Worth a mention that the last method (pulling down on the end of the rope) will only be effective for tube style belay devices, and also pay, attention to the rope going over the edge and protect it if necessary.

What great little video (Alan Halewood) just wondering how many takes it took....not a word out of place!!! Excellent! Hollywood next!

Good video - the best I've found so far on abseil technique (might be tempted to turn the music down a bit, particularly in the earlier sections, though).

Very good instructional video. Tnx!

Another use for the prussik is that aside from a backup, you can load it deliberately if you want to do something with both hands (awkward/stubborn gear removal, etc). You can tie an overhand on a bight in the dead rope as an extra safety precaution and allow the prussik to hold the rope while you work.

I always weight the rappel setup before pulling the original anchor.

Isn't it super important (or at least good practice) to girth hitch your tether (in this case a dyneema/spectra sling) to your hard points instead of your belay loop, as the belay loop doesn't handle wear and tear and rubbing from soft goods well but handles carabiners/metal adequately? Or is that a rumor/myth that got started in my climbing circles? I'm sure it depends on harness/manufacturer, but I thought I heard a story where a climber died because a belay loop failed after being worn down over time by using it to girth/basket hitch attach nylon/dyneema slings. Especially if you're using the belay loop to attach both the sling and the backup friction hitch. Lmk, I keep seeing abseiling/rappeling explanation vids with what I see as a technical error, but I am not sure who is right

@ciepularys

3 жыл бұрын

Its better to attach sling to the two loops.

@eyescreamcake

3 жыл бұрын

Yep, that's how Todd Skinner died. "Ordinarily, this loop is unbreakable, but Todd had girth hitched his daisy chains directly to his loop. Because the loop wasn’t free to rotate, every time he moved up in his jumars, the loop chafed against his leg-loop strap in the exact same place. The many, many thousands of feet he jugged eventually sawed through his belay loop."

@chamonix4658

2 жыл бұрын

either works, petzl recommends either technique. belay loop is very strong and Todd Skinners was already very worn out his partner said

Why did you put an overhand knot in the cows tail at the beginning given that slings are so much weaker with knots?

@chamonix4658

2 жыл бұрын

if you put enough force to break your knotted sling on a rappel you have probably already shattered your pelvis

Good video. But isn't it better to have the screwgate at the master point be gate upwards rather than downwards?

@eyescreamcake

3 жыл бұрын

Doesn't matter, vibrations don't care about gravity.

Very good tutorial but just one point of improvement. You are putting a 'cows tail' in the yellow schling and this makes for an uneven amount of pressure on your anchor points. It is better to make the actual point of rapelling an sliding point that will distribute the forces evenly on the anchor points.

@daghtus

10 жыл бұрын

That is very true but each approach has certain disadvantages. The sliding central point is great for achieving even distribution of the forces onto both anchor points. However should one anchor fail, there is a significant shock load onto the other anchor point and onto the sling the climber is attached to which can potentially lead to a disaster.

@stevanoutdoor

10 жыл бұрын

daghtus True. But u can also make this central sliding point just using the ropes so no schlinges are involved. Your rope should be able to take the impact of a (small) shock load bcs any shock load whilst rapelling will be very small.

Haven't you guys learned to rappel yet?

I think it's easier, faster and cheaper to drill a few anchors into the rock.

@sambut87

5 жыл бұрын

and safer

@arnoldmeulen

5 жыл бұрын

sambut87 Yes, as long as you keep the angle below 120°

@richardparke4105

4 жыл бұрын

It would be blasphemous to say that in the UK.

@eyescreamcake

3 жыл бұрын

@@richardparke4105 Is that why there's ugly tat litter at the top of climbs in the UK? Wow, so much better.

@richardparke4105

3 жыл бұрын

@@eyescreamcake Possibly. I'm not trying to necessarily argue for the purist trad culture of the UK. I'm just stating that it exists.

You Tosser, I’ve got anxiety now

That's not a French prussik, it's an autoblock

@BrumCraft

9 жыл бұрын

It's as French as a brie baguette dude

@richardparke4105

4 жыл бұрын

You are aware that the same knot can (and does) have two different names. That IS a French prussik, it is ALSO an autoblock.

@eyescreamcake

3 жыл бұрын

Any friction hitch can be used as an autoblock. This particular friction hitch is called a French prussik, after Serge Machard