In 1975 I rebuilt my $900 63 roadster in my mom’s garage. I did the bodywork on the right front fender before I got the glass/trim ring from Jaguar. Of course I had to re-do it to make it fit. Lesson learned!

@JaguarEType

Жыл бұрын

Hi Ted, thanks for watching and your comment sorry for being too late with my video but hopefully we can help the others. 👍

excellent video. Believe it or not my car was sucking fumes into the cockpit through the spare wheel wheel drain.

@JaguarEType

Жыл бұрын

😄 🤣 believe it or not, I had someone saying that is normal. It was always like that. NO, it is not normal and it makes you sick. Funny stories. I am looking forward to read your comments on the engine I am currently rebuilding since month.

Maikel, The points you make on the bodywork and shut lines is so crucial to an E type as any uneven gaps stick out like a soar thumb. As a restorer that does everything but the paint I know only too well just how long it takes to get the shut lines spot on. Who is doing your bodywork & paint as finding a good bodyshop seems to be rare these days. Most body & paint shops only want to do crash repairs and wont touch classic car work. Cheers Dave

@JaguarEType

Жыл бұрын

Hi Dave, hope you are doing well, what about your XK? Usually I get my bodywork done at RJ racing panels in UK, but on this project it was so minor that I did id together with a friend, took longer and it should but hey, better get it done yourself properly and taking your time rather than paying someone to mess it up. "Have been there, seen it, didn't like it." I think you made the same experience with your XK 150. And have to say, the sound body was the only reason to buy this project. Paintjob will be done locally, that I can follow it any time. We have a couple of good paint shops who know my standards and I can trust. However, you can only relax when the shell is back and sound. Stay tuned, I had some surprises with the engine. Coming soon.

@ClassicCarCave

Жыл бұрын

Maikel, I'm am basically waiting for the interior to be finished up by John Skinner in the UK, They made my Type interior and I fitted it in the car and I have to say it fitted beautifully so I have used them again, I have a few jobs outstanding but the car starts and drives so I'm pretty happy so far. Cheers Dave

@carllewis7964

Жыл бұрын

as rare as hen's teeth Dave today

Excellent progress on your current project Maikel - good to see so much attention to gaps detail. I am currently still seeing absolute horrors of cars still being sold on many auction sites with abysmal gapping; although that is small beer compared to the misleading by omission which they routinely engage in - my restoration friend estimated the cost of correcting a fairly new restoration properly will be more than the buyer paid - requires taking back to metal, due to lack of preparation causing paint to bubble in a car completed only 2 years ago!! Be well and keep up your great work. Jon.

@JaguarEType

Жыл бұрын

Jon, thank you. I absolutely agree with you. I have seen many cars having been poorly restored and either left that way or a second major work had to be done. There are some good workshops out there who have specialised in E Type do know their job. But many, who seldom rebuild an E Type go wrong. But the bubble of course are a time factor and how thoroughly someone is working or is prepared to pay. It is still a long way to go here. Keep sharing 👍

Hello Maikel . Well ! Great minds think alike ! I too have a '66 2+2 . As you point out the gaps are so important and oh so difficult to accomplish ! My biggest challenge has been fitting the door/rear quarter light chrome work , what a nightmare ! I'm fitting / gapping the bonnet as we speak .......easier said than done ! I have preserved as much of the originality as l can , mainly because of the cost ! I still have the tailgate to restore and fit . I will have to be extra careful as l've already painted the shell !!! Absolutely love your commitment and dedication. The gaps on yours are perfect, So have you accomplished this yourself or had to find the artisans to make your dreams come true ?( A very expensive alternative !) Thankyou Maikel .

@JaguarEType

Жыл бұрын

Hello John, many thanks for following and hopefully I can add some help for you. I bought this project only because the body was sound. You remember when we found this car, it was almost ready for painting. The majority of the work was to remove the old body tin and make sure we get no corrosion underneath. I did my apprenticeship to become a car mechanic in the early 80's and have always worked on my own cars. It is the time that we are short of. Having a friend who is a retired coachbuilder does help. Be very very careful with your painted body. I had scratches on my other car and it hurts so much 😫 😭.

Hi. Thanks another great video keeping me on the straight and narrow as I restore my FHC. I am just about to trial fit the bonnet so it is good to see the pit falls. With regard to the chrome gutter trims. Do these snap into place or is an adhesive required. If so what would you recommend. Thanks. Hugh

@JaguarEType

Жыл бұрын

Hugh, yes, gutters snap in, but only if the filler, primer, paint and clear is not too thick, then it will not get over. There was a thin layer and that is the way they snap in. A - post pillar chromes are however glued.I am using some "Montagekleber". Hope your car will come along well.

Nice work base for a paint shop to make it perfect! BTW, what's the color of the blue FHC at back? Dark Blue or Indico?

@JaguarEType

Жыл бұрын

Hi Jukka, thanks for watching my video. I think the paintshop will be happy with such a car, and I hope it will not take too long to get it back. The FHC in the background is my 885289, original opalescent dark green, but faded out. It is all dull. But still an extraordinary car. I am loving it. :-)

@jukkaaunola5942

Жыл бұрын

@@JaguarEType interesting color and the reason to ask was as it looks bit blueish but now when you say it's obviously green :-)

Great stuff Maikel what gap size did you go for 4 or 5mm gaps all round ?

@JaguarEType

Жыл бұрын

Thanks Carl, I try to stay between 3,5 -4 mm but at the same time trying to have a real thin layer of primer, paint and clear coat. Just as they originally were. Sometimes I see paintwork of 0,5 mm and more and I think that is far too much and you can also see it round the edges and metal folds. If the painter is not careful, the layer becomes too thick and might touch. So a really thin and adequate paintwork does require slightly closer gaps. Otherwise you are probably right with 4-5 mm.

@carllewis7964

Жыл бұрын

@@JaguarEType Yes sadly most repo panels have very rounded edges a great body gives fewer excuses for a painter to do a bad job great stuff Maikel