excellent video.

The most common fault with any Heatline is buying one

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

2 жыл бұрын

Agreed. Not the most reliable boilers and parts made of putty.

Great video. Could use one on how to drain the dam thingr :D

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

2 жыл бұрын

I will add a quick video on the simplest way to drain the whole system. Update 03/06/22 video uploaded - how to drain central heating system

very helpful, thank you.

very useful......i have same boiler and same dripping water flow impeller ...very comprehensive...

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

3 жыл бұрын

Glad you found it useful.

Hi this guy is good he should be an engineer to know that .I had 3 people both gas register and with big company and name.behind them. .but they can't not fixing my hot water tap on the combi boiler heatline .please please urge to everyone there is lots Con people out there to Con us. Last engineering he's told me I need it new boiler as this is 6 years old and really not need it a new boiler that what is the problem is just change that and the boiler working like new

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

Жыл бұрын

Hi. I’m glad it saved you £££. I tend to do the diagnosis primarily and get an engineer to repair or replace based on my diagnosis. Reason I do this is because majority do not know how to diagnosis correctly and the simplest get out clause is to replace boiler. Diagnosis is the hardest part, changing a part is simple.

Got a caprice heatline that's looses pressure so hot water and heating a few times a day, has been fine during the summer and did the same last winter, it just got forgot about.

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

Жыл бұрын

For a boiler to lose pressure, there must be a leak somewhere. Firstly, when heating is on check outside on the wall where the boiler is situated to see if there are any drips of water from the overflow pipe. If there’s not leak there, move onto checking everything inside the house. If you have carpet feel the floor around the bottom of the Rads where the pipes are

We have a capriz 28. It leaks when the Rads are off but not so much when they are on. We still have hot water and hot rads. I think its the diverter. Boiler is 10years old, is it worth fixing. We are currently emptying a few buckets a day and having to refill daily.

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

2 жыл бұрын

Is the water leaking beneath the boiler? If so, it is likely that it will be from the diverter valve. In the video @ 1:39 minutes you can see the motor. Usually the part of the diverter valve that leaks is behind this motor. Motor is held in place by a forked retaining pin which slips out. It’s a cheap fix if that’s your only problem.

@Hussain-ch3pr

2 жыл бұрын

@@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805 yeh its leaking beneath and gathers near the control panel pcb area. I've managed to tilt the control panel a little to make the water flow away into a bucket below. HW and rads both work fine, only problem is the leak and having to refill it often especially when rads are off as it leaks more then.

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

2 жыл бұрын

@@Hussain-ch3pr Hi Hussain. It sound to me like it is definitely the front section of the diverter valve. I have uploaded a video titled diverter valve leak repair.

@aftermath3127

7 ай бұрын

🤣🤣🤣 do yourself a faver and grass it get somthing decent

@Hussain-ch3pr

7 ай бұрын

@@aftermath3127 lol replaced it last year.

hello monsur i have a heatline c28 almost the same as yours its been a good boiler upto now i replaced the domestic water heat exchanger and worked great for 2 months until the hot water tap lost its flow so decided to replace the diverter valve and didnt solve the problem what do you recomend to fix the problem please? would be great if you could give me a few pointers

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

2 жыл бұрын

Sounds to me like the problem is with your domestic hot water heat exchanger. Issue is sludge (black) build up which is restricting the flow. I am assuming your cold water tap flows as normal so it wouldn’t be a water pressure problem.

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

2 жыл бұрын

Hi Tony, I will upload a video this weekend outlining how I successfully cleaned a heat exchanger. In the mean time I will try to describe it to you. Get hold of ‘Knock Out Spirits of Salt’, I purchase from Selco. Use gloves, wear goggles and perform the cleaning outdoors. Pour the knockout stuff into the openings (holes) of the heat exchanger and watch the reaction. Leave for 5-10 minutes. Rinse with water and repeat. Test the heat exchanger by holding a hose pipe on one end and check the flow out the other end.

@terryward4162

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your reply.. I did replace the heat exchanger and and the diverter valve already.. but still not getting enough flow on the hot water tap so thought maybe it could be the flow sensor impeller turbine.. what do you think please?

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

2 жыл бұрын

@@terryward4162 I need more info Terry. 1) Is the flow of water good? 2) Is heating working fine? a) If no, then dhw heat exchanger has built up sludge. b) If yes, then you say you’ve replace the diverter valve already, so then it would likely be the flow sensor or the diverter valve motor. Given you said already that you changed heat exchanger and it worked for 2 months and problems reoccurred, indicates the issue is sludge. After cleaning the dhw heat exchanger use some sentinal x800 as per the instructions.

@terryward4162

2 жыл бұрын

@@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805 thankyou so much for you help I will try that

Why didn’t you show changing. Can you take it out without water spilling. Would be good to see and know 😢

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

Жыл бұрын

At the bottom of the boiler, you will need to turn off the cold water inlet. Then turn on the hot water tap at the lowest point in the house, usually the kitchen. This will stop the water. If unsure of the cold water inlet check the manual or you can download off the web to make sure. I hadn’t shown the fixing of the issue as the purpose was to highlight common issues with this boiler.

hi Munsur you seem to know your stuff with these thing's wish i did mine i cant get the bar light to go off i am an electrician by trade so electrically i know what i am doing !!! i have changed the low pressure switch but it was working any way because i checked it with my multi meter and a foot pump it switches ? my blow off high pressure blow off vale started dripping when i was messing about so i changed that also the black rubber inside was all deformed i just changed the the lot ? when it was empty i checked my pressure vessel pumped it up 0.5 bar refilled the system bled all the rad's there's only 4 in my small house i loosened the cap off the back of the pump to let air out nothing came out no water nothing i unscrewed the big silver screw on the front of the pump there was water there is there any other place i have to let air out of ? as i seam to think there is air trapped in my boiler above the pump as to why it wont operate the pressure switch to click shut it is open circuit all the time ? unless i take either the new one or the old one and use a foot pump why wont it close circuit the pressure switch that is ? it's like there is air acting like a sponge as air dose compress water doesn't ? is there another point i need to let ait out some where maybe on the top of the boiler somewhere it mentions 2 place's in my book that kame with the boiler on about first filling up front the start one was the back of the pump the top witch was no problem but as for this other one i have no idea ? many thank's Munsur oh and enjoyed your video watch it twice very good keep us up dated on how you got on with it thank 's once again

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

Жыл бұрын

Hi Josh. Can you briefly outline the symptoms you are having for me please? I always start with the symptoms when attempting a diagnosis.

@johnlishman4946

Жыл бұрын

@@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805 hi there as i said it seem to be a problem inside the black housing behind the pump motor it's self not allowing the switch to get the pressure to switch it/operate it ? any ideas dose that housing come off or can i free it with any other method if i short the pressure switch out the bar light go's out and all is well it flames up pump runs hot water works BUT I ONLY Briefly DONE THIS as i KNOW THERE IS SOMETHING NOT RIGHT ? so i cant leave it like this ? hope that shines a bit more light on the subject thank you

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

Жыл бұрын

@@johnlishman4946 Hi John, I would suggest, as you have already mentioned removing the black assembly (pump body) behind the pump and giving it a thorough clean if you can. To remove: 1) Remove the motor 2) Remove the secondary water-to-water heat exchanger - a) Drain the boiler’s hydraulic circuit, b) Remove the two screws which connect the heat exchanger to hydraulic circuit, c) Remove the exchanger from the gap on the left hand side (bit of a tight squeeze but does come out with some wriggling around) 3) Remove the expansion vessel pipe by removing the clip on the pump body 4) Disconnect the electrical leads of low pressure sensor 5) Disconnect the pumps outlet fitting (copper pipe connection at the top of the pump body) 6) Remove the fixing screws from the pump and hydraulic block at the bottom of the boiler 7) Remove the pump body from the hydraulic assembly by releasing the clip

@johnlishman4946

Жыл бұрын

@@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805 many many thank's Munsur i was hoping you weren't going to say that but if that's what i have to do then so be it i can get a whole new pump complete with the back enclosure for £100:00 i think i might just go for that or do i still have to take the heat exchanger off if i do that ? i hate the small space i have to work in ? not much room at the side of the boiler you see ? especially the right hand side of it grrrrrrr if i had the room it would not be too bad but that's my problem

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

Жыл бұрын

@@johnlishman4946 John, before purchasing anything I would personally say you try to give it a thorough cleaning and reassemble and check if that makes a difference. There isn’t anything mechanical or electronic inside the pump body (the black part behind the pump) to fail. I say this as, if this doesn’t make a difference the likelihood is a fault on the PCB. I don’t normally mess with PCBs, but have often noticed broken solder joints and on resoldering it’s sorted problems.

I have a Heatline Capriz 28e giving this problem. The hot water exchanger, MTC sensors and diverting kit have all been changed. And still the same problem is happening. Does anyone know the answer to fix this pls?

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

3 жыл бұрын

Can you describe the problem you are having? Is it the water dripping from the part shown in this video?

@aftermath3127

7 ай бұрын

yer rip it off the wall and fit a good boiler these are absolute shite lol

Pcb board, printed,circuit,board,board :)

Hi When changing the impeller do you need to drain the system ? Thanks Tony

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

Жыл бұрын

Apologies for the very late reply. You comment got lost amongst the other comments. Anyway. You do not need to drain the whole system. You should have the shit off valves at the bottom of the boiler. Close those. You will still have some excess water within the boiler at that point so have a bowl and plenty of towels to hand. I usually take this as an opportunity to drain the whole system and on refilling add new inhibitor.

@johnlishman4946

Жыл бұрын

no just the boiler turn off your flow &return taps on the bottom of the boiler only empty the boiler its self buddy

My Heatline Compact S24 flame ionisation light is flashing, the boiler does not run, changed PC board, gas valve, ignition cables are new, power light comes on, the ignition works and sounds, attempts to start up twice, but no flame...Can anyone tell me why its not working?

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

3 жыл бұрын

Your fault will be in the ignition sequence cycle. This means that before ignition the system checks for fan and pump are running. I would suggest check to see the fan is running first

@moshak4804

3 жыл бұрын

@@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805 Hi, thanks for your reply and assistance very much appreciated. I've done what you advised, both the fan and pump work fine wiring is good as well, the ignition takes place but the gas doesn't come through for ignition. The pump turns smooth and easy. The jets are clear as well...Still no flame at ignition...

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

3 жыл бұрын

@@moshak4804 I take it your boiler provides heating only right? Also is it a condensing boiler?

@reviewsfixeshacksmunsur3805

3 жыл бұрын

Wanted to add, when you changed the PCB was it with new or used part? Asking as a common issue is dry solder joints.

@m101ist

3 жыл бұрын

I have heatline vizo 24 combi boiler, had the same problem, the flames or gas failure warning light flashing. I reset it the boiler would try and start up a couple times, then stop and the warning light would start flashing. A qualified gas Safe registered engineer change the blue cap on top of the condensate trap and the proplem was solved after the boiler was reset. It's a safety feature. According to the user instruction manual, the condensate trap bottom part should be filled with 50 cc. of water before you use the boiler installation. If the trap overfill for some reason the contacts on the blue cap will short out the ionisation electrodes flame sensor. If that's not the cause then it could be the ionisation electrodes corrosion on the end itself, Which I learnt from combi boiler tutorials. This is a suggestion. I A'M NOT QUALIFY, THIS IS MY DISCLAIMER. So have a qualified gas Safe registered engineer to see if this the cause of the problem if you haven't already found the problem. If so, of interest I would like to know what was the cause. 🙄