This reminds me of the time a friend of mine who was older but a novice builder and pilot built a old time high wing trainer and glassed the center with that 003 super fine glass that used to be advertised in RCM as being used on a award wining scale Mosquito . Well he was learning to fly and got into a turning dive coming at us and pulled a max G pull up and the wings folded he then hands me the transmitter (as if I could save it) I closed the throttle and collapsed the antenna and turned off the transmitter as it Lawn Darted into the Earth confirming Newtons Laws.

I watched this whole video expecting to see the finished product.

Deluxe materials has a really great water based product for glossing. It does a really nice job. Light and easy to sand

Seems like you would want maximum penetration into the wood because the glass is a reinforcement of the joint. By using such a light coat you are minimizing the penetration. In other words, the strength comes from a really solid connection between the glass and the wood. Shallow penetration assures only a surface bond. The epoxy is ideal because it penetrates before hardening.

I have worked with fiberglass base material for many years ,easy way to lay down fiber glass, spray with water it will lay flat.

Hello, love your videos. I am just getting back into RC airplanes after not flying for 30+ years. I am putting my supplies together to start scratch building. Do you a list of supplies and materials both for beginners and advanced builders? If so, can you share it? If not, perhaps it’s a subject for a new video.

Could you explain how your friend uses Polycrylic to harden up a cloth based covering ? Like PolyFill or Cecotite ?

The "15 minutes" referred to in 15 minute epoxy is the gel time, not the drying time. 15 minutes from when you start mixing to stop applying it because it's going off.

When you cut fiberglass, use masking tape on the cut line.. it will keep it from fraying. Also you don't want to glass over anything less than 3/32nd balsa wood. I use minwax poly when I glass

@Capgains7777

6 ай бұрын

I have a friend who has built a couple of planes for me and he uses the minwax poly on the entire plane. And it looks great. He has built and flown several with the minwax poly and you would never know that he didn’t use an epoxy or polyester resin. It forms a hard finish that can be detailed out.

@daves4589

Ай бұрын

You can also use spray adhesive to one side of the glass. Then cut it. Doesnt fray and there is no masking tape to pull off which could fray the glass. And, the light cost of spray adhesive helps you position the glass and smooth out before you apply whatever resin you use.

what plane is that?

geez, on second glance polymers areso complicated. What would be the difference between this and waterbased acryllic paint/resin?

15-minute pot life!

Can you use an oil base polyurethane on fibreglass to cover XPS foam ? Does it works? As the water base polycrylic ??

@Capgains7777

10 ай бұрын

I’m not sure which foam is XPS. You should test. There are so many chemicals that eat open cell styrofoams, but the foam they build foamies with can often be glued with CA superglue now.

@roadstar499

9 ай бұрын

​@@Capgains7777he must mean eps...i don't think oil base poly eats up any foam...i used it on epo many years ago...

Have you ever used polycrillic with sig koverall?

@Capgains7777

Жыл бұрын

Hi Richard. I have not used that combination. If you are talking about sticking it to an airframe with the poly, I've never thought about trying that. Usually you want something heat activated to stick to the frame like Sig Stik It or Balsarite. If you are talking about a clear coat on the top of the coverall, that would probably work. I've just never tried it. I don't know that poly can flow through the cloth as it is designed not to allow buterate through it.

Good thinking Dan, Parkinsons from glue pants etc ..Really not good

I suggest light weight filler and filler/primer to fill the weave. The extra epoxy or polycrylic to fill the weave is gonna add weight and no strength. The polyfill might be pretty light, and it might be worth experimenting with the microballoons to thicken. This works great on foam, too!

@Capgains7777

Жыл бұрын

I’d like to find a nice light filler. Micro balloons would probably work well. Maybe to fill the weave but then I want a nice shiny hard coat for priming. So maybe another coat of the resin. I have used one part Bondo putty and it works great but gets you stoned while applying. I’m spending more time these days searching for ways to build without harmful fumes. Filling the weave on these joint reinforcements isn’t critical. But when I cover a scale plane that is supposed to look like sheet metal it will be more challenging.

It is waterbased polycrillic. Water and balsa do not matcht. How to prevend the balsa to bubble?

@Capgains7777

Жыл бұрын

Hi Frans!!! Yes water saturating balsa will warp, swell and distort grain. In the video I emphasize using a very very light coat on the first pass and letting it dry. The dried urethane part of the mix will build a resistance to water in the next coat from penetrating the balsa. It actually worked really well.

can you show a better view of the product that you are using.

@Capgains7777

5 ай бұрын

Sorry Bob, it’s an old can of Minwax Polycrillic. Not the cheapest stuff in the world but one can goes a long way.

Dan, what happened to you? Is everything ok? Lost interest in posting videos?

@Capgains7777

Жыл бұрын

Hi Leonid, no I'm not dead yet... hahaha. The move into our new house and shop has taken longer than I thought it would, giving me less time to play with my planes. I have shot video of progress on the Rebel, and will be getting back to work on the Flying King as well. Moving sucks... But the new shop is pretty nice. it took a lot of work to get it set up and I'm still working on bringing the supplies from my storage unit into the storage in the shop. But things are moving forward.

Because it is wood, I would not use a water base Product.....

@Capgains7777

10 ай бұрын

It actually works very well on wood for fiberglassing. But not on floats I have been advised. It is not water resistant.

I wouldn't advocate this for a fibreglass wing join. Go with tried and true epoxy resin. Any extra coats are not adding strength, just weight.

What happened to this guy?

Why not use Zap epoxy finishing resin it’s actually made for this work, if you think it smells bad I think you need to find a new hobby like maybe knitting sweaters with aunt Mildred

@Capgains7777

Жыл бұрын

Aunt Mildred is no ninny. She is a force to be reckoned with.

@my_dear_friend_

Жыл бұрын

Right, the worse it smells, the better the hobby.