Jassen Hahn It definitely could be the bearing. If you enter your model number into the repair help section of our website (link in the description) you'll have access to model, part and symptom specific repair help. This will give you a few different things you can check to make sure your bearing is at fault.

WHAT YOU DON'T SEE, your unit may have a upper casing under the main tub agitator. If your chrome plated shaft is not perfectly smooth - sand or wire brush it prior to to even trying to remove that casing. IF you do not, you will have to pry tha casing off but even worse, your new bearing will not slide down.

Jassen Hahn (It appears you have replying to your comments disabled because KZread won't let us reply directly under your question. Check that in your settings.) It definitely could be the bearing. If you enter your model number into the repair help section of our website (link in the description) you'll have access to model, part and symptom specific repair help. This will give you a few different things you can check to make sure your bearing is at fault.

Are there any actual little ball bearings anywhere? My washer rocks loudly during rinse cycle. Replaced snubber ring which helped by 40% saw a couple very small steel bearings on the bottom. Not sure if that’s anything related?

my Frigidaire agitator is two piece design. after removing the cap and fill cup there's no nut or bolt to be removed. You have to tug and pull on it, and it just wont come off so you can remove the lower portion of the agitator. If someone knows, please let me know.

I have a Kenmore Model 417.99680210 Year 01-97. It's a great machine and the wife wants it repaired if possible and not replaced. About 10 seconds into the spin cycle it starts to scream like a banshee. Sounds just like a power steering belt on a car that needs fluid or tightening up. I pulled the front cover off, placed it in spin and the belt and pulleys doesn't seem to be the problem. All looks to be working normally and no burnt rubber smell. The sound comes from higher up seemingly like the Upper Spin Bearing. I've gotten as far as removing the trunnion bolts and bracket, cleaned off as much build up as humanly possible, sprayed WD 40 around and in every nook and cranny , waited over night then proceeded to try an loosen / remove the inner tub. Even with a hammer it doesn't seem to want to budge. Nothing else is holding the inner tub in right? Just need to try more penetrating oil and add patience or do you have a better suggestion. Excellent video by the way and I see the RC site has all the parts in stock that I need to rebuild this while she's stripped down. Just waiting to see if I can get it apart before ordering. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

@repairclinic

8 жыл бұрын

+Tommy Granados No, you're on the right track. The worn bearing is likely causing it to stick to the transmission shaft. These can be a bear, but the wd40 is a good call. You might want to use a block of wood with the hammer to jar it loose.

@tommygranados2599

8 жыл бұрын

+RepairClinic.com - Patience along with a lot of WD 40, a big hammer and more patience was the key as she broke loose and came apart just fine after sitting and soaking in WD 40 over the weekend. I removed and cleaned every piece possible once it was stripped down. Replaced the Tub bearing, Belt, Tension pulley, Tub seal, Snubber and agitator bolt. She's working good as new and no more screeching. There was a lot of build up from 17 years of use but it came off with a little elbow grease. After 2 days at it my wife said "Uncle" she'll take a new one as she couldn't stand to see any more of my blood on the floor. I think they make all washers with sharp sheet metal edges and corners on purpose though I was to far into it to give up. I wasn't going to quit. After following advice from others that posted here such as using sand paper to smooth out the shaft and other tips it went back together 10 times faster than it came apart though I do have 2 small screws left over from somewhere. I guess they come with spare parts also. Anyway, thanks for the advice, video and assistance forums.

@tommygranados2599

8 жыл бұрын

+Tommy Granados - Side note. My Washer / Dryer is a stack unit with the Dryer on top. I did not have to remove the Dryer to take the inner and outer tub out of the washer. I started to though it posed it's own set of challenges as I wasn't able to move the unit from it current position. I worked it as described above with out having to move it an inch.

my washer ,a frigidare makes nose during agitation , but none during spinning . Any suggestions on what may be wrong .Is there more than one bearing? top loader.

@repairclinic

8 жыл бұрын

+Kevin Poveromo This could be due to a bad eccentric spring at the bottom of the transmission of the washer which if so is means the transmission is shot.

Please help!! I have been trying to remove the inner tub from my 1997 Model # fws777gfs0 old Frigidaire washing machine and it looks like the one you are working on and I have removed the trunnion block mounting bolts. I have removed to the best possibility the old crud that was there and I'm unable to pull up the tub. I pull and tug to no avail and you make it look so easy. Should I remove the 5 screws that are there? Hoping you can help!

@repairclinic

10 жыл бұрын

The trunnion is just stuck to the transmission shaft. You can remove the 5 bolts to get the tub out but the trunnion will still be stuck on the shaft. You may be able to loosen it better with the tub off. You also can spray some penetration oil in it to help break it loose. Hope this helps.

@crystalfino5572

10 жыл бұрын

***** Thank you very much for your help..Yes I was able to remove the trunnion and the seal tubs, but now, I was halfway up the trans with the outer tub and it got completely stuck, it doesn't move up or down and I'm afraid to use too much force in fear of breaking it. I have added penetrating oil, banged, tugged, won't budge! Any ideas? What can I do?

I have a Frigidaire Top Load washer Model # FWS777S0. It fills good, agitates fine but when it switches into the Spin Cycle the drum doesn't turn. The motor at one point started to smoke so I turned it off. It appears from watching the video that the Upper Spin Bearing is a sleeve type. My question is, does the bearing only come into play during Spin or used for both Agitation and Spin? I replaced the Timer last year so I felt I could pretty much eliminate it as the cause. Also, the Lid Switch seems to be working because the lid locks when it switches to Spin. Any help is certainly appreciated.

@repairclinic

10 жыл бұрын

Alexander R The motor turns one way to agitate and the other to spin. You can manually turn the transmission pulley both ways to see if you get both actions. If the transmission binds when you turn it to spin you may have a bad bearing or something stuck in between the tubs. If everything turns ok you may just have a bad motor.

@AlexanderR1960

10 жыл бұрын

***** Thank you so much for that information. I attempted to turn the pulley both ways. It turns fine in one direction but binds in the other. I then attempted to turn the drum and watch the pulley at the same time. In one direction the pulley moves with the drum. In the other direction, the drum turns but the pulley doesn't. My original question was pertaining to the Upper Spin Bearing, if it is common for both spin and agitate. My thinking is, if it is common to both then both cycles will be affected but since the Agitate cycle works fine, then eliminating the bearing as the cause would make sense. Also, the same would apply if the motor was the culprit. I read elsewhere that on models starting in 1997 a One-Way Bearing replaced the LGS Spring on the transmission. With the One-Way bearing, the entire transmission turns in the Spin Cycle but does not turn at all for the Agitation Cycle. My original suspicion was a faulty transmission. However, due to the replacement cost of the transmission it would just pay for me to buy a new washer. At around $40 for the new Spin Bearing, it would be worth repairing. Any further feedback is appreciated.

@repairclinic

9 жыл бұрын

Alexander R In agitate the center shaft moves independently of the whole transmission. You can have a bad bearing and the agitator will still work. In Agitate the transmission will index or move slightly in one direction, this is normal operation. If you can spin the tub in one direction that is good the backup spring will keep it from turning the other direction. If the bearing was locked up or there was something stuck in the tub the tub would not turn or would turn hard in both directions. In the agitate direction the pulley will turn fairly easily and just the agitator will move back and forth without the inner tub moving. It is possible you may just have a bad motor and the transmission is working properly.

Might as well change seals while your there

Thanks!

I have the same washing machine and it stopped rinsing, what are the causes of this ?

@repairclinic

9 жыл бұрын

reydjbf jimenez Enter your model number in our website's repair help system: www.repairclinic.com/repairhelp?TLSID=1773.

why is there no lube inside the brass bushing?

@repairclinic

8 жыл бұрын

+t cply Dry bearing system, no grease required.

They left out all the parts where he is swearing. The shaft get rust spots on it that the bearing does not want to pass,so 30 minutes of smoothing the spots saves the day. Getting the bearing out of the tub is an epic battle worthy of the Lliad.

@repairclinic

9 жыл бұрын

MrRedOctopus Thank you for sharing.

Your videos are very helpful but I do not understand why you skipped steps in this video. You do not show the bolts being removed from the trunnion, or the trunnion being removed. This is very confusing to people who are following you step by step to do home repairs.

@repairclinic

8 жыл бұрын

+Brian Hightower We do it to save time. Our videos would be 25-30 minutes long if we didn't cut some repetitive steps.

@UncleTerry

3 жыл бұрын

@@repairclinic there's nothing wrong with a 25 to 30 minutes repair video showing all the proper steps

Yes this was helpful if you are working on a new washer. But who replaces an upper spin bearing in a brand new washer. Show me how to remove the upper spin bearing on one that is 8 years old. I find it ironic that you would use a brand new washer. And I agree with the one viewer who compared it to running an Iliad

This is a white consilated industries buit washer

I've been having a problem with my washer, Frigidaire Model #CWS3600AS1 as the washer goes into spin cycle there is a grinding noise. But its more of a fast grind, grind, grind slowing down as the tub slowly spins to a stop. Most of the videos I've watched on youtube have a constant spin/grind that I've found. Could it be that this part replaced could solve the problem? I've created a short video : kzread.info/dash/bejne/k2Vm1ch6ZJyWldY.html