I'm thinking you should be getting royalties from EP Integration. Just ordered one this morning. With the price of brass, I'll be annealing my brass on a regular basis and hopefully won't have to throw away brass with split necks. I enjoy your videos. You get right to the point and don't over explain things.

Awesome video!! 👊

For those that arent using an AMP annealer, or a machine on a timer, ive been told its overall temp on the brass that makes the biggest impact; the solution is tempilaq if using flame to anneal. Brush it onto your case neck and at the temp threshold, it will change colour. Apparently 900 Fahrenheit is optimal.

I don't think annealing has ever improved my group size (maybe I don't do it right), but it definitely extends the life of the brass.

Interesting. Very similar results. I have been considering annealing but haven't convinced myself it is worth it. Appreciate you taking time to provide illustration & information.

good video, thanks for sharing

25 degrees....yikes!!! I'm still envy the fact that you can shoot on your own property. Can't shoot an air rifle without someone calling SWAT in my zip code.

Good video keep them coming.

I've always believed an annealed case would provide the most consistent downrange results so this supports my theory. What would be interesting to know is the seating force required for annealed vs new. I don't remember you mentioning it but I'd be curious to know the annealing time/case. Erik Cortina did a nice test annealing cases for 10, 15, and 20 seconds, shoulder bump, and neck sized then seated the bullets. What I found interesting was the seating force remained essentially the same, 17-19 pounds, across the brass. Thanks for all the superb videos!

@RobsReloading

2 жыл бұрын

I use a similar method to Mr. Cortina. Usually dim the lights and set the time so the neck just starts to glow. The time was probably 6 or 7 seconds. It varies a little with torch placement, brass and flame temp.

@6.5creedmoorrips6creedmoor2

Жыл бұрын

Same here around 7 seconds works great

Odd, I was contemplating this very thing this AM... I just finished building my Stag AR 10, 6.5 Creedmor, BA Heavy 22" Barrel.. Have not Fired a Shot with it yet

I just use a propane torch and I use the lee lock stud trimmer without the trimmer in my drill but I've been looking into getting one of these annealing machines to save time because it does take a while to do when you have a lot of brass to go through... I would like a video by you on this annealing machine and what your process/thoughts are.

@RobsReloading

2 жыл бұрын

I cover my methods and using the EP annealer in this video linked here kzread.info/dash/bejne/iWh4t8N6l73QeMY.html

Maybe needed a once-fired and not-annealed group!

@RobsReloading

2 жыл бұрын

Maybe a future video will be 1x fired annealed vs 1x fired no annealing. Im guessing at 100yds, there may not be a relevant difference. If we repeated this test here not sure statically there would be a difference.

I really like your videos so don't take this as criticism. If you'd buy a little cheap IR thermometer you could go from warm to 100.3 degrees. Just a suggestion...

@RobsReloading

2 жыл бұрын

So I have one of the IR thermometers but for some reason on shiny metals like brass it clearly reads low. Idk if it is reflecting off the surface or not. I have thought about trying to use another type of thermometer to measure. I guess it really doesn't matter as if the brass is cool enough to handle at the base it likely is not being anealed at the case head.

@hartlandaerialsolutions2567

2 жыл бұрын

@@RobsReloading I have one that is an IR thermometer with a metal probe on the end. I use it for grilling but should also work for your purpose.

@themechanic5671

2 жыл бұрын

Just an FYI although a bit late. I am certified in thermal imaging for my career. The emissivity of polished brass is very low, so you will not get an accurate reading with an IR thermometer(it will always indicate low) tarnished brass will give slightly closer but still not accurate results. Same with trying to get an accurate reading off of any polished metal.