Such an unbelievably beautiful country

@EpicTV

Жыл бұрын

indeed, a magical place

Awesome Frankenjura

I grew up on a farm in Pegnitz valley in the 80s / 90s, perhaps a 5 min drive from some of crags and never heard of anyone climbing in my childhood or youth ... perhaps you saw a few weirdos climbing on the rocks every now and then ... I came back last year and only now appreciate the awesomeness of what is possible here and the history

Simply one of the best areas in the world!

@lars9415

Жыл бұрын

No, thats not true: Sadly, it's quite outdated and oldfashioned, with questionable bolting, and questionable spirit, just because a handful of locals are stubborn oldschool. Climbing there for 20-years I know frankenjura quite well, there are so many better areas in the world!!!

Wow! This fingerboard looks simply amazing!

@jimicob9143

Жыл бұрын

you mean amazingly simple! 😀

Good job. Thank you 👍

@EpicTV

Жыл бұрын

thanks for watching!

Oh, man… inspiration…

@zoltanzoltan8317

Жыл бұрын

You are not welcome, the landowners hate climbers

Another great work from Johan Kervella 🤩

Frankenjura Is such a great place to climb. Thanks a lot for the very informative video and great topos 😍

@EpicTV

Жыл бұрын

❤

Frankyjura has always seemed such an amazing place with direct action too! Such history

danke liebe freunde für dieses Video !!! Epic 🤌

@EpicTV

Жыл бұрын

Thank you!

Great views. I would recommend warring helmets while climbing and and this way promote safe climbing.

..Always Markus Bock...i dont know whats about him inthe 90s he did some staff in fankenjura and the climbing magazine rotpunkt pushed him.. dont know him personally but i guess is not active anymore..in the last years he was pushing down younger climber alex megos..of course old and young generation do not understand each other...anyways wtf does it matter also this vid is just adverisement.anyways....Wolgang Güllich knew what he was doing and he never was pushing down anybody..thanks Wogü for your inspiration that you gave us in climbing..climbing action directe with that shoes...chapeau! Desperately you never had the chance to show them all how to climb a 12a

Which App are you using at 8:12 ? I have the Frankenjura App, but it doesn't look anything like that.

@leoingson

Жыл бұрын

See description, most probably 27 crags (or thecrag)

Good video about the Frankenjura, it does look fantastic but aren't you supposed to declare somewhere it's also an advert for BD?!

@EpicTV

Жыл бұрын

thanks!

If you’re using the 27 Crags maps then you’ll get lost 100% 😂

@27crags_app

Жыл бұрын

Hi Ben! Have you had some issues with the navigation? The GPS locations of crags should always be accurate in Premium topos, but due to the bad reception in some climbing sectors, the phone's GPS might not always work optimally. 🙏 But luckily downloading the topos offline always gives you the map, which will help to find the way even if the GPS signal is weak!

@MisterBleau

Жыл бұрын

Support around local climbing guides!👌🏼

@matthewlueder2656

Жыл бұрын

Vertical life isn't much better

👍👍

Wolfgang Guellich country 😢

It would be great to get a list of the routes in the video, some of them look like absolute diamonds and unknown to those new to the area. Thanks.

@zoltanzoltan8317

Жыл бұрын

Sonst no wo's? So ein geschwafel... Bleib da wost bist

@guyveegee

Жыл бұрын

@@zoltanzoltan8317 What is your problem? You are not going to go far in life with such negativity

@guyveegee

Жыл бұрын

Maybe you can help, what is the route at 4 min 22 seconds? Thanks.

@guyveegee

Жыл бұрын

@@zoltanzoltan8317 I agree with what you said, they deleted your comment but I was able to read it. The definitive guides are brilliant and also give access to app use.

The Frankenjura has been a hotspot for (strong) climbers - more than 30 years ago. The only development there was to bolt more hard routes. If you're a beginner, you need to be deathdefying! The "easy" routes are almost bolted weird. The bolting is "psychologically"and you have to take the risk to be hurt seriously. Or you have to be sure not to fall, you have to be strong enough. "If you're not strong enough, stay at the gym" And if you ask for a "physical" bolting (no risk to die), the answer is: "We don't want the same conditions as in the south of France". I met many foreign climbers searching for sportclimbing routes. They were afraid of the alpin style in Frankenjura. So if you come for climbing, you need a clipstick, nuts, friends and slings - and a deathdefying hero to take your rope uphill.

@kyransmith306

Жыл бұрын

I can't agree.. There are many modern bolted crags in Frankenjura. I recommend the guides from Sebastian Schwertner and the Frankenjura app. With a little research you will find everything you need in Frankenjura - that's why I love that place so much. Also never used nuts or friends there. Unfortunately some of the first bolts are little bit high, that's true. Still i've seen worse, for example the Eifel in western Germany - whole different story. Nothing wrong with using a clipstick then.

Frankenjura is always wet, often bad weather, crowded rocks and lots of mosquitos. Better not to come here! This is only a film made by the marketing of 27crags.

@Vacqueyras

Жыл бұрын

Not to forget the "intelligent" bolting, espec. in the easier routes, that there´s only ONE anchor at the top and that most of the routes are polished right now

@zoltanzoltan8317

Жыл бұрын

It's dangerouse, dont know why they recommended frankenjura for climbing. Bolting is very bad, not just like a modern climbing areas. Every month are accidents. Its not worth a visit or a holiday, there are much better areas all over the world.

@tillteufel9979

Жыл бұрын

@@zoltanzoltan8317 so better just don't come to franken anymore and leave the awesome routes for the rest of us who enjoy them, thank you ;)

@zoltanzoltan8317

Жыл бұрын

@@tillteufel9979 du siemgscheida depp. Wia bleed muss ma sei dass ma so a Gebiet wo Hinz und Kunz mittlerweile is, no im Internet bewirbt? Bist du echt so naiv?

@lars9415

Жыл бұрын

@@tillteufel9979 the outdated bolting in frankenjura definitely has nothing to do with modern sports climbing, some of the crags definitely are wet for a long time after rain, and there are definitely better sportclimbing destinations in the world: Zoltan is right. This video is crap, cause it glorifies a somehow lost place, where evolution into a sport climbing area is chopped by a handful of weird local hardliners, who fight against modern aspects of sports climbing to preserve "their" old scrappy crags, including bad sparsely bolting, need for nuts and friends in many routes, (this is called "traditional climbing", although this alpinist style of putting friends nuts and slings for protection has nothing to do with sportclimbing ) and the lack of proper , state of the arts chains at the end of most routes. zoltan, you are always welcome in frankenjura, you are right with your criticism. Never mind the bollocks.

good luck finding anything with that piece of garbage app

Fake - News promo video: Frankenjura is proudly oldschool...: Questionable, often worn out, oldschool protection, alpine pro is obligatory in many , especially lower graded routes (up to 7a), (cams, nuts, slings ), there are no chains on top of most routes. Anchors often are loose or set inappropriate (some by purpose, to increase difficulty for repeaters)... Nice mindset! So: Sportclimbing is elsewhere... This high gloss promo video is telling fairytales on a rather retarded aerea, where real progress nowadays is almost illegal, its sadly stuck in its own history.

@tillteufel9979

Жыл бұрын

pissed off gym climber speaking here xD xD xD

@lars9415

Жыл бұрын

@@tillteufel9979 Hey mister niceguy! You got no Arguments, got just rude bashing for others (eg. zoltan) with different opinions. This ugly mindset is classic for the "carrots for a..holes" fraction. Wish you to miss clipping the 2 bolt in" kunstflug", roter fels, maybe this will open your eyes. Have fun!

@tillteufel9979

Жыл бұрын

@@lars9415 I brought up many arguments as you can read in that post you re refering to. I am definitely not on his side (carrots for ***) but still am tired of those crybabies that want an outdoor gym. I don't know Kunstflug. But if it is a long but harmless fall when falling clipping the second draw I am ok with it. Thats outdoor climbing. In case it is dangerous falling there, I use clipstick, climb it with 2nd bolt preclipped or put a long quickdraw in it. It is that easy, cant you see it?

@lars9415

Жыл бұрын

@@tillteufel9979 Go e.g. to Roter Fels, Pegnitztal and try all the nice , but oldschool routes from Bachar, Albert, Löw and so on. Nice, long routes, but by purpose sparsely and questionable equipped: The top bolts on some of those routes are the shortest ones available, 40mm, and there is only one single poor bolt... This is bullshit to me. They once were equipped for the equippers, but not for a community... Now they are history and almost can't be changed for the history... I dont like to ( sometimes i do) use a clipstick as you do, but this is the only option to climb it safer. But e.g. continuing a climb from a ledge in Frankenjura means, you mostly have to climb the next five to seven meters to the first bolt after the ledge - not a modern sport climbing standard, as well as the already mentioned bolting issues. I don't carry a clipstick up to this ledge... And so there is the risk of a ground/ledge Fall, which is common in alpinism, but not in sportclimbing! This is why i say, frankenjura is not a sport climbing area: Many people don't know the difference between sport climbing and alpinism or trad climbing. Especially Franken proudly don't want to know the difference, cus this would mean they would have to change it, to come to state of the art Standard. Ask IG Klettern, Ask J. Kollert. I rockclimb for over twenty years. I have been over the world and so i know what the Standard at the time is. And frankenjura definitely does not meet this standard, it sadly is somehow a outdated area, cause no one dares to set a modern standard in Germany today, there. Because there are problems with authoritys, Hardcore "carrots for a..hole climbers", History, Environmentalists, changing or adapting to a modern standard is almost impossible. This is why this video is romantic bullshit in my eyes: It speaks of sportclimbing in Frankenjura - this simply isn't the case there. Climbing there means you have to mix in Alpine gear, to be okay with poorly set, often rotten (very high, first) anchors, to be fine and firm with slings, nuts, friends, to be okay with not existing doubled top anchors. This is anything else but Sportclimbing. Go to france, go to katalunya, go to greece, go to Turkey you will find so many so much better sport climbing areas anywhere, but not in Germany, cause we are stubborn, narrowminded, backwardminded, everything else than progressive. Got me?

@tillteufel9979

Жыл бұрын

@@lars9415 Yes there are quite a few wildly equipped routes in Franken. I know Roter Fels, I know Kunstflug only from looking at it. I never tried it, maybe I never will. I will maybe never try Frankenschnellweg at Rodenstein, maybe never lead Baum im Rücken and the other beautiful routes left of it at Kühlochfels and I will never climb Schön Wetter at Schöne Aussicht without the first bolt preclipped. But thats ok, because there are so many alternative routes that are better bolted I can do instead.