problem.........The first thing to do, is to, make sure that you have battery voltage (12 volts there-abouts), going to the battery terminal, that is on the HEI's distributor cap, when the ignition key, is in the "run" position (and, make sure that, it's not connected to the "tach" terminal, that is right next to it...!!!).........You mentioned a "computer", so, in order for me to help you out, then, I will need to know the following, about your vehicle, as in...year...make...model...engine size and number of cylinders, and also, if it's all stock, or, modified in any way at all, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@jasonallen1590

4 жыл бұрын

@@RockysRoadshow I got it going. Pickup coil wires were no good

ámigo me gustaria la explicacion en español vivo en venezuela gracias

@RockysRoadshow

6 жыл бұрын

Greetings...helko jose fermin cordero...........You are welcome, and, thanks for watching..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

I posted a video on my c10 can you help?

@RockysRoadshow

6 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Izy Sanchez..........Thanks for watching...........Well, I will try to help you out, once I know what's wrong with your C-10..........Where might I find this video, that you mentioned...???...if it's a KZread video, what Channel Name was it posted on, along with its Title...???...or...otherwise...???...........Perhaps, you can type a few words, about your C-10's problem, and hopefully, I can respond to you, with a few possibilities (and hopefully), be able, to help you with, getting your C-10, back to runnin'...good...healthy...&...strong...once again (keeping fingers crossed)...and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

I'm working on a 1988 Chevy 1500K 4WD and was hoping that .814 reading would be correct for this vehicle? I'm deciding between that and the ignition module as I've put my hands on the both the coil pack and the distributor after seeing no spark at in the spark plugs using a Philips Screwdriver and seeing no spark between the air gap. What do you think would be the most likely solution?

@RockysRoadshow

9 жыл бұрын

wildboy92004 Greetings wildboy92004....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/questions as well........................It appears, that, that .814 (Ohms?), that You were mentioning, should be alright/ok, as I recall, off of the top of my head, is that, an "Ohm Reading"..."Between"..."750 to 1500"...Ohms, should be (as I recall), the actual Ohms Testing "Specification/s", for this particular, 1979 HEI Distributor's..."Pick Up Coil"...that You see in this KZread Video of mine......................................Just to be sure, try to find, the "Actual Specifications", for Your "Exact"..."Pick Up Coil"...just in case, it, might be a bit different?....................................................................................When-ever, looking for Your HEI Distributor..."Specifications"...or..."Replacement Parts"...Make Sure, that, You Get, the "Exact Parts"...for Your..."Exact Distributor" (hopefully, there will be, some Numbers, and/or Letters, found in/on Your particular Distributor, hopefully)...and..."Exact Ignition System"...as well...!!!.....................................I have a "7 Number Code"...Stamped Into/Onto, this, shall we say..."Old School"..."Ignition Coil, in the Distributor Cap, type of, V-8 HEI Distributor" of mine, on the bottom/outside, of the HEI Distributor's, Aluminum Body..................... "Make Sure"....that You..."Get the Correct/Specified Parts...for Your Exact HEI Distributor"...or...it might end up, not, be-in, such a good day after all................................You have to make sure, that Your "Ignition Coil", is getting "Battery Voltage" (about 12 Volts), when Your Ignition/Key, is placed in the "Run" (Not Start!) Position................................With Your "Engine...Cold and Not Running"...."Disconnect the Wires" that are plugged into Your "Ignition Coil"...then, select, Your Multi-Meter's "Volt Range/Scale", to Measure 12 Volts (might be set at 20 Volts?)...then, "Ground", the Multi-Meter's, Black Test Lead, to a good ground...and, with the "Red Test Lead"...Probe/connect it to...(You might need a Small Pin, or the like, to make the required test lead connection, perhaps?)...the, might be Red Wire?, or, the Wire that should make Your Multi-Meter Display, that approx, 12 Volts (Battery Voltage), when the Ignition Key, is Turned to the..."RUN"...Position..."NOT START"...position"...!!!............When You are finished, "Checking for that 12 Volts, in the Ignition Coil's, 12 Volt Supply Wire"...Turn Off the Ignition Switch, and take the key with You...and...Disconnect those Multi-Meter's Test leads, and reconnect the Wires, that connect to the Ignition Coil, that You removed previously...........................Did You "See", that 12 Volts, there-abouts, at all, while doing the Test...???................................The Design, of Your Vehicle's, Distributor Cap, with that..."Way Too Small Carbon Button" (inside) of "it"...and, that rather "Wimpy" Rotor, for, both the V-6 and V-8 Engines, are absolute "Junk/Crap"...more-so, when-ever the Spark Plug's "Gap", happen to be set at .045" (Four-tee Five Thousandths of an Inch) or LARGER, because of the "Much Higher Secondary Voltage", that has to make its way through, the Ignition System's, "High, Secondary Voltage, Side"...in order to "Jump", that "Much Larger Spark Plug Gap"...!!!............................If the "Gap Specification", for Your Spark Plugs, are close to being .035" (Thirty-Five Thousandths of an Inch), then, as I see it, the Ignition System's, High, Secondary Voltage, probably, Won't be, quite as High, as, having those Spark Plugs, with those Larger "Gaps", and, that, Way Too Small, Distributor Cap's..."Carbon Button"...should last a bit longer, hopefully....................................Check the "Carbon Button", that is Hiding, on the Inside of Your Distributor Cap, near the Center of it..................That "Little Carbon Button"..."Should Not", be "Worn Down", all the way, to the, shall we say, Distributor Cap's Plastic, and, that Little Carbon Button...should be "Spring Loaded", as well...............................If there is anything left, of that Carbon Button, then, just Push on it, and, it should have a "Spring-like" Action to it, much like a Writing...Ink Pen, that retracts, does................................The Way Under-designed, and "Wimpy," Distributor Cap's, "Carbon Button", and Rotor, usually don't last as long as They Should last, as compared, to both the, Circa/Dinosaur, Points and Condenser, type of Distributor, Cap & Rotor, as well as, the Earlier, V-8 HEI Distributors, that had the (Ignition) Coil (installed/Mounted) in the Distributor Cap...Did, and...Still Does...!!!...lol...................................If and when-ever, You do, decide to Replace that "Wimpy", Distributor Cap & Rotor, try to get a Distributor Cap, that has "Brass Terminals" on/in "it", and, if You can get a hold of, a Rotor, with a "Brass" strip of Metal on "it", then, that's a good thing...............................If You can Buy/Purchase, the, Distributor..."Cap and Rotor"..as a "Kit" (that be, the Cap & Rotor, usually in the same Package), then, that, my Friend, should "Save" You, a wee (Wee = Tiny or Small...lol) bit of Money, hopefully, that is...................................Make sure, that, the Bottom of the Ignition Module, and, the the Distributor Body (inside), where the Ignition Module, "Mounts On", are "Very Clean and Shine-ee, and also, make sure, that, You Smear, some Approved "Heat Transfer/Electronic, Heat Sink"..."Goop"...on the bottom of Your Ignition Module, before You Install "it" or, it just might "Over-Heat", and go..."Kaput"...!!! (aka, not work any more)...................................Make Sure, that, "All Wiring"...Connection Points/Connectors, are not Corroded/Oxidized/Dirty, especially, on the "Low Voltage" side, of the Ignition System's, Electrical Circuit, or, Things, might not "Work so Well", if the Full amount of Voltage and Amps, don't make it to, where it/they, should be going to, just sayin' now.............................Oh, and, if Your Spark Plug "Leads/Wires", are very Old/have lots of Miles/Kilometers on "Them", it would be a good idea, to Replace Them, with a set of Good Quality Ones, and, make sure, that, You Install, those Spark Plug Leads/Wires, Don't Forget" to "Install"..."Those"...(usually made out of)...."Plastic..."Wire Separator CLIPS"...in order to Prevent, any of that High Voltage, from "Jumping", from One...Lead/Wire, "Into another Lead/Wire"...or, might just turn into, something like..."Engine...Miss-Fire City"...!!!...............................It's always, a Good Idea, to be doing, "Regular Maintenance", and to, also, "Change/Replace", All of the "Parts & Pieces", as well as, any Required "Adjustments", that, is/are, "Recommended/Specified", by the "Factory/Manufacturer", that made Your Vehicle, to better Your Odds, at, Not having to go, on a..."Wild Goose Chase"...!!!...lol............................Have a look-see, at some of the "Other Videos", that I currently have, on my KZread Channel...RockysRoadshow...and, I'm quite sure, that, some of them, will be able to, help You out some-what...enjoy.........................If You care to, You can let me know, how Ur makin' out, and.....................Till next time................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@wildboy92004

9 жыл бұрын

RockysRoadshow I will try this, thank you. Am I testing for resistance at the pole of the ignition coil?

@RockysRoadshow

9 жыл бұрын

wildboy92004 Greetings wildboy92004....You are welcome...........................It appears that, You might not have, all that much experience, when it comes to working on, something like, a Vehicle's, Fuel, and/or, Ignition System, and We all have to Start somewhere, and, that Includes (actually Included...lol)...Me also, when I was, at first, starting out, gettin' my Hands Dirty, and tryin' to figure..."Why is my Car Not Runnin' so good"...???...lol.......................................I'm assuming, that, You have a "Multi-Meter", that should be able to measure "Different", shall we say, "Things" (some-what Electrically, that is), and, if You have a look-see, at the many "Different Scales/Ranges", on most of the Multi-Meters out there, You will usually "See", both the "Ohms Symbol" (kinda looks like a Horse-Shoe, with the Open-End of that Horse-Shoe, pointing Downwards), and, Ohms, are a typical way, in which to Measure an "Electrical Resistance", usually, when Not Having any Electricity Flowing through the Wire/Wires, or Component/s, as the case may be......................Voltage, on the other hand, and, as I see it, is the actual, oh, shall I say..."Electrical Pressure", of the Electricity, that is Flowing through a Wire or Component..............................Be Careful now, as there are usually "2 Types of Voltage"...one being..."AC Voltage" (AC = Alternating Current), and a fairly good example of "AC Voltage", is the Type of Electricity, that is Flowing through the Wiring in a House...then, there is..."DC Voltage" (Direct Current), which is what, almost all..."Electrical Tests"..."DC Voltage-wise"...that is, when Testing the "Voltage", on various, Wires and Components, that are usually found, in most Cars and Trucks...........................Your Vehicle's, "Battery", should be rated at 12 Volts, actually, a Fully Charged, 12 Volt, Vehicle Battery, should be around 12.6 Volts, with the Vehicle's Engine "Not Running", and, when-ever the Engine "Is Running", and..."None"...of the..."Accessories are Turned On", as in Heater/Air Conditioner Fan, Windshield Wiper Motor, Headlights, etc., then, I've found, that, at times, on a "Cold Winter's Day", that, the "Battery Voltage", with the "Engine Running", and "Every Accessory Turned Off", I was seeing, almost/about, 15 Volts, showing on my Vehicle's "Volt Gauge", on/in the Dashboard...!!!.....................................Now then, About what I was saying, in my last Post/Reply, was, to "Measure the Voltage", while having the Multi-Meter's "Dial/Selector", Set for "DC Volts", in order to Measure, the Amount of "Volts" (Voltage), that is coming through the "Wiring/Connector/s", that is, to be..."Disconnected"..."From"...Your Ignition Coil..."Only"..."Not the Ignition Coil Itself"...!!! (well, if there is Any, that is?)...................................Be "Extremely Careful", while working near Your Vehicle's "Battery", because, there is usually "Explosive Gas Venting", from Your Vehicle's Battery, especially when, Your Engine is Running, and the Vehicle's "Charging System" is Operating...!!!...so..."No Sparks"...and..."No Smoking"..."What-so-Ever"...!!!...anywhere..."Near Your Vehicle's Battery", or, maybe..."BOOM"...!!!....and, I hope not..................................Also..."Check the Fuses"...in Your Vehicle's..."Fuse Panel or Box"...cuz, if one or more, of the Vehicle's Wiring Circuits or Electrical Components, shall we say..."Overloads or Shorts-out"...that my Friend, can cause a..."Fuse to Blow" (as in, go Poof...!!!), and, that "Blown/Bad Fuse", will..."Stop All Electricity"...From..."Flowing Through that particular Electrical Circuit"..!!!...and maybe, just maybe, that might be, one of the possible..."Culprits"...that could, possibly be, what's causing, the "No-Spark" Problem, that You seem to be having...???....................I have a few Videos, on, how to do..."Ohms (Resistance) Testing"...of some Different "Types" of "Ignition Coils", on my KZread Channel....RockysRoadshow...enjoy.................................So then, that's about it, for the time being, and..........................Till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@wildboy92004

9 жыл бұрын

RockysRoadshow I'll check it out. I took Auto Mechanics 1 and 2, and Small Engine Repair in high school some 20 years ago right around the age this truck was popular to work on. I have never tested a coil pack with a multi-meter. All I know is it interrupts the ground for the ignition so if I'm getting no spark out of the coil pack then don't I back step to the ignition module and then the HEI, respectively. I'll watch your tutorials. I was just wondering a quick way to get the coil pack out of the equation and then work on the pieces in the distributor. That ignition module, I wanted to know how to test that to see if it's bad as well with only taking the distributor cap off. Rotor was fine. The question is, how to test for a bad ignition module? 1988 Chevy 1500K 4WD.

@RockysRoadshow

9 жыл бұрын

wildboy92004 Greetings wildboy92004....Congrats, at taking those, Small Engine Repair Courses, as, now, I can see that, You do have some Experience, after all.............................I've, never really "Tested", an "Ignition Module", and, I usually just Replace "One", when "Every-thing-else", in the "Ignition System, seems to "Check Out Ok".............................For some of the "Ignition Modules", Before the Distributors were being "Hooked-Up to Computers", that were Used in some of the Ignition Systems, by Different, North American Manufacturers, had a Testing "Unit", that would be able to "Test", those Older Ignition Modules...................................Also, there are some Folks, that, have found a way or two, to, some-what "Test", those very same, Older, Ignition Modules, with a Multi-Meter, along with, a quite simple Wiring Circuit as well.....................................Just wonderin'...Just How, did Your "Ignition System"..."Quit/Stop Working on You"...as in..."Gradually Failing"...like having the Engine..."Miss-Firing"...or...being..."Hard to Start...Hot or Cold"...or...did Your Engine just..."Quit, all of a Sudden, without Any Warning at all...???...as that, in itself, can/might, be, a very Good "Clue", as to what-"it"-just-might-be-that's-Causin'-all-of-this-Trouble-that-Ur-havin'...perhaps...............................There are "Rare" times, where, although, an..."Ignition Coil Checks Out Ok"...while doing an "Ohms/Resistance Test", with a Multi-Meter, Set for the Correct, Ohms Scale/Range, for/on, both, the "Primary and Secondary, Coil Windings of Wire", that are Hiding, Inside Your Ignition Coil, where-by, that Affected/Not so Good, Ignition Coil, might start, Not Working so Good, and maybe, Stop Working, All-Together, once it Heats Up-To, Operating Temperature or Higher................................................................................Did You "Look-at/Inspect" the Carbon Button"..."Inside"...Your..."Distributor Cap"...???....................................Besides a Faulty "Ignition Module" (if it "is" Faulty, that is...???)...then, Here's what I usually Do, to Check-Out, the Ignition System, much like the "One", that You have there............................................................Make Sure, that, I'm getting, about "12 Volts" there-abouts, at the Ignition Coil's..."Disconnected"..."12 Volt Supply Wire", where "it" Plugs-Into the Ignition Coil, having the Ignition Switch, in the "RUN"..."NOT START"...Position.............................Having All Wires, Disconnected, from the Ignition Coil, Check the Ignition Coil's..."Primary Coil Windings", and "Secondary Coil Windings", with an Ohm-Meter, and, Make Sure, that, those Ohms Readings, are "With-in the Specifications", for that "Exact" Ignition Coil......................................Check the Ohms/Resistance of the "Pick Up Coil", and, that, the Ohms Readings, are "With-In the Specifications", for that "Exact" Pick Up Coil"...................................Ohms Check, the (spark plug-like), "Lead/Wire", that "Connects Between", the Ignition Coil's, Secondary, High Voltage "Tower", and the "Distributor Cap", as, I've had, One of those, on an Engine, that had the Lead's/Wire's, Conductive "Core"...Electrically..."Arc/Disintegrate"...where "it" should have been..."Positively/Mechanically...Connected"...to the..."Metal End Terminal"....that's Inside the, Rubber/Silicone type..."Boot"...that's at the End of, that there Lead/Wire....................................Check "ALL...Wiring Connections", and, Make Sure that, ALL Connections, Are Clean and Dry...!!!....................................Even "if"...???...You happen to Buy and Install, a Brand New "Ignition Module", and, by doing so, Doesn't Fix the Problem, then, You'll have what I have, and that is..."A Spare Ignition Module"..."In Stock"...that is probably Ok...and is Readily Available, for some time in the Future, if need be, that is...!!!...lol.................................I think, that they cost about $50.00 (50 Dollars) there-abouts, so, it's not all that bad after all....................................If any of Your "Ignition Parts" happen to Look Questionable at all, "They" really should be Replaced with New Parts, or, Not Wanted Problems, just might happen......................Are You making any Progress at all...???......................Well, Till next time....................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

not much vacuum at idle, LOL!

@RockysRoadshow

9 жыл бұрын

jay mak Greetings jay mak....Thanks for watching, and for, Your comment as well....................................................You were sayin', that, You didn't have much Vacuum at Idle...???..................................................I'm thinkin', that, Your Low Vacuum at Idle, could be, being caused by a few things.....................................................Perhaps Your Engine has a..."Performance Camshaft"...with maybe..."Lots of Overlap"...and maybe even..."Lots of Duration"...as well, which will usually, make for a rather,..."Low Vacuum Signal"...at..."Idle Speed".......................................................Maybe even, something like a..."Vacuum Hose"...has, become..."Detached"...from a..."Fitting or Connection point"...perhaps...???............................................"Ignition Timing"...that is, shall we say..."A Bit on the Late Side" (retarded timing, as opposed to, advanced Ignition Timing), might also, make for, a rather..."Low Vacuum Signal"...as well.........................................................If You are finding, that, the..."Not Much Vacuum at Idle"...that You were sayin', that You had, was being, somewhat of a Problem for You, just let me know, all that You can, about Your..."Engine and Vehicle"..."Any Upgrades or Modifications...and, I will do what I can, to help You out, if possible.............................................................Thanks again for watching...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@tpcoachfix

4 жыл бұрын

You have high vacuum at idle.

That was painful.

I've never heard anyone refer to 1500 as one comma five hundred. Who the heck even says that?!

can't this be tested thru the tach lead on the cap?

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

+Justin Strausberg Greetings Justin Strausberg....Thanks for watching......................The only way, to take an "Accurate"..."Ohm-Reading" (resistance), with an Ohm-meter/Multi-meter, would be, to..."Disconnect"...the...Pickup Coil's..."Connector", that Connects to the Ignition Control Module, then, Connect the Meter's 2-Probes, to the 2 Connection Terminals, that are in that very same Disconnected Connector, and, it would be a good idea, to Wiggle those 2 Wires, while taking that Ohms/Resistance Reading as well, just in case, there might be a Break, of sorts, inside, either of those 2 Wires, cuz, over quite some time, while the Vacuum Advance Canister/Unit is pulling on, and relaxing, so many times, while the Engine is running, those 2 Pickup Coil Wires, sure do get "Flexed Lots of Times"...!!!............................Till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

but my multimeter don't have a 2k ohm test only a ohm symbol test

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Mateo Villanueva................Thanks for watching.................Are You Ohms-Testing an HEI Ignition Coil, or an HEI Pickup Coil...???.......................For the HEI Ignition Coil, Your Ohm Meter, has to Ohms-Measure, from Zero Ohms, to about 1 Ohm "Accurately"...!!!...and for the Secondary side of the Ignition Coil, 20,000 (20-K), or a bit more, should be Ok....................To Ohms-Measure the HEI, Factory/Stock Pickup Coil, all that is needed, is, from about 500 Ohms to about 2,000 (2-K) Ohms, as, most of those particular Pickup Coils, seem to be, between about 700 Ohms, to about 1500 Ohms, and.............till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@w41duvernay

7 жыл бұрын

Would you have any idea how to get a new distributor pickup coil for a HEI 7 pin 1986 Pontiac Firebird 305 distributor? I need a new one.

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...w41duvernay...............Thanks for watching...............To test the Ohms/Resistance, of Your HEI's, 7-Pin ICM/Ignition Control Module equipped, Distributor's..."Pickup Coil"...then, it should be quite easy (most times)...................You'll probably be able to see a "2-Wire Connector", that's connected to Your Module, that will have 2-Wires coming out of it, that will go towards the Center/Middle, of the Distributor, where those same 2-Wires, also connect to the "Pickup Coil"...................It's just a matter, of Disconnecting/Removing, that 2-Wire Connector, and then, connect the Ohm-Meter's Probes, to the 2-Wire Connector, and take an Ohm Reading.................Try to find the actual Ohm "Specifications", for Your HEI's "Exact" Pickup Coil, just to be sure.................Somewhere, oh, about...500 to 1500 Ohms, were the Numbers that I recall, from, a while back.....................It's a good idea, to "Flex/Bend" the Pickup Coil's, 2 Wires, while doing the Ohms Testing, cuz, whenever the Vacuum Advance Canister (that be, that, spaceship lookin' thing, that stuck on the distributor...lol), is moving the Pickup Coil, then, those 2-Wires, sure do get Flexed/Bent, Lots of times, like You wouldn't believe...!!!...and, might Weaken, (maybe Break), 1 or 2 of those 2 Pickup Coil Wires (internally), and I hope not..................It's also a very good idea, whenever working on, or near, any Electronic Chip/s (that might also, be hiding inside Ur Module), to be Touching, something made out of Metal, that's cool, and not moving, quite regularly, to Discharge, any Static Electricity, that Your Body, may have stored up, cuz, if that, quite powerful, Static Electricity gets Discharged, into, just about any Electronic Chip, then sometimes, that poor ole Electronic Chip, gets Fried (as in Destroyed), just so You know.....................So, before You go out and spend Money on a New Pickup Coil, make sure, that, the one that's in there now, is actually, no good...................If You do need a New Pickup Coil, for Your HEI Distributor, then, "Make Sure", that, You get the Correct, "Exact" one, for Your "Exact" HEI Distributor, cuz, there are quite a few, "Different" ones, out there..................You might find some Numbers, and/or Letters, "Stamped Into", the HEI's, Aluminum Body's, Largest Diameter (just under, where the distributor Cap sits), and, those Numbers, and/or Letters, are Your "Exact", HEI Distributor's, shall we say, Model Identity, perhaps..................Make note, of the Colors, of the 2-Wires, that are connected to the Pickup Coil, as that can help, as well.................There are Lots of Automotive Parts Retailers out there, that should be able to get a Pickup Coil, for Your HEI Distributor, but, I doubt, that, they'll have any in stock, so, You'll probably have to Order One (in)....................Then, if that fails, there's always, the good ole EBAY Website, where You'll be able to find, just about anything, under the Sun, and then some...!!!...lol...................So, if need be, maybe, make a few Phone Calls, and ask around, for Your "Exact" Pickup Coil...................Good Luck, and.........till next time..........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

@w41duvernay

7 жыл бұрын

The problem I'm having is we installed a new hi performance module and coil, and cam in a LG$ 86 firebird. We got weak spark, when I put the new module it almost split in half the module harness. I want to replace both the harness and the pickup as well, to make sure everything works correctly.

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...w41duvernay................Here are a few things, that might be of some help to You...............Make sure, that You are getting about 12 Volts (aka, battery voltage), at the (Wire) Connector, while Disconnected, that plugs into Your HEI's Distributor Cap, having the ignition Key, in the Run (Not Start...!!!) Position...................HEI Distributor, "Ignition Coils and Modules", should really be, shall we say, a "Perfect Match", for each other...!!!...cuz, if not, You might end up with a Weak Spark, or maybe, the Module, and/or Ignition Coil, might "Overheat", and go "Poof", and not work any more...!!!..................Did You buy the Performance "Module and Ignition Coil" as a "Matched (for each other) Set"...???....cuz, that alone, is Super Important...!!!....................Did You apply some "Heat Transferring Specific Paste", to the Bottom of the "Module", before Installing it on the base of the HEI's aluminum Body...???....cuz, if not, then, the Module, probably won't be able to "Transfer", the "Heat", that it generates while working, and will usually Overheat, and go "Poof"...!!!..................GMC/Chevy, factory stock, Low Compression Engines, with an HEI Distributor, will usually have about .045" (four-tee-five thousandths of an inch), spark plug Gap/s....................Whenever the spark plug Gap gets LARGER, along with a Higher Compression Ratio, then, the Ignition Coil (and maybe the Module as well...???), have to Work, much More/Harder, to create, an acceptable Spark, that makes-for, a good Combustion event, as far as I see it, that is.....................You have to make sure, that, the Carbon Button and Rubber-like Washer, are Installed Correctly, into the top of the HEI's Distributor Cap..................Sometimes, the Ignition Coil Mounting Screws, can "Pierce-Through", and into, the Inside of the Distributor Cap, so, check that as well...!!!................There are even Nylon (plastic...???) Screws, that I've seen, that replace the 2 Screws, that hold the (HEI's Distributor's) "Rotor", to the top of the Advance Mechanism (You know, the advance weights and springs location), that, in theory, prevent the High Voltage/Sparks, that are found, inside the Distributor Cap, from making their way, to (electrical) "Ground", by way of, the Distributor Shaft itself...!!!! (through those 2 Metal screws)...how about that.................If the Pickup Coil looks Ok, and it Tests, at about, 500 to 1500 Ohms, then, that's a good start..................If the HEI Distributor, is out of the Engine, and, if You were to hook up the Pickup Coil, while still mounted in the HEI, by itself, at the Connector, to a Multi-meter, and set it to, I think it's Low AC Volts...???...and Spin the Gear, by Hand, very Fast, then, You should be able to see a small AC Voltage, being produced, if I recall correctly, that is...???......................So, the "Ignition Coil"...and the..."Module"...have to "Match" Each Other (aka, get along with each other, so they don't start Fighting each other, and perhaps Over-Heat, as a result...!!!...lol)...and keep an eye, on the spark plug "Gap" Size, and don't let it get too BIG...!!!..................If You happen to need any more help at all, just give me a shout, and.............till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Engine have a LOT of vacuum at idle. None at WOT

@RockysRoadshow

6 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Ryan Hamm.........Thanks for watching.........Well, you are right, generically speaking, that is.........More like, there will be quite a bit of, intake manifold or plenum vacuum at idle speed, which will usually be dictated by the camshaft, as in, a stock engine's camshaft, will produce lots of idle speed vacuum, where-as, a very aggressive camshaft, won't usually have, all that much, vacuum at idle speed, and sometimes, not even enough vacuum (signal), to, be able to, run a vacuum brake booster...!!!...yikes...!!!...lol...........Also, there's usually a little bit of vacuum at WOT (Wide Open Throttle), as in, some carburetor manufacturers, rate their 4-Barrel carburetors, at about 1.5 Hg (inches of mercury, on the vacuum gauge), and, a 2-Barrel carburetor, at about 3 Hg (as I recall)...........All Ya gotta do, is hook up an "accurate" Vacuum Gauge, to the intake manifold, or, the Plenum, as the case may be, and, see what the vacuum gauge reads, at idle speed, when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temperature..........Then, do a WOT run, on a safe (legal...lol) road, or, on a Dyno (Dynamometer), and see, what the "real" vacuum reading, actually is, oh, and, look Ma, no more "guessing" any-more...lol...and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

8min to the test part

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

Greetings....Superior Fly Company....Thanks for watching, and...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Late cheventies

@RockysRoadshow

9 жыл бұрын

idusclothing Greetings idusclothing....Thanks for watching, and for, Your very inventive, "New" word, being..."cheventies".................................................Indeed, You are correct, as, is the case, of this particular HEI "Pickup Coil", as it came out of a 1979 HEI Chevy (Chevrolet) Distributor, that was installed, in a 350 cubic inch/5.7 Liter/Litre displacement engine...............................................I be thinkin', to be havin' even more Fun, maybe go back to, the Earlier to Mid 1970's, where, a Person could take off Their Shoes, and and Wiggle Their Toes, in/on some...Wall to Wall..."Shag Carpet"...You know, that "Funky" Carpeting, that had, oh, about..."1" Inch Long..."Strands/Tenticals"...and perhaps with some..."Super Funky Colors" (for some strange reason..."Purple Haze"...comes to mind), as well, that made it possible, for..."Austin Powers"...to be sayin'...something about..."Shag...", oh my, I best not be repeatin' that..."Catch Phrase"...of His...or, in order to pull that one off, I'd probably have to head over to a Thrift Store, to see if I'd be able to find, some..."Sigh-Co-Del-ick"..."Clothing" (Hey..."udusclothing"...don't You...???...lol), in the form of, some kind of "Sports Jacket", and a pair of..."Flood Approved"..."High Water Mark/Tide"..."Pants"...that will be showin', all the trouble that I went to, to find, and put on, some very impressive..."Flashy Sock-Ware" (Hmmmmmm, I always wondered, what the reason be, for such "Short" Pants).................................................Ah yes..."The Good Ole Days"...back when, it was rather "Safe", to Cross the Street, as compared to These Days, where, the Odds are much higher, of being able to Feel, just like a "Bug" does, when it goes..."Splat"..."On Your Windshield"...!!!...............................................Hey, if You can't have Fun, what can You have...???..........................................It's been Fun.......................................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Get to the point bro my phone is gonna die I don't need all the bs just the info I came here for but thanks for the video maybe do some shorts

Midwestern af

not much vacuum at idle? Huh? "@@" !!!

Get to the testing already!!!!!

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

+oldtimer4567 Greetings oldtimer4567....Thanks for watching......................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one,.

my88chev want get fire to distributer.

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...Jamie Wambles.............Thanks for watching............In order, to actually test, an HEI/High Energy Ignition, Distributor\system, such as Yours, probably is, for its Spark output/strength/high voltage ability, (or perhaps, none at all, if it's faulty), is to perform, what is known, as a Spark Test, and it's usually done, with a Spark Testing Tool, some of which, are especially made for/and calibrated for, the General Motors/Chevy/Oldsmobile/etc., type of HEI ignition system, and, one type of HEI Spark Tester, kinda, looks, somewhat like, a Spark Plug does, but, it has a metal cylinder, in place of, where the outer electrode/ground strap, is usually found, on the spark plug................Some of the other types of Spark Testers out there, are adjustable, and the Gap, or distance, between its 2 pointed electrodes, can be set/adjusted-for, the amount of KV's/Kilo-Volts (aka, Kilo, as in Thousands) of Volts, for that "Exact", Ignition Coil's requirements................The "High Voltage", (ball-park figure, is about...30,000 to 50,000...Volts, or maybe higher), that is found, in most Ignition Systems, is "Very Dangerous", so, make sure, that You study up on, and, You know what You are doing, "Before", going anywhere near, the High Voltage side, of a Vehicle's Ignition System...!!!.............If You want to have a look at, some of the affordable (maybe, about, 10 to 20 Dollars there-abouts?), ignition system, "Spark Testers", just do an internet search for...Spark Tester...then select...pictures or images...on Your browser, to see what they look-like, and.......till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Dude, way to much talking. If some one needs all that info they shouldnt be doing it!

@MrTarkus007

5 жыл бұрын

there is people out there that like details so to each his own maybe this video was not meant for you your too intelligent sorry we can't all be like you !!

just get with the friggin test...

@RockysRoadshow

8 жыл бұрын

Clint East Greetings Clint East....Thanks for watching........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

this should have been a 5 minute video.... wayyy to much blab

@RockysRoadshow

7 жыл бұрын

Greetings...skippytodippy23..........Thanks for watching............Maybe, I might (in the future), make another KZread Video, on this very same subject matter, and, might very well be, shorter than 5 Minutes as well...???...and.........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.

Get to the fucking point .