Thank you very much SimpleTronic for sharing this great technique. I leave here my advice to all who intend to experiment. Before beginning the process, read all the relevant posts. Start by finding the right mix (Ethyl Alcohol 96% and Pure Acetone), make small tests before starting your printed circuit, save time and you will not feel frustrated. I started with 3/8 proportions as shown in the video, I used 240g Glossy Photo Paper for inkjet printer purchased at a Chinese store, the printing was done on a professional Xerox printer in a store (I do not have a laser printer). The quality of the toner is very good, with the ratio of 3/8 not even dissolved the toner, so I decided to start lowering the Alcohol percentage until I get an excellent result (perfect, 100% transfer). In my case the percentage was 3/2, the dimensions of the PCB are 200mm x 100mm, as advised for these dimensions, I placed a cloth on top and a board on top of the cloth, put weight well distributed, I waited about 20 minutes and the magic It happened. I put it in water, waited 30 minutes, the paper is thick, I removed the paper carefully, and with the finger rubbed carefully the paper that was stuck until it came out completely, I used vinegar as was mentioned by someone here, and the result after exposed to Ferric Chloride, was an excellent printed circuit, without failures. Do not forget something very important, more important than getting a good printed circuit, do this process in a well ventilated place and be careful with the handling of the Acetone, it is really very dangerous the contact with the eyes, read the procedures before starting the process, do not forget that vapors are quite harmful to health, so it is important that you use a quick method to find the right mix for the toner you are using. I apologize for my bad english and thanks to all those who gave some important tips.

@simpletronic1299

7 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the contribution !

@narcisosilva6311

7 жыл бұрын

You're right, I was so excited that I forgot to say. Vinegar is used to remove scraps of paper.

@junreytulabing2833

6 жыл бұрын

sir what kind of paper usually used to printed

@orides5976

5 жыл бұрын

Thank you. Are you from Brasil?

@luisdardis5223

5 жыл бұрын

ty for the info i will try this set!!

Absolutely the BEST video-tutorial on this subject, very well explained and tremendously effective. Many many thanks SimpleTronic!

Incredible. Best KZread vid ever. I used methylated spirits and acetone to your ratios.

Thank you for sharing and demonstrating this technique. I'm a high school jewelry instructor. I was madly looking for a simple and effective way to transfer images to metal in order to etch. I was able to recreate this technique very well and will be able to teach it to my students. When I make my instructional video, I will be sure to give you a shout out. Thank you kindly!

@simpletronic1299

6 жыл бұрын

Your comment makes me very happy !!

wow, amazing. I did this method using basic nail polish remover and it transferred great. This was a relief after 4 failed attempts with a hot iron. I haven't etched yet but it looks like my board should turn out fine. fingers crossed! thanks for the awesome video!

I could kiss you for this. I tried the iron method. It was a joke. I am a very happy camper. I did get the proportions wrong and used 8 parts acetone and 3 parts 91% alcohol but worked . Next time I may change the formula and try again but had great results regardless. Thank you so much. I only used magazine paper also. Taped a piece big enough for the transfer onto a plain piece of copy paper and ran thru laser printer. HP . Worked great !!!

@simpletronic1299

4 жыл бұрын

Hi! Thanks for commenting, and for your contribution !

3:02 was very satisfying to watch

Thanks for saving me from burned fingers and shoddy results! Excellent video :D

I can't thank you enough! Using an iron yielded decent results but if I wasn't careful it would smear. It took me about 10 tries until I found the right mixture of ethyl, acetone and timing. Plus, using vinegar as mentioned by Guillermo Martin got me a very CLEAN transfer to copper. Thank you very much for sharing this gem of a tip!

@simpletronic1299

8 жыл бұрын

Great! , thanks for commenting !!

It worked! It is so much easier than the iron technique. Wow! I used methylated spirits and pure acetone and it worked well.

@kesterbelgrove818

3 жыл бұрын

I upgraded to using Sally Hansen's nail polish remover. No mixing of acetone and alcohol needed, just use the Sally Hansen's and it works with no issues

Another day, another new thing learned! Thanks a lot for sharing your 15 years proven technique!!!

I followed several videos and wasted dozens of copper boards before I found your video... First go using your method and boom! Perfect results. Thanks for the great video.

@simpletronic1299

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you !

Good one. I usually detest ppl who does toner transfer since it's the worst way of doing it. But this was a very good alternative that no one seems to be using that seems simpler. The best way is still pre-coated positive photo resist boards though and regular OH-paper to transfer the pcb.

so glad i found this before i start using the toner method. SWEET!!!!!!!!!

The best way for transferring. Amazing!

My friend, I would have never thought of this. Thank you

For me, this video is the best advice for this process.

You're the man. Thanks for a great technique and fast, well explained video.

Most satisfying video on pcb tone transfer method.! And simplest too.!! After trying other methods, with failure... this method works like magic... proportions of liquid is different but works te best...

I just can't thumbs up this enough times. The 50/50 ratio dribbled onto the back of the paper taped on, then after several seconds run it through a unmodified laminator has produced 100% transfer with no smearing or defects. I am getting high quality results this way. Thank you very much.

After many tries with laminator or iron and using a plenty of different types of paper (both matte and glossy), I have found this video: the method it shows is surprisingly easy and it works fine for me where any other heating based process has failed!

@souvikmondal8575

11 ай бұрын

I also try the heat method many times but it fails maximum time...but I want to know is this process really works.....???

Priceless knowledge. Wow! Thank you very much. God bless you. Greetings from Indonesia

great job ,we Thank you so much for sharing..from Algeria.

Love it!!!! always a smarter way of doing things..

Brilliant, Thanks SimpleTronic for sharing this knowledge

Thank you! I've tried different methods with varying results, but this one worked perfectly on the first try.

Very simple for a great result. It's well done. Thank you for this video. It's the method i use for my PC boards and it works well.

Nice video! Helped me so much and thank you for your time publishing it. I have few things to add, though: 1) Its ofter better to spread the alcohol and acetone mix over the paper before you lay it in the board. 2) I do not wait for solvents to evaporate as it may dry the paper and make it lift from the copper. I just put it in water seconds before it.

Thanks a lot for this video¡ I was constantly failing to achieve good results with the iron and then I found this, thank you good sir¡

Worked Out perfectly for me on glossy laser Photo Papier with exactly the same recipe as in the video. It even works for large (250 mm x 10 mm) pcbs. Thank you for Sharing😀

What a great technique!!! I used 100% Acetone on a print out from brand new laser printer model 1102....the result was unmatched PCB with zero error!!!!!! Thanks alot !!

@simpletronic1299

8 жыл бұрын

+Amber Nensey Great !! Thanks for the feedback !!

Works perfectly , I mixed 1:1 pure aceton and pure grain alcohol. The printer is HP LJ P1102W. Thank you very much for sharing this, the result is so much better than using iron transfer

Just to inform I just did it with a 50% - 50% mix of rubbing alcohol and pure acetone had to clamp the PCB between 2 wood planks. Waited 5 minutes and then soaked in water. BTW I have been doing this since the first time I saw it about 2 years ago with success with nail polish but now nail polish has become expensive where I live so is better for me the rub alcohol and pure acetone mix. Kudos to you for this method!

@darkracer1252

5 жыл бұрын

nailpolish and acetone are the same thing. sooo

Amazing use of chemistry. 👌

It's Worked.Thank you very much for sharing such a valuable idea.

Works great, thanks for sharing, I never had success with heat...

You are great sir. How wonderful the result is.

Very simple and easy way, I will try it, thanks for sharing. :)

Perfect tecnic. Great tutorial.

Thanks for sharting this approach. I was using heat iron-transfer so far, and once a while nail polish remover. I tried your way, used methyl-alcohol (available in each store) and acetone 2:1. Looks like it is working. I need to practise more to get the right grip.

Thanks it was very cool and helpful solution

Wow, I have to try this tomorrow!

Ferric Chloride. A man after my own heart. I am going to give this a shot, though I am nervous about the selection of the paper. I've tried every kind out there and it wasn't until I found pulsar paper that I was able to get to 0.5mm spacing on my parts.

@GeoffintheGarage

7 жыл бұрын

Have you ever tried glossy magazine paper? I heave heard it works well. Hoping to try it this weekend.

@TECHNICALIQ

6 жыл бұрын

The paper called art paper 30

Ok, I ran my first tests of this method just mere moments ago and my results on the third attempt are simply glorious. Here's what I did: 8 parts Wal Mart 92% Isopropyl, 3 parts Klean Strip acetone. I mixed it in an old nail polish remover bottle for storage. I printed my board art onto Kodak gloss Photo Paper, Cat No. 820 9017 using a Samsung ML-1660 laser printer. Note that this paper is meant for INKJET printers. I have a lot of it, so I used it, and I make no apologies. I cut and cleaned the piece of copper clad board using 1000 grit sandpaper, acetone, then alcohol. I cut out the board art exactly to fit the piece of copper clad board, laid it next to it on a piece of wood plank, then doused the *printed artwork* with a small amount of the alcohol-acetone mix, making sure to coat it evenly. Before it could dry at all, I flipped it quickly over, facing down, and laid it onto the copper clad board piece. Working quickly, I rubbed it all over with my fingers, pressing as hard as I could go downward. I tried to avoid lateral motion, focusing on downward pressure. Work work work massage massage etc, and then placed a small piece of wood plank over it and put all my weight into it for about maybe ten seconds. Removed the wood, resumed pressing down hard all over with my fingers. Note, at NO POINT did I clamp anything. This whole process of hard downward massaging took maybe 30 - 40 seconds, and by that point the whole thing was pretty much dried out. I let it sit open for a couple of minutes anyway just to be sure, and then took it to the sink and soaked it under a hot water stream for a minute or two. Took a deep breath, sucked up my courage, and peeled the photo paper free of the board. Holy frickin moly... the toner stuck BEAUTIFULLY. Only missed in two tiny places, scarcely even noticeable. All the rest of it actually appeared to have dilated a bit, adhering aggressively and looking slightly smooshed out. When it dried, all the artwork turned a brilliant white, as it had grabbed quite a lot of paper fiber with it. I laid the board down in a small dish of white vinegar, and rubbed with my thumbs vigorously over the board surface. Quite a lot of paper fiber scum came free, and the dilation effect *all went away*, leaving pristine, perfect copy of the original artwork, still very strongly stuck to the board. I can't stress this part enough - the adherence is incredibly strong, far stronger than anything I'm used to with thermal transfer of any kind. There is no smear, no cracking, no pitting that I can see, no flaws except for those two tiny places that don't matter anyway. It looks absolutely brilliant, one of my best transfers to date. Yeah, it's that good, and I've been doing PCBs since uhhh the late 80's. I haven't etched it yet... Going to do it tonight though so I don't have to worry about oxidization on the bare copper metal. I'll be back to do an update on the results. BTW I always use peroxide and HCl to etch, if that matters to anyone. Quick Note: Scrubbing with vinegar doesn't seem to be necessary. I had missed some places that turned white again when the board dried, so I simply scrubbed at them gently with a toothbrush under tap water. Worked great, and again, none of the actual toner seems to want to budge *at all.* It's stuck to the board *really* strongly. Update: I etched the board in 50% Hydrogen Peroxide and Hydrocholic Acid (typical Muriatic acid) and it worked out beautifully. I was expecting pitting because that's been my general experience with any transfer method that uses paper (I was using sign cutter vinyl for thermal toward the end, doesn't make pits at all) but this method produced beautiful, solid traces and print. I do notice a slight bit of dilation on the text, but it's very slight, only maybe a tenth of a millimeter worth. The rest is beautiful, with no cracks, pits or smears. As I mentioned before, two tiny places for some reason got missed during the transfer process, not sure why, and of course those parts were also missing in the etch because obviously no resist mask present. But, they're unimportant and won't have any effect on the device. The rest of the copper came out so nicely that i doubt if I'll ever do thermal again. I feel that it's good to have multiple board making skills nailed down, but this works *really* well. A huge thank you to SimpleTronic for sharing this with us all, and for helping me to finally be free of my never ending chase of that White Whale. :-)

@alexanderkartsonakis

4 жыл бұрын

Finally someone mentioned isopropyl alcohol! I'm expecting my HP express 1200dpi tommorow and I was wondering if you've tried the same solution using plain 80 paper. I think Kodak inkjet papers and trial and error included, might cost more than my local pcb guy. Any ideas?

@youronlinepresencepro9348

3 жыл бұрын

Thank you for the comprehensive comment! My Glossy Inkjet paper didn't work but good old Magazine paper did! 😁

@NightRunner417

3 жыл бұрын

@@youronlinepresencepro9348 You're welcome! Funny thing is, it's been a long time since I did any board making and I've forgotten all the specifics of how I did it the last time. I'm wanting to produce a couple of small boards for a project and I've been thinking, "Uhhh man... I really wish I kept notes!" Turns out I did, right? Totally forgot I ever made that comment, and lo and behold I included all the important stuff. If you hadn't replied, I'd still be wondering where to start. Thank you! Also, glad I could help. The acetone/alcohol method really is a Godsend once you nail down a good procedure for yourself. :-)

@youronlinepresencepro9348

3 жыл бұрын

NightRunner417 I'm so happy I reminded you!! 😂😂

I have always used hot iron method and even found the perfect paper. I use a magazine paper and best I found was the £2 magazine/catalogue from the store NEXT. I print down to 150mil size with no issues, I will try this method even though I have great success with the hot method. This guy should be commend If he has found a better and easier method.

I have been looking for a simpler way to transfer circuit prints to copper-clad boards. I like your chemical reaction approach. I will be sure to try this out as soon as I am able. If it works as you say it does, it's incredible! Possibly the best way I've seen demonstrated anywhere on the internet.

Thanks for share your precious experience

thanks from Brazil

Congratulations, a great video.

i tested this method amazing way thank you

Tried it with denatured alcohol and also works just fine. As Chuck Adams mentions the HP laser toner are very hot and don't transfer very well with a laminator as I soon found out and went back to the iron. I have been having better success with this method and works well. I took 2 pieces of 1/2 inch cold rolled steel (3" by 3") and laid the pc on top of one along with the artwork face down on the pc board then soaked the artwork/paper with solution then put the other block on top for a minute or so. Upon removing wiped off excess solution and pressed image lightly to make sure it got a bond. a few minutes later it was dry them immersed in water and peeled off. Etched just fine and was also 0805 SMD. Image will smash if too much pressure is applied. Also just used a page out of an old magazine to print the image on. Very happy Thanks

I will definitely be trying this.

Genius idea. Originally, I made cards with iron heat transfer then used acetone to remove black toner after etching. Should have realized do transfer with acetone ;D. I used slick magazine pages for iron transfer and did decent jobs. After reading your idea I tried acetone and print did not come off magazine pages so will use this paper. Will also experiment with using a laminator on low heat. Hope it doesn't smudge. Thank you for sharing!

Amazing... Thanks for sharing. I will try

It worked great!!! Thanks you so much you are te man!

Thank you very useful video!:)

Awesome, thanks for sharing.

thank you very much.really awesome.

Work very well, thanks ;)

Worked great. Thanks!

Excellent technique loads of thanks for sharing. Perfectly transfers to pcb. Nice work a 👍 to Uuuhh

Quem for do Brasil pode usar somente o removedor de esmalte de unha a base de acetona que dá certo tb.

I just love it . Thanks a lot!

Good method , Thanks a lot to share.

You sir, you are awesome!

Thank you so much for sharing

Just did my first small scale test on this process. Looking really good. As advertised all the toner came off onto the copper with none left on the paper (standard glossy from the copy shop). One problem is that the nail polish remover beaded up on the copper which would not work well on a larger board. I will try spraying that mix onto the paper with it laying face up, and put the copper on top of that face down. I think that will work better. Note: Don't use denatured alcohol as it removes the toner.

Superbe vidéo , merci

Thanks for the great video

That is absolutely briliant. And as i see, there is no photopaper gloss residue as it happens sometimes between low pitch traces. I'm just hoping that local photopaper quality will not dissolve in proposed solution, thanks!

Nice description !

wow esto es totalmente nuevo para mi muchas felicidades, lo voy a intentar, saludos

Super job

Works fine. Thanks

What a great video! Thanks for that idea, that's much easier than ironing

I must try this!!

Designed my first PCB earlier this week, going to try this tonight instead of the ironing method. I already have both ingredients at home, just need to pick up some copper clad on the way home. Giving this a tentative like for now, its permanence dependent upon my results ;)

@urdnal

7 жыл бұрын

After getting spotty results with some matte-ish photo laser paper (and probably not enough scouring), I tried with plain paper and got results that were... less spotty. A perfect transfer in 90% then almost nothing in others. Pressure was even (pressed with a cold iron) as was the spread of the solvent. Too little time? Dunno but I'll keep at it. Much cleaner lines than with the hot iron.

Thanks it so simple

I have tried thinners and alcohol it works perfect for me

Great tutorial thx!

Thank you for sharing!

Works! I used no mixture, just nail acetone. Result was perfect!

@cobyboy383

7 жыл бұрын

That liquid to remove nail paint, right?

@arsenico78

7 жыл бұрын

yes, acetone paint nail remover

@cobyboy383

7 жыл бұрын

Thank you!! :)

@user-pc3zd6mt5s

7 жыл бұрын

you didn't use alcohol at all? can you tell me how you did it? like where did you put the acetone on the paper or between the paper and the board

@arsenico78

7 жыл бұрын

No alcool. You must put acetone on the board and immediately put the paper on it and press. When acetone totally evaporates put the board under water and gently peel paper off of the board.

Did this not work for me. Might be the formulation of the toner in my printer - I did notice that when I cleaned some previous examples with 100% acetone, the toner did not dissolve nearly as fast as yours. I'm having good luck with magazine paper and even the coated paper used for mass mailings, and the iron method. Iron set to wool ~165C and applying heat for about 2 minutes. Magazine paper falls apart quickly in water. Thanks for posting, always fun to try something new.

That is brilliant! Thanks for sharing. What type transfer paper are you using?

Thank you my friend，very useful INF

You order me to try this technic. And I will!

Just to update anyone on this technique, for best results I use Sally hansen nail polish remover and press firmly on the entire print until dry, it works like a charm, no mixing of anything it just works

Thank you, for sharing.

this is just what i was looking for you did know you could use this technic for other means like for example you could print out a dashboard for knobs and controlers and so and just print it on to the metal with this method

good, I will try

Using the nail polish remover method is the best, because it is easy, comfortable and more accurate

@ilhemedu31

3 жыл бұрын

Its the same composition. Glycerine is used in it..to ovoid fast evaporation👍👍🇩🇿🇩🇿

I guess the most important tool here is the paper. I have tried with many types of paper and yes, magazine paper is the best. Also the toner quality is very important too. If your paper and toner are OK, result will be OK. Ironing or acetone, no matter !

muy bueno... ahora a conseguir acetona...

Thank you.

I like this clip and explanation very much (have been using the iron for quite some time). I now used THIS balanced method, with alcohol and aceton but the toner (from HP Laser-printer) just STAYS on the glossy paper and doesn’t at all come off. Can you please let me know what I am missing or maybe doing wrongTHNX! 🙏

Thank you for contribution.

@simpletronic1299

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for your comment ! :-)

Hi, at minute 3:09 I have noticed the presence of residues of paper between the tracks that will surely hinder the copper removal. How can you eliminate them before the etching process? Thank you. Great job!

very good

very nice

Today, I made my first PCB using your technique. It's GREAT ! Thank you ! Pessoal que mora no Brazil: Comprei álcool absoluto(99,3%) e Acetona pura em um comércio de produtos químicos, a BHerzog, no centro do Rio de Janeiro. Usei um papel específico para transfer a quente. que eu tinha guardado aqui em casa há uns 7 anos. Funcionou muito bem. O papel se soltou sozinho, deixando 100% do toner na placa. Nem em meus sonhos tinha feito uma transferência tão perfeita e sem falhas.

@simpletronic1299

7 жыл бұрын

muito obrigado e feliz ano novo !

@thearvie

7 жыл бұрын

Tentei com álcool 92.8 e Acetona pura, até agora os resultados são bons, mesmo com papel A4 normal, amanhã vou tentar com transfer. Estou usando uma impressora Brother laser colorida e os químicos comprei por 30 reais os dois na Cloroquímica, em Curitiba :)

@railtonsilva2009

6 жыл бұрын

Ricardo bom dia. qual foi as proporções da mistura que voce usou?